Investigating the tween girls fashion market

in Melbourne: Opportunities for

expansion and adaptation

A thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirements

for the degree of Master of Arts

Yukako Tomari

School of Architecture and Design

Design and Context Portfolio
RMIT University
August 2008

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 Declaration

I certify that except where due acknowledgement has been made, the work is that of
the author alone; the work has not been submitted previously, in whole or in part, to
qualify for any other academic award; the content of the thesis is the result of work
which has been carried out since the official commencement date of the approved
research program; and, any editorial work, paid or unpaid, carried out by a third party
is acknowledged.

Yukako Tomari

14/01/2009

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 Acknowledgements

There are many people who have generously given of their time, knowledge and
expertise for this research. This research could not have been written without my
supervisor, Mr. Mick Peel, who not only served as my supervisor but also encouraged
and challenged me throughout my research. He and the other faculty members, my
second supervisor, Ms Denise Sprynskyj, Ms Robyn Healy and Mr. Peter Allan,
patiently guided me through the dissertation process, never accepting less than my
best efforts. I thank them all.

I would like to make special note of members at the Francis Bourke Centre. I would
also like to thank staff at the Study and Learning Centre at RMIT for assisting me in
various ways during the research.

Thank you too, to my interviewees whose knowledge, expertise and insight have
made this research possible.

I would also like to thank Kate Pears, Lisa Vong and Maryanne Barclay who assisted
me and offered many helpful editorial suggestions in writing the thesis.

Sincere thanks to Anna Barclay, Barry Gorman, Noriko Kusano, Kozumi Miya, all my
other friends and my family, who have been patient, understanding, encouraging and
supporting.

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Table of the contents

In Summary......................................................................................................1
1. Introduction..............................................................................................2
1.2. Significance of the research.........................................................2
1.3. Background to the research.........................................................4
1.4. Research Objectives .....................................................................7
1.5. Research Methodology .................................................................9
1.5.2. Literature review ........................................................................9
1.5.3. Interview with representatives from Australian fashion
industry .................................................................................................10
1.5.4. Survey.......................................................................................10
1.5.5. Business seminars ..................................................................11
1.5.6. Fieldwork and review of markets ...........................................11
1.6. Research parameters ..................................................................11
1.6.1. Limitations................................................................................11
1.6.2. Definitions ................................................................................12
PART A: Literature review and case study .................................................14
2. Literature review ....................................................................................14
2.1. Introduction ......................................................................................14
2.2. Tween concept ............................................................................15
2.3. Tween consumption....................................................................16
2.4. Tween girls’ culture – difference between countries regarding
fashion .....................................................................................................19
2.5. Key influences driving tween girls fashion consumption .......21
2.5.1. Media.........................................................................................21
2.5.2. Peer pressure...........................................................................23
2.6. Conclusion...................................................................................24
3. Fashion business in the tween girls demographic: international
experience ..................................................................................................25
3.1. Introduction .................................................................................25
3.2. An exploration of the key influences in the Japanese tween
girls fashion market ................................................................................25
3.2.1. Background..............................................................................25
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 3.2.2. Economic influences ...............................................................26
3.2.3. Society and cultural influences ..............................................27
3.3. Case study: NARUMIYA INTERNATIONAL Co.Ltd. ..................28
3.3.1. Setting the scene .....................................................................28
3.3.2. Company structure ..................................................................30
3.3.3. Product .....................................................................................32
3.3.4. Promotion.................................................................................40
3.3.5. Merchandising .........................................................................43
3.4. Conclusion...................................................................................44
PART B: Research design, analysis and discussion .................................45
4. Research design ....................................................................................45
4.1. Introduction to data analysis......................................................45
4.2. Sample groups ............................................................................46
4.3. Developing the survey - for parents ..........................................47
4.4. Developing the interview-for business......................................48
4.5. Research design overview .........................................................49
5. Research Findings: Exploring the Australian tween girls fashion
market .........................................................................................................51
5.1. Introduction .................................................................................51
5.2. Data Analysis: Consumer perceptions......................................51
5.2.1. How and where tweens shop..................................................51
5.2.2. How much tweens spend ........................................................54
5.2.3. Their interest in fashion ..........................................................59
5.2.4. Parents’ view............................................................................63
5.3. Interviews : Business perceptions ............................................65
5.3.1. Background..............................................................................65
5.3.2. Position and branding in the current market ........................67
5.3.3. Style and design : Influences .................................................69
5.3.4. Relationship between brand and customer...........................70
5.3.5. Opportunities and prospects for market expansion.............71
6. Conclusion .............................................................................................73
6.1. Introduction .................................................................................73
6.2. Discussion: Findings ..................................................................73
6.3. Suggestions and recommendations..........................................76
6.4. View to future research...............................................................77
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7. Appendices ............................................................................................79
8. Bibliography...........................................................................................90

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In Summary

In the last decade, children who are in the age range between childhood and
adolescence, the so called ‘tweens’, have captured the attention and a great deal of
interest of marketers and many commercial stakeholders in different fields of business
due to their significant spending power and specific culture. Tweens are now much
more strongly targeted by marketers and businesses than were the previous
generation; girls in particularly are targeted more than boys.

Within a fashion context, tween girls are expanding their influence and their consumer
power in the market. Following the global acknowledgement of tweens, in Australia,
and in Melbourne in particular, tween fashion retailers have been emerging and
evolving recently in response to the market’s interest and demand for tween fashion.
The tween girls’ fashion consumption has a viability and is seen a major emergent
marketing phenomenon one that is predicted to expand.

There is currently a debate in Australia whether tween girls dress inappropriately as

adults. This may be a result of the absence of a particular tween girls fashion sector in
fashion industry in Melbourne. Further development will be significant in providing
age-appropriate clothing range for the market. In order to achieve this, it is necessary
to investigate the market segment.

A case study of a Japanese company is used to gain further understanding of current

and future developments within the market. The case study will provide some
background information to the situation being presented and assist in the analysis of
possible suggestions and recommendations.

The tween girls fashion industry incorporates many different factors. There is a
specific focus on the opportunities for expansion and adaptation in the market
segment. This research investigates the tween girls’ fashion segment in Australia to
identify and understand its relationship with respect to fashion marketing and
consumption. It also identifies the gaps or opportunities in the market and proposes
business opportunities to address these gaps.

This research demonstrates the possibility for the market development of tween girls
in Melbourne.