Flying Scale Models July 2018
Flying Scale Models July 2018
Flying Scale Models July 2018
GIF E
T
FOR S
UBSC
DETA R
ILS P IBERS!
42...
TECHNIQUE
RADIAL COWL
WITHOUT A MOULD!
FREE GLOSTER
GAMECOCK
FULL SIZE PLANS
CESSNA
C-165
AIRMASTER 1/6TH SCALE CONSTRUCTION FEATURE
● CLOSE-UP FULL SIZE DETAIL ● 1:40 SCALE THREE-VIEWS ● COLOUR SCHEMES ● TYPE HISTORY
18-INCH SPAN FOR MICRO R/C SYSTEMS
07
MATCHING ULTRA LIGHTWEIGHT RADIO TO RUBBER POWER SCALE KITS 9 771368 900066
THE ISSUE AHEAD...
Formation...
FLYING SCALE MODELS - THE WORLD’S ONLY MAGAZINE FOR SCALE MODEL FLYERS
ON THE COVER
If aircraft had Family Tree
diagrams, the Gloster Gamecock
would be traced immediately back
to the WW1-era SE5a., but with
the flamboyant RAF squadron
colour schemes of the between-
the-wars period. Gordon
Whitehead’s 1/6th scale model is
our major construction feature in
this issue
6 6 gloster gamecock
1/6th scale 59.6” (1512mm) wingspan model of one of the Royal
Air Force's earlier post WW-1 fighter aircraft, designed by
GORDON WHITEHEAD.
26 gamecock IN DETAIL
Close-up photo study of the painstakingly accurate replica at
the Jet Age Museum, Gloucester
44 scale soaring
Chris Williams describes his revised wing construction for two-
piece gull wings
CONTACT
Admin Manager: Hannah McLaurie
Office Manager: Paula Gray
I
Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Beds, LU6
formation of the Royal Air Force in
1QX. Reproduction in part or whole of
April 1918, it is worth noting that in the
any text, photograph or two decades that followed, this the
illustration without written permission Wold’s first independent military Air
from the publisher is strictly prohibited. Arm was reduced to a shadow of its 1918
presence, defending its survival against the
While due care is taken to ensure the objections to its very existence by Army
contents of Flying Scale Models is and Navy. But the effective use of RAF
accurate, the publishers and printers Squadrons to maintain ‘Imperial Order’ in
cannot accept liability for errors and the Middle East helped to fend off total
emasculation, together with the carefully
omissions. Advertisements are orchestrated Air Shows and Air Pageants
accepted for publication in FLYING over home skies where fighter aircraft decked in their colourful and
SCALE MODELS only upon Doolittle prominent individual identification schemes provided aerobatic
performances intended to keep the R.A.F in the public eye.
Media’s standard terms of
With little else to do in a world where external military threat seemed
acceptance of advertising, copies of minimal and remote, our Air Force was, in many respects “The Best
which are available from the Flying Club In The World” for the elite, lucky enough to participate,
advertising sales department of riding their colourful fighter biplanes.
One of these aircraft that seems to have received scant attention for a
FLYING SCALE MODELS. long time now, is the mid-1920s Gloster Gamecock, the last significant
model of which we’ve seen dates back to the mid-1970s, when Gordon
EDITORIAL ADVERTISEMENT Whitehead first published his 1/6th scale model of the type. So Gordon
gave us permission to re-publish his design, which is presented as our
& CIRCULATION: Doolittle Mill, Doolittle
major construction feature in this issue.
Lane, Totternhoe, Of fighter aircraft types of that period, there are quite a number for
Beds, LU6 1QX. which there are no surviving genuine examples, and the Gloster
Tel. 01525 222573 Gamecock is one (assuming you discount the fuselage hulk surviving in
Finland). But skill and determination has produced a first class replica,
Email: [email protected] using original works drawings, and it resides at the Jet Age Museum in
Gloucester where it can be seen at weekends. Entry there is free and
CIRCULATION TRADE ENQUIRIES: well worth a visit.
Seymour Distribution, 2 East Poultry
GLOBE SWIFT - WHAT SCALE?
Avenue, London, EC1A 9PT The brain in either my calculator - or alternatively its driver (me) must
020 7429 4000. have suffered serious brain-fade, while working out the scale of the
Globe Swift three-view in last month’s issue. Rather than the 1:30 scale
intended, it’s something like 1:34.868-to-infinity! It only came to light
NEWSTRADE: Select Publisher Services,
when organising an enlargement to quarter scale, so we’ve presented it
3 East Avenue, Bournemouth. again at the correct scale on pages 54-55 in this month’s issue.
BH3 7BW. Also included is the range of colour schemes carried by individual
01202 586848 Swifts that was squeezed out of June issue when we ran out of pages.
Email: [email protected] GUILD OF AVIATION ARTISTS ANNUAL EXHIBITION
One of the most enjoyable aviation orientated events that the job of
SUBSCRIPTIONS: Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Editor takes me to each year is the Guild of Aviation Artists’ “Aviation
Painting of the Year” show, which takes place this year
Lane, Totternhoe,
July 9th - 15th, as previously at The Mall Galleries, near
Beds, LU6 1QX. Admiralty Arch, St. James’, London SW1A 2BN.
Tel. 01525 222573. Building model aircraft is an acquired skill; drawing or
painting pictures of aviation scenes really is something
else and GAVA’s annual event draws together the very
PRINTING: Buxton Press Ltd., best of the best. This year there will be
388 original works of art on display from 122 different
(c) Copyright Flying Scale Models artists, at the Guild’s 48th Open Annual Exhibition This is
2018 Doolittle Media. the premier event (the largest of its kind in the world) for
wholly original works of aviation art, each the result of
meticulous observation or careful research of aircraft, events,
The paper used on this title is from personalities and historical achievements blended with artistic skills in
sustainable forestry land, sea and skyscapes.
As this year is the centenary year of the
RAF, expect to see more iconic
representations of both well-known and
not so well known RAF subjects.
All eras of aviation will be represented,
from the earliest hot air balloons through
to current airliners and combat aircraft
from the world’s air forces.
The Exhibition will be open to the
public from July 10th to 15th.
GLOSTER
GAMECOCK Mk.1
A 1:6th scale 59.6” (1512mm) wingspan model of one of the Royal Air Force's earlier post
WW-1 fighter aircraft, designed by GORDON WHITEHEAD
I
built my first Gloster Gamecock me want to build a larger example, with combined with the brilliant and colorful
model back in 1967. It was my first fully functioning controls. squadron markings of the period,
attempt at R/C Scale, was Elfin 1.49 Harry Folland, Gloster’s chief designer of produce an air of extrovert gaiety
compression ignition diesel powered, the 1920s and ’30s, certainly had an eye equaled by very few other aircraft.
