13 and Above:

Senior Scout Handbook Volume 2

The Senior Scout Handbook, 13 and Above, volume 2, welcomes you to a world of fun-filled, exciting
adventures unique only to Scouting. This is the sequel to the first volume and a special one, too.
Special because, unlike any other book that comes along your way, that you discard after going through
it once, this is meant to be your constant companion. It will serve as your compass in guiding you as
you navigate your way along the adventure-packed Eagle Scout trail.
13 and Above will pave the way into manhood. It will pluck out, from your natural curiosity, your
enthusiasm for learning through challenging activity in the wilderness. It beacons you to explore and
learn the things you would need as you enter adulthood.
May you find this book a rewarding reading experience, and may it serve you well in the years to
come.

Special thanks to Bong Saculles for creating this digital copy

for the Boy Scouts of the Philippines.

All Rights Reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission in
writing from the Boy Scouts of the Philippines.

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2
MESSAGE
The Senior Scout Handbook, 13 and Above, volume 2, welcomes you to a world of fun-filled, exciting
adventures unique only to Scouting. This is the sequel to the first volume and a special one, too.
Special because, unlike any other book that comes along your way, that you discard after going through
it once, this is meant to be your constant companion. It will serve as your compass in guiding you as
you navigate your way along the adventure-packed Eagle Scout trail.
13 and Above will pave the way into manhood. It will pluck out, from your natural curiosity, your
enthusiasm for learning through challenging activity in the wilderness. It beacons you to explore and
learn the things you would need as you enter adulthood.
The knowledge accumulated in this book is acquired through years of hard work. Previous generations
of dedicated Scouters unselfishly imparted their contributions to the Scouting Movement. It is a
product of years of experience and dedication. It is meant to prepare you with the skills and knowledge
necessary to enable you to enjoy life in the out-of-doors. More important than knowledge and skills as
a woodsman, this handbook contains some of the most useful information on environmental issues and
nature awareness. It will not only teach you how to become a seasoned bushwhacker, but also a
responsible one. It will help you minimize your impact on the environment. In this way, it will help to
protect and preserve it for the enjoyment of generations to come.
This is not a panacea to all Scouting needs. Rather, the quest for learning continues – it does not stop
here. This is only intended to open the door and guide you towards the right path. The search for
knowledge is a never-ending process. It simply goes on until you accumulate enough of it to provide
you with the necessary skills that will serve as your armor when you enter the threshold of life's real
challenges.
May you find this book a rewarding reading experience, and may it serve you well in the years to
come.
BOY SCOUTS OF THE PHILIPPINES

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Chapter 1: Finding Directions

The art of finding directions dates back to the ancient times when man travelled over unfamiliar terrain
or country without any map or compass. Primitive man was able to find his way around using the stars,
the sun, the moon, and natural signs in the forest.
Senior Scouts like you are fortunate to have this art handed down to you through generations, in
addition to the use of compass and map. You should learn both of these skills.

FINDING YOUR WAY WITHOUT A COMPASS

The first thing to learn in finding your way when you have no compass is to locate North. There are
several ways of doing this: (1) by the sun and your watch, (2) the sun shadow as a compass, (3) by the
stars, and (4) moss on trees and rocks.

Finding North by Your Watch

This method is useful as long as (1) your watch is a standard 2-hand type and is running at the correct
standard time, and (2) the sun is visible.

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With your watch in your hand, point the hour hand at the sun. Do this by holding a matchstick so that
its shadow falls along the hour hand. From the center of the dial and halfway between 12 o'clock and
the hour hand, draw an imaginary straight line. That is South; the opposite direction is North.
Finding North by the Sun
Using a flat area, clear away debris until you have a three-foot circle. Get a straight stick, sharpen both
end and push it into the ground until its shadow fall into the center of the cleared area. Place a twig at
the tip of the shadow. Two more times for about 15 mins. Interval place another twig at the shadow tip
and then use these twigs as your guide to draw a straight line in the dirt.

