Chapter 9

Rizal's Grand Tour of

After the publication of the Noli, Rizal planned to visit the important places in Europe.
Dr. Maximo Viola agreed to be his traveling companion. Rizal had received Paciano's
remittance of P1,000 which was forwarded by Juan Luna from Paris. He immediately paid
Viola the sum of P300 which the latter kindly loaned so that the Noli could be printed.
Having paid his debt, and with adequate funds in his pocket, he was ready to see Europe
before returning to Calamba. First, he and Viola visited Potsdam, a city near Berlin, which
Frederick the great made famous.
The Tour Begins. At dawn of May 11, 1887, Rizal, and Viola, two brown-skinned
doctors on a roaming spree, left Berlin by train. It was an ideal season for travel. Spring was
in the air, and all over Europe the flowers were blooming, the meadows were turning green,
and the villages were humming with activity. According to Viola, the luggage of Rizal
included all the letters he had received from his (Rizal's) family and friends. Their
destination was Dresden, "one of the best cities in Germany".
Dresden. Rizal and Viola tarried for some time in Dresden. Their visit coincided
with the regional floral exposition Rizal, who was interested in botany, studied the
“numerous plant varieties of extraordinary beauty and size". They visited Dr. Adolph B.
Meyer, who was overjoyed to see them. In the Museum of Art, which they also visited, Rizal
was deeply impressed by a painting of "Prometheus Bound" and recalled seeing a
representation of the same idea in an art gallery in Paris.
While strolling at the scene of the Floral Exposition, they met Dr. Jagor. Upon
hearing of their plan to visit Letmeritz (now Litomerice, Czechoslovakia) in order to see
Blumentritt for the first time, Dr. Jargor advised them to wire Blumentritt of their coming
because the old professor was of a nervous disposition and he might suffer a shock at their
sudden visit.
Teschen (now Decin, Czechoslovakia) was their next stopover after Ieaving Dresden. Rizal
and Viola sent a wire to Blumentritt, as per suggestion of Dr. Jagor.
First Meeting with Blumentritt. At 1:30 p.m. Of May 13, 1887, the train, with Rizal
and Viola on board. arrived at the railroad station of Leitmeritz, Bohemia. Professor
Blumentritt who had received their wire, was at the station. He was carrying a pencil sketch
of Rizal which the letter had previously sent him, so that he could identify his Filipino friend.
He warmly received Rizal and Viola.
For the first time, the two great scholars — Rizal and Blumentritt — who came to
know each other by correspondence, met in person. "They greeted each other in fluent
German. Blumentritt was a kind-hearted, Old Austrian professor. Upon seeing the talented
Rizal for the first time, he immediately took him into heart, loving him as a son.
Professor Blumentritt, the genial host, helped Rizal and Viola get a room at Hotel
Krebs, after which he brought them to his home and introduced them to his wife and family.
The two Filipino tourists spent many pleasant hours at the home of their kind host. They
stayed in Leitmeritz from May 13 to May 16, 1887.
Beautiful Memories or Leitmeritz. Rizal had beautiful memories of his visit to
Leitmeritz.He enjoyed the warm hospitality of the Blumentritt family. The professor's wife
Rosa, was a good cook, and she prepared special Austrian dishes which Rizal liked very
much. His children were Dolores (called Dota or Dorita by Rizal), Conrad and Fritz.
 Blumentritt proved to be a great tourist guide as well as a hospitable host. He
showed the scenic and historical spots of Leitmeritz to his visitors. One afternoon he invited
them to a beer garden where the best beer of Bohemia was served. At a near table there
was a lively discussion among the drinkers about the advisability of having the railroad pass
through a neighboring town. One of the men in the group was the burgomaster (town
mayor) of that town, Blumentritt knew the burgomaster, so that he approached the party
and delightfully introduced his two Filipino friends. Rizal talked in fluent German, for which
reason the burgomaster and his friends were amazed. The burgomaster asked Rizal how
long it took him to learn German. And Rizal replied: "Eleven months, sir". The burgomaster
was further amazed, and in great admiration, he lauded the "privileged talent" of Rizal.
Blumentritt embraced Rizal, telling him that few Germans could speak well their own
language as Rizal could.
On another afternoon Rizal and Viola were invited to a meeting of the Tourists' Club
of Leitmeritz, of which Blumentritt was the secretary. Rizal spoke extemporaneously in
fluent German to the officers and members, praising Austria's idyllic scenes and its
hospitable, nature-loving, and noble people. The audience wildly applauded him, for they
were enchanted by his eloquence and fluency in German.
Rizal, desiring to commemorate his happy hours at the Blumentritt home, painted a
portrait of the kind professor and gave it him. Blumentritt was pleased with the gift.
