Designation: D8007 − 15

Standard Test Method for

Wale and Course Count of Weft Knitted Fabrics1
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D8007; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.

1. Scope 3.2 The following terms are relevant to this test method:
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of wale and count-in knitted fabrics, course-in knitted fabrics, knitted
course counts of weft knitted fabrics. Weft knit fabrics are fabric, and wale-in knitted fabrics.
made on circular or flat-bed knitting machines and include 3.3 For definitions of other textile terms used in this test
single- as well as double-knit fabric categories. Typical fabrics method, refer to Terminology D123.
in the single-knit category include jersey and single-pique;
typical fabrics in the double-knit category are rib, interlock, 4. Summary of Test Method
and swiss pique. 4.1 The number of wales and the number of courses per unit
1.2 This test method is not applicable to warp knit fabrics distance of a knitted fabric are counted using a suitable ruler,
such as tricot or raschel. magnifying device, or digital camera system. For an illustration
of a simple knitted fabric wale and course orientation, see Fig.
1.3 Wale and course counts are to be reported separately. 1.
1.4 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded
as the standard. The values given in parentheses are mathemati- 5. Significance and Use
cal conversions to SI units that are provided for information 5.1 If there are differences of practical significance between
only and are not considered standard. reported test results for two laboratories (or more), compara-
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the tive tests should be performed to determine if there is a
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the statistical bias between them using competent statistical assis-
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro- tance. As a minimum, ensure that the test samples to be used
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica- are as homogeneous as possible and drawn from the material
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use. from which the disparate test results were obtained. The test
specimens are to be randomly assigned in equal numbers to
2. Referenced Documents each laboratory for testing. The test results from the partici-
2.1 ASTM Standards: pating laboratories should be compared using a statistical test
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles for unpaired data to a probability level chosen before initiation
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles of the testing. If a bias is found, either its cause shall be found
D3887 Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics and corrected, or future test results for that material shall be
D4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
Methods 5.2 The results obtained by this test method may be used to
E177 Practice for Use of the Terms Precision and Bias in determine if fabrics meet the tolerances for fabric counts given
ASTM Test Methods in Specification D3887.
E691 Practice for Conducting an Interlaboratory Study to
Determine the Precision of a Test Method 6. Apparatus
6.1 Use any suitable device, such as a pick glass, ruler,
3. Terminology microscope, or digital camera system that will allow counting
3.1 For terminology related to fabrics, see Terminology by unit distance.
D4850. 6.2 The use of a stylus, pointer, or pick needle is recom-
mended when using a pick glass, ruler, or if the microscope
does not have a micrometer.
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, 7. Sampling
General.
Current edition approved July 1, 2015. Published September 2015. DOI: 7.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing, take
10.1520/D8007-15. at random the number of rolls of fabric as directed in an

Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States

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 D8007 − 15

FIG. 1 Wale and Course Orientation in Single Knitted Fabric

Courtesy of Cotton Incorporated, Cary, NC, Circular Knitting Science Intermediate Workshop Notebook and The Art of Knitting: An Interactive Guide to the Basics of
Knitting educational CD, www.cottoninc.com.

