HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Welcome to the Module “Laying Out Reference Lines”. This module contains training
materials and activities for you to complete.

The unit of competency “Lay Out Reference Lines” covers the knowledge, skills, behavior
and motivations required to plan and develop proposals and bids for the staging of
meetings and events. Depending on the context, this role could be performed by a wide
range of individuals including event managers, local or regional tourism managers, venue
managers and marketing managers.

You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to complete each of
the learning outcomes of the module. In each learning outcome there are Information
Sheets, Operation Sheets, and Activity Sheets. Follow these activities on your own and
answer the Self-Check at the end of each learning activity.

This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency Carpentry NC II
This will be the source of information for you to acquire the knowledge and skills in this
particular module with minimum supervision or help from your trainer. With the aid of this
material, you will acquire the competency independently and at your own pace.
Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the training of this unit. Read
through the module carefully. It is divided into sections which covers all the skills and
knowledge you need to successfully complete in this module.

Work through all the information sheets and complete the activities in each section. Do
what is asked in the INSTRUCTIONAL SHEETS and complete the SELF-CHECK.
Suggested references are included to supplement the materials provided in this module.
Most probably, your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/she is there to
support you and show you the correct way to do things. Ask for help.
Your trainer will tell you about the important things you need to consider when you are
completing activities and it is important that you listen and take notes.

Talk to more experienced workmates and ask for their guidance.

Use the self-check questions at the end of each section to test your own progress.
When you are ready, ask your trainer to watch you perform the activities outlined in the
module.
As you work through the activities, ask for written feedback on your progress. Your trainer
gives feedback/pre-assessment reports for this reason. When you have successfully
completed each element or learning outcome, ask your trainer to mark on the reports that
you are ready for assessment.
When you have completed this module and feel confident that you have had sufficient
practice, your trainer will schedule you for the institutional assessment. The result of your
assessment/evaluation will be recorded in your COMPETENCY ACHIEVEMENT
RECORD
 MODULE CONTENT

Unit of Competency : LAY OUT REFERENCE LINES

Module Title : LAYING OUT REFERENE
LINES
Module Descriptor : This unit covers the knowledge, skills and attitude for
establishing reference lines in preparation for lay out

Summary of Learning Outcomes:

Upon completion of this module the trainee/student must be able to:
LO1. Prepar materials and tools
LO2. Locate the offset line established by the line and grade/surveyor
LO3. Establish the required reference lines
 INFORMATION SHEET 1.1-1
MEASURING, MARKING AND LAYING OUT MATERIALS
Learning Objectives
After this lesson, the learner is expected to:
1. Distinguish between measuring, marking and layout tools
2. Lay out lines and geometric shapes

INTRODUCTION

Accurate measurement and layout is essential for high quality cabinetmaking. You must be able to
transfer the shapes of your design onto your materials. With skillful measuring, you can mark, cut,
and assemble parts with precision. Much of cabinetmaking relies on square edges and joints.
Squareness simply means that all corners join at a 90° angle. When a piece is not cut square, or
two pieces are not assembled square, the entire cabinet is affected. This chapter describes how to
mark accurate geometric shapes on your materials. A number of tools are used by cabinetmakers to
complete layouts. These include marking, measuring, and layout tools.

MARKING TOOLS

Most cabinetmakers mark with pencil. A sharp pencil will make an accurate line. Remove pencil
marks with an eraser before sanding. A knife or scratch awl (scriber) will also mark the wood.
See Figure 12-2. A light cut makes a visible reference line for sawing or other work. A knife is
often used when the mark is needed to locate a tool, such as a saw or chisel. A scratch awl can
indent the wood to help center a drill.
MARKING GAUGE
Traditionally, cabinetmakers used a marking gauge to layout their cuts. The marking gauge is
designed to make parallel lines. It has an adjustable head and a steel pin or cutting wheel, It is
used to mark parallel lines on wood, plastic, and metal.

MEASURNG TOOLS
Measuring tools are instruments used to determine lengths and angles. They follow two
systems. They are the US customary system and the International System (SI), commonly
referred to as metric. US customary rulers and scales measure feet and inches. Smaller units
are measured in fractions of an inch. To find the fractional distance you need, count the spaces
across the board. This becomes the numerator (top number). Count the spaces in one inch on
the rule. This is the denominator (bottom number).
Metric rulers and scales measure in millimeters. They are typically numbered every 10 mm. A
metric rule may be further divided into 0.5 mm. Both systems may appear on the same
measuring tool.
The measuring system you choose depends on the working drawings. The title block will indicate
what system is used. It will also provide the scale of the drawing. If the scale reads 1″ = 1′-0″,
then each inch on the drawing will be 1′ on the layout.
RULE
The rule you select depends on the accuracy you need and which style you prefer. Rules may be flat,
flexible, or folding types. They are made of wood, fiberglass, plastic, metal, or cloth. Sometimes both
customary and metric measurements are found on the same rule. Flat rules are typically metal,
wood, or plastic. They may be 12″ to 48″ long. High quality wood rules have brass ends. The brass
ends are not damaged as easily as wood. Rules may also be steel or aluminum.
Special purpose rules include a centering rule, with the measuring units extending both directions
from the center zero point. This reduces the chances for error with many centering tasks.
Rigid folding rules are usually 6′ long. Metric folding rules are 2 meters long. Some have an
extension rule at one end for measuring inside distances and depths.
A flexible rule, or tape measure, is very convenient and will measure both straight lengths and
curves. It can also be used to measure inside distances, such as a doorway. To account for the size
of the tape case, add the distance indicated on the side of the case to your measurement. Most
tape cases will be printed with the amount you must add (usually 2″–3″). Some tape measures
have a window on the top to read the inside distance.
Tape measure lengths commonly used by cabinetmakers range from 12′ to 30′ (4 m to 9 m). Tape
lengths may be up to 200′ (61 m). Both US customary and metric measurements may be printed
on the tape.

SLIDE CALIPERS
Slide calipers are used to measure outside and inside distances, as well as depth. They come in
various types. A vernier scale provides the most accurate measurement but is the most difficult to
read. Dial calipers have precision gears, but wood shavings can cause problems if they get into
the gears. Digital calipers have become popular in recent years, especially because they can be
quickly switched from inches to millimeters. Outside dimensions are measured using the large jaws.
Inside dimensions
are measured with the smaller, pointed jaws. Depth measurements can be taken using either the
main jaw or depth probe.

SQUARES
There are a number of different kinds of squares. They are used for several purposes, such as:
• Checking that corners form a 90° angle (squareness).
• Serving as a straightedge.
• Measuring distances and angles.
Framing and bench squares are flat steel or aluminum. A framing square has a 24″ (610 mm)
body and a 16″ (406 mm) tongue that form a 90° angle (right angle). A bench square is smaller.
The face of the square is seen when the body is held in the left hand and the tongue in the right
hand. The back is the other side of the square. The face and back of both squares have
measurement scales and most framing squares also have tables.

Date Developed:
NC II
October 2018
cy Module 1
Developed by:
Blocks for
ure CRIS E. HIPOLITO
TRY SQUARE
Try squares have a steel blade and a steel or wood handle. Some have a 45° angle cut into the
handle. Try squares are the most reliable of all squares for accuracy. Use them for making
layouts, checking squareness, or setting up machinery.

COMBINATION SQUARE
A combination square is more versatile than a try square. It consists of a grooved blade that
slides through the handle. It can also be equipped with a protractor and a center head. You can
use a combination square for a number of purposes:
• Measure distances and depths.
• Lay out 45° and 90° angles.
• Draw parallel lines.
• Locate centers.
To lay out a parallel line, adjust the blade to the intended distance. Place a marking device such
as a pencil, scratch awl (from the handle on some squares), or knife point against the end of the
blade. While holding the marking device against the blade, slide the square down the material.

TABLES
Tables provide helpful information for commonly used measurements. Two such tables are the
brace measure table and the octagon, or eight-square scale.
The brace measure table gives diagonal measurements that show the length needed for a
diagonal piece, such as a brace, to support a shelf. The measurements are on the tongue of most
framing squares.

For example, suppose you have a 22″ wide shelf and you wish to brace it at a point 18″ from the
wall and 24″ below the shelf. Find the measurement on the table marked 18/24. You will find the
number 30 next to it. This is the proper length of the brace.

SCALES
The scales refer to customary and metric measurements. This makes the square useful as a
rule. Once a measurement is marked, the square can be used to draw a perpendicular line. It
can also be used to check the squareness of an assembly.

LAYOUT TOOLS
Layout tools transfer distances, angles, and contours. Most lack scales for measuring distances
and angles. These are set with a measuring tool. The following descriptions cover common
layout tools.

SLIDING T-BEVEL
The sliding T-bevel is used to lay out and transfer angles. Set the angle of the T- bevel with a
protractor. Loosen the locking device on the handle to move the blade. After setting the proper
angle, tighten the locking device. Besides layout, T-bevels can set the angles for table saw blades,
jointer fences, and drill press tables. If you are setting 90° angles, use a try square. T-bevels are
not as accurate as a square.
ANGLE DIVIDER
An angle divider is a layout tool consisting of two blades that move outward at an equal rate from
the body. It is used to bisect angles. The blades move apart from 0° to 90°. If the blades are
adjusted to an angle or a corner, the body bisects the angle. This angle helps when cutting miter
joints.
Angle dividers have numbers on the body and an index mark on
the adjusting nut. The numbers on the side of the nut are 30°,
45°, and 60°. Accurately aligning the index mark along these
numbers sets the blades to that angle. The numbers on the
other side of the nut are 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, and 0. These indicate
settings for polygons. Aligning the index nut at 6 will set the angle
of the blades for a hexagon (a sixsided polygon). The angle
between the blades will be 120°. The body will bisect the angle at
60°. When the index mark is set at 0, the blades form a straight
line with the body.

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CALIPERS
Calipers are used to transfer dimensions. The three types of calipers are outside, inside, and
hermaphrodite. Some are assembled with a firm (friction) joint. Others have a bow spring with an
adjusting screw and nut. Firm-joint calipers are quicker to adjust, but bow-spring calipers
maintain greater accuracy during use.

COMPASS AND DIVIDER

Compasses and dividers are similar layout tools. Both have two legs. However, a compass has
a pencil point on one leg instead of a steel point. Use compasses and dividers to:
• Step off distances.
• Bisect lines, angles, and arcs.
• Construct lines and arcs tangent to each other.
• Scribe circles, ellipses, and arcs.
• Lay out polygons.
• Cope contours, such as for fitting moulding

Marking with a compass requires some hand coordination.

Place one hand on or near the top (joint) of the compass or
divider. The other hand sets the pivot location of the steel
point.

Developed: Document No
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eloped by:
TRAMMEL POINTS
Trammel points are used for making large circles and arcs.
Two steel points are clamped on a rectangular piece of
lumber. Some have a point that can be replaced with a
pencil. This allows you to mark the wood with either a
pencil mark or a scratch. The size of the circle is limited
only by the length of wood you choose for the points to
slide on.

PROFILE GAUGE
A profile gauge is used to copy irregular shapes. Press it against a curved surface. This causes
individual pieces of wire or plastic to slide. Once shaped, the contour can be transferred to a pattern,
paper, or the material to be cut.

LAYOUT PRACTICES
Layout must be done with accuracy. Although layout tools can be used many ways, select the tool
that is best suited to your work.
MARKING POINTS
When marking a distance, the best pencil mark to make is an arrow or V. See Figure 12-
28. The point of the arrow shows the proper location. A pencil dot may be lost among the
scratches or blemishes in the wood. A short line does not tell which end of the line is the proper
measurement. When making the mark, do not press hard. Remember, any pencil marks, dents, or
scratches you make during layout must be removed later. Erase all unnecessary pencil marks.

Be sure that the rule you use is in good shape. The end should not have dents. If a corner is
damaged, begin measuring from the 10″ mark. For example, to lay out a distance of 3″, measure
from the rule’s 10″ mark to the 13″ mark. Remember to account for starting away from the end of
the rule. When using a tape, make a habit of frequently inspecting the hook for damage. If the
hook has been bent, your measurements will be incorrect. It is a good practice to have a shop
measurement standard, an object of known dimension that can be used to check the accuracy of
all tape measures. Select a material that won’t change dimension significantly due to changes in
temperature or moisture. For example, solid wood is not a good choice.

LINES
Most lines are made using a rule or square. For lines that must be parallel to the edge, use a
marking gauge, combination square, or hermaphrodite caliper.

CIRCLES AND ARCS

Compasses, dividers, and trammel points make accurate circles and arcs. To set them, place one
leg on the 1″ or 10 mm mark of a rule. Adjust the other leg according to the desired
measurement. Again, be sure to account for starting away from the end of the ru
Arcs are partial circles. The arc has a center point and radius. Set the layout tool for the radius of
the arc. Then locate the point of the tool at the arc’s center and swing the desired arc.
POLYGONS
Common polygons include triangles, squares, rectangles, hexagons, and octagons. Polygon shapes
are used for a variety of items including tabletops, mirror and picture frames, and clock faces.
Two common tools used to lay out polygons are the framing square and protractor. Set angles
on the framing square using two pieces of wood and the measurements on the tongue and body.

LAYOUT ROD
A layout rod is a record of often-used distances. Plan to make one for standard cabinets you
produce. It eliminates the need to measure repeatedly with a rule. A layout rod can also help
with machine setups. The rod is marked with important cabinet dimensions.
These may be the location of shelves, doors, and joints. Measurements are marked full size. Make
the rod slightly longer than the greatest dimension of the cabinet. The rod can be used for
height, width, and depth measurements.
A rod is made of 1 × 1 or 1 × 2 lumber. It is surfaced on all four sides. One side may contain
width measurements. A second side may contain height measurements. Other sides are used for
depth and other important dimensions.
STORY POLE
Similar to a layout rod, a story pole is used to mark the exact locations of items found in a room.
It is usually made of 1 × 3 lumber and is as long as necessary (up to the room width). A second
pole is made equal to the height of the room, or the top of the highest cabinet. In addition to
marking cabinet locations on the story pole, mark all other items in the room, such as electrical
outlets, switches, doors, windows, vents, radiators, plumbing, and light fixtures.
 MODULE CONTENT

Unit of Competency FABRICATE, INSTALL AND REMOVE WOODEN

FORMWORKS
Module Title FABRICATING, INSTALLING AND REMOVING WOODEN
FORMWORKS
Module Descriptor This unit covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes to
fabricate, install and remove wooden formworks

Summary of Learning Outcomes:

Upon completion of this module the trainee/student must be able to:
LO1. Prepare materials, tools and equipment
LO2. Lay-out and cut dimension or form sheating and stiffeners
LO3. Assemble and erect form panels and components
LO4. Erect Wooden Scaffolds
LO5. Strip form panels and dismantle scaffold
 INFORMATION SHEET 2.1-1
MEASURING, MARKING AND LAYING OUT MATERIALS

Learning Objectives
After this lesson, the learner is expected to:
1. Know the different materials for fabricating formworks and form details

A. Materials used for Formwork

Materials used for the construction of concrete formwork range from traditional
materials such as wood, steel, aluminum, and plywood to nontraditional materials
such as fiberglass. Wood products are the most widely used material for formwork.

1. Timber and Plywood Timber

and plywood are the material
used most for formwork
because it is high in quantity
whereby the material is easy to
get. Besides that , timber and
plywood can be handled better
because it is easy to cut it and fix
as a formwork. This includes the
easy handling of it .

2. Metal Panel
Metal formwork has a very high
reuse potential. So it is more
economical than timber where
repetitive work is necessary.

3. Plastic (FRP)
Another material used here is the fiberglass reinforced
plastic as a formwork. Its
functions well because :
• Moldability
• Light weight
• Strength
• Toughness

B. Construction of Forms consist of:

1. Plywood - It is made in thicknesses of 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 inch, and in
widths up to 48 inches. The 8-foot lengths are most commonly used. The
6/8- and 3/4-inch thicknesses are most economical.
2. Supporters or studs - Vertical studs make the sheathing rigid. These studs
are generally made from 2 x 4 lumber. Studs also require reinforcing when
they extend more than 4 feet.

3. Braces - Braces give the forms stability. The most common brace uses a
horizontal member and a diagonal member nailed to a stake and to the
stud or wale. The diagonal member of the brace should make a 30° angle
with the horizontal member.

4. Spacer - Spreaders must be placed near each tie wire. Spreaders are cut to
the same length as the thickness of the wall and placed between the two
sheathing surfaces of the forms.

5. Tie Wire - Tie wires hold the forms secure against the lateral pressures of
unhardened concrete. Double strands are always used. Ties keep wall
forms together as the concrete is positioned. The tie wire is made taut by
twisting it with a smooth metal rod or a spike.

6. Assorted CWN - refers to the different size of nail ranging from 1”-4” (25 mm-
100 mm) in length.

C. Formwork detail for different structural members

In concrete construction formwork is commonly provided for the following
structural members:

1. Formwork for sloping side column

It consists of
• Side Supports
• Side Planks
• Cleats

2. Wall foundations
It consists of:
• Plywood Sheeting
• Struts

3. Formwork for Wall

It consists of:
• Timber sheeting
• Vertical posts
• Horizontal members
• Rackers
• Stakes
• Wedges

7. Supporters or studs - Vertical studs make the sheathing rigid. These studs
are generally made from 2 x 4 lumber. Studs also require reinforcing when
 they extend more than 4 feet.

8. Braces - Braces give the forms stability. The most common brace uses a
horizontal member and a diagonal member nailed to a stake and to the
stud or wale. The diagonal member of the brace should make a 30° angle
with the horizontal member.

9. Spacer - Spreaders must be placed near each tie wire. Spreaders are cut to
the same length as the thickness of the wall and placed between the two
sheathing surfaces of the forms.

10. Tie Wire - Tie wires hold the forms secure against the lateral pressures
of unhardened concrete. Double strands are always used. Ties keep wall
forms together as the concrete is positioned. The tie wire is made taut by
twisting it with a smooth metal rod or a spike.

11. Assorted CWN - refers to the different size of nail ranging from 1”-4” (25 mm-
100 mm) in length.

D. Formwork detail for different structural members

In concrete construction formwork is commonly provided for the following
structural members:

1. Formwork for sloping side column

It consists of
• Side Supports
• Side Planks
• Cleats

2. Wall foundations
It consists of:
• Plywood Sheeting
• Struts

3. Formwork for Wall

It consists of:
• Timber sheeting
• Vertical posts
• Horizontal members
• Rackers
• Stakes
• Wedges
After completing one side of formwork
reinforcement is provided at the place then the
second side formwork is provided.

4. Formwork for Column

It consists of the following:
• Side & End Planks
• Yoke
• Nut & Bolts
Two end & two side planks are joined by the
yokes and bolts.

5. Formwork for Slabs & beams

It consists of:
• Sole plates
• Wedges
• Props
• Head tree
• Planks
• Batten
• Ledgers
- Beam formwork rests on head tree
- Slab form work rests on battens and joists
- If prop height are more than 8’ provide
horizontal braces

6. Formwork for Stairs

It consists of:
• Vertical & inclined posts
• Inclined members
• Wooden Planks or sheeting
• Stringer
• Riser Planks
 SELF- CHECK NO. 2.1-1

Check your mastery in materials in fabricating forms by completing the tasks

below.

MULTIPLE CHOICE: Read the statement carefully. Choose the letter of the correct
answer. Write the letter of your choice on the space provided.
1. These materials are used for most formwork because it is high
in quantity whereby the material is easy to get.
a. Earth
b. Metal Panel
c. Timber and plywood
d. Plastic
2. These material is more economical than timber where repetitive work
is necessary
a. Earth
b. Metal Panel
c. Timber and plywood
d. Plastic
3. These make the sheathing rigid and are generally made from 2 x
4 lumber.a. Braces
b. Spacer
c. Supporters
d. Tie wire
4. It gives the forms stability.
a. Braces
b. Spacer
c. Supporters
d. Tie wire
5. Which of the following is not a member of formworks for column?
a. Rackers
b. Side & End Planks
c. Yoke
d. Nut & Bolts
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 2.1-2
MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF LUMBER

LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
Upon completing this section, you should be able to:

Know The Mechanical Properties Of Lumber.

Basic understanding of mechanical properties of lumber is necessary for

concrete formwork design. Wood is different from any other structural material in that
allowable stresses of wood are different according to the orientation of the wood.

A. Bending Stresses

The figure below shows a simply supported wood beam with a concentrated
load applied at the midpoint. This process results in bending. The lumber is stressed internally to
resist the external loads. Bending in a member causes tension forces in the extreme fibers along
the face farthest from the load and causes compression in the fiber along the side closest to the
applied load. The maximum stress induced in the fibers, which occurs at the edges, is referred to
as the ‘‘extreme fiber stress in bending.’’ This stress is highly dependent on the parallel to-
grain strength of the wood in both tension and compression.

B. Modulus of Elasticity (MOE)

Modulus of elasticity is a measure of stiffness. This factor (MOE) is a relationship between the
amount of deflection in the member and the value of load applied that causes the deflection. The
amount of deflection depends on the size of the member, the span between the supports, the
load, and the particular member specie of wood. The parallel-to- grain MOE (i.e., the stiffness
when wood is pushed or pulled parallel to the wood grain) is about 30 times greater than the
perpendicular-to grain MOE.

Bending stress

C. Tensile and Compressive Strengths

Tensile strength is a measure of the ability of wood to resist pulling forces. On the other
hand, compressive strength is a measure of the ability of wood to resist pushing forces.
For clear wood (wood without defects), the tensile and compressive
strengths for parallel-to-grain loads are approximately 10 times greater than for loads
applied perpendicular to the wood grain.
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 2.1-3
ECONOMIC USE OF MATERIALS

LEARNING OBJECTIVE:

Upon completing this section, you should be able to:

Know The Economics Use Of Materials

Formwork is the largest cost component for a typical multistory reinforced concrete building.
Formwork cost accounts for 40 to 60 percent of the cost of the concrete frame and for
approximately 10 percent of the total building cost.

Timber is an economical material of formworks construction but it has a short life span. As
the reusability of timber formwork is low and it can only be reused 8-15 times, several sets of
timber formworks are needed for a high-rise building or a large project.
Hence, the cost of the formwork is high in long run.

Steel formworks might have the high cost at the beginning of the construction but as steel
formwork has a long lifespan and high reusability; it can save the cost in long run. This is
because less replacement of old formwork is needed. It can save concrete volume needed
because it can form a long span comparing to timber formwork.

A. Tips for avoiding waste construction materials

1. Study carefully the plan and detailed drawing.
2. From the given detailed drawing, you can study its different parts,
including sizes of these parts
3. Cutting lumbers, always refer to the schedule of cutting
4. Always determine the methods of measurement used in the plan for marking
5. Always remember the principles for cutting “measure twice and cut once”
6. In cutting lumber and plywoods, always use effective tools.
 SELF- CHECK NO. 2.1-3

Check your mastery in the economic use of materials by completing the tasks
below.

