Retro Magazine Issue Seven
Retro Magazine Issue Seven
Retro Magazine Issue Seven
Issue Seven
TOY CAMERAS
Plastic fantastic photography
FUNK
Visionary designer in focus
LOUIS VUITTON
editor's letter
This issue, Retro’s been out
schmoozing with the fashionistas
at London Fashion Week. Despite
wading through bubbly and nibbly-
nobs we were at the front of the
catwalk to catch the 20’s drop-
waists; 70’s denim and the ‘urban
cowboy’ look; and the heritage
brands revisiting their cultural roots
(page 42). We were also rather
chuffed by the amount of industry
bigwigs who said they were big
fans of Retro. Thanks for the kind
words. Other great features this
month include an interview with
Frisky and Mannish whose unique
blend of cabaret comedy has been
gathering followers at a rapid
pace, Retro included (page 30).
We clicked with photographer,
Kevin Meredith, whose book Toy
Cameras is a stunning collection
of images taken from 40 simple
cameras (page 50). We shine a light
on the trendsetting girls, chosen for
Louis Vuitton’s Ar t Deco–inspired
jewellery shoot, who’ll be cutting a
sar torial dash throughout the year
(page 36). We also get down with 30 36
frisky and mannish
Bruce Hudson
Editor
[email protected]
in this issue
26 Foot down as the Ferrari AT goes under the
hammer at RM Auctions 30 Getting playful with comedy burlesque duo
Frisky and Mannish
42 50 60
london fashion week
FUNK eyewear
toy cameras
five
1
Bill Gold: Poster Works
www.reelartpress.com
Gramophone Chair
£999
www.johnlewis.com
Upholstered in semi-aniline Vintage
Diego leather this sophisticated
chair is decorated with stitch
detailing and sits on a polished
aluminium base. Perfect for
the drawing room with your
Cognac (see above) and a cigar.
Vinyl Bookends
£20
www.urbanoutfitters.com
Tidy up your bookshelf with
these natty little 45s. As they’re
all originals, the record you get
sent might differ from the one
on the Urban Outfitters site.
What’s the betting we end up
with Cliff Richard when it arrives
at Retro HQ?
Retromodern Furniture
£POA
www.retromodern.com.au
Retromodern restores and recycles mid-century
furniture by breathing life into your designs. You can
choose from one of their unrestored pieces or send them
a photo of your own mid-century piece for a quote.
Each is restored and altered to your taste to bring out
the best possible appearance. A great idea delivered to
perfection judging by the magazine table above.
LA design studio “Spirit of 427”
£POA
www.la-ds.com
The Spirit of 427 collection, launched by Polish company
LA design studio, is inspired by the legendary American
spor ts car from the 60s. The collection uses the original
collector car par ts such as bumpers, fuel inlets, and lights,
as well as genuine leather from Bentley and Ferrari
factory stencils. Each sofa requires 400 to 500 hours of
manual work. The sofas have been critically acclaimed,
with Paul Siodmok, a former designer of the DBS at
Aston Mar tin, describing the range as “beautifully crafted
and exquisitely executed – furniture that is truly unique,
and a masterpiece of bespoke design and engineering”.
All items from the collection are tailor-made with all
(excluding the standing lamp) marked with a unique
plate containing the serial number and name of the first
owner.
Delivery times range from eight to 24 weeks depending
on the size of the commission.
Whitby Wallpaper
£45
www.minimoderns.co.uk
Mini Moderns designers Keith Stephenson and
Mark Hampshire both spent their childhood
holidays on the rugged Nor th Yorkshire
coastline. This collaboration captures the
pair’s memories of the vibrancy of Whitby’s
working fishing harbour. The designers
agreed using a linocut style “offered the
perfect way of expressing the movement
of the waves and the ruggedness of the
coastline we know so well.”
The wallpaper comes in 10m x 52cm rolls
printed with water-based inks on paper from
sustained forests.
F or racing and Ferrari enthusiasts the 0224 AT has all the desirable requirements
for collectors – a successful racing history, eligibility for the world’s most desirable
events (Mille Miglia included), well-known provenance (only 10 owners from new),
rarity, and a light, attractive body combined with Lampredi-designed V-12, capable
of stunning performance.
The most successful of the 1952 Panamericana Ferrari team cars, the AT finished in
third place at the La Carrera Panamericana Mexican road race, renowned as the
most dangerous road race in the world. Twenty-seven competitors were killed on
the newly completed Panamerican highway, and it’s doubtful anyone kept track of
spectator fatalities.
