Development An Effective Quick Fabric Relaxation M
Development An Effective Quick Fabric Relaxation M
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Abstract — Fabric relaxation is an essential fabric absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and
operation in the process of garment manufacturing regains its original nature and it is called fabric
and without it, is not possible to obtain the relaxation. In other words, fibres and yarns which
dimensional stability of the final products. Fabric are under strain in fabric formation followed by
relaxation is characterized by the shrinkage of the finishing processes, comes into natural condition
fabric and the shrinkage percentage is high for where the internal forces are in equilibrium state.
knitted fabrics especially containing elastane. There The ultimate relaxed state is the "fully relaxed" state,
are different methods available for fabric relaxation in which the loops are in an equilibrium state for
such as compressive relaxation, heat set relaxation knitted fabrics and in without strain for woven
and sponging relaxation. However, they are fabrics. Shrinkage is induced by the relaxation of
prohibitively in use due to their high cost or the strains present in a fabric when the fabric becomes
excessively high time taken for the process. Hence into relaxed form which is free from strain in the
the bale relaxation is popular in used for effective fabric. Relaxed dimensions are defined as the state at
fabric relaxation but the conditioning time in bale which a fabric is fully relaxed and will not shrink
relaxation is varied from fabric to fabric and buyer’s further as a result of washing and tumble drying.
recommendation. Time taken for fabric relaxation is Relaxed dimensions are also referred to as the
a key problem and as a solution high speed fabric reference state [13].
relaxation machines were developed but they have
serious limitations as it cannot be effectively used 1.1 Current practices in the industry
for fabrics with higher shrinkage levels and If the dimension is become stabilized before
especially in knitted fabrics with elastane content. cutting, the chance of remaining strain in garments is
minimum unless there is no mechanical forces apply
Hence a new fabric relaxation machine was on fabric panels in the process of sewing to yield
designed and a prototype of it was developed. It some level of tension. Fabric relaxation before
composed of fabric unwinding unit, fabric rewinding cutting panels of a garment is a key to achieve the
unit without creating additional strain in the fabric, dimensional stability of produced garments. So
and fabric relaxation with sinusoidal vibration before cutting, fabrics must be converted in to fully
followed by the air floatation unit. The effectiveness relax stable state by undergoing it through any
of the prototype of the fabric relaxation machine was suitable fabric relaxation method. Fabric relaxation
validated with experiments carried out with two prior to cutting is generally performed by keeping
fabric types of knitted fabrics containing different the fabric under standard atmospheric condition in
elastane content and gsm values. It was compared opened and spread under tensionless arrangement
with the popular C-Tex machine used in the industry termed as conditioning over a predetermined time
and showed that a better relaxation levels could be period. This time is varied from fabric to fabric as
achieved with the developed prototype. Hence the well as buyer’s recommendation subjected to a
developed machine has strong industrial minimum relaxation time period of twelve hours and
implications. However, the speed of operation is more effective period of twenty four hours. The
essentially improved and the consumption of air in fabric is unwounded from the roles and lays the
the air floatation unit needs to be optimized in fabric in a zig-zag way to obtain tension free fabric.
commercialization of the product. This method is called bale fabric relaxation. As this
method is rather time consuming, certain fabric
Keywords — Fabric relaxation, knitted fabric, air relaxation machines are used, but not effective for
floatation zone, vibration fabrics with higher shrinkage. Many advanced
relaxation regimes are also in practice specifically
I. INTRODUCTION based on the type of the fabric. The compressive
Fabrics are subjected to heat in the processes of relaxation for woven cotton, tabular knit cotton,
removing moisture in dyeing and finishing. When linen, rayon etc., heat set relaxation is for
the fabrics come into normal condition such as thermoplastic fibres such as nylon, polyester, acrylic
ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, the etc, resin treated relaxation is for rayon as well as for
cotton and sponging relaxation is for woolen and proceed with the trial relaxation method before bulk
many worsted fabrics. Sponging relaxation can be production.
applied for a large range of fabrics in which wetting
the fabric with water or steam and allowing the 1.2 Knitted fabric relaxation methods
material to dry slowly in relaxed tensionless state. In the plethora of literature on fabric relaxation,
This method is much slower than conditioning knitted fabrics especially containing elastane were
fabrics over 24 hours for relaxation which is much mainly focused as its relaxation was crucial in
popular in use, but much effective in reaching the dimensional stability on the garment manufactured.
