Shyamoli Textile Engineering College

(Affiliated By University Of Dhaka)

Faculty of Engineering
Department of Textile Engineering

REPORT ON
Industrial Attachment
At

Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd ( Rupashi Group)

Ramarbag, Kutubpur, Fatullah, Narayangonj.

Course Title: Industrial Attachment

Course Code: TE-410

Submitted By
SK. Asgar Hossain
Reg- 4580, Roll- 701

Academic Supervisor
Maitry Bhattacharjee
Lecturer

This report submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the

degree of Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering.
Advance in Wet Processing

Duration: From 1st January, 2017 to 21st March, 2017.

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Shyamoli Textile Engineering College (Affiliated by University of Dhaka )
 DECLARATION

I hereby declare that, this project has been done by us under the supervision of
Maitry Bhattacharjee, Lecture, Department of TE, Shyamoli Textile
Engineering College. I also declared that neither this project nor any part of this
project has been submitted elsewhere for award of any degree or diploma.

Supervised By:

Maitry Bhattacharjee
Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering
Shyamoli Textile Engineering College

Submitted By:

SK. Asgar Hossain

Reg- 4580 , Roll- 701
Department of Textile Engineering
Shyamoli Textile Engineering College

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Shyamoli Textile Engineering College (Affiliated by University of Dhaka )
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
First of all we express our gratitude to supreme Allah for Blessings, approval, protection,
mental power and wisdom in all aspects of your life. The applauses to Allah to
complete this internship report. During my industrial attachment, many individuals have
unselfishly contributed their time support to make this report to possible. I would like to
extend my sincere gratitude to those who have provided guidance in every step along the
way. I am deeply indebted to my principle Prof .Dr. Engr. Md. Mufazzal and supervising
teacher Maitry Bhattacharjee, Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, Shyamoli
Textile Engineering College. His help, suggestions and encouragement helped me in all the
time writing of this report. His scientific curiosity, encouragement and guidance throw
out this work have been necessary for this report. It is a great pleasure expressing of our
profound gratefulness and sincere gratitude to our respected course co-ordinator Mr.Majnu,
for his inspiration, prudent advice, affectionate guidance. I would like to give a special
thanks to all of my teachers of the Shyamoli Textile Engineering College.

I would like to thank the management of Rupashi Group for giving me the opportunity to
do the industrial training successfully and also their valuable suggestions. My deepest
appreciation goes to Chairman and Managing director Mohammad Soharwardi (Rupashi
group), Executive director Md . Saiful islam (Rupashi group), A.T.M Waliur Rahman
,General manager (dyeing, printing & washing) Rupashi group, Md.Tofazzal Hossain
Mollah (Manager admin) and Managers of all division of Rupashi group for their guidance
to conduct our industrial training without which it would be incomplete.

Our special thanks to Mr. Sujon Kumar Mondol (washing) SR. Manager , Obaidur
Rahman,(Washing) PM, Sujit Banik Asst. Manager (Merchandising division) and Rajib
Ahmed Chowdhury (Merchandiser) for their important cooperation with us.

We would also like to thank Manager, Asst. Manager, Production Manager,

Production Officer, Senior Executive, Executives and other personnel’s of all sections/
Department of Rupashi Group for helping us to complete industrial training successfully.

Finally I will show my gratitude to all the Management & Non-Management Staffs who have
helped me during the internship period and the entire persons who somehow have impact on
me in completing my whole report.

Our gratitude also goes to all of the employees of Rupashi Group for their sincere
cooperation, support and valuable advises.

We are forever indebted to the love and caring of our family. Gratefulness for our
family’s support, encouragement and understanding cannot be expressed in words.

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Shyamoli Textile Engineering College (Affiliated by University of Dhaka )
 DEDICATED

TO

MY BELOVED PARENTS
_________________________________________________________________________

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Shyamoli Textile Engineering College (Affiliated by University of Dhaka )
 ABSTACT
This project is on “Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd ( Rupashi Group )”.This
project is based on all of the section in this garment industry mainly the
Garments section. This section is comparable with the heart of garment
industry. Without this section one cannot think anything. Like if someone
cannot get any order, and then it is impossible to think about so other things
such as production, delivery, shipment and so other. Bangladesh is a developing
country. The development and progress largely depends on export performance.
In case of Bangladesh among the export sectors, the readymade garments
(RMG) are the main earning source of foreign currency. The aim of this project
to know about the environment of workplace and practical knowledge .To
developed this project we tried to content all department of the industry.

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 TABLE OF CONTENTS
Serial Content Page NO.

No.

Chapter-1 Executive Summary

1.1 Introduction 11

Chapter-2 Information about The Factory

2 INTRODUCTION OF THE ORGANIZATION 13

2.1 2.1.INTRODUCTION: 15

2.2 LOCATION MAP: RUPASHI KNIT WEARS LTD. 16

2.3 Company Profile 17

2.4 Clients of Rupashi Knit Wear Limited (Rupashi Group) 17

2.5 Some Certificate of Rupashi Knit Wears Limited (Rupashi 21

Group).

2.6 FACTORY LAYOUT 22

Chapter-3 Details of Attachment

3.1 3.1 Knitting section 24

3.1.1 Introduction 24

3.1.2 Organogram of Knitting Section: 24

3.1.3 Details about All Brand of knitting M/C: 25

3.1.4 Process flow chart of Knitting 28

3.1.5 Important Parts of Circular Knitting Machine 29

3.1.6 Fabric Produced by Knitting 29

3.1.7 Production Parameters

3.1.8 Production Calculation 30

3.1.9 Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics: 31

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3.1.10 Design Development by using CAM: 32

3.1.11 Faults of Knitting: 34

3.2 Gray & Batch Section

3.2.1 Organogram of Batch Section: 38

3.2.2 Objective of Batching 38

3.2.3 Batch process flow chart 38

3.2.4 Batch Management 40

3.3 Lab Section

3.3.1 Organogram of Laboratory 41

(physical+chemical):

3.3.2 Lab dip 41

3.3.3 The Responsibilities of the Laboratory Section 41

3.3.4 Laboratory M/C 42

3.3.5 Lab dyeing process follows up 45

3.3.6 Properties test 45

3.4 Dyeing Section

3.4.1 ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING SECTION: 48

3.4.2 Dyeing Machine with all Specification 49

3.4.3 Different Chemicals used by Rupashi with Function 58

3.4.4 Different Dyes used by Rupashi: 60

3.4.5 Dyeing Sequence Operated in Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd. 62

3.4.6 Recipe for Dyeing of Different Types of Fabric in Rupashi: 72

3.4.7 P.H Levels for Different Stages of Dyeing 76

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3.4.8 Standard Operational Procedure of Dyeing Machine 77

3.4.9 Operational Safety of Dyeing Machine 77

3.4.10 Stripping 78

3.5 Finishing Section

3.5.1 Textile Finishing 78

3.5.2 TOTAL MACHINE IN FINISHING SECTION 79

3.5.3 Flow Chart of Textile Finishing (Open Fabric) 80

3.5.4 Flow Chart of Textile Finishing (Tube Fabric) 81

3.5.5 Different Finishing m/c with all specification 81

3.5.6 Different Finishing m/c Used in Rupashi Knitting and Dyeing 84

Mill Ltd.

3.6 Printing Section

3.6.1 Basic Printing Flow Chart 89

3.6.2 Printing Process Sequence 90

3.7 Garments Section

3.7.1 Description of Garments section 92

3.7.2 Machine in garments section 93

3.7.3 Sewing Layout 94

3.7.4 Production Sequences & Operations 95

3.8 WASHING

3.8.1 OBJECTIVE OF GARMENTS WASHING: 95

3.8.1.1 Number of machines in Washing section 95

3.8.1.2 LIST OF CHEMICALS: 95

3.8.2 TYPES OF WET PROCESS IN WASHING: 97

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 3.8.3 Different types of Washing Procedure: 97

3.8.3.1 Flow Chart of Burn Washing on T-shirt 98

3.8.3.2 Process Flowchart of Tie Wash 99

3.8.3.3 Washing process of pigment wash : 100

3..8.4 Machines Used in Washing Section 102

3.9 Quality Control & Assurance

3.9.1 Introduction 103

3.9.2 Finished Fabric Inspection 103

3.9.3 Faults in Finished Fabric in Different Stages 104

3.10 Merchandising

3.10.1 Responsibility of Merchandiser: 106

3.10.2 Process Flow in Merchandising 108

3.10.3 Role of Merchandiser: 109

3.10.4 Confirmed Order 110

3.10.5 TECH-PACK 111

3.10.6 Costing 111

3.11 Utility Services

3.11.1 Water Treatment Plant (WTP) 113

3.11.2 Electricity 115

3.11.3 Steam 117

3.11.4 Compressed Air 118

Chapter-4 Impact of internship 119

Chapter-5 Conclusions 122

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 Chapter -1

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1.1 Introduction

Textile and garments sector is the biggest and fastest growing sector in Bangladesh. It is also the
highest foreign currency earning sector in Bangladesh. Among this sector, knit dyeing is growing
very rapidly due to smaller investment requirement, greater backward linkage facility & higher
profit than woven garments. That’s why export of knit dyeing garments has increasing steadily
for last few years.

Textile education can’t be completed without industrial Training. This industrial training
minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make me accmetomed to
industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete two month long industrial training in
(Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd( Rupashi Group) which is a 100% export oriented composite Knit
Dyeing Industry. It has all planned & equipped fabric and Knit dyeing-finishing units in addition
to facilitate Knit and knitting manufacturing.

The industrial internship is the process, which builds understanding, skills and attitude
of the performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and services.
It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work study,
efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery and their
operation techniques etc. The above mentioned can not be achieved successfully by means of
theoretical knowledge only. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accmetomed with the
industrial atmosphere and improve courage and inspiration to take self responsibility.