It was during his visit to Leitmeritz when Rizal met another renowned scientist of
Europe, Dr. Carlos Czepelak. Blumentritt brought him to Czepelak's home, and Rizal had a
nice conversation with this Polish scholar. Blumentritt also introduced Rizal to Professor
Robert Klutschak, an eminent naturalist.
On their last night in Leitmeritz, Rizal and Viola, to reciprocate Blumentritt's
hospitality, tendered a banquet — a farewell dinner-in his honor at their hotel.
On May 16, at 9:45 A.M., Rizal and Viola left Leitmeritz by train. Blumentritt, his wife,
and children were at the railroad station to see them off, and they all shed tears in parting as
the train slowly departed.
Rizal carried unto his grave the beautiful memories of his visit to Leitmeritz. In a
letter to Blumentritt, written in Vienna on May 24, 1887, Rizal expressed his and Viola's
concern for the illness of Dora, the professor's little daughter, "Viola and I," thus wrote Rizal,
"are very sad because our little friend Dora is sick. We still remember her little blue eyes; we
hear her merry laughter, and we see her little teeth. Poor Dorita! I saw her run after us when
the train was leaving! With all my heart I wish her prompt recovery".
In another letter, written in Brunn, Austria, on May 19, 1887, three days after leaving
Leitmeritz, Rizal wrote to Blumentritt.: "I shall make my good friends of Leitmeritz the objects
of my thoughts and I shall say of myself: You are not alone, Rizal; in a small corner of
Bohemia there are good, noble, and friendly souls who like you; think of them; consider
them as if they were with you, as if they saw you; they will rejoice over your joys, and will
weep over your suffering . . . Please kiss the children for me, express my greetings to your
wife, and to your good father and the friends in Leitmeritz. I am at heart an inhabitant of
Leitmeritz just as you yourself are a Filipino in sentiments. I believe Austria will always live
in my heart". In the same letter, Rizal told Blumentritt that he forgot his diamond stickpin at
his room in Hotel Krebs.
Prague. After Leitmeritz, Rizal and Viola visited the historic city of Prague. They
carried letters of recommendation from Blumentritt to Dr. Willkomm, professor of natural
history in the University of Prague. The good professor and his charming wife and
daughters welcomed them and showed them the city's historic spots.
Rizal and Viola visited the tomb of Copernicus, the famous astronomer; the museum
of natural history; the bacteriological laboratories; the famous cave where San Juan
Nepomuceno, the Catholic saint, was imprisoned; and the bridge from which this saint was
hurled into the river.
 After saying good-bye to Professor Willkomm and his family, the two tourists went to
Brunn. According to Viola, "nothing of importance happened" in this city.
Vienna. On May 20, Rizal and Viola arrived in the beautiful city of Vienna, capital of
Austria-Hungary. Famous in song and story, this city fascinated Rizal because of its
beautiful buildings, religious images, haunting waltzes, and majestic charm. Vienna was
truly the "Queen of the Danube".
Rizal and Viola, armed with a letter of recommendation from Blumentritt, met
Norfenfals, one of the greatest novelists in Europe during that time. This great Austrian
novelist was favorably impressed by Rizal, and years later he spoke highly of Rizal, "whose
genius he so much admired".
In Vienna, Rizal received his lost diamond stickpin. It was found by a maid in Hotel
Krebs and was given to Blumentritt, who, in turn, forwarded it to Rizal in Vienna.
Rizal and Viola stayed at Hotel Metropole. They visited the city's interesting places,
such as churches, museums, art galleries, theaters, and public parks. They met two good
friends of Blumentritt — Masner and Nordmann, Austrian scholars.
Danubian Voyage to Lintz. On May 24, Rizal and Viola left Vienna on a river boat
to see the beautiful sights of the Danube River. As they traveled along the famous river,
Rizal observed keenly the river sights — the barges loaded with products, the flowers and
plants growing along the river banks, the boats with families living on them, and the quaint
villages on the riversides. We particularly noticed that the passengers on the river boat were
using paper napkins during the meals, which was a novelty to him. His fellow passenger,
Viola, commented that the paper napkins were "more hygienic and economical than cloth
napkins".
From Lintz to Rheinfall. The river voyage ended in Lintz. They traveled overland to
Salzburg, and from there to Munich where they sojourned for a short time to savor the
famous Munich beer, reputed to be the best in Germany.
From Munich, they went to Nuremberg, one of the oldest cities of Germany. Among
the sights which they saw in this city were the horrible torture machines used by the
Inquisition. Rizal examined Carefully these torture machines. He and Viola were impressed
by the manufacture of dolls which was the biggest industry of the city.