36” wingspan and steered by single for style - he was responsible for the SE5a Developed from the Gloster Grebe, the
channel radio. Once trimmed out, it was and Gladiator designs. The stocky, Gamecock served with numbers 3, 17,
a great fun flyer and thereafter made purposeful lines of the Gamecock, 23, 32 and 43 squadrons, and saw front
1 2
1: Wing interplane struts, showing the lower wing attachment points and rigging. 2: Further views of the interplane struts, showing the
dummy pitot head attached to the left front strut. 3: Front view showing the centre section upper-wing-to-fuselage struts and the dummy
fuel tanks on the upper wing underside.
line. My prototype model represents that the RAF’s premier aerobatic aircraft, and Build both sets of wings as the first stage
of the then Sqn. Ldr. R. Collishaw, C.O. of featured at many air pageants and of the airframe construction, because
23 Sqn. The outline and shape of this shows, piloted by such men as the (then) these major airframe components will,
model is the result of much effort and PIt. Off. Douglas Bader who was serving later, be required to aid fuselage
careful revision before construction with 23 Sqn. at the time. construction. Study the drawings and cut
commenced, and I re-drew all the However, that’s enough about the full- out all the parts first - construction is
outlines twice before I was satisfied - size; I hope that I’ve kindled your interest. much less of a chore when you make
photos often display significant I found that reading about the yourself a pre-cut kit.
differences from published scale three- Gamecock is habit-forming, so unless you Pre-assemble all the laminated parts at
view drawings! really want a ...... span, highly colored, this stage. The lower spars are pinned
Most written accounts of the crowd-pulling, excitingly aerobatic scale down with 1/8” packing underneath,
Gamecock highlight the handling biplane; turn to another article quickly! together with the trailing edge. Ribs are
characteristics of the aircraft. It was glued in place; followed by leading
highly aerobatic, tricky in a spin, and had CONSTRUCTION edge riblets, top spars, aileron spars,
a tendency to suffer from wing flutter at In general, the structure is quite aileron ribs and tips. The 1/32” ply spar
high speed! The latter two characteristics straightforward, and most of the finer webs and the Warren-type bracing are
are enough to put anyone off making a points are detailed on the two-sheet important for rigidity, so don’t forget
model Gamecock, but in the end, no plan. Although the model is only them. The top wings are joined at the
such problems. were encountered with recommended for the more experienced centre using alloy strip epoxied in place.
the model. builder and flier, any scale fan will want Besides bracing this area, the metal
First, model structures are inherently to start building the relatively more prevents the centre section strut
stronger than the full-size, so minimizing complex subjects eventually, so I intend assembly locating studs from splintering
the flutter problem. Second, the model to cover the subject pretty the wood fairings in the event of a
displays a marked reluctance to spin. comprehensively. The majority of the cartwheel. The central’ bolts only locate
Even so, Is never let one develop, just to woodwork was assembled with PVA white the wing and do not tie it down; these
be on the safe side! glue, but five-minute and 24-hour epoxy are vital for correct wing alignment.
The Gamecock represented a turning was also used where appropriate, as was Install all blind nuts and make up the
point in fighter design. It was the last all- contact glue. interplane struts exactly as shown on the
wood RAF fighter, and the first with plan. You’ll need these for centre section
sufficient power to perform a 360degree WINGS strut alignment, and I do not subscribe to
upward roll with enough steam left to be The plan wing sheet shows both left and the view that interplane struts should be
pushed over the top. In its time, it was right panels for upper and lower wings. individually tailor-made to each position.
Two sets of struts of unmatched lengths building sequence. Assemble the basic struts to shape and drill holes. The bottom
will merely support the wing in a state of sides from strip and 3/16” sheet. Contact holes can be slotted to ease adjustment.
misalignment. The outer vee-struts are not glue the 1/16” ply doublers in place, Loosely bolt the inverted-vees to the
structural members on this model followed by the 1/8” ply strut supporting basic fuselage and bolt the diagonals in
(although they were necessary on the doublers. Carefully position and glue the place. Slide the lower wing into place
full-size because of the large wing tip 3/32” ply root facing rib. Join the sides and plug the top wing into the centre
overhang), so they can be tailor-made. squarely with F1, F3, F3B, F5a and a cross- section strut studs, then bolt the
brace at F5. Join the sternpost and add interplane struts.
FUSELAGE the remaining cross-braces. Epoxy the Check to ensure that the wings are
The most difficult part is the centre lower wing attachment tubes in place. square with the fuselage by measuring
section strut assembly area. Make a pre- Now for that centre section strut from wing tips to fuselage sternpost.
cut kit once again, to smooth the assembly. Start by bending the basic wire Ensure correct incidence on the top
CONSTRUCTION
4 6
4: Removal of fuselage underside centre section hatch reveals the fuel tank installation. 5: View from the rear shows the centre section
struts arrangement and lower wing-to-fuselage fillet fairing. Note also the cockpit mounting stirrups. 6: Upper wing lifted from its anchor
points , showing the wing struts, dummy engine and underwing fuel tanks.
7 8
7 & 8: Details of the centre section wing support struts and the cockpit windscreen:
cutting the metal, make paper templates you’ve just hacked into your pride and vees will pass through neatly - see photos.
of all panels to be simulated (see FSM joy, all will be well! To check this, you’ll have to engage the
April ’08 Issue pages 16-21) for the Add the wings and interplane struts and vee struts in the slots and lower the lot into
technique.) Now take the inverted vee check that you can align them as before. place all at once. When satisfied it’s right,
centre section strut structure made Also check that you can bolt up the outer cut the metal to size and check it for fit as
previously, together with its outer struts. centre section struts to the wings without just described. Remove the lot again arid
Cut away the top decking to allow the straining anything. All okay? Now remove smear contact glue around the outer
insertion of the centre section strut the lot and take the paper template that edges of the metal and around the outer
assembly and bolt the latter in place. you made for the decking. By trial and perimeter of the area to be covered.
Don’t worry about the unsightly holes error, slot the template so that the strut Lower away and press the paneling
CONSTRUCTION
9 11 12
10
9, 10, 11 & 12: Engine bay showing the10cc. (0.60 cu.in.) size engine and the battery for the airborne control system. The dummy engine
attaches to the firewall.
13 14
13 & 14: Complete tailcone, showing the wire tailplane-to-fin bracing wires. Note also the detail of the line of the eyelitted draw-cords that
secure the fabric access panel on the rear fuselage under the fin.