fully relaxed stage. All these four specific methods Munden [7] defined two fabric relaxation methods
described above are either too slow in process or namely dry and wet processes. In the dry relaxation
prohibitively expensive to produce cost effective knitted fabrics were exposed to air for certain period
garment to meet the competitive edge in the market. while in the wet relaxation knitted fabrics were
Knitted fabrics are much more susceptible for immersed in warm water. Knapton et.al. [1] applied
shrinkage due to relaxation as compared to woven mechanical (laundering and tumble drying cycles)
fabrics due to its natural construction with loops. and chemical (fabric mercerisation without tension)
Woven fabrics are much stable than knitted fabrics relaxation treatments to knitted fabrics. It was shown
due to the perpendicularly interlaced yarn structure that either treatment contributes to considerable
and woven fabrics cannot attain 10%-15% level of dimensional stability leading to fully relaxed
extensibility and recovery from extension. For condition of the fabric.
certain types of knitted fabrics, relaxation in
conditioned environment under tension free 1.3 Shrinkage and its effects
condition may not be effective enough to achieve Fabric relaxation is characterized by a change in
dimensional stability and hence relaxation is done in the dimensions of a fabric and it is technically
two stages namely taking out from knitting and referred to as shrinkage. Shrinkage can be further
before laying the fabrics for cutting. Before sending divided in to two categories as construction
fabrics to the cutting section, the fabric samples shrinkage and processing shrinkage. Construction
obtained from the rolls are subjected to test for shrinkage is defined as the amount of dimensional
dimensional stability and according to the test results change in a fabric based solely on the construction
the method of relaxation are determined. Residual variables used to create the fabric. It is measured
shrinkage test, heat shrinkage test and steam after fabrication but before subsequent processes.
shrinkage test are the main tests which are used in Dyeing and finishing stages create processing
the industry to determine the relaxation procedure shrinkage after fabric formation. The dimensional
before bulk fabric cutting. If the shrinkage test result change may be in a positive (growth) or negative
is less than 2 percent no relation is done. If the level (shrinkage) in lengthwise, widthwise, and thickness.
of shrinkage in the test results lies between 2 percent Those shrinkage parameters are related in changing
and 4 percent, machine relaxation is recommended fabric dimensions, seam puckering, torquing, and
whereas for fabrics with shrinkage more than 4 overall garment fit. Shrinkage can be further defined
percent, bale relaxation is used. as a dimensional change in a fabric or garment
In machine relaxation with C-tex machine, fabric is caused by an application of a force, energy, or a
unwound from its roll using positive feeding change in environment that either allows the goods
technique to avoid creating additional tension in to relax or forces the fabric to move in a given
unwinding process and feeding at the successive direction. Strohle et.al. [10]. introduced a new
stage is slightly make slower at initial stage to create method for the relaxation of knitwear containing
a tension free sag. Subsequently fabric is fed over an elastane. The grey fabric is saturated in an
air floatation zone for fast relaxation of the fabric. impregnating unit with soda, suitable wetting agents
Though the output of the machine is high as 60m/s, and emulsifiers and placed on a roller bed.
fabric could not be relaxed adequately at that speed. Knitted fabrics tend to change dimensions in
So this method could not be applied for fabrics from width and length after being taken off the machine,
which large panels are cut or in case of sportswear even without yarn shrinkage, indicating a change of
manufacturing. Hence standard relaxation grid is loop shape rather than of loop length. During
formed after doing experiments on relaxation with knitting, the loop structure is subjected to a tension
different types of fabrics and also on the past data of approximately 15-25 grams per needle from the
captured by the research and development center. sources in case of the takedown mechanism and also
Test cutting and approval procedure is adopted for in fabric inspection machines, the width stretched.
the fabrics which are not in standard relaxation grid. Theoretically knitted loops move towards a three-
In this method, small amount of fabric is cut after dimensional configuration of minimum energy as
trial relaxation method, sewed in sample room and forces applied to fabric during production process
compared with the approved sample. Sewing and all those are allowed to be dissipated [2].
allowance and other measurements are checked and
if everything is ok then the approval is given to
1.4 Key developments of fabric relaxation fabrics with higher shrinkage levels precisely more
machines than 4 percent.
1.4.1. Benninger's all in one plant
Fig. 1: Benninger's all in one plant for relaxation Fig. 3 - C-Tex fabric relaxation machine [11]
of knitwear [10]
Fig. 1 shows the Benninger's all in one plant [10] 1.5 Modeling of fabric properties
for relaxation of knitwear and the concept behind A major advance in this field occurred when
this machine is to process steps of impregnation, Doyle Munden [7] reported that for an extremely
dwelling and washing out in a very small space. wide range of relaxed plain-knit fabrics, the fabric
After unwinding the fabric from the roll, it is sent dimensions (width and length) are completely
through an inspection zone, then it is treated with determined by the knitted loop length and it is
steam of 4 - 6 Kg/cm2pressure for relaxation. characterized by the following equations.
