Service Intervals and Recommended Maintenance: VT750C / CD / CD2
Service Intervals and Recommended Maintenance: VT750C / CD / CD2
Service Intervals and Recommended Maintenance: VT750C / CD / CD2
003
Servi
ce Inter
vals
and
Recommended
Maintenance
VT7
50C/
CD/
CD2
SHADOW/
SHADOW DELUXE/
ACE
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Honda VT750DC ACE
Disclaimer:
The articles in the “Service Interval and Recommended Maintenance Manual” (this
document) and those that may be posted in the forums of the 750ace.com website are
meant for information purposes only. These procedures and modifications are not
manufacturer approved instructions or modifications and they may not be legal in some
municipalities. 750ace.com is furnishing this information “as is”. 750ace.com does not
provide any warranty of these articles whatsoever, whether expressed, implied, or
statutory, including, but not limited to, any warranty of performance or fitness for a
particular purpose or any warranty that the contents of the articles will be error‐free.
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Honda VT750CD ACE
Honda VT750 Shadow A.C.E.
(American Classic Edition)
Service Intervals and Recommended Maintenance
1000 km 6400 km 12800 km 19200 km 25600 km 32000 km 38400 km
Task Maintenance Item Notes:
(600 mi) (4000 mi) (8000 mi) (1200 mi) (16000 mi) (20000 mi) (24000 mi)
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Honda VT750CD ACE
Table of Contents
Task #01 ‐ Drive Chain .................................................................................................................................................. 7
Task #02 ‐ Brake Fluid ................................................................................................................................................... 9
Task #03 ‐ Brake Wear ................................................................................................................................................ 10
Task #04 ‐ Brake System ............................................................................................................................................. 11
Task #05 ‐ Brake Light Switch ..................................................................................................................................... 13
Task #06 ‐ Headlight Aim ............................................................................................................................................ 14
Task #07 – Clutch ........................................................................................................................................................ 15
Task #08 ‐ Side Stand .................................................................................................................................................. 16
Task #09 ‐ Suspension ................................................................................................................................................. 17
Task #10 ‐ Nuts, Bolts and Fasteners .......................................................................................................................... 18
Task #11 ‐ Wheels & Tires ........................................................................................................................................... 23
Task #12 ‐ Steering Head Bearings .............................................................................................................................. 24
Task #13 ‐ Fuel Line & Filter ........................................................................................................................................ 24
Task #14 ‐ Throttle Operation ..................................................................................................................................... 25
Task #15 ‐ Carburetor Choke ...................................................................................................................................... 26
Task #16 ‐ Air Cleaner ................................................................................................................................................. 26
Task #17 ‐ Crankcase Breather ................................................................................................................................... 27
Task #18 ‐ Spark Plugs ................................................................................................................................................. 28
Task #19 ‐ Valve Inspection / Adjustment .................................................................................................................. 32
Task #20 ‐ Engine Oil & Filter ...................................................................................................................................... 41
Task #21 ‐ Removal & Installation of the Wheels ....................................................................................................... 43
Task #22 ‐ Carburetor Synchronization ...................................................................................................................... 47
Task #23 ‐ Engine Idle Speed ...................................................................................................................................... 49
Task #24 ‐ Radiator Coolant ........................................................................................................................................ 49
Task #25 ‐ Cooling System .......................................................................................................................................... 50
Task #26 ‐ Rear Brake Shoe Replacement .................................................................................................................. 51
Task #27 ‐ Front Brake Pad Replacement ................................................................................................................... 56
Task #28 ‐ Replacing the Coolant ................................................................................................................................ 58
Task #29 ‐ Front Brake Disc Inspection & Limits ......................................................................................................... 62
Task #30 ‐ Front Brake Bleeding ................................................................................................................................. 63
Task #31 ‐ Pilot Screw Adjustment ............................................................................................................................. 65
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Inspection:
Lubrication:
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Wear Inspection:
Adjustment:
Sprockets:
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Inspection:
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Inspection:
See Also...
- Front Brake Pad Replacement
- Front Brake Disc Inspection & Limits
Inspection:
See Also...