15 16
15: Front fuselage underside, showing the main undercarriage and inverted mounted engine. 16: The tailskid mounted to the lower
fuselage tailpost.
torque, slipstream and adverse yaw force the skid onto the ground and she’ll clean. Just before my flight, I tank up and
effect of the ailerons seem to gang up to soon slow up. screw the plug in.
make the model reluctant to turn right, The procedure just outlined is not really Turn the prop to open the shaft valve
and at first the effect feels rather odd. complicated, but don’t tangle your and squirt a jet of fuel up the carb and
Application of about ten degrees of right fingers up with the sticks! The model is flick six times to distribute the fuel. I
bank and pulling a little up elevator just very forgiving in all flight regimes. On one connect up the battery and one flick starts
doesn’t turn her, but by feeding in some occasion there was a 15-20 kt. wind her - it never fails! With a warm engine, just
rudder, around she goes nice as you blowing and when coming in to land, I prime and flick, connect up and she’ll fire.
please. Perhaps she’d be better turning got her to the edge of the landing circle Full-size engine mechanics used to ‘drain
on rudder-elevator? and the wind gusted and stopped her in the bottom cylinder’ of radials before
The adverse yaw effect is well known in mid-air! She was hovering 4 ft. up! I starting up, so I do the same.
full-size flying circles, but I had never met opened the throttle and up she went -
it on a model before. Any inherent turn vertically. I closed the throttle and she CONCLUSION,
either way should be trimmed out with remained there. Gradually, by co- I hope you’ve enjoyed the foregoing and
aileron, not rudder. ordinating throttle and elevator, I coaxed I hope I’ve covered everything, which will
Aerobatics with the Gamecock are a her down, vertically, but missed the enable the reader to make a successful
joy to behold. The sun glistens on the silver landing circle. model of one of the most appealing
dope finish - the squadron markings are Yep! She sure is stable. The whole- aircraft ever to be flown by the Royal Air
gaily flaunted like banners and the wires evolution lasted less than15 seconds, but Force. If I seem to have dwelt on bad
sing as she performs almost any evolution seemed like a lifetime. points, that’s because I had a lot of flying
you wish. Just one more hint. Ever had difficulties with this model, and I want to give you
Now for the landing. Throttle back and starting inverted engines? This is what I the benefit of my experiences. It might
note how slowly she loses height. The do. I remove the glowplug and squirt even help you when designing your own
square circuit landing approach needs to neat fuel up into the head and up scale biplane. (How about a Siemans-
be surprisingly large and the final turn through the carb. I then crank the engine Schuckert D.IV? That’s even more stubby
onto the glide path will be quite a long to free her and clean out all the than the Gamecock!)
distance away. At touchdown, flare out accumulated oil and juice. I sometimes I’m not a masochist, but if the model
and as she touches, give a blip on the even poke a rolled tissue up the plug hole was devoid of idiosyncrasies, it just
throttle to force the tail down. Keep a to soak up the liquid. Then I squirt the wouldn’t be as interesting! Don’t you
small amount of power on to maintain plug, and get all the oil off that, then agree? I
airflow over the tail, keep up elevator to finally connecting the battery to ‘burn’ it
2
SCALE TECHNIQUE
THE
BRISTOL
JUPITER ENGINE
WITHOUT A FULLY DETAILED DUMMY ENGINE, ANY MODEL OF THE GLOSTER GAMECOCK WILL
LOOK NOTHING LIKE RIGHT!
O
ne prominent feature that is inescapable when The drawings here are to 1/12th scale - so just enlarge to twice
modelling Gordon Whitehead’s 1/6th scale Gloster size. The photos shown are of the engine installed in the Jet Age
Gamecock, is the Bristol Jupiter engine. It absolutely Museum’s replica aircraft, but the engine is a genuine Jupiter, on
dominates the front end of the aircraft! So a fully loan from the Royal Air Force Museum. I
detailed dummy engine is essential.
5 6
1: PLUMBER’S NIGHTMARE? View from lower right showing just how the exhaust piping and central collector ring dominate the appearance of
the Bristol Jupiter engine. 2: Close-up of the exhaust and inlet pipes from cyliners to collector 0n the lower engine cylinders, viewed on the left
side. 3: Cylinder close-up. 4: View of the engine from the left side. Note the drive dog on the front centre of the spinner for attachment to the
Huchs Starter. 5: One of the upper cylinders, viewed from the right hand side. 6: Engine cylinders, viewed from the rear.
Bristol Jupiter Mk.XFBM with twin exhaust pipes and exhaust collector. jupiter VIIF installation in in Bristol Bulldog,
showing downstream head fairings and Y-
Pipes to front exhaust collector.
SCALE 1:12
jupiter VIa as used in Bristol Bulldog 2 with
direct drive valve gear covered and with
Y-Pipes to front exhaust collector.
TYPE HISTORY
An SE5a on steroids!
GLOSTER
GAMECOCK
This pugnacious looking little biplane fighter epitomised the ‘best flying club in the World’ that was the
Royal Air Force of the 1920s and early 1930s
O
ne of the most inevitable seriously overstretched financially, while decade immediately after WW2, Britain’s
consequences of all-out war WW2 left the country stoney broke for the front line fighter defences relied on jet
is the inescapable cost to all following two decades. aircraft that had been developed during
participants, winners or In such circumstances, military spending the war, in stark contrast to USA where all
losers. WW1 left Great Britain is one of the first casualties. During the sorts of new avenues were explored in
developing new and progressively higher Snipe and indeed by 1920 the
performance fighters. Thus, by the time metropolitan aerial defence of the British
the Royal Air Force was deploying its first Isles wrested on just one squadron of
generation of swept-wing transonic Snipes!
fighters, the USAF was preparing to Hindsight is, or course, a wonderfully
progress to the truly supersonic-in-level- accurate thing, but it has to be said that
flight F-100 Super Sabre. It’s all a matter of at the time of this headlong drive for
money and will. disarmament, there was no perceived
In the immediate post-WW1 years, it was threat to the Britain and its far-flung
difficult to perceive from where a military empire.
threat might come. Germany was laid
low, riven by internal political strife, while NEW LAMPS FOR OLD?
in Great Britain’s overseas empire, the So thoughts of fighter re-equipment did
imperial authority was as yet not begin until well into the 1920s, when
unchallenged by demands for ‘self the RAF drew up a number of
determination’ that emerged after WW2. specifications that eventually resulted in
Two views of the Gloster Aircraft
Thus, the notion of the ‘Ten Year Rule’, the Armstrong Whitworth Siskin and the Company’s demonstrator Gamecock
which held that no new military threat was Gloster Grebe, the latter entering service G-EBNT.
likely for the next decade, was the with 111 Squadron in late 1923.
touchstone which led to the drastic The Grebe, designed by H.P.Folland, had
denuding of British military forces and, in ancestry in the SE5a via other Gloster
particular, the newly formed Royal Air types including ‘Mars’ and ‘Grouse’, built
Force. The problem was that the ‘Ten Year only for export which, like its famous
Rule’ always seemed to recommence forbear, had an all-wood airframe and
from the date that every successive mounted nothing more lethal than twin,
politician invoked it. forward-firing machine guns. It is also an
In the immediate aftermath of WW1, interesting commentary on aircraft
when thousands of combat aircraft were development at the time, to note that the
bonfired, the standard fighter aircraft of 32 mph speed increase offered over the worthwhile advantage!
the R.A.F. was the late-WW1era Sopwith Sopwith Snipe was regarded as a At the time, one of the major problems
were deficiencies in the 14-cylinder
Armstrong Siddeley Jaguar radial engine
then powering both Siskin and Grebe,
which were so serious that squadron
strength was regularly reduced to only
20% of aircraft on charge.