Knowing that the sun rises in the East and sets in the West, therefore, the first marking on the shadow is
West and the second one is the East. Draw a line perpendicular to the East-West line to establish North-
South direction
Finding North by the North Star
When you have to travel at night and the stars are clearly visible, it is fun to look at them. The chart of
the northern sky should be studied so you can identify and isolate the Big Dipper and the Small Dipper
from the other stars. When you look at these stars at night, imagine them connected by straight lines to
form imaginary figures.
On a cold night, when the sky is clear and the stars visible, take time out to gaze up in the heavens to
study stars. Study the chart of the northern night sky and learn to identify the Big Dipper and Small
Dipper so when you look for them at night you can isolate them from the rest of the stars. When you
viewed these stars at night, imagine them connected by a straight lines to from an imaginary figures.
The Big Dipper is relatively easy to spot in the night sky, it consist of seven bright stars arrange in the
shape of a big hanging pot, with the first four stars forming the bowl and the remaining three stars
forming the shape of crooked handle. To get a fix on Polaris Star’s position, trace an imaginary line
between the two stars that formed the beaker, then extend this line towards the direction where the pot
seems to be pouring its content. About five to six times the distance between the two pointer stars you
will find the Polaris or North Star.

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Incidentally, the Polaris Star formed the end handle of the Small Dipper.
When you are facing the horizon directly underneath the Polaris Star, you are facing towards true
North.
Between these two dippers stretches a long line of four faint stars which represent the tail of Draco the
Dragon. Locate these stars to make sure you have really located the North Star.

Other Ways of Finding North

In dense forests of the Philippines, you will observe that green moss attach themselves on that part of
the tree trunk that faces North. This is so, because the northerly portion of all trees do not receive any
sunlight at any time of the year.
In open areas of the country, look for long anthills. They are oriented in a north-south position with the
wider portion of the anthill colony facing north.
In some parts of the Philippines, a certain kind of palm tree called the Travelers Palm grows. This is a
special tree whose leaves are not spread out in several directions, but follow a North-South orientation.

FINDING DIRECTION BY COMPASS

Using the Magnetic Compass
If there is one piece of outdoor Scout equipment that a Senior Scout should be thoroughly familiar
with, it is his Compass. With it, he can follow trail maps or sketch his own maps. With its proper use,
he cannot get lost even in new territory.
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Magnetic North. The compass needle points not to True North, but to a Magnetic North. In the
Philippines, this is a point about 2 degrees west of True North to which all Compass needles are
attracted. This magnetic north is caused by the earth spinning on its axis creating a magnetic attraction.
If you want to know the True North by means of your compass, hold it flat on the palm of your hand
and let the needle rotate freely until it stops and the arrowhead points to magnetic North. Sight an
object two (2) degrees to the east of the compass needle and you are sighting at True North.
Since any compass needle is automatically attracted to any iron or steel that is close by, make sure no
knife, axe, power line, or even another compass is so near as this will deflect the compass needle.
“Boxing the Compass”

This is a technical term which simply means identifying the various points of a magnetic compass.
The compass circle has 360 degrees. Each degree is called an Azimuth. There are four main points of
the compass. East, which is 90 degrees azimuth; South, or 180 degrees azimuth; West, or 270 degrees
azimuth; North, or 360 or 0 degree azimuth. In addition, there are four other points, namely: Northeast
at 45 degrees azimuth; Southeast at 135 degrees azimuth; Southwest at 225 degrees azimuth; and
Northwest at 315 degrees azimuth. Together, these 8 compass points are called the Cardinal points.
In-between these 8 cardinal points are eight other inter-cardinal points. Between North and Northeast is
North-Northeast (NNE) at 22.5 degrees azimuth; between north-east and east is East-Northeast (ENE)
at 67.5 degrees azimuth; between east and southeast is East-Southeast (ESE) at 112.5 degrees azimuth;
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between south and southeast is South-Southeast (SSE) at 157.5 degrees azimuth; between south and
southwest is South-Southwest (SSW) at 202.5 degrees azimuth; between west and southwest is West-
Southwest (WSW) at 247.5 degrees azimuth; between west and northwest is West-Northwest (WNW)
at 292.5 degrees azimuth; and between north and northwest is North-Northwest (NNW) at 337.5
degrees azimuth. In mentioning these inter-cardinal points, you mention first the main compass points
before the cardinal points. Thus, you say “East-South-east”, not Southeast-East.
Senior Scouts, however, go beyond these 16 points in boxing it. Particularly in the land-based and sea-
based Senior Scouts, the techniques of boxing the compass up to at least 32 points, or a difference of
11.25 degrees per direction, is the mark of a master at compass work.
The midpoint between north and north-northeast is called North by East; between north-northeast and
northeast is called Northeast by North; between north-east and east-northeast is Northeast by East; and
between east-northeast and east is East by North.
The other quadrants (or quarters of a compass) are named in the same style as may be seen in the
illustration.
Using the Compass
When you follow a compass course, whether making or following a map, two things must be
considered: direction and distance. Every Senior Scout owns a compass which he can use to find
direction. Every Senior Scout has two legs, which he can use to measure distance.
To learn how to use your compass, practice by finding the direction to important landmarks in your
community. To find the exact azimuth of a landmark, face in that parallel direction, holding your
compass in your hand parallel to the ground. Let the needle or dial of the compass move until it
becomes still; then sight across it. Read the degree number (azimuth) on the far side of the compass
under an imaginary line running from your eye, through the needle point, to the landmark.
To find the direction of 105 degrees, for example, hold the compass flat on your hands parallel to the
ground close to your stomach, and turn your body slowly until the line of sight from your eye, through
the pivot, runs through the 105 degree mark. Extend an imaginary line further until you hit a landmark
which, of course, lies along the 105 degrees azimuth.