However the main objective of this machine is not
the relaxation of fabrics and it cannot also be used ------------------------(1)
for different kinds of fabrics. -----------------------(2)
or -------(3)
1.4.2. Fabric relaxation machine of Voisin et.al -------------------(4)
--------------------------------(5)
Where cpi and wpi are courses and wales per unit
length respectively and l is length of the fabric. ,
, are fabric dimensional parameters and the
numerical values of them depend on the actual
configuration of the knitted loop. is described as
the loop shape factor which is the ratio of width of
the loop to the length of the loop. Hamid, Dariush
and Mohammad [9] shown that in the different
relaxation methods yield different values and
Fig. 2 - Prototype invented by Voisin [12] value increases when the fabric become fully relaxed
Another method for relaxation machine was with minimum energy. So these parameters can be
invented by Voisin et.al. [12] and humidity, heat and used to analyze the effectiveness of different
agitation of the fabric were used as means of relaxation methods.
relaxation. The fabric carried by a conveyer and is Semnani et.al. [3] proposed an ideal model for
dropped onto another surface at a particular speed of plain weft-knitted fabric using classical
about 120 meters/minute and approximately takes 45 mathematical curves based on the elastic rod model
minutes for a single fabric sample. [4]. As per this model, in a fully relaxed state, the
loop takes a specific shape with loop shape factor
1.4.3. C-Tex machine approximately 1.4. In the theoretical model, value of
Figure 3 shows C-Tex fabric relaxation machine the fabric constant dimensional parameter yielded as
and it is widely used in the industry. Lazy loop and = 25.98 which is higher than fully relaxed plain
air floatation zone are two fabric relaxation knitted fabrics as reported by previous researchers
techniques used in the machine. Initially fabric is who concluded that a more advanced relaxation
unwound into a photocell controlled lazy loop, method should be used in finishing treatment for
which allows returning the fabric to its natural state. weft-knitted fabrics to make the stitch shape closer
In that air floatation zone a pressurized supply air is to the ideal and to raise the practical -value.
applied perpendicularly to the fabric. Subsequently Knapton [1] has shown that dimensional stability in
fabric is rewound on to a roll with positive feed cotton plain-jersey fabrics can be attained by either
winding mechanism. However, it was noted that mechanical relaxation techniques or chemical
machine cannot be effectively used to relax the treatments, and that k-values are not entirely
independent of the fabric tightness. [5]. Ultrasonic
waves were employed as a new mechanical percentage, residual shrinkage level is also become
relaxation method to achieve maximum fabric dominant.
shrinkage [6]. By using longitudinal ultrasonic
relaxation process on cotton plain knitted fabrics, 2.1 Conceptual design
they could reach a -value equal to 24.87, which is Though the bale relaxation is an effective type of
higher than with other relaxation methods, but still relaxation, it takes a long time and causing for a
smaller than the theoretical Ks-value. Subsequently higher lead-time. Though it is non-value added
Sanjari et. Al. [5] ultrasonic waves with a frequency operation but it cannot be omitted with most of
of 35 kHz and intensity of 9 W/cm2 was used for knitted structures. As the industry is more
fabric relaxation, together with 10 minutes competitive and it is essential to make the
relaxation in water of 70 °C. Afterwards the samples production process more profitable by diminishing
were dried for 24 hours on a flat surface at room the time for non-value adding processes. For certain
conditions. This experiment could reach dimensional fabrics with the elastane content, bale relaxation is a
parameter value as high as 24.5 for plain knitted must, but keeping fabrics for such a long time to
fabric knitted with polyester cotton (65/35) of yarn relax is a waste of time in the industry. Hence the
count 30 Tex and it was much higher than other proposed fabric relaxation machine is developed to
relaxation methods tried out. reduce the relaxation time of knitted fabrics with
Though an ample number of modern, advanced elastane and especially in sportswear with large
and complex relaxation methods found in the panels to cut from the fabric where C-Tex machine
literature, bale relaxation method is still effectively is failed in effective fabric relaxation.
used in the garment industry due to its cost As the chemical relaxation does not support the
effectiveness and no need of technical investment. agile concept of relaxation and it was not under
However, this method needs an ample space while consideration as a means of fabric relaxation and
one day lead-time exists prior to bulk cutting. Fabric only mechanical means were in the solution space of
relaxation machines effectively addressed the short relaxing fabrics in the proposed machine.