A BIT OF A HANDFUL
The Gamecock needed care in handling.
Four were crashed in the first year of
service and a further 18 in 1927, a large
number of these being the result of
spinning and landing accidents, and in
one case, due to aircraft break-up in the
air. Wing flutter was one problem that
caused concern, which prompted the
prompted the introduction of extra
stiffener struts outboard of the interplane
struts.
Nonetheless, after years of operating
war-weary Sopwith Snipes, the
Gamecock was a welcome breath of
fresh air which, subject to experienced
handling, proved to be a good aircraft
for aerobatics. But right-hand turn spins
were specifically banned to Service pilots.
In certain situations, aileron flutter was a problem with the Gamecock. This one has been
experimentally fitted with narrow chord ailerons that feature a trailing edge in line with the GAMECOCK MK.II
rest of the wing tailing edges, for anti-flutter trials during 1927
In an attempt to prolong the demand for
the type, Glosters produced a revised
version of the basic Gamecock, featuring
a larger rudder and narrow-chord
ailerons, acquired as a prototype for
evaluation by the R.A.F. in early 1928. It
displayed markedly better handling
characteristics, but no follow-on orders
were generated.
In the export field though, the
Gamecock gained interest from Finland.
After demo flights in UK, two pattern
examples were shipped to Helsinki prior to
licence construction in that country.
The Gamecock also saw service with
the Imperial Japanese Naval Air Force,
built under licence as the Nakajima Type
3, where the type was used in action
during the ‘Shanghai Incident’ of 1932
Another experiment applied to the Gamecock was the installation of a Hele-Shaw variable pitch and early stages of the second Sino
propeller, during 1929. The much enlarged spinner that covering the mechanism adds a much Japanese war from 1937.
more streamlined appearance. Louvres on the spinner were applied to cool the bearings.
CURTSAIN CALL
Operational service for the Gamecock
Mk.1 in R.A.F. service ended when No. 23
Squadron re-equipped with Bristol
Bulldogs in July 1931 and the type was
officially declared obsolete in 1933.I
SPECIFICATION
Length: 19 ft 8 in (5.99 m)
Wingspan: 29 ft 91/2 in (9.07 m)
Height: 9 ft 8 in (2.94 m)
Wing area: 264 ft2 (24.52 m2)
Powerplant: Bristol Jupiter VI 9-cylinder
radial, 425 hp (317 kW)
PERFORMANCE
Maximum speed: 155 mph (135 knots,
250 km/h) at 5,000 ft (1,520 m), 145
mph (126 knots, 233 km/h) at 10,000 ft
(3,050 m)
Range: 365 mi (316 NM, 587 km)
Service ceiling: 22,100 ft (6,735 m)
Rate of climb: 7,066 ft/min (36 m/s) at
GAMECOCK ANATOMY. Detail of the fuselage 1,000 ft (305 m)
airframe internals; the aircraft carried oxygen Climb to 10,000 ft (3050 m): 7.6 min
cylinders for higher altitude operation and carried
radio communication equipment, but beyond that, is
Endurance: 2.5 hours
very much WW1era technology.
ARMAMENT
Guns: 2x 0.303 inch (7.7mm) Vickers
machine guns
Gamecock J.8037 of the second production batch ordered in July 1926 carrying the
black and white squares of No. 43 Squadron based at Tangmere in1929.
GLOSTER
GAMECOCK
There are no genuine Gamecocks any longer (appart from a fuselage hunk in Finland) but the Jet Age
Museum at Gloucester has a replica the provides all the detail a modeller could possibly need.
GAMECOCK ANATOMY:
1
1: The full size replica at the Jet Age Museim, Gloucester, was built for pieced-together
works drawings. Part of the airframe is left without covering.
4 9
2: Gun trough, left fuselage side behind the Bristol Jupiter engine. 3: Gun trough, right fuselage
side, showing dummy gun. 4: Access hatch immediately behind the cockpit, left side. 5: Radio
aerial insulator terminal, just behind the access hatch, top of fuselage. 6: Rear fuselage,
6 showing the lacing of the fabric access cover. Note also fin-to-tailplane brace wire and hole,
to accommodate tailplane incidence adjustment. 7: Rear fuselage sub-fin. Note wire barce to
tailplane underside. 8: The centre section struts (call them ‘cabane’ if you must) viewed from
the left side. 9: Centre section struts viewed from right. Note the fuel line from the fuel tank
mounted on the upper wing. 10 & 11: Two views of the sprung tailskid.
10 11
14 15
16 12: The flat cockpit windscreen, viewed from the front: 13: Windscreen viewed from the rear.
14 & 15: Front of fuselage, showing prominient exhaust pipe and wind-driven generator on lower left
wing. Latter also present of lower right wing. 16: Oil cooler mounted under the centre fuselage
between the lower wing panels, viewed from left. 17 & 18: Two further views of the oil cooler, viewed
from the right. 19: Rudder control horn. 20: Top of fin, showing the radio aerial attachment. 21: Detail
of typical rudder hinge. 22: Tail light unit. 23: Tailplane/elevator, showing the elevator hinges.
24: Close-up of elevator horn. One of the rudder hinges also shown. 25:Tailplane/elevator underside.
27: Further view of the wire barce between the tailplane and sub-fin.
19 20 21 22
17
23 25 26
18
24
30 31 32
36 37
38
35
39
41
42 47 48
43
44 49
54 55 56
57 59
SAII KZ.III
Try rubber power free flight scale with this 19.5 inch span model of
the Danish light aircraft designed by J. A. Fleming.
LAEKE
31 feet 6 inches, it is 21 feet 7 inches long and
cruises at 106 m.p.h. Full load take off run of this
two-seater is 77 yards with a landing run of 55
yards.
full-span fixed slats and the large slotted flaps that produce a In Switzerland a KZ.III was regularly flown on skis and at least
gentle stall and landing speed as slow as 34 m.p.h. It is one was converted for twin-floatplane configuration for
interesting to recall that, when the prototype had been fitted as operation from water, in which guise it proved eminently useful in
a glider tug, the glider stalled before the Laerke towing it! communications tasks with outlying Danish islands.
Powerplant was the 90 h.p. Blackburn Cirrus Minor II engine
driving a two-bladed wooden propeller. Colour
A larger version of the Laerke, the American Continental C125 Larks are doped to owner’s taste and specimens seen in the
flat-six-powered KZ.VII superseded the KZ.III in production for military United Kingdom have been bright red all over, silver and cream
as well as civil use, but not before the Laerke had spread with black, black and green, and green and blue lettering
throughout Scandinavia and as far afield as Malaysia and Australia. respectively. I
FACING PAGE:
All these photos, including
the cockpit interior close-up
are of the later Coninental
125 hp powered KZ VII and
include both civilian
registered and Danish
military examples.