- Rear Brake Shoe Replacement
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Honda VT750CD ACE
The 750 ACE has excellent brakes for it's class. The
brakes are also one of the most important safety items
on your motorcycle and should be checked frequently
and maintained to the highest standards. Both the front
and rear brakes are completely independent of each
other and if one should fail, then the other brake will still
work.
- Brake Wear
- Brake Fluid Level
- Front Brake Pad Replacement
Pedal Height:
A stopper bolt is provided to allow adjustment of the
pedal height. Loosen the locknut (1) and turn the stopper
bolt (2). When the height is were you want it, tighten the
locknut (1).
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Free Play:
Whenever pedal height is adjusted or when the rear brake
is getting worn, you should check and adjust the free play
at the brake pedal. Measured at the tip of the brake pedal
(3), free play should be kept between 20‐30mm (0.8‐
1.2in).
Make free play adjustments by forcing the brake arm
forward (5) and then turning the adjusting nut (4). Turning
it in the direction of (A) decreases free play while turning
it in the direction of (B) increases free play. Make sure the
adjusting nut cut‐out is seated on the brake arm (5) when
finished.
WARNING: It has been my experience that this adjusting
nut can back off on it's own (perhaps due to the increased
vibration of my aftermarket pipes) and I had a near
disaster on the 401 HWY once when it backed off so far
that I had no rear brakes. I would recommend installing a
second 'jam nut' behind this adjuster. I installed a fiber
lock nut as a jam nut and it has not moved at all since
then.
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First, with your weight on the bike and the bike held
upright, take a measurement from the center of your
headlight to the ground. Now go to the wall that is 25
feet in front of you and mark a spot at the same height.
Draw a line through this mark (use a level). Now draw
another line two inches lower. Go back to the bike and
turn on the low beam. You want to adjust the low beam
so that the upper area of the light just rests on the lower
line and is a little to the right of your bike's centerline. To
adjust the headlight beam vertically, you turn the
adjustment screw on the bottom of the headlight can. To
adjust the headlight beam horizontally, you turn the
screw on the side of the headlight can.
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1. Loosen the locknut (4) and turn the adjusting nut (5)
as required. Direction (A) increases free play and
direction (B) decreases it. Tighten the locknut (4) when
done.
clutch.
Other Checks:
Check the clutch cable for kinks or signs if wear that could cause sticking or failure. Lubricate the clutch cable
with a good penetrating lubricant to prevent premature wear and failure. Apply the lubricant to both ends of the
cable and work it in by operating the clutch lever several times.
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Honda VT750DC ACE
Sit on the bike and keep it vertical. Check the side stand
for proper movement and for return spring tension. A
broken or damaged spring (1) can allow the side stand to
drop while riding, causing it to scrape and causing the
engine to quit.
Next, start the engine and with the clutch in, put the bike
in gear. Now lower the side stand... the engine should
stop as soon as you lower it.
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Warning: Loose, worn or damaged suspension parts impair motorcycle stability and control. Repair or replace
any damaged components before riding. Riding a motorcycle with faulty suspension increases your risk of an
accident and possible injury.
FRONT
REAR
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Honda VT750DC ACE
Check that all chassis nuts, bolts and screws are tightened to their correct torque values as per the service
manual, pages 1-13 to 1-16 (see below) at the interval shown in the Maintenance Schedule. Also check that all
cotter pins, slip clips, hose clamps and cable stays are in place and properly secured.
All the above said, I doubt anyone is going to go around and re-torque every nut and bolt on the bike, but you
should at the very least, put a wrench on all the major attachments (like wheel nuts, triple-tree attachments,
etc) and check for tightness. Make it also a practice to be constantly touching things on your bike, whenever
you are working on it. Don't be shy and tug and pull on things to check if they are loose. Also, constantly keep
your eyes roaming over things, looking for something that has come loose or is missing. After a while, you'll
find that "out of place" things jump right out at you.
Here also are scans of all the torques, directly from the factory service manual. I figured this was the best way
to post the torque values as I did not want to rip off the work of other people who took the time to transcribe
the values into a web page (Like Blacktop did on his site). I also did not want to run the risk of introducing
errors using OCR software or by me typing them all out, so scans you get! Use them wisely... at the very least,
try and get a hold of an accurate torque wrench when doing critical work on areas where proper torque is
needed (like cylinder head bolts, as an example).
