After-Shower Lotion

SUPPLIER: Uniqema 
 FORMULA: After-Shower Lotion 
 DATE: April 1995 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Slowly add B to A with good agitation. When dissolved,
add C. In a separate container, mix D with E; heat to
65°C with mixing. When dissolved, cool to 30-35°C; add
 PROCEDURE:
F. Blend DEF in ABC, mixing well. Add G as a slurry;
blend until a uniform white lotion is obtained. Add H as
required; package. 

PHASE (A)
 51.65% Water (aqua)
PHASE (B)
 0.25% Carbomer
PHASE (C)
 0.40% Triethanolamine, 99%
PHASE (D)
 30.00% Water (aqua)
PHASE (E)
 1.00% Stearamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride phosphate (and) cetyl
alcohol (Phospholipid SV, Uniqema)
PHASE (F)
 15.00% Ethanol
PHASE (G)
 1.50% Phenyl dimethicone
 0.20% Titanium dioxide, cosmetic white
PHASE (H)
  Preservatives
  Fragrance (parfum)
  Colorants

After-Sun Cream

SUPPLIER: Secma 

1
 FORMULA: After-Sun Cream 
 DATE: December 1996 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Sun Care 
Heat A to 85°C. Heat B to 85-90°C until
homogeneous. Mix A and B for 15-20 min. Begin
 PROCEDURE:
to cool. At 45°C, add C. At 35°C, add D, then E
and F. 

PHASE (A)
 5.00% Sorbitan stearate
 5.00% Mineral oil (paraffinum liquidum)
 5.00% Hydrogenated nut oil (Labs Prod'Hyg
 5.00% Glyceryl stearate
 3.00% Triglycerides C8-10
 3.00% Octyldodecanol , Cognis Corp)
 3.00% Cetearyl octanoate
 0.15% Propylparaben
PHASE (B)
 1.50% Potassium cetyl phosphate
 0.20% Methylparaben
 0.10% Sodium citrate
 0.10% Glyccyrhetinic acid
  Water (aqua)
PHASE (C)
 2.00% Propylene glycol
 0.10% Ocymen-5-ol , Jan Dekker International)
PHASE (D)
 2.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 0.40% Hydrolyzed Ulva lactuca extract (Aosaine, Presperse)
PHASE (E)
 3.00% Propylene glycol (and) water (aqua) (and) Codium tomentosum
extract
PHASE (F)
 0.20% Fragrance (parfum)

After-Sun Cream with Aloe Vera and Evening

Primrose

After-Sun Cream with Aloe Vera and Evening

FORMULA:
Primrose 
 DATE: December 1996 

2
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Sun Care 
Heat A to 75°C. Stir B, heat to the same
 PROCEDURE: temperature and emulsify into A. At about 35°C,
add C. 

PHASE (A)
 7.00% Glyceryl stearate citrate (Imwitor 370, Sasol)
 5.00% Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate (Imwitor 375, Sasol)
 3.00% Glyceryl cocoate (Imwitor 928, Sasol)
 2.00% Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis)
 2.00% Aloe barbadensis extract (Aloe Vera Lipo Quinone Extract, Terry
Labs)
 12.00% Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Miglyol 812
PHASE (B)
 3.00% d-Panthenol
 15.00% Carbomer, 1% (Carbopol gel, Noveon)
 0.20% Allantoin
  Water (aqua)
  Preservatives
PHASE (C)
 0.20% Vitamin E
  Fragrance (parfum)

AHA Cream for Sensitive Skin

FORMULA: AHA Cream for Sensitive Skin 

 DATE: April 1995 
AHA cream formulated with moisturizing
 NARRATIVE: seaweed biopolymers to protect the skin from
irritation caused by AHAs. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 

3
 Disperse B with stirring. Heat to 80° and add C.
Mix A at 80°C and add to B with good stirring.
 PROCEDURE:
Allow to cool; at 35°C, add C. Add D and mix
until homogeneous. pH range: 2.5-3.0. 

PHASE (A)
 7.00% Dioctyl maleate
 4.00% Cyclomethicone
 3.00% Squalane , Int'l Sourcing)
 3.00% PPG-12/SMDI copolymer
 2.50% Stearic acid
 2.50% Laneth-15
 2.00% Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate
 2.00% Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20
 1.00% Dimethicone
PHASE (B)
 0.50% Xanthan gum
  Water (aqua)
PHASE (C)
 5.00% Hypnea musciformis extract (and) Gelidiela acerosa extract (and)
Sargassum filipendula extract (and) sorbitol (Ormagel SH
PHASE (D)
 7.50% Lactic acid, 85% solution , Int'l Sourcing)
PHASE (E)
  Fragrance (parfum)
  Preservatives

AHA Soft Creme

FORMULA: AHA Soft Creme 

 DATE: June 1999 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Heat A to 70°C. Heat B to 72°C. Add B to A
 PROCEDURE: slowly with stirring. Homogenize for 1 min, add
C with stirring. Stir until 30°C. 

PHASE (A)

4
  9.00% PPG stearyl ether (Arlamol E, ICI)
 4.00% Steareth-2 (Brij 72, ICI)
 2.00% Steareth-21 (Brij 721, ICI)
 1.50% Stearic acid
 1.00% Stearyl alcohol
 1.00% Dimethicone, 20 cst
PHASE (B)
 65.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 4.00% Propylene glycol
PHASE (C)
 12.50% Lactic acid (and) citric acid (and) malic acid (and) tea extract

All-Purpose Shampoo for Normal Hair

SUPPLIER: Pilot Chemical 

 FORMULA: All-Purpose Shampoo for Normal Hair 
 DATE: April 1996 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
Combine A and mix. Add B to pH to 5.5-6-5. Add
 PROCEDURE: C to achieve desired viscosity. Compatibility of D
was not evaluated. 

PHASE (A)

5
  50.00% Water (aqua)
 5.00% Cocamidopropyl betaine (Caltaine C-35, Pilot Chemical)
 40.00% Sodium laureth sulfate (Calfoam ES-303, Pilot Chemical)
 1.50% Lauramide DEA (Calamide LLL, Pilot Chemical)
PHASE (B)
 0.07% Citric acid
PHASE (C)
 2.50% Sodium chloride
PHASE (D)
  Colorants
  Fragrance (parfum)

Aloe Vera Gel

SUPPLIER: ISP 
 FORMULA: Aloe Vera Gel 
 DATE: July 1993 
Aloe vera and cucumber extract soothe and
 NARRATIVE:
cool sunburned skin. 
 CATEGORY: Sun Care 
 PROCEDURE: Meter A into maiin mixing tank. Begin heating
to 80-85°C. Sprinkle in B with moderate
agitation. Hold batch at 80-85°C, with mixing,
for 25 min. Begin cooling. Add C. When batch
temperature reaches 60°C, add D; mix well.
Add E, mixing until uniform and thick.
Continue cooling. Add F in the order given,

6
 mixing until uniform after each addition.
Premix G; add to batch below 48 degrees C.
Cool to 32 degrees C; package. 
PHASE (A)
 90.78% Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (B)
 0.55% PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer (Stabileze-06,
Rohm and Haas)
PHASE (C)
  FD&C yellow no. 5
  FD&C blue no. 1
PHASE (D)
 0.02% Aloe barbadensis powder
PHASE (E)
 0.70% Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, 50% soln
(Suttocide A, ISP)
PHASE (F)
 3.50% Propylene glycol
 2.75% Glycereth-26
 1.00% Polyglyceryl methacrylate (and) propylene glycol
 0.10% Cucumber (Cucumis sativa) extract
 0.05% Disodium EDTA
PHASE (G)
 0.50% Polysorbate 20
 0.05% Fragrance (parfum)

Aloe Vera Bath Gel, Mandarin

SUPPLIER: Aloecorp 
 FORMULA: Aloe Vera Bath Gel, Mandarin 
 DATE: April 1995 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Skin Cleansing 
Mix A, heating to 70°C. Mix well for 30 min. Add
 PROCEDURE: B to A at 40°C; mix well for 20 min. Adjust color
with C and pH with D. 