F R E E
G I F T WO R T H
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SCALE SOARING Chris describes his revised wing construction for two-piece gull wings
was a little too refined in comparison with
the more basic abilities of the actual
troop carriers such as the Waco, but they
did the job that was required of them).
Some years ago, clubmate Colin Cousins
built models of both the TG-2 and the TG-
3 to one-quarter scale. When my pal
Motley (A.K.A. Geoff Crew) spotted the
TG-3 at an aerotow event, want-itis set in,
and he squared himself up to build one at
1:3.5 scale, as shown in a previous
column. After all the hassle of a house
move, it became time again to look for a
project, and, with a little prompting from
me, he decided to produce a TG-2 as a
stablemate. All too soon, it was time for
the maiden flight, which duly took place
at the County Models Flying Club’s
peerless site, near Shaftesbury in Dorset.
Taken up behind our pal Smallpiece’s
tug (A.K.A. Barry Cole), this important
event took place without undue incident,
Geoff Crew with his Schweizer collection (TG-2 in the foreground) and it has to be said that the two models
together make a fine spectacle.
he TG-2 was first envisaged, in could be used. Since the US Army had no Hopefully, the prevailing slope-unfriendly
With the sub spars added, the wing spar is now an H-beam One piece gull-wing!
BUILDING A BETTER MOUSETRAP spar flat over the plan and add the ribs,
I have been building gull-winged models leading edge, and trailing edge etc.
for most of my adult life, and until recently Now, raise one side of the wing on “ By now, I had
the procedure has always been the tapered jigging supports and add the top
same. The inner and outer panels are built spar. Then, add the ply webbing plates to realised that one of the
separately, and then jigged into the the front of the spar, and add the sub-
correct position with the spars spliced, spar in front of the plates after first cutting un-recognised benefits
joined and then reinforced. As this is not out the appropriate notches. (Sounds a
the way the full-size had their wings built, I like a faff, but is a really simple of smaller models, is
have endured a certain amount of procedure). What you end up with is a
criticism from the ‘Scale Police’ over the dihedralled wing with a classic H-beam that they will fit neatly
years, even to the point of once spending spar, an engineer’s delight, and a very
a night in a Scale Police cell! (The food strong and light structure. in between the larger
Next up, came the 1/5th scale version of
was terrible).
Full size glider gull wings have a relatively the Wolf, and then it was time to think of
models in the hangar,
the next project. By now, I had realised
smooth transition from one plane to the
other, rather than the more abrupt that one of the un-recognised benefits of
thus maximising all of
transition in my wings, but I considered it a smaller models, is that they will fit neatly in
between the larger models in the hangar,
the available space! ”
minor point, pertinent only to the purist.
Enter the Micro Wolf, recently described. thus maximising all of the available space!
At this size, a one-piece wing seemed I opted to build a 1/5th scale version of
sensible, both to simplify construction, and the iconic Slingsby Petrel, and of course,
to save weight. As the Wolf has no this has a gull wing.
dihedral, it was a simple enough matter, After more cogitation, and more Falling
and the job proceeded without a hitch. Down Water, a plan emerged to build the
Next up, the 1/7th scale Gull 4: once more perfect gull-wing, enabling in one fell
a one-piece wing, but this time with swoop to simplify, safe weight, and stay
dihedral. After some heavy cogitation out of ‘Scale Prison’.
and the imbibing of a suitable amount of The wings will be separate this time, but
Falling Down Water, the following as with the Gull 4 wing, the initial build is
procedure suggested itself; lay the lower flat over the plan. Once again, the wing is
then set up on the tapered jigging true. The resultant wing is strong, light (8ozs
supports, the top 3mm sq. spar added, without servos!) and has a perfectly
followed by the webbing plates and the seamless gull transition. It remains to be
sub spars. Compared with gull-wings on seen if this version of the Petrel will live up
my larger models, this is simplicity itself, but to my expectations...
it gets better. As the Petrel has less
anhedral than many other gliders of its A BIGGER WOLF
type, it has proved possible to sheet the As described last time around,
wing in balsa without a join at compound the 1/5th scale version of the
curve at the gull break. This is helped by Wolf was ready to be
wetting up the balsa at the break area covered and painted.
when taping the top sheeting into place. Smaller models have
As this is the final procedure that locks the issue that the
the wing into its final shape, the structure AUW is more
is placed on shaped transverse jigging critical than
supports that ensure that it is straight and their larger
The 1/5th scale version along with the 1:3.5 scale Petrel Author before the Wolf’s maiden flight
CESSNA 165
An 18" span 'micro' model for electric power and three function control. Designed by Peter Rake,
with the prototype model built by Phillip Artweger
could take up their straight taper from the the same incidence angle. Because the
T
his design came about for two, not
particularly related reasons. Firstly, correct point and the resulting fuselage holes for the pegs must be accurately
because I was drawing up some shape was much more in keeping with the positioned, I strongly recommend that you
more micro models and needed a slim appearance of the original. The purchase the set of laser cut parts the
suitable subject, and secondly added advantage of this is that the publisher is offering.
because I’d never been totally happy simple wing mounting can be retained Equal dihedral on both wings is set up by
with the fuselage shape of the model’s without the fuselage becoming bloated the spar extensions being glued securely
larger sister. At the time, I’d attempted to looking behind the wing. to the F4/F4A assembly. F4 gives them a
keep the wing fixing simple to assist The way the model is set up is such that secure mount, while F4A ensures that the
potential builders, but it just resulted in a the mounting of the wings sets both dihedral is correct. Naturally enough, this
fuselage that looked too fat. incidence and dihedral pretty much does require the assembly in question to
Whilst perusing the drawings, the automatically. The little pegs you see are be accurately fitted into the fuselage,
solution suddenly leapt out at me. As long not intended to be load bearing, they and glued securely in place.
as there was a fill-piece between the wing simply ensure (given a square fuselage While we’re discussing the set up of the
mount sections of fuselage, the longerons assembly) that both wings MUST go on at model, please note that the tailplane
Pretty as a picture, Phillip's 165 is all set for the off. After the tree incident, the registrations never quite made it.
The initial bare bones shot reveals that there is nothing unduly With all the parts covered and ready for assembly you can clearly
complicated about this model. see the improved forward cabin on Phillip’s model.