After Munich, they visited Ulm. The cathedral of this city was "the largest and tallest
in all Germany". Viola related that he and Rizal climbed its many hundred steps. He rested
twice on the way to the tower and felt dizzy from the strain upon reaching the top. Rizal, on
the other hand, ascended without resting and was not tired when he reached the top.
From Ulm, they went to Stuttgart, Baden, and then Rheinfall (Cascade of the Rhine).
At Rheinfall, they saw the waterfall, "the most beautiful waterfall of Europe".
Crossing the Frontier to Switzerland. From Rheinfall, they crossed the frontier to
Schaffhausen, Switzerland. They stayed in this city from June 2 to 3, 1887. They continued
their tour to Basel (Bale), Bern, and Lausanne.
Geneva. After sightseeing in Lausanne, Rizal and Viola left on a little boat, crossing
the foggy Leman Lake to Geneva. This Swiss city is one of the most beautiful cities in
Europe, visited by world tourists every year. The people of Geneva were linguists speaking
French, German, and Italian. Rizal conversed with them in these three languages.
Aside from visiting the tourist spots, Rizal and Viola went boating on the lake. In this
aquatic excursion, Rizal showed his rowing prowess which he acquired during his boyhood
days in Calamba.
On June 19, 1887, Rizal treated Viola to a blow-out. It was his 26th birthday.
According to a Filipino custom, he celebrated his birthday with a sumptuous meal.
Rizal and Viola spent fifteen delightful days in Geneva. On June 23, they parted ways —
Viola returned to Barcelona while Rizal continued the tour to Italy.
 Rizal Resents Exhibition of Igorots in 1887 Madrid Exposition. While Rizal,
accompanied by Dr. Viola, was happily touring Europe, an Exposition of the Philippines was
held in Madrid, Spain. Upon reaching Geneva (Switzerland), he received sad news from his
friends in Madrid of the deplorable conditions of the primitive Igorots who were exhibited in
this exposition, some of whom died, and whose scanty clothing (G-strings) and crude
weapons were objects of mockery and laughter by the Spanish people and press.
Being a champion of human dignity, Rizal was outraged by this degradation of his
fellow countrymen the Igorots of Northern Luzon. In a letter to his friend, Blumentritt, dated
Geneva, June 6, 1887, he said:
"My poor compatriots (Igorots — Z) who are now being exhibited in Madrid
are mocked by Spanish newspapers, except El Liberal which says that it is not
consistent with human dignity to be exhibited side by side with animals and plants. I
have done everything possible to prevent the display of this degradation of men of
my race, but I have not succeeded. Now one woman died of pneumonia. The Igorots
were housed in a barraca (rustic house made of bamboo, grass, and tree branches
— Z). And El Resumen still makes mean jokes about it!"
In another letter to Blumentritt, dated Geneva, June 19, 1887, Rizal said he was in
favor of holding an exposition, "but not an exhibition of odd individuals, showing our
countrymen as a curiosity to entertain the idle inhabitants of Madrid". He emphatically
reiterated: "We want an industrial exposition, but not an exhibition of human beings who are
compelled to live almost outdoors and die of nostalgia and pneumonia or typhus!"
Rizal in Italy. From Geneva, Rizal went to Italy. He visited Turin, Milan, Venice, and
Florence. On June 27, 1887, he reached Rome, the "Eternal City" and also called the "City
of the Caesars".
He was thrilled by the sights and memories of the Eternal City. Describing to
Blumentritt, the "grandeur that was Rome", he wrote on June 27, 1887.
I am in Rome! Everything I step on is the dust of heroes. Here I breathe the
same air which the Roman heroes have breathed. I salute every statue with
reverence, and to me, a humble native of a small island, it seems that I am in a
sanctuary. I have already seen the Capitolium, the Tarpeian Rock, the Palatinum,
the Forum Romanum, the Amphitheatre, etc. Everything here is glorious except the
cafes and the cafe singers. I do not enter these (cafes) because I loathe to hear their
French songs or see modern industries. My favorite places are the Amphitheatre
and the Roman Forum; there I remain seated for hours, contemplating everything
and restoring life to the ruins. . . I have also visited some churches and museums,
like the Capitoline Museum and the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, which is also
grandiose.
On June 29th, the Feast Day of St. Peter and St. Paul, Rizal visited for the first time
the Vatican, the "City of the Popes" and the capital of Christendom. He was deeply
impressed by the magnificent edifices, particularly of St. Peter's Church, the rare works of
art, the vast St. Peter's Square, the colorful Papal Guards and the atmosphere of religious
devotion that pervaded the Vatican.
Every night, after sightseeing the whole day, Rizal returned to his hotel, very tired, "I
am tired as a dog," he wrote to Blumentritt, "but I will sleep as a god".
After a week of wonderful sojourn in Rome, he prepared to return to the Philippines.
He had already written to his father that he was coming home.