Despite this dark history, Mr Nicklin, who put the car up for auction, described the
0224 AT as being “as much fun as I’ve ever had in the car collecting world.”
And he would have had a huge smile on his face when the AT 0224 exceeded its
pre-sale estimate to sell for an extraordinary $4,290,000 at the Amelia Island auction
on 12th March.
$4,290,000
2
RM Auctions May 08
$10,894,400
1961 Ferrari 250 GT SWB Cal Spyder
Photos cour tesy of RM Auctions
1
RM Auctions May 09
$12,402,500
1957 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa
4
RM Auctions May 07
$9,281,250
1962 Ferrari 330 TRI/LM
Stand & De
eliver
Despite their act consistently being dubbed
‘indescribable’, musical comedy duo Frisky and
Mannish have been wowing critics the world over.
Danielle Colyer discovers why this pair, known
to their mate Kate Nash as Laura Corcoran and
Matthew Jones, are sure to keep climbing the
comedy tree.
“ Our sound guy has more
groupies than us. The
ladies love Barry ”
How would you describe your act in Who, or what, is your greatest influence?
three words? Our show is all about influences, and they
Po p m u s i c y - s e r i o co mi c - m a s h p a r o d i c - range ridiculously widely. But in terms of
s t e r e o p h o n i c - LO U D - v a u d e v i l l i a n - comedy, we’ve been influenced, if just by
sketchcabaret-throwbackcurrent-oldfangled- deep love, by Eddie Izzard, South Park, The
newfashioned-bapsbotty-infotainment, or Simpsons, Tenacious D, Julia Davis and The
thereabouts. League of Gentlemen.
Alexandra Richards, daughter of Rolling Stone Keith, is a DJ, ar tist and model.
She’s been featured in Vogue, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar and Jalouse, and recently
posed nude in a retro-inspired shoot for French Playboy. Despite her heritage,
Alexandra and older sister Theodora have been described as the ‘anti-Hilton
sisters’ because of their rejection of the par ty lifestyle.
Images cour tesy of Paul Schmitt &
Ber trand Bozon/Louis Vuitton
London aristocrat Mary Char teris first shot to fame at the age of 15 when Isabella Blow
described her as the new face of fashion. Mary’s aunt, Daphne Guinness, took her to several
fashion shows in Paris, and over the next eight years she made a name for herself as a model
in Jalouse and Vogue. Mary has since moved on to study fashion at Parsons, New York, and has
plans to become a designer.
The more fashion-conscious among tennis fans
were voicing their concerns about wardrobe
faults at this year’s Australian Open, and it would
seem that Louis Vuitton has also been keeping an
eye out for the new Anna Kournikova. They’ve
tipped bright, young, New York-based Daria
Schieferstein as one to watch, both on and off
the cour t. She may not be a household name yet,
but it can’t be far off.
S tudio 54’s ritzy, kitschy influence can still be seen on the catwalk but a softer, less edgy,
70’s autumnal breeze drifted through Somerset House as tan, burnt orange and mustard
yellow proliferated. With crushed velvet, tie-dye and lamé also making a comeback (actually
when was lamé ever out of fashion?), Retro also glimpsed a widening of the trouser leg in a hint
that flares are back, combined with groovy denim shir ts. Look out, the urban cowboy’s back!
Tweed, corduroy and tar tan are in vogue as the major heritage brands reinterpreted classic
looks. Mulberry teamed up corduroy suits with long socks while more contemporary designers
like Ashish went for edgier interpretations of plaid. But once again, Westwood was Queen
V in Retro’s eyes with a wickedly cool depiction of Londoners using red, tar tan prints and
woolen pieces cut in trademark jaunty angles. Expect to see the flapper look back, par ticularly
drop-waisted 1920’s dresses, which will also influence contemporary dress waistlines.
DA
VID
embellished
koma
Georgian-born David Koma’s heavily
statement dresses
projected the designer on to the
international stage at an early age,
with his graduate collection of sculptural
dresses earning him the Harrods
Design Award in 2009. This year his
spectacular show at London Fashion
Week was inspired by sinister forests,
Tim Bur ton and hallucinations. The
collection was dark but punctuated
with explosive splashes of red, gold and
green, and the chameleon designer’s
outfits, already worn by Lady Gaga,
Beyonce and Alicia Keys, will continue
to set the trends.