 
PHASE (A)
 3.00% Disodium cocoamphodiacetate (Miranol C2M conc., Rhodia)
 25.39% Water (aqua), deionized
 20.00% Sodium laureth sulfate, 30%
 20.00% Sodiium laureth sulfate
 10.00% Glycerin, 96%

7
  10.00% Cocamidopropyl betaine
 10.00% Aloe barbadensis gel (Aloe-1210A, Aloecorp)
PHASE (B)
 1.00% Propylene glycol (and) diazolidinyl urea (and) methylparaben (and)
propylparaben (Germaben II, ISP)
 0.30% Green herbal fragrance (parfum)
 0.20% DMDM hydantoin
 0.10% Orange fragrance (parfum)
PHASE (C)
  FD&C yellow #6, 2%
  FD&C yellow #5, 2%
PHASE (D)
  Citric acid, to pH 6.5

Aloe Vera Thigh Cream

SUPPLIER: Aloecorp 
 FORMULA: Aloe Vera Thigh Cream 
 DATE: April 1995 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Mix A and B separately, heating to 80°C. Add B
to A; mix with high agitation for 30 min. Check
that emulsion is good and batch is not aerated. If
 PROCEDURE: necessary, reheat batch at this point before
proceeding. Heat can damage the cocoa/caffeine
liposome material. Cool to 40 degrees C and add
C; mix well to 30 degrees C. 

PHASE (A)
 9.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 52.00% Aloe barbadensis 100:1 powder
 3.00% Propylene glycol, USP
 0.20% Methylparaben
PHASE (B)

8
  5.00% Octyl palmitate
 3.00% Stearyl alcohol
 3.00% Cyclomethicone 344
 3.00% Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20 (Promulgen D
 2.50% Glyceryl stearate 470
 0.30% Ceteth-20 (Lipocol C20, Lipo)
 0.10% Propylparaben
 0.05% BHT, antioxidant
 0.01% Guarana extract (Guarana Actiphyte, Active Organics)
 0.01% Bladderwrack (Fucus vesiculosus) extract (Bladderwrack
Actiphyte, Active Organics)
PHASE (C)
 16.60% Cocoa 6% (and) caffeine 6%, liposomal
 0.40% Imidazolidinyl urea, 1:1 soln (Germall 115, ISP)
 0.20% Fragrance (parfum)
 0.10% DMDM hydantoin

Anti-Acne Emulsion
SUPPLIER: Creations Couleurs 
 FORMULA: Anti-Acne Emulsion 
 DATE: January 1996 
Perfluorodecalin increases available oxygen, for
 NARRATIVE:
improved wound healing, reduced scarring. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Prepare a gel with D and G; let it thicken under
light stirring. Melt A at 70°C. Hold temperature
 PROCEDURE: constant; add B to A. Heat C to 70°C; add AB
under stirring. At 50°C, add DG, then E, F and H at
room temperature. 
PHASE (A)
 2.50% PEG-6 stearate (and) PEG-32 stearate (Prodhybase
1500, Prod'Hyg)
 2.00% Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (Creamulse
165, Creations Couleurs)
 1.70% Stearic acid
PHASE (B)
 2.00% Polysorbate 60 (Creasorb S20, Creations Couleurs)
 1.50% Meadowfoam (Limnanthes alba) seed oil (and) shea
butter (Butyrospermum parkii) extracts (Fancol VB,
Fancor)
 1.20% Tridecyl stearate (and) tridecyl trimellitate (and)
dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate (Creamos
130, Creations Couleurs)
PHASE (C)
 4.00% Propylene glycol

9
  34.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 0.30% Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and)
ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) butylparaben
(Sepicide HB, Seppic)
 0.20% Imidazolidinyl urea (Sepicide CI, Seppic)
PHASE (D)
 4.00% Carbomer
 35.00% Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (E)
 0.40% Triethanolamine
PHASE (F)
 8.00% Mulberry (Morus alba) extract (and) licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) extract (and)
scutellaria (Scutellaria baicalensis) extract (and) glucose (and) kojic acid
(and) butylene glycol (and) EDTA (and) lactic acid (and) glucosamine
(Prodhyactif Peaux Jeunes, Prod'Hyg)
 0.18% Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) oil , Creations Couleurs)
 0.02% Mint (Mentha) oil , Creations Couleurs)
PHASE (H)
 3.00% Perfluorodecalin (Flutec PC-6, Creations Couleurs)

Antiaging Gel

SUPPLIER: Barnet 
 FORMULA: Antiaging Gel 
 DATE: June 1999 
This formula uses active ingredients for
 NARRATIVE:
antiaging properties. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Mix ABCD and E separately. Agitate A, than
add B, C and D slowly under agitation. Add
 PROCEDURE: E slowly under agitation, emulsifying.
Agitate for 30 min. pH = 6.57; viscosity: 3300
cp (E type viscometer, 10 rpm, 25°C, 5 min). 

PHASE (A)
 5.00% Carbomer (Carbopol 980, Noveon)
 15.00% Acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
(Pemulen TR-1, 2%, Noveon)
PHASE (B)
 37.00% 1,3-Butylene glycol
 0.50% Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and)
butylparaben (and) (Phenonip, Clariant/Nipa)
 0.30% Triethanolamin
 0.01% Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) extract (Licorice
Extract PTH, Barnet)
PHASE (C)
 5.00% Sodium hyaluronate, 1% aq soln (NET-HA 1%,
Barnet)
 2.04% Water (aqua), deionized

10
PHASE (D)
 5.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 0.10% Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (NEG-DG, Barnet)
PHASE (E)
 29.00% Dimethicone copolymer
 1.00% Isopropyl palmitate (IPP, Barnet)
 0.05% Tocopheryl linoleate

Anti-Bacterial Hair Shampoo

SUPPLIER: Ciba Specialty Chemicals 

 FORMULA: Anti-Bacterial Hair Shampoo 
 DATE: June 1998 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
Mix B with 10% water at 50°C until
homogeneous. Add A and a solution of C in
water after cooling down to 40°C. After
 PROCEDURE:
cooling down to 30°C, add D; adjust pH to
6.0 and add water up to 100%. Adjust
viscosity by adding E. 

PHASE (A)
 0.30% Triclosan (and) propylene glycol (Irgasan PG 60,
Ciba Specialty Chemicals)
PHASE (B)
 7.00% Sodium laureth-2 sulfate (Texapon NSO, Cognis Corp)
 4.00% Decyl polyglucose (Plantacare 2000, Cognis Corp)
 2.50% Cocamidopropyl betaine (Tego Betaine L7
 1.50% PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate (Glucamate DOE-120
PHASE (C)
 0.20% Polyquaternium-10 (Ucare Polymer JR 125
PHASE (D)
  Preservatives
  Fragrance (parfum)
  Colorants
PHASE (E)
  Water (aqua), deionized
  Sodium chloride

11
   Citric acid, pH 6.0

Anti-Bacterial Hair Shampoo

FORMULA: Anti-Bacterial Hair Shampoo 

 DATE: June 1998 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
Mix A with 10% water at 70°C until
homogeneous. Add B (1:1 diluted in water)
 PROCEDURE: after cooling down to 40°C. After cooling
down to 30°C; add C. Adjust pH to 6.0 and
qs water. 

