APM UNIT-1 FD: Ms. Liza Nagpal

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APM

UNIT-1
FD Ms. Liza Nagpal
Apparel
Production
APPAREL PRODUCTION, ALSO KNOWN AS
GARMENT PRODUCTION IS A PROCESS
WHERE FABRIC IS BEING CONVERTED INTO
GARMENTS.
THE TERM APPAREL PRODUCTION IS
BASICALLY USED WHEN GARMENTS ARE
MANUFACTURED IN A FACTORY.
TRADITIONALLY APPAREL
MANUFACTURING FACTORIES HAS BEEN
DIVIDED INTO TWO SECTORS AS
DOMESTIC AND EXPORT.
A FACTORY PRODUCES A BULK QUANTITY OF
GARMENTS FOR A STYLE OR DESIGN AT A
TIME.
PRIOR TO START PRODUCTION OF AN ORDER,
THE FACTORY NEEDS TO GO THROUGH SOME
ACTIVITIES WHICH ARE KNOWN AS PRE-
PRODUCTION.
PRE-PRODUCTION PROCESS INCLUDES
SAMPLING, COSTING, PRODUCTION

Pre- Production PLANNING, SOURCING OF RAW MATERIAL,


AND PRODUCTION PATTERN MAKING. FABRIC
CUTTING, PRINTING, EMBROIDERY, SEWING,
THREAD TRIMMING, WASHING, IRONING,
FOLDING, AND PACKING ARE THE
PRODUCTION FUNCTIONS.
SAMPLING:
SAMPLING IS A PROCESS WHERE FACTORIES
DEVELOP GARMENT SAMPLES ACCORDING TO THE
BUYER'S SPECIFIED DESIGN.
THIS IS ALSO KNOWN AS PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
STAGE. SAMPLES ARE REQUIRED AT VARIOUS
STAGES TO GET APPROVAL FROM BUYERS ON A
PARTICULAR DESIGN.
AS PER THE DEVELOPMENT STAGES SAMPLES ARE
NAMED AS PROTO SAMPLE, FIT SAMPLE, SIZE SET
SAMPLE, SALESMAN SAMPLE, PRODUCTION SAMPLE,
TOP OF PRODUCTION (TOP) SAMPLE, AND
SHIPMENT SAMPLE.
COSTING
A BUSINESS IS ALL ABOUT MAKING PROFIT.
SO CORRECT COSTING OF A PRODUCT BEFORE ORDER FINALIZATION IS VERY
IMPORTANT.
COSTING OF GARMENT IS THE CUMULATIVE COST OF RAW MATERIALS, DIRECT
LABORS AND DIRECT AND INDIRECT OVERHEADS.
AFTER DEVELOPING SAMPLE OR DIRECTLY RECEIVING BUYER'S SAMPLE FACTORY
NEEDS TO SEND FOB (FREIGHT ON BOARD) PRICE OF THE GARMENT.
TO DECIDE FOB OF A GARMENT FACTORY MAKES COST SHEET INCLUDING RAW
MATERIAL COST, TOTAL OF DIRECT LABOUR COSTS OF EACH PROCESSES, FACTORY
OVERHEAD.
AN FOB IS THE SUM OF GARMENT COST, FACTORY MARGIN AND TAXES.
PRODUCTION PLANNING
AFTER RECEIVING THE ORDER FACTORY PLANS FOR THE RAW MATERIAL REQUIRED
FOR THE ORDER.
RAW MATERIALS LIKE FABRICS, SEWING THREADS, PACKING MATERIALS, HANGTAGS,
AND OTHER ACCESSORIES. FACTORY PLANS TIMELINES LIKE WHEN TO START
CUTTING WHEN TO SUBMIT PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE WHEN TO FINISH SEWING
AND FINISHING, FINAL INSPECTION DATE, AND SHIPMENT DATE. IN THE
PRODUCTION PLANNING STAGE JOB RESPONSIBILITY FOR DIFFERENT PROCESSES IS
DEFINED.
CUTTING IN THIS STAGE FABRICS ARE LAYERED ON A TABLE
LAYER BY LAYER UP TO A CERTAIN HEIGHT.
THEN BY MEANS OF A CUTTING MACHINE FABRIC ARE
CUT INTO GARMENT SHAPES OR PATTERN AND
SEPARATED FROM THE LAYER.
FABRIC LAYERING IS POSSIBLE BOTH MANUAL
SPREADING AND AUTOMATED SPREADING. CUT PARTS
ARE THEN NUMBERED AND BUNDLED AND SEND TO
SEWING ROOM.
FOR DETAILS ABOUT CUTTING PROCESS SEE CUTTING
ROOM OVERVIEW.
THE QUALITY OF END PRODUCT (GARMENT) IS VERY
MUCH DEPENDS ON THE GOOD CUTTING QUALITY.
SECONDLY, FABRIC THE MAIN RAW MATERIAL OF THE
GARMENT REPRESENTS ABOUT 70% OF TOTAL
GARMENT COST. THAT IS WHY CUTTING IS AN
IMPORTANT PROCESS LIKE OTHERS WHERE CONTROL
THE FABRIC SAVING AND GARMENT QUALITY.
SEWING OR STITCHING
GARMENT PANELS ARE STITCHED TOGETHER IN SEWING ROOM BY MEANS OF SEWING
MACHINES.
IN SEWING 2D FABRIC PATTERNS ARE CONVERTED IN 3D FORMS. AN OPERATOR RUN THE
MACHINE AND USING SEWING THREADS GARMENT PARTS ARE JOINED TOGETHER.
VARIOUS TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE ARE AVAILABLE FOR SEWING. MACHINES ARE
SELECTED ACCORDING TO THE SEAM AND STITCH REQUIREMENT.
IN INDUSTRY TRADITIONALLY SEWING MACHINES ARE LAID IN A RAW.
CUT PARTS ARE FEED AT THE START OF THE LINE, PASSED THROUGH THE LINE AND AT
THE END OF THE LINE A COMPLETE GARMENT COME OUT.
EACH MACHINE IS RUN BY INDIVIDUAL OPERATORS AND AN OPERATOR SEWS ONLY ONE
OR TWO OPERATIONS OF THE GARMENT. A LINE CONSIST OF SEWING OPERATORS,
HELPER TO FEED THEM WITH CUT PARTS, THREAD AND OTHER TRIMS, QUALITY CHECKER
AND ONE FULLY OR PARTIALLY DEVOTED SUPERVISOR.
THREAD TRIMMING
AFTER STITCHING, ALL HANGING THREADS ARE
CUT BY MEANS OF A HAND TRIMMER. AUTO
THREAD TRIMMING MACHINES ARE ALSO
AVAILABLE TO PERFORM THIS TASK.
ALL LOOSE THREADS INSIDE A GARMENT ARE
REMOVED AS WELL.
GARMENTS WITHOUT ANY LOOSE THREAD AND
LONG TAIL ARE A BASIC QUALITY REQUIREMENT.

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