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While making sure the fork is not allowed to move, raise the front wheel and check for play. Turn the wheel
and check that it rotates smoothly with no unusual noises.
If faults are suspect, inspect the wheel bearings. Take note that it is often found that the front wheel bearing
on the right-hand side will wear out faster than all the others. This is because that wheel bearing is exposed to
rain and moisture due to the left-hand leaning stance of the bike on it's side stand and the natural way the tire
sits turned to the left.
Inspect the spokes for loosen by tapping them with a screwdriver. They should sound clearly and all alike. If
one sounds different or makes a "dull" sound, then tighten it with a spoke wrench or something similar. The
torque should be 2.9 foot pounds (4 N-m).
Now raise the rear wheel and check for play and for spoke tightness as well. With the rear tire, you can have
play in the wheel bearings and ALSO the swing arm pivot bearings, so if you suspect any faults, make sure you
isolate which area it comes from (wheel bearings or pivot bearings).
Stock Brands:
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Honda VT750DC ACE
Turn the fuel valve off. Disconnect the fuel tube from the
bottom of the fuel filter (pump-to-filter). Remove the fuel
filter and rubber cushion from the filter bracket and then
remove the other fuel tube. Remove the rubber cushion
from the filter and inspect the filter for damage and
contamination. Replace the filter if necessary, taking
note that the arrow on the filter body must be pointing
towards the fuel pump (down).
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With the engine idling, turn the handlebar all the way
from stop to stop and ensure that the idle speed does not
change. If the idle speed changes, then check the
freeplay (below) and also check the cables for proper
routing, interference and security.
If you can not get the proper free play with the upper
adjusters, then adjust using the lower fittings, on the
carb end. Same thing... loosen the lock nuts, turn the
adjusters until you have the proper free play and then
re-secure the lock nuts.
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Honda VT750CD ACE
The air cleaner case has a small tube in the bottom that
allows the engine crankcase to vent. Attached to this
tube is a plastic sleeve that catches any oils and crud
that is vented. This tube should be cleaned out during
every routine maintenance check. Also, as mentioned in
the air cleaner section, if you drive through a lot of rain
or dust, then you should also clean out the inside of the
case as well as the vent tube.
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Honda VT750DC ACE
The ACE has two spark plugs per cylinder, so four plugs in total. They should be inspected at every service and
replaced every 12,800km or as conditions dictate.
Inspecting your spark plugs can tell you a great deal about the condition of your engine and how well in tune it
is. To help, I have constructed a simple guide for reading the conditions of your plugs. The pictures and
information were compiled from several other charts that various plug makers have published.
Recommended Plugs:
1. Disconnect the spark plug boots from the spark plugs. Avoid using pliers or any other tool to do this as you
can damage the plugs or the boot.
2. Clean any dirt from around the spark plug bases BEFORE removing the plug, to prevent it from falling into a
cylinder. Then remove the spark plug using the plug wrench supplied in your tool kit.
4. Check the spark plug gap using a feeler gauge and the values listed above. Adjust as necessary.
5. Reinsert the new plug (with washer attached) and thread it in by hand to prevent cross-threading. Hand
tighten the plug, then make an additional 1/2 turn to compress the washer. If reinstalling a used plug, you
should only turn the plug an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn instead. The spark plug needs to be secure, but DO NOT
over tighten as the heads are made of aluminum and it is very easy to strip the threads.
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Normal:
Worn:
Overheating:
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Oil Fouled:
Pre-Ignition:
Detonation:
Mechanical Damage:
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Gap Bridging:
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Honda VT750DC ACE
NOTE: Inspect and adjust the valve clearances while the engine is cold (below 35°C or 95°F).
Inspecting and adjusting the valve clearances is probably the most difficult task that a regular ACE owner
might attempt on their own. Any owner that has a basic aptitude for maintenance and doesn't mind spending a
day tearing their bike down can do this task and the biggest benefit is that it will save a hefty fee from the
dealer. Most bike shops, if they do the job properly, will charge at least 2 hours shop labor, if not more. If you
are going to do this yourself, then expect to take around 4 to 5 hours. Also, you will need a good work area
with lots of room to lay out the parts you need to disassemble. As for tools, you will need the basic kit that is
included with the bike, as well as a couple of special tools just for this job. They are a feeler gauge and a 4mm
open end wrench for the tappets, or a special tool built for the job.