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ESTIMATING

Estimating Distances
After determining the direction, you can now move toward the landmark and measure off its distance
from your original position.
To do this, you must first know the length of your average step. Using a tape measure (or measured
rope), lay off a distance of 100 meters over rough ground approximating a natural trail. Then walk the
100 meters and back to the starting point using your natural steps, for a total of 200 meters, and
carefully counting your steps. Dividing 200 by the number of steps counted gives you the length of
your average step in meters. Write it down; do not forget it and use it every time you estimate distance
over solid ground.
However, in a situation where the application of this technique is rendered useless by the presence of
natural barriers such as river, wide stream, or deep canyon which can prevent you from walking
towards your objective to measure its distance, a different technique is called for.
The Napoleon Method. Standing at the other side of the river bank. Bow your head until your chin
touches your upper chest. Holding your right (or left) hand over your eyebrows like a visor cap brim,
adjust your hand slowly until its edge brim front seems to touch the opposite bank of the river. Without
changing the position of your hand, make a quarter turn toward your side of the river. Mark the point at
which edge of your hand seems to touch the near shore. Pace off the distance from where you stand to
that point, multiply it by your average step length and that is the width of the river.
If you are wearing a Scout cap, use the visor instead of your hand.

The Stick Method. Locate a rock or any fixed object on the opposite shore of the river (A). Place a
stick on the spot where you stand. Walk along your side of the river at right angles to AB for any
number of paces (say, 40 paces) and place another stick there (C). Continue walking along the shore for
the same number of steps (another 40 paces) and peg a stick there also (D). Then walk away from the
river at right angles to BD, until you can sight a straight line over stick C to the rock on the opposite
bank. Stop there and mark your spot (E). Measure DE with your pace to get the width of the river.

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 Pencil Method of Estimation

Other Estimation Techniques

You can also estimate heights of objects you cannot reach (such as a tree or a building) by using either
the Pencil Method or the Tree-felling Method.
In the Pencil Method, get a Scout friend whose height you know to stand beside a tree. Stand back and
hold a pencil or stick at arm’s length in front of you. With one eye closed, look over the pencil or stick
so that the top of it appears to touch the head of your friend. Now move your thumb along the stick so
it will appear to touch the base of the tree. Then move the stick up to see how many times this
measurement goes, up to the height of the tree. Multiply that number by the height of your friend (in
meters). That is the height of the tree. Use this method to measure also high walls, hills, or mountains.
In the Tree Felling Method, stand away from a tree which you want to measure. Hold a stick upright at
arm’s length; sight over the stick so that its tip coincides with the top of the tree and your thumb is at its
base. Now swing the stick parallel to the ground as if the tree is falling, keeping your thumb at the base
of the tree. Where the tip of the pencil seems to touch the ground, let another Scout mark it.
Then pace off from this spot to the base of the tree and that is the height of the tree.
It is also advantageous for you to know some personal measurements, so that when you are outdoors or
you have no foot-rule, you can still make emergency estimations.

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 Tree Felling Method of Estimation

For instance, you must know the following (in centimeters)

1. length of your shoe
2. length of your foot
3. your arm length
4. your height
5. your arm span
6. your vertical arm reach
7. length of your forefinger (from the knuckles to the tip)
8. your hand span (from thumb tip to tip of little finger)
9. length of your thumb

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Following a Compass Course
The Senior Scout who can follow a compass course for at least one kilometer involving four changes in
direction will have no trouble following or even making a map.
Let us suppose that your compass course states, as follows:
Starting Point to Point 1 = 100 degrees azimuth for 35 meters
Point 1 to 2 = 190 degrees azimuth for 24.4 meters
Point 2 to 3 = 285 degrees azimuth for 31.25 meters
Point 3 Starting point =415 degrees azimuth
First of all, find out how many steps it will take to walk 35 meters using your average pace (say your
average pace is .80 meters). Divide 35 meters by .80, you will get 43.75. This means that you will need
to walk 43-75 steps to reach the distance of 35 meters.
Now with your compass, find the 100 degrees azimuth. This is called your "forward azimuth." Sight
through this azimuth and pick out a landmark, such as a tree, grass clump, or rock. Then walk toward
the landmark until you cover 43.75 steps or 35 meters.
If there are no prominent landmarks, mark your starting point and walk along the azimuth as nearly as
you can estimate, without losing sight of the starting point. Then take a “back azimuth” reading from
your point 1 to the starting point.
The general rule for finding the back azimuth is: “If the forward azimuth is less than 180 degrees, add
180 degrees to it; if greater than 180 degrees, subtract 180 degrees.”

