Instruction Manual

Assembled By: Jonathan K

Before we Start...
● This drawing robot took around two weekends to build and to get to the first drawing. This will all vary with your
experience with 3D printing, GRBL, etc.
● Watch this video as inspiration to build your own: (Coming Eventually)
 Approximate cost for all the parts is $100

Parts List
Components Hardware

● (2) Nema 17 Stepper Motors Link ● Nuts

● (2) Linear Rod M8 x 450mm, X Axis ○ (7) M3-0.5
● (2) Linear Rod M8 x 350mm, Y Axis ○ (5) M4-0.7
○ Note: I purchased 4 Linear Rods ○ (4) 5/16in-18
that were longer, which I cut to ● Screws
length later Link ○ (13) Phillips M3-0.5 x 16mm
● (2) Linear Rod 3mm, Z Axis (CDROM) ○ (4) Phillips M3-0.5 x 6mm
● (1) Threaded Rod M8 x 470mm Link ○ (5) Phillips M4-0.7x 35mm
● (8) LM8UU Bearings or printed Link ○ (1) Hex M3-0.5 x 20mm
● (1) Servo Sg90 Link ● Washers
● (1) Spring Link ○ (4) 5/16in washer
● (2) GT2 Pulley, 16 teeth Link ○ (4) M3 washers
● (5) Bearing 624zz Link
● 2000mm GT2 belt Link
● (1) Arduino Uno Link
○ CNC Shield Link
○ (4) A4988 Stepper Drivers Link
○ (16) Jumpers Link
● (1) 12V 2A Power Supply Link
● (2-4) Limit switches (optional) Link
3D Printing
● To begin this project, start by downloading the files from Thingiverse: Link
● Open the 3D models in your slicer(Cura, Sli3er, Simplify 3D, etc.)
● I recommend using Cura as I have heard that people have had issues with some of the models using Sli3er
● Note: I also printed one more part that was not listed in the original thing. This part is to help the GT2 belt from
slipping off the 624zz bearings. Link
● Input the settings that you will be using on the parts
○ I used 100% infill on all the parts (An infill of 40 - 100% will work as well)
○ Printed all the parts with 0.15mm layer height
○ Printed with Hatchbox Red PLA Link
○ Use supports on the Penholder, Slider, X_Support_L and the X_Support_R (Remove the supports from these
parts once they are printed)
● The longest part took around 9hrs and the shortest took 30 minutes to print
Cut your Linear Rods to Length
● If you purchased rods that were cut to length, then skip this step
● Use a measuring tape and sharpie to mark the spots where the rods need to be cut
○ Use a vise to hold the rods in place when you cut them
○ Remember that you need (2) 350mm and (2) 450mm long linear rods
○ On the threaded rod, mark your cutting point at 470mm
● I used an angle grinder to cut the rods
● Then I took a bench grinder to smooth the ends that were cut(chamfer)
Assemble the X-Axis (Linear/Threaded Rods)
● Take the (2) 450mm linear rods and insert them into either x-support part
○ Use may need to use a round file to smooth out the holes that you insert them in
○ Also, you can use a rubber mallet to help insert the rods
● Now take the threaded rod and insert it in the hole below. Feed a 5/16in washer and 5/16in nut on both sides of the
x-support part
Assemble the X-Axis (Bearings)
● Now you want to push the LM8UU bearings into their place on the top and bottom clamshell
○ The top and bottom clamshell take (4) bearings each
● Take (4) 624zz bearings and push them through the 3D printed idler pulleys. Leave the 5th bearing for later when
you assemble the Y-axis
Assemble the X-Axis (Carriage)
● Get (4) M3-0.5 x 20mm screws, (4) M3 nuts, (4) M3 washers and (4) 624zz bearings with the idler pulleys installed
● Take one screw and feed a washer through it, the washer will rest on the bearing. The nut will be at the bottom of
the carriage, which will secure the bearing in place
Assemble the X-Axis (X-Support)
● Slide the clamshell through the 450mm(X-axis) linear rods
● Use a rubber mallet again to attach the last X-support on the linear rods
○ Make sure that the rods stick out equally on both sides
○ Slide the other end of the threaded rod through the hole on the X-support
● Put on the last set of nuts and washers to hold the X-support in place
● Now that the X-axis is complete, you can use (2) Phillips M3-0.5 x 16mm screws per X-support to help keep the
linear rods from sliding
Assemble the X-Axis (Stepper Motors)
● Use an appropriate sized allen wrench to attach the 16 teeth pulleys on the stepper motor shafts
● Flipping the entire chassis around will make it easier to attach the stepper motors
● Use (8) M3-0.5 x 6mm screws and a Phillips screwdriver to attach the (2) stepper motors
Assemble the Y-Axis (Clamshell)
● Grab (4) M4-0.5 x 35mm screws and (4) M4 nuts
● Make sure that you have the (4) idler pulleys and the (4) washers printed: Link
● Insert the washers in between the two clamshells, with a screw in between
● Screw the top and bottom clamshells together
Assemble the Y-Axis (Y-Back/Front)
● Y-Back:
○ Take the (2) 350mm linear rods and insert them the Y-back piece by using a rubber mallet