applicable material specification or other agreement between testing. Such results may not correspond with the results
the purchaser and the supplier. Consider rolls of fabric to be the obtained when testing in the standard atmosphere for testing
primary sampling unit. textiles.
7.2 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample, take a full
width swatch at least 2 yd (2 m) long from each roll of fabric 9. Procedure
in the lot sample. 9.1 Wale and course counts should be made no closer to a
7.2.1 It is not necessary to cut out swatches from the fabric selvage or tubular edge than one tenth of the width of the
laboratory sample for each wale and course count to be taken. fabric or within 0.5 yd (0.5 m) of the end of the roll or piece.
Consider each designated place at which wale and course 9.1.1 Wale and course counts may be made on either the
counts are made as a test specimen. It is recommended that a face or the back side of the fabric sample. Select the fabric side
wale and a course count be taken at the same site on the that allows for the best visual observation of the wales and
laboratory sample then at different locations along the length courses.
and across the width of the laboratory sample. 9.1.2 For garments or textile items, see 7.3.
7.3 When like garments or textile items represent a labora- 9.2 For counting wales, position a ruler or counting device
tory sample, wale and course counts should be made at along the width direction of the fabric. Using a stylus or the
locations on different panels of the garments or products at pointer of a counting device, place the starting point between
least 2 in. (5 cm) away from seams, pockets, plackets, or other two wales along a single course row. Move the stylus or pointer
assembly sites. along the width direction, counting the number of wales until
a 1-in. (2.5 cm) distance is reached. Record the count.
8. Conditioning 9.2.1 Repeat 9.2 in two additional locations.
8.1 Condition specimens as directed in Practice D1776. 9.2.2 For counting wales on a rib knitted fabric, only the
Testing may be performed without conditioning. However, in visible wales are counted and recorded for the side of the fabric
cases of dispute, specimens shall be conditioned before testing. chosen for counting.
8.2 If testing is performed in conditions not specified in NOTE 1—A designation of 1 × 1, 2 × 2, or 3 × 3 is used to describe a
Practice D1776, report the prevailing conditions at the time of balanced rib knit fabric, that is, one in which the same number of wales

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 D8007 − 15
per unit length are visible on each side of the fabric. 11.2.3 The actual distance across which the wales and
9.3 For counting courses, place a ruler or counting device in courses were counted if greater than 1 in. (2.5 cm); and
the length fabric direction along a wale column. Position a 11.2.4 Average number of wales and courses per 1 in.
stylus or the pointer of a counting device between two courses (2.5 cm) stating the wale count first. See Eq 1.
as the starting point. Move the stylus or pointer along the wale Knitted fabric count = 36 3 48 (1)
direction, counting the number of courses until a 1-in. (2.5 cm)
distance has been reached. where:
9.3.1 Repeat 9.3 in two additional locations. 36 = Average wale count per inch, wpi, and
48 = Average course count, cpi.
9.4 If using a digital counting microscope, follow the
manufacturer’s instructions for counting wales and courses to
the selected distance of measurement. NOTE 2—Knitted fabric manufacturers may use the reverse order, that
9.5 If counting wales and courses on garments or products, is, courses by wales, when denoting knitted fabric counts.
select locations in three different panels of the garment or
product. 12. Precision and Bias
9.6 For any measurement device used (ruler, fabric counter, 12.1 Precision—The precision of this test method is based
or microscope), if there is a difference of two or more wales or on an intralaboratory study of D8007, new Test Method for
courses between the three locations, count and record wales or Wale and Course Count of Weft Knit Fabric, conducted in
courses in three locations at 3- or 5-in. (7.5 or 25.4 cm) or 2010. Three operators in a single laboratory tested four
greater distances. Counting distances greater than 1 in. samples: jersey, 2 × 2 rib, single-pique, and interlock knitted
(2.5 cm) will produce more precise wale and course counts. fabrics. Wale and course counts were performed on each
sample. Every “test result” represents the average of three
9.7 For fancy knitted fabrics in which one or more yarns do individual determinations, and all participants were asked to
not appear at regular, short intervals, perform counts over at report two replicate test results for each fabric analyzed. For
least one full pattern repeat of each design component rounding the pique and interlock samples, some wale counts were
to the nearest whole number wale or course. Record the counts performed at 3-in. (7.6 cm) intervals that indicate greater
and the distances measured. variability is likely to occur when counting these fabric
10. Calculation constructions. Insufficient data were available for a full statis-
tical analysis on these fabrics. A later study will be performed
10.1 Calculate the average number of wales and courses per to provide additional information. Except for testing in only a
1 in. (2.5 cm) separately to the nearest whole number. single laboratory, Practice E691 was followed for the study
10.2 In instances in which 3-in. (7.5 cm) or greater distances design and analysis of the data; the details are given in ASTM
are counted, divide the average counts by three, or the distance Research Report No. D13-1139.2
measured, to report a count per 1 in. (2.5 cm). 12.1.1 Repeatability Limit (r)—Two test results obtained
within one laboratory shall be judged not equivalent if they
10.3 In the case of counting fancy knitted fabrics in which
differ by more than the r value for that material; r is the interval
pattern repeats or areas of different components in the design
representing the critical difference between two test results for
are used, divide the number of wales (or courses) by the
the same material obtained by the same operator using the
distance counted to achieve a count per 1 in. (2.5 cm) and
same equipment on the same day in the same laboratory.
average the respective counts to the nearest whole number.
12.1.1.1 Repeatability limits are listed in Tables 1 and 2.
11. Report 12.1.2 Reproducibility Limit (R)—Two test results shall be
judged not equivalent if they differ by more than the R value
11.1 Samples were tested as directed in Test Method D8007. for that material; R is the interval representing the critical
11.2 Report the following information:
11.2.1 Each sample’s identification, lot number, and so
forth; 2
Supporting data have been filed at ASTM International Headquarters and may
11.2.2 Standard conditions or the conditions under which be obtained by requesting Research Report RR: D13-1139. Contact ASTM
the testing was performed; Customer Service at [email protected].