PHASE (A)
 4.00% PEG-150 distearate (PEG6000 Distearate, Akzo)
 4.00% Potassium (and) cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamepon S, Cognis)
 2.00% Hydrolyzed collagen (Nutrilan L, Cognis Corp)
 2.00% Laureth-2 (Arlypon F, Cognis)
 12.00% Coco betaine (Dehyton AB 30, Cognis Corp)
 0.20% Triclosan (Irgasan DP 300, Ciba Specialty Chemicals)
PHASE (B)
 0.20% Polyquaternium-7 (Merquat S, Nalco)
PHASE (C)
  Water (aqua), deionized
  Preservatives
  Fragrance (parfum)
  Colorants
  Citric acid, pH 6.0

12
Anti-Bacterial Hand Gel

FORMULA: Anti-Bacterial Hand Gel 

 DATE: December 1998 
This formula shows the benefits of using
 NARRATIVE:
carbomer in a hydro-alcoholic system. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Cleansing 
Add the carbomer of A to the water and mix
well, using propeller agitation, until all the
polymer particles have been thoroughly
dispersed. Add ethanol and mix well. Switch to
 PROCEDURE:
counter-sweep agitation, add pre-mix B, and mix
until the batch is smooth. Add C one at a time
and mix slowly. Add pre-mix slowly. Add pre-
mix D and mix well. 
PHASE (A)
 30.10% Water (aqua), deionized
 30.00% Ethanol, SDA-40B
 0.20% Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10, Noveon)
PHASE (B)
 2.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 0.45% Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine (Neutrol TE,
BASF)
PHASE (C)
 5.00% Isopropyl alcohol
 30.00% Ethanol, SDA-40B
PHASE (D)
 2.00% Nonoxynol-9 (Protachem NP-9, Protameen)
 0.15% Fragrance (parfum) (B5422, Carrubba)
 0.10% dl-Menthol (Menthol, KIC Chemicals, Inc.)

13
Antibacterial Skin Gel

SUPPLIER: Ciba Specialty Chemicals 

 FORMULA: Antibacterial Skin Gel 
 DATE: December 1998 
The soothing effect of triclosan can calm
 NARRATIVE:
irritated skin. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Cleansing 
Mix B at 50°C until homogeneous. Add A and
stir until clear. Disperse C in 60%water and stir
at 50-60°C until complete solubilization. Adjust
 PROCEDURE:
pH to 6.0 with ethanolamine and add C and D to
the mixture of A and B. Adjust pH to 6.0 and
add water to 100.00%. 
PHASE (A)
 0.20% Triclosan (Irgasan DP 300, Ciba Specialty
Chemicals)
PHASE (B)
 3.00% Laureth-90 (Marlipal 24/90
 3.00% PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil (Eumulgin HRE 40, Cognis Corp)
 2.00% Dipropylene glycol
 10.00% Propylene glycol
PHASE (C)
 0.65% Carbomer (Carbopol 940, Noveon)
PHASE (D)
 20.00% Ethanol
  Water (aqua), deionized
  Colorants
  Preservatives
  Fragrance (parfum)

14
Anti-Cellulite Gel

SUPPLIER: Centerchem 
 FORMULA: Anti-Cellulite Gel 
 DATE: April 1995 
The botanical complex has been clinically
 NARRATIVE:
shown to reduce cellulite. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Add ingredients in order, mixing
 PROCEDURE:
thoroughly after each. 
PHASE (A)
 50.00% Glycerin (and) glyceryl polyacrylate (Hispagel 200, Centerchem)
 33.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 3.00% Water (aqua) (and) butylene glycol (and) algae extract (APT,
Centerchem)
 2.00% Sodium hyaluronate (Hyasol BT, Pentapharm)
 12.00% Water (aqua) (and) butcherbroom (Ruscus aculeatus) extract (and)
iodized extensin protein (Pronalen Anti-Cellulite, Provital)
  Preservatives

15
Antisperpirant Stick

FORMULA: Antisperpirant Stick 

 DATE:  
Easy-glide-on, quick-drying stick has virtually no
 NARRATIVE: syneresis or sedimentation of the antiperspirant
active. 
 CATEGORY: Antiperspirant/Deodorant 
Combine A; heat to 80°C and mix well. Add B
under agitation. When gel is homogeneous, add
 PROCEDURE: D. Cool to 65°C. When dispersion is uniform, add
D. Cool to 55°C; fill into proper containers,
stirring continuously during filling. 

PHASE (A)
 5.00% PEG-75
 19.00% Stearyl alcohol (Lanette 18, Cognis)
 1.00% Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate
 0.50% Hydrogenated castor oil (Cutina HR, Cognis Corp)
PHASE (B)
 20.00% Cyclomethicone (and) Al-Mg hydroxystearate (Gilugel SIL5, BK
Giulini)
PHASE (C)
 20.00% Zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-gly (Zirkonal P 10, BK Giulini)
PHASE (D)
 34.50% Cyclomethicone (DC 344 Fluid, Dow Chemical)

16
Antiwrinkle Cream

FORMULA: Antiwrinkle Cream 

 DATE: December 1997 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Heat A to 80°C. Heat B to 80°C. Under mixing,
put A into B. After 15 min of mixing, begin to
 PROCEDURE:
cool. Add C. At 45°C, add D. At 35°C, add E and
F. 

PHASE (A)
 5.00% Cetearyl octanoate
 4.00% Cetostearyl alcohol
 3.50% Sorbitan stearate
 3.00% Propylene glycol dioctanoate
 3.00% Polysorbate 60
 1.00% Dimethicone copolyol
 0.15% Propylparaben
PHASE (B)
 0.20% Methylparaben
 0.10% Glycyrrhetinic acid
  Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (C)
 0.70% Laureth-7 isoparaffin acrylic polymer
PHASE (D)
 2.00% Propylene glycol
 0.10% o-Cymen-5-ol
PHASE (E)
 0.40% Hydrolyzed Ulva lactuca (Aosaine, Presperse)
PHASE (F)
 0.10% Fragrance (parfum)

Anti-Stress Cream

17
FORMULA: Anti-Stress Cream 
 DATE: June 1999 
This formula uses active ingredients to brighten
 NARRATIVE:
and clarify the skin. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Heat A and B separately to over 80°C. Heat C
and D separately at 50°C. Add B to A while
 PROCEDURE: keeping 80°C and stirring with homogenizer at
5,000 rpm for 7 min. Stir at 200 rpm and cool.
Add C and D at 50°C and cool to 35°C. 

PHASE (A)
 7.00% Squalane NF (Carolane, Barnet)
 6.00% Glyceryl trioctanoate (Net Trioctanoin, Barnet)
 3.00% Stearyl alcohol (Lipocol S, Lipo)
 2.50% Polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate (and) behenyl alcohol (and) sodium
stearoyl lactylate (Nikkomulese 41, Barnet)
 2.00% Macadamia ternifolia nut oil
 0.70% Phenoxyethanol
 0.10% Tocopherol
 0.10% Stearyl glycyrrhetinate (NET-STG, Barnet)
 0.10% Propylparaben
 0.05% Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) extract (Licorice Extract PTH, Barnet)
PHASE (B)
 5.00% Butylene glycol
 23.25% Water (aqua), deionized
 15.00% Xanthan gum (Keltrol, 2% aq soln, CP Kelco)
 0.20% Methylparaben
 0.10% PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil (HCO-100, Barnet)
PHASE (C)
 4.90% Water (aqua), deionized
 3.00% Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (VC-PMG, Barnet)
PHASE (D)
 26.40% Water (aqua), deionized
 0.50% Sodium citrate
 0.10% Tetrasodium EDTA

Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream

FORMULA: Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream 

 DATE: July 1997 

18
 An elegant, white creamy emulsion delivering
 NARRATIVE: sodium lactate (and) lecithin to help eliminate
wrinkles. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Combine A with mixing, heat to 80°C. Heat B to
 PROCEDURE: 80°C. Add A to B with agitation. Cool with
stirring to 35°C, add C. 

PHASE (A)
 6.00% Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) seed oil
 6.00% Isopropyl palmitate
 3.00% Cetearyl alcohol
 2.60% Glyceryl acetate
 2.00% Sodium behenoyl lactylate
PHASE (B)
 71.20% Water (aqua), deionized
 3.00% Glycerin
PHASE (C)
 6.00% Sodium lactate (and) lecithin (Rovisome-AHA, RITA)
 0.20% DMDM hydantoin

Baby Shampoo with Olive Oil

SUPPLIER: Degussa 
 FORMULA: Baby Shampoo with Olive Oil 
 DATE: April 1996 
 NARRATIVE: Extra-mild with good refatting. 

19
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
Combine ingredients. Heat to 40°C. Stir until
 PROCEDURE:
homogeneous. 