ENUMERATION:
1. Explain the differences of using timber formworks from steel formworks (7
points).
2. Enumerate at least three (3) in avoiding waste on construction materials used in
fabricating formworks.
 ANSWER KEY 2.1-3

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer
back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. Timber is more economical material in formwork construction but it has a

shorter life span and it can be reused 8-15 times only while steel formworks
might have the high cost at the beginning of the construction but as steel
formwork has a long lifespan and high reusability in long run because less
replacement of old formwork is needed. It can save concrete volume needed
because it can form a long span comparing to timber formwork.

2. Answers are any of the following

• Study carefully the plan and detailed drawing
• From the given detailed drawing, you can study its different parts,
including sizes of these parts
• Cutting lumbers, always refer to the schedule of cutting
• Always determine the methods of measurement used in the plan for
marking
• Always remember the principles for cutting “measure twice and cut once”
• In cutting lumber and plywoods, always use effective tools.
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 2.2-1
FORM DESIGN

LEARNING OBJECTIVE: upon completing this section, you should be able to know the
importance of formworks, factors influencing form design and
form characteristics.

Form is a temporary boarding, sheating or pan used to produce the desired shape and
size of concrete. The structural members of a building are built-up into its desired shape
and dimension through the use of forms which serve as mold for the mixed concrete.
Concrete mixture is generally semi-fluid that reproduces the shape of anything into which
it is poured. Concrete form should be water tight, strong enough and rigid
to sustain the weight of the concrete. It should be simple and economically designed in
such manner that they are easily removed and reassembled without damaged to
themselves or to the concrete.

A. Form Design
1. Importance of Formwork
 Protects the concrete
 Aids in the curing of the concrete
 Supports any reinforcing bars or conduit embedded within it
 Represents up to one-third of a concrete structure's total cost
2. Factors influencing form design
 Nature of the structure
 Availability of equipment and form materials
 Anticipated reuse of the forms
 Familiarity with construction methods that influence the formwork
design
 Strength of the forming materials and the loads they must support
 Concrete's final shape, dimensions, and surface finish

B. Form Characteristics
1. Ensure that the forms are tight, rigid, and strong. Loose forms permit loss of
cement which can result in--
 Honeycombing. Honeycombing is when the concrete is not satisfactorily
consolidated or vibrated air pockets form within the concrete and present a
pocked appearance.

 Sand streaking. Sand streaking occurs when concrete loses too much
water due to loose forms; the water carries sand with it through the gaps in
the formwork and causes streaking.
2. Ensure that the forms are braced enough to align them and strong enough to hold
the concrete.
3. Take special care in bracing and tying down forms used for configurations,
such as retaining walls. Ensure that the forms are wide at the bottom and
taper toward the top.
4. Ensure that wall forms are braced properly. The concrete in wall forms, such as
the first pour, tends to lift the form above its proper elevation.
5. Reuse forms by constructing them in a manner that allows easy removal and
replacement with minimal damage.
 SELF- CHECK NO. 2.2-1

Check your mastery in form designs by completing the tasks below.

ENUMERATION:

1. What are the importance of formworks? Give at least 2

a.
b.
2. What are the factors influencing form designs? Enumerate at least 3
a.
b.
c.
3. What are the 2 results of loose forms?
a.
b.
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 2.2-2
PREFABRICATION OF FORMWORK PANELS

LEARNING OBJECTIVE: Upon completing this section, you should be able to:

Know the different hand tools and machine used procedures in prefabricating formwork panels.

Prefabricated formwork panels are indispensable for beam and column formworks.
Prefabricated formwork panels, however, are also recommended for series
production of foundation and ceiling formworks.
In that case the construction of the panels differs from that of panels for beam and
column formworks but the technology of prefabrication is the same.

A. Hand tools and machines

• Circular saw
• hand saw
• hammer
• wrecking bar
• folding rule
• try square
• measuring rods

B. Procedure

1. Prepare the work.

Make available the tools and materials. A work table is to be manufactured

5. Enter all sizes required from the working drawing.

Derive the sizes from the dimensions of the column for which the formwork is to be
made. Prepare the size distribution of the stiffeners in particular.

3. Cut up the boards.

Locate the sizes of the forms to the plywood at both ends then using your chalk line, mark
the boundaries to be cut.. Do not place the rough edge of the board to the inside of the
formwork. Always consider the economy use of materials.

Note: If you use circular saw for cutting plywood ask the Permission of your
teacher

4. Cut the stiffeners straps to length. Use 2”X 2” lumber for the stiffener. Butt
joint is commonly used in this construction. Adopt the schedule for cutting.

5. After cutting, arrange and classify cut members ready for assembling.
 TASK SHEET NO. 2.2-2

Title: Prefabricate Form Panels and Stiffeners

Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be able to pre-
fabricate form panels and stiffeners

Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan, Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment:

• circular saw
• hand saw
• hammer
• wrecking bar
• folding rule
• try square
• measuring rods

Steps/Procedure:

1. Prepare the work.

2. Enter all sizes required from the working drawing shown below.
3. Cut up the boards.
4. Cut the stiffeners straps to length. Use 2”X 2” lumber for the stiffener. Butt
joint is commonly used in this construction. Adopt the schedule for cutting.
Note: If you use circular saw for cutting plywood ask the permission of
your teacher
5. After cutting, arrange and classify cut members ready for assembling.
Assessment Method:
Portfolio
Demonstration
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 2.3-1
ASSEMBLING FORM PANELS AND STIFFENERS

LEARNING OBJECTIVE: Upon completing this section, you should be able to:

Perform the procedures in assembling form panels and stiffeners.

A. Procedure in Assembling Form Panels and Stiffener using Plywood and

Lumber
1. Prepare all the materials and tools needed.
2. Position materials such as form sheating and stiffener correctly. The stiffener
should be consistent with standard spacing for studs or nailer with tolerance of + 10
mm. O.C.
3. Assemble form panels. Check for squareness, levelness and alignment to
specified tolerance. Make sure that the smooth side of the board is placed
outside the frame
4. Nail the form sheating to the stiffener using as many nails as necessary to
make the panel stable in itself. Fasten first the two sides of the form sheating
with the stiffeners making sure it is flushed to its edges. Then fasten the ribs
for strength at 50 cm. apart. Drive 3” CWN to fasten it.
Note: Always check for squareness.
5. Clinch the nail tips. Turn over the panel and clinch the penetrated nail tips.
6. Check form panels in compliance with job requirement.
7. Label the finished form accordingly as specified in the working drawing.

B. Procedure in Assembling Form Panels using Forming Boards

1. Prepare the work. Make available the tools and materials. A work table is to be
manufactured
2. Enter all sizes required into the working drawing. Derive the sizes from
the dimensions of the beam for which the formwork is to be made. Prepare
the size distribution of the cover straps in particular.
3. Cut up the boards. The board width should not exceeded 140 mm. Do not place
the rough edge of the board to the inside of the formwork
4. Cut the stiffening cover straps to length. Cover straps to have a width of
approx. 55 mm with 25 mm projection for comer joints!
5. Put the cover straps on the arranged boards according to the size
distribution made. Use measuring rod, if necessary!
6. Nail the cover straps on the board−panel. It is provisional nailing with
short nails (40 mm). Use as many nails as necessary to make the panel
stable in itself.
7. Nail the cover straps on the boards from the opposite side. Turn over
the provisionally nailed board−panel and nail it with 70 mm long nails. Two
nails per board are to be diagonally arranged at the cover strap joint!
8. Clinch the nail tips. Turn over the panel again and clinch the penetrated
nail tips!
 TASK SHEET NO. 2.3-1

Title: Assemble Form Panels and Stiffeners

Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be able to

assemble form panels and stiffeners

Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan, Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment:

• Hammer
• Marking Tools
• Measuring Tools
• Steel Square
• Try-square
• PPE

Steps/Procedure:
1. Prepare all the materials and tools needed.
2. Position materials such as form sheating and stiffener correctly. The
stiffener should be consistent with standard spacing for studs or nailer with
tolerance of + 10 mm. O.C.
3. Assemble form panels. Check for squareness and alignment to specified
tolerance. Make sure that the smooth side of the board is placed outside
the frame.
4. Nail the form sheating to the stiffener using as many nails as necessary to
make the panel stable in itself. Fasten first the two sides of the form
sheating with the stiffeners making sure it is flushed to its edges. Then
fasten the ribs for strength at 50 cm. apart. Drive 3” CWN to fasten it.
Note: Always check for squareness.
5. Clinch the nail tips. Turn over the panel and clinch the penetrated nail tips.
6. Check form panels in compliance with job requirement.
7. Label the finished form accordingly as specified in the working drawing.

Assessment Method:
Demonstration
 INFORMATION SHEET
2.4-1 PROCEDURES TO ERECT SCAFFOLDS

Learning Objectives: Upon completing this section, you should be able to:

Know the Procedures on How to Erect Scaffolds

Scaffolding is a raised platform that allows you to reach higher places with more stability than
a ladder. The most important part of using scaffolding safely is erecting it properly. While
there are many scaffold models, the basic assembly directions are similar. First locate flat,
stable ground to set up the scaffold. Then construct the scaffold's base for a solid foundation.
Finish up by installing the planks, ladder, and guardrails so you can work safely.

SELECTING YOUR WORK AREA

1. Select flat, level ground for your work area. For safety reasons, only set up
scaffolding on level ground. Concrete or a similar hard surface is best. Survey
your work area and find the best surface to set up on.

 If you have a concrete driveway near your work area, use this as your
foundation. A deck or parking lot will also work.
 Do not set up your scaffold underneath any power lines or wires.

2. Fill any irregularities with dirt if the ground is uneven. Not all work areas
have flat, concrete surfaces nearby. If you have to set up your scaffold on grass
or dirt, make sure the ground is level. If the area isn’t flat, use dirt or gravel to fill
in any irregularities and pat it down so the surface is even. The ground doesn't
have to be completely flat, but get rid of any dips or rises that would throw the
scaffold off balance.
a. If you have a lot of dirt on your property, collect some and use it to fill any
holes. Otherwise, buy soil or gravel from a garden supply store and
spread it on the ground to fix any irregularities.
b. Always pat down any material you use to flatten the ground so it's
packed tightly. Placing the scaffold on loose ground could cause it to slip.

3. Lay soleboards down if you’re working on grass or dirt. After making sure
the ground is flat, lay down soleboards to support the scaffold. These are flat
pieces of wood that distribute the scaffold’s weight so it doesn’t sink into the ground. If you’re
working on grass or dirt, lay out 2 soleboards so each end of the scaffold can rest on one.
 A scaffold kit may come with specialized soleboards. If not, look in
the hardware store for 2 in (5.1 cm) x 10 in (25 cm) pieces of wood
board. Get 2 of these to use as soleboards.
 The scaffold’s width should be noted on the kit. Use the listed
width as a guide for how close to space the boards.
4. Avoid building a scaffold on sloped ground. It is possible to assemble a
scaffold on sloped ground, but this is a complex job that requires leg
extensions and other supports for the structure. It’s best to leave that sort of job
to professionals. For simple maintenance projects, construct your scaffold on
flat ground.

CONSTRUCTING THE SCAFFOLD BASE

1. Lay out all the scaffolding pieces near your worksite. Prepare for the job by
placing all the necessary pieces near your worksite so you don’t have to move the
scaffold into place later. Then lay out the 2 base sections of the scaffold a few feet
apart with their bottom edges facing each other.
 Most home scaffold kits only have 1 level, so the 2 metal frames form the
base section. Multi-level scaffold kits might have additional poles that attach to the base and
create another platform.
2. Slide the adjusting screws into the scaffold base. Adjusting screws set the
height for the scaffold. A scaffold set should have 4 of them. If the scaffold forms a
square or rectangle, an adjusting screw goes into each corner. Set each screw to
the lowest level before installing it. Then slide one into the bottom of each scaffold
support pole.
 On most scaffold models, the screws slide in without any other method of
attachment. Check your model to see if there is an additional attachment for
the screws.
3. Attach baseplates if you’re only working in one place. Baseplates are flat
platforms that attach to the adjusting screws. Use them if you don’t plan on moving
your scaffold to another location while you work. Take a baseplate and fit it onto the
adjusting screw at the bottom of the scaffold. Then insert the corresponding pin to secure it in
place. Repeat this process until all 4 baseplates are attached.
 Some baseplates screw on rather than lock in with a pin. Check the
instructions to see which method your scaffold uses.
4. Install casters if you need to move the scaffold. Casters are wheels that attach
to the adjusting screws. If you’ll need to move your scaffold around to work in
different areas, use casters in place of baseplates. They attach the same way
baseplates do. Slide each one over an adjusting screw and insert a pin to lock it in
place.
 Always make sure the casters are in the locked position before using the
scaffold. Test them by pushing the scaffold. If the wheels turn, they aren’t
locked.
5. Stand each scaffold section 7 feet (2.1 m) apart. Standard scaffolds are 7 feet
(2.1 m) in length. With the baseplates attached, each section should stand on its
own. Stand each section up 7 feet (2.1 m) apart and prepare to connect them.
 If you’re working on grass, place the scaffold baseplates in the center of the
soleboard at least 6 inches (15 cm) from the end.
 If you have casters on the scaffold, the sections may not stand on their own
before they’re attached. In this case, you need a helper to hold one of the
sections up while you secure them together.
6. Connect the scaffold with cross braces. Cross braces are metal poles that
connect the scaffold sections together. There are 4 of them total, with 2 on each
side. The poles have a loop on each end that slides over a corresponding hook on
the scaffold. Pick up one of the poles and slide it into the top hook on one side.
Then attach it to the bottom hook on the other side. Repeat this with the second
pole to form an X.
 Complete the connection by repeating the same process on the opposite
side. You will then have 2 X connections, one on each side of the scaffold.
7. Raise the adjusting screws to the height you need. Before attaching the rest of
the scaffold pieces, adjust its height. Spin the adjusting screws clockwise to lower
them and counterclockwise to raise them. Adjust each one until the scaffold
allows you to reach the height you have to work at.
 Make sure that the adjustment pins are set at the same level so the scaffold
is balanced. Check that the scaffold is level before installing planks and
standing on it. Adjust the screws until the scaffold is level.
INSTALLING THE PLANKS AND GUARDRAILS

1. Hook the scaffold planks into position. Scaffold planks have hooks on each end
that loop over the bars on each base section. Stand in between the 2 base sections
and lift the plank up at an angle. Then level the plank when it’s above the base parts
and lower it down until the hooks secure over each scaffold section.
 Some scaffold models may have additional attachment guidelines. Check the
instructions for your particular model.
 Do not use plain planks of wood in a scaffold. These are too weak. Only use
specialized scaffold planks.
2. Attach the ladder so you can access the scaffold. Your scaffold kit should come
with a ladder. Most ladders attach with hooks that loop over one of the scaffold bars.
Make sure that any access point is secured properly before you use it.
 Only attach the ladder at the intended point. A different point may not be
able to support the weight.
 Different access types will have different installation instructions. Check
the manual for your scaffold to ensure you install the access properly.
3. Install guardrails on the external side of the scaffold. Guardrails are safety
features on scaffolds that prevent falls. On most scaffolds, these are 2 or 3
poles that hook around the scaffold. Attachments are usually hooks or sockets
on the scaffold rails that the guardrails fit into. Take each guardrail and secure it
to the attachments around the scaffold.
 If you’re working against a building, only install the guardrails on the sides
that don’t face the building. This gives you enough room to work.
 SELF CHECK 2.4-1

I. What are the three procedures in erecting scaffolds?

 ANSWER KEY 2.4-1

1. SELECTING YOUR WORK AREA

2. CONSTRUCTING THE SCAFFOLD BASE
3. INSTALLING THE PLANKS AND GUARDRAILS
 INFORMATION SHEET 2.5-1 REMOVING FORMWORK

Learning Objectives; After reading this information sheet, you must be able to know the order and
method of removing formwork

Stripping is the operation of removing the forms. Formwork can either be partially stripped by
removing small areas to prevent the slab from deflecting or completely stripped to allow the
slab to deflect.

As a general rule, formwork supporting members should not be removed before the strength of
concrete has reached atleast 70 percent of its design value.

A. Order and Method of Removing Formwork

1. Shuttering forming vertical faces of walls, beams and column sides should
be removed first. Shuttering form so fir to slab should be removed next.
2. Shuttering forming soffit to beams, girders or other heavily loaded member
should be removed in the end.

B. Striking

The specification will normally give guidance on when forms can be struck and these times
may be governed by the size and shape of the member, the concrete mix and the weather.

1. To strike the wall form, ties and clamps should be loosened gradually, a little
at a time.
2. To remove the props, release the props evenly in small stages starting at
the middle of the span and working out towards the supports. This an avoid
overloading of the props at the center of the span due to large deflection at
the center.
3. Always withdraw or hammer down projecting nails as the formwork is
struck from the concrete.
4. Make sure that other trades are kept away from areas below those where
striking is being done.
 TASK SHEET NO. 2.5-1
Strip formwork

Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be

able to assemble form panels and stiffeners

Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan, Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment:

• Hammer
 Crow bar
 Claw hammer
 Pliers
 Wrench
 Shovel
 Scaffolding
 Hard hat
 Hard shoes
 Goggles
 Gloves
 Circular saw
 Brooms

Steps/Procedure:
1. Prepare all the materials and tools needed.
2. Prepare staging area
3. Remove braces
4. Remove the cleats
5. Remove/pull out nails used in the four sides forms with the use of claw hammer,
claw bar, or pincer.
6. Remove tie/wires or bolts with the use of pliers or wrench.
7. Make a soft hammer strike on the form to loosen it from the concrete.

Assessment Method:
Demonstration
 INFORMATION SHEET 2.5-2
HOW TO DISMANTLE SCAFFOLDING

Learning Objectives; After reading this information sheet, you must be able to know the order and
method of dismantling scaffolding.

Scaffolding creates a safe and secure platform for people working at elevated levels. They're
often used at construction sites or on remodeling projects to provide easy access to ceilings
and building facades. Once the job is complete and it's time to remove the scaffolding,
special care must be taken in order to ensure that the job's done safely.

Step 1

Clear a nearby space to set the dismantled pieces of scaffolding down. As a scaffold is
dismantled, the components should immediately be removed from the structure and set
aside for later inspection. There should also be room enough to provide truck access to
transport the scaffolding parts to a loading area.

Step 2

Examine the entire scaffold structure. Starting with the base, make sure that the structure is
sound and that there are no visible hazards. Any ties that have been removed at an earlier time
must now be put back in place. Check each individual platform to ensure that the wood hasn't
been damaged during construction. Wood that has been damaged should be removed and
replaced.

Step 3

Put on all necessary safety gear. Safety shoes, hard hats and gloves should be worn along with
any other gear required by the site conditions. Safety harnesses should also be worn when on
the scaffold structure.

Step 4

Begin the dismantling project at the top of the scaffold. Remove the guardrail and posts first
using the necessary tools. Pass the components down from person to person in a daisy chain
formation. Make sure not to stand in a location where pieces can be dropped on you.

Step 5

Remove the remainder of the platform from the section below. The ties holding the structure
secure to the building should only be removed once the entire platform they support has
been removed. The dismantling process works exactly the same as the construction
process only in reverse.

Step 6

Examine all of the scaffolding components once they've been removed. Parts that cannot be
repaired should be set aside for later disposal as faulty equipment can lead to injury. All of the
undamaged and repairable pieces should be safely stored away for transport off site.

Tip

Avoid handing loose coupling/stacking pins by attaching them to the top of the frame below.
Keeping them fastened to the structure lessens the risk of them falling on workers below.

Warning

A safety harness should be worn at all times. The force necessary to remove components
such as ties can cause a person to loose their balance.
 INFORMATION SHEET 2.6-1
MAINTAIN AND STORE FORMWORK COMPONENTS

Learning Objectives; After reading this information sheet, you must be able to know maintain and store
formwork components

Provision must be made for the removal and storage of large sections of formwork.
A level storage area is required to store formwork after striking. They should be well cleaned
before storing because the grout remaining on the forms will become hard and stubborn
making it difficult to reuse. Metal panels need a light coating of oil before storage to prevent
rust.

All forms needed to be carefully stacked and stored. Panels of forms should be kept horizontal
and face to face. The forms and components should be clearly marked and kept together for
easy identification on reuse. A tidy store reduces wastage, damage and losses.

Cleaning

As soon as the formwork has been struck, it should be cleaned, not left until it is wasted
again.

 Timber and plywood forms should be cleaned with a stiff brush to remove
any grout; a timber scraper should be used for stubborn bits of grout.
 With glass reinforced plastics, a brush and wet cloth are all that should be
needed.
 When steel forms are to be put in store or are not going to be used for some
time, they should be lightly oiled to prevent rusting.
 Timber and untreated plywood should also have a coat of release agent
applied for protection if they are not going to be reused immediately.
 Any depressions, splits and nail holes should be repaired with plastic wood
or similar material, followed by a light rubbing down.
 Before concreting, the insides of the forms should be cleaned. Where the
forms are deep, temporary openings should be provided for inspection.
 MODULE CONTENT

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : FABRICATE/INSTALL DOOR/WINDOW

JAMBS AND PANELS

MODULE TITLE : FABRICATING/INSTALLING

DOOR/WINDOW JAMBS AND PANELS

MODULE DESCRIPTOR : This module covers the competencies in

selecting and preparing tools and materials,
fabricating door/window, jambs and panels,
fabricating jambs/panels of doors/ windows
according to plans, and installing fabricated
door/window jambs/panels and pre- fabricated
moldings.

NOMINAL DURATION : 30 hrs.

:

LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Upon completion of this module, the trainee/student must be able to:

1. Select and prepare power/hand tools and materials required in

fabricating/installing door/window jambs and panels.
2. Fabricate jambs and panels of doors/windows according to plans.
3. Install fabricated door/window jambs/panels and pre-fabricated
moldings.
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 3.1-1
WINDOW AND DOOR SYMBOLS FOR FLOOR PLAN
Learning Objective: After reading this information sheet, you must be able to
identify symbols of windows and doors in floor plans

The symbols shown below represent the common types of windows and doors used
on floor plan sketches. Knowing these symbols may help you to understand your blueprint
better.

Figure 1. Examples of different common door and window symbols shown in plan
form
 SELF-CHECK NO. 3.1-1
Check your mastery in types of doors and window symbols by completing the tasks
below.

MATCHING TYPE. Match the symbols in Column A to the type of doors/windows in

Column B. Write the letters only on the space provided before the number.