Required Tools:
Park your bike on a flat surface on it's side stand where you can work uninterrupted for 4-6 hours. Also, it
would be good to lay out a piece of cardboard or a workbench so you can lay the various parts down and keep
track of the hardware etc.
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NOTE: Before disconnecting the fuel line, turn the fuel valve "OFF".
Place a rag under the fuel valve to catch any fuel that
comes out then remove the fuel tube from the valve by
squeezing the clip ends and sliding the clip back down
the tube. Pull the tube from the valve. On the other side
of the tank there is a slim air vent tube that you can just
pull off the tank easily. Remove the fuel tank mounting
bolt and then slide the tank back a bit and lift it clear of
the bike. Make sure the speedometer harness is out of
the clip holder on top.
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Honda VT750DC ACE
Remove the two (2) air cleaner housing bolts (not the 6 hex head bolts for the cover!). Then loosen the air
cleaner housing to chamber band clamp with the screw. Pull the air cleaner housing away.
For the air chamber, you need to loosen the band clamps
at the intakes for the carburetors. Then pull the chamber
a little ways from the frame and disconnect the
crankcase breather tube from the chamber. Remove the
air chamber.
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Remove the bolts and then remove the rear cylinder left
side fins and choke (SE Valve) knob and bracket.
NOTE: As you remove the carburetors, take note of the routing for the choke cables. Maybe draw a picture or
take a picture with your digital camera. Because the carbs can be re-installed with these cables routed wrong
and then the choke may be difficult to open or may have too much spring-back on it, like I found out on my
bike.
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Remove the sub-air cleaner housings from both cylinders. The rear cylinder is only held on with one bolt and
the front cylinder's is held on with 3 bolts.
Also remove the remaining fin covers from both sides of the front cylinder.
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Honda VT750DC ACE
Remove the cylinder head covers and gaskets. Take care not to damage the gaskets or to scratch the clear coat
finish on the covers. You might also have to remove the coolant lines to get the covers out. If you do, watch
that you don't spill coolant onto the heads and in the oil. Take it slow and careful here!
Step 9: Remove the caps from the Crankcase and Timing Holes:
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Notes:
Front Cylinder:
You need to find Top Dead Centre (TDC) on the compression stroke of this cylinder. The easiest way to do this
is to use a socket on the crankshaft nut (via the crankcase hole) and rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise.
Make sure the bike is in neutral. Now watch the rocker arms as you rotate the crankshaft slowly. They will move
up and down. When you see all the rocker arms in the up position, look in the timing hole and keep rotating the
crank slowly until you see the "FT" Mark line up with the line on the edge of the timing hole. That means the
front cylinder is now at TDC and all the valves are closed (compression stroke).
Now measure the clearances with the feeler gauge. There are two intake valves (side by side) and one exhaust
valve per cylinder. Start with the largest gap you can allow. For example, on the exhaust valve, try to insert an
0.009" gauge between the rocker and the tappet. If you can insert this gauge easily, then the gap is excessive.
Once you have determined that there is adjustments to be made, adjust each valve to it's minimum limit. To
adjust the valve, loosen the lock nut (using a 10mm box-end wrench) then turn the tappet adjusting screw
using a 4mm box-end wrench until the gauge just fits but still has some drag. Now tighten the lock nut back up.
Recheck the gap after you tighten the lock nut, because when you do the tightening, it tends to pull everything
together and loosen the gap up a bit. It might take a little trial and error to hit the gap you are shooting for
after everything is tight. Once you are happy about the gaps, recheck that ALL the lock nuts are tight!
Rear Cylinder:
Repeat this process with the rear cylinder now., but this time you are rotating the crank until the rear cylinder
rockers are all up and the mark you are lining up in the timing hole says "RT". Again, once you are happy with
the clearances, double-check that the lock-nuts are tight! By tight, I mean they should be torqued to 17 foot-
pounds, so don't go Arnold on them and try to torque them to 100 ft-pounds!
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Now that the valve clearances have been checked and adjusted, you can start putting everything back together.