TABLE 1 Wale Counts

Material AverageA Repeatability Standard Reproducibility Standard Repeatability Limit Modified Reproducibility
Deviation Deviation LimitB
x̄ Sr SR r R
Jersey—100 % cotton,
41.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
5.6 oz ⁄ yd2
2 x 2 rib—100 % cotton,
26.7 0.6 0.9 1.6 2.4
5.8 oz ⁄ yd2
A
The average of the operators’ calculated averages.
B
Based on the variability of three different operators in a single laboratory.

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 D8007 − 15
TABLE 2 Course Counts
A
Material Average Repeatability Standard Reproducibility Standard Repeatability Limit Modified Reproducibility
Deviation Deviation LimitB
x̄ Sr SR r R
Jersey—100 % cotton,
65.2 0.4 0.4 1.1 1.1
5.6 oz ⁄ yd2
2 x 2 rib—100 % cotton,
35.5 0.4 0.6 1.1 1.6
5.8 oz ⁄ yd2
A
The average of the operators’ calculated averages.
B
Based on the variability of three different operators in a single laboratory.

difference between two test results for the same material 12.1.3 The terms repeatability limit and reproducibility
obtained by different operators using different equipment in limit are used as specified in Practice E177, except as noted.
different laboratories. 12.1.4 Any judgment in accordance with 12.1.1 and 12.1.2
12.1.2.1 As only a single laboratory reported results in this would have an approximate 95 % probability of being correct.
study, comparisons could only be made between the results
reported by the three participating operators; therefore, appro- 13. Keywords
priately modified reproducibility limits are listed in Tables 1
and 2. 13.1 course count; knitted fabric; wale count

ANNEX

(Mandatory Information)

A1. EXAMPLES OF WALE AND COURSE COUNT SEQUENCING BY KNIT FABRIC TYPE

A1.1 Single Jersey A1.4 Single-Pique Knitted Fabric

A1.1.1 See Fig. A1.1 for an example of a single jersey. A1.4.1 See Fig. A1.4 for an example of a single-pique
A1.2 Interlock Knitted Fabric knitted fabric.
A1.2.1 See Fig. A1.2 for an example of an interlock knitted
fabric.
A1.3 Rib, 2 × 2, Knitted
A1.3.1 See Fig. A1.3 for an example of a rib, 2 × 2, knitted
fabric.

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 D8007 − 15

FIG. A1.1 Single Jersey

FIG. A1.2 Interlock Knitted fabric

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 D8007 − 15

FIG. A1.3 Rib, 2 by 2, Knitted

FIG. A1.4 Single-Pique Knitted Fabric

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