COLUMN A COLUMN B

1. a. Double , opening out window

b. Left sash over right

2. c. Double hung window

d. Double acting, single door

3. e. Single door, interior

f. Double door, interior

g. In and out doors

4.

5.
 ANSWER KEY NO. 3.1-1

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to
corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. E

2. F

3. D

4. C

5. A
 INFORMATION SHEET 3.2-1
DOORS AND WINDOWS
Learning Objective: After reading this information sheet, you must be able to identify
different types of doors and windows

A. DOORS Types

of Doors
Doors, both exterior and interior, are classified as job-built or mill- built. This
classification is further broken down as batten, panel, and flush doors.

Figure 2. Types of doors

1. Job-Built Doors
The batten door is the most commonly used and most easily constructed type of job-
built door.

2. Mill-Built Doors
The usual exterior door is the panel type (Figure 2). It consists of stiles, rails, and
filler panels. Two frequently used interior doors are the flush and the panel types.

a. Panel Doors. Panel doors consist of vertical members called stiles and
horizontal members called rails. Stiles and rails form the framework into
which panels are inserted. Additional vertical and horizontal members called
muntins are used to divide the door into any number of panels. Panels may
be solid wood, plywood, particleboard or louvered or have glass inserts.
b. Flush Doors. Flush doors have flat surfaces on both sides and consist
of a wood frame with thin sheets of material (plywood veneer, plastic
laminates, hardboard, or metal) applied to both faces. Flush doors have
either a solid or hollow core.
 Solid-core doors have a solid particle board or woodblock core which is
covered with layers of veneer. They are usually used as
 exterior doors. Solid-core doors provide better sound insulation and have less
tendency to warp.
 Hollow-core doors have a lightweight core made of various materials that
are covered with layers of veneer. They are usually used as interior doors
and are less expensive to produce.

Figure 3. Mill-built doors

3. Specialty Doors
Specialty doors include double doors, sliding doors, and folding doors.

Door Frames
Door frames are made of the following parts: the head casing, the jambs (head
and two sides), and the sill (on exterior doors only. Doors and frames may be fabricated in
the shop and installed separately; they may also be remanufactured (prehung), purchased
ready for installation. Door-frame layout calculations begin with the size of the door (height,
width, and thickness), as given on the door schedule.
 Figure 4. Principal parts of a door jamb

Construction information for door frames is usually given in detail drawings. In the
type of frame shown in Figure 4, the door jambs are rabbeted to depths of 1/2 inch
preventing the door from swinging through the frames.

Figure 5. Typical door-frame details

Exterior Door Frames
Exterior door frames are made up of two side
jambs, a head jamb, a sill, and a stop. They are
constructed in several ways. In hasty construction
(on-site prefabrication), the frames will be as shown
in Figure 5. This type requires no frame construction
because the studs on each side of the opening act
as a frame.
Studs are normally placed 16 inches apart on
center. Extra studs are added at the sides of door
and window openings.
Headers are usually used at the top and bottom of
such openings.

Figure 6. Single outside door

Interior Door Frames

Interior door frames are made up of two side jambs, a head jamb, and stop moldings
which the door closes against. Interior door frames have no sill and no casing, otherwise
they are the same as the exterior frames. Figure 6 shows the elevation of a single inside
door.

Figure 7. Singe inside door

Note: SWING - The hand of a door describes the direction in which a door is to swing and
from which side it is hinged. The hand is determined from the outside of the door. A
standard door has the hinges on the right or left and swings away from you. A reverse door
has the hinges on the right or left and swings toward you.

B. WINDOWS

Types of Windows
The most common types of windows are double-hung and hinged (or
casement) windows. All windows consist of two parts, the frame and the sash.

Figure 8. Types of windows

1. Double-hung window
Made of upper and lower sashes that slide vertically past one another. However, for
full ventilation of a room, only one-half of the area of the window can be used. Any current
of air passing across its face is lost to the room.

2. Casement windows (out-swinging or in-swinging)

May be hinged at the sides, top, or bottom. Casements have the advantage of
catching a parallel breeze and slanting it into a room.

Window Frames
Window frames are made of four basic parts: the head, the jambs (two),
and the sill. (The sash is the framework that holds the glass in the window.)
In hasty construction, millwork window frames are seldom used. Instead, simple
openings are left in the walls with the stops all nailed to the stud. The sash may be hinged
to the inside or outside of the wall or may be constructed to slide. The sliding sash with
overlapping panes is
most common in Army construction because it requires little installation time.
Sills have a usual slope of 1 to 5 inches so that they shed water quickly. They are
wider than frames, usually extending about 1 1/2 inches beyond the sheathing. They also
form a base for the outside finished casing.

Window Sashes
A window is normally composed of an upper and a lower sash. There are two
ordinary types of wood sashes: fixed or movable.
 Fixed sashes - removable only with the aid of a carpenter
 Movable sashes - may slide up and down in channels in the frame
(double-hung), or they may swing in or out and be hinged at the side
(casement type).

Sashes are classified as single or divided, according to the number of pieces of

glass (or lights). A sash may be made of 1 x 3 material with reinforced, rolled plastic material,
which can be cut to any desired size.

Joints
Window sashes may be made with open mortise, four tenons, and with rails tenoned
into stiles; with half-lap corners; or with butt joints or corrugated fasteners. In either of the
first two cases, the joints may be nailed or glued.

Accessories
Window screens - Screen sash is usually 3/4-inch stock; however, for large windows and
doors 1 1/8-inch material is frequently used or 3/4-inch lumber is braced with a horizontal
member.
 SELF-CHECK NO. 3.2-1
Check your mastery in types of doors and window by completing the tasks below.

IDENTIFICATION. Answer the following questions by writing the letter of your

choice on the space provided before the number.

1. This door consists of vertical members called stiles and horizontal members
called rails. Additional vertical and horizontal members called muntins and are
used to divide the door into any number of panels.
a. Job-built doors
b. Panel doors
c. Flush doors
d. Specialty doors
2. These type of doors have flat surfaces on both sides and consist of a wood
frame with thin sheets of material (plywood veneer, plastic laminates,
hardboard, or metal) applied to both faces.
a. Job-built doors
b. Panel doors
c. Flush doors
d. Specialty doors
3. This type of window have the advantage of catching a parallel breeze and
slanting it into a room.
a. Casement window
b. Double-hung window
c. Double opening out window
d. Single, opening-in window
4. Made of upper and lower sashes that slide vertically past one another.
However, for full ventilation of a room, only one-half of the area of the window
can be used. Any current of air passing across its face is lost to the room.
a. Casement window
b. Double-hung window
c. Double opening out window
d. Single, opening-in window
5. Window frames are made of four basic parts. Which of the following is
not included?
a. Head
b. Jambs (2)
c. Sash
d. Sill
 ANSWER KEY NO. 3.2-1

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to
corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. B
2. C
3. A
4. B
5. C
 INFORMATION SHEET 3.2-2
DOOR JAMB CONSTRUCTION

Learning Objective: after reading this information sheet, you must be able to
fabricate and install door jamb.

Door jambs are the linings of the framing in door openings. The casing and stops are
nailed to the door jambs, and the door is hung from them. Door openings should allow 1/2
inch between the frame and the jamb (Figure 8-8, page 8-6) to permit plumbing and leveling
of jambs.
Inside jambs are made of 3/4-inch stock; outside jambs are made of 1 3/8- inch stock. The
width of the stock varies with the thickness of the walls.
Inside jambs are built up with 3/8- x 1 3/8-inch stops nailed to the jamb. Outside jambs are
usually rabbeted to receive the door.

Jambs are made and set as follows:

Step 1. Cut the side jambs of an entrance door to the height of the door, less the depth of
the head jamb rabbet (if any), plus the:
 Diagonal thickness of the sill, plus the sill bevel allowance.
 Thickness of the threshold, if any.
 Thickness of the head jamb.
 Height of the side-jamb lugs.
Step 2. Cut the head jamb to the width of the door, less the combined depths of the side-
jamb rabbets (if any), plus the combined depths of the head-jamb dadoes
(grooves).
Step 3. Level the floor across the opening to determine any variation in floor heights at
the point where the jambs rest on the floor.
Step 4. Cut the head jamb with both ends square. Allow the width of the door plus the depth
of both dadoes and a 3/16-inch door clearance.
Step 5. From the lower edge of the dado, measure a distance equal to the height of the
door plus the clearance required under it. Mark it and cut it square. On the
opposite jamb, do the same. Make additions or subtractions on this side for floor
variations, if any.
Step 6. Nail the side jambs and jamb heads together with 8d common nails, through the
dado into the head jamb.
 Figure 9. Door Jambs

Figure 10. Jamb allowance

Step 7. Set the jambs into the opening. Place small blocks on the subfloor under each jamb.
Blocks should be as thick as the finished floor
 will be. This allows room for the finished floor to go under the door.
Step 8. Plumb the jambs and level the jamb head. Wedge the sides with shingles between
the jambs and the studs, to align them. Nail them securely in place. Take care
not to wedge the jamb unevenly. Use a straightedge 5 or 6 feet long inside the
jambs to help prevent uneven wedging.
Step 9. Check the jambs and the head carefully. Jambs placed out of plumb will tend to
swing the door open or shut, depending on the direction in which the jamb is out of
plumb.
 SELF-CHECK NO. 3.2-2

Check your mastery in interpretation of plans and details by completing the tasks
below.

IDENTIFICATION. Complete the sentence by choosing your answer on the phrases

below. Write your answer on the space provided.

Check the jamb Cut Measure the distance Nail

the head the side jamb Plumb the
Cut the head jamb Cut jambs
the side jambs Level Set the jambs
the floor

1. of an entrance door to the height of the door, less

the depth of the head jamb rabbet (if any).
2. to the width of the door, less the combined depths
of the side-jamb rabbets (if any), plus the combined depths of the head-
jamb dadoes (grooves).
3. across the opening to determine any variation in
floor heights at the point where the jambs rest on the floor.
4. jamb with both ends square. Allow the width of the
door plus the depth of both dadoes and a 3/16-inch door clearance.
5. From the lower edge of the dado, equal to the
height of the door plus the clearance required under it. Mark it and cut it
square. On the opposite jamb, do the same. Make additions or subtractions
on this side for floor variations, if any.
6. and jamb heads together with 8d common nails,
through the dado into the head jamb.
7. into the opening. Place small blocks on the subfloor
under each jamb. Blocks should be as thick as the finished floor will be. This
allows room for the finished floor to go under the door.
8. and level the jamb head. Wedge the sides with
shingles between the jambs and the studs, to align them. Nail them
securely in place. Take care not to wedge the jamb unevenly. Use a
straightedge 5 or 6 feet long inside the jambs to help prevent uneven
wedging.
9. _____________________ and the head carefully. Jambs placed out of
plumb will tend to swing the door open or shut, depending on the direction
in which the jamb is out of plumb.
ANSWER KEY NO. 2.2-2

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to
corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. Cut the side jambs

2. Cut the head jamb
3. Level the floor
4. Cut the head
5. Measure the distance
6. Nail the side jamb
7. Set the jambs
8. Plumb the jambs
9. Check the jambs
 JOB SHEET NO. 2.2-2
Title: Fabricate Door Jamb
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to fabricate door jamb
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan 2”x6”x39”
Lumber

Tools and Equipment:  Hammer  Hand saw

 Marking Tools  Chalk Line
 Measuring Tools  PPE
 Wood chisel  Circular Saw
 Try-square  Table saw
Steps/Procedure:

1. Plane and squaring stocks to dimension. Typically, 2”x6” of lumber is

used. (Refer to Operation Sheet No. 4.2-5 on Plane and square stock to
dimension)
2. Cut the side jambs to its length. The standard height of door is
2.10 meters. This means the sides of the door jamb need to be
2.20 meters to allow for the thickness of the header and for the threshold
less the depth of the rabbet which is normally 5mm.
3. Rabbet the jambs and the header. The width of the rabbet should be
the thickness of the door to be installed.
4. Cut the header according to the width of the door to be installed. Add
the combined thickness of the two side jambs less the depths of the
rabbets.
5. Use slipped miter joint to connect the
three pieces together. Secure the side jambs
to the header by using wood glue and 8d nails
as fasteners.
6. Check the squareness of the assembles
pieces using framing square. Temporarily
secure the three pieces using diagonal corner
braces to keep it square at the head and
stretcher near the bottom to keep the jambs
set apart at the correct width.
ACTIVITY:
From the given working drawing below, fabricate model door jamb.
Note: All measurements are in metric.

Assessment Method:
Performance Criteria Checklist
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 3.2-3

WINDOW SASHES

Learning Objective: After reading this information sheet, you must be able to know
the parts of a window sash and follow the steps in constructing window sash

STEPS IN CONSTRUCTING WINDOW SASHES

Step 1. Make two frames with the glass substitute installed on one.
Step 2. Nail the frames together. When the two frames are nailed together, they should be
turned so that the joints are not over each other. This staggers the joints and
strengthens the sash. Do not make the window sash larger than the available
glass substitute. If the sash is too large for the glass substitute to cover, a muntin
may be placed in the sash to hold the glass substitute; this should be fastened
with corrugated metal fasteners. Where long sashes are made, a muntin should
be placed in the center for added strength. Figure 9, shows the window frame
and sash details.
Step 3. Cut the side pieces to a length equal to the height of the sash, less the width of one
piece of material.
Step 4. Cut the top and bottom pieces the same length as the window, less the width of the
material.
Step 5. Fasten at the joints with corrugated metal fasteners.

Figure 11. Window frame and sash details

 SELF-CHECK NO. 3.2-3
Check your mastery in window sash by completing the tasks below.

IDENTIFICATION: Identify the parts of the window by writing your answer on the
space provided.
 ANSWER KEY NO. 3.2-3

Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to
corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. DRIP CAP
2. TOP RAIL
3. SASH
4. MULLION
5. BOTTOM RAIL
6. SIDE CASING
7. STILE
8. STOP BEAD
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 3.3-1
DOOR INSTALLATION
Doors, both mill-built and job-built, are installed in the finished door frames as
described in the following steps:

Step 1. Cut off the stile extensions, if any.

Step 2. Plane the edges of the stiles until the door fits tightly against the hinge side and
clears the lock side of the jamb by about 1/16 inch. Be sure that the top fits
squarely to the rabbeted recess and that the bottom swings free of the finished
floor by about 1/2 inch. The lock stile of the door must be beveled slightly (Figure
1) so that the edge of the stile will not strike the edge of the door jamb.

Figure 12. Horizontal sections

showing closing edge of door

Figure 13.
Hanging a door
 Figure 14. Horizontal sections showing
hanging edge of door

Step 3. After proper clearances have been made,

tack the door in position in the frame and
wedge it at the bottom.
Step 4. Mark hinge positions with a sharp-pointed
knife on the stile and the jamb. Hinge
positions on the stile must be placed
slightly higher than the lower door rail
and slightly lower than the upper door rail to avoid cutting out part of the door-rail
tenons that are housed in the stile. Three measurements must be marked:
 location of the butt on the jamb
 location of the butt on the door
 thickness of the butt on both the jamb and the door

Step 5. Door butts (or hinges) are mortised into the door
frames as shown in Figure 4. Use three butt
hinges on all full-length exterior doors to
prevent warping and sagging. Place the butts
and mortise them with the utmost accuracy so
that the door will open and close properly, and
so that the door, when open, will not strike the
casing. The butt pin must project more than
half its thickness from the casing.

Figure 15. Hinge positions

 Figure 16. Door butt (hinge)

Step 6. Using the butt as a pattern, mark the butt dimension on the door edge and face of
the jamb.
Step 7. Cut the marked areas, called gains, on the door jambs and door to fit the butts.
Use a 1-inch chisel and mallet.

Figure 17. Cutting the housings using the

chisel-chopping method, prior to chisel-
paring

Gain is the cutout or mortise made to receive a leaf of the hinge. The depth is
determined by the hinge's thickness, and the width is determined by the hinge's size.
Setback is the distance that the hinge is placed away from the side of the door,
usually 3/16 inch.
Step 8. Test the gains. The butts must fit snugly and exactly flush with the edge of the door
and the face of the jamb.
Step 9. Screw half of each of the butt joints on the door and the other three parts on the
jamb. Place the butts so that the pins are inserted from the top when the door is
hung.
Step 10. Set the door against the frame so that the two halves of the top butt engage. Insert
the top pin. Engage and insert pins in the bottom and center butts.

Figure 18. Installing door butts (hinges)

Door Stops
a. When fitting doors, the stops are usually nailed in place temporarily until the
door has been hung
b. Stops for doors in single-piece jambs are generally 1/2 inch thick and 2 inches
wide. They are installed with a butt joint at the junction of the side and head
jambs.
c. A 45° bevel cut at the bottom of the stop, about 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the
finish floor, will eliminate a dirt pocket and make cleaning or refinishing the
floor easier.
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 3.3.1
Title: Install Door
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to install door.
Supplies and Materials: Door Jamb, Lumber, Door hinge
Tools and Equipment:  Hammer  Try-square
 Marking Tools  Hand saw
 Measuring Tools  PPE
 Wood chisel  Circular Saw
Steps/Procedure:

1. Plane the edges of the stiles until the door

fits tightly against the hinge side and clears
the lock side of the jamb by about 1/16 inch.
Be sure that the top fits squarely to the
rabbeted recess. The lock stile of the door
must be beveled slightly so that the edge of
the
stile will not strike the edge of the door jamb.
2. After proper clearances have been made, tack the door in position in the
frame.
3. Mark hinge positions on the stile and the jamb. Hinge
positions on the stile must be placed slightly higher
than the lower door rail and slightly lower than the
upper door rail to avoid cutting out part of the door-
rail tenons that are housed in the stile.
4. Door hinges are mortised into the door frames.
Place the butts and mortise them with the utmost accuracy so that the door
will open and close properly, and so that the door, when open, will not strike
the casing. The butt pin must project more than half its thickness from the
casing.
5. Using the butt as a pattern, mark the butt dimension on the door edge
and face of the jamb.
6. Cut the marked areas, called gains, on the door jambs and door to fit the
butts. Use a 1-
inch chisel and mallet.
 7. Test the gains. The butts must fit snugly and exactly
flush with the edge of the door and the face of the
jamb.
8. Screw half of each of the butt joints on the door and
the other three parts on the jamb. Place the butts so
that the pins are inserted from the top when the door is
hung.
9. Set the door against the frame so that the two halves of
the top butt engage. Insert the top pin. Engage and
insert pins in the bottom and center butts.

ACTIVITY:
From the given working drawing below, install door on fabricated door jamb on
Job Sheet No. 2.2-2.
Note: All measurements are in metric.

Assessment Method:
Performance Criteria Checklist
 INFORMATION SHEET 3.3-2
DOOR TRIM

Door trim is nailed onto the jambs to provide a finish between the jambs and the wall
to cover wedging and spaces between the frame and studs. This trim is called casing. Sizes
vary from 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick and from 2 1/2 to 6 inches wide. Most trim has a concave back
to fit over uneven plaster. The casing layout depends on the way the side and head casings
are to be joined at the corners. The casings are usually set back about 1/4 inch from the
faces of the jambs. Care must be taken to make miter joints fit properly.

Door openings are cased up as follows:

Step 1. Leave a margin of 1/4 inch from the edge of the jamb to the casing, all around. Cut
one (hinge-side first) of the side casings square and even with the bottom of the
jamb. Cut the top or mitered end next, allowing a 1/4-inch margin at the top.
Step 2. Nail the casing onto the jamb, even with the 1/4-inch margin line.
Start at the top and work toward the bottom. Use 4d finishing nails along the jamb
side and 6d or 8d case nails along the outer edge of the casings. The nails along
the outer edge will need to be long enough to go through the casing and into the
studs. Set all nail heads about 1/8” below the surface of the wood with a nail set.
Step 3. Apply the casing for the other side and then the head casing.

Figure 19. Door trim and stop

 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 3.3-3
DOOR LOCK INSTALLATION

Types of Locks

 Cylinder locks are sturdy, heavy-duty locks designed for

installation in exterior doors. They provide high security.
 Tubular locks are light-duty locks. They are used for interior doors
on bathrooms, bedrooms, passages, and closets.

Steps in Installing Door Lock (For other type of lock, use lock-set installation
instructions)

Step 1. After placing the hinges in position, mark off the position of the lock on the lock
stile, 36 inches from the floor level.

Step 2. Hold the case of the mortised lock on the face of the lock stile. With a sharp
knife, mark off the area to be removed from the edge of the stile that is to
house the entire case.

Step 3. Mark the position of the door-knob hub and the position of the key.

Step 4. Mark the position of the strike plate on the jamb.

Step 5. Bore out the wood to house the lock and the strike plate and mortises.

Step 6. Clean and install the lock set. The strike plate should be flush or slightly below
the face of the door jamb. Panic hardware is another type of lock. It is also
known as a paretic bar or fire-exit bolt. It is often installed on the exit doors of
public buildings.
Slight pressure on the touch bar will retract the latch bolts at the top and bottom.
Install panic hardware according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Figure 20. Installing lock and strike plate
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 3.3-3
Title: Install Door Knob/ Door Lock
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to install door knob/lock
Supplies and Materials: Installed door frames on jamb (Job Sheet 2.2-
2; Operation Sheet No. 2.3-1)
Door Knob/Door Lock set
Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Saw set
• Marking Tools • PPE
• Measuring Tools
• Screw driver
Steps/Procedure:
1. After placing the hinges in position, mark off the position of the lock on
the lock stile, typically 36 inches from the floor level. For this project get
the center of the 8” stile.
2. Hold the case of the mortised lock on the face of the lock stile. With a sharp
knife, mark off the area to be removed from the edge of the stile that is to
house the entire case.
3. Mark the position of the door-knob hub and the position of the key.

4. Mark the position of the strike plate on the jamb.

5. Bore out the wood to house the lock and the strike plate and
mortises.
 6. Clean and install the lock set. The strike plate should be flush or slightly
below the face of the door jamb.

Assessment Method:
Performance Criteria Checklist
 MODULE CONTENT

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Install ceiling and wall frames and panels

MODULE TITLE : Installing ceiling and wall frames and

panels

MODULE DESCRIPTOR : This module covers the knowledge, skills and

attitude in selecting, checking and preparing
materials and tools in installing ceilings, wall
frames, panels.

LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Upon completion of this module, the trainee/ student must be able to:

1. Select, check and prepare materials and tools in installing l

ceilings, wall frames and panels.

2. Establish lay -out of wall and ceiling pattern and,

3. Install ceiling, and wall frame and panels according to job requirements.
 INFORMATION SHEET 4.1 -1

INTERPRETATION OF PLANS AND DETAILS

LEARNING OBJECTIVE: Upon completing this section, you should be able to recognize
the different types of drawings and their uses.