2011/12 TRENDSETTERS
FELI
CITY BROWN
One of last season’s biggest hits, Felicity
Brown, returned with a collection of high-
voltage glamour inspired by Picasso’s ballet
illustrations. The pieces felt sophisticated
but with a contrasting tribal element, and
included ruffles with up to sixty layers of
silk. When asked to describe the Felicity
Brown woman, the London-based designer
replied: “A leading lady in an old black
and white film. My ideal customer shares
this elegance; she’s natural and embraces
fabric.”
LOU
ISE GRAY
Winner of the New Talent Award at
the Scottish Fashion Awards in 2007,
this was Louise Gray’s fifth consecutive
season at London Fashion Week,
during which time she has built up a
label based on boldly textured, brightly
coloured garments, where nothing is
quite what it seems. Louise’s Autumn/
Winter 2011 collection was inspired by
“the young, the streets and the bold”.
Her creative use of colour, texture,
hand silk screening and embroidery
has been used in collaborations with
Cotton USA, Nicholas Kirkwood and
the Smiley Company among others.
NA
SIRMAZHAR
Nasir Mazhar cer tainly likes to create something
people will talk about, and this season’s offerings
were no exception. His Autumn/Winter 2011
collection – inspired by London culture, the animal
kingdom and S&M – opened with a model in an
orange fur trapper hat, followed by a girl in a pink
veil topped with a white tiger-print cap. This set
the tone for the rest of the show, a cacophony of
remarkable and inventive headwear, alongside
varied use of materials and body paint.
WAL
PLANK
THE
KING
London Fashion Week has always been surrounded by controversy, whether it be a stylist
flouncing off in a huff because a designer is using normal-sized models (Mark Fast, 2010) or
battles over encroaching schedules (New York Fashion Week & LFW, 2008). This year the
outrage honours went to label Meadham Kirchhoff for their anarchic catwalk. Keeping the
fashionista waiting, cluttering the stage and avoiding timed choreography may put editors and
photographers’ noses out of joint, but according to João Paulo Nunes, it crowns the dynamic
duo catwalk champions of the world.
meadham
KIRCHHOFF
parade with no interval and just two or three metres
in between them. In addition, if designers and stylists
spend a considerable amount of time and money
booking popular models, the winning duo of the
THE
British Fashion Awards 2010 chose to use unfamiliar
audience
faces to parade their garments.
In a fashion week where most designers relied on
PR agencies to get celebrities on to front rows, and
ISFIRST
as leather, fur, feathers, asymmetric sleeves, diagonal
draping over the body, orange, maroon, dark blue,
and the eternal black), Meadham Kirchhoff reminded
the audience that fashion is, first and foremost,
FOREMOST
AND
BOUNDARIES dresses, ethnic gypsy blouses, white lace shir ts, and
THE
OF CREativity
deconstructed bright red tweed jackets that evoked
the irreverent spirit of Coco Chanel and how she
saw fashion as impor tant social commentary.
Fur thermore, in a puzzling world where tickets for
runway shows are as coveted as gold, and fashion
editors are regarded as celebrities, organising a
display that cannot be analysed or photographed in
the slightest is an intelligent, albeit risky, move. Up to
the advent of augmented vir tual communication via
social networking websites and blogs, fashion shows
used to be put together for buyers and press in a
process that used to be everything but democratic.
Nowadays, as images from the runways are
streamed live on to screens all over the globe, being
able to think about fashion and analyse its creativity
tends to be reduced to the image, the celebrity
and the vacuous comment. There is no doubt that
Meadham Kirchhoff’s show must have per turbed
many photographers and editors. However, once
the initial anger has dissipated, this fashion show
will go down in history not only as the day when
sar torial displays changed but also as a reminder
that Meadham Kirchhoff are a talented duo that are
in the fashion business for the long run. As creative
designers, on 22 February 2011, the duo cemented
their position as inventors of ingenious garments for
those who truly appreciate them.
For this and other ar ticles by João Paulo Nunes, visit www.worldmanabouttown.com
From Russia with love
All images cour tesy of Kevin Meredith, taken from
Toy Cameras (RotoVision)
Kevin went on to do a degree in graphic design chain-smoking and there was a guy called Fabian,
and adver tising: “I went down the design route who was a designer, but he was also the contact
and strangely didn’t include photography in my for selling LOMO in the UK.”
work. It was more something I did for fun. In my Kevin received a quick introduction to the
second year I went on a trip to New York and camera from Fabian. “He took your address
took my SLR camera, but I didn’t want to take it and then put you on their mailing list. And you’d
out at night in case I lost it.” get invites to all their par ties and that was the
After hearing about a new compact camera camera I took to on my second trip to New York
through his circle of friends and reading ar ticles in the following year in 1999. It was so liberating to
i-D magazine Kevin hotfooted it up to London, to have this compact.”
the rather grand-sounding Lomographic Embassy When Kevin left university he had three job
to buy one: “It was a cross between a junk shop offers on the table which he astutely points out is
and a design studio, everybody in there was “just nuts thinking about now”.