○ Get (1) M4-0.5 x 35 screw, (1) M4 nut and the 5th 624zz bearing
○ Get (2) M3-0.5 x 16 screws to secure the linear rods
○ Slide in the bearing when inserting the screw through the Y-back piece
● Y-Front:
○ Slide the the linear rods/Y-back piece through the LM8UU bearings and attach the Y-front piece using a
rubber mallet
Assemble the X-Y Axis (Belt)
● Use a pair of needle nose pliers to help guide the GT2 belt more easily through the clamshell
● Take the two ends of the belt and slide them through the “teeth” on the Base Slider
● The belt should be tight and not loose
● Note that once the GT2 belt is on, it is normal for the clamshell not to move easily
Diagram
Assemble the Z-Axis
● Get (2) 3mm linear rods and the following 3D printed parts:
○ Slider
○ Pen Holder
○ Base Slide
○ 3MM Metric Thumb Screw
● Get (1) Hex M3-0.5 x 20mm screw and the Metric Thumb Screw and push them together. Use superglue to keep it
together.
● Get (3) M3-0.5 x 16mm screws which you will use the secure the Base Slide to the Y-Front part. You may need to
use (3) M3-0.5 nuts in order to hold it in place
● Push the Slider and Pen Holder together to make one piece
● Now take that new part and the (2) 3mm linear rods and slide the rods through the holes. Place a small spring in
between the two parts so there is a little bit of pressure to lift the Slider. You may need to cut the spring a bit until
there is an adequate amount of pressure on the slider.
● You may also 3D print the improved pen holder which I designed: Link
Improved Pen Holder
Connecting the CNC Shield
● There one of two ways to power the CNC shield:
○ Solder an 18 gauge wire that connects the arduino vin pin and the + pin on the CNC shield. Then use the power supply and plug it
into the power socket on the arduino
○ ------------------------ or ------------------------
○ Connect the adaptor that comes with the power supply and run a Power and GND wire to the + and - pin on the CNC shield
● Install 3 jumpers on the CNC shield for each stepper driver
● Connect Stepper Drivers:
○ Connect the stepper driver with the screw facing away from the pushbutton as seen in the photos. Once they are plugged in you
can test if they work by moving the robot around using the Rabbit GCode Sender. If your robot moves very slowly or does not
move at all, double check all your wiring or use a small screwdriver and adjust the screw on the stepper driver. Note: you may or
may not need to adjust the screw but if you do, adjust it very slightly
● Wire the servo:
○ Connect the Brown wire to the GND pin on the shield
○ Connect the Red wire to the 5V pin on the shield
○ Connect the Orange wire to the Z+ pin on the shield
● Connect the stepper motors:
○ The blue wire on the stepper motors should be positioned closest to the x/y letter on the CNC shield
○ The left stepper motor is connected to the Y pins on the shield and the right stepper motor connects to the X pins
CNC Shield Setups
Wiring Diagram
Stepper Driver Setup
Install GRBL on Arduino
● GRBL first needs to be installed onto the Arduino Uno in order for you to send Gcode commands with the Rabbit
Gcode Sender
● Download the GRBL firmware here: Link
● You can follow the guide on how to install GRBL here: Link
○ Before compiling the arduino sketch, locate the config.h file and replace it with the new one from the thing
files
Inkscape
● Download the latest version of inkscape for your computer here: Link
● I will run you through the steps on how to generate Gcode files using Inkscape in the following slides:
Step 1 (Import Image)
1. Go to File>Open
2. Browse for image or
vector file
3. To resize image, first
click on it then hold ctrl
while dragging a corner
Step 2 (Create path from Image)
1. Left click on image >
Right click on image >
Trace bitmap
2. Click OK and close
window
Step 3 (Open Tools Library)
1. Extensions >
Gcodetools > Tools
Library
2. Click Apply and close
window
3. Click and drag the
green window to the
side of the artboard
Step 4 (Input values in Tool Library)
1. Select text tool
2. Double-click on values
to change them
Gcode Tools Library Settings
Step 5 (Create Orientation Points)
1. Navigate to:
Extensions>Gcodetools
>Orientation points
2.
Step 6 (Export Gcode)
1. First select the image
then navigate to
Extensions>Gcodetools
>Path to Gcode
2. Click on the
Preferences tab and
specify the directory
and name
3. Navigate back to the
Path to Gcode tab and
click apply
4. Now close the window
Step 7 (Check GCode)
1. You can open the gcode
file with a text editor to
view or change the
commands
2. Rename the file and
add the .gcode
extension
Rabbit G-Code Sender
● Download the latest version of the Rabbit GCode Sender for your computer here: Link
● I will show you how simple it is to send GCode commands to your drawing robot
Getting Started
Functions
GRBL Parameters