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 Chapter- 2

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2. INTRODUCTION OF THE ORGANIZATION

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2.1.INTRODUCTION:

Rupashi group is truly integrated undertaking. The RUPASHI GROUP has the capability to
after a complete product rang for the export textile markets. The goal of RUPASHI GROUP is to
become the preferred partner for scouring high quality fabric and clothing from Bangladesh with
highly advance technology and an emphasis on developing local human resources. RUPASHI
GROUP has the potential to make an important contribution to the nation s growing readymade
garments export sector. The rationale behind the existing structure and future expansion of
RUPASHI GROUP is to capture value added at each stage of textile manufacturing process.
Deposits Bangladesh’s lack of indigenous cotton production capability, RUPASHI GROUP has
leveraged Bangladesh’s labor cost advantage and export competitiveness to the maximum .The
industrial attachment is the process, which builds understanding, skills and attitude of the
performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and services. University
education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment ,in despite
of all these industrial attachment help us to be familiars with technical support of modern
machinery ,skills about various processing stage .It also provides us efficient practical
knowledge about production management ,work study ,efficiency ,industrial management,
purchasing ,utility ,and maintenance of machinery and their operation techniques etc. the
above mention cannot be achieved successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This
is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on. Industrial
attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with industrial atmosphere and improve courage
and inspiration to take self responsibility with RUPASHI GROUP. Textile. Education can’t be
completed without industrial training. Because this industrial training minimizes the gap between
theoretical and practical knowledge and make us accustomed to industrial environment. I got an
opportunity to complete two-months long industrial training at Rupashi Knit wears Ltd
(Rupashi Group) , which is a export-oriented composite Knit Dyeing Industry. It has well
planned & equipped fabric dyeing-finishing and garments units in addition to facilitate knitting
and knitwear manufacturing.

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2.2. LOCATION MAP: RUPASHI KNIT WEARS LTD.

Shyamoli Textile Engineering College to Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd.

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2.3 Company Profile

1. Name of the Company Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd( Rupashi Group)

2. Nature of the Company Private Limited Company

3. Nature of the Project 100% Export Oriented Company

4. Type of Manufacture 100% Knit Composite Factory

5. Production Information 100% Knit Garments Manufactures

6.Export Market
North America
South America
Western Europe
Eastern Europe ,Eastern Asia
Southeast Asia
Mid East
Africa
Oceania

7. Production Lead Time 90 Days

8. Sister Concern  Bea-con Knit Wear LTD.

 Mercer Design LTD.
 AAA Textile Mills.

9. Banking Policy Sonali Bank Limited

10. Year of Establishment 1993

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11. Annual Turnover $ 200 Million

12. Factory (Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd( Rupashi Group)

13. City Office 10/3,Toyenbee Circular Road, Motijheel C/A

Dhaka-1000 Bangladesh
Phone:88 02 9565884,88 02 9568698
Fax: 88 02 9551516
Email [email protected]
14. Managing Director Ranabir Saha

15. Raw Material Storage Rupashi Knit Wear Limited(Rupashi Group)

Storage facility is safe, systematic, and fully compliant
with the local laws. The factory follows 4-point fabric
inspection system to ensure fabric quality. Apart from
this, other standard measures for quality assurance like
shade continuity, 100% garment parts inspection &
numbering are strictly followed.

16. Products Fashion T-shirts, Polo shirts, Tank Top, Sweat Shirt,
Long Pant, Ladies Any Kind of Lycra
Tops/Dress/Pajamas, Knitted shorts, Leggings
Nightwear and School wear etc.

17. Product Mix: Knit Single Jersey, Lycra Single Jersey, Polo Pique, Back
Pique, ,Stripe,Waffle,Crape,1 1 Rib,2 2 Rib, Lycra
Rib, Plain Interlock, Fleece, Fleece Terry,100%
Polyester ,Chief Valued Cotton (CVC),Polyester-
Cotton Blend
Grey Melange
(15% Viscose, 85% Cotton)
(10% Viscose, 90% Cotton)
(30% Viscose, 70% Cotton)

18. Amount of Machinery a) Knitting

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  Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine = 54
 Double Circular Knitting Machine = 33
 Auto Stripe = 2
 Twill Tape M/C= 15
 Dosting M/C= 10
 Flat Bed Knitting Machine = 6
 Grey Inspection Machine = 5

b) Dyeing
 Sample Dyeing Machine = 36
 Production Dyeing Machine = 27
c) Laboratory
 Laboratory Dyeing Machine = 4
 Sample Dryer = 4
 Data Color System = 1
 Light Box Cabinet = 1
 Washing Machine = 5
 Tumble Dryer = 2
 Hot Air Oven = 3
 Crock Meter = 2
 Perspirometer = 1
 Others: P.H meter, Shaker, G.S.M Cutter
d) Finishing
 Stenter Machine = 4
 Dewatering Machine = 2
 Slitting Machine = 4
 Compactor Machine = 5
 Dryer =4
 Soft calendar = 3
 Fabric Inspection = 6

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 e) Printing
 Printing Machine = 2
 Curing Machine = 2
 Heat Pressing Machine

19. Production Capacity

Knitting: 30tons/day
Dyeing:30 tons/day
Garments: 1,00000pcs/day

20. Departments  R&D Section

 Knitting Section
 Dyeing Section
 Garments Section
 Planning Section
 Maintenance Section
 Store Section
 Administrative Section
 Security Section
 Marketing Section

21. Total Manpower 6500-7000

2.4 Some Clients of Rupashi Knit Wear Limited (Rupashi Group)

Buyer Logo
MIAMI

FOREVER21

SOGO

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2.5 Some Certificate of Rupashi Knit Wears Limited (Rupashi
Group).

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2.6.FACTORY LAYOUT

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 Chapter- 3

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 3.1 Knitting section
3.1.1 Introduction
The fabric which is produced from the interlooping of one or more yarns is called Knit fabric and
the process is called Knitting. There are two types of knitting machine in Rupashi Knit Wears
Limited( Rupashi Group) they are; Circular knitting m/c and Flat bed knitting m/c. The no. of
circular knitting m/c is 170 and no. of flat bed knitting m/c is 6. All the knitting m/c’s are active
and working with good performance. Among the 170 circular knitting m/c’s they are from 4
different company as PAILUNG SANTONI, Mayer and Cie, LISKY and among 6 flat bed
knitting m/c’s they are from different company like Protti Fashiontronix, Kauo heng, JY-LEH
etc.

The dia and gauge of different circular knitting m/c are different like 20”/24G, 21”/24G,
22”/24G, 23”/24G, 24”/24G, 25”/24G, 26”/24G, 28”/24G, 30”/18G, 30”/24, 30”/32G, 32”/24G,
34”/24G, 36”/18, 36”/24G, 36”/18G, 36”/28G

3.1.2 Organogram of Knitting Section:

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3.1.3. Details about All Brand of knitting M/C:

Brand-1
Brand Name : LISKY Taiwan
Type : S/J and Double jersey
Model : PL-XS3B/A/CE
Cylinder dia : 18-42 inch
Gauge:18-24 G
No of Feeders : 54-114 F
No of needles : 1356 and more
Net wt. in kg : 1550 kg and more
Safety RPM : 50
M/c No : A1300828
Date : 2013.08
Power supply:
Phase: 3 Volt: 415 Fig: Circular Knitting M/C (LISKY)
HZ: 50 Amp: 12
Overload cap: 13AMP
Manufactured by LISKY Taiwan MACHINERY MILLS CO,.LTD
Made in TAIWAN

Brand-2
Brand Name : HAANTEX Taiwan
Model : ATLAS HS OPEN 220
S/l no : Aoooo21/20
No of Feeders : 94/100 F
Cylinder dia : 32 and 34

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Gauge : 28,24G
No of needles : 2808/2520
Net wt. in kg : 2700/3100
M/c No : A1300828
Date : 2011
Power supply:
Power:5.5kw/7.5 Volt:415
HZ:50 Amp:12
Made in China Fig: Circular Knitting M/C(HAANTEX)

Brand-3
Brand Name: Mayer and Cie
Model: Ralanit 1.6R/3.2II
S/l no: 67000/1
Cylinder dia: 30-34
Gauge: 24, 32 G
No of needles: 2268 and more
Manufactured year: 2012
Made in Germany

Brand-4
Brand Name: LISKY
Model: LFS
S/l no: BD 1022/08
Cylinder dia: 38, 36, 40
Gauge : 20G
No of needles : 2386
Net wt. in kg : 2200
Date : July 2012
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Flat bed knitting m/c specifications:
Brand Name Kauo Heng

Model JL-303

Number of Needle 1200

Machine Gauge 14

Country of Origin Taiwan

Production Capacity 400 pcs collar

Power 220v

Fig: Flat Bed Knitting Machine

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Fabric Inspection M/C
Brand Name : Pro-knit
Qty. : 5 pc
Model : 11 N /NS
S/l no : 0575
Date : 03-2013
MGF. By Pro knit Engineering Ltd.
Made in Bangladesh Fig: Fabric Inspection M/c

3.1.4 Process flow chart of Knitting

Sample
Fabric
Design analysis

Machine selection

Setting the machine for the specific design

Yarn in cone form

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape

Positive feeding arrangement and tension devices

Knitting

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting

Inspection

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3.1.5 Important Parts of Circular Knitting Machine
 START/STOP/INCH BUTTONS
 RATCHET LEVER
 AUTO STOP MOTION
 FREE STANDING SIDE CREEL
 AUTO–COUNTER
 VARIABLE SPEED DRIVE WITH M/C BRAKE
 FABRIC TAKE UP SYSTEM
 SAFETY GUARD SWITCH
 AUTO LUBRICATION
 AUTO-LINE REMOVAL SYSTEMS

3.1.6 Fabric Produced by Knitting

Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd produced different types of knit fabric. They are given bellow:

 Single jersey.
 Rib.
 Interlock.
 Terry.
 Fleece.
 Pk.
 Lacoste.
 Auto Stripe.

 Product mix of Rupashi Knitting

The RUPASHI knitting follows the product mix:

100% Cotton

100% Viscose

Grey Mélange

CVC (60%Cotton+ 40% polyester, 80% Cotton+20% polyester)

Polyester

Lycra

60/40 Cotton /Modal

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 3.1.7 Production Parameters
During production of fabric in circular knitting machine following parameters must be maintain.
 Machine Diameter;
 Machine RPM (Revolution Per Minute);
 Number of feeds or feeders in use;
 Machine Gauge;
 Count of yarn;
 Required time (Machine running time);
 Machine running efficiency.

3.1.8 Production Calculation

1. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:
RPM  No. of Feeder  No. of Needle  SL(mm)  60  8

10 × 2.54 × 36 × 840 × 2.2046  Yarn count

No. of Needle = DG (for S/J) = DG 2 (for Rib) = DG (for Interlock)

Generally, Machine R.P.M =

2. Production/8 hours shift in meter:

Course / min .

Course / cm [Course/min = RPM No of
RPM  No. of Feeder  60  8  Efficiency

Course / cm  100
Feeders]

Total no. of wales


3. Fabric width in meter: Wales / cm  100
Total no. of Needles used in knitting

Wales / cm  100

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 4. G.S.M Calculation:

 For yarn count in Ne

 For yarn count in Tex

5. Length Calculation:

6. Efficiency = 100%

3.1.9 Considerable points to produce knitted fabrics:

When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality.
Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows-
Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
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 Order quantity
Finished G.S.M.
Yarn count
Types of yarn (combed or carded)
Diameter of the fabric.
Stitch length
Number of machine to be used
Source of yarn

During knitting some points need to be controlled very carefully such as stich length, Fabric
GSM, Fabric dia.