GoPro Wide HERO
Spinner 360°
He accepted a job with animation company
Studio AKA. But prior to taking the position Kevin
had entered the London LOMO Olympics, a
photography competition, in which Kevin finished
second out of around a hundred entries. “It was
actually joint first,” he points out, “but they did a
countback!” For tunately for Kevin they took the
top two to Tokyo for the world finals. It coincided
with his second week at Studio AKA: “I had to say
I’m sorry about this but I’ve been given this great
oppor tunity to go to Tokyo. I’ve got to go. They
were like okay, but we’re not going to pay it as
holiday pay!”
Day One consisted of photographic hunting
and gathering; Day Two the photographers
were deposited in the Tokyo fish market at 3am
with the task of shooting just three rolls of film,
freestyle, in a set time period; which meant by
Day Three the numbers were whittled down
to twenty with the finalist shooting specifically
orchestrated events.
Kevin made the cut and subsequently finished
second overall behind a Norwegian entry. A great
achievement to have on your résumé. “Well a bit
left-field,” he admits, “and in reality it’s all very
low-key, they announced the winners in a bar.
But it’s a great fun. It taught me photography
doesn’t have to be all serious, you can have fun
and games with it.”
After leaving Studio AKA Kevin went freelance,
mostly designing websites, but always taking
photos. He joined Flickr in 2004 and has built
up a following of over 15,000 with 12m page
views. “There’s a point where it snowballed
and now I have people adding me as a contact
every day. It’s bizarre. I get most work through
Flickr; it’s never that they’ve found me through
lomokev.com!”
Kevin has also branched out into teaching with
refresher photography classes where he explains
various photographic techniques, qualities and
effects. He’s taken the lessons learnt from the
LOMO Olympics into his career as a teacher: “I try
to bring the fun element into the classes I teach.”
He believes photography and in par ticular getting
to grips with a digital SLR and understanding
the technical aspects of the camera can be
overwhelming. “The great thing about handing
someone a LOMO LC-A is that the only thing you
Diana F+, cross-processed
Ultronic Panoramic
need to think about before you take a photo is
how far your subject is away from you.” Kevin’s Lomo LC-A
classes are extremely popular, with attendees
often travelling hundreds of miles to attend.
“I held one in San Francisco and somebody
travelled from Hawaii.”
Kevin reaches below the table, pulls out
a LOMO LC-A from a bag and goes in to
teacher mode, enthusing over the simplicity
of the settings and I realise even a novice, like
me, could come to grips with this wonderfully
simple camera. It’s this approach that makes
Toy Cameras so accessible, knowing that you
can achieve comparable images without any
major training. However, although the LOMO
LC-A can be shot in the dim light we get in the
UK, the toy cameras used in the book are not so
hardy. So to complete the book Kevin had the
arduous task of shooting most of the images in
Barcelona and Los Angeles. He then gives me
a steer on his favourites from the book which
include the Blackbird, Fly, Kalimar Action Shot
16 and the Spinner 360° “but you can also get
the Pop Tar ts camera [which came free with
Pop Tar ts in 2003] for as little as £2.50 on
eBay!” That leads to us talking about the Lego Lomo LC-A
camera, which you can add bricks to as you
take photos. How cool is that! Not as cool, I Diana F+
realise as we depar t the cafe and head into the
horizontal rain, as getting paid to shoot a book
on disposable cameras in the beautiful sunshine
of Barcelona and Los Angeles.
What inspired you to launch FUNK and why did Is there anything you couldn’t live without?
you choose eyewear? I couldn’t be without music, as it’s one of the most
During my apprenticeship as an optician, there was impor tant things in my life. That’s the reason I’m still
nothing in the eyewear market that I really liked, so I DJing.
decided to design my own frames.
Is there anything you regret?
What are FUNK’s future plans, and what new There is nothing I regret – everything I’ve done, it
ranges are in the pipeline? doesn’t matter what, had sense…even if it didn’t make
FUNK will always try to be ahead of the trends; right sense the moment after I did it!
now we are developing big, fat metal frames in our own
distinct style. If you could live anywhere in the world where
would it be?