5.00% PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides (Softigen 767, Sasol)

 4.00% POE-propylene glycol dioleate (Antil 141 Liquid
 3.00% Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate (Imwitor 375, Sasol)
 15.00% Laureth-11 carboxylic acid (Marlinat CM 100/80
 15.00% Cocamidopropyl betaine (Ampholyt JB 130/K
 1.00% Olive (Olea europaea) oil
  Fragrance (parfum)
  Water (aqua), deionized
  Preservatives

Balanced Action Exfoliation Lotion

FORMULA: Balanced Action Exfoliation Lotion 
 DATE: July 1997 
This lotion features anti-inflammatory plant extractives
working synergistically with a honey-derived hydroxy
 NARRATIVE:
acid source to provide effective exfoliation with minimum
irritation. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
 PROCEDURE: Disperse B in A with strong mixing. When fully
homogeneous, add C in sequence to AB and heat to
70°C. In a separate vessel combine C, heat to 70°C and

20
 mix to homogeneity. Add D to ABC slowly with mixing.
When uniform start cooling. At 50°C, add E. Continue
cooling with strong mixing to 30°C. With continued
mixing, add F in sequence. 
PHASE (A)
 14.70% Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (B)
 0.30% Carbomer (Carbopol 940, Noveon)
PHASE (C)
 49.71% Water (aqua), deionized
 2.00% Butylene glycol
 0.15% Methylparaben (CoSept M, RTD*HallStar)
 0.10% Allantoin , EMD Chemicals (Rona Unit))
PHASE (D)
 4.00% Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oil (CoSafflower, RTD*HallStar)
 3.00% PEG-40 stearate
 3.00% Glyceryl stearate (Alkamuls GMS/C, Rhodia)
 1.50% Octyl palmitate
 1.50% Isopropyl myristate
 1.00% Cetyl alcohol (CoChem CAN, RTD*HallStar)
 0.50% Stearyl alcohol (CoChem SAN, RTD*HallStar)
 0.04% Propylparaben (CoSept P, RTD*HallStar)
PHASE (E)
 3.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 1.10% Triethanolamine (Trolamine 99 NF, Dow Chemical)
PHASE (F)
 5.00% Honey (mel) extract (Actilac H-60, Active Organics)
 4.00% Butylene glycol (and) water (aqua) (and) Camellia sinensis extract (Actiphyte of
Japanese Green Tea Concentrate BG50P, Active Organics)
 4.00% Sodium hyaluronate (and) hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans (Actiglide J, Active
Organics)
 0.50% Tocopheryl acetate
 0.50% Dimethicone (SPF96-350, GE Company)
 0.20% Tocopherol
 0.20% Diazolidinyl urea

Bath Oil with Plant Oils and Aloe

SUPPLIER: Degussa 
 FORMULA: Bath Oil with Plant Oils and Aloe 
 DATE: January 1996 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Mix all ingredients; heat to about 40°C and stir
 PROCEDURE:
until homogeneous. 

2.00% Carrot (Daucus carota) oil

 2.00% Aloe barbadensis lipo quinone extract
 15.98% Mineral oil (paraffinum liquidum)

21
 15.00% Soybean (Glycine soja) oil
 15.00% Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Miglyol 812
 15.00% Trilaureth-4 phosphate (Hostaphat KL 340 N, Clariant/Nipa)
 15.00% Propylene glycol (and) dicaprylate/dicaprate (Miglyol 840, Sasol)
 10.00% bis-Diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1 (Softisan 645
 10.00% PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides (Softigen 767, Sasol)
 0.02% BHT (and) glyceryl stearate (and) glyceryl oleate (and) ascorbyl palmitate
(and) citric acid (and) propylene glycol (Oxynex 2004, Merck)

Basic Hand and Body Lotion

FORMULA: Basic Hand and Body Lotion 

 DATE: July 1997 
Even though it is simply and inexpensive to
 NARRATIVE: make, this lotion has the feel and performance of
more elegant formulations. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Prepare A by dispersing and wetting B to A. Mix
C with stirring and heat to 70-75°C. Add C to
 PROCEDURE:
AB with stirring. Emulsify for 20 min. Allow to
cool with stirring. At 45°C, add D. 
PHASE (A)
 73.10% Water (aqua), deionized

22
  1.00% Magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum Ultra,
Vanderbilt)
 0.10% Xanthan gum (Rhodigel, Vanderbilt)
PHASE (B)
 5.00% Glycerin
 1.00% Aloe barbadensis gel (Aloe AG045, Terry Labs)
 0.80% Triethanolamine
PHASE (C)
 9.00% Mineral oil (paraffinum liquidum)
 3.00% Isopropyl myristate (HallStar IPM, RTD*HallStar)
 3.00% Glyceryl stearate (HallStar GS, RTD*HallStar)
 2.10% Stearic acid
 1.00% Lanolin oil (Protalan Oil, Protameen)
 0.50% Acetylated lanolin alcohol (Protalan MOD, Protameen)
PHASE (D)
 1.00% Diazolidinyl urea (and) propylene glycol (and) methylparaben (and)
propylparaben (Germaben II, ISP)

Barrier Restructuring Cream

SUPPLIER: Centerchem 
 FORMULA: Barrier Restructuring Cream 
 DATE: December 1997 
Lightly textured skin emulsion containing
human-identical ceramides to
restore/maintain the skin’s natural barrier
 NARRATIVE:
function, and locust bean gum, a
botanically derived humectant polymer with
properties similar to hyaluronic acid. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
 PROCEDURE: Weight and heat C to 80°C. Disperse B into
A water using moderate propeller
agitationuntil fully uniform. Add C to AB
with both uniform and at 80°C. Cool to 35°C.

23
 Add D and E. Mix until uniform. 
PHASE (A)
  Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (B)
 8.00% Glycerin (and) glyceryl polyacrylate (Hispagel 200, Centerchem)
PHASE (C)
 3.00% Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate
 2.50% Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20
 2.25% Myristyl myristate
 2.10% Steareth-2
 2.00% Vegetal squalane (Fitoderm, Cognis Iberia)
 1.50% Cetyl alcohol
 1.25% Laureth-23
 0.50% Silicone 200/100 cts
PHASE (D)
 3.00% Locust bean (Ceratonia siliqua) gum (Phytaluronate,
Centerchem)
 3.00% Milk (lac) lipids (and) ceramide-3 (Lactomide, Centerchem)
PHASE (E)
  Fragrance (parfum)
  Preservatives

Body Contour Gel

SUPPLIER: Gattefosse 
 FORMULA: Body Contour Gel 
 DATE: December 1998 
This body contour gel contains an extract
from the berry of the guarana plant. This
 NARRATIVE:
extract has lipolytic activity substantiated in
vitro. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Disperse carbomer into water. Let stand.
Neutralize with the sodium hydroxide
 PROCEDURE:
solution. While slow stirring, add the other
components. 

PHASE (A)
 12.00% Butylene glycol
 0.20% Carbomer
  Water (aqua), deionized
  Preservatives

24
PHASE (B)
 0.40% Sodium hydroxide, 10% soln
PHASE (C)
 4.00% Ethoxydiglycol (Transcutol CG, Gattefosse)
 20.00% Alcohol
PHASE (D)
 7.00% Propylene glycol (and) water (aqua) (and) guarana (Paullinia
cupana) extract (Optivegetol Guarana P107 Hydro, Gattefosse)
 2.00% Butylene glycol (and) water (aqua) (and) horse chestnut
(Aesculus hippocastanum) extract (Vegetol Horse Chestnut
GR416, Gattefosse)
PHASE (E)
 10.00% Glyceryl polymethacrylate (and) propylene glycol

Body Contour Gel

SUPPLIER: Biosil 
 FORMULA: Body Contour Gel 
 DATE: July 1997 
This clear, non-tacky gel contains natural,
specially processed and effectively active
 NARRATIVE:
algae (Lithotamnium calcarum) extract for
body contouring (anti-cellulite activity). 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Sprinkle B into A with good agitation.
When completely wetted and dispersed,
add C, mix well, avoid air entrapment. In a
 PROCEDURE: separate container, add D and heat with
mixing to 50°C. When uniform, add to
batch with mixing. Add E, mix well. Add F,
mix well. Add F, mix well. 
PHASE (A)
  Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (B)
 0.50% Carbomer 940 (Carbopol 940 Ultrez 10, Noveon)
PHASE (C)
 0.40% Triethanolamine, 99%

25
PHASE (D)
 4.00% Propylene glycol
 2.00% Dimethicone copolyol (Biowax 754, Biosil)
PHASE (E)
 1.00% Propylene glycol (and) methylparaben (and) propylparaben (and)
diazolidinyl urea (Germaben II, ISP)
PHASE (F)
 5.00% Propylene glycol (and) algae extract (and) ivy (Hedera helix) extract
(and) hydrocotyl (Centella asiatica) extract (and) bladderwack (Fucus
vesiculosus) extract (Herbal Slimming Complex 17-EG-1, Biosil)
PHASE (G)
 0.20% Algae (Lithotamnium calcarum) extract (Phyco R75, Biosil)

Body Cream

SUPPLIER: Lonza 
 FORMULA: Body Cream 
 DATE: December 1997 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Heat A and B to 70°C. Add A to B with
proper agitation. When uniform, add C and
 PROCEDURE:
continue stirring while cooling to 45°C. Add
D and then continue cooling to 25°C. 