Fabric GSM control process:

Fabric GSM can be changed by VDQ pulley

Minor control can be done by stitch length adjustment
Altering the position the tension pulley changes the GSM of the fabric. If pulley moves
towards the positive direction then the GSM is decreased and the reverse direction GSM will
increase.

Some technique that may increase production of knit fabric:

Fabric production will be high by increasing machine R.P.M . But make sure that the tension
should not be excess.
Fabric production will be high by increasing the number of feeder.
The more the machine gauge, the more the production.
For smooth operation automatic machine lubrication system can be applied.

3.1.10 Design Development by using CAM:

The type of fabric to produce depends on the setting of the Cam of Knitting machine. The
different types of fabric can be produced by only changing the cam setting. The cam settings to
produce different fabric are given below:

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Single jersey:
Only knit cams are used to produce single jersey fabric. So the setting would be-

K K

K K

K K

Interlock Cam Arrangement Lacost Cam Arrangement

K M K K K T K K

M K M T K K K T

French Terry Fleece cam arrangement

K M K M K M K K T K K M

K T K M K T K K M K K M

K M K T K M K K M K K T

Pique Cam Arrangement Double Lacoste Cam arrangement

K K T T K K K T T K

T T K K T T K K K K

K K T T K K K T T K

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 3.1.11 Faults of Knitting:

1. Hole Mark
Causes:
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
 If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
 Badly knot or splicing.
 Yarn feeder badly set.

Remedies:
 Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
 Use proper count of yarn.
 Correctly set of yarn feeder.
 Knot should be given properly.

2. Needle Mark
Causes:
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
 If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.

3. Sinker Mark
Causes:
 When sinker corrode due to abrasion then some times can not hold a new loop as a
result sinker mark comes.
 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
 Sinker should be changed.

4. Star
Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles.
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 5. Drop Stitches
Causes:
 Defective needle.
 If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle
hook.
 Take-down mechanism too loose.
 Insufficient yarn tension.
 Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight & well.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
 Yarn tension should be properly.

6. Oil stain
Causes:
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.
Remedies:
 Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
 Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

7. Rust stain
Causes:
 If any rust on the machine parts.
Remedies:
 If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
 Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.

8. Pin hole
Causes:
 Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
 Change the needle

9. Grease stain
Causes:
 Improper greasing

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 Excess greasing
Remedies:
 Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance

10. Cloth fall- out

Causes:
 Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an
empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the
hook of the following needles.
Remedies:
 Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.

11. Barre:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise) Stripe.
Causes:
 This fault comes from yarn fault.
 If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
 Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
 During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn &
these fibers have similar characteristics.
 In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
 We can use this fabric in white color.

12. Fly dust:

Causes:
 In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to
low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface
tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
 Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
 By cleaning the floor continuously.
 By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
 Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.

13. Yarn contamination

Causes:
 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
 If lot, count mixing occurs.
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 Remedies:
 By avoiding lot, count mixing.
 Fault less spinning.

Yarn Faults:
 Neps.
 Slubs.
 Yarn count variations.
 Thick/Thin place in yarn.
 Hairiness

Flat Knitting Machines Fault:

1. Holes:
Causes:
 Needle Break,
 High Tension on Tensioner,
 Excess cotton with yarn on needle.
2. Missing Needle:
Causes:
 Faulty Needle,
 Faulty Cam setting.
3. Oil mark:
Causes:
 Improper Oiling on Machine.
 Inexperienced Operator
4. Loop Miss:
Causes:
 Tension on take up roller,
 Needle miss.
Yarn contamination
Causes:
If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
By avoiding lot, count mixing.
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 Fault less spinning.
Yarn Faults:
 Neps.
 Slubs.
 Yarn count.
 Thick/Thin place in yarn.

3.2 Gray & Batch Section

3.2.1 Organogram of Batch Section:

Manager

In-Charge

Asst. In-Charge

Supervisor

Asst.Supervisor

Batch man

Helper

3.2.2 Objective of Batching

Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a
particular lot of a particular order.
 To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
 Turn the grey fabric if require.
 To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria –
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  Order sheet (Received from buyer)
 Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
 M/C capacity
 Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PET, PC, CVC)

3.2.3 Batch process

Flow process chart of Batching Section of Metro Knitting and dyeing Mills Ltd.

Fabric Received
↓
Inspection
↓
Fabric Divided according to Diameter
↓
Supervisor batches the fabric according to quantity by Calculation
↓
Sent for Dyeing

Batch Calculation:
= Batch Quantity (M/C Quantity) / Total Quantity X Diameter quantity
Equation for Rope Length
=Diameter Quantity (Weight of Fabric in a roll) X 39.37 X1000 / Finished GSM / Finished
open
Diameter

Grey Fabric Inspection

The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of Quality Control
in the grey or finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two primary
considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects.

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The grading has two primary functions: First, to classify the fabrics according to standard
qualities based on the end-use and costumer demands and second, to supply information as to the
qualities actually being produced.

3.2.4 Batch Management

Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration.
Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time
planning is adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.

Grading Procedure

 All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defect.
 Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defect.
 Surface defects 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defect.
 Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect.
 Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per defect.
 Running defects, such as tucks, needle lines, barre, crack marks, are
judgment defects
Proper Batching Criteria
 To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
 To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
 To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
 To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

M/c in Batch Section

Machine Name No. of M/c Origin
Air turning m/c 02 Local
Air turning m/c 01 KOREA
Open Fabric Batch m/c 01 Local

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 3.3 Lab Section
3.3.1 Organogram of Laboratory (physical+chemical):

Manager

Lab in charge

Asst. lab in charge

Lab Technician

Asst. Lab Technician

3.3.2 Lab dip

Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying
dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”.
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the
dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task
before bulk production.

Objective of Lab dip

The main objectives in lab are as follows:
 To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
 To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectroflash.
 To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
 Finally approved lab dip (Grade: ABC)

3.3.3 The Responsibilities of the Laboratory Section

 Sample preparation according to buyer requirement

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  Different properties test (Wash fastness, Color fastness, rubbing fastness,
Perspiration Test, Pilling Test etc.)
 Strength test of Dyestuff
 Chlorine test, Peroxide test
 Product Development etc.

3.3.4 Laboratory M/C

Laboratory Machineries with its specification:

01). Machine Type: Pilling Tester.
Brand : Presto Stantest Private Ltd
Manufacturer : INDIA
. Function : To determine the pilling resistance of fabric

02). Machine Type : Color Fastness to Rubbing

Brand : Presto Stantest Private Ltd
Manufacturer : INDIA
Function : To determine the color fastness to rubbing of dyed fabric
03.) Machine Type : Light Box
Brand : Gotech Testing Machine
Manufacturer : Taiwan
Function : To match the shade color under different illuminant

04). Test Name : Color fastness to Wash.

Brand : Presto Stantest Private Ltd
Origin : INDIA
Test Method : ISO 105-C06, ISO105-D0

05.) Test Name : Color Fastness to Perspiration

Brand : Presto Stantest Private Ltd
Origin : INDIA
Test Method : ISO 105-C06

06.) Machine type : Twisting tester:

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 Brand name : Fangyan Instrument Co. Ltd
Origin : CHINA
Function : To determine the net no of twist per inch/ cm /m of yearn

07) Machine Name : Electronic wrap reel

Brand Name : Fangyuan Instrument Co.Ltd
Origin : CHINA
Function : To Warp the yearn in predetermining length which helps to
determine yarn count

08) Machine Name : Electronic yearn count tester

Brand Name : Fangyuan Instrument Co.Ltd
Origin : CHINA
Function : To determine yarn count in TEX and English count

09) Machine Name : Formaldehyde content test

Brand Name : Fangyuan Instrument Co.Ltd
Origin : CHINA
Function : To determine the amount of formaldehyde present in dyed goods.

10) Machine Name : Digital Breusting Strength Tester

Brand Name : Fangyuan Instrument Co.Ltd
Origin : CHINA
Function : To determine the bruesting strength of fabric

11) Machine Name : Light Fastness Machine

Brand Name : Q labcorporation
Origin : U.S.A
Function : To determine the light fastness of dyed Fabric

12) Machine Name : Perspirometer

Brand Name : Fangyuan Instrument Co.Ltd
Origin : CHINA
Function : For the purpose of perspiration and other fastness properties

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Some Machines Picture of Testing Lab :

Fig. Pilling Tester Fig. Light Fastness Tester

Fig. Rubbing Fastness Fig. Yarn Count Tester

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3.3.5 Lab dyeing process follows up

The laboratory dyeing process of Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd. is as follow:

Sample Received
↓
Standard is checked with the Reference from the inventory
↓
If matched then sample prepared from that recipe
↓
If not matched than the color percentage is calculated by using Data Color
↓
Recipe Prepared
↓
Sample prepared according to recipe
↓
Standard (From Buyer) and Sample prepared is Compared
↓
If Okay then the sample is sent to Buyer
↓
Buyer approves the sample and order for the bulk production

3.3.6 Properties test

Color fastness to rubbing (wet & dry)
Firstly a sample of size (14 × 5) cm is taken at Wales & Course wise. The crocking cloth is put
on to the finger & is staged by finger clip & run 10 times in 10 seconds manually & assesses the
crocking cloth with gray scale.

The crocking cloth is placed on the water, it will suck some water and crocking cloth is then
squeezed. Then place the wet rubbing cloth on to the finger and stag with finger clip and run 10
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times in 10 seconds manually. The crocking is then assessed cloth by gray scale for wet rubbing.
Wet and dry rubbing are checked according to buyer’s requirement.

Color fastness to washing. (ISO/05-CO6)

1. Size of specimen: Sample &multifibre at (10 × 2) cm then stitch.

2. Detergent: 4g/l ECE detergent (WOB) + 1g/l sodium per borate put in distilled water &
cooled at 20°C & measured PH (where necessary).
3. the program is run in the following way: -
Test no. Temp°C Liq.volume Time min. Steel balls Adjust
ml pH

C2S 60°C 50 30 25 10.5±1

4. The sample is rinsed twice with cold water.

5. At 60°C by hanging or by flat iron pressing the dried but temperature should not less
more than 150°C.

Pilling test

The fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm is cut & balanced mark should be 10cm by using template. Then the
fabric is sewn so that it can be firmly fit in the tube a moulded polyurethane tubes. Then four
tubes are placed in a box & started 60±2 rev/min for 5 hrs or according to buyer requirement.
Then the fabric is assessed by putting tested specimen on the cabinet & compared with standard
photographs.