The initial formers and radio tray fixed to one fuselage side and The official naked model shot with just about everything in place.
the basic wing assemblies dry while pinned to the board.
does NOT follow the line of the top control linkages (lightweight snakes, wood important because the little linear servos
longeron. It is at zero degrees to the and wire pushrods, etc) I invariably use on the receiver brick aren’t the strongest
datum line. Careful positioning of parts 1mm carbon rod with Z-bend wire ends imaginable. It doesn’t take much to stall
FA2 and FS3 (the tops of which are not as secured using heat shrink tube and a spot them and cause burning out of the ‘fetts’.
flat as they at first appear) into the rear of CA. It’s about the lightest, and easiest- For the same reason, it is vitally important
fuselage side frames will ensure that the to-install system I’ve come across to date. that no glue, or specs of grit, get into the
tailplane does actually end up at the To make it even easier to install, I like to servo gears.
correct angle. get as much of the fuselage covered as After puncturing the covering in more
A simple check for this is to fit the wings possible, just leaving the bottom rear than one place while trying to install
first and then strap some strip wood to open, before fitting the receiver. Then, correct length pushrods, I very quickly
their lower surface (rubber band), using pushrods that only have the receiver devised a better way of doing things. Not
extending back to the tailplane. The end Z-bend in place, and are well over only is it a damn sight more difficult, it’s
tailplane should be at minus one degree length, slip the whole assembly in through also fraught with potential disaster for your
to those strips. the open lower rear fuselage. By having neatly applied covering.
one pushrod considerably longer than the
EQUIPMENT other, the longer one can be threaded COVERING
The equipment shown on the plan consists through its exit plate (FS2/FS3) before the There are numerous covering options, but
of a PZ P-51 motor unit and a Vapor style second pushrod gets even close to probably the two most suitable for models
receiver. Whilst the model is set up for anywhere that it might puncture the of this kind are lightweight covering film or
those particular items, any similar receiver covering while you struggle getting the the ‘traditional aeromodelling’ route of
and geared 8.5 mm unit will work equally first one through the slot. Once both doped tissue. To my mind the latter option
well. You could even use a small brushless pushrods are in place, the receiver can has its advantages. Although probably
outrunner but, as with any alternative be glued (Uhu Por) in position on RT. not quite as puncture resistant as a film
equipment, some of the parts will require Having the pushrods already in position covering (even though lightweight films
either replacement, or modification to will allow you to position the receiver so do still puncture fairly easily), I like it
accommodate said equipment. that there is no binding where the because of the finishing options. Whilst the
Whilst virtually anything CAN be used for pushrods exit the fuselage. This is finish takes paint well, masking can be
Phillip opted for a lighter, built up hatch rather than one from With the basic front fuselage box assembled you can see how
block balsa. easy it is to laminate the tailplane outline.
troublesome and always entails the risk to accurately align the panels before shrinking can be used, but you need to
that upon removal, the masking will tear applying the dope. Glue sticks can also avoid getting any water droplets actually
the tissue. be used, but that does make accurate on the covering.
A good alternative is to use tissue-over- alignment more difficult because they If, on the other hand, your printer uses
tissue to provide the colour trim. However, tend to ‘grab’ almost instantly. pigment ink (waterproof), your options for
my personal favourite would be to use Although I haven’t tried it myself, I know applying the tissue to the model open up
printed tissue. Although it takes a while to other modellers have a particular method quite considerably. Wet covering, using
get all the graphics prepared (assuming of using a glue stick as adhesive and as dope as an adhesive, works well and
you have the equipment), all your lines will an aid for getting panels to align allows the panels to be teased into place
be perfectly straight and it adds accurately. The method here, is to apply accurately and (hopefully) wrinkle free
absolutely no measurable weight so things glue stick to both the airframe and the before the dope is applied. Tissue paste
like scale details and registrations can be tissue, allow it to dry for about an hour (or thinned PVA) also works well for tissue
included in the graphics and such details and then use a trim iron to attach the applied dry, and allows for very precise
don’t need to be added later. tissue exactly as if it were a covering film. alignment and wrinkle removal prior to
How you apply your printed tissue will Because it doesn’t grab until you apply water shrinking. Naturally, glue stick can
depend on what type of ink your printer the heat, alignment can be as accurate also be used and, if the alignment doesn’t
uses. Obviously, if it’s a dye type ink (not as you care to make it and the tissue can need to be too precise, can even be
waterproof) you want to avoid anything be pulled taut so that the panels can be used to cover wet and still stick well.
that contains water, so tissue paste and applied reasonably wrinkle free.
thinned PVA are definitely out. The Above all, remember that water THE MODEL
traditional method of doping the tissue shrinking isn’t really an option because the So, having pretty much covered any
onto the model works well and allows you ink will run. Careful (very careful) steam points of which you need to be aware,
Yes, that is a real runway the model sits on. Phillip is a pilot in real life too.
FUSELAGE
As you can see from the photos of Phillip’s model, the fuselage is
built as two distinct sections. There is a relatively substantial, sheet
sided, forward section that will support the motor, radio gear and
wing mounting, plus a much lighter, rear box girder that is attached
after both sub-assemblies are pretty much complete.
There’s nothing really complicated about either fuselage sub-
section, and it certainly shouldn’t need a ‘stick-A-to-B’ type
CESSNA
discourse. If you can’t build a structure as simple as this without step-
by -tep instructions, this model probably isn’t for you.
The main points to watch, involve the alignment of parts. Some
were highlighted above, but the most important ones are that you
165
Get straight down to construction without delay!
ensure all sub-assemblies are perfectly square and that the tailplane This month’s full size free plan feature is supported
seat ends up at the correct angle, relative to the wings. On Phillip’s
by a laser-cut set of ready-to-use balsa and
first model (he’s currently building a second one), the tailplane
somehow ended up following the line of the top longeron, resulting plywood components. This provides the parts that,
in the need for quite a bit of up elevator trim. otherwise, you would need to trace out onto the
One thing I can see I’ve got wrong on the plan is the size of part X. wood before cutting out and includes wing ribs
It should have 1/16 inch trimmed off each side and fit BETWEEN the and tips, tail centre parts, fuselage
top longerons, not on top of them as the plan appears to show. The doublers, top deck,formers etc.
top longeron extends to the rear edge of ‘X’.
As you’ll see from the photos, Phillip had added a more scale
IT DOES NOT INCLUDE STRIP
looking front section to the cabin, between the wings which is Not
AND SHEET MATERIAL OR
essential by any means, but it does add an awful lot to the SHAPED WIRE PARTS
appearance of the model.
TAIL SURFACES
Price £14.00
plus carriage: £11.50 (UK); Europe £26.00
Apart from the laminated outlines, the tail surfaces really couldn’t be
much easier to build. Although feared by many who have never
tried them, laminated outlines are both lighter and stronger than
Order set CUT/FSM539
Shipping Note: For shipping to destinations outside the UK and
outlines built up from cut pieces of sheet balsa - as in many rubber
Europe, you will be charged our standard flat-rate price of £49.
power kits. The result is a much more rigid structure that weighs less
This covers most destinations and secures your order with us.
and is less inclined to warp as the covering is shrunk. The fact that it’s However, we will contact you accordingly with an accurate
easier to simply glue three soggy strips together and shape them total shipping charge prior to dispatch and either issue a
around a template than it is to get accurate joints in a built up tail refund or a PayPal money request for the balance.
outline is just an added bonus.
Visit our secure website:
WINGS www.flyingscalemodels.com
Just like the rest of this model, there’s nothing particularly arduous
involved in building the wings. Personally, I prefer to use the drawing to order yours
on the plan to mark the spar with the position and angle of the root
rib, but there are angle guides included for those among you who
prefer to use that method. Of cause, it also allows for those ‘belt-
and-braces’ types to use both methods as a double check.
