BS EN 12275 - 1998 ME Connectors SR & TM
BS EN 12275 - 1998 ME Connectors SR & TM
BS EN 12275 - 1998 ME Connectors SR & TM
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12275:1998
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Mountaineering equipment Ð |
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Connectors Ð Safety |
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requirements and test methods |
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The European Standard EN 12275:1998 has the status of a |
British Standard |
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ICS 97.220.40 |
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NO COPYING WITHOUT BSI PERMISSION EXCEPT AS PERMITTED BY COPYRIGHT LAW
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BS EN 12275:1998
National foreword
This British Standard is the English language version of EN 12275:1998.
The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted by Technical Committee
SW/136, Sports, playground and other recreational equipment, to Subcommittee
SW/136/5, Mountaineering equipment, which has the responsibility to:
Summary of pages
This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, the EN title page,
pages 2 to 12, an inside back cover and a back cover.
BSI 1998
ICS 97.220.40
Descriptors: sports equipment, mountaineering, connectors, definitions, safety, specifications, equipment specifications, mechanical
strength, tests, information, marking
English version
CEN
European Committee for Standardization
Comite EuropeÂen de Normalisation
EuropaÈisches Komitee fuÈr Normung
1998 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national
Members.
Ref. No. EN 12275:1998 E
Page 2
EN 12275:1998
Foreword Contents
This European Standard has been prepared by Page
Technical Committee CEN/TC 136, Sports, playground
Foreword 2
and other recreational equipment, the Secretariat of
which is held by DIN. 1 Scope 3
This European Standard shall be given the status of a 2 Normative references 3
national standard, either by publication of an identical 3 Definitions 3
text or by endorsement, at the latest by February 1999,
and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn 3.1 connector 3
at the latest by February 1999. 3.2 self-closing connector 3
The text is based on UIAA-Standard C (Union 3.3 basic connector (type B) 3
Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme), which has
3.4 HMS connector (type H) 3
been prepared with international participation.
This standard is one of a package of standards for 3.5 Klettersteig connector (type K) 3
mountaineering equipment, see annex B. 3.6 directional connector (type D) 3
This European Standard has been prepared under a 3.7 specific anchor connector (type A) 3
mandate given to CEN by the European Commission 3.8 screwed-closure connector
and the European Free Trade Association, and (Quicklink; type Q) 3
supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s).
3.9 oval connector (type X) 3
For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative
annex ZA, which is an integral part of this standard. 3.10 gate 3
Annexes A, B and ZA of this European Standard are for 3.11 self-closing gate 3
information only. 3.12 gate-locking device 3
According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, 3.13 gate-open latch 3
the national standards organizations of the following
countries are bound to implement this European 4 Safety requirements 5
Standard: Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic, Denmark, 4.1 Design 5
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Ireland,
4.2 Performance 6
Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal,
Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom. 5 Test methods 7
5.1 Apparatus 7
5.2 Preparation of test samples 7
5.3 Procedure 7
6 Information to be supplied 8
7 Marking 10
Annex A (informative) Effect of connector
shape on major axis gate-open strength 11
Annex B (informative) Standards on
mountaineering equipment 12
Annex ZA (informative) Clauses of this
European Standard addressing essential
requirements or other provisions of
EU Directives 12
BSI 1998
Page 3
EN 12275:1998
1 Scope 3.8
This standard specifies safety requirements and test screwed-closure connector (Quicklink; type Q)
methods for connectors for use in mountaineering connector which is closed by a screw-motion gate,
including climbing. which is a load bearing part of the connector when
fully screwed up, see Figure 6
2 Normative references 3.9
This European Standard incorporates, by dated or oval connector (type X)
undated reference, provisions from other publications.
self-closing connector designed for lower loads, which
These normative references are cited at the
is not designed to give full protection in the event of a
appropriate places in the text and the publications are
fall, see Figure 7
listed hereafter. For dated references, subsequent
amendments to or revisions of any of these 3.10
publications apply to this European Standard only gate
when incorporated in it by amendment or revision. For
undated references, the latest edition of the publication part of the connector which can be moved to open it.
referred to applies. The gate can move by pivoting about a hinge (hinged
gate), or by a sliding motion (sliding gate) or by a
EN 20139, Textiles Ð Standard atmospheres for
m
screw motion (screw-motion gate)
conditioning and testing.