CONSTRUCTION DRAWINGS
Generally, construction or "working" drawings furnish enough information for
the Builder to complete an entire project and incorporate all three main groups of
drawings -architectural, electrical, and mechanical.
Normally, construction drawings include the detail drawings,
assembly drawings, bill of materials, and the specifications.
Construction drawings consist mostly of right -angle and
perpendicular views prepared by draftsmen using standard technical drawing
techniques, symbols, and other designations . The first section of
the construction drawings consists of the site plan, plot plan, foundation plans,
floor plans, and framing
plans. General drawings consist
of plans (views from above) and
elevations (side or front views)
drawn on a relatively small s cale.
Both types of drawings use a
standard set of architectural
symbols. Figure 1 illustrates the
conventional symbols for the
more common types of material
used on structures. Figure 2
shows the more common
symbols used for doors and
windows. Study these symbols
thoroughly before proceeding
further in this chapter.

Figure 1 . Architectural symbols for plans and elevations.

 Figure 2 . Architectural symbols for doors and windows.

A. Site Plan
A site plan shows the contours,
boundaries, roads, utilities, trees,
structures, and any other significant
physical features on or near the
construction site. The locations of
proposed structures are shown in outline.

Figure 3 . Site plan

B. Plot Plan
The plot plan shows the survey
marks with the elevations and the
grading requirements. The plot plan is
used by the Engineering Aids to set
up the corners and perimeter of the
building using batter boards and line
stakes, as shown in Figure 4.
Thus, the plot plan furnishes the
essential data for laying out the
building.

Figure 4 . Plot plan

C. Foundation Plan
A foundation plan is a plane view of a structure. That is, it looks as if it
were projected onto a horizontal plane and passed through the structure. In the
case of the foundation plan, the plane is slightly below the level of the top of the
foundation wal l.

Figure 5 . Foundation plan

D. Floor Plan
An architectural or structural floor plan shows the structural
characteristics of the building at the level of the plane of projection. A
mechanical floor plan shows the plumbing and heating systems and any other
mechanical components other than those that are electrical. An
electrical floor plan shows the lighting system and any other electrical systems.

Figure 6 . Shows the way a floor plan is developed: from elevation, to cutting
plane, to floor plan.

Figure 7 is a floor plan

showing the lengths,
thi cknesses, and character of
the outside walls and
partitions at the particular floor
level. It also shows the
number, dimensions, and
arrangement of the rooms, the
widths and locations of doors
and windows, and the
locations and character of
bathroom, kitch en, and other
utility features.

Figure 7 . Floor plans

E. Elevations
The front, rear, and sides of a structure, as they would appear projected on
vertical planes, are shown in elevations. Studying the elevation drawing gives you a
working idea of the appearance and layout of the structure.

Figure 8 . Elevations for a smal l

F. Framing Plans
Framing plans show the size, number, and location of the structural
members (steel or wood) that make up the building framework. Separate framing
plans may be drawn for the floors, walls, and roof.
 The floor framing plan must specify the sizes and spacing of joists,
girders, and columns used to support the floor.

Figure 9 . Floor framing plan

  Wall framing plans show the location and method of framing openings
and ceiling heights so that studs and posts can be cut.
 Roof framing plans show the construction of the rafters used to span
the building and support the roof. Size, spacing, roof slope, and all
details are shown.

G. Sectional Views
Sectional views, or sections, provide important information about the height,
materials, fastening a nd support systems, and concealed features of a structure.

Figure 10 . Typical small building cutting -plane A-A and section developed from
the cutting plane

Typical sections represent the

average condition throughout a structure and
are used when construction features are
repeated many times. Figure 10 shows
typical wall section A -A of the foundation
plan in Figure 5.

Figure 11 . A typica l section of a masonry

building

H. Details
Details are large -scale drawings that
show the builders of a structure how its
various parts are to be
connected and placed. Detail drawings are used whenever the information
provided in elevations, plans, and sections is not clear enou gh for the
constructors on the job.
The construction of doors, windows, and eaves is customarily shown
in detail drawings of buildings. Typical door and window details are shown
in Figure 12.

Figur e 12 . Door and window details

 SELF- CHECK NO. 4.1 -1
Check your mastery in interpretation of plans and details by completing the
tasks below.

MULTIPLE CHOICE : Identify the types of plans on the following statement. Choose
the letter of the correct answer.

1. It shows the contours, boundaries, roads, utilities, trees, structures, and

any other significant physical features on or near the construction site.
a. Floor plan c. Plot plan
b. Foundation plan d. Site plan
2. This plan shows the survey marks with the ele vations and the grading
requirements. It is used by the Engineering Aids to set up the corners
and perimeter of the building using batter boards and line stakes.
a. Floor plan c. Plot plan
b. Foundation plan d. Site plan
3. It is a plane view of a structure. That is, it looks as if it were projected
onto a horizontal plane and passed through the structure.
a. Floor plan c. Plot plan
b. Foundation plan d. Sectional view
4. This shows the structural characteristics of the building at the level of
the plane of projection.
a. Architectural / structural floor plan c. Elevation
b. Details d. Sectional view
5. The front, rear, and sides of a structure, as they would appear projected
on vertical planes, are shown in this drawing . This drawing gives you a
working idea of the appearance and layout of the structure.
a. Architectural / structural floor plan c. Elevation
b. Details d. Sectional view
6. Plan showing the size, number, and location of the structural members
(steel or wood) that make up the building framework.
a. Architectural / structural floor plan c. Framing plan
b. Elevation d. Sectional view
7. It provides important information about the height, ma terials, fastening
and support systems, and concealed features of a structure.
a. Architectural / structural floor plan c. Framing plan
b. Elevation d. Sectional view
8. These are large -scale drawings that show the builders of a structure how
its various pa rts are to be connected and placed.
a. Details c. Framing plan
b. Foundation plan d. Sectional view
 INFORMATION SHEET 4.1 -2

MATERIALS SPECIFICATIONS

LEARNING OBJECTIVE: Upon completing this section, you should be able to recognize the
different specification of materials used in finishing carpentry .

The primary components used in frame construction are lumber and

hardware. This section includes information on the types a nd sizes of
lumber as well as a description of various metal fasteners.

A. Lumber

Lumber varies greatly in structural characteristics. A carpenter must learn

about lumber so that he can choose the most suitable material for
each job

1. Grades

Lumber, as it comes from the sawmill, is divided into three main

classes: yard lumber , structural material and factory and shop lumber . It
is classified on the basis of quality. The carpenter must choose a quality
that is suitable for the intended purpose. At the same time, he must exercise
economy by not choosing a better (and therefore more expensive) grade than
is required.

Lumber is subdivided into classifications of select lumber and common

lumber.

 Select Lumber - Select lumber is of good appearance and finishing. It

is identified by the following grade names for comparison of quality:
o Grade A is suitable for natural finishes and is practically clear.
o Grade B is suitable for natural finishes, is of high quality, and is
generally clear.
o Grade C is suitable for high -quality paint finishes.
o Grade D is suitable for paint finishes between high -finishing
grades and common grades and has somewhat the nature of both.

 Common Lumber - Common lumber is suitable for general

construction and utility purposes. It is identified by the following
grade names for comparison of quality:
No. 1 common is suitable for use without waste, it is sound and tight knotted,
and it may be considered watertight lumber.
o No. 2 common is less rest ricted in quality than No. 1, but of the
same general quality. It is used for framing, sheathing, and other
structural forms where the stress or strain is not too great.
o No. 3 common permits some waste, and it is lower in quality than
No. 2. It is used for such rough work as footing, guardrails, and
rough flooring.
o No. 4 common permits waste, is of low quality, and may have
coarse features such as decay and holes. It is used for sheathing,
subfloors, and roof boards in the cheaper types of construction,
but its most important industrial outlet is for boxes and crates.
o No. 5 common is not produced in some kinds of lumber. It is used
for boxes, crates, and dunnage, for which the quality requirement
is very low.

Table 1. C ode for surfaced lumber

Code Meaning
S1E SURFACED 1 EDGE
S2E SURFACED 2 EDGES
S1S SURFACED 1 SIDE
S2S SURFACED 2 SIDES
S1S1E SURFACED 1 SIDE AND EDGE
S2SIE SURFACED 2 SIDES AND 1 EDGE
S1S2E SURFACED 1 SIDE AND 2 EDGES
S4S SURFACED 4 SIDES

2. Uses of Lumber

a. Frames. Building frames are the wood forms constructed to support

the finished members of a structure. These include posts, girders
(beams), scabs, joists, subfloors, sole plates, girts, knee braces, top
plates, and rafters. No. 2 common lumber is used for framing . Heavy
frame components, such as beams and girders, are made by
combining several pieces of framing material.
b. Walls. The exterior wall of a frame structure usually has three layers:
sheathing, building paper, and siding. Sheathing and siding lumber
are normally grade No. 2 common softwood, which is with solid knots,
no voids. Siding is either vertically or horizontally applied. Theater
construction may limit available material to lap siding for both
horizontal and vertical surfaces. For local procurement, there are
several types of drop and bevel siding, which is applied horizontally.
3. Sizes

Lumber is usually sawed into standard dimensions (length, width, and

thickness). This allows uniformity in planning structures and in ordering
materials . Table 2 the common widths and thicknesses of wood in rough
and in dressed dimensions in the US. Standards have been established for
dimension differences between the quoted size of lumber and its standard sizes
when dressed.

Quoted size refers to dimensions prior to surfacing. These dimension

differences must be taken into consideration. A good example of the
dimension difference is the common 2 x 4. As shown in Table 2, the familiar
quoted size 2 x 4 is the rough or nominal dimension, but the actual dressed size is 1
1/ 2 x 3 1/ 2 inches. Lumber is sawn in standard sizes used for light
framing .

 Thickness: 1, 2, and 4 inches.

 Width: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 inches.
 Length: 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, and 20 feet.

The actual dimensions of dressed

lumber are less than the sawn
dimensions because of drying and
planing (or finishing). For the relative
difference between s awn (standard or
nominal) dimensions and actual sizes of
construction lumber, see Table 2.

Table 2 . Nominal and dressed sizes

of lumber

Plywood is usually 4 x 8 feet and

varies from 1/ 8 to 1 inch in thickness.
B. Hardware

A wide variety of fasteners are used for frame construction in the TO.
These fasteners are all made of metal. They are classified as nails, screws,
bolts, driftpins, corrugated fasteners, and timber connectors.

1. Nails - Nails are the most commonly used items that are under the
classification of rough hardware. Nails come in different sizes and are
divided into general types:

a. Wire Nails. Wire nails are divided into five main types:
 Finishing Nails - The head of a finishing nail is only slightly larger
in diameter than the body of the nail so that it can be embedded
(set) into the surface of the wood. There is a slight depression on
the top of the head to prevent the nail set from slipping off the
head. The small hole that is made in the wood is filled with putty
or some other type of filler to hide the nail when the surface is
finished.

Figure 1 3 . Finishing nail

 Casing Nails - similar in appearance to the finishing nail. The
head, however, is slightly larger and has no depression in the top.
These nails are used to nail doors and window casings in place.

Figure 1 4 . Casing nail

 Box Nails - used in box construction or whenever there is a
possibility of splitting the wood with a common nail. The head of a
box nail is somewhat thinner and larger in diameter than the head
of a common nail. Box nails are sometimes coated with a special cement
to give them better holding quality.

Figure 1 5 . Box nail

 Common Nails - have a thick flat head used for most phases of
building construction.

Figure 1 6 . Common nail

  Duplex-Head or Double -Headed Nails - used in temporary
construction such as form work and scaffolding. The advantage of
using this type of nail is easy remova l. It has a collar that keeps
the head away from the wood, and the claw of the hammer can
easily engage the head for removal.

Figure 1 7 . Duplex -head or double -headed nail

b. Cut Nails. Cut nails are wedge -shaped with a head on the large end
(Figure 19). They are often used to nail flooring because they have
good holding power and are made of very hard steel.

Figure 1 8 . Cut nail

c. Special Nails. Rustproof nails are sometimes used when the head is
exposed to the weather. The head often rusts and causes a b lack
streak along the grain of the wood, even though it is painted.
Therefore, it is desirable to use a nail that will not rust. Plain wire
nails that have a zinc coating are often used where there is a
possibility of rusting. These are called galvanized n ails (such as a
roofing nail).

d. Drywall Nails. Drywall nails are used for hanging drywall and have a
special coating to prevent rust.

Figure 19 . Drywall nail

e. Masonry (Concrete ) Nails. Masonry nails are available in lengths
from 1/ 2 inch to 4 inches, with a single head. These nails are usually
hardened steel. Concrete nails are thicker and are used to fasten
metal or wood to masonry or concrete.

Figure 20 . Masonry nail

 Sizes

Nail sizes are given by penny number from two penny to sixty penny .
A small letter d is the recognized abbreviation for penny. The penny number refers
to the length of the nail. Nails are normally packaged in 50 -pound
boxes. Table 4 gives the general sizes and types of nails preferred for specific
applications.

Table 3. Nail sizes

Table 4 . Sizes, types, and uses of nails

2. Screws - Screws are another means of fastening one member to
another. Screws have some advantages over nails. They have greater
holding power, present a neater appearance, and have more decorative
possibilities than nails. They also have the advantage of being easi ly
removed or tightened. Screws are usually either slotted -head or
Phillips head (Figure 21).

a. Phillips Head. Phillips head screws require a special screwdriver for

driving them. Some advantages of Phillips head screws are that the
screwdriver does not slip out easily and that the head is not as apt to
break as that of a conventional type screw.

Figure 21 . Slot ted and Phillips head

b. Wood Screws. Wood screws are made of iron, bronze, brass, copper,
or other metals; however, some are coated with nickel or chrome to
match special -finish hardware. The main types of wood screws are
roundhead, oval head, and flathead, which can be either slotted or
Phillips head.
 Roundhead Screws - used on a surface where the heads will show.
The head is not countersunk, and for this reason it should have a
pleasing finish -either blued or polished. If slotted -head, the screw
slot should always be left in a parallel position to the grain of the
wood.

Figure 22 . Roundhead screw

 Oval-head Screws - used to fasten hinges or other finish hardware
to wood. If slotted -head, the screw slots of these screws should be
parallel to each other for better appearance.

Figure 23 . Flathead screw

 Flathead Screws - used where the head will not show. The head
should be countersunk until it is level with or slightly below the
 finished surface. If flathead screws are used on an exposed area, they
should be countersunk in a hole that can be plugged.

Figure 24 . Flathead screw

 Other Screws
o Lag Screws - Lag screws are longer and heavier than the
common wood screw and have coarser threads. They have
square and hexagon heads. They are used when ordinary wood
screws would be too short or too light and spikes would not be
strong enough.

Figure 25 . Lag screws

o Drive Screws - Special screws, made to be driven with a
hammer, are called drive screws (Figure 26). They may have a
roundhead but are usually made with a flathead, and they may
have no slot for a screwdriver. (They also come in larger sizes
with square or round heads.) The threads are far apart. Drive
screws are available in the same size as wood screws .

Figure 26 . Drive screw

o Special Screws. Many special hanging and fastening devices
have a screw -type body (Figure 27). The screw eye is often used
on picture frames, screen doors, and many other items. The
curved screw hook and square screw hooks are m ainly used for
hanging articles. The
curved screw hook is usually
used in the ceiling, while the
square screw hook is more
often used on vertical walls.

Figure 27 . Special screws

c. Sheet -Metal Screws . Like wood screws, sheet -metal screws can also
be slotted or Phillips head. They are used for the assembly of metal
parts. They are steel or brass with four types of heads: flat, round,
oval, and fillister.

Figure 28 . Sheet metal screws

d. Pilot and Starter Holes. Prepare the wood for receiving a screw by
baring a pilot hole (the size of the diameter of the screw) into the piece
of wood. A smaller, starter hole is then bored into the piece of wood
that is to act as anchor or hold the threads of the screw. The starter
hole has a diameter less than that of the screw threads and is drilled
to a depth 1/ 2 or 2/ 3 the length of the threads to be anchored. This
method (shown in Figure 29) assures accuracy in placing the screws
and reduces the possibilit y of splitting the wood.

Figure 29 . Sinking a wood screw

e. Covering Material. Both slotted and Phillips flathead screws are
countersunk enough that a covering material can be used.
 Figure 30 . Screw-covering material

3. Anchors - Fastening wood or other materials to concrete or other

materials has always been a task for carpenter's. Anchors (fasteners)
for such work can be divided into three general categories. The first
group includes anchors installed during the initial construct ion. The
second group includes anchors installed in solid concrete or masonry
after construction is completed. The third group includes anchors
installed in masonry, plastic, or drywall that has a hollow space
behind it.

a. Anchor Bolts . Anchor bolts a re

used to fasten sills to masonry
foundations. These bolts are used to fasten
the sill to the footers. Anchor bolts are
installed when placing the footer while the
concrete is still wet.

Figure 31 . Anchor bolt installation

b. Expansion Anchor Bolts . Lead screws, plastic anchors, and lag

expansion shields all work with the same basic idea. Drill a proper
size hole and insert the expansion shield into the hole. The insertion
of the screw or lag bolt expands the fastener to provide a secure hold.

Figure 32 . Expansion anchor bolt

c. Molly Universal -Screw Anchors . Molly fasteners provide a solid
means of attaching fixtures to interior walls. A hole is drilled the same
size as that of the outside diameter of the fastener. These fasteners are
designed to expand be hind the wall covering.

Figure 33 . Molly universal screw anchors

4. Bolts - Bolts are made of steel with either round, square, or octagon
heads and threaded shanks. The threads may run the full length of
the bolt, or they may stop a certain distance from the head, leaving a
smooth upper shank. Bolts are used to fasten timber, steel, or other materials.
They range in diameter from 3/ 16 to 1 ½ inches, and in lengths from 3/ 4 to 30
inches. They are available in three main styles: stove bolts, machine bolts, a
nd carriage bolts.

a. Stove Bolts . Stove bolts are used mostly with small items of
hardware. Roundhead or flathead stove bolts range in length from 3/ 8
to 6 inches. They are used in light construction.

Figure 34 . Stove bolts

b. Machine Bolts . Machine bolts are used in woodwork. They usually
have square heads and square nuts. A metal washer is usually used
under both the head and the nut. These washers prevent the head
from embedding into the wood and keep the nut from tearing the wood
fibers as it is t urned. Two wrenches are required when tightening
machine bolts.

Figure 35 . Machine bolts

c. Carriage Bolts . Carriage bolts are like machine
bolts except for the heads, which are round (Figure
36). The shank of the carriage bolt has a square
portion, which is drawn into the wood to prevent
the bolt from turning as the nut is tightened. A washer is
used under the nut, but not under the head of this bolt.

Figure 36 . Carriage bolts

d. Toggle Bolts . Toggle bolts are used to fasten fixtures to hollow walls.
The two types of toggle bolts are the pivot type and the spring -wing
type. Both types have heads similar to those of ordinary wood screws.
Both come in various sizes.

 Pivot -Type. The pivot -type has a bent -steel channel with the nut
slightly off -center so that one end of the channel is heavier than
the other. A hole is drilled into the hollow wall or block. The heavy
end of the nut drops down at a right angle to the bolt when it is
inserted into the hole. The nut will pull up tight against the drywall
or block as the bolt is tightened.

Figure 37 . Pivot -type toggle bolt

 Spring -Wing Type. Spring -wing type toggle bolts are made like the
pivot type except that the wing is hinged in t he center. It is held
open with a small spring and is closed while inserting it into the
hole. It snaps open when it enters the hollow cavity of the wall.

Figure 38 . Spring -wing toggle bolts

 SELF- CHECK NO. 4.1 -2

Check your mastery in material specification s by completing the tasks below.

IDENTIFICATION: Identify the type of materials identified in the following

stateme nt. Choose your answer from the items below.

Wood screws Anchor bolts Pivot

drive screws -type Carriage
4ftx8ft bolts Grade A
No. 1 common lumber Common
Finishing nail nail

1. This type of lumber is suitable for natural finishes and is practically

clear
2. This type of common lumber is suitable for use without waste, it is
sound and tight knotted, and it may be considered watertight
lumber.
3. Plywood is usually of this size and varies from 1/ 8 to 1 inch in
thickness.
4. The head of this nail is only slightly larger in diameter than the body
of the nail so that it can be embedded (set) into the surface of the
wood.
5. This nail has a thick flat head used for most phases of building
construction.
6. Screws made of iron, bronze, brass, copper, or other metals, some
are coated with nickel or chrome to m atch special -finish hardware .
7. Special screws, made to be driven with a hammer
8. This is u sed to fasten sills to masonry foundations.
9. Bolts that are like machine bolts except for the heads, which are round
10. This bolt has a bent -steel channel with the nut slightly off -center so
that one end of the channel is heavier than the other.
 LEARNING OBJECTIVE: Upon completing this section, you should be able to
compute for board foot from a given dimensions.

The amount of lumber required is measured in board feet . A board foot

(BF) is a unit measure representing an area of 1 foot by 1 foot, 1 inch thick. Thus, a
board that is 1 inc h thick, 1 foot wide, and 1 foot long measures 1 board foot. A
board that is 1 inch thick, 1 foot wide, and 12 feet long measures 12 board feet.

A. Methods of computing BF

1. . Rapid Estimate. You can estimate BF rapidly by using Table 5. For

example, reading the table, you can see that if a 2-inch by 12 -inch board
is 16 feet long, your board feet would be 32.

Table 5 . Board feet

2. . Arithmetic Method. To determine the number of BF in one or more

pieces of lumber use the following formula:
NOTE: If the unit of measure for length is in inches, divide by 144
instead of 12.

Sample Problem 1: Find the number of BF in a piece of lumber 2 inches thick,

10 inches wide, and 6 feet long (Figure 40).

Sample Problem 2: Find the number of BF in 10 pieces of lumber 2 inches

thick, 10 inches wide, and 6 feet long.

Sample Problem 3: Find the number of BF in a piece of lumber 2 inches thick,

10 inches wide, and 18 inches long.

Figure 39 . Lumber dimensions

3. Tabular Method. The standard Essex board measure table (Figure 40)
is a quick aid in computing BF. It is located on the back of the blade of
the framing square. In using the board measure table, make all computations
on the basis of 1 -inch thickness. The inch markings along the outer edge of the
blade represent the width of a board 1 inch thick. The
third dimension (length) is provided in the vertical column of figures under the
12 -inch mark.
 Figure 40 . Essex board measure table
Sample Problem: To compute the number of BF in a piece of lumber that is 8
inches wide, 14 feet long, and 4 inches thick -

1. Find the number 14 in the vertical column under the 12 -inch

mark.
2. Follow the guideline under number 14 laterally across the blade
until it reaches the number on that line that is directly under the
inch mark matching the widt h of the lumber.