I can’t emphasise too strongly the need to use at least bass for the
spars. Spruce would also be fine, but the grain in Obeche might lead
to warps because it tends to wander quite a bit. Since it’s the spars
that carry all the flying loads, it’s important that they are strong
enough to do exactly that. Wings that part company with the
fuselage at the first attempted loop are neither use nor ornament.
If you feel the wing tips may be on the heavy side as drawn, I
won’t be in the least offended if you use a lighter, laminated tip bow
and extended spar. Whichever you choose, the trailing edge will
need to be tapered in thickness to accommodate the tapering
nature of the wing ribs.
FLYING
I’m sure the eagle eyed amongst you will notice there are no flying
shots of this model. That is not down to laziness on Phillip’s part.
During the initial flights one of those sneaky trees leapt out and
smote his model to the ground. It was never the same model after
that, so no flying shots could subsequently be taken.
Apart from the need for a lot of up elevator trim due to the
incorrectly angled tailplane (not needed on the repaired and
rectified model), it was found that the model is quite sensitive to
rudder input. So, at least until you are completely familiar with the
model, keep rudder input small and ‘feel’ the model through turns.
Things tend to happen slowly at first, leading to the temptation to
use more rudder, and that’s when the problems start. Restricting the
amount of rudder throw available significantly reduces the possibility
of over enthusiasm getting you into trouble.
Since this is a cabin monoplane, not an aerobatic type, slow and
gentle looks far better anyway. Don’t use too much power, keep Order direct from:- Doolittle Media, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane,
control input gentle and simply enjoy watching the model stooge Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK. Tel: 01525 222573/
around. I [email protected].
De HAVILLAND
DH60 MOTH
Plan price £19.50 Plan No.054
Take the tedium out of building our Boeing PT-13 with this set of pre-
cision laser-cut wing ribs and fuselage formers. It takes the hard graft
out of preparation, while leaving all the fun of the building!
RTS
se laser-cut parts sets
to trace off the plan onto the wood and then tediously cut out prior
to commencing building! Basic strip and sheet wood not included.
Be ready to start building as soon as you unfold the plans!
Superb, true-to-scale 1/5th scale replica, features accurate out- Component Pack 1/4 £125.00
lines and rib-for-rib reproduction of the full size wing structure.63
ins. (1600mm) span model is of manageable size for transport and
offers realistic flight performance.For.60size motors and 4 function Component Pack 1/5 £120.00
radio.Glass fibre engine cowl available.
1/4 scale spans 82.5” (2095mm) for 30cc
(1.8 cu.in.) two stroke engines. 1/5th scale
spans 65.7/8 “ (1673mm) and suits 15.cc
(.90 cu.in.) four stroke engines. BE SURE TO
BRISTOL F2B ‘BRISFIT’ QUOTE SCALE REQUIRED WHEN ORDERING!
Plan price £24.50 1/4 Plan No.021, 1/5 Plan No. 023
DOOLITTLE MEDIA LTD, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, LU6 1QX, U.K.
Tel: 01525 222573 email: [email protected]
ORDER ON LINE: www.flyingscalemodels.com/plans/
GLOBE / TEMCO
GC-1B
SCALE 1:30
(NOT TO SCALE)
GLOBE SWIFT FLYING COLOURS
At the end of last month’s ‘Subjects for Scale’ feature, we ran out of pages, so here are just a few
of the many non-factory colour schemes carried among the many GC-1A and GC-1B Swifts
subsequent to cessation of production in 1951.
A RADIAL COWL
WITHOUT A MOULD
HERE'S A SIMPLE METHOD OF MAKING A COWL WITHOUT A LOT OF PREPARATORY EFFORT
F
or many modellers, one of the major obstacles when example, types that have compound curve radial cowls, like for
building a scale model is the engine cowl. Complex instance the Republic Thunderbolt, or Grumman Hellcat.
shapes often dictate recourse to glass fibre mouldings, However, for types that feature basically simple circular cowl
but not everyone has the skill to produce the necessary shapes, like the Hawker Sea Fury, Chance Vought Corsair (F4U-1
mould and, when all that’s required is a on-off, then the but not F4U-4), Hawker Tempest Mk.2 etc, it represents a quick
amount of effort and time necessary to make a mould and then route to a perfectly workable cowl unit.
the actual moulding is a considerable brake to progress with the Construction is basically a ring of rolled plywood, with balsa front
scale project in hand. fairing. Work begins by cutting three discs from corrugated
The technique shown here is by no means a universal answer to cardboard (or whatever you have to hand) to the appropriate
the problem of producing a radial type engine cowl, quite simply diameters, allowing for a final cowl wall thickness of 1/6” (1.5mm).
because some cowls are more “radial”, than others. For Assemble these on a cardboard tube as shown and apply
1 2
3 4
1: The basic jig, over which the cowl will be constructed is made up from a central cardboard tube and cardboard formers, all of which will
eventually be remnoved when the cowl in complete. 2: For either a constant diameter cowl, or with a symmetrical taper shape, make a pattern
from thin card to use as a cutting guide for cutting the plywood wrap-arround skin. 3: The cardboard former wiIh reinforcement strips tack
glued in plate, Cardboard gussets set the former rigs at right angles to the centre carrier tube in both axes. 4: The plywood shell is now wound
around the former and held in place with plenty of masking tape. Either two laminations of 1/32” (0.8mm) or one 1/16” (1.5mm). 5 & 6: Two
laminations of balsa sheet laid inside the plywood skin form the gluing key for the balsa front fairing. Grain should run across the strips, so the
strips will follow the contour of the front cowl rig easily. 7: Build up the front rim with balsa rings, applied in decending size from rear to front.
Note temporary front ring guide. 8: All the balsa rings of the front fairing are here in place. Centre core of the front ring is being used as a
centre reference. 9: Here the front fairing has been rough shaped to contour. Filler may be required between rings. The inside of the front fairing
must also be contoured, Re-inforce the front ring with glass fibre to toughen up.
supporting gussets. These must be at exact right angles, so as to here used 1/2” (12mm) thick material.
set the rings at right angles to the cardboard tube carrier. Unless Start by applying a thickness of balsa strip around the inside of
this right-angle is set up correctly, the two end discs, front and the leading edge of the plywood ring. Two or three laminations
rear, cannot be used as reference points for cutting the front and of 1/6” (1.5mm) balsa sheet about 1/2” (12mm) wide work well. It
rear of the plywood wrap-around to final shape and you risk will follow the curve easiest if the grain runs across the strip,
ending up with a mis-shaped cowl unit. otherwise, with the grain running the length of the strip, it may be
Next stage is to apply the longerons around the discs, tack necessary to soak the strip of hot water to take the curve line of
gluing with cyano. Eight are shown on the example here - 1/4” the cowl without snapping.
hard strip balsa will do. Having reached this stage, we have a Once this has set, it forms a gluing base for the 1/2” (12mm)
basic jig over which to wind the plywood cowl ring. balsa front rim rings. These are cut to shape in descending
Particularly in the case of a fully symetrical cowl that tapers, it is diameters towards the front, using a band saw or similar. The
advisable to cut a dummy template for the wrap-around balsa rings are applied ‘bread-and-butter’ fashion, each
plywood. Make this from thin card and then use it to mark out successive lamination being applied 90 degrees cross-grain to
the shape onto the plywood sheet. The example shown here was the last one.
made up using two laminations of 1/32” (O.8mm) ply, but for a A small cardboard ring at the extreme nose, cut to the exact
large diameter cowl at least, a single sheet of 1/16” (1.5mm) ply diameter of the front intake will help to ensure the symmetry of
would probably work at least as well and would be simpler. the whole assembly.