In our example, the forward azimuth of 100 degrees is less than 180 degrees; therefore, add 180
degrees to it to obtain a back azimuth of 280 degrees. Take a back azimuth reading of 280 degrees to
your starting point; if it is correct, then you are on the right path. If not, move a little to the right or left,
until you see the starting point on the 280 degrees azimuth.

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Do the same with the other readings until you cover your compass course and you are back to the
starting point.

MAP SKETCHING
In order to make a map of this compass course, you will need simple field notes using ordinary ruled
paper. Each line across the page represents a different azimuth direction on the compass course. Any
landmark – house, stream, hill, etc. – on your left as you walk along the azimuth is drawn by the
corresponding symbol above the ruled line. Those on your right are indicated below the ruled line.

While you are walking along the compass course, count your steps so that when you come to a
landmark you can draw the appropriate symbol and write the number of steps from the starting point.
When you have finished going through the compass course, you will have a field note similar to the
one below.

Sketching the Map

The first step in sketching a map is to determine a map scale; that is, knowing the number of meters on
land re-presented by one centimeter on the map. The technique is to select a scale that adjusts the size
of the area being mapped to the size desired for the finished map. For our example, we will use a map
scale of 50 meters to 1 centimeter, properly written as Scale 1:50 M.
Next, you go over your field notes and convert steps into meters. For example, if the first azimuth in
your field note is 35 meters or 43.75 steps. At Scale 1:50 M., 35 meters equals 0.70 meters or 7
centimeters (35 ÷ 50).
Now suppose at 20 steps from the starting point ' you saw a big tree. Since your step is 0.80 meters
long, the distance to the tree is 16 meters. By scale, 16 meters is about 3.2 centimeters.
In map sketching, the top of the paper is always assumed to be North. If you are using ruled paper,
place it so that the lines run vertically and you can use these lines as guide for your protractor. If you
can get a 360 degree protractor, it will certainly serve your purpose; otherwise your compass can serve
as one.

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On your paper, put a dot to serve as your starting point. Exactly over this dot, put your protractor center
with the protractor line from O to 180 degrees running parallel to the ruled lines and with the "0"
indicator toward the North side of the paper.
In your field notes, find the first azimuth, which in our example is 100 degrees. Opposite the 100-
degree mark on the protractor, place a dot. Through this dot and the starting point, draw a light straight
line. Along this line, measure with your scale or foot rule your scaled distance of 35 meters (which is 7
centimeters on your map). Place another dot at the end of the 7 centimeters of your line. This is your
Point 1.
In order to plot the second azimuth, place your protractor again exactly on the dot representing Point 1.
Keep the 0-180 degree protractor line parallel to the ruled lines on the paper. Find the second azimuth
on the protractor and mark it with a dot, just like what you did on the first line. This is Point 2 of your
map. From this point, draw a straight light line going to Point 1. Again from your field notes, get the
number of steps in the second azimuth and convert it into a scaled distance in centimeters. Using your
foot rule, measure again this distance, and draw a dot at the end of the measurement to represent Point
3.
Continue making the rest of the map this way until the sketch of the compass course is completed.
Then check with your field notes again and draw on the sketch map the symbols representing the
landmarks along the way. Always use your foot rule to measure the distances of the landmarks in
relation to the beginning of each azimuth.
Maps for longer-distance trips or expeditions are also sketched the same way. Use these maps as
records of your trips in the out-of-doors.

Chapter 2: Weather Lore

A Senior Scout who is continuously advancing through the Scouting ranks acquires basic education for
many life experiences – emergency, recreational opportunities, campcraft, weather prediction, and

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many others. These skills in the long run would be a source of pleasure to himself and to others. In
developing into a full-grown man he becomes a master of his ENVIRONMENT.

Any Scout, young or old, should be weather-wise. One of the factors to be considered in planning and
conducting any outdoor activity is the weather. A little knowledge of weather lore and a bit of common
sense will make a Senior Scout “LAGING HANDA.” This is far better than taking risks.