Example: Under the 8 -inch mark on the guideline, moving left from 14, the
numbers 9 and 4 appear (9 and 4 should be on the same line as 14).
The number to the left of the vertical line represents feet; the number to the right
represents i nches.

3. The total number is 37 1/ 3 BF. BF will never appear in a decimal

form.

Example solution: 1" x 4" x 8' x 14' Feet Inches

NOTE: 1" x 4" = Always multiply the number of pieces by the thickness and
multiply the feet and inches by the sum of pieces an d thickness.
 SELF- CHECK NO. 4.1 -3
Check your mastery in board foot computation by completing the tasks
below.

A. Compute for the board foot of the given measurements.

Board Foot Size (BF) Board Foot Size (BF)

1. 1” x 4” x 6’ = 7. 2” x 6” x 8’ =

2. 2” x 4” x 12’ = 8. 2” x 6” x 6’ =

3. 1” x 10” x 8’ = 9. 1” x 4” x 12’ =

4. 2” x 6” x 16’ = 10. 1” x 14” x 10’ =

5. 4” x 4” x 8’ = 11. 4” x 4” x 12’ =

6. 6” x 6” x 6’ = 12. 6” x 6” x 16’ =
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 1.2 -1
FLOORING
LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
Upon completing this section, you should be able to identify the different
parts of flooring and its types.

Flooring consists of the subfloor , underlayment and finish floor .

Depending upon the type of finish floor or subfloor used, underlayment may not
be required. Where 25/ 32 -inch tongue and grooved wood strip flooring is used, it
may be laid directly over the subfloor , Figure 42 . Where lesser thicknesses of wood
strip flooring are used, the thickness and grade of subflooring must be
adequate to support end joints at full design load, unless they occur over
joists. Underlayment is normally applied over the
sub -floor where resilient tile, sheet vinyl or carpet is used as the finish floor
surface.

Figure 41 . Wood strip flooring

A. Subfloors - The sub -floor usually consists of plywood, particleboard or

other wood structural panels, or board lumber. Lumber sub -flooring is
typically laid diagonally to permit wood strip finish flooring to be laid
either parallel with or at right angles to, the floo r joists. End -joints in
sub -flooring are cut to occur over joists.

Wood structural panels are typically installed with the long dimension at right angles
to the joists and with the panel continuous over two or more spans. Spacing between
panels should be approximately 1/ 8 inch.
B. Underlayment - Underlayment panels are applied over sub -flooring to
provide a smooth surface for application of carpeting and other resilient
floor coverings. Application of finish floor coverings is generally by
specialists who follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the
carpet, resilient tile or vinyl products.

C. Finish Floors - these are usually applied to a structural base but may
form part of the floor structure as in the case of floor boards. Most
finishes ar e chosen to fulfi ll a particular function such as:
 Appearance - chosen mainly for their aesthetic appeal or effect but
should however have reasonable wearing properties. Examples are
carpets; carpet tiles and wood blocks.
 High Resistance - chosen mainly for their wearing and impact
resistance properties and for high usage areas such as kitchens.
Examples are quarry tiles and granolithic paving.
 Hygiene - chosen to provide an impervious easy to clean surface with
reasonable aesthetic appea l. Examples are quarry tiles and polyvinyl
chloride (PVC) sheets and tiles.

1. Wooden Floors. Wooden floors

must be framed with one main
purpose in mind they must be
strong enough to carry the load.
The type of building and the use
for which it is intended
determines the general
arrangement of the floor system,
thickness of the sheathing, and
appr oximate spacing of the
joists.

Figure 42 . Methods of nailing

tongue -and-grooved flooring

Types of Wood Flooring

 Strip Flooring - Hardwood finish flooring; narrow tongue -and-
groove strips; commonly maple, mahogany, oak, etc.

 Plank Flooring – Flooring made of long, wide, square -sawn

thick piece of timber called planks; the specifications vary, but
often the minimum width is 8” (200 mm), and the minimum
thickness is 2” to 4” (50 to 100 mm) for softwood and 1” (25
mm) for hardwood.
  Parquet Fl ooring – Inlaid wood flooring usually set in simple
geometric patterns.

 Parquet Tile Flooring – parquet units glued to paper to form

tiles for flooring. The tiles are glued to the cement floor face
down; when dry, paper is wet and stripped off the tile s urface;
sanded and primed to finish.

Figure 43 . Types of wood flooring

2. Concrete Floors. Concrete floors may be constructed for shops which

earthen or wooden floors are not suitable, such as in repair and
assembly shops for airplanes and heavy equipment and in any kinds
of warehouses. These floors are made by pouring the concrete on the
groun d after the earth has been graded and tamped. This type of floor
is likely to be damp unless protected. Drainage is provided, both for
the floor area and for the area near the floor, to prevent flooding after
heavy rains. The floor should be reinforced wit h steel or wire mesh.
Where concrete floors are to be poured, a foundation wall may be
poured first and the floor poured after the building is completed. This
gives protection to the concrete floor while it sets and eliminates the
waiting period before con struction of the building.

3. Miscellaneous Floors. These types of floors include earth, adobe

brick, duckboard, or rushes. Miscellaneous flooring is used when
conventional materials are unavailable or where there is a need to save
time or labor. Such floor s may be used if facilities are temporary or if
required by the special nature of a structure. Selection of material is usually
determined by availability.

Duckboard is widely used for shower flooring. Earthen floors are common;
they conserve both materi als and labor if the ground site is even without
extensive grading. Rush or thatch floors are primarily an insulating measure
and must be replaced frequently.
 SELF- CHECK NO. 4.2 -1
Check your mastery in flooring by completing the tasks below.

A. IDENTIFICATION. Read the statement carefully. Identify what is being described in

the statement below. Write your answer on the space provide.

1. Usually consists of plywood, particleboard or

other wood structural panels, or board lumber and is typically lai d
diagonally to permit wood strip finish flooring to be laid either parallel with or at
right angles to, the floor joists.

2. Applied over sub -flooring to provide a smooth

surface for application of carpeting and other resilient floor coverings.

3. Chosen mainly for their aesthetic appeal or

effect but should however have reasonable wearing properties.

4. Flooring made of long, wide, square -sawn thic k

piece of timber, the specifications vary, but often the minimum width is 8” (200
mm), and the minimum thicknes s is 2” to 4” (50 to 100
mm) for softwood and 1” (25 mm) for hardwood.

5. Inlaid wood flooring usually set in simple

geometric patterns.
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2 -2
WALL SHEATS

LEARNING OBJECTIVE: Upon completing this section, you should be able to identify the
Application of wallboard to various types of ceiling and types of ceiling coverings

After completing the framework of a building, fasten a covering, known

as sheathing , to it. Sheathing includes exterior wall sheathing, finish
siding, and interior wall sheathing .

1. Exterior Wall Sheathing. Sheathing is nailed directly onto the

framework of the building. It is used to strengthen the building; provide a
base wall to which finish siding can be nailed; act as insulation; and, in
some cases, be a base for further insulation . Some common types of
sheathing include wood, gypsum board, and plywood.

a. Wood Sheathing. Wood sheathing may be nailed on horizontally or

diagonally . However, diagonal application adds much greater strength
to the structure. If the sheathing is to be put on horizontally, start at
the foundation and work toward the top. If it is to be put on
diagonally, start at the corner of the building and work toward the
opposite wall.

Figure 44 . Horizontal and diagonal sheating

b. Gypsum Board. The long edges of the 4 by 8 boards are tongue -and-
grooved. Gypsum board can be nailed (together with the wood siding)
directly to the studs. Gypsum sheathing is fireproof, water resistant,
and windproof. It does not warp or absorb water and does not requ ire
the use of building paper.
 c. Plywood . Plywood is highly recommended for wall sheathing because
of its weight, strength, and structural properties. Plywood is most
commonly used because it adds a lot more strength to the frame than
using diagonally appli ed wood boards. It comes in 4 -feet-wide and 5 -
to 8 -feet-long sheets, 1/ 4 to 3/ 4 -inch thick. Install the sheets with the
face grain parallel to the studs (see Figure 45). It is usually applied
vertically from the floor to the ceiling. When plywood is corre ctly
applied (with flush joints), the joints do not need to be concealed.
However, to improve wall appearance, joints may be covered with
moldings. These may be battens fastened over the joints or applied as
splines between the panels. Less -expensive plywo od can be covered
with paint or covered in the same way as plastered surfaces.

Figure 45 . Gypsum and p lywood sheathing

2. Finish Siding. Finish siding is the outside wood finish of the wall. Only
board siding made of long, narrow boards will be covered in this section.

a. Vertical Wood Siding. Vertical wood siding is nailed securely to girts

with 8d or 10d nails. The cracks are covered with wood strips called
battens . To make this type of wall more weatherproof some type of tar
paper or light -roll roofing may be applied between the siding and the
sheathing.

Figure 46 . Vertical wood siding

b. Horizontal Wood Siding. Horizontal wood siding is cut to various
patterns and sizes to be used as the finished outside surface of a
structure. It should be well -seasoned lumber. Siding is made in sizes
ranging from 1/ 2 inch to 1 inch by 12 inches. Two types of siding
are beveled and drop .

Figure 47 . Horizontal wood siding

 Beveled Siding. Beveled siding is made with beveled boards, thin at
the top edge and thick at the butt . It is the most common form of
wood siding It comes in 1 inch for narrow widths and 2 inches and
over for wide types. It is nailed to solid sheathing, over which building
paper has been attached.

Figure 48 . Beveled siding

 Drop Siding. Drop siding is used as a
combination of sheathing and siding or
with separate sheathing. It comes in a
wide variety of face finishes and is either
shiplapped or tongue -and-grooved .
When sheathing is not used, the door and
window casings are set after the siding is
up. If sheathing is used and then building
paper is added, drop siding is applied with
beveled siding, after the window and door
casings are in place.
Figure 49 . Drop siding
3. Interior Wall Coverings. Interior wall coverings are divided into two
general types: wet wall material (such as plaster) and drywall material
(including wood, sheetrock, plywood, and fiberboard).

a. Drywall. Sheetrock, fiberboard, and plywood usually comes in 4 -foot-

wide and 5 - to 8 -footlong sheets, 1/ 4 to 3/ 4 inch thick. Drywall is applied in
either single or double thicknesses with panels placed as shown in Figure 10 .
When covering both walls and ceilings, always start with the ceilings.
Use annular ringed nails when applying finished -joint drywall to reduce nail
pops.

Figure 50 . Drywall placement

 SELF- CHECK NO. 4.2 -2

Check your mastery in wall sheating by completing the tasks below.

A. IDENTIFICATION. Read the statement carefully. Identify what is being

described in the statement by choosing your answer below. Write your
answer on the space provide.

Beveled siding Finish siding Drywall

Drop siding Sheating Plywood

1. After completing the framework of a building, fasten a

covering, known as .
2. This is highly recommended for wall sheathing
because of its weight, strength, and structural
properties.
3. This is the outside wood finish of the wall.
4. It is made with beveled boards, thin at the top edge and
thick at the butt . It is the most common form of wood
siding .
5. It is made from either s heetrock , fiberboard, or plywood
that usually comes in 4 -foot-wide and 5 - to
8-footlong sheets, 1/ 4 to 3/ 4 inch thick and is applied
in either single or double thicknesses .
 MODULE CONTENT

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Install wooden floor support and panels

MODULE TITLE : Installing wooden floor support and panels

MODULE DESCRIPTOR : This module covers the knowledge, skills and

attitude in wooden floor support panels.

LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Upon completion of this module, the trainee/ student must be able to:

1. Select, check and prepare materials and tools in installing l

floor system and panels.

2. Establish lay -out of floor support system and panels according to job requirements
 INFORMATION SHEET 5.1-1
FLOORING
LEARNING OBJECTIVE:
Upon completing this section, you should be able to identify the different
parts of flooring and its types.

Flooring consists of the sub-floor, underlayment and finish floor .

Depending upon the type of finish floor or subfloor used, underlayment may not be
required. Where 25/ 32 -inch tongue and grooved wood strip flooring is used, it may
be laid directly over the subfloor, Figure 42. Where lesser thicknesses of wood strip
flooring are used, the thickness and grade of subflooring must be adequate to
support end joints at full design load, unless they occur over joists. Underlayment is
normally applied over the sub -floor where resilient tile, sheet vinyl or carpet is used
as the finish floor surface.

Figure 41 . Wood strip flooring

A. Subfloors - The sub -floor usually consists of plywood, particleboard or

other wood structural panels, or board lumber. Lumber sub -flooring is
typically laid diagonally to permit wood strip finish flooring to be laid
either parallel with or at right angles to, the floo r joists. End -joints in
sub -flooring are cut to occur over joists.

Wood structural panels are typically installed with the long dimension at right angles
to the joists and with the panel continuous over two or more spans. Spacing between
panels should be approximately 1/ 8 inch.
B. Underlayment - Underlayment panels are applied over sub -flooring to
provide a smooth surface for application of carpeting and other resilient
floor coverings. Application of finish floor coverings is generally by
specialists who follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions for the
carpet, resilient tile or vinyl products.

C. Finish Floors - these are usually applied to a structural base but may
form part of the floor structure as in the case of floor boards. Most
finishes ar e chosen to fulfi ll a particular function such as:
 Appearance - chosen mainly for their aesthetic appeal or effect but
should however have reasonable wearing properties. Examples are
carpets; carpet tiles and wood blocks.
 High Resistance - chosen mainly for their wearing and impact
resistance properties and for high usage areas such as kitchens.
Examples are quarry tiles and granolithic paving.
 Hygiene - chosen to provide an impervious easy to clean surface with
reasonable aesthetic appea l. Examples are quarry tiles and polyvinyl
chloride (PVC) sheets and tiles.

1. Wooden Floors. Wooden floors

must be framed with one main
purpose in mind they must be
strong enough to carry the load.
The type of building and the use
for which it is intended
determines the general
arrangement of the floor system,
thickness of the sheathing, and
appr oximate spacing of the
joists.

Figure 42 . Methods of nailing

tongue -and-grooved flooring

Types of Wood Flooring

 Strip Flooring - Hardwood finish flooring; narrow tongue -and-
groove strips; commonly maple, mahogany, oak, etc.

 Plank Flooring – Flooring made of long, wide, square -sawn

thick piece of timber called planks; the specifications vary, but
often the minimum width is 8” (200 mm), and the minimum
thickness is 2” to 4” (50 to 100 mm) for softwood and 1” (25
mm) for hardwood.
  Parquet Fl ooring – Inlaid wood flooring usually set in simple
geometric patterns.

 Parquet Tile Flooring – parquet units glued to paper to form

tiles for flooring. The tiles are glued to the cement floor face
down; when dry, paper is wet and stripped off the tile s urface;
sanded and primed to finish.

Figure 43 . Types of wood flooring

2. Concrete Floors. Concrete floors may be constructed for shops which

earthen or wooden floors are not suitable, such as in repair and
assembly shops for airplanes and heavy equipment and in any kinds
of warehouses. These floors are made by pouring the concrete on the
groun d after the earth has been graded and tamped. This type of floor
is likely to be damp unless protected. Drainage is provided, both for
the floor area and for the area near the floor, to prevent flooding after
heavy rains. The floor should be reinforced wit h steel or wire mesh.
Where concrete floors are to be poured, a foundation wall may be
poured first and the floor poured after the building is completed. This
gives protection to the concrete floor while it sets and eliminates the
waiting period before con struction of the building.

3. Miscellaneous Floors. These types of floors include earth, adobe

brick, duckboard, or rushes. Miscellaneous flooring is used when
conventional materials are unavailable or where there is a need to save
time or labor. Such floor s may be used if facilities are temporary or if
required by the special nature of a structure. Selection of material is usually
determined by availability.

Duckboard is widely used for shower flooring. Earthen floors are common;
they conserve both materi als and labor if the ground site is even without
extensive grading. Rush or thatch floors are primarily an insulating measure
and must be replaced frequently.
 SELF- CHECK NO. 1.2 -1
Check your mastery in flooring by completing the tasks below.

A. IDENTIFICATION. Read the statement carefully. Identify what is being described

in the statement below. Write your answer on the space provide.

1. Usually consists of plywood, particleboard or

other wood structural panels, or board lumber and is typically lai d
diagonally to permit wood strip finish flooring to be laid either parallel with
or at right angles to, the floor joists.

2. Applied over sub -flooring to provide a smooth

surface for application of carpeting and other resilient floor coverings.

3. Chosen mainly for their aesthetic appeal or

effect but should however have reasonable wearing properties.

4. Flooring made of long, wide, square -sawn

thic k piece of timber, the specifications vary, but often the minimum width is
8” (200 mm), and the minimum thicknes s is 2” to 4” (50 to
100 mm) for softwood and 1” (25 mm) for hardwood.

5. Inlaid wood flooring usually set in simple

geometric patterns.
 MODULE CONTENT

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Install built-in/pre-fabricated

Cabinets
MODULE TITLE : Installing Built In/Pre- Fabricated Cabinets

MODULE DESCRIPTOR : This module covers the knowledge, skills

and attitude in preparing materials, tools and equipment
for installing built-in and/or pre-fabricated cabinets,
fabricating/assembling built-in cabinet components
and/or pre-fabricated cabinet, assembling and installing
built-in and pre- fabricate cabinet components.

LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Upon completion of this module, the trainee/student must be able to:

1. Prepare materials, tools and equipment for installing built-in and/or pre- fabricated
cabinets;

2. Fabricate/assemble built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet ; and,

3. Assemble and install built-in and pre-fabricate cabinet components.

 INFORMATION SHEET 6.1-1
MILLWORK DRAWINGS

Learning Objective:
After Reading This Information Sheet, You Must Be Able To Identify Plans And
Working Drawings

The term millwork refers to custom; shop-built, wood components designed for
interior finish construction. It is typical to both residential and commercial work. The project
interior designer or architect designs and then produces the drawings for such items. They
are included in the set of construction drawings for the job.

Each item designed for a project is detailed. A plan view, a front elevation
(view), rear elevation, side elevations, sections and enlarged details explain the
design. Dimensions and notes are added to describe construction and finishes.
Figure 1. Millwork drawing

Some project only requires a few fixtures. The detailing of these will often be
incorporated into other pages of the construction drawings. Trim is shown on interior wall
elevations with the desired profile provided. A floor fixture might be detailed on the same
page as the plan or on another drawing.
 Projects, which involve many items, will require several pages to cover them all.
These drawings pages are usually grouped together and included at the end of the
architectural set of drawings.

Drawing notes and finish schedules provide specify the type, solid or plywood
veneer, maple, pine, oak, etc. and the finish.

The following is an example of a millwork drawing. The drawing has been reduced to
fit on this page. It is only to provide an overview, not to shown any specific information.

Figure 2. Millwork drawing with finish schedule

Some typical notes on a millwork drawing are:

1. 3/ 4” thick plywood gable with p. lam. finish (symbol) applied to all surfaces
and edges
2. 3/4” thick melamine (symbol) adjustable shelves with matching finish applied
to all edges
3. metal pilaster strips c/w metal shelf clips (4) per shelf 3/4” thick plywood door
with p. lam. finish (symbol) c/w concealed hinges and 3” satin chrome ‘D’ pull
4. 3/4” thick oak veneer plywood end gable (symbol)
 5. Shop drawings must be provided for approval by the designer prior to
manufacturing

The symbol shown in the notes above represents where a finish symbol is placed.
These finish symbols such, as “PL-1” in a rectangle is a reference. A specification is listed
for each in a Finish Schedule. The specification is by manufacturer, model number, color,
size, etc, or as required to describe the item.
 SELF-CHECK NO. 6.1-1

Name of Trainee: Date:

IDENTIFICATION. Study the drawing of a built-in cabinet illustrated below. Identify what is
being ask from the drawing by writing your answer on the space provided.

1. Maximum height of the

countertop in millimeter

2. Height of utility outlet from

center line

3. Width of adjustable countertop from

back of knee space in millimeter

4. Material used in frame (typical

section)

5. Backsplash height in milimeter

Date Document No.

Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSA October 22,
2010 Page 10 of
T QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Cabinets Glenn F.
Salandanan Revision #
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 6.1-2
MATERIALS AND SPECIFICATION

Learning Objective: After Reading This Information Sheet, You Must Be Able To
Identify Materials Consistent To Job Requirements.

INTRODUCTION

In cabinetmaking, those characteristics of wood with which we are concerned differ

somewhat from those characteristics of wood with which we are concerned when we are
dealing with frame construction. For example, in cabinetmaking, beauty and finishing
qualities are the determining factors rather than strength.

Many beautiful hardwoods are strong. Being strong and naturally beautiful, they are
favored for cabinetwork.

In this section you will learn the types of wood used in cabinetwork and the
characteristics of each type. After studying these characteristics, you should be able to
identify and select the proper wood for a particular job. The most desirable woods for
cabinetwork should:
• Have the ability to keep their shape without shrinking, warping, or
swelling.
• Be easily workable with tools and machinery without causing rough
surfaces
• Be strong, with suitable grain characteristics that are pleasing to the eye

CLASSIFICATION OF LUMBER

Softwoods
Many softwoods are used in cabinetmaking. Among these, white pine is one of the
most useful of all. It is also easy to work, because it has a uniform grain and holds its shape
well. White pine is soft, light, and of medium strength. It splits easily but holds nails fairly
well. It also takes glue well. The grain is not prominent; therefore, it has no particular beauty.
For this reason, coupled with its ability to hold paint, it is most often painted.

Hardwoods
Hardwoods are used extensively for fine furniture and cabinets. Their strength, plus
beauty and ability to take clear finishes (varnish and lacquer), makes them ideal for the
finest products of the cabinetmaker.
There are many types of hardwoods; however, we will cover only the principal ones.
Walnut is one of the finest of cabinet woods, because the grain is porous and varies
from straight to irregular. Walnut works well with tools, finishes smoothly, and holds glue and
stain well. It is a hard, strong wood and is easily identified by its dark heartwood. It is used
extensively for plywood, veneers, furniture, and millwork.
Mahogany is not a native wood; therefore, all species are imported. Most varieties
come from Central America, Africa, and India. It is a hard, strong wood; however, the
hardness can vary with the species. Color can vary in shade, but generally speaking, it is
reddish brown. Mahogany has a close, varying grain, causing a pleasing reflection of light. It
is used chiefly for fine furniture, plywood panels, veneers, and interior finishes.
Oak is a very hard, strong wood with two main species: white and red. Unless it is
carefully seasoned, it will warp and check; however, once it is worked to a finish it is without
rival for strength and beauty. Oak bends excellently, holds nails well, finishes smoothly, and
holds glue satisfactorily. The grain is coarse and porous; and when quartersawed, the
medullary rays are broad and numerous, making pleasing patterns. It takes stain very well,
making beautiful grain contrasts, and is used for interior finishes, flooring, plywood panels,
veneers, and furniture. Oak sometimes is used in boatbuilding where strength is required.