PHASE (A)
 5.00% Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate
(Lonzest MSA, Lonza)
 5.00% Myristyl propionate (Lonzest 143-S, Lonza)
 3.00% Coconut (Cocos nucifera) butter
 2.00% Mineral oil (paraffinum liquidum)
 1.00% Cetyl alcohol
PHASE (B)
 80.30% Water (aqua), deionized
 3.00% Sorbitol (Hystar CG
 0.30% Carbomer (Carbopol 934, Noveon)
 0.10% Sodium lauryl sulfate (Carsonol SLS-R, Lonza)
PHASE (C)

26
  0.30% Triethanolamine
PHASE (D)
  DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (Glydant Plus,
Lonza)

Body Moisturizer with Wild Borage Oil

FORMULA: Body Moisturizer with Wild Borage Oil 

 DATE: April 1995 
Wild borage oil is rich in GLA; the silicone
 NARRATIVE: ester promotes easy spreading with a rich
afterfeel. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Disperse B in cool A and bring to 70°C with
mixing. While heating, add C. Separately
 PROCEDURE: heat D to 70°C. Add D to ABC with both at
70°C. Use high-shear mixing for 5 min, then
cool with slow mixing. Add E to suit. 

PHASE (A)
 76.56% Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (B)
 0.13% Xanthan gum
PHASE (C)
 5.00% Propylene glycol, USP
 1.50% Sodium PCA
 0.50% Methylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) phenoxyethanol (and) 2-
bomo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (Nipaguard BPX, Clariant/Nipa)
 0.02% Lactic acid , PURAC America, Inc)
PHASE (D)
 4.00% Decyl oleate (AEC Decyl Oleate, A&E Connock)
 3.00% Cocoa butter, refined , A&E Connock)
 3.00% Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care 450

27
  2.00% Glyceryl stearate (Lasemul 92N40
 2.00% Dilauryl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate (AEC Dilauryl
Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate, A&E Connock)
 1.00% Wild borage (Borago officinalis) oil , A&E Connock)
 1.00% Cetearyl alcohol , Croda)
PHASE (E)
 0.30% Fragrance (parfum)
  Colorants

Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

SUPPLIER: GE Company 
 FORMULA: Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo 
 DATE: April 1996 
Conditioning shampoo provides soft,
smooth, silky feel and stops dry, frizzy
 NARRATIVE: ends; 20% active emulsion of substantive,
non-curable amine-functional fluid remains
clear upon dilution for a clear product. 
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
Heat A to 65°C. Feather in B with rapid
agitation until dissolved. Reduce to
moderate agitation; add C in order shown.
 PROCEDURE:
Melt D in separate container; add to ABC.
Cool to 40°C; add E. In a separate container,
combine F. At 40°C or less, add F to batch. 

PHASE (A)
 37.12% Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (B)
 0.15% Methylparaben
 0.05% Propylparaben
PHASE (C)
 24.00% Ammonium lauryl sulfate, 26%
 14.30% Ammonium laureth sulfate, 28%
 11.43% Cocamidopropyl betaine
 1.00% Dimethicone copolyol (SF1188 or SF1288, GE Company)
PHASE (D)
 4.00% Cocamide MEA
 0.95% PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate , Rohm and Haas)
PHASE (E)

28
  2.50% Trimethylsilylamodimethicone (and) octoxynol-40 (and) isolaureth-6
(and) glycerin (SM2115-D2, GE Company)
PHASE (F)
 2.50% Polysorbate 80
 2.00% Glycerin
  Fragrance (parfum)

Clear Conditioning Shampoo

SUPPLIER: ICI 
 FORMULA: Clear Conditioning Shampoo 
 DATE: June 1998 
Clear formulation with cetrimonium
 NARRATIVE: chloride; conditiong after feel; good
cleansing. 
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
Stir A at room temperature until mixture is
uniform. Add B to A with moderate stirring.
 PROCEDURE:
Adjust pH to 6.5 with C. Add D and E with
moderate stirring. 

PHASE (A)
 63.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 3.00% Lauramide DEA (Monamid 1034, Uniqema)
 28.50% Sodium laureth sulfate, 28.5% active (Stepanol AM, Stepan)
 2.50% C9-15 alkyl phosphate (Arlatone MAP Concentrate, ICI)
PHASE (B)
 1.60% Cetrimonium chloride, 30% active (Ammonyx CETAC-3, Stepan)
PHASE (C)
 1.10% Potassium hydroxide, KOH, 45% aq soln
PHASE (D)
 0.10% Quaternium-15 (Dowicil 200, Dow Chemical)
PHASE (E)
 0.20% Fragrance (parfum) , Bell Flavors)

29
Clear Conditioning Shampoo

SUPPLIER: Protameen 
 FORMULA: Clear Conditioning Shampoo 
 DATE: June 1998 
Sodium isostearoyl lactylate is substantive to hair
 NARRATIVE: imparting con-ditioning effects, hair repair and
moisturization. 
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
With smooth agitation, add B to A. Heat to 40°C.
Mix until uniform and add C. Premix B and add
 PROCEDURE: to A. Premix E and add to ABC and D. Add F
and Mix. Adjust the pH with citric acid to 5.0-6.0.
Use sodium chloride to adjust viscosity. 

PHASE (A)
 58.25% Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (B)
 35.00% Sodium laureth sulfate (and) cocamide DEA (and) cocamidopropyl
betaine (and) citric acid (Protamate Foaming Concentrate,
Protameen)
PHASE (C)
 2.00% Sodium isostearoyl lactylate (Protaquat ISL,
Protameen)
PHASE (D)
 0.50% PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate (Phoenate GC-7, Phoenix)
 0.05% Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate
PHASE (E)
 3.30% Water (aqua), deionized
 0.30% Imidazolidinyl urea (Unicide U-13, Protameen)
 0.25% Hydrolyzed collagen (Prochem 100 CG, Protameen)
 0.25% dl-Panthenol , Protameen)
PHASE (F)
 0.10% Fragrance (parfum) (Herbal 17C002180
  Colorants

30
Clear Gel

SUPPLIER: Croda 
 FORMULA: Clear Gel 
 DATE: July 1993 
A clear gel applicable to the hair-care
market; the surfactant/(water and oil) ratio
 NARRATIVE:
forms the micelle structure responsible for
the ringing. 
 CATEGORY: Hair Conditioning 
Combine A with mixing; heat to 80-85°C.
Combine B with mixing; heat to 80-85°C.
 PROCEDURE:
Add A to B with mixing. Cool to desired fill
temperature (above set point). 