To apply the plywood skin, first check the fit and then tack-glue
one end over one of the balsa longerons using cyano glue and, if Shaping up
needed, also with accelerator spray. Re-check the accuracy of Once the front rings are firmly glued, the final shaping of the
the wrap-around and then roll back the ply sheet to add white nose can be done, fairing the inner and outer surfaces. A card
glue along all the longerons. The plywood wrap can then be template here will aid symmetry.
rolled back into place, fixing the end lip with cyano. Use masking
tape liberally to hold it all in place while the white glue dries. Toughen up
At this stage, you have a fully shaped cowl, but it should be
Got a nose for it ... remembered that, since the engine cowl area of a scale model
The shaped nose rim of the cowl is made from layered rings of tends to take a few knocks from time to time, with nose-overs for
soft balsa sheet, the thickness depending on the size of the cowl example, some toughening up process may be appropriate. Thin
being made. The 1/6th scale Hawker Sea Fury cowl example glass fibre cloth and resin works well for that purpose. I
7 8 9
Issue 223 - June 2018 Issue 222 - May 2018 Issue 221 - Apr 2018
Issue 220 - Mar 2018 Issue 219 - Feb 2017 Issue 218 - Jan 2018
Doolittle Media Ltd., Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, Great Britain
ight then, it’s time for more
CATCHING UP (again)
In case you missed the first two parts of
R/C SCALE ELECTRICS with this series, here’s a brief recap of what
was discussed. In the first part we took a
Peter Rake very broad view of the topic, including
looking at degrees of control; everything
from throttle only through to ‘full house’
control. However, for most of us three
EQUIPMENT
Moving swiftly along now (as swift as
A selection of suitable motors. 6mm from Nano Stik and Vapor, with a cheap 7 mm unit from anything gets in this column), let’s take a
China. look at some of the equipment you are
likely to be needing for these conversions.
Yes, I had worked out that it pretty much
depends on the size of model you are
actually converting. Do come on, even
I’m not that slow on the uptake. Close,
perhaps, but not QUITE that slow.
The very smallest rubber power models,
those with a class specified 9” maximum
wingspan are definitely best left to the
experts. Yes, they most certainly can be
converted, but it requires pretty
specialised radio gear to achieve that
feat. Tiny receivers, minuscule battery
packs, and probably home-made
magnetic actuators are the order of the
day; definitely not the sort of thing you
can just nip down to your local model
shop and buy.
A little larger (13” span) are Peanut class
models. As you can imagine, you do have
a little more scope with these. Vapor and
Mini Vapor style receiver ‘bricks’ will work,
but are still at the heavier end of what is
suitable. Realistically, you’re still looking at
very small motors and batteries coupled
with, probably, a DT receiver board and
micro actuators if slow-and-floaty is what
you’re aiming for. Obviously, lighter is
Typical equipment for Dime Scale size models. Vapor style receiver brick and 8.5 mm motor better but at least you are starting to get
unit. Just what’s shown on the free plans this month.
into the realms of more easily accessible
equipment that doesn’t always cost an
arm and a leg to buy. Somehow it always
seems counter intuitive to me to build
small, cheap models and then spend a
small (or not so small) fortune on the gear
to go in them.
Bostonian class models could also be
grouped in with this category. They’re a
little bigger at 16” span, but use very light
structures. So, unless you are totally
revising how the model is built, they need
to be kept light. They’re also, by-and-
large, extremely ‘cartoon scale’, so
probably won’t appeal too much to
those wanting a nice, but small, scale
model to flit about with.
Bigger still, at around 18” span, and
using structures that are much more in line
with the KeilKraft, Veron and Guillows kits
we butchered as youngsters, are the
Walnut and Dime Scale models. Not too
surprisingly, many of the Dime Scale
Just how simple installation of the Vapor brick can be. Carbon pushrods are more common offerings are of American origin. The
but wood works well enough.
KAISER Ka-8
MU13-D3 KAISER Ka6E
Plan price £24.50 Plan No.098
Plan price £20.00 Plan price £24.50 Plan No.220
Component Pack £125.00 Plan No.125
Component Pack £125.00
1/4 scale 147.6” (3750mm) wing span Class 1
Component Pack
scale model of the most popular Club glider. Very
docile and a joy to fly. Two large sheet plans. £125.00 1/4 scale 147.6” (3750mm) wing span model of a highly
elegant high performance sailplane. Two large plan sheets.
ASK-13
Plan price £24.50 Plan No.004
SF28A TANDEM FALKE OLYMPIA 2B (DFS MEISE)
Plan price £28.50 Plan No.176 Plan price £20.00 Plan No.139 Component Pack £135.00
Component Pack £140.00 Component Pack £145.00 147.6” (3750mm) span replica of the most popular club
two seater glider and trainer in Europe, with a first class
performance. Plans on two large sheets.
Two seat version of the 147.6” (3750mm) span of a really lovely soarer of the pre-glass fibre ‘hotship’
era. 1/4 scale model on two large plan sheets. 1/4 scale.
T61, scaled to 1:4 with
a wing span of 157.5”
(4000mm). For 60-.90
cu.in.motors.
T61 FALKE
ASK-18 GRUNNAU BABY Plan price £26.50 Plan No.223
Plan price £24.50 Plan No.006 Plan price £24.50 Plan No.83 Component Pack £135.00
Component Pack £130.00 Component Pack £125.00 A 1/4 scale model with a wing span of 147.6”
(3750mm). Suits 60-.90 cu.in.motors.
A superb example of the
A 1/4 scale 157.5”
machine which is the epitome of
(4000mm) span replica of one
pre-WW2 vintage open cockpit
of the best and most elegant
gliders. 1/4 scale model plans
pre-glass fibre era club single
133.5” (3390mm). Two sheet
seat sailplanes. A great flier.
plan.
Two sheet plans.
HUTTER H-17
Plan price £22.50 Plan No.081
DOOLITTLE MEDIA LTD, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, LU6 1QX, U.K.
Tel: 01525 222573 email: [email protected]
ORDER ON LINE: www.flyingscalemodels.com/plans/