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Shrinkage &Spirality test

Firstly two ply of fabric is taken & put the template (50cm) on to the fabric. The template has 8
holes. Both length & width wise the template holes can measure 35cm at 3 places. Then 8 holes
are marked by permanent marker & also at the edges of the template.

The fabric is sewn & it is given to the washing m/c for run at 60°C for 60minutes with water.
After that the sample is dried & then fabric is measured.

Calculation

 Shrinkage Test
After wash – Before wash
Length wise: = ----------------------------------×100
Before wash

Width wise: After wash – Before wash

= ----------------------------------×100

Before wash

 Spirality test

Left side  Right side

= 2 × 100 %
Length(wid th for H & M)

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Dyestuff Strength test

Dyestuff strength test is very important for any textile dyeing industry.

A dye comes to industry then a sample fabric is dyed first to make it a reference. When that dye
is used and finished from inventory, new dye is ordered. But it is not sure the dye that reached
newly, will make a fabric as much dyed as before. That is why after arriving of dye to the factory
it is used to make a sample. Then this newly made sample is checked in respect of previously
dyed sample. If the two samples match with each other, it is resulted that the strength is okay.
But if not match then the amount to be given (less or more) is determined.

3.4 Dyeing Section

3.4.1 ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING SECTION:

Executive Director

General manage

Assistant General
 Manager

Production manager

Production
 officer
Dyeingmaster

Shift incharge

Floor in charge

Supervisor

Operator

Helper
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 3.4.2. Dyeing Machine with all Specification
There are 15 production dyeing machines and 9 sample dyeing machines in Rupashi
Knit Wears LTD. The capacities of the machines are not same. Some are large capacity m/c and
some are small or average. Here the all specification of the dyeing and sample dyeing m/c is
given below in brief.

Sample Dyeing Machine-1

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Theis

Country of Origin Germany

Production Capacity 20 KG

No. of Nozzle 01

Maximum Operating Temperature 140

Maximum Operating Pressure 3 bar

Sample Dyeing Machine-2

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Local

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 Country of Origin Bangladesh

Production Capacity 20 KG

No. of Nozzle 02

Maximum Operating Temperature 98

Maximum Operating Pressure 3 bar

Sample Dyeing Machine-3

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Local

Country of Origin Bangladesh

Production Capacity 40 KG

No. of Nozzle 01

Maximum Operating Temperature 98

Maximum Operating Pressure 3 bar

Sample Dyeing Machine-4

Machine Type Winch

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Brand Name Suntex

Country of Origin China

Production Capacity 10 KG

No. of Nozzle 01

Maximum Operating Temperature 140

Maximum Operating Pressure 3 bar

Sample Dyeing Machine-5

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Local

Country of Origin Bangladesh

Production Capacity 25 KG

No. of Nozzle 01

Maximum Operating Temperature 98

Maximum Operating Pressure 2.5 bar

Sample Dyeing Machine-6

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Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Suntex

Country of Origin China

Production Capacity 50 KG

No. of Nozzle 01

Maximum Operating Temperature 140

Maximum Operating Pressure 2.5 bar

Sample Dyeing Machine-7

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Suntex

Country of Origin China

Production Capacity 30 KG

No. of Nozzle 01

Maximum Operating Temperature 140

Maximum Operating Pressure 2.5 bar

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 Figure: Sample dyeing machine

Production Dyeing Machine-1

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Theis (Eco soft)

Country of Origin Taiwan

Production Capacity 250 KG

No. of Nozzle 02

Maximum Operating Temperature 140

Maximum Operating Pressure 3 bar

Water capacity 5500lts

Production Dyeing Machine-2

Machine Type Winch

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 Brand Name MCS(jet multi flow)

Country of Origin Taiwan

Production Capacity 400 KG

No. of Nozzle 03

Maximum Operating Temperature 100

Maximum Operating Pressure 3 bar

Water capacity 3800lts

Production Dyeing Machine-3

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Theis(Eco soft)

Country of Origin Taiwan

Production Capacity 375 KG

No. of Nozzle 03

Maximum Operating Temperature 100

Maximum Operating Pressure 3 bar

Water capacity 4400lts

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Production Dyeing Machine-4

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Theis(Eco soft)

Country of Origin Taiwan

Production Capacity 375 KG

No. of Nozzle 02

Maximum Operating Temperature 100

Maximum Operating Pressure 3 bar

Water capacity 4200lts

Production Dyeing Machine-5

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Theis (Eco soft)

Country of Origin Taiwan

Production Capacity 375 KG

No. of Nozzle 04

Maximum Operating Temperature 135

Maximum Operating Pressure 2.5 bar

Water capacity 4000lts

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Production Dyeing Machine-6

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Theis (Eco soft)

Country of Origin Taiwan

Production Capacity 1000 KG

No. of Nozzle 04

Maximum Operating Temperature 140

Maximum Operating Pressure 2.5 bar

Water capacity 8000lts

Production Dyeing Machine-7

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Theis (Eco soft)

Country of Origin Taiwan

Production Capacity 1500 KG

No. of Nozzle 02

Maximum Operating Temperature 100

Maximum Operating Pressure 2.5 bar

Water capacity 10000lts

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Production Dyeing Machine-8

Machine Type Winch

Brand Name Suntex

Country of Origin China

Production Capacity 400 KG

No. of Nozzle 04

Maximum Operating Temperature 130

Maximum Operating Pressure 3bar

Water capacity 4200lts

Figure: Bulk dyeing machine

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 Main parts of a dyeing machine
 Dye Bath
 Nozzle
 Winch
 Winch Pulley
 Panel Board
 Addition Tank
 Main Motor
 Pump
 Heat Exchanger
 Water Scale
 Valve
 Magnet Sensor
 Fabric Unload Reel
 Reserve Tank

3.4.3 Different Chemicals used by Rupashi with Function

Item Specification Function

Acetic Acid Acid Neutralization

Caustic Soda Alkali Remove dirt’s, oil, wax, fats etc

Soda Ash Alkali Make the color permanent

Glauber Salt Salt Increase absorbency of fabric

Common Salt Salt Increase absorbency of fabric

Hydrogen Per-Oxide Bleaching Agent Remove natural color from fabric

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Hydrose Reducing Agent Used in stripping process

Felosan-RGN Detergent Remove dirt’s from fabric

Matclean-OSR Oil Remover Remove oil from fabric

Antimusol-HTS Anti Foam Reduce foam producing

Cotoblank-NSR Soaping Agent Remove dirt’s from fabric

Sarabid-MIP Levelling Agent Help to produce uniform shade

Sarabid-LDR Levelling Agent Help to produce uniform shade

Saragal-CFT RH Levelling agent Help to produce uniform shade

Seraquest-NEO Sequesteren Agent Remove iron

Sapamine CWS Cationic Softener Make the fabric soft

Tubingal-4748 Non-ionic Softener Make the fabric soft

Albafluid-C Anti Crease Remove crease of fabric

AC-200 Anti Crease Remove crease of fabric

Setabicol-DSA-K Stabilizer Increase per-oxide activity

Invazyme CAT LIQ Per-Oxide Killer Remove per-oxide activity

Forzyme APB Per-Oxide Killer Remove per-oxide activity

Enzyme Liquid Enzyme Remove projecting fiber

Forfix-DRF Fixing Agent Fix the color

Matfix-VNF Fixing Agent Fix the color

Antistan LP-3000 Fixing Agent Fix the color

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 Matlevel-LPF Dispersing Agent Used in disperse dyeing process

Matacid-BD P.H Buffer Control the P.H

Tubinga- RGH Hydrophilic Silicon Make the fabric soft

Softener

Powersoft-180 Micro Silicon Softener Make the fabric soft

3.4.4 Different Dyes used by Rupashi:

Item Specification

LEUCOFOR BSB LIQ Brightener

SYNO WHITE 4BK Brightener

REACTIVE RED RR Reactive Dye

REACTIVE RED BB Reactive Dye

REACTIVE BLUE RR Reactive Dye

REACTIVE BLUE HB Reactive Dye

REACTIVE N. BLUE EMX Reactive Dye

REACTIVE YELLOW RR Reactive Dye

REACTIVE YELLOW HB Reactive Dye

BEZATIVE RED SLF Reactive Dye

BEZACTIVE YELLOW SLF Reactive Dye

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BEZACTIVE BLUE VRN Reactive Dye

BEZACTIVE BLUE SLF Reactive Dye

BEZACTIVE NAVY SLF Reactive Dye

ORANGE S3R Reactive Dye

ORANGE RR Reactive Dye

SOLAZOL YELLOW 3RS Reactive Dye

SOLAZOL RED 3BS Reactive Dye

SOLAZOL RED SP2B Reactive Dye

REMAZOL YELLOW 3GL Reactive Dye

REMAZOL T. BLUE G Reactive Dye

SETAZOL YELLOW 4GL Reactive Dye

SETAZOL YELLOW SX Reactive Dye

SETAZOL RED SX Reactive Dye

SETAZOL RED DSX Reactive Dye

SETAZOL RED SD Reactive Dye

SETAZOL BLUE BB Reactive Dye

SETAZOL BLUE BRF Reactive Dye

SETAZOL N. BLUE NG Disperse Dye

SETAZOL N. BLUE SE TR Disperse Dye

SETAZOL BLACK B Disperse Dye

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 SETAZOL BLACK TNN Disperse Dye

SETAZOL D. BLACK NG Disperse Dye

SETAZOL BLUE RSPL Disperse Dye

SETAZOL BLUE RBN Disperse Dye

3.4.5 Dyeing Sequence Operated in Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd.

Rupashi. is using different dyeing process or dyeing sequence for different types of
dyeing purposes like light color, critical color, PC/CVC dyeing (both part + single part) with
different types of fabrics like single jersey, single lacost, terry, pique, rib etc. All of the dyeing of
Rupashi knit dyeing.