PHASE (A)
 54.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 12.00% Propylene glycol
PHASE (B)
 7.00% Oleth-3 (Volpo 3, Croda)
 4.00% DEA oleth-10 phosphate (Crodafos N10 Neutral, Croda)
 4.00% Oleth-5 (Volpo 5, Croda)
 2.00% DEA oleth-3 phosphate (Crodafos N3 Neutral, Croda)
 17.00% Mineral oil (paraffinum liquidum), 70 ssu

31
Clear Conditioning Styling Gel

SUPPLIER: Noveon 
 FORMULA: Clear Conditioning Styling Gel 
 DATE: April 1996 
Crystal-clear styling gel contains a cationic
 NARRATIVE: conditioning agent and moisturizing botanical
extracts. 
 CATEGORY: Hair Styling/Setting 
Sprinkle B on A. Wet it thoroughly and mix at a
slow speed. Combine C and mix until uniform.
Slowly add C to AB. Mix thoroughly until
dissolved. Dissolve E in half of D. Mix until all
dissolve, separately add to batch. Add F in
 PROCEDURE: order shown. Mix until uniform. Adjust pH to
5.2-5.3 with additional TEA for optimun clarity.
pH 5.2-5.3; viscosity (cPs, Brookfield RVT @ 20
rpm, 25 degrees C, #6 spindle) 12,000-16,000;
Clarity (%T): 76-82 Brinkmann PC801
colorimeter, 420 nm. 
PHASE (A)
 71.45% Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (B)
 0.55% Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10, Noveon)
PHASE (C)
 7.50% PVP/VA copolymer, 50% (Luviskol VA-73W, BASF)
 12.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 12.00% Water (aqua), deionized
 0.20% Triethanolamine, 99%
PHASE (D)
 5.00% Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (E)
 0.05% Disodium EDTA
 0.05% Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS-40, BASF)
PHASE (F)
 1.50% Polyquaternium-39 (Merquat Plus 3330, Nalco)
 1.00% Propylene glycol (and) diazolidinyl urea (and) methylparaben (and)
propylparaben (Germaben II, ISP)
 0.50% Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) extract (and) plantain (Plantago
ovata) extract (and) hydrolyzed wheat protein (and) amino acids
(Moisturizing Phytoamine Biocomplex, Alban Muller)

32
  0.20% Acetamide MEA (Mackamide AME-75, McIntyre)
Conditioning Hair Shampoo

SUPPLIER: Ajinomoto 
 FORMULA: Conditioning Hair Shampoo 
 DATE: December1998 
 NARRATIVE: A clear, viscous liquid. 
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
Combine ingredients with mixing while
heating to 75°C. Allow to mix for 15 min at
 PROCEDURE:
75°C. When uniform, cool to room
temperature with mixing. 

PHASE (A)
 6.00% Disodium cocoyl glutamate (Amisoft CS-22, Ajinomoto)
 55.55% Water (aqua), deionized
 5.00% Cocamidopropyl betaine (Tegobetaine C
 2.00% Sodium PCA (Ajidew NL-50, Ajinomoto)
 2.00% Lauramide DEA (Monamid 716, Uniqema)
 2.00% PEG-120 glucose oleate (Glucamate DOE-120
 14.00% Sodium laureth sulfate (Empicol ESB-70, Rhodia)
 12.50% Disodium cocoamphodiacetate (Miranol C2M Conc., Rhodia)
 0.75% PCA glyceryl oleate (Amifat P-30, Ajinomoto)
 0.20% PCA ethyl cocoyl arginate (CAE, Ajinomoto)
  Citric acid

33
Conditioning Shampoo

SUPPLIER: FloraTech 
 FORMULA: Conditioning Shampoo 
 DATE: December 1998 
This clear, conditioning shampoo adds
 NARRATIVE:
sheen to hair and improves combability. 
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
Heat water to 80°C. Add polyquaternium-
10 slowly with rapid propeller agitation.
Stir for 20 min. Add tetrasodium EDTA.
Stir for 5 min. Add B in order listed to A.
 PROCEDURE: Keep the temperature at 75-80°C. Mix until
uniform. Add C in order listed to AB and
mix until uniform. Cool to 40-45°C. Add D
and mix until uniform. Cool to room
temperature. 
PHASE (A)
 0.40% Polyquaternium-10 (Ucare Polymer LR 400
 0.08% Tetrasodium EDTA (Versene 220 Crystals, Dow Chemical)
  Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (B)
 4.50% Lauramide DEA (Standamid LD, Cognis Corp)
 4.00% Cocamidopropyl betaine (Lexaine C, Inolex)
 24.00% Sodium laureth sulfate (Standapol ES-2, Cognis Corp)
 10.00% Sodium lauryl sulfate (Sulfochem SLS, Chemron)
PHASE (C)
 4.00% PEG-10 sunflower glycerides (Florasun PEG-10, FloraTech)
 1.50% Sodium chloride, 20% soln
 0.50% Polyquaternium-7 (Merquat 550, Nalco)
 0.36% Citric acid, 20% soln, pH 5.5
  Phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) butylparaben (and)
ethylparaben (and) propylparaben (Phenonip, Clariant/Nipa)
PHASE (D)
  Fragrance (parfum)

Conditioning Shower Gel

34
SUPPLIER: Stepan 
Conditioning Shower Gel 
 FORMULA:

 DATE: July 1993 

Shower gel with excellent foam and luxurious
 NARRATIVE:
afterfeel. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Cleansing 
Add B to A; heat to 165-170°F. Add C; mix for 30
 PROCEDURE: min. Cool to 100°F. Add D; adjust pH to 5.0-6.2,
adjust viscosity if necessary. 

PHASE (A)
  Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (B)
 35.00% Sodium lauryl sulfate (Stepanol WA-Extra, Stepan)
 26.00% Sodium laureth sulfate (Steol CS-130, Stepan)
 2.00% Lauramide DEA (Ninol 30-LL, Stepan)
 0.20% Tetrasodium EDTA (Versene 100, Dow Chemical)
PHASE (C)
 5.00% Di-hydrogenated tallow phthalic acid amide
(Stepan TAB-2, Stepan)
 2.50% Dimethicone (Silicone DC-200, Dow Chemical)
PHASE (D)
 8.00% Cocamidopropyl betaine (Amphosol CG, Stepan)
  DMDM hydantoin (Glydant, Lonza)

Cream Foundation

SUPPLIER: Dow Corning 

35
 FORMULA: Cream Foundation 
 DATE: April 1994 
Cyclomethicone gives easy spreading and
uniform coverage; the acrylates copolymer
 NARRATIVE:
helps keep a matte finish by absorbing skin
oils. 
 CATEGORY: Makeup 
Mix and heat A to 75°C (167°F). Mix and heat
B to 72°C (161°F). Micronize C; add to B.
Add BC to A with agitation; use cage mixer
 PROCEDURE:
or side-sweep mixer to avoid aeration. Cool
to 50°C (122°F); add D. Add E; stir. Fill into
containers at 38°C (100°F). 

PHASE (A)
 53.40% Water (aqua)
 5.00% Propylene glycol
 5.00% PEG-8 (Polyglycol E-400, Dow Chemical)
PHASE (B)
 2.20% Decyl oleate (Ceraphy 140A, ISP)
 1.50% Sorbitan stearate
 0.90% Glyceryl monostearate SE (Cerasynt Q, ISP)
 0.50% Stearyl alcohol
PHASE (C)
 7.00% Kaolin
 6.00% Titanium dioxide
 6.00% Titanium dioxide
 2.00% Iron oxide
 1.50% Acrylates copolymer (Polytrap Q5-6603, Dow Chemical)
PHASE (D)
 15.00% Cyclomethicone (DC 344 Fluid, Dow
Chemical)
PHASE (E)
  Preservatives

Exfoliation Lotion

SUPPLIER: Active Organics 

 FORMULA: Exfoliation Lotion 
 DATE: April 1995 
 NARRATIVE: Molasses extract with 5.25% lactic acid provides effective
exfoliation; a group of xanthines found in green tea