Just go in reverse of the instructions above and take note of the following...
• Clean the gasket surfaces on the cylinder heads before re-installing the covers
• Put a little grease on the threads of the crankcase hole and timing hole caps
• Make sure you route the choke cables properly as you insert the carbs
• Make sure you tighten the carb drain screws before opening the fuel valve
• You lose a little oil from the heads, check the level after you run it
• If you had to disconnect the coolant lines to get the head covers off, make sure you check the coolant
level after running the bike.
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First warm the oil up by taking your bike for a short ride.
To drain the oil, remove the oil filler cap/dipstick (#5 on
bottom picture), the crankcase drain plug (1) and the
gasket(2). Make sure to drain the oil in an approved
container and dispose of it properly.
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Apply a thin coat of oil to the new oil filter rubber seal
(4). Install the new filter and snug it up BY HAND. The
torque is only supposed to be 7 ft.lbs. and you can easily
do this just with your hands. Use a rag if your hands are
too greasy for a good grip.
Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes. While it is
idling, check that there are no leaks from the plug or the
filter. Stop the engine and let it sit for several minutes,
then check the level again and make sure the oil is at the
upper(6) on the dipstick.
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7. Remove the axle nut, right side collar and rear axle
(note the positions of the two side collars for
reassembly);
Installation:
1. Position the wheel between the swing arms and loosely install the chain over the rear sprocket, then slide the
axle (from the left side) through the swing arm, side collar, wheel hub, other side collar and opposite swing
arm. (NOTE: You might find it easier to have help. Also, I always preferred holding the wheel against the left
side collar and left swing arm until the axle was into the wheel hub, then position the right side collar before
sliding the axle the rest of the way.)
3. Connect the brake stopper arm to the brake panel with bolt, seat washer, washer and nut. Tighten the nut to
14 lb.ft.;
4. Install the NEW cotter pin. Connect the brake rod to the brake arm;
6. Adjust the rear brake free play ( Ref: Task 04 - Brake System );
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4. Loosen then remove the axle bolt from the axle and
then remove the axle and front wheel.
Installation:
1. Install the front wheel between the fork legs, so that the brake disc is positioned between the pads, being
careful not to damage the pads;
2. Apply a thin coat of grease to the front axle and install it through the fork legs and wheel hub;
3. Position the lug on the speedometer gear box against the back of the stopper on the fork leg;
5. Lower the bike so that the front wheel is touching the ground. Then, while holding the front brake on... pump
the front suspension up and down several times to seat the axle and check front brake operation;
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Honda VT750CD ACE
The ACE has a liquid cooled engine and therefore you must maintain a proper level of radiator coolant, just like
in a car. Honda recommends that you use only Honda HP coolant or an equivalent high quality ethylene gylcol
antifreeze containing corrosion protection inhibitors specifically recommended for use in aluminum engines.
NOTICE:
Using coolant with silicate inhibitors may cause premature wear of water pump seals or blockage of
radiator passages. Using tap water may cause engine damage. Use only low-mineral drinking water
or distilled water as part of the anti-freeze solution.
Your ACE comes with a 50/50 solution of antifreeze and distilled water. A higher concentration of antifreeze
decreases the performance of the cooling system and is only recommended when additional protection from
freezing is needed.
A concentration of less then 40% antifreeze will not provide proper corrosion protection for your aluminum
engine. So basically, you should just keep it a 50/50 mixture or buy a pre-mixed product that is equivalent to
50/50.
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Honda VT750DC ACE
Wash the motorcycle, paying particular attention to the radiator grill. Take the motorcycle for a run to bring it
up to operating temperature and then let it sit and idle until the fan comes on. If the fan fails to come on, shut
the motorcycle off before it gets too hot and fix the fan motor before proceeding with this task.
Check the radiator grill for clogging or damage. Straighten bent fins with a small flat-bladed screwdriver and
remove insects, mud or other obstructions with compressed air or low pressure water. Replace the radiator if it
is obstructed over more than 20% of its surface area.
Also, check closely for leaks in the cooling hoses, the water pump and the thermostat.
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Disassembly:
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CLEANING:
Assembly:
Grease the shaft of the brake cam and install it into the
brake panel.