Some common dyeing processes used in Rupashi are mentioned below:

Method A (Normal Process) :- Pre-Treatment:

Fill Water (1:7)

Load Fabric

Temp: 50

Chemical Inject

Temp: 60

Caustic Dosing
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 Temp: 70

Per-Oxide Dosing

Temp: 98

Run Time: 60 min

Cooling: 78

Drain

Cold Wash 2 Times

Neutralization (Pre-Treat): Fill Water (1:7)

Acetic Acid Inject

Per-Oxide Clear

Check per-Oxide

Enzyme

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 Temp: 55

Runtime: 60 min

Check Bio-polishing

Temp: 80

Runtime: 10 min

Drain

Dyeing Fill Water (1:7)

Temp: 45

Leveling Agent Inject

Run Time: 10 min

Color Dosing: 45 ×30 min

Run Time: 15 min

Salt Dosing: 15 min

Run Time: 20 min

Soda Dosing: 30 min

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 Run Time: 15 min

Temp: 60

Run Time: Until Matching

B/D (Bath Drop/Drain)

Color Wash: 40min

Drain

Neutralization (Dyeing) Fill Water (1:7)

A. Acid Inject

Run Time: 30 min

After Treatment (Dyeing) Fill Water (1:7)

Soaping Agent Inject

Temp: 60

Run Time: 20 min

Drain
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 Hot Wash: 30 Min

Softener Treat Softener Inject

Run Time: 20 min

Check sample (If ok)

Final Unload

Method B (Migration Process):

“Pre-Treatment Process is same as Method A”

Dyeing Fill Water (1:7)

Temp: 45

Leveling Agent Inject

Run Time: 10 min

Color Dosing: 45 ×30 min

Run Time: 15 min

Salt Dosing: 15 min

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 Run Time: 20 min

Migration 80 at 2G

Cooling at 45 at 2G

Soda Dosing: 30 min

Run Time: 15 min

Temp: 60

Run Time: Until Matching

B/D (Bath Drop/Drain)

Color Wash: 40min

Drain

Neutralization (Dyeing) Fill Water (1:7)

A. Acid Inject

Run Time: 30 min

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After Treatment (Dyeing) Fill Water (1:7)

Soaping Agent Inject

Temp: 60

Run Time: 20 min

Drain

Hot Wash: 30 Min

Softener Treat: Softener Inject

Run Time: 20 min

Check sample (If ok)

Final Unload

Method C (Critical Process):

“Pre-Treatment Process is same as Method A”

Dyeing: Levelling Inject 45

Temp: 80

Dyestuff Dosing: 30 min

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 Color runtime 15min

Salt Dosing 15 min

Run Time: 5 min

Temp: 90

Run Time: 10 min (P.H 6).

Cooling: 60

Soda Dosing: 40 min

Soda runtime: 20 min

Color Steam: 80

Drain
↓
Color Wash:30 min

Soaping Agent Inject

Temp: 60

Drain

Hot Wash

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 Hot With Soda

Runtime: 5 min

Cold wash 2 times

Softening Softener (Sample Check: 10 min)

Final Unload
Method of Polyester-Cotton Dyeing

“Pre-Treatment Process & Cotton Part Dyeing Process Same as Method A”

Dyeing Take water (1:7)

Buffer solution

Check PH (4-4.5)

Dispersing agent (45 ×5 ́)

Run time: 10min

Color dosing (45 ×20 ́)

Run time: 10-15min

Steam up to 130

Run time: 60 min

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 Cooling 80

Sample check

B/D

Wash 2 times

Inject NaOH (50 ×5 ́)

Steam up: 80

Hydross dosing (80 ×10 ́)

Run time (90 ×30 ́)

Wash 2 times

A. Acid inject

Wash 2 times

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 Figure: Dyed fabric

3.4.6. Recipe for Dyeing of Different Types of Fabric in Rupashi:

Rupashi use different types of chemicals and dyes for fabric dyeing. Most of the dyes
used are Reactive and Disperse. The chemicals are of different group with different types of
function. Here some recipes are given below. This are according to fabric weight and amount of
water used.

Recipe No. 1 (100% Cotton Dyeing)

Fabric Specification: S/J Fabric Weight: 673 KG

Dyestuff Used: Reactive Dye Shade: Aqua Green

Liquor Ratio: 1:7.5

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Pre-Treatment

Detergent (Felosan RGN) : 4.038 kg

Sequesterent (Seraquest NEO) : 2.5238 kg

Stabilizer (Setabicol DSA K) : 2.5238 kg

Soda Ash Light : 25.2375 kg

Bleaching Agent (Hydrogen Per-Oxide) : 12.6187 kg

Anti Creasing (AC 200) : 3.53 kg

Per-Oxide Killer (Invazyme CAT) : 0.7571 kg

Neutralization (Pre-Treat)

Acid (Acetic Acid) : 5.04 kg

Bio-Polish Treatment

Enzyme Liquid : 1 kg

Dyeing (Dyes and Chemicals)

Levelling Agent (Sarabid MIP) : 2.1994 kg

Levelling Agent (Serogal CFT RH) : 8.2476 kg

Dye 1 (Setazol Yellow SX) : 1.5183 kg

Dye 2 (Setazol blue BRF) : 3.0974 kg

Dye 3 (Remazol Turquish Blue G) : 12.5339 kg

Alkali (Soda Ash) : 82.4762 kg

Salt( Sodium Sulphate) : 329.9046

Soaping (After Treatment)

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Soaping Agent (Cotoblanc NSR) : 2 kg

Softening

Cationic Softener (Tubingal RGH) :3 kg

Recipe No. 2 (CVC Dyeing)

Fabric Specification: Single Jersey Terry-Fleece

Fabric Weight: 850 KG Dyestuff Used: Reactive Dye

Shade: Navy-05 Liquor Ratio: 1:7

Pre-Treatment

Detergent (Felosan RGN) : 4.16 kg

Sequesterent (Seraquest NEO) : 2.97 kg

Anti Creaser (AC 200) : 7.14 kg

Stabilizer (Setabicol DSA K) : 2.08 kg

Caustic Soda Flakes : 10.11 kg

Bleaching Agent (Hydrogen Per-Oxide) : 10.71 kg

Soaping/After Wash (Pre-Treat)

Soaping Agent (Cotoblanc NSR) : 912 gm

Per-Oxide Killer (Invazyme CAT) : .714 kg

Neutralization (Pre-Treat)

Acid (Acetic Acid) : 5.95 kg

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Bio-Polish Treatment

Enzyme Liquid : 1.7 kg

Dyeing (Dyes and Chemicals)

Salt (Sodium Sulphate) : 416.5 kg

Soda Ash Light : 104.12 kg

Sequesterent (Seraquest NEO) : 5.95 kg

Anti Creaser (Alba Fluid C) : 1.785 kg

Levelling Agent (Sarabid LDR) : 4.16 kg

Anti Foam : 912 gm

Dye 1 (Setazol Black BEX/B) : 20.83 kg

Dye 2 (Setazol Red-3BS) : 5.85 kg

Dye 3 Reactive Yellow 3RS) : 3.44 kg

Electrolyte : 136 kg + 800 gm

Soaping (After Treatment)

Soaping Agent (Cotoblanc NSR) : 0

Anti Creasing agent(Alba Fluid c) : 1.785 kg

Neutralization (Dyeing)

Acid (Acetic Acid) : 5.95 kg

Softening

Acid (Acetic Acid) : 5.95 kg

Cationic Softener (Sapamine-CNS) : 0

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N.B: Chemicals are measured according to weight of water used and dyestuffs are measured
according to fabric weight.

3.4.7 P.H Levels for Different Stages of Dyeing

Cotton Dyeing:
 Initial Bath pH : 6.5~7.0
 Before Enzyme, bath pH : 4.5~4.7
 After Enzyme & Aquachoron, pH : 5.5~6.0
 Before Scouring & Bleaching, pH (With Enzyme) : 5.5~5.8
 Before Scouring & Bleaching, pH (Without Enzyme) : 5.5~5.8
 Scouring & Bleaching, bath pH : 10.0~10.5
 After Scouring & Bleaching, pH : 8.5~9.0
 Before Leveling Chemicals, pH : 6.5~7.0
 After Leveling Chemicals, pH : 6.7~7.0
 After Adding Dyes, pH : 6.2~6.35
 After Addition of Salt, pH : 7.5~8.0
 After Addition of Soda, pH : 10.5~11.0
 Before Hot Wash, Bath pH : 6.8~7.2
 Hot Wash, bath pH : 8.5~8.7
 Before Softener, bath pH : 7.2~7.8
 After Softener Addition, bath pH : 6.5~6.8

Polyester Dyeing:

 Initial bath pH : 6.5~7.0

 Scouring, bath pH : 10.0~11.5
 After Scouring, bath pH : 8.5~9.0
 Before Addition of Leveling Chemicals, pH : 6.0~6.5
 After Addition of Leveling Chemicals, pH : 4.5~4.7
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  After Addition of Colors, bath pH : 4.2~4.3
 During Reduction Clearing, bath pH : 10.5~11.5
 Before Softener, bath pH : 6.3~6.8
 After Softener Addition, bath pH : 5.8~6.2

3.4.8 Standard Operational Procedure of Dyeing Machine

 Take over the machine from previous shift (check machine condition, any special
instruction urgency etc).
 Check the utilities supply (water, air, electricity etc).
 Read the dyeing program (provided by supervisor).
 Check and read carefully the technical information (provided by Dye-House Manager).
 Check the batch availability (prepared by batch section) of specific machine.
 Load the fabric into the machine and properly stitch together of two edges of fabric, don’t
make knots.
 Select the dyeing program (program no. will be informed by Dye-House Manager).
 Have to ensure the stock of dyes and chemicals before start the specific program.
 Check P.H, water level, temperature, dosing whatever required.
 Before unloading, should be check the P.H of the fabrics (P.H=5~6)
 Keep the section clean and tidy.

3.4.9 Operational Safety of Dyeing Machine

 Don’t open the lid during pressurized the machine and temp above 80 .

 During addition of the chemicals and dyes into the machine hand gloves, gum boot. Eye
protects goggles and masks should be used by the operator.
 During checking the sample, should be depressurized the machine, reduce the temp and
stop the particular reel (if possible).
 During tanglement of the fabrics, should be depressurized the machine, reduce the temp,
reduce the pump and reel speed, use the hand gloves, gum boot, eye protect goggles and
masks.

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  Don’t touch the machine surface when machine temperature is high.
 Pull off the operating bar during the filter changing or sample checking.

3.4.10 Stripping
The reactive dye cannot be satisfactory stripped from fibre due to covalent bond
between dye molecule and fibre. Stripping becomes necessary when uneven dyeing occurs.

Partial stripping
partial stripping is obtained by treating the dyed fabric with dilute acetic acid or
formic acid. Here temperature is raised to 70-100°C and treatment is continued until shade is
product of hydrolysis. The amount of acid used is as below: -
Glacial acetic acid: 5-10 parts
water: 1000 parts
Or
Formic acid: 2.5 to 10 parts
water: 1000 parts
Temperature: 70 - 100°C
Time: until desired shade is obtained.