Plywood
Today plywood is used for thousands of products, and the average person comes
into contact with it every day. It, too, is used extensively in cabinetwork. Modern plywood
consists of veneers that are fabricated
with glues. In simple terms, it consists of
three or more layers of thin wood firmly
glued together, with the grain direction of
the middle layer at right angles to the
outer layers. By this means of fabrication,
swelling and shrinking is reduced and
stability and strength are added, qualities
which would not be found in the original
material.

Figure 3. Grain Direction in a sheet of

plywood
 Two Basic Types of Plywood

1. Exterior Plywood - Exterior plywood is bonded with waterproof glues. It can be

used for siding, concrete forms, and other constructions where it will be
exposed to the weather or excessive moisture.
2. Interior plywood is bonded with glues that are not waterproof. It is used for
cabinets and other inside construction where the moisture content of the
panels will not exceed 20 percent. Finishing plywood presents no unusual
problems; it can be sanded or texture coated with a permanent finish or left to
weather naturally.

Plywood is made in thicknesses of 1/8 inch to more than 1 inch, with the common
sizes being 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 inch. A standard panel size is 4-feet wide by 8-feet
long. Smaller size panels are available in the hardwoods.

There is probably no other building material as versatile as plywood. It is used for

concrete forms, wall and roof sheathing, flooring, box beams, soffits, stressed-skin panels,
paneling, shelving, doors, furniture, cabinets, crates, signs, and many other items.

Wood used in cabinetwork consists of a variety of hardwoods, softwoods, and

plywood. When selecting materials for cabinets, you should select the type best suited for
the job you are doing. That is, don't use the highest grade of lumber or the best grade of
plywood to construct a cabinet that is to be used for storage.

Table 1. Classification of Softwood Plywood Rates Species for Strength and Stiffness
Bill of Materials and Cutting List

Before beginning the work of laying out, a complete list must be made of all the
different pieces of lumber needed for a job. Such a list is called “bill of material” or a
“finished-stock list.” It is made out directly from the drawing, which shows the dimensions of
each piece and the method of construction.
A bill of material specifies the wood to be used, lists the number of pieces needed,
gives the exact dimensions for each piece, and names the part of the construction for which
it is to used, such as sides, legs, or top.
For cabinet works the dimensions are given in inches and in the following order:
thickness, width, length. Usually the length is the greatest dimension, but there are cases
that the width is greater the length.
A rough-stock list or a cutting list usually is made from the finished- stock list by
adding 1/8 in. to the thickness, ¼ in. to the width, and ½ in. to the length. This is to allow for
planing and squaring. No allowance is made for plywood.
Lumber for building purposes is sawed and planed to various standard dimensions.
Planed lumber is slightly less in thickness and width than rough-sawed lumber. From 1/16 to
1/8 in. is allowed for each planed surface. Therefore, a planed 1 in. board is only 7/8 or
13/16 in. thick. The symbol S2S, used by lumber dealers, means surfaces or dressed on two
sides. Lumber for cabinet is sold in odd widths and short lengths and at a lower price than is
charged for standard width and lengths.

Figure 4. Pictorial
Drawing of Built-in
Book Shelves
Table 2. Bill of materials
FINISH LIST CUTTING (ROUGH) LIST
No.
of Thicknes Kind of Name Widt Lengt
Width Length Thickness
Piece s Material of Part h h
s
12 3/4 2 68 ½ cherry sides 7/8 2¼ 69
3/4 6 22 bottom
6 cherry 7/8 6¼ 22 ½
Rails
3/4 3 22 Middle
6 cherry 7/8 3¼ 22 ½
rails
3/4 5½ 22 Top
6 cherry 7/8 5¼ 22 ½
rails
3/4 20 ½ 45 ½ Cherry Panels
6 ¼ 20 ½ 45 ½
plywood
3 3/4 20 ½ 16 ½ Cherry panels ¼ 20 ½ 16 ½
Plywood

Table 3. Cutting List of Built-it Book Shelves

 SELF-CHECK NO. 6.1-2

Name of Trainee: Date:

TRUE OR FALSE. Read the statement carefully. Write TRUE if the statement is true and
FALSE if the statement is false. Write your answer on the space provided before the
number.

1. Many softwoods are used in cabinetmaking.

2. Hardwoods are used extensively for fine furniture and cabinets.

3. Mahogany has a close, varying grain, causing it to split easily.

4. Plywood is used extensively in cabinetwork. It is used also for concrete

forms, wall and roof sheathing, flooring, box beams, soffits, stressed-
skin panels, paneling, shelving, doors, furniture, cabinets, crates,
signs, and many other items.

5. Finishing plywood cannot be sanded nor texture coated with a

permanent finish.
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.1-2
Title: Re-Checking Material for Correct
Specifications
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to re-check materials for correct
specifications
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Sample
Materials (Lumber)
Equipment:

Steps/Procedure:

1. Study carefully the working drawing/plan provided to you.

2. Look for the overall dimensions and detailed dimensions of the project
according to the drawing.
3. Get the actual measurement of the materials/stock assigned to you and get
the number of pieces needed using the form provided to you.
4. Accomplish Form 01a Materials Inspection List.

Assessment Method:
Portfolio Assessment Performance
Criteria Checklist

FORM 01a. MATERIAL INSPECTION LIST

SPECIFICATION REQUIREMENTS ACTUAL

UNIT NO. OF DIMENSION (INCHES) NO. OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT
NAME PIECES THICKNESS WIDTH LENGTH
PIECE THICKNESS WIDTH LENGTH
S
1 2 2 2 6½
2 4 1½ 2 4 1/4
3 4 2½ 2¼ 5
4 1 ¾ 24 16

Remarks:

Inspected by: Date Inspected:

 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.1-2

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO
1. Can I identify material specification from parts lists from the
actual/physical materials?
2. Are all required materials checked and re-checked
according to job requirement, such as:
1. Dimensions;

2. No. of required pieces; and,

3. Type of materials?

3. Is the required form for inspection properly accomplished

and completed?
 INFORMATION SHEET 6.1-3
WOOD DEFECTS

Learning Objective: After Reading This Information Sheet, You Must Be Able To
Identify Wood Defects.

No matter what species of timber you use, you will undoubtedly come across some
pieces that contain defects come across some pieces that contain defects.
Defects may be naturally occurring or can be man-made. Natural defects can be due
to many reasons such as environmental factors, growth patterns, soil composition, etc. Man-
made defects can occur at many points ... from the felling of the tree, transport, storage,
sawing, drying, etc.
Although you can work around some defects such as knots, or cut off defects such
as splits, boards that are heavily twisted, bowed, cupped, or crooked usually are not usable.

Bow A curve along the face of a board that

usually runs from end to end.

Checking A crack in the wood structure of a

piece, usually running lengthwise.
Checks are usually restricted to the
end of a board and do not penetrate
as far as the opposite side of a piece
of
sawn timber.
Crook Warping along the edge from one end
to the other. This is most common in
wood that was cut from the centre of
the tree near
the pith
Cupping Warping along the face of a board
across the width of the board. This
defect is most common of plain sawn
lumber.
Split A longitudinal separation of the fibres
which extends to the opposite face of
a piece of sawn timber.

Twist Warping in lumber where the

ends twist in opposite directions

Wane The presence of bark or absence of

wood on comers of a piece of lumber

Blue A discoloration that penetrates the

Stain wood fibre. It can be any colour other
than the natural colour of the piece in
which it is found. It is classed as light,
medium or heavy and is
generally blue or brown

Machine A darkening of the wood due to

Burn overheating by the machine knives or
rolls when pieces are
stopped in a machine.
Pitch An accumulation of resinous material
on the surface or in pockets below the
surface of
wood. Also called gum or sap.
Loose A knot that cannot be relied upon to
Knot remain in place in the piece. Caused
by a dead branch that was not fully
integrated into the
tree before it was cut down
Tight A knot fixed by growth or position in
Knot the wood structure so that it firmly
retains its place in
the surrounding wood
Worm Small holes in the wood caused by
holes insects and beetles
 SELF-CHECK NO. 4.1-3

Name of Trainee: Date:

IDENTIFICATION. Read the statement carefully. Identify the type of wood defects from the
given statements. Write your answer on space provided.

1 A discoloration that penetrates the wood fibre. It can be any colour other
than the natural colour of the piece in which it is found. It is classed as
light, medium or heavy and is generally blue or brown
2 Small holes in the wood caused by insects and beetles
3 Warping along the face of a board across the width of the board. This
defect is most common of plain sawn lumber.
4 A longitudinal separation of the fibres which extends to the opposite
face of a piece of sawn timber.
5 A curve along the face of a board that usually runs from end to end.

10
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.1-3
Title: Identify Wood Defects
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to identify wood defects from the given
materials/stocks
Supplies and Materials: Lumber (with visible wood defects)

Equipment:

Steps/Procedure:

• Check thoroughly the physical appearance of the wood/lumber provided to

you in your station.
• Examine the appearance of the stocks.
• Accomplish Form 02 Wood Defects Inspection List for visible defects of
wood.

Assessment Method:
Portfolio Assessment Performance
Criteria Checklist

FORM 01b WOOD DEFECTS INSPECTION LIST

PART NO. 1 Type of Wood:

Remarks:

PART NO. 2 Type of Wood:

Remarks:

PART NO. 2 Type of Wood:

Others:

I
Inspected by: Date Inspected:
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.1.3

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO

• Can I identify different defects of wood?

• Are materials like lumber checked to correct

specification to ensure that they are free from
defects?

• Are defected wood/stock identified and properly

reported using corresponding form?
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 6.1-4
CLASSIFICATION OF HAND TOOLS & EQUIPMENT AND THEIR
USES

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be

able to IDENTIFY THE CLASSIFICATION OF HAND TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
AND THEIR USES

The whole range of tools for carpentry is quite extensive and includes power and
battery-operated (cordless) tools in the essential list. The following details, therefore, do not
cover all the tools that you could have, rather all the tools that you should have.

MARKING AND MEASURING

Pencils

For more accurate marking and a longer-

lasting point, they can easily be sharpened to a
chisel-point.

Figure 5. Pencils
Tape Rule
This is essential for fast, efficient
measuring on site work. For this type of carrying-
rule, sizes vary between 2 m and 10 m. Models
with lockable, power- return blades and belt clips,
one of 3.5 m and one of 8 m length are
recommended. Figure 6. Tape Rule

Chalk Line Reel

This tool is very useful for marking straight lines by
holding the line taut between two extremes, lifting at any mid
point with finger and thumb and flicking onto the surface to leave
a straight chalk line.

Figure 7. Chalk Line Reel

Marking Gauges
Gauges are used for cutting parallel lines at a given
distance from the edge

Figure 8. Marking Gauge

Spirit Level
This is an essential tool for plumbing and leveling
operations. When checking or setting up a level or plumb position,
be sure that the bubble is equally settled between the lines on the
vial for accurate readings.

Figure 9. Spirit Level

Plumb Bob
There is still a use, however limited, for these traditional
plumbing devices. They should, as illustrated, always be suspended
away from the surface being checked and measured for equal
readings at top and bottom. The point is very useful for plumbing to
a mark on the floor.

Figure 10. Plumb Bob

Combination Mitre Square

This tool can be used for testing or marking
narrow rebated edges, as shown, or for testing or
marking angles of 90°, 45°, and 135°; the blade can be
adjusted from the stock to a set measurement and, with
the aid of a pencil, used as a pencil gauge.

Figure 11. Combination Miter Square

Sliding Bevel
This is an essential tool for angular work, especially roofing
if using the Roofing Ready Reckoner method.

Figure 12. Sliding Bevel

CUTTING TOOLS
Handsaws
• Crosscut Saw -This is for cutting timber
across the grain. When crosscutting, the
saw should be at an approximate angle of
45° to the timber.

Figure 13. Crosscut Saw

• Tenon Saw - This saw is sometimes
referred to as a back saw. Technically
thought of as a general purpose bench
saw for fine cutting, it is however widely
used on site for certain second-fixing
operations
involving fine crosscutting of small sections.
Figure 14. Tenon Saw

• Rip Saw - Used for cutting along or with the

grain. When ripping (cutting along or with the
grain), the saw should be used at a steep
angle of about 60–70° to the timber.

Figure 15. Rip Saw

• General Saw and Fine Saw - The first model is

general carpentry saw is recommended for
cutting worktops and laminates without
chipping. The second model is called a fine cut
saw and has a half-length back or full-length
back support and is said to surpass
conventional tenon saws.

Figure 16. General Saw and Fine Saw

• Coping Saw - This is mainly used for scribing

(cutting the profile shape) of molded skirting
boards where they meet in the corners of a
room, but occasionally comes in useful for
other curved cuts in wood or plastic.
Figure 17. Coping Saw
CHISELS
Firmer chisels are generally for heavy work,
chopping and cutting timber in a variety of operations HAND PLANES
where a certain amount of mallet/hammer work and The two planes to be
levering might be necessary to remove the chopped recommended as most useful for site
surface. Bevelled-edge chisels are generally for more work are the No. 4 1-2 smoothing
accurate finishing tasks. plane with a cutter width of 60 mm
and a base length of 260mm and the No. 5 1-2 jack
plane, also with a cutter width of 60mm, but a base
length of 381mm.

Figure 18. (a) Firmer Chisel;

(b) Bevelled-edge Chisel

Figure 19. Metal Jack Plane

DRIVING TOOLS
HAMMERS
• Claw Hammer - Although this tool is basically for nailing and extracting nails, it
has also been
widely used over the years by using the side of
the head as an alternative to the wooden mallet.
The claw is also used for a limited amount of
leverage work, such as separating nailed
boards, etc.
Figure 20. Claw Hammer

• Mallet - The conventional wedge-shaped pattern is rather bulky and not

generally favoured for site work, even though the tapered shaft
– retaining the head from flying off – can be removed for easier carriage. A
recommended alternative is a round-headed mallet, such as a Tinman’s mallet –
used
traditionally by sheet-metal workers – which has a
boxwood or lignum-vitae head of about 70 mm
diameter. Finally, wooden mallets should only
strike on their end grain, not on their sides.

Figure 21. Mallet

SCREWDRIVERS
 Ratchet Screwdriver - The ratchet
screwdriver is available with flared
slotted tip in four blade-lengths of
75mm, 100mm, 150mm and
200mm. They are also available
with a No 2 Supadriv/Pozidriv tip
and a No 2 Phillips’ tip in blade-
lengths of 100 mm only.
Figure 22. (a) Rachet screwdriver; (b) Spiral pump
Screwdriver; (c) Plastic-handled screwdriver

 Spiral Pump Screwdriver - can be used as a ratchet. The use of drill bits in
this compact-size pump is an attractive alternative for making speedy pilot
holes. Interchangeable bits are supplied with the whole range of this type of
screwdriver in different sizes.

 Plastic-Handled Screwdrivers - has a well-shaped polypropylene handle

integrated with thermo-plastic elastomeric inserts to provide improved grip
and comfort in use.

RATCHET BRACE
Used for making large holes, it has
wooden head and handle which is fitted in
bearings to turn easily. At the bottom it is
provided with a chuck to hold the bit. The ratchet
positioned above the chuck helps to rotate the bit
in one direction only

BITS Figure 23. Rachet Brace

• Twist bits and flat bits - Also referred to as
auger bits used for drilling shallow or deep
(maximum 150 mm) holes of 6–32 mm
diameter.

Figure 24. Twist bits/ Auger bits

and flat bits

• Countersink bits - These are for screw-head recessing in soft metal and
timber.
 • Combined countersink and counterbore bits - Used for drilling a pilot hole,
shank hole and countersink for woodscrews in one operation.

Figure 25. Countersink bits Figure 26. Combined

countersink and counterbore bit

PORTABLE POWERED AND CORDLESS CIRCULAR SAWS

These saws are widely used nowadays to
save time and energy spent on hand sawing
operations. They can also be used for bevel cuts,
sawn grooves and rebates.

Figure 27. Portable powered

circular saw

POWERED AND
CORDLESS DRILLS
AND SCREWDRIVERS
There is nowadays a wide range of dual- and
triple-purpose drills to choose from, starting with the
basic rotary-only drill and ending with the advanced
electro pneumatic hammer drill. the drill/screwdriver,
drill/impact (percussion) drill/screwdriver, drill/rotary
hammer drill/screwdriver, and combinations of
battery-powered models such as the cordless
screwdriver, drill/screwdriver, drill/impact
drill/screwdriver, and the drill/rotary hammer
drill/screwdriver.

Figure 28. Powered and cordless drills and screwdrivers

 POWERED AND CORDLESS PLANERS
Powered planers are often used nowadays in conjunction with traditional planes such
as the jack and the smoothing plane. They are sometimes preferred on such jobs as door-
hanging, to lessen the strenuous task of ‘shooting-in’ the door by planing its edges.

(a) (b)
Figure 29. (a) Powered plane; (b) Cordless plane

POWERED AND CORDLESS JIGSAWS

The essential purpose for a jigsaw is to enable pierced work to be carried out. This
self-explanatory term means to enter the body of a material, without leading in from an
outside edge. By so doing, small, irregular shapes can be cut.

Figure 30. (a) Powered jigsaw; (b) Cordless jigsaw

POWERED (PORTABLE) ROUTERS

These include cutting recessed housings for door hinges;
apertures for letter plates (often referred to as letter boxes);
mortises for door locks and latches; joints in laminate kitchen-
worktops with post-formed edges; end-shaping of laminate
worktops; cutting ‘dog-bone’ or ‘T-shaped’ recesses for inserting
panel bolt connectors; and cutting segmental slots in the joint-
edges of worktops for the insertion of so-called ‘biscuits’.

Figure 31. Powered router

NAILING GUNS
Nail guns are being used on sites nowadays – especially on new- build projects. The
reason for this is that these tools eliminate the effort involved in repetitive nailing and speed
up the job.

Figure 28 (a) Pneumatic Framing Nailer; (b) cordless gas/battery Framing Nailer;
(c) cordless battery-only Finish Nailer
 SELF-CHECK NO. 6.1-4

Name of Trainee: Date:

IDENTIFICATION. Look at the illustration carefully. Identify the kind and classification tools
and equipment. Write your answer on the space provided.
CLASSIFICATION
(DRIVING, BORING, NAME OF
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
CUTTING, MARKING, TOOL
MEASURING)
1

5
 INFORMATION SHEET 6.2-1
WOODWORKING PROCESS
Learning Objective: After Reading This Information Sheet, You Must Be Able To
Know The Different Woodworking Processes

Preliminaries to any sound construction are (1) a full cutting list of all the
pieces required; (2)good timber free from natural defects, accurately sawn and
planed up flat, square and out of twist;(3) careful planning of the work ahead,
including the choosing of appropriate jointing methods, the order in which they are to
be cut and the order and method in which the various pieces and parts are to be
assembled in the completed carcass. This last is important and must be accurately
visualized if there are to be no last-minute hitches, with carefully cut joints glued
ready for assembly unable to be driven home because the direction of entry conflicts
with other parts already in position.

A. SETTING/LAYING OUT
The wood must first be cut to approximate length, and it is always better to square
off from either a sawn edge or a pencil-line along the length if the planks are waney. If an
incorrect line is drawn—and all measurements should always be checked and double
checked—then it should be cancelled out and a broad arrow drawn against the corrected
measurement. The ends of the plank should be carefully examined for hidden splits and the
first few inches of any plank which has been stored for any length of time may have to be
sacrificed.

Due allowance for working must be made, with 1/4 in (6 mm) on width and 1/2 in (12
mm) on the length for the first rough sawing to dimension unless the cuts are machine-
made and accurate. Customary allowance for planing (surfacing) sawn thicknesses is
usually 3/32 in (2.5 mm) for each finished face.

The following is an outline of procedure using predominantly hand tools. Although

many of these operations would normally be undertaken with the aid of machinery in
professional shops, at some time or other, particularly on one-off, prototype or site work,
every one of these hand processes might be used. Also, there is no better way of
understanding the materials we work with than through a basic training in hand skills and
techniques.

B. MARKING/LAYING OUT
Face-marks and edge-marks must be bold and should be done with a thick soft
pencil. For the first approximate dimensioning of lengths, etc.
a B or HB pencil can be used, but for accurate dimensions at later stages a 2H or 4H is
necessary, while shoulder-lines should always be marked with a knife.

Figure 29. Marking a new line (A) and marking the trued edge

C. SAWING OUT
The rip-saw is used for long-grain sawing, the large crosscut or crosscut panel-saw
for cutting across the grain, and the temptation to use the finer tenon- and dovetail-saws for
rough work should be strenuously resisted, for more often than not the plank will be gritty. A
usual tendency on the part of the beginner is to saw too fast, and in comparison the skilled
worker's pace is almost leisurely, but he will cut more wood in the end and it will be
accurate. Every effort should be made to saw not only on the line but also truly vertical, as
this will save not only material but a great deal of unnecessary work at later stages.

D. PLANING (SURFACING)
Either the fore- or jack-plane is used for the first rough levelling, the try-plane for true
leveling and the finely set smoothing-plane for final surfacing. In planing wide boards the
best or face surface should first be levelled off along, across or diagonally, according to how
the grain works (interlocked grain is best planed diagonally to prevent tearing out), When
the board is out of wind then the try-plane should be capable of taking fine shavings the full
length of the board over the entire area, to be followed up by the finely set smoothing-plane
to ease out any ridges and roughened patches. When the surface is planed perfectly true
and out of wind it should be marked with a 'face' mark (128B) which should never be
omitted from any piece of prepared wood.
E. SQUARING EDGES
Immediately after the face surface is true, the leading or best edge should be trued
straight in its length and at right angles to the face, checking carefully with the try-square all
along the length; it is then known as the 'trued' or face edge and is marked accordingly. This
is, perhaps, the most difficult of all planing operations, for while it is comparatively easy to
plane a straight edge with a long try-plane, always remembering that pressure is applied at
the front of the plane at the start of the stroke and gradually transferred to the back as the
plane moves forward, it is much more difficult to keep the edge truly square to the face.

Figure 30.