Apply oil to the felt seal and install it onto the front of the
brake panel, fitting it over the cam shaft.
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Install the brake panel back onto the wheel and re-install
the rear wheel onto the motorcycle. ( ref: Task 21 -
Removal & Installation of the Wheels )
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Warning!!!
See Also...
- Front Brake Bleeding
NOTE:
Remove the pad pin plug and loosen the pad pin under
the plug.
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Install the new pads so that their ends rest on the pad
retainer on the bracket properly.
Install the pad pin by pushing the pads against the pad
springs to align the pad pin holes and the pin holes in the
pads and the caliper.
Install and tighten the pad pin plug and torque to 2.2
lb.ft. (0.3 kgf.m)
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Honda VT750DC ACE
NOTE: Perform this task only when the engine is cold. Under no circumstances should you open the radiator
cap when the engine is still hot.
NOTE: Use only Honda compatible Type 2 (non-silicate) ethylene glycol based pre-mixed coolant. You can
get it at a Honda bike or Honda car dealership and it usually comes in 3.85 litre jugs like the one pictured
below. DO NOT use a Type 1 coolant as it has silicates in it which can cause premature wear of the water pump
seals.
Required Tools:
Park your bike in an area where spilled coolant won't be a big issue. It's impossible to change the coolant on
this bike without getting some of it on the ground. I was able to catch the largest amount from the pump, but
all the other areas I basically just let drain on the ground and then hosed up after. Therefore, make sure you do
this in an area you can clean easily and that no children or pets are around. If you have a bike lift, it makes the
job much easier.
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Re-secure the neck cover and put the gas tank back in position and bolt on. Install the seats. Finally, give the
bike and work area a good hose down to remove any spilled coolant.
Ride the bike and recheck the level after a day or two. Remember, always check the level and top up the fluid
using the reservoir ONLY! The radiator should only be opened when doing the complete replacement as
described above. For day to day use, just adding fluid to the reservoir is sufficient.
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Warning!!!
• Do not allow foreign material to enter the system when filling the reservoir.
• Avoid spilling fluid on painted, plastic or rubber parts. cover these areas with a rag whenever the
system is serviced
• Us only DOT 4 brake fluid from a sealed container
• Do not mix different types of fluid as they are not compatible
Connect a tube to the Bleed Valve and put the other end
in a clean container.
Loosen the Bleed Valve and pump the brake lever until
no more fluid flows out of the Bleed Valve.
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Honda VT750DC ACE
Most of you will not have access to these specialized tools, so the simplest way is to do a manual fill &
bleed. First, close the bleed valve and put a CLEAN tube on the bleed valve and then set the open end of the
tube into a CLEAN container and fill that container up with enough new brake fluid to cover the end of the
tube. Always keep the end of the tube in the clean brake fluid so that you do not inadvertently suck air while
bleeding.
Next, fill the reservoir up with new, clean brake fluid. Pump the brake lever until pressure is felt. Then,
squeeze the brake lever with steady pressure and WHILE DOING this, crack open the bleed valve 1/2 turn. DO
NOT release the brake lever while the fluid is flowing. Let the fluid flow for a short time and then close the
bleed valve quickly WHILE STILL PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE BRAKE LEVER. Once the valve is closed, slowly
ease up on the brake lever and let everything rest for a little while. Make sure you do not drain the reservoir
while doing the bleeding.... so top it up between each cycle.
Repeat this procedure until you no longer see any air bubbles coming out of the tube, then test the feel of the
brakes. If the lever feels spongy, keep bleeding a couple of more tries.
Once you are satisfied with the feel of the brakes, top up the reservoir to the full mark and then close it up,
making sure that the set plate is between the diaphragm and the cover.
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Honda VT750CD ACE
The carburetors on the ACE have what is called Pilot Screws that set the air/fuel mixture for when the engine
is at idle. These screws are set at the factory and then covered with brass plugs and normally, no adjustment is
necessary on them. However, experience has taught us that a very large number of ACE’s were delivered to
customers with these screws incorrectly set and it is highly recommended that every ACE owner does this
procedure to make sure these screws are set correctly. Also, any changes to the exhaust system may require
you to re-adjust the Pilot Screws, such as the Stage 1 mod where the stock baffles are punched or Stage III
where an aftermarket exhaust is used in conjunction with larger main jetting.