3.5 Finishing Section

3.5.1 Textile Finishing

The treatment applied to the textile goods after dyeing and printing process is
normally called finishing process. Textile Finishing is called the beautification process of textile.
It is a process used in manufacturing of fiber, fabric, or clothing. In order to impart the required
functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to different type
of physical and chemical treatments.

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 Figure: Textile finishing ( Stenter M/C )

Textile finishing flow chart is different for two types of fabric. open fabric and.Finishing
processes are divided into two classes.

1. Physical or Mechanical finishes

2. Chemical finishes
Finishing section is consisting of two lines. They are –
- Open Fabric finishing
- Tube Fabric finishing

Objective of Finishing
 Improving the appearance – Luster, whiteness, etc.
 Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material and its softness,
suppleness, fullness, etc.
 Wearing qualities, non – soiling, anti crease, anti shrink, comfort, etc.
 Special properties required for particular uses–water–proofing, flame proofing, etc.
 Covering of the faults in the original cloth.

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3.5.2.TOTAL MACHINE IN FINISHING SECTION

Machine name Number of machine

Stenter machine 04
Open compacting 03
Tube compacting machine 02
Tube drayer 02
Tube silicon machine 02
Soft calendar machine 03
Fabric inspection machine 06

3.5.3. Flow Chart of Textile Finishing (Open Fabric)

Slitting
↓
Stentering
↓
Compacting
↓
Final inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Bailing
↓
Delivery

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3.5.4 Flow Chart of Textile Finishing (Tube Fabric)

Dewatering
↓
Drying
↓
Compacting
↓
Final inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Bailing
↓
Delivery

3.5.5. Different Finishing m/c with all specification

The finishing section of Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd. is consists of different types of finishing
machines. There are Dewatering m/c, Slitting m/c, Stenter m/c, Tubular compactor m/c, Open
width compactor m/c, etc. in this section. The specifications of this machine’s are given below:
 Slitting Machine-1 & 2
Machine Name Slitting m/c

Company Name BIANCO

Country of Origin ITALY

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 Maximum Production Capacity 3000 kgs/shift (8 hours)

Average Production Capacity 2500 kgs/shift (8 hours)

Maximum Speed 90 m/min

Maximum Padder Pressure 5 bar

Normal Padder Pressure 1-4 bar

Padder Roller One pair

 Stenter Machine-1
Machine Name Stenter m/c

Company Name IL SUNG MACHINERY Co. Ltd.

Country of Origin S. KOREA

Maximum Production Capacity 2500 kgs/shift (8 hours)

Normal Working Capacity 2000 kgs/shift (8 hours)

Number of Chamber 8

Number of Burner 8

Number of Blower 8

Maximum Speed 100 m/min

Maximum Temperature 220

Minimum Temperature 100

Normal Temperature 150

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 GSM Control By Over Feed

Year of Manufacture 2009

 Open Compactor Machine

Machine Name Compactor m/c (Open Line)

Company Name FERRARO

Model No. COMTEX-A -2600

Country of Origin Italy

Production Capacity 2000 kgs/shift (8 hours)

Normal Temperature 100

Maximum Temperature 150

Speed 15-20 m/min

Over Feed 4.5-6.5% as required

Year of Manufacture 2014

 Tube Compactor Machine

Machine Name Tube compactor m/c

Company Name Tubulal Textile LLC

Country of Origin U.S.A

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 Model No Pak-nit II-Delta Plus-SP

3.5.6 Different Finishing m/c Used in Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd.

Squeezing Machine
The main task of squeezing machine is to remove water remaining in the fabric after dyeing
or any wet-process by padding and squeezing system.
Function of Squeezing m/c:
 Remove the excess water from fabric.
 Control fabric dia.
 Use softening chemicals if required.
 Use padder pressure to make the color shade lighter or darker.
Dryer
The main task of dryer or drying machine is to dry the fabric by heating. Heating is done
by gas burner. Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is
evaporated from the fabric. The dryer machine of BHDP contains 3 Gas burners, 3 chambers, 3
blowers. Its maximum temperature is 174 and minimum temperature is 110 . Normally,
150 is used to dry the fabric.
Function of Dryer
 Dry the fabric.
 Increase GSM by using vibrator.
 Control color shade by increasing or decreasing the temperature.

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 Figure: Dryer

Stenter Machine
Stenter can be defined as finishing process in which the open width from of the fabric
is treated to set up the required width, weight and fabric texture as per customer’s specification.
These requirements from the customer are achieved by a single process. In Rupashi there are two
stenter machines. Two machines are same. Stenter machine contains 8 chambers, 16 burners, 16
blowers and its production capacity is 4200 kgs/shift (8 hours).

Figure: Stenter Machine

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Function of Stenter
 Drying
 Shrinkage Control
 Heat Setting
 Width Control
 Finishing Chemical Application
Working Principle of Stenter Machine
 Stenter frames are consists with and endless chain on each side to grip the fabric by
both selvedges, as it enters each chamber.
 The distance between the chains can be increased or decreased.
 In every chamber there are burners and blowers
Compactor Machine
The compactor machine is used to make the fabric more compact. After stentering, if
the required G.S.M, shrinkage and dia is not gain then it should be treated with a compactor
machine. In other words, this is a process of compacting the fabric in length ways direction.
Objectives of Compacting the fabric
 Upgrade the fabric hand feel and import a smooth, silky touch to the fabric.
 Compress the fabric and reduce its thickness.
 Import different degree of luster to the fabric.

Figure : Tube compactor M/c Figure : Open Compactor M/c

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Slitting Machine
The slitting machine is used to slit the tubular fabric and dewatering. Sometimes, this machine is
used only for washing with normal water or with softener. Here tubular fabric become open-
width and dewatering is performed.
Working Principle of Slitting Machine
 At first the tubular fabric from the fabric trolley are feed into the slitting machine.
 There is a magnetic sensor which sense the twist of fabric and it directs the fabric i.e
de-twist the fabric.
 There is cutting knife which continuously cutting the tubular fabric and making open
form.
 The speed of the machine depends on the fabric quality and production capacity of
the machine.
 Sometimes this machine is used only for normal water washing.
 Chemical washing is possible by this machine.
 On the back side of the machine, fabric is collected on the delivery trolley.
Function of Slitting Machine
 Used to remove the excess water after pretreatment and dyeing.
 To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering.
 Delivered fabric increase Free State.
 Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a
nozzle or air sprayer.

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Inspection Machine
In Rupashi Knitting and Dyeing Mill Ltd. modern and latest inspection machine is being used to
inspect the fabric that is to identify the finished fabric faults.

Figure : Fabric Inspection M/C

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 3.6 Printing Section

3.6.1. Basic Printing Flow Chart

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 Figure : Automatic Chest Printing M/C

3.6.2 Printing Process Sequence

Pigment printing

Recipe: Print Color:16-1452 TPX ( Orange)

Uniprint rubber mr/600 --------65.06%

For white BC-MW ---------------27.71%
Bezaprint Orange RG -------------4.05%
For fixer NF-100 ---------------3.18%

Rubber printing
Table preparation
↓
Recipe: Print Color:19-3952 TCX (White) Rubber printing paste apply with the help of
screen
For White BC. MW ---------73% ↓
Hanging the fabric for 30 min
For CLEAR BC.MC ----------19% ↓
For Binder NA -----------5% Curing at 150◦C (Belt speed 5m/ min)
↓
For Fixer NF 100 ----------03% Delivery

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Lak 60 Printing
Table preparation
Recipe: Print Color:White ↓
Printperfekt LAC-60 ------------78gm Fabric plaited on the table
↓
Uniprint rubber MR/100……..118gm Lak 60 printing paste apply with the help of
Tuliprint wiss k-90------------------58gm screen
↓
Tulassist fix 104ww---------------10gm Curing at 160◦C (belt speed 6.50 m/min
Tuli soft sem------------------------19gm ↓
Delivery
Tuli soft ps -------------------220gm

Crack printing Table preparation

↓
Recipe: Print Color: Tide Blue Fabric plaited on the table
Crack binder 812---------------93.85% ↓
Crack paste/clear apply with the help of screen
Bezaprint blue BT------------2.43% ↓
Beeza print black DW-------0.65% Dry in air temp or hand dryer m/c (slight)
↓
For fixer NF100---------------3.07% Printing paste apply with the help of screen
↓
Curing at 190◦C (belt speed 2 m/min)
Puff Printing ↓
Table Delivery
preparation
Recipe: Print Color:19-4015 TCX Gray ↓
For tone puff--------------- 25.30% Fabric plaited on the table
↓
NK Couper 594 -------------60.84% clear apply with the help of screen
↓
Bezaprint Violet T - -----2.56%
Puff paste apply with the help of screen
Bezaprint Black DW -----4.23% ↓
Hanging the fabric for 15 min
Bezaprint Blue RR -------0.81%
↓
For fixer NF-100 -------02.95% Keep heat press for 5 Sec at 160◦C
↓
NK Binder R5 H/N ------03.31% Delivery
Discharge printing
Table preparation
Recipe: Print Color 17-6636TCX (Yellow) ↓
Uniprint Binder DC-1 ---------73.07% Fabric plaited on the table
↓
Unidxes WFF2 -------------------19.65% Printing paste apply with the help of screen
↓
Bezaprint Yellow RR ------------01.05%
Curing at 190◦C (belt speed 3 m/min )
Bezaprint Black DW ------------00.16% ↓
Delivery
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 3.7 Garments Section

3.7.1 Description of Garments section

Machine Description

Product Name: Pegasus

Product Code : W664
Price : £1,495.00
Product Type: Sewing machine
Description: 2 or 3 needles with gauges of
3.2mm, 4.8mm, 5.6mm or 6.4mm suitable for
seam covering and hemming garments.