36
 minimizes irritation. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Weigh A into main stainless steel jacketed kettle with
mixer. Heat to 70°C. In a separate kettle, weigh B and heat
to 70°C. Add B to A slowly with agitation. Keep mixing
 PROCEDURE:
until product is uniform. Cool to 50°C and add C. Mix well
and continue to cool product to 30 degrees C. Add D, one
at a time, while mixing. 
PHASE (A)
 39.71% Water (aqua)
 2.00% Butylene glycol
 15.00% Carbomer 940, 2% solution
 0.15% Methylparaben
 0.10% Allantoin
 0.04% Propylparaben
PHASE (B)
 4.00% Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oil
 3.00% PEG-40 stearate
 3.00% Glyceryl stearate
 1.50% Octyl palmitate
 1.50% Isopropyl myristate
 1.00% Cetyl alcohol
 0.50% Stearyl alcohol
PHASE (C)
 3.00% Water (aqua)
 1.10% Triethanolamine
PHASE (D)
 4.00% Thea sinensis extract (Actiphyte Japanese Green Tea Concentrate, Active
Organics)
 4.00% Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans (and) sodium hyaluronate (Actiglide J, Active
Organics)
 15.00% Molasses extract (Actilac M, Active Organics)
 0.50% Tocpheryl acetate
 0.50% Dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid, 350 cs, Dow Chemical)
 0.20% Tocopherol (Covipherol T-75, Cognis Corp)
 0.20% Diazolidinyl urea (Germall II, ISP)

Extra-Softening Shampoo
SUPPLIER: Biosil 
 FORMULA: Extra-Softening Shampoo 
 DATE: June 1998 
A rich herb-infused shampoo specially designed
for chemically treated hair. The conditioning
 NARRATIVE: silicone surfactants impart shine and
managebility. The extracts give extra
moisturization to the hair. 
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 

37
 Combine A and heat to 70°C. Begin to cool to
 PROCEDURE: 45°C. Mix until uniform. Add B at 45°C. Mix
well. Add C; mix well. Continue to cool to 35°C. 
PHASE (A)
 7.00% Cocamidopropyl betaine (Velvetex BA-35, Cognis
Corp)
 5.00% Cetyl triethylmonium (and) dimethicone copolyol
phthalate (Biosil Basics Cetylsil, Biosil)
 49.70% Water (aqua), deionized
 30.00% Sodium laureth sulfate (Standapol ES-2, Cognis
Corp)
 2.50% Cocamido DEA (Standamol KD, Cognis Corp)
 2.00% Dimethicone copolyol (Biosil Basics Biowax 754,
Biosil)
 1.50% Silicone quaternium-13 (Biosil Basics SPQ,
Biosil)
PHASE (B)
 0.30% Quaternium-15 (Dowicil 200, Dow Chemical)
PHASE (C)
 0.50% Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) extract , Biosil)
 0.50% Sage (Salvia officinalis) extract , Biosil)
 0.50% Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) extract , Biosil)
 0.50% Cinchona extract (Red Bark Extract, Biosil)

Face Bronzer with Sunscreen

SUPPLIER: GE Company 
 FORMULA: Face Bronzer with Sunscreen 
 DATE: February 1999 
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone
crosspolymer elastomer dispersion is a 5.5% silicone
elastomer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane, which provides
 NARRATIVE: good esthetics, creating a smooth, silky luxurious feel. The
cyclopentasiloxane acts as an emollient and gives a dry,
nongreasy feel. The blend is a film former and provides a
more durable product. 
 CATEGORY: Makeup 
 PROCEDURE: In A, predissolve carbomer in warm water. Heat to 75°C

38
 and add other A ingredients. Heat B to 75°C until all
ingredients are melted with moderate agitation. Slowly add
B to A with good mixing. Cool with continued mixing to
60°C and add C. Continue mixing at 55°C and add D. Mix
and cool to 25°C and mill throuhg a colloid mill at 0.005
setting. 

PHASE (A)
 52.90% Water (aqua), deionized
 5.00% Glycerin
 0.50% Carbomer (Carbopol 980, Noveon)
 0.40% Sodium hydroxide, 40%
 0.40% DMDM hydantoin
 0.10% Dehydroacetic acid
PHASE (B)
 7.50% Mineral oil (paraffinum liquidum)
 7.00% Octyl methoxycinnamate
 5.00% Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (Arlacel
165, ICI)
 4.00% Benzophenone-3
 3.90% Isopropyl isostearate
 2.20% Stearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20 (Promulgen G
 0.60% Cetyl alcohol
 0.50% Myristyl lactate
PHASE (C)
 5.00% Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides
(Timica Gold Sparkle, Engelhard)
PHASE (D)
 5.00% Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone
crosspolymer (SFE839, GE Company)

Facial Cleansing Lotion

SUPPLIER: Lonza 
 FORMULA: Facial Cleansing Lotion 
 DATE: December 1997 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Skin Cleansing 
Fully hydrate A in B with propeller agitation.
Add C and heat this phase to 75°C. Separately
combine D and heat to 75°C. Next add the oil
phase to the waterphase with propeller
 PROCEDURE:
agitation. Neutralize the batch with E and then
slowly cool to 45°C. Add F and continue mixing
anc cooling to 25 degrees C. Viscosity =
34,000cps. 

39
PHASE (A)
 0.40% Carbomer 934
PHASE (B)
 84.10% Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (C)
 2.50% Polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate (Polyaldo 10-2-P, Lonza)
 2.00% Glycerin (Glycon G-300, Lonza)
 1.00% Disodium cocoamphodipropionate (Amphoterge K-2, Lonza)
PHASE (D)
 3.00% Cetyl alcohol
 3.00% Myristyl propionate (Lonzest 143-S, Lonza)
 3.00% Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Aldo MCT, Lonza)
PHASE (E)
 0.90% Triethanolamine, 99%
PHASE (F)
 0.10% DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropnyl butylcarbamate (Glydant Plus,
Lonza)

Eye Liner

FORMULA: Eye Liner 

 DATE: April 1994 
Designed to be the perfect consistency and
durable under extreme temperature
 NARRATIVE: conditions, eye liner is smooth going on,
has a good pay-off, lasts and does not rub
off. 
 CATEGORY: Makeup 
Blend A in steel beaker. Add B; melt until
dispersed. Add C, one at a time, making
 PROCEDURE: sure everything is melted. Pour into molds.
Note: Slight changes in oils and waxes
would give a softer eye liner. 

PHASE (A)
 6.20% Talc , US Cosmetics)

40
  4.00% Zinc oxide (Z-Cote, BASF)
 4.00% Zinc oxide (Z-Cote, BASF)
 24.50% Pigments
 10.00% TiO2
PHASE (B)
 7.00% PG-3 beeswax (Cerabellina, Koster Keunen)
 7.00% C18-38 alkyl hydroxystearyl stearate (Hydroxy
polyester, Koster Keunen)
 4.00% Deodorized orange wax , Koster Keunen)
PHASE (C)
 5.00% Wheat (Triticum vulgare) germ oil , TRI-K)
 4.00% Hydrogenated castor oil
 4.00% Coconut (Cocos nucifera) oil
 3.00% Hydrogenated soybean oil
 10.00% Japan wax , Koster Keunen)
 10.00% Hexanediol behenyl beeswax , Koster Keunen)
 10.00% Carnauba (Copernicia cerifera) wax , Koster
Keunen)
 0.50% Isopropylparaben (and) isobutylparaben (and)
butylparaben (Liquapar, Rohm and Haas)
 0.50% BHT , Clariant/Nipa)
 0.10% Vitamin E , BASF)
 0.10% Vitamin A palmitate , BASF)
 0.10% Carnauba (Copernicia cerifera) wax , Koster
Keunen)
Face Powder with Controlled-Release Jojoba
Oil

SUPPLIER: A&E Connock 

 FORMULA: Face Powder with Controlled-Release Jojoba Oil 
 DATE: September 1995 
Microencapsulated jojoba oil provides emolliency
and protection to the face for an extended period.
 NARRATIVE: The silicone ester, which acts as a pigment binder
and dispersing aid, also ensures a smooth film on
application. 
 CATEGORY: Makeup 
Mix A in a blender. Mix B; spray in A. Blend,
then micronize. Return to the mixer and add C.
 PROCEDURE: Mix until dispersed; press. Note: The pigments
and titanium dioxide quantities may be varied to
suit; the balance to 100% is made using talc. 