The reason why these screws need to be adjusted right is to prevent a condition known as "lean misfire". If
the screws are set too lean (as is often the case for new bikes) the mixture at idle may become too lean and
sometimes it won’t completely ignite in the engine. This unburned fuel them collects in the exhaust and ignites
there, causing a backfire. The rider would notice this as rapid "pops" or "bangs" on deceleration, sometimes
called the "Rice Crispy Snap Crackle and Pop". This condition is NOT normal and NOT healthy for the engine. It
creates serious back pressure in the exhaust and can cause damage not only to the exhaust but also the engine
and valves.
Now the service manual has a detailed procedure for setting the Pilot screws that involves making changes to
obtain a specific RPM drop at idle but this requires you to have a shop with an accurate tach and also, you can’t
properly adjust the forward cylinder with the air filter housing installed and running the bike without the air
filter is not recommended. So I’ve created this "simplified" procedure that is more then adequate to meet the
needs of the average ACE owner.
Step 1:
The first step is to remove the air filter housing. We are taking the whole housing off, which is easier then
removing just the filter. Remove the two allen key bolts that secure the back of the housing and then loosen the
screw on the clamp that secures the housing to the air box. Then just pull the housing off.
Caution: After each adjustment, reinstall the air filter before running the bike to test it. The bike will not run
properly under power without the air filter attached.
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Step 2:
Remove the plug covering the pilot screw on the left carb (rear cylinder - see
Pic). A good way to do this is to drill a small hole in the plug (be careful that you
only drill just enough to get through the plug and not into the screw behind it!).
Then take a PK screw (or any sheet metal screw - the kind with a point that is self
tapping) and screw it into the small hole you drilled until it grabs. Then just pull
the plug out using a pair of pliers on the PK screw head. NOTE: If you bought the
bike used, it's possible that the plugs have already been removed.
You will now see the small pilot screw under where the plug was. Take a small flat
screwdriver and gently turn the pilot screw IN (clockwise) until it seats, counting
the number of turns it takes. Use gentle force as this screw is very thin and has
O-ring seals on it.
Now turn the screw OUT (counter-clockwise) the number of turns in the table
below.
• Stock exhaust, no mods… 2 and ¼ turns (What was supposed to be the
factory setting)
• Stage I - Punched exhaust baffles, no new jets though … 2 and ½ turns
• Stage I - Punched exhaust or aftermarket pipes with baffles and Stage 1
Jets … 3 Turns
• Stage III - Aftermarket exhaust and Stage III jets … 3 and ¼ turns
Step 3:
Repeat the above procedure with the right carb (forward cylinder). Use the same
settings as above. Some people choose to make the rear carb slightly more rich
as it runs hotter, so if you want, make the back ¼ turn richer then the front (the
back is the left carb, also known as the BASE carb)
Now reinstall the air filter housing and take the bike for a test run. Make sure to
do lots of fast decelerations while downshifting to see if the exhaust pops on you.
An occasional pop is not uncommon, especially when the bike is cold or the
weather is cool and damp. If, however, you are still getting lots of the misfires,
then go back and readjust each screw ¼ further out.
Caution… do not go more than 4 full turns out as the screw may come loose at
about 4 and ½ turns. If you are unsure of where you left off, then reseat the
screws and count out again to get the right setting.
For bikes with extreme set ups, such as open pipes and modified air intake
systems, you MAY have to go one size up in the pilot jets to get rid of the lean
idle condition. This is rare though and normally, you can adjust the Pilot Screws
to get rid of those pops. If you have a normal Stage I or III and you can’t seem to
get rid of them, then look for another cause. Exhaust leaks are a common one.
Also, over time, the jets in a bike’s carbs can get clogged up. When I last did my
Stage III jetting, I found my pilot jets almost half the diameter they were
supposed to be so I cleaned them with some fine wire and the bike idles much
better afterwards.
Final Step:
Once you have the screws set to where you want them, I would suggest sealing the screw holes with a dab of
silicone rubber. This will keep them weatherproof and act as a thread locker. If you need to get back to them
for another adjustment, just pry the silicone off with a small screwdriver.
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