Product Name: Singer

Product Code : 457U105
Price : £695.00
Product Type: Sewing machine
Description: Reconditioned Cross
stitch machine

Product Name: Brother

Product Code : B755MK111
Price : £295.00
Product Type: Machines
Description:The Brother B755MK111 Basic
high speed lockstitch machine complete on
unit stand
with Single phase (240 volt motor)

Product Name: Brother PR-650 Commercial

Embroidery Machine
Product Code :PR-650
Price :£5,899.00
Product Type:Embroidery Machine

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3.7.2.Machine in garments section

Sl. No. Name of machine Quantity

01 Plain machine 55
02 4 thread Over Lock 42
03 Cylinder bed 12
04 Cylinder bed fabric Cutting 06
05 Flat lock flat bed 06
06 Flat bed top binder 06
07 Button stitch 03
08 Button hole 03
09 2 needle feed of the arm 02
10 Back top machine 02
11 Small cylinder bed 06
12 Flat lock cylinder 05
13 Flat lock Flat bed 01
14 Flat lock cylinder bed 01
15 Flat lock top binder 01
16 Flat lock cylinder bed 01
17 4 thread overLock 12
18 2 needle feed of the arm 01
19 Rib cutter 01
20 Bar tack 2
21 Over lock 23
22 Button stitch 01
23 Feed of the arm 01
24 Plain machine 42
25 Plain machine 144
26 Button hole 01
27 Button stitch 01
28 Over lock 4thread 48
29 Over lock 4thread 48
30 Vacume table 40
31 Cutting machine 10’ 04
32 Cutting machine 8’ 02
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3.7.3 Sewing Layout

Line Line Line Line Line Line

A B C D D E

Inspection Inspection Inspection

Finishing Finishing Finishing

Folding Folding Folding

Packing Packing Packing

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3.7.4 Production Sequences & Operations
Fabric Spreading
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Sewing
↓
Finishing/Quality Inspection
↓
Packing

3.8.WASHING
The process which is used to change the appearance, outlook comfort ability and fashion of the
garments & also
help to remove dust-dart is called garment washing. There are various types of washing process
are occurred in a washing section.

3.8.1. OBJECTIVE OF GARMENTS WASHING:

Garment washing is the best touch of a garment. Same type of garments can produce several
effects for several wash. Like this:

1. To create wash look appearance, seems the new

touch of fashion.
2. By the washing technique, faded/old, color or
tinted affect.
3. Washing technique creates new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, blasting,
whickering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, p.p spray, hand crapping, p.p spoonzing .
4. To reduce size materials that imports soft hand feels.
5. To attraction the customers/buyer by different types of fashionable washing and market
development

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Depending on garments construction different types of washing process can be done.

Twill/Canvas/Knitted - Normal wash, pigment wash, Caustic ,Silicon wash

Denim/Jeans/Gabardine –Enzyme wash, Acid wash, Stone wash,
Bleachwash.
Grey fabric- Super white wash

3.8.1.1 Number of machines in Washing section :

Machine Name No. of machine

Washing m/c 9

Deep dyeing m/c 4

Tumble dryer 10

Hydro-extractor 03

Sample washing m/c 02

3.8.1.2. LIST OF CHEMICALS:

Normal wash: Detergent.

Caustic wash: NaOH.

Pigment wash: Detergent, NaOH, Soda Ash.

Bleach wash: Bleaching Agent

Enzyme wash: Enzyme

Acid wash: Acid, CH3COOH, H3PO4, KMnO4.

Super white: Optical Brightener.

Stone Bleach wash: Stone + Bleaching Agent

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3.8.2. TYPES OF WET PROCESS IN WASHING:

 Normal wash
 Heavy garments wash
 Enzyme wash
 Stone Enzyme wash
 Stone bleach wash
 Acid wash
 Caustic wash

3.8.2.1. TYPES OF DYEING IN WASHING:

 Pigment dyeing
 Sulpher dyeing
 Deep dyeing

 Cool dyeing

3.8.2.2. TYPES OF DRY PROCESS IN WASHING:

 P.P spray
 P.P sponging
 Whiskering
 Wrinkle Finish
 Destroy
 Tagging

3.8.3. Different types of Washing Procedure:

Normal Wash
Normal wash 5 min at 40°c with 1:10 Material: Liquor ratio.

Heavy garments wash

Here 10-20 min wash at 30°-40° c by 1:10 Material: Liquor ratio with silicon softener.

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Enzyme wash
Here 10-20 min wash at 55°c by 1:10 Material: Liquor ratio with powder enzyme at pH 4.5 .
Due to liquid enzyme 10-20 min wash at 75°c by 1:10 Material: Liquor ratio at pH 4.5 .
Stone Enzyme wash
Like as enzyme wash just adding stone during wash.
Acid Wash
Solution of stone and potash (5g/l) with garments, wash for 20-30 min.

3.8.3.1. Flow Chart of Burn Washing on T-shirt

First acid salt solution is sprayed on the foam properly

↓
Then sample is loaded on m/c & run 2-3 mints

↓
Sample out & drying at 700C x 20min

↓
Then caustic soda treatment for neutralization

↓
Cold wash

↓
Again drying

↓
Delivery

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3.8.3.2 Process Flowchart of Tie Wash

Desizing (15 minutes at 50°c)

↓
Rinse-wash

↓
Enzyme (20 minutes at 45°c)

↓
Rinse-Wash

↓
Tie remove

↓
Enzyme (20 minutes at 45°c)

↓
Rinse-Wash

↓
Softener (Run time 5 minutes, pH-5.5)

↓
Hydro extract

↓
Hot Dryer (40 minutes 70°c)

↓
Cold dryer (20 minutes at room temperature )

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3.8.3.3. Washing process of pigment wash:

Step 01: Desizing

Water is added (400 Lt)

↓
Garments are added
↓
Machine started running
↓
320 gm Detergent added
↓
320gm Caustic soda added
↓
600gm Soda ash added
↓
Temperature raise to 60°C
↓
Time 20-60 minutes
↓
Drop the liquor
↓
Add water and cold wash

Step 02: Softening

Water is added (400 Lt)

↓
Garments are added
↓
Machine started running
↓
240 gm Softener added
↓
200gm Acetic acid added
↓
160gm silicon softener added
↓
Temperature Cold
↓
Time 15 minutes
↓
Drop the liquor

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 ↓
Unload garments on trolley

Step 03: Hydro Extracting

Load the garments on m/c

↓
R.P.M 700-900
↓
Time 3-5 minutes
↓
Unload the garments on trolley

Step 04: Drying

Load the garments on dryer m/c

↓
Temp 60- 70°C
↓
Time 40-50 minutes
↓
Time 10-15 minutes for cold dry
↓
Unload the garments
↓
Quality checking

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3.8.4. Machines Used in Washing Section

Figure: Garments washing M/C

Figure: Gas Dryer Figure: Hydro-extractor

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 3.9 Quality Control & Assurance
3.9.1 Introduction
Quality control, or QC for short, is a process by which entities review the quality
of all factors involved in production. This approach places an emphasis on three aspects.
1. Elements such as controls, job management, defined and well managed processes,
performance and integrity criteria, and identification of records.
2. Competence, such as knowledge, skills, experience, and qualifications.
3. Soft elements, such as personnel integrity, confidence, organizational culture,
motivation, team spirit, and quality relationships.

Controls include product inspection, where every product is examined visually, and
often using a stereo microscope for fine detail before the product is sold into the external
market. Inspectors will be provided with lists and descriptions of unacceptable product
defects such as cracks or surface blemishes for example.

Objects of Quality Control

 Specification test.
 Raw material control.
 Process control.
 Process development.
 Product testing.

3.9.2 Finished Fabric Inspection

Purpose
To ensure that only and acceptable quality of fabric is used or producing garments and proper
quantity of shipment is received from the supplier.
Scope
All produced and incoming fabrics of Rupashi Knit Wear Ltd( Rupashi Group)
Point Calculation System

4-Point System Acceptance Calculation

Size of Defects Points Classification

3 inch or less 1

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 >3˝ and ≤6˝ 2 Up to 40 points = A

>6˝ and ≤9˝ 3 41-60 points = B

>9˝ 4 61-80 points = C

Hole≤1˝ 2 Above = Reject

Hole>1˝ 4

Calculation of points is done by-

= Point/100 Square yards

3.9.3 Faults in Finished Fabric in Different Stages

In quality control and quality assurance department, they generally detect all types of faults
found in the finished fabric. The faults found in finished fabric may be from spinning that is
yarn, knitting, dyeing or from finishing. So, the faults or defects in a finished fabric can be
divided into five categories such as-
1. Faults in Yarn
2. Faults in Knitting
3. Faults in Dyeing
4. Faults in Printing
5. Faults in Finishing

Faults/Defects in Dyeing

Dyeing is a process of coloring fibers, yarns, or fabrics with either natural or synthetic
dyes. Many known-unknown faults occur during dyeing operation. After dyeing, dye
molecules have uncut chemical bond with fiber molecules. The temperature and time
controlling are two key factors in dyeing. There are mainly two classes of dye, natural and
man-made.

Some common faults of dyeing are listed below-

1. Uneven Dyeing 8. Softener Mark

9. Specky Dyeing
2. Batch to Batch Shade Variation
10. Yellow Spot
3. Patchy Dyeing Effect 11. Chemical Stain
12. Dye Migration 104
13. Meter
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by University shade
of Dhaka ) variation
14. Fabric strength loss Color contrast
 4. Roll to Roll Shade Variation
5. Crease Mark
6. Dye Spot

Faults/Defects in Finishing
In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to any process performed on yarn or fabric
after weaving or knitting to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished
textile or clothing

Major faults found in knitted fabric are given below-

1. Dirt Stain
11. Finishing m/c Shining mark
2. Yellow Band Line 12. Bowing
3. Rubbing Mark 13. Side pin mark
4. Insect Spot 14. M/c stoppage mark
5. Compactor Crease 15. Wrong slitting
6. Folding Crease 16. Side edge mark
17. Grain line
7. Soil Spot
18. Brushing /Sueding Quality
8. Dia Variation
19. Stenter temp. up-down
9. Uneven GSM 20. Curling
10. Water spot/Steam spot

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 3.10. Merchandising
Merchandising is one of the most important parts for garments trade. Without merchandising
this trade will never be fulfill. Merchandiser deals or handles all the things from buyer to
production. He is the center for all the tasks.

Merchandising refers to the techniques used to sell and buy products. A merchandiser is
someone who purchases a product from a manufacturer, and then sells it to buyers. Easily it
can be said that a merchandiser is he/ she who act like a buyer to a supplier and also act like a
supplier to the buyer. There are numerous techniques that a merchandiser may use to
convince buyers to buy the products he or she is selling.

3.10.1. Responsibility of Merchandiser:

 Sample development
 Price negotiation
 Order confirmation
 L/C opening
 Opening summery
 Sourcing
 Material collection
 Production planning
 Production monitoring
 Quality assurance
 Arrange final inspection

Functions of a Merchandiser:

1. Costing and development

2. Order execution and follow up
3. Marketing

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The necessity of merchandising lies essential due to the following factors:

1. Dramatic growth,
2. Complicated raw material & process,
3. Complex network,
4. Advent of new styles,
5. Reduced Product Life Cycle,
6. Textile innovations,
7. Computer applications,
8. Global transition
To achieve this level of different control while developing, executing and delivering a
product line that meet the rapidly changing needs of target market, it requires a very special
management professional which considered being a “Merchandising profession”.