F. SQUARING ENDS
The shooting-board is used for squaring ends, but if the wood is too wide or too
heavy to be held on the board then the ends will have to be shot in the vice and checked
against a long trysquare. The practice of nicking off the far corner to prevent the grain
splintering out is not to be recommended, and it is advisable to learn how to use the try-
plane in both directions, leading with the left hand, reversing the plane and leading with the
right. An alternative method is to cramp/clamp a block at the far corner to support the grain,
and a similar scrap piece is sometimes necessary when squaring ends on the shooting-
board.
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-1
Title: Plane and Square Stock to Dimension
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to plane and square stock to dimension

Supplies and Materials: Lumber/ stock

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Try-square

• Marking Tools • Hand Saw
• Measuring Tools • PPE
• Hand Planer
1. Plane one broad
surface smooth and
straight. Test it
crosswise, lengthwise,
and from corner to
corner. Mark the work
X

Work on face

2. Plane one edge smooth

straight and square to
the work face test it
from work face. Mark
the work edge X

Work on edge

3. Plane one end smooth

and square. Test it
from the work face and
work edge. Mark the
work end X

Work on end
 4. Measure length and
scribe around the
stock. A line square to
the work edge and
work face. Saw off
excess stock near the
line and plane smooth
to the scribed line.
Test the second end
from both the work
face and the work
edge.

5. From the work edge

gauge a line for width
on both faces plane
smooth, straight,
square and to the
gauge line. Test the
second edge from the
work face
Work on second edge

6. From the work face

gauge a line for
thickness around the
stock. Plane the stock
to the gauge line test
the second face as the
work face is tested.

Work on second face

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
 INFORMATION SHEET 6.2-2
CLASSIFICATION OF WOOD JOINTS AND THEIR USES

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be

able to KNOW and APPLY the different classification of WOOD JOINTS and their
USES

Jointing methods are designed to hold or lock pieces of wood together, either in the
same plane or in opposing planes, so that the method of attachment is permanent and
strong against loading stresses, thrusts, sudden impact, the wear and tear of daily use and
the constant movement of the wood fibers.

Methods of joining wood together can be classified under four broad headings:

• Butted joints, either edge to edge, side to side and with or without additional
reinforcement
• Interlocking joints where one piece of wood is cut or shaped to fit a
corresponding socket in the other piece
• Mechanical joints which permit controlled movement
• Knock-down metal or plastic fittings which secure the various wood sections
together to form rigid structures

Figure 31. Basic joint cuts

 A. Types of Carpentry Joints

1. Halving joint

• used in construction of frames

Figure 32. Halving Joints

• after marking and cutting, the two parts are glued together with final
external surfaces level

Figure 33a. Corner Halving Joint Figure 33b. T- halving

joint

2. Mortise and tenon joint

• strong joint used in

construction of doors,
windows and frames

• the tenon (tongue)

fits into a
mortise(mouth)

• the open mortise and

tenon joint is called
briddle joint and is
usually made in square
sections

Figure 44. Mortise & tenon joint

 Figure 35. Briddle joint

3. Mitre joint

• formed by cutting the ends at an

angle

• the two ends are joined by nails or

screws

• this joint is used in photo frames

Figure 36. Miter joint

4. Dowel joint

 used as substitute for mortise and tenon joint, and securing loose parts to
a product
 Figure 37. Dowel joint

5. Butt & rubbed joint

1. used to produce wide boards like drawing

boards, table tops

2. to make the joint the edges are planed with trying

plane and joined together with glue

Figure 38. Butt or rubbed joint

6. Screw & slot joint

• used for thick wooden pieces

which do not glue readily

• on piece carries the screw while the

other has a hole for head of the
screw and a slot for shank

Figure 39. Screw & slotted joint

7. Tongue & grooved joint

• widening joint used for flanks and boards

• this is prepared by cutting a groove on one edge and a matching tongue
on the other
• tongue is fitted into groove
• sometimes, grooves are made on both the edges and a separate tongue is
inserted in it --such joints are called inserted tongue and groove joint

Figure 40. Tongue & grooved joint

8. Dovetail

• the best method of jointing two pieces of wood together in their width
and at right angles to each other

Figure 41(1-2). Hand Dovetail Figure 41(3-4). Machine Dovetail

Figure 42. Box Dovetail

 SELF-CHECK NO. 6.2-2

Name of Trainee: Date:

IDENTIFICATION. Look at the illustration carefully. Identify the kinds of wood joints. Write
your answer on the space provided.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.
 INFORMATION SHEET 6.2-3
DESCRIPTION OF MANUFACTURED CABINETS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be

able to be familiar with the various kinds, sizes, uses, and construction of the
cabinets and to know how to and install them.

For commercial buildings, many kinds of specialty cabinets are manufactured. They
are designed for specific uses in offices, hospitals, laboratories, schools, libraries, and other
buildings. Most cabinets used in residential construction are manufactured for the kitchen or
bathroom. All cabinets, whether for commercial or residential use/ consist of a case which is
fitted with shelves, doors, and/or drawers. Cabinets are manufactured and installed in
essentially the same way. Designs vary considerably with the manufacturer, but sizes are
close to the same.

Kinds and Sizes

One method of cabinet construction utilizes a face frame. This frame provides
openings for doors and drawers. Another method, called European or frameless, eliminates
the face frame. Face-framed cabinets usually give a traditional look. Frameless cabinets are
used when a contemporary appearance is desired.

Figure 43. Two basic methods of cabinet construction are with a face frame or
frameless
 The two basic kinds of kitchen cabinets are the wall unit and the base unit. The
surface of the countertop is usually about 36 inches from the floor. Wall units are installed
about 18 inches above the countertop. This distance is enough to accommodate such
articles as coffee makers, toasters, blenders, and mixers. Yet it keeps the top shelf within
reach, not over 6 feet from the floor. The usual overall height of a kitchen cabinet installation
is 7'-0" .

Figure 44. Parts of manufactured kitchen cabinet

1. Wall Cabinets. Standard wall cabinets are 12 inches deep. They normally
come in heights of 42, 30, 24, 18, 15, and 12 inches. The standard height is 30
inches. Shorter cabinets are used above sinks, refrigerators, and ranges. The 42-
inch cabinets are for use in kitchens without soffits where more storage space is
desired. A standard height wall unit usually contains two adjustable shelves.

Usual wall cabinet widths range from 9 to 48 inches in 3-inch increments. They come
with single or double doors depending on their width. Single-door cabinets can be hung so
doors can swing in either direction.
 Wall corner cabinets make access into corners easier. Double-faced cabinets have
doors on both sides for use above island and peninsular bases. Some wall cabinets are
made 24 inches deep for installation above refrigerators. A microwave oven case/ with a 30-
inch wide shelf, is available.

Figure 45. Common cabinet heights and dimensions

2. Base Cabinets. Most base cabinets are manufactured 34 1/2 inches high
and 24 inches deep. By adding the usual countertop thickness of 1 ½ inches, the
work surface is at the standard height of 36 inches from the floor. Base cabinets
come in widths to match wall cabinets. Single- door cabinets are manufactured in
widths from 9 to 24 inches. Double- door cabinets come in widths from 27 to 48
inches. A recess called a toe space is provided at the bottom of the cabinet.

The standard base cabinet contains one drawer, one door, and an adjustable shelf.
Some base units have no drawers; others contain all drawers. Double-faced cabinets
provide access from both sides. Corner units/ with round revolving shelves, make corner
storage easily accessible
 Figure 46. Base cabinets

3. Tall Cabinets. Tall cabinets are usually manufactured 24 inches deep, the
same depth as base cabinets. Some utility cabinets are 12 inches deep. They are
made 66 inches high and in widths of 27.30, and 33 inches for use as oven cabinets-
Single-door utility cabinets are made 18 and 24 inches wide. Doubledoor pantry
cabinets are made 36 inches wide (Fig. 87-6). Wall cabinets with a 24-inch depth are
usually installed above tall cabinets.

Figure 47. Tall cabinets are manufactured as oven, utility, and pantry units
 4. Vanity Cabinets. Most vanity base cabinets are made 311/2 inches high
and 21 inches deep. Some are made in depths of 16 and 18 inches. Usual widths
range from 24 to 36 inches in increments of 3 inches, then 42,48, and 60 inches.
They are available with several combinations of doors and drawers, depending on
their width- Various sizes and styles of vanity wall cabinets are also manufactured.

Figure 48. Vanity cabinets are made similar to kitchen cabinets, but differ in size

5. Accessories. Accessories are essential to or enhance a cabinet

installation. Filler pieces fill small gaps in width between wall and base
units when no combination of sizes can fill the existing space. They are
cut to necessary widths on the job. Other accessories include cabinet
end panels, face panels for dishwashers and refrigerators, open
shelves for cabinet ends, and spice racks.
 SELF-CHECK NO. 6.2-3

Name of Trainee: Date:

MATCHING TYPE. Choose from the letters under Column B the answers in Column A.
Write your answer on the space provided.

COLUMN A COLUMN B

1. Manufactured at standard height a. wall cabinet

of 36 inches from the floor and 24
inches deep.

2. Most of these cabinets are b. base cabinet

made 31 1/2 inches high and 21
inches deep.

3. Standard cabinet height is 30 c. tall cabinet

inches, usually contains two
adjustable shelves.

4. The standard cabinet contains d. vanity cabinet

one drawer, one door, and an
adjustable shelf, a recess called a
toe space is provided at the bottom
of the cabinet.

5. They are made 66 inches high

and in widths of 27.30.
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 6.2-4
LAYING OUT MANUFACTURED KITCHEN CABINETS

Learning Objective: After reading this information sheet, you must be able to know
how to layout manufactured kitchen cabinets

The blueprints for a building contain plans, elevations, and details that show the
cabinet layout. Architects may draw the layout. But they may not specify the size or the
manufacturer's identification for each individual unit of the installation. In residential
construction, particularly in remodeling, no plans are usually available to show the cabinet
arrangement.

In addition to installation/ it becomes the responsibility of the carpentry contractor to plan,

lay out, and order the cabinets, in accordance with the customer's specifications.

1. The first step is to measure carefully and accurately the length of the walls
on which the cabinets are to be installed. A plan is then drawn to scale. It must show
the location of all appliances, sinks, windows, and other necessary items.

2. Next, draw elevations of the base cabinets, referring to the

manufacturer's catalog for sizes. Always use the largest size cabinets available
instead of two or three smaller ones- This reduces the cost and makes installation
easier.

3. Match up the wall cabinets with the base cabinets, where feasible. If
filler strips are necessary, place them between a wall and a cabinet or between
cabinets in the corner. Identify each unit on the elevations with the manufacturer's
identification. Make a list of the units in the layout. Order from the distributor.
Figure 49. Typical plan of a kitchen cabinet layout showing location of walls,
windows and appliances

Figure 50. Sink Wall Elevation

 Figure 51. Elevations of the installation are drawn and the cabinets identified.

Computer Layouts

Computer programs are available to help in laying out manufactured kitchen

cabinets. When the required information is fed into the computer, a number of different
layouts can be quickly made. When a acceptable layout is made, it can be printed with each
of the cabinets in the layout identified and priced. Most large kitchen cabinet distributors will
supply computerized layouts on request.
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 6.2-5 INSTALLING
MANUFACTURED CABINETS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be

able to Install manufactures cabinets.

Cabinets must be installed level and plumb even though floors are not always level
and walls not always plumb. Level lines are first drawn on the wall for base and wall
cabinets. In order to level base cabinets that set on an unlevel floor, either shim the cabinets
from the high point of the floor or scribe and fit the cabinets to the floor from lowest point on
the floor. Shimming the base cabinets leaves a space that must be later covered by a
molding. Scribing and fitting the cabinets to the floor eliminate the need for a molding. The
method used depends on the various conditions of the job. If shimming base cabinets, layout
the level lines on the wall from the highest point of the floors where cabinets are to be
installed. If fitting cabinets to the floor, measure up from the lowest point.

The fabrication and installation of manufactured cabinets will be discussed in

detail on the following operation sheets.
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-5a
Title: Laying-out the Wall
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to lay-out the wall where the cabinet will be
installed
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber,
plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line

• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw

Steps/Procedure:

1. Measure 34 ½ inches up the wall. Draw a level line to indicate the tops of
the base cabinets. Another level line must be made on the wall 54 inches
from the floor. The bottoms of the wall units are installed to this line.
Note: It is more accurate to measure 19 1/2 inches up from
the first level line and snap lines parallel to it than to level
another line.
2. The next step is to mark the stud locations in a framed wall. (Cabinet
mounting screws will be driven into the studs.) Lightly tap on and across a
short distance of the wall with a hammer. Drive a finish nail in at the point
where a solid sound is heard. Drive the nail where holes are later covered
by a cabinet- If a stud is found, mark the location with a pencil. If no stud is
found try a little over to one side or the other.

3. Measure at 16-inch intervals in both directions from the first stud to locate
other studs. Drive a finish nail to test for solid wood. Mark each stud
location. If studs are not found at 16-inch centers, try 24-inch, centers- At
each stud location, draw plumb lines on the wall. Mark the outlines of all
cabinets on the wall to visualize and check the cabinet locations against the
layout.

See illustration on the following page.

Date Document No.

Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSA October 22,
2010 Page 64 of
T QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Cabinets Glenn F.
Salandanan Revision #
 The wall is laid out with outlines of the cabinets

Assessment Method:
Direct Observation Performance
Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.

Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSA October 22,
2010 Page 65 of
T QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Cabinets Glenn F.
Salandanan Revision #
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-5a

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did my measurements corresponds to the
measurements on the drawing?
• After laying-out the tops of the base cabinets and
the bottom of the wall units, is the measurement
from the first and second line equal to 19 ½
inches?
• Did I located the studs on the framed wall and draw
plumb lines on the wall?
• Did I marked the outlines of all cabinets on the wall
to visualize and check the cabinet locations against
the layout?
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-5b
Title: Installing Wall Units
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to install wall units
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber,
plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line

• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/ Procedures:

1. Remove all doors and adjustable shelves. This makes the cabinets
lighter and easier to clamp together.

• If possible, screw a 1 X3 strip of lumber so its top edge is on the level

line for the bottom of the wall cabinets. This is used to support the wall
units while they are being fastened.

• If it is not possible to screw to the wall, build a stand on which to support

the unit near the line of installation (as shown below).
2a. Start the installation of wall cabinets in a corner.

• On the wall, measure from the line representing the outside of the cabinet
to the stud centers
• Transfer the measurements to the cabinets
• Drill shank holes for mounting screws through mounting rails usually
installed at the top and bottom of the cabinet
• Place the cabinet on the supporting strip or stand so its bottom is on the
level layout line
• Fasten the cabinet in place with mounting screws of sufficient length
to hold the cabinet securely
• Do not fully tighten the screws

2b. On masonry walls, first drill holes through the mounting strips. Place the
cabinet in position, and mark the location of the drilled holes on the wall. Remove
the cabinet. Drill holes into the masonry wall for lead inserts. Replace the cabinet,
and screw in place.

3. The next cabinet is installed in the same manner.

• Align the adjoining stiles so their faces are flush with each other
• Clamp them together with C-clamps
• Screw the stiles tightly together
• Continue this procedure around the room

Date Document No.

Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSA October 22,
2010 Page 68 of
T QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Cabinets Glenn F.
Salandanan Revision #
 • Tighten all mounting screws

4. If a filler needs to be used, it is better to add it next to a blind corner cabinet or

at the end of a run. It may be necessary to scribe the filler to the wall as shown
on the illustration below.

Assessment Method: Direct Observation

Performance Criteria Checklist

Date Document No.

Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
October 22,
JZGMSA
2010 Page 69 of
T QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Cabinets Glenn F.
Salandanan Revision #
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-5b

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO
• Are all doors and adjustable shelves removed
before installing the cabinet?

• Did I installed wall cabinets in a corner first?

• Are all adjoining stiles aligned so their faces were

flushed with each other?
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-5c
Title: Installing Base Cabinets
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to install base cabinets
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan
Lumber, plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line

• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/ Procedures:
1. Start the installation of base cabinets in a comer.
• Shim the bottom until the cabinet top is on the layout line
• Then level and shim the cabinet from back to front
• If cabinets are to be fitted to the floor, shim until their tops are level
across width and depth. This will bring the tops above the layout
line that was measured from the low point of the floor
• Adjust the pencil dividers so the distance between the points is equal
to the amount the top of the unit is above the layout line
• Scribe this amount on the bottom end of the cabinets by running
the dividers along the floor
2. Cut both ends and toeboard to the scribed lines. There is no need to
cut the cabinet backs because they do not/ ordinarily, extend to the floor.
3. Place the cabinet in position.
• The top ends should be on the layout line.
4. Fasten it loosely to the wall.
Note: The remaining base cabinets are installed in the same manner. Align and
clamp the stiles of adjoining cabinets. Fasten them together.
5. Finally, fasten all units securely to the wall

Assessment Method: Portfolio Assessment

Performance Criteria Checklist
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.1.5c

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I started installing the base cabinets in the
corners first?

• Did I cut both ends and toe board to the

scribed lines?

• Are the cabinets placed in its prescribed

positions?

• Are all adjoining stiles aligned so their faces were

flushed with each other?

• Are all cabinets fastened to the walls securely?

 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 6.2-6 INSTALLING
MANUFACTURED COUNTERTOPS

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able
to be familiar with countertops, where it is made from, and LEARN the procedure in
installing manufactured countertops.

Countertops are manufactured in various standard lengths. They can be cut to fit
any installation against walls. They are also available with one end precut at a 45 degree
angle for joining with a similar one at comers. Special hardware is used to join the sections.

The countertops are covered with a thin, tough high-pressure plastic laminate. This is
generally known as mica. It is available in many colors and patterns. The countertops are
called postformed countertops. This term comes from the method of forming the mica to
the rounded edges and corners of the countertop. Postforming is bending the mica with heat
to a radius of 3/4 inch or less. This can only be done with special equipment.

Steps in Installing Manufactured Countertops

1. After the base units are fastened in position, the countertop is cut to length. It
is fastened on top of the base units and against the wall. The backsplash can
be scribed, limited by the thickness of its scribing strip/ to an irregular wall
surface. Use pencil dividers to scribe a line on the top edge of the
backsplash. Then plane or belt sand to the scribed line.
2. Fasten the countertop to the base cabinets with screws up through triangular
blocks usually installed in the top corners of base units. Use a stop on the drill
bit. This prevents drilling through the countertop. Use screws of sufficient
length, but not so long that they penetrate the countertop.
3. Exposed cut ends of postformed countertops are covered by
specially shaped pieces of plastic laminate.
4. Sink cutouts are made by carefully outlining the cutout and cutting with a
saber saw. The cutout pattern usually comes with the sink.
Use a fine tooth blade to prevent chipping out the face of the mica beyond the sink.
Some duct tape applied to the base of the saber saw will prevent scratching of the
countertop when making the cutout.
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-6a
Title: Install Manufactured Countertop
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to install manufactured countertop
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber,
plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line

• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:

1. Use pieces 3/4- or 5/8-inch with width of 24 ½ inches panel material for
the countertop.

2. Place the countertop on the base of the cabinets, against the wall.
Its outside edge should overhang the face frame the same amount the entire
length. Open the pencil divider or scribers to the amount of overhang.

3. Scribe the back edge of the countertop to the wall.

4. Cut the countertop to the scribed line.

5. Place it back on top of the base cabinets. The ends should be flush with
the end of the base cabinets. The front edge should be flush with the face of the
face frame (as shown below).
Scribing the countertop to fit the wall with its outside edge flush with the face of the
cabinet

6. Install a 1x2 on the front edge and at the ends, if an end overhang
is desired. Keep the top edge flush with the top side of the countertop.

7. If a backsplash is used, rip a 4-inch wide length of ¾ inch stock

the same length as the countertop.

8. Fasten the backsplash on top of and flush with the back edge of
the countertop. Use driving screws up through the countertop and into the
bottom edge of the backsplash. In corners, fasten the ends of the backsplash
together with screws.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-6a

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO

• Is the outside edge of the countertop overhang the face

frame the same amount the entire length?

• Are the ends flushed with the end of the base

cabinet?
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-6b
Title: Installing the Cabinet Ends
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to install the cabinet ends
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber,
plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line

• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:

1. Cut the cabinet ends to a rough length and width with square
ends. The length should be about 36 inches and the width about 23-
1 / 2 inches.

2. Place one end in position. Plumb the outside edge. Use shims between
it and the wall and floor, if necessary, to hold it steady.

3. Adjust the pencil dividers to the same distance the top end projects
above the top cleat. Scribe this amount on the bottom.

4. Cut the bottom end to the scribed line to fit to the floor.

5. Place the end back in position. Its bottom end should fit the floor. Top
end should be flush and level with the top edge of the top cleat, and its
outside edge plumb.

6. Adjust the pencil dividers to the same distance the outside edge
projects beyond the cabinet bottom. Scribe this amount on the edge
against the wall.

7. Cut to the scribed line.

8. Before fastening the end in position, mark and cut a circular arc out of
the bottom outside corner for the toespace. The top of the cut is
started 1 1/2 inches below the cabinet bottom. The cut is flush with the
face of the toeboard at the floor line.

Date Document No.

Carpentry NC III Developed: Issued by:
JZGMSA October 22,
2010 Page 78 of
T QA Install Built-In/Pre-
Developed by: 123
SYSTEM Fabricated Cabinets Glenn F.
Salandanan Revision #
 9. Smooth the cut edge.

10. Fasten the cabinet end in position. Nail into the end of the cabinet
bottom and into the ends of the wall cleats (as shown below).

11. Cut and install the other end in the same manner.

Method of fitting the base cabinet end panels.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-6b

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO

1. Did I fastened the cabinet ends in position?

• Is the flushed cabinet end fits the wall?

• Is the front end of flushed cabinet end

plumb?

• Is the bottom end fits the floor?

• Are the edges of the cabinet ends

smooth?
• Is the top edge of the cabinet end
flushed with the top edge of the
countertop cleat?
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-6c
Title: Making the Face Frame
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, and after
installing the cabinet ends, you should be able to
make the cabinet face frame.
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber,
plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line

• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:
1. Install stiles on each cabinet end.
2. Install the bottom rail between the stiles. Keep the top edge flush
with the top side of the cabinet bottom.
3. Cut the top rail and drawer rail to the same length as the bottom
rail.
4. Fastened the top rails by clamping and gluing them to short
blocks of 1X2 stock installed in back of the joint (as shown
below).

Construction of the base cabinet face frame

 5. Sand all joints flush.

6. Ease all sharp exposed comers.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-6c

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO

• Is the top edge flushed with the top side of the

cabinet bottom?

• Did I cut the top rail and drawer rail to the same
length as the bottom rail?

• Did I installed a short blocks of 1x2 stock in the

back joint of the top rails?

• Are all flushed joints and sharp exposed

corners sanded?
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 6.2-7 DRAWER
CONSTRUCTION

Learning Objective: After reading this information sheet, you must be able to be
familiar with the various kinds of joints used drawer construction.