PHASE (A)
 62.90% Talc

41
  6.00% Zinc stearate
 5.00% Titanium dioxide, CI 77891
 5.00% Silk powder , A&E Connock)
 2.00% Boron nitride , A&E Connock)
 10.00% Colorants , A&E Connock)
 1.00% Magnesium carbonate
 0.10% Propylparaben
PHASE (B)
 3.00% Cetearyl octanoate (and) isopropyl myristate
(and) stearyl octanoate , A&E Connock)
 2.00% Diisostearyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate
(AEC DTSS Silicone Ester, A&E Connock)
PHASE (C)
 3.00% Jojoba (Buxus chinensis) oil, microencapsulated ,
A&E Connock)

Frequent-Use Shampoo

SUPPLIER: Cognis 
 FORMULA: Frequent-Use Shampoo 
 DATE: April 1996 
 NARRATIVE: Mild shampoo with good foaming properties. 
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
Sprinkle B in A. Hydrate; add C in order shown
 PROCEDURE: with mixing. Adjust pH to 6.2-6.8 with 50% citric
acid. Stir until homogeneous. Fill. 

PHASE (A)
  Water (aqua)
PHASE (B)
 0.25% Polyquaternium-10 (Ucare Polymer LR-400
PHASE (C)
 4.00% Sodium lauraminopropionic acid (Deriphat 160-
C, Cognis Corp)
 3.50% Disodium cocoamphodiacetate (Velvetex CDC,
Cognis Corp)
 22.00% Lauryl glucoside (and) sodium laureth sulfate

42
 (Plantaren PS 200, Cognis Corp)
 1.50% Cocamide DEA (Standamid SD, Cognis Corp)
 1.00% Cocamidopropylamine oxide (Standamox
CAW, Cognis Corp)
 0.25% (Viscosifier PB 8414
  Fragrance (parfum)
  Preservatives
  Colorants

Hair Shampoo
SUPPLIER: Inolex 
 FORMULA: Hair Shampoo 
 DATE: June 1998 
Resulting product is a rich, clear shampoo which
cleans; provides conditioning and improved
 NARRATIVE: combability with behenamidopropyl PG dimonium
chloride and quaternized chitosan; and styles with
PVP/VA copolymer. 
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
Combine A heating to 45-80°C. Use a propeller mixer
for agitation. Combine B heating to 80-85°C. Agitate
slowly with a propeller mixer. When A and B are
homogeneous, slowly add B to A. Mix with rapid
 PROCEDURE:
agitation for 5 min, then reduce mixing speed and
begin cooling. At 55-60 degrees C, add C to AB.
When batch is homogeneous and at 35-45 degrees C,
adjust for water loss. 

PHASE (A)
 3.00% Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen (Maypon
C, Inolex)
 3.00% Cocamido DEA (Standamide KD, Cognis Corp)
 15.00% Sodium lauryl sulfate (Standapol WAQ, Cognis Corp)
 10.00% Cocamidopropyl betaine (Lexaine C, Inolex)
 10.00% TEA-lauryl sulfate (Standapol T, Cognis Corp)
PHASE (B)
 42.10% Water (aqua), deionized

43
  3.00% Propylene glycol, USP
 0.20% Methylparaben (Lexgard M, Inolex)
 0.10% Tetrasodium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4
 0.10% Benzophenone-4 (Univol MS-40, BASF)
 0.10% Propylparaben (Lexgard P, Inolex)
PHASE (C)
 7.00% Beheamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride (Lexquat AMG-BEO,
Inolex)
 0.20% Polyquaternium-29 (Kytamer KC
PHASE (D)
 6.00% PVP-VA copolymer (Luviskol VA73-W, BASF)
PHASE (E)
 0.20% Fragrance (parfum)
  Colorants
PHASE (F)
  Citric acid
Mild Frequent-Use Shampoo with Native
American Botanicals

SUPPLIER: Arch Pers Care 

Mild Frequent-Use Shampoo with Native
 FORMULA:
American Botanicals 
 DATE: January 1996 
Leaves hair easy to manage with extra
body and fullness without
overconditioning or buildup. Botanicals
 NARRATIVE: reduce irritation potential for a mild, high-
foaming shampoo using lauryl sulfates
without ether sulfates, allowing dioxin-free
systems. 
 CATEGORY: Hair Cleansing 
Heat A to 75°C; dissolve B. Remove from
heat. Add C. Mix until melted and
 PROCEDURE:
dispersed; add D. Cool to 35°C; add E.
Adjust pH to 5.5-6.0 with suitable material. 
PHASE (A)
 49.20% Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (B)
 0.20% Methylparaben
 0.20% Polyquaternium-4 (Celquat L-200, National Starch)
PHASE (C)
 2.00% Cocamide DEA (Standamid KD, Cognis Corp)
 0.50% Glycol stearate
PHASE (D)
 4.50% Cocamidopropyl betaine (Velvetex BA-35, Cognis

44
 Corp)
 30.00% Ammonium lauryl sulfate (Standapol A, Cognis
Corp)
 3.00% Hydroxypropyltrimonium gelatin (Quat-Coll IP-
10/30, Arch Pers Care)
 0.20% Polyaminoproyl biguanide (and) chloroxylenol
(Mikrokill 2, Cognis Corp)
PHASE (E)
 5.00% Yucca glauca extract (NAB Yucca Glauca, Arch
Pers Care)
 5.00% Impatiens balsamifera extract (NAB Jewelweed,
Arch Pers Care)
 0.20% Fragrance (parfum)

Moisturizing Lotion with Aloe Vera

SUPPLIER: Stepan 
 FORMULA: Moisturizing Lotion with Aloe Vera 
 DATE: February 1998 
 NARRATIVE:  
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Add B to B while mixing until completely
dissolved. Adjust pH to 7.5 (10% NaOH) then
add C and mix while heating to 80°C. Mix D;
heat to 80-82°C. Add D to ABC under
increased agitation (600 rpm in turbine
 PROCEDURE:
agitator). Mix at 80°C for 20-25 min. Start
cooling to room temperature with
continuous mxing at 400 rpm. Below 45°C,
add E. Adjust pH with F if necessary. Cool to
ambient temperature (30°C) with mixing. 

PHASE (A)
 1.00% Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) 5x , Terry Labs)
PHASE (B)
  Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (C)
 2.00% Sodium stearyl amido benzoic acid (Stepan-Mild
RM1, Stepan)
PHASE (D)
 10.00% Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Neobee M-5
Cosmetic, Stepan)
 1.50% Behenyl alcohol
 1.00% Glyceryl monostearate, pure (Kessco GMS
Pure, Stepan)

45
   Mineral oil (paraffinum liquidum)
PHASE (E)
 1.00% Propylene glycol (and) diazolidinyl urea (and)
methylparaben (and) propylparaben (Germaben
II, ISP)
PHASE (F)
  Citric acid, 50%

Oil-Free Lotion

SUPPLIER: Centerchem 
 FORMULA: Oil-Free Lotion 
 DATE: January 1996 
Contains no animal, vegetable or mineral
oils. Increases skin firmness, elasticity and
 NARRATIVE:
cell turnover. Exceptional lubricity and slip
with smooth and elegant feel. 
 CATEGORY: Skin Care/Treatment 
Combine A; heat to 80°C. In a separate
vessel, combine B and heat to 80°C. Add C
 PROCEDURE:
to B. Add A. At 55°C, add D. At 35°C, add E.
Mix until the batch reaches 25°C. 
PHASE (A)
 5.00% Squalane, vegetal (Fitoderm, Cognis Iberia)
 1.25% Stearic acid
 1.25% Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate
 1.25% Cyclomethicone (DC 345 Fluid, Dow Chemical)
 1.25% Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20
 0.50% PEG-100 stearate
PHASE (B)
 0.20% Carbomer 980 (Carbopol 980, Noveon)
  Water (aqua), deionized
PHASE (C)
 3.00% Glycerin
PHASE (D)
 0.20% Triethanolamine, 99%
PHASE (E)
 3.00% Water (aqua) (and) butylene glycol (and) algae
extract (APT

46
 3.00% Locust bean (Ceratonia siliqua) gum
(Phytaluronate, Centerchem)
  Preservatives

47