comings of the bale relaxation method, but unable to After a careful analysis of the contributory impact
bring the fabrics to fully relaxed condition when the of different types of mechanical fabric relaxation
shrinkage level more than 4 percent. This creates a methods as per the data found on literature, it was
niche to develop a new fabric relaxation machine decided to instrument mechanical vibration pattern
which is capable of relaxing fabrics with higher and an air floatation zone as fabric relaxation
shrinkage levels and not taking much time for methods. Most appropriate type of mechanical
relaxation as does in bale relaxation. This article vibration pattern was identified as sinusoidal as it is
describes an attempt made to address this gap by smooth by its nature due to the fact that if the
developing a new fabric relaxation machine consists displacement is a sine wave, then the velocity and
of vibration unit and air floatation unit both supports acceleration will be scaled cosine and negative sine
fabric relaxation in synergy. Despite more scientific waves respectively. Further, it can be conveniently
measures such as loop shape factors, dimensional generated with a slider crank mechanism and its
parameters, irregularity indices (Radon and actual) frequency can be adjusted by varying the rotational
were defined, industry still relies on the test methods speed of the motor which drives the crankshaft.
such as residual shrinkage test, heat shrinkage test Further, adjustable piston rod lengths can be
and steam shrinkage test. Hence we evaluate the instrumental in varying the amplitude of vibration
effectiveness of the machine using the above tests. depending on the fabric type, while the pneumatic
pressure can be adjusted by means of a pressure
2. DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF FABRIC regulating valve to cater for different gsm values of
RELAXATION MACHINE the fabric. To facilitate further relaxation, an air
It is imperative to determine the fabric relaxation flotation zone was deployed after mechanical
methods to be used before designing the proposed vibration zone. Unwinding and rewinding of fabrics
fabric relaxation machine. The specifications such as could be done by placing the fabric roller on two
the speed of the machine, level of relaxation and rotating rollers of same speed synchronized with
shrinkage level of the input are critical and essential machine speed to avoid additional tension to the
in determining the fabric relaxations to be deployed. fabric.
Further, from the literature, it was well establish the 2.2 Design and develop a prototype
fact that the effective relaxation method is also
highly dependent on the type of fabric also. With
synthetic fabrics like 100% polyester, mostly
relaxation process is almost unnecessary as the
visible shrinkage level is negligible. However,
fabrics containing elastane, shrinkage scenario is
different as with the increment of the elastane Fig. 4: Inverted plan of the fabricrelaxation
machine prototype
3. METHODOLOGY
As 24 hour and 48 hour relaxation time is
currently in practiced for cotton/Spandex fabric, it
was decided to investigate the effect on relaxation
time. Hence 18 test samples were under testing from
cotton: 91.68% Spandex: 8.32% fabric with 180gsm
which was wound to fabric rolls at the weaving
laboratory. Due to limitation of the availability of
fabrics, one meter length samples were cut from
each fabric role and the level of shrinkage in
lengthwise and width wise were measured after
4
S 3.5
h 3
r 2.5
i 2
(
1.5 24hrs %
n %
)
k 1 48hrs %
a 0.5
g 0
e -0.5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
Sample number
1
S
h 0.5
r
i
(
n % 0 48hrs %
)
k 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 24hrs %
a
-0.5
g
e
-1
Sample number
Table 2: Residual shrinkage results of C-Tex machine for different fabrics types
Percentage Shrinkage
4
3
2 Vibration only
1 Air only
0 Vibration + air
0 5 10 15
Sample number
2.5
Percentage shrinkage
2
1.5
1 only air
0.5 only vibration
0
vibration+air
0 5 10 15
Sample number
Fig. 9: Fabric relaxation on machine-shrinkage level for fabric type 2 only
with vibration, air and combinational effect
1.4
Percentage Shrinkage
1.2
1
0.8
0.6
after 24 hours
0.4
0.2 after 48 hours
0
0 5 10 15
Sample number
Fig. 10: Shrinkage levels of bailing after machine relaxation for fabric type 1
1
Percentage Shrinkage
0.8
0.6
0.4 after 24 hours
0.2 after 48 hours
0
0 5 10 15
Sample number
Fig. 11: Shrinkage levels of bailing after machine relaxation for fabric type 2
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
Authors gratefully acknowledge H B H Buddika,
S M Kavirathna, H R P Weerasinghe in carrying out
the experiment trials and for the development of
prototype. Further, the acknowledgment is extended
to Mr. H M R P B Herath, Technical Officer of the
Weaving Laboratory and Mr. Suminda Senarathna,
Laboratory Attendant of the weaving lab for the
technical support given in the construction of the
prototype of the fabric relaxation machine.
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