Drawers are classified as overlay, lipped, and flush in the same way as doors. In a
cabinet installation, the drawer type should match the door type.

Drawer Construction

Drawer fronts are generally made from the same material as the cabinet doors.
Drawer sides and backs are generally 1/2 inch thick. They may be made of solid lumber/
plywood, or particleboard. Medium-density fiberboard with a printed wood grain is also
manufactured for use as drawer sides and backs. The drawer bottom is usually made of 1/4-
inch plywood or hardboard. Small drawers may have 1/8-inch hardboard bottoms.

Drawer Joints

Typical joints between the front and sides of drawers are the dovetail, lock, and
rabbet joints. The dovetail joint is used in higher-quality drawer construction. It takes a longer
time to make, but is the strongest. Dovetail drawer joints may be made using a router and a
dovetail template. The lock joint is simpler. It can be easily made using a table saw. The
rabbet joint is the easiest to make. However, it must be strengthened with fasteners in
addition to glue.

Figure 52. Typical joints between drawer front and side

 Joints normally used between the sides and back are the dovetail, dado and rabbet,
dado, and butt joints. With the exception of the dovetail joint, the drawer back is usually set
in at least 1/2 inch from the back ends of the sides to provide added strength.

This helps prevents the drawer back from being pulled off if the contents get stuck
while opening the drawer.

Drawer Bottom Joints

The drawer bottom is fitted into a groove on all four sides of the drawer. In some
cases, the drawer back is made narrower, the four sides assembled, the bottom slipped in
the groove, and its back edge fastened to the bottom edge of the drawer back.

Figure 53. Typical joints between drawer back and side

 Figure 54. Drawer bottom fitted in groove at drawer back.

Figure 55. Drawer bottom fastened to bottom edge of drawer back.

 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-7a
Title: Overlay Drawer
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to lay-out the wall where the cabinet will be
installed
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber,
plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line

• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:

1. Cut the drawer sides to height and length. The height should be about 1/8
inch less than the height of the drawer opening. If metal drawer guides are used,
the height of the drawer sides depends on the type and manufacturer of the drawer
guide. Care must be taken not to make the drawer sides too long. They are usually
made 22 inches long for a standard base cabinet.

2. Dado the sides for the back and front of the drawer, 1/4 inch deep as
shown below. The dadoes are cut to the same depth so the front and back can be
cut to the same length.

Overlay drawer sides are dadoed on the front and back ends
3. Cut the false fronts and backs to width and length. The width is the same
as the drawer sides. The length determines the overall width of the drawer. The
length should be such to allow the proper clearance between the drawer sides and
the opening. This depends on t he type of drawer guides used. A clearance of 1/2
inch on each side is required for most metal side guides- If the drawers are to slide
on wood guides, generally about 1/8 inch clearance is required on each side.

4. Rabbet both ends of the false front to fit into the dado in the drawer sides.
Round off and smooth the top edges of all sides, fronts, and back.

5. Make a groove on all parts for the drawer bottom. The width of the groove
should be such that the drawer bottom will slide easily into it without being forced.
The depth of the groove should be about 1/4 inch, if 1/2-inch drawer sides are
used. If the groove is too deep, it will weaken the sides. If the groove is too
shallow, the bottom may fall out after assembly. The distance from the bottom
edge should be about 3/8 inch to the bottom of the groove (as shown below).

Location of the groove for the drawer bottom.

6. Glue and fasten the sides to the back. Slip in the bottom. Do not apply glue
to the bottom- Fasten the false front to the sides.

7. Cut and fasten the overlay front to the drawer with screws driven from
the inside. Care must be taken to position the drawer front correctly.
 Plan view of the overlay drawer.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-7a

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I cut the drawer sides to height and
length?

• Did I dadoed the sides for the front and back of

the drawer at ¼ inch deep?

• Is the false fronts and backs cut to its width and

length?

• Did I rabbet the false front of the drawer fit to the

dado in the drawer sides?

• Are the grooves on the drawer sides fit the

bottom part of the drawer at ¼ inch deep?
• Did I allow 3/8 inch distance from the bottom edge
to the drawer to the bottom of the groove?

• Did I glued and fastened the sides of the

drawer to the back securely?
• Is the overlay front cut and fastened to the drawer
correctly with screws driven from the side?
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-7b
Title: Make a Lipped Drawer
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to lay-out the wall where the cabinet will be
installed
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber,
plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line

• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:

1. Cut the front 5/8 inch over the opening size on both the width and
length.

2. Rabbet the top and bottom edges 3/8”x3/8”.

3. On each end, make rabbets 3/8”X7/8” to allow for the overlap, the
thickness of the drawer sides, and clearance. The depth of the rabbet may
be greater if more clearance is needed (depending on the type of drawer
guide used).

4. Shape the edges and ends of the drawer front as required.

5. Assemble the drawer in a manner similar to that used for the overlay
drawer.

6. The sides are fastened to the rabbeted ends of the drawer front.
 Plan view of the lipped drawer

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-7b

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO
1. Did I rabbeted the top and bottom edges to 3/8”X 3/8”?

2. Did I rabbeted each end to 3/8”X7/8” allowing for the

overlap?

3. Did I assembled the drawer as required?

 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-7c
Title: Make a Flush Drawer
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to make a flush drawer
Supplies and Materials: Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber,
plywood, fasteners

Tools and Equipment: • Hammer • Chalk Line

• Marking Tools • Water Hose Level
• Measuring Tools • Plumb Bob
• Nylon String • Hand Saw
• Steel Square • PPE
• Try-square • Circular Saw
• Hand Saw
Steps/Procedure:

1. Cut out the drawer front to the overall height and width of the drawer
opening.

2. Rabbet the two ends of the drawer front to receive the drawer sides
plus an allowance for side clearance. The amount of clearance depends
on the type of drawer guide used.

3. Cut out the other drawer parts.

4. Assemble in a manner similar to that used for other type drawers (as
shown below).

5. After the drawer is assembled, try it in the opening. Fit the drawer front to
the opening by hand planing/ if necessary.
 Plan view of the flush drawer

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.2-7c

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I cut the drawer front to the overall height and
width of the drawer opening?

• Did I rabbeted the two ends of the drawer

front?

• Is the drawer fitted to the drawer opening?

LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 3 Assemble and install built-in and pre-
fabricate cabinet components
CONTENTS:

1. Classification of cabinet hardwares and their uses

2. Wood Filling
3. Installing built-in and/or pre-fabricated cabinets components

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA

1. Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet assembly are

set-out in accordance with working drawings and specifications
2. Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet assembly are
installed in accordance with working drawings and specifications
3. Finishing hardwares are installed as per working drawings
4. Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company rules and
regulations
5. Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations
6. Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety
regulations

CONDITIONS:
You must be provided with the following:
 WORKPLACE LOCATION
 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT  Hand Saw
 Hammer  Chalk Line
 Marking Tools  Water Hose Level
 Measuring Tools  Plumb Bob
 Screwdriver  Hand Saw
 Steel Square  PPE
 Try-square  Circular Saw
 TRAINING MATERIALS
 Leaning Packages
 Bond paper
 Ball pens
 Manuals
 Related References

ASSESSMENT METHOD
Portfolio
Demonstration
 Learning Experience
ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL BUILT-IN AND PRE-FABRICATE CABINET COMPONENTS
Learning Activities Special Instructions
1. Read Information Sheet No. 4.3-
1 on Classification of cabinet
hardwares and their uses

2. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.3- Evaluate your own work using the
1a on Installing Pulls and Knobs Performance Criteria
on Doors Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the
next activities
3. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.3- Evaluate your own work using the
1b on Installing Pulls and Knobs Performance Criteria
on Doors Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the
next activities
4. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.3- Evaluate your own work using the
1c on Install Magnetic and/or Performance Criteria
Friction Catches Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the
next activities
5. Read Information Sheet No.
4.3-2 on Wood Filling
6. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.3-2 Evaluate your own work using the
on Apply Wood Filler Performance Criteria
Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation
Keep a copy of your work for the
next activities
7. Read Information Sheet No. 4.3-3 on
Installing built-in and/or pre-
fabricated
cabinets components
8. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.3-3 Evaluate your own work using the
on Installing Metal Drawer Guides Performance Criteria
Present your work to your trainer for
evaluation; Keep a copy of your work
for the next activities
 INFORMATION SHEET NO. 6.3-1
CLASSIFICATION OF CABINET HARDWARE AND THEIR USES

Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be

able to KNOW the different Classification of Cabinet Hardwares and their Uses.

1. Hinges

All hinges are used to make a movable joint between two

pieces of material. A hinge consists primarily of a pin and two
plates. There are three most commonly used hinges: full-mortise,
half-surface, and full-surface.

Figure 56. Common door hinge

a. Full-Mortise. The full-mortise hinge is cut or mortised

(gained) into both the door jamb and the door. The leaves
of a full-mortise hinge are completely hidden, leaving only
the barrel exposed when the door is closed.

Figure 57. Full-mortise hinge

b. Full-Surface. The full-surface hinge is fastened

directly to the door and jamb, and no mortise is
required. Note that the edges of the full-mortise are
beveled. The surface of the frame and door must be
flush when full-surface hinges are used.

Figure 58. Full-surface hinge

c. Half-Surface. The half-surface butt-type hinge is like the
other hinges, except that one leaf is fastened on the surface
of the door and the other leaf fits into a grain in the frame.

Figure 59. Half-surface hinge

d. Cabinet Hinges. Hinges come in many styles and finishes for every type of
cabinet. Either full-mortise, full-surface, or half-surface hinges are used for
cabinet work. A few of the designs of cabinet hinges are shown in Figure 5.

Figure 60. Cabinet hinges

e. Special Hinges. Many other types of hinges are available. Several are
shown in below.

Figure 61. Special hinges

2. Hinge Hasps

Hinge hasps are like hinges, except for the leaves. One leaf has screw holes for
fastening the hasp in place. The other leaf is longer with a slot cut near the outer end. A
metal loop, riveted to a square metal base, is used with the hinge hasp. The base of the loop
is fastened in place with four screws. The slot in the long leaf of the hasp fits over the loop. A
hinge hasp is used with a padlock as a locking device. The long leaf of the safety hasp
covers the heads of all screws when it is in the locked position.

Figure 62. Hinge hasps

3. Locks and Striker Plates

a. Tubular Locks. Tubular locks have all the advantages of mortise locks, but
are much easier to install because they only need bored holes. They are
used mainly for interior doors for bedrooms, bathrooms, passages, and
closets. They are available with a key tumbler lock in the knob on the
outside of the door or with a turn button or push button on the inside.

Figure 63. Tubular lock

b. Cylindrical Locks. Cylindrical locks are basically the same as the tubular
type. The cylindrical lock is a sturdy, heavy-duty, and stronger lock, which is
used on exterior doors for maximum security.

Figure 64. Cylindrical lock

c. Mortise Locks. Mortise locks are used mainly on front or outside doors for
high security. The present trend is away from using mortise locks because
of the difficulty and time required to install them.

Figure 65. Mortise lock

d. Dead Bolts. Dead Bolts are used where added security is needed. They
are constructed of very hard steel.

Figure 66. Dead bolt locks

 e. Rim Locks. Rim locks are easier to install because they are normally
installed on the inside surface of exterior doors. One bored hole is usually all
that is required.

Figure 67. Rim lock

f. Striker Plate. A striker plate is usually mortised into the frame of the
opening for a lock. It prevents the wood from wearing or splitting and
cannot be pried loose easily.

Figure 68. Striker plate

4. Pulls and Knobs

Cabinet pulls or knobs are used on cabinet doors and drawers. They come in many
styles and designs. They are made of metal, plastic, wood, porcelain, or other material.
 Figure 69. A few of the many styles of pulls and knobs used on cabinet doors and
drawers.

5. Door Catches

Doors without self-closing hinges need catches to hold them closed.

Catches should be placed where they are not in the way, such as on the bottom of shelves,
instead of the top.

Kinds of Catches

• Magnetic catches. These are widely used, available in single or double

magnets of varying holding power. An adjustable magnet is attached to the
inside of the case and a metal plate is attached to the door.
• Friction catches. Installed in similar manner to that used for magnetic
catches.
• Elbow catches. These are used to hold one door of a double set. They are
released by reaching to the back side of the door. These catches arc usually
used when one of the doors is locked against the other.
• Bullet catches. These are spring loaded. They fit into the edge of the door.
When the door is closed, the catch fits into a recessed plate mounted on
the frame.

Figure 70. Kinds of catches

 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.3-1a
Title: Install Pulls and Knobs on Doors
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be able
to install pulls and knobs
Supplies and Materials: Pulls and knobs

Tools and Equipment: 1. Hammer 5. Screwdriver

2. Marking Tools 6. Electric drill with
3. Measuring Tools drill bits
4. Try-square 7. PPE
Steps/Procedure:

1. Drill holes through the door.

2. Fasten them with machine screws from the inside.

3. When two screws are used to fasten a pull, drill holes slightly oversize in
case they are a little off center. This allows the pulls to be fastened easily
without cross-threading the screws. Usually 3/16-inch diameter holes are
drilled for 1 / 8 inch machine screws.

4. To drill holes quickly and accurately, make a template from scrap wood that
fits over the door. The template can be made so that holes can be drilled for
doors that swing in either direction (as shown below).
 Using a template when drilling holes for cabinet door pulls
Assessment Method: Portfolio Assessment
Performance Criteria Checklist
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.3-1a

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I installed the finishing hardwares as per
working drawings?
• Are all unexpected situation dealt with in accordance
with company rules and regulations?

• Did I performed housekeeping according to safety

regulations?
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.3-1b
Title: Install Pulls and Knobs on Drawers
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to install pulls and knobs
Supplies and Materials: Pulls and knobs
Tools and Equipment: 1. Hammer 5. Screwdriver
2. Marking Tools 6. Electric drill with
3. Measuring Tools drill bits
4. Try-square 7. PPE
Steps/Procedure:

1. Drill holes through the drawer.

2. Fasten them with machine screws from the inside.

3. When two screws are used to fasten a pull, drill holes slightly oversize in
case they are a little off center. This allows the pulls to be fastened easily
without cross-threading the screws. Usually 3/16-inch diameter holes are
drilled for 1 / 8 inch machine screws.

4. To drill holes quickly and accurately, make a template from scrap wood that
fits over the drawer.

5. Align the template center with the center of the drawer. By using the
template, all that is required to locate holes is to find the center of any width
drawer. The template can be made for use in drawers of different heights (as
shown below).
 Making template for quick and accurate installation of drawer full

Assessment Method:
Portfolio Assessment Performance
Criteria Checklist
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.3-1b

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I installed the finishing hardwares as per
working drawings?
• Are all unexpected situation dealt with in accordance
with company rules and regulations?

• Did I performed housekeeping according to safety

regulations?
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.3-1c
Title: Install Magnetic and/or Friction Catches
Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should be
able to install catches.
Supplies and Materials: Magnetic and/or Friction Catches
Tools and Equipment: 1.Hammer 5.Screwdriver
2.Marking Tools 6.Electric drill with
3.Measuring Tools drill bits
4.Try-square 7.PPE
Steps/Procedure:

1. First attach the magnet.

2. Then place the plate on the magnet.
3. Close the door and tap it opposite the plate.
4. Mark the location of plate projection on the door.
5. Attach the plate to the door where marked.
6. Try the door. Adjust the magnet, if necessary.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST

 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.3-1c

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I installed the finishing hardwares as per
working drawings?
• Are all unexpected situation dealt with in accordance
with company rules and regulations?

• Did I performed housekeeping according to

safety regulations?
 INFORMATION SHEET 6.3-2
WOOD FILLERS
Learning Objective: After reading this information sheet, you must be able to be
familiar with the various types of wood fillers.

Wood fillers fix mistakes, fill holes and cover imperfections in a piece of wood or
woodworking project. Certain wood fillers work better in a given situation than others and
appear different on separate species of wood. Some wood filler may also act as a glue or
adhesive so that joints appear seamless within a woodworking project.

Types of Wood Fillers

Epoxy

9. a very hard, durable wood filler that can be used to fill any sized hole from
large and gaping to tiny and minuscule

10. commonly used to fill large spaces since it doesn’t react to heat and cold by
expanding and contracting like other wood fillers

11. generally comes in two parts, in a resin and an adhesive, that mix together to
form a paste.

12. epoxy molds, shapes and stretches easily when wet, making it ideal to build
up, repair or replace extremely damaged or missing areas of wood or
woodworking projects

13. because of its durability and strength, mistakes in patching with epoxy are not
easily resolved

14. epoxy may dry clear, white or in a wood tone depending on the brand and
specific type used.

Putty
• comes in different colors and shades to match the species of wood or stain
used
 • colors may not match perfectly, but closely resemble the wood or stain so that
no extra stain or coloring is required to cover the patch

• if a premixed color doesn’t match the damaged wood, mixing two or more
colors together may achieve the desired match

• wood putty performs best on small- to medium-sized holes

• should not be used to repair larger holes as it is not as durable as other types
of wood filler

• oil-based wood putty is available for filling small holes such as nail holes and
joints for a finished look, and remains flexible after drying.

Glue
• for small holes or imperfections in a woodworking project, a quick wood filler
is a clear drying wood glue mixed with some fine sawdust

• this method creates a patch that closely or completely resembles the original
wood.

• glue and sawdust should only be used to patch very small holes or damages,
as it will not hold up structurally or look as good on larger holes

• sawdust should be made from the existing wood if possible

Sanding Sealers

• as their name implies, these are used to seal the wood and are made for
sanding

• sanding sealers are made with zinc stearate ( a soap-like material ) which is
added so that the sandpaper will not gum up while sanding

• use after staining and prior to finish clear coat

• sanding sealers are quick drying, allowing for multiple coats in a short period
of time and a quick finishing system

• because of the stearates in them will repel some clear coat finishes
• latex and polyurethanes in particular will not adhere well to these intermediate
clear coats

• it is important that you use a "system" of stain, sealer and clear coat that is
compatible

Shellac

• preferred for sanding sealer

• although shellac will gum up a little when sanding, it is very quick drying

• will not lift an oil based stain

• will not re-soften when varnished over

• shellac (unless "de-waxed") must be overcoated with an oil varnish

• other finishes will not adhere to shellac because of the naturally occurring wax
contained in it

Pre-Stain Sealers

 used on soft woods like pine to allow a more uniform and less freckled stained
finish

 be careful with these, you can overseal the bare wood so that it will not take
any stain.
 OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.3-2
Title: Steps in Using Wood Filler

Performance Objective: Given the necessary materials, you should

be able to install catches.
Supplies and Materials: 1. Wood Filler
2. Paint Thinner
3. Primer
4. Large cloth
Tools and Equipment: 1. Standard 3. Sandpaper (low
screwdriver and high grain)
2. Scissors or 4. Paintbrush
Stanley knife
Steps/Procedure:

1. Sand Holes
• A nail or screw hole has to be tidied before filler can be applied
• Rotate a flat head screwdriver in the hole to be filled as this will clean it of
any immediate debris
• Use a small piece of sandpaper to gently rub away at the edges of the hole
• Be sure to cut away any loose wood fibers with a Stanley knife or small pair
of scissors
• Ignore this step and a paint layer will have visible edges on the surface after
painting

2. Apply Filler
1. Get a paste-base wood filler and apply it in the neatened hole
2.
2. Spread enough filler into the hole so a small excess will be left above the
surface
3. Sand down excess to leave a perfectly level surface to paint on
4. Do this for all the holes that need filling.
5. Do not use a liquid-based filler, as this is only required for refined grained
wood patterns
3. Sand Filler
1. Allow the filler to dry before any attempts are made to sand
3
2. Use a medium or high grain sandpaper and apply even pressure to the
areas where you have used the wood filler
3. Sand the filler as even to the surface
 4. If you do not refine the wood filler with sandpaper, the filled areas will stick out
once paint dries over them.

4. 4. Clean
1. Use a large cloth and some hot water to gently wipe over the surface you
have been working on
2. Alternatively, use a small amount of paint thinner on the cloth to strip away
any flaky areas of paint and woodwork
3. Allow the water or thinner to dry and check that the debris has been cleared

5. Check
1. Run your hand over the top of the surface that will be painted; it should feel
smooth and even over the entire area
2. Sand away any lumps you come across
3. Carefully check the surface for any small holes you may have missed and
apply extra wood filler accordingly.
4. Apply a layer of primer with a large paintbrush and you are ready to paint
once it has dried.

Assessment Method:
Observation
Performance Criteria Checklist
 PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST
OPERATION SHEET NO. 6.3-2

Name of Trainee: Date:

CRITERIA YES NO
• Did I filled all holes and covered wood
imperfections using wood filler?

• Are all top of surfaces covered with wood filler sanded

smooth?

• Did I performed housekeeping according to safety

regulations?

• Did I used appropriate PPE according to job

requirements and safety regulations?
 INFORMATION SHEET 6.3-3
INSTALLING BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED CABINETS COMPONENTS

Learning Objective: After reading this information sheet, you must be able to be
familiar installing built-in and/or pre- fabricated cabinets components

Drawer Guides

There are many ways of guiding drawers. The type of drawer guide selected affects
the size of the drawer. The drawer must be supported level and guided sideways. It must
also be kept from tilting down when opened.

Figure 71. Wood drawer guides are installed in several ways.

 Wood Guides

Probably the simplest wood guide is the center strip. It is installed in the bottom
center of the opening from front to back. The strip projects above the bottom of the opening
about 1/4 inch. The bottom edge of the drawer back is notched to ride in the guide. A kicker
is installed. It is centered above the drawer to keep it from tilting downward when opened.

Figure 72. Simple center wood drawer guide. The back of the drawer is notched to run on the
guide

Another type of wood guide is the grooved center strip. The strip is placed in the
center of the opening from front to back. A matching strip is fastened to the drawer bottom.
In addition to guiding the drawer, this system keeps it from tilting when opened, eliminating
the need for drawer kickers.

Figure 73. the grooved center wood drawer guide eliminates the need of a kicker.
 Another type of wood guide is a rabbeted strip. Strips are used on each side of the
drawer opening. The drawer sides fit into and slide along the rabbeted pieces. Sometimes
these guides are made up of two pieces instead of rabbeting one piece. A kicker above the
drawer is necessary with this type guide.

Figure 74. Rabbeted wood guides are installed on each side of the drawer.

Metal Drawer Guides

There are many different types of metal drawer guides. Some have a single track
mounted on the bottom center of the opening- Others may be centered above or on each
side of the drawer. Nylon rollers mounted on the drawer ride in the track of the guide.
 Figure 75. Installing metal drawer guides

Instructions for installation differ with each type and manufacturer. When
using commercially made drawer guides, read the instructions first before making
the drawer so proper allowances for the drawer guide can be made.