(ISO 139:1973). 3.11
self-closing gate
.c o
3 Definitions
x w
gate which moves automatically to the closed position
zf
For the purposes of this standard, the following when released from any open position, or when
b
definitions apply. unlatched, if there is a gate-open latch
3.1
connector
ww . 3.12
w
gate-locking device
openable device, which enables a mountaineer to link mechanism which reduces the possibility of a closed
himself directly or indirectly to an anchor
网
gate being opened inadvertently. A gate-locking device
3.2 can operate automatically (to the locked position) or
self-closing connector
分 享
connector with a self-closing gate
be operated manually
3.13
准
3.3 gate-open latch
标
basic connector (type B) device which holds the gate in the fully-open position
self-closing connector with adequate strength for use and is actuated by a deliberate manual action
anywhere in a belay system, see Figure 1
3.4
HMS connector (type H)
self-closing connector Ð generally pear shaped Ð
intended to be used primarily for dynamic belaying, for
example using an ªItalian hitchº (HMS), see Figure 2
3.5
Klettersteig connector (type K)
self-closing connector intended to be used primarily for
linking a mountaineer to a Klettersteig anchor
(via ferrata) system, see Figure 3
3.6
directional connector (type D)
self-closing connector, or a combination of one or
more self-closing connectors and slings, designed to
ensure loading in a predetermined direction, see
Figure 1 Ð Example of
Figure 4
basic connector (type B)
3.7
specific anchor connector (type A)
self-closing connector designed only to be linked
directly to a specific type of anchor, see Figure 5
BSI 1998
Page 4
EN 12275:1998
Figure 2 Ð Example of
HMS connector (type H)
o m
x w .c
zf
Figure 4 Ð Example of
b
directional connector (type D)
ww .
w
享 网
准 分
标
Figure 3 Ð Example of a
Klettersteig connector (type K)
Figure 5 Ð Example of a
specific anchor connector (type A)
BSI 1998
Page 5
EN 12275:1998
m
closed and fully open positions.
connector (Quicklink; type Q)
.c o
4.1.9 Connectors of type K shall be able to
accommodate in region A in accordance with
w
Figure 9 a metal rod of 21 mm nominal diameter,
x
zf
without hindering the movement of the gate between
the closed and fully open positions.
. b
4.1.10 Connectors of type Q shall require at least four
ww
complete rotations of the screw-motion gate from the
w
fully screwed up position to disengagement of the
threads. There shall be a clearly visible indication if the
gate is not in the fully screwed up position, for
标 connector.
4.1.12 A gate-open latch shall be designed to latch the
gate open, only in its fully open position. The latch
shall unlatch the gate automatically, either by
Figure 7 Ð Example of an oval attachment of the connector to an anchor, or by
connector (type X) loading the connector.
4.1.13 A manual gate-locking device shall require a
deliberate manual action to lock the gate, and shall
4 Safety requirements require at least two different actions to open the gate.
4.1 Design 4.1.14 An automatic gate-locking device shall lock the
gate automatically when the gate shuts, and shall
4.1.1 All edges of a connector that can come into require at least two different actions to open the gate.
contact with the user's hands and/or combinable
components such as ropes, slings, accessory cords and
harnesses, shall be free from burrs.
4.1.2 Connectors of type X shall be roughly
symmetrical in outline about the longitudinal centre
line. They shall have a minimum radius of curvature
of 12 mm at the inner surface of the larger end.
BSI 1998
Page 6
EN 12275:1998
4.2 Performance
4.2.1 Static strength
4.2.1.1 Major axis with gate closed
When tested in accordance with 5.3.2.1.3, connectors,
in the major axis with the gate closed, shall withstand
the loads specified in Table 1 without breaking.
Permanent deformation which affects the operation of
the connector is acceptable.
4.2.1.2 Major axis with gate open
When tested in accordance with 5.3.2.1.3, connectors,
in the major axis with the gate open, shall withstand
the loads specified in Table 1 without breaking.
Permanent deformation which affects the operation of
the connector is acceptable.
NOTE In practice, if loaded with the gate open, connectors can
fail at a lower load than that obtained by the method of test
specified in 5.3.2.1.3. Further information on this is given
m
in annex A.
.c o
For connectors with automatic gate-locking devices,
and for screwed-closure connectors (type Q), there is
w
no requirement for this test.
x
zf
Dimensions in millimetres 4.2.1.3 Minor axis
b
When tested in accordance with 5.3.2.1.4, connectors,
.
1) Region A
in the minor axis with the gate closed, shall withstand
ww
Figure 8 Ð Region A for types B, the loads specified in Table 1 without breaking.
w
D, H and X
For connectors of types D and A, there is no
requirement for this test.