● You will need to change the GRBL

parameters before you start drawing
with your machine
● Enter these values as seen to the right
in the command box
● For example, type in: $121 = 500.000
Test your Robot
1. Plug in the power supply
2. Plug in the USB cord into your computer connecting your arduino
3. Launch the Rabbit GCode Sender and browse for your gcode file
4. Test your robot with one of the sample codes(More will be added soon): Link
5. Attach a pen, colored pencil, sharpie or any writing utensil you prefer
6. Tape down a piece of paper
7. I recommend placing your drawing machine on a cutting mat to prevent any marks being made and to provide a
smooth surface to draw: Link
Example Drawings
More pictures to come soon...
Troubleshooting
Q: Why is the servo not lifting the pen?

A: Check that your servo is wired properly: Orange: Z+, Red: 5V, Brown: GND. Reversing the Red and Brown wires will also
invert the direction the servo rotates. You may need to use the M3 S040 command to lift the pen. In addition, use the M5
command to lower the pen. The force from the spring or rubber band may be too strong for the servo to lift, so cut the
spring smaller or remove a few rubber bands.

Q:
Troubleshooting
Q:

A:

● For other problems that you may encounter, refer to the comments section as your issue will more than likely be
answered there: Link
Future Considerations
● I would like to mount a laser module in place of the drawing mechanism to do laser engraving
● Possibly use the parts to build a stronger frame that features a larger drawing volume
● Add more features to control the drawing robot:
○ A more user-friendly interface so that anyone without prior knowledge can easily draw something
○ ...
Contact
● Contact me through my Thingiverse account: Link if something was missing(Yes this instruction manual is a still a
work in progress. I work on improving it when I can) or needs to be changed. Feel free to ask me to add more
photos to the instructions or to clarify anything. I hope you found this useful.