What eras do FUNK sunglasses take their influence Where my home is right now, in a small village in the
from? south of Germany, surrounded by lots of nice, tolerant
FUNK is influenced by all eras of the last century and we people. They accept my little follies and they are very
transpor t the range in to the present time. honest. I travel a lot, so see many different cultures
and philosophies, but I always come back to my base
Are you a big fan of funk music? in our old farm house where I am able to live with my
Yes, you could say so. A few years back, for five creativity.
years, I ran a little funk club called Wax Hi-Fi,
in Munich. Who or what has had the biggest influence on the
way you live your life?
What track would you put on to chill out to and Music and girls.
one to get the party started?
At the moment, to chill to: Nina Simone, Who or what do you think FUNK has influenced?
See-Line Woman (Masters at Work remix). Again – music and girls!
If you could have dinner anywhere in the world And finally, if you could live in any decade/period,
where would it be and what would you eat? which one would you choose and why?
When I was 14, I was on a trip with my parents in the From the 70s until today, like I do. The reason is that
Sahara Deser t and a man invited us to his home to we live in a decade where we have everything –
have dinner together with his family. It was in a big hole freedom, tolerance, a touch of future – but the most
in the ground, and that hole was surrounded by little impor tant thing is we can do what we want and this
rooms, like caves. The people were so nice and the food is a privilege a lot of people still don’t have. I hope this
was so good that I wish I could be there again. changes and I am able to see it in my lifetime.
Retro checks out some of
the more funkadelic dates in
FUNK’s historical timeline.
2002 In February the infamous FUNK-party becomes 2009 The house of FUNK, an in-house start-to-finish
the official ISPO-party with around 2500 production line, opened in the cosy Bavarian
people in attendance. village of Kinsau. Here you can rock up to the
specialised optical store and buy the latest
designs hot off the FUNK production line.
2001 Introduction of the first prescription eyewear
collection called FUNKroyal optics. The
exclusive eyewear is a handcrafted collection 2010 Sixty new styles are released with
of styles cut from cotton acetate and includes the FUNKroyal collection welcoming
an innovative feather-hinged lever action. FUNKroyal-titan: massive frames in classic
70s/80s style cut from blocks of titanium.
ectors
W elcome to the Deep South,
where vinyl records are still
king. But surprisingly, we’re not
playground project run by two
childhood pals back in the 80s and
now turns over £1.5 million a year.
through packages sent by vendors
wanting to cash in on their
collections. Interest in the rock
talking Memphis in the US, but Rob Croydon and Julian Thomas stalwar ts is unshakeable, but even
Meopham in Kent, near the south have recently seen a boom in in the world of second-hand vinyl,
coast of England. Here you’ll find investment from collectors, some trends come and go (the company
a warehouse crammed with ultra- of whom have moved from the has experienced an inexplicable
rare albums by bands ranging from volatile stocks and shares market 40% rise in rare jazz sales over the
Abba to ZZ Top, MC5 to Blink 182. to the more reliable returns of last year, for instance). But before
This is the HQ of 991, a company early, mint recordings by the likes you rush to the attic to dig out
with the world’s largest turnover of Elvis and The Rolling Stones. your old Haircut 100 12” singles or
of collectible vinyl and memorabilia, Exper ts in jazz, rock’n’roll, heavy prog rock triple albums, take some
which star ted as a pocket-money metal and classical flock to wade advice from the exper ts.
What was your first sale?
“Unlike stocks and shares, which have had a pretty unsettled time
over the last couple of years, the collectible vinyl market is stable. A
mint copy of a scarce single by The Beatles from the early 60s, for
instance, can be wor th way more than its weight in gold.”
Gigi Gryce & Donald Byrd - New Formulas From The Jazz
Lab LP
Lovely Japanese-only sleeve design.
£65
TIPS FOR COLLECTORS
Go for stuff you like and take good care of it
– both sleeves and vinyl.
RETROSPECTIVE
cornershop
If you could live anywhere in the world,
where would it be and why?
Well I always liked Denmark for its way of
living and its people, but Brittany in France also
seems to have the most friendly and welcoming
of denizens and it’s a bit warmer than London
– but not too hot. I sometimes wonder if I’m an
Indian at all.
What’s your favourite street Have you ever splashed the cash
market? on something big?
Golborne Road, London. I rather stupidly bought a very nice
vintage Peugeot bike, thinking I may
What’s your favourite vintage/ travel around France in it, never did,
retro shop? and my father-in-law sold it before I
Ribbons & Taylor, in Stoke Newington. had ever ridden it.
What’s your all time favourite TV Is there one thing you want to do
show? before you depart the stage?
The Paper Chase or The Red Have a word with the stage secretary.
Hand Gang.