BSI 1998
Page 7
EN 12275:1998
B Basic connector 20 7a 7
H HMS connector 20 6a 7
K Klettersteig connector 25 Ð 7
A Specific anchor connector 20 7a Ð
D Directional connector, excluding anchor connectors 20 7a Ð
Q Screwed closure connector (Quicklink) 25 Ð 10
X Oval connector 18 5a 7
a No requirement if fitted with an automatic gate-locking device.
BSI 1998
Page 8
EN 12275:1998
BSI 1998
Page 9
EN 12275:1998
Dimensions in millimetres
Figure 10 Ð Test of the minor axis
BSI 1998
Page 10
EN 12275:1998
Dimensions in millimetres
Figure 11 Ð Testing of the gate
7 Marking
Connectors shall be marked clearly, indelibly and
durably with at least the following information:
a) the name or trademark of the manufacturer,
importer or supplier;
b) the connector type letter in accordance with
clause 3 surrounded by a circle, for type H, type K
and type X connectors;
c) the minimum strength values in kN to the nearest
whole number below the value guaranteed by the
manufacturer, for the following modes of loading
(where there is a test requirement):
Ð major axis gate-closed;
Ð major axis gate-open;
Ð minor axis.
The markings shall take the form in accordance with
Figure 12 together with the marking ªkNº either at the
beginning or at the end. The marked strength shall be
a whole number of kN.
BSI 1998
Page 11
EN 12275:1998
Shape which does not relocate the rope Shape which locates the rope in
the same position as the test pins
BSI 1998
Page 12
EN 12275:1998
Annex B (informative)
Standards on mountaineering equipment
Table B.1 Ð List of standards on mountaineering equipment
No. Document Title
1 EN 892 Mountaineering equipment Ð Dynamic mountaineering ropes Ð Safety requirements
and test methods
2 prEN 12275 Mountaineering equipment Ð Connectors Ð Safety requirements and test methods
3 prEN 13089 Mountaineering equipment Ð Ice-tools Ð Safety requirments and test methods
4 prEN 12277 Mountaineering equipment Ð Harnesses Ð Safety requirements and test methods
5 prEN 12492 Mountaineering equipment Ð Climbers safety helmets Ð Safety requirements and test
methods
6 EN 564 Mountaineering equipment Ð Accessory cord Ð Safety requirements and test methods
7 EN 565 Mountaineering equipment Ð Tape Ð Safety requirements and test methods
8 EN 566 Mountaineering equipment Ð Slings Ð Safety requirements and test methods
9 prEN 12276 Mountaineering equipment Ð Frictional anchors Ð Safety requirements and test
methods
10 prEN 12270 Mountaineering equipment Ð Chocks Ð Safety requirements and test methods
11 EN 567 Mountaineering equipment Ð Rope clamps Ð Safety requirements and test methods
12 EN 958 Mountaineering equipment Ð Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig
(via ferrata) climbing Ð Safety requirements and test methods
13 EN 959 Mountaineering equipment Ð Rock anchors Ð Safety requirements and test methods
14 EN 568 Mountaineering equipment Ð Ice anchors Ð Safety requirements and test methods
15 EN 569 Mountaineering equipment Ð Pitons Ð Safety requirements and test methods
16 prEN 893 Mountaineering equipment Ð Crampons Ð Safety requirements and test methods
17 a Mountaineering equipment Ð Descenders Ð Safety requirements and test methods
(00136079)
18 prEN 12278 Mountaineering equipment Ð Pulleys Ð Safety requirements and test methods
a In preparation.
Annex ZA (informative)
Clauses of this European Standard addressing essential requirements or other
provisions of EU Directives
This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the
European Free Trade Association and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.
WARNING: Other requirements and other EU Directives may be applicable to the product(s) falling within the
scope of this standard.
The following clauses of this standard are likely to support requirements of Directive 89/686/EEC:
EU Directive 89/686/EEC, Annex II Clause/subclause of this standard
1.1 Design principles 4.1, 5.3.1
1.2 Innocuousness 4.1.1, 5.3.1, 4.2.2, 5.3.2.2
1.3.2 Lightness and strength 4.2.1, 5.3.2.1
1.4 Information supplied by the manufacturer 6, 7
3.1.2.2 Prevention of falls from a height 4, 5, 6
Compliance with the clauses of this standard provides one means of conforming with the specific essential
requirements of the Directive concerned and associated EFTA regulations.
BSI 1998
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