APPAREL EXPORT MERCHANDISING:

Apparel export merchandising may be defined as ‘all the planning & activities involved right
from the buyer communication & order receiving till the execution or shipment of the order
by fulfilling the following factors (Six Rights):
Right Merchandise: Retailers must fill their shelves with the merchandise that customer
wants.
Right Place: The location of the merchandise is of prime importance since it decides the
accessibility. Much merchandise is seasonal in nature and must be on hand when it is most
needed.
Right Time: Much merchandise is seasonal in nature and must be on hand when it is most
needed.
Right Quantity: A profitable balance between volume of sales and amount of inventory is
the desired goal.
Right Price: Merchandiser must arrive at a price that is high enough to give the store profit
and yet low enough to meet the competition and customers expectations.
Right Promotion: Right balance between the investment and the appeal created for the
customers.

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3.10.2 Process Flow in Merchandising

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3.10.3 Role of Merchandiser:

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3.10.4. Confirmed Order:

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3.10.5. TECH-PACK:

A tech pack is informative sheet which encompasses all the specifications of the requirements
before embarking on the garment manufacturing process. Contains all the details of any
specific style of the garment. This document is usually prepared by the designer and finalized
in consultation with the merchandisers, and then forwarded to bulk sampling department or to
the production department for the reference and guide for bulk manufacturing.

Tech pack includes:

 Fashion flat and sketch

 Tech pack format
 Season or style
 Color variation for a particular style
 Fabric details
 Stitching and garments construction detailing
 Graphic or print details
 Graphic or print placement details
 Embroidery details
 Trim detailing
 Washing details
 Measurement details and size chart
 Graphical representation of measurement
 Bills of materials

3.10.6. Costing:

Merchandise makes a cost sheet to see if the product is feasible or not in terms of cost and
revenue. Merchandiser has to calculate the cost of products including all wastes and
accessories to tell the final cost of the product to his customers.

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Costing Areas:

EMBROIDERY

PACKING
MATERIAL

COST CUT MAKE

COST
Zipper
s

BASIC
ACCESSORIES
Buttons COST WASHING

Rivets PACKAGING

FABRIC COST

Thread TRIM COST

Size Labels
POCKETING
labels
SHELL
Main Wash care FABRIC
labels
labels

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 3.11 Utility Services

Introduction
Rupashi Knitting and Dyeing Mill LTD. is a big project. So, it required adequate utility
services without which the factory cannot run. Here the following utility services are
available-
 Water
 Electricity
 Steam
 Compressed Air
 Gas

3.11.1 Water Treatment Plant (WTP)

Source of Water
Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd. use water from land which is pumped by deep tube well. There is a
standard quality water treatment plant (WTP) in where the hardness of water is being treated
continuously and being soft which is required for the dyeing purposes. Besides this they are
using water to produce steam by heating. It is done by boiler.
Water Treatment Plant

Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd. requires 2500 cubic meter water/day for different purposes like in
dyeing m/c, in steam producing etc. The WTP of Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd. has ability to treat
the hard water 80 cubic meter/hour. Here the layout of WTP in Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd. is
given below:

Measurement of Water Hardness

Hardness is a term applied to water denoting a measurement of its PH and metal salt content.
There are two systems of measuring water hardness. They are
1. PPM (Parts per million)
2. In Degree

PPM: The number of grains of calcium carbonates which is present in one million grains of
water is called PPM. 1 grains of calcium carbonates present in 1 million grains of water.

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In Degree: The number of grains of calcium carbonates which is present in 70,000 grains of
water.

Rupashi Knit Wears Ltd ( Rupashi Group)

Using the degree system for measuring the hardness of water. Classification of water
according to hardness in degree is as below:

Description Total Hardness (Degree)

Very Soft 0-4

Soft 5-9

Mild 9-14

Fairly Mild 15-18

Hard 19-30

Very Hard Above 30

The flow chart of Water Treatment Plant is given below-

Hard Deliv
Water Carbon ery
Stone Resin
Store Tank Filter
Filter Filter

Soft Water Store

Tank

Figure: Water Treatment Plant

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3.11.2 Electricity

Though the main supplier of electricity to run the factory and office of Metro Knitting and
Dyeing Mill LTD. is REB, but this electricity is insufficient and costly. That’s why they has
gas and diesel generators.
Total electricity produce by gas & diesel generator – 1900 KW

Requirement of electricity to run the factory & office – 1250 KW

Specification of generators are given below-

Machine No. 1

Type of Generator Gas Generator

Brand Name WAUKESHA

Origin USA

Model No. MTG 846

Capacity 750 KW

Volts 415

Phase 3

Power Factor 0.8

Frequency 50 Hz

AMPS 1304

Governed Speed 1000 rpm

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Machine No. 2

Type of Generator Gas Generator

Brand Name WAUKESHA

Origin USA

Model No. VHP 5904 GSID

Capacity 900 KW

Volts 415

Phase 3

Power Factor 0.8

Frequency 50 Hz

AMPS 1565

Governed Speed 1000 rpm

Machine No. 3

Type of Generator Diesel Generator

Brand Name DATE

Origin Mexico

Model No. HC1434F

Capacity 280 KW

Volts 415

Phase 3-4

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 Power Factor 0.8

Frequency 50 Hz

AMPS 1304

Governed Speed 1000 rpm

Diesel Consumption 55 lit/hr

3.11.4 Steam
The equipment used for producing steam is called steam generator or boiler. The boiler used
for producing steam in Rupashi Knit Wear Ltd( Rupashi Group) is Cochran Boiler which is a
fire tube type boiler. Simple vertical boiler of fire tube type is mainly used in small plant
requiring small quantity of steam and where floor area is limited.
Here, gas is fed to the burner which run by thermo motor and produce flame. The
flame produces hot flue gases, which pass through the tubes that are surrounded by water.
This water supplied form the soft tank to feed water tank, which is situated above the boiler.
The heat energy of the flue gas is transfer to water which is converted into steam. This steam
is supplied to the whole plant.

Specification of Cochran Boiler is given below-

Brand Name Cochran

Manufacturer BIB Cochran Ltd.

Origin Scotland, UK

Capacity 7.5 ton

Maximum Allowable Pressure 11 bar

Maximum Allowable Temperature 188

Maximum Heat Output 4833 KW

Safety Valve Pressure 10.86 bar

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 Year of Manufacture 2004

3.11.5 Compressed Air

Compressed air is air which is kept under a certain pressure, usually greater than that of the
atmosphere. Compressed air is regarded as the fourth utility, after electricity, natural gas and
water. However, compressed air is more expensive than the other three utilities when
evaluated on a per unit energy delivered basis. Rupashi Knit Wear Ltd( Rupashi Group) use
compressor air for different types of use. They produce it by using compressor machine.

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 Chapter- 4

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4.1 Impact of internship
A student can grain a lot of knowledge in the industrial training. In this training I also grain
various type of knowledge in the different section. In this report I describe about eleven
sections. All this section is very important for me.

4.1.1 Knitting Section

Knitting is the first internee training section. Knitting is the main part of the knitted fabric.
Here I know difference between knitted fabric. I see different type of knitted machine and
how they work. In this section I also know about the yarn, yarn count and blended fabric.
More than 20 different type of fault occur in the knitting section. In this section I also know
how can determine the production rate per hour. I also see different type of cam and also see
how can set up this in the machine. Needle is the main part of this machine. Number of
needle can determine by the use of a equation and I also see how can set up needle in the
machine.

4.1.2 Batch Section

In the batch section I know what is the main different of the various type of knitted fabric.
There is different type of knitted fabric. They are fancy fabric, single jersey fabric, double
jersey fabric, blended fabric and so on. In the section I also understand who the single jersey
fabric is and who the double jersey fabric is?Fabric batching in this section by the use of a
batching equation.

4.1.3 Lab Section

Lab section call sample testing section. Various type of testing occurs in this section. Such as
wicking test, whiteness test, bursting test and so on.Different type of chemicals use in this
section.Recipe calculation done in this section.

4.1.4 Dyeing Section

Dyeing section means coloration section. Cotton, polyester and CVC fabric are the main dyed
fabric in this industry. Dyes are the main part of this section. Here I know the mechanisms of
the dyes and other auxiliary chemical reaction. Also know the value of P H. How can they do
polyester part burning after polyester dyeing? What is migration? Migration means
movement of an added substance from one area of textile to another. Commonly used to
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express the movement of color from the dyed area to the undyed area of cloth. In here I see
different type fabric are used different type of dyes and there auxiliary chemicals. I also know
how can remove uneven shade from the fabric by the use of stripping process.
Sterner is a big machine which is used in the finishing section. Fabric GSM control, diameter
control and heat setting is the part in this section. Fabric ironing does in the finishing. There
are some impurities in the dyed fabric which can be removed by the use of compactor
machine in the finishing section. Shrinkage and crease effect occur in the fabric after dyeing
which can be control in this section.

4.1.5 Printing Section

Printing is the most critical part of the industry. There is various type printing. Serene is the
main part of the printing. In this section I know about the curing. Curing is the process to fix
the color on the textile materials by steaming or heating. Heating for pigment printing and
steaming for reactive printing. Calendaring is a process to make the fabric’s surfaces smooth.
I also know about the mock printing. Thickener and print past are major part of this section.

4.1.6 Garments Section

Cutting and sewing are the main part of the garments. Pattern produces the specific shape and
quality garments and also minimizes the wastage and cost of garments. I also know what is
the difference between the first pattern and the first developing sample? When sample are
collected from production floor and send it to buyer for quality checking then it is called
production sample. In the garments section I also know about the different type of stitching.

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 Chapter - 5

Conclusions

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 Conclusions

There is large difference between the theoretical knowledge and practical experiences. This is
very meaningful in case of the study of Textile Engineering. Industrial attachment or
Industrial training is an essential part for textile education because it minimizes the gap
between theoretical and practical knowledge. This Industrial training increases our thought a
lot about textile engineering & technology. It also helps us to know a lot about industrial
production process, machineries, and industrial management and made us suitable for
industrial life. Besides it gives us the first opportunity to work in industry. So we can say
industrial attachment prepare us for the expected destiny of practical life.
The Rupashi Knit Wear Ltd( Rupashi Group) produces knitted garments and is largely focused
toward exporting. Most firms produce t-shirts, targeted at low-end retail outlets in Europe and
the United States. In this project we learn a more about knit garments, work place and
environment of the industry.

The importance of the textile industry in the economy of Bangladesh is very high.
Furthermore, the industry is expected to be the catalyst in the industrialization of Bangladesh,
and has been declared as a thrust sector by the government. However, the largest sub-sector
of the industry, spinning, faces numerous problems, coupled with faulty government policies
and a lack of fairness in competition from neighboring country.

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