THE NATURE OF WEATHER

The science of the atmosphere or simply the study of weather is known as meteorology.
Weather is the condition of the atmosphere at any particular time and place. It is always changing since
it comprised the elements of air temperature, air pressure, humidity, clouds, precipitation, visibility, and
wind. It should be noted that the source of all weather is the heat that is contained in the air. If we were
to measure and observe these elements over a specified interval of time, we would obtain the “average
weather” or the climate of a particular region. Climate, therefore, represent the accumulation of daily
and seasonal weather events over a long period of time.
Causes of Weather
The greatest contributor to modern weather analysis is probably Wilhelm Djerknes (1882-1951), a
Norwegian meteorologist. He developed the system of air mass analysis which makes it possible to
follow the movement of large masses of air as they travel over the earth’s surface. On the other hand,
Francis Bacon, an English nobleman, started the study of weather cycle.
Another influence on the weather is the coriolous force, which tends to whirlpool the atmosphere in the
arctic, temperate, and semi-tropical zones. The coriolous force is strongest at the North and South poles
and becomes weaker as distance away from the poles increases.
THE UPPER ATMOSPHERE –
Is cold.
Freezes water vapor.
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 Is lighter than the air below.
Has low air pressure.
Allows sun’s radiation to pass through.
Is not heated by the sun’s radiation.

THE LOWER ATMOSPHERE –

Is warm or cold.
Is affected by land and water.
Is heavier than the air above.
Has high and low air pressures.
Has air masses meeting at fronts.
Absorbs the sun’s radiation.
Contains pollutants and dust.
Lags behind the earth's rotation.
The movement of air influences weather changes.
Understanding the characteristics of the air in our atmosphere can help us to predict the weather.

CLASSIFICATION OF CLOUDS

Clouds are aesthetically appealing and they add excitement to the atmosphere Without them there
would be no rain thunder or lightning, rainbows or halos. A cloud is a visible aggregate of tiny water
droplets or rice crystals suspended in the air. Some clouds are found only at high elevations while
others nearly touch the ground. They exist in a seemingly endless variety of forms-thick or thin, big or
little and divided into 10 basic types.
The first system for classifying clouds was proposed in 1820 by a French naturalist named Lamarck
(1744-1892). A year later, Luke Howard, an English naturalist, developed a cloud classification system
the basis of which is still in use today. He employed Latin words to describe clouds as they appear to a
ground observer.
The four basic cloud forms in Howard’s system are:

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 Stratus (layer) – a sheetlike cloud
Cumulus (heap) – a puffy cloud
Cirrus (curl of hair) – a wispy cloud
Nimbus (violent rain) – a rain cloud
Other clouds cloud be described by combining the basic types. Modern cloud classification expands
Howard’s original system. The most convenient method is based on their altitude: high clouds, middle
clouds, low clouds, and clouds with vertical development
1. HIGH CLOUDS. The base of these clouds is at an altitude of 3.8 kilometers (1,247 feet) or more.
They are composed of ice crystals and are generally thin. The outline of the sun or moon may be seen
through them. The principal forms are:
a. Cirrus. Thin, featherlike clouds with a delicate appearance, frequently arranged in bands
across the sky; sometimes called mare’s tails.
b. Cirrocumulus. Clouds like patches of cotton or a mass of small flakes, frequently in groups or
lines; sometimes called mackerel sky.
c. Cirrostratus. Whitish layers, like a sheet or veil, giving the sky a milky appearance. They
often produce a halo around the sun or moon.
2. MIDDLE CLOUDS. These clouds range from 1.6 to 3.7 kilometers. The principal forms are:
a. Altocumulus. White or gray patches or layers of clouds having a rounded appearance.
b. Altostratus. Gray to bluish layers of clouds often with a streaked appearance.

3. LOW CLOUDS. The bases of these clouds range from near the surface to about 1.2 kilometers
above the earth.
a. Stratus. Low, uniform, sheetlike clouds similar to fog but not resting on the ground.
b. Stratocumulus. Large rounded clouds with a soft appearance usually arranged in some pattern
with spaces between.
c. Nimbostratus. Low, shapeless, thick layers, dark gray in color. They are usually accompanied
by rain or snow.
4. CLOUDS WITH VERTICAL DEVELOPMENT. These are clouds which extend from a lower level
of 0.3 kilometers to a maximum of more than 6.6 kilometers.
a. Cumulus. Thick, dome-shaped clouds, usually with flat bases and many round projections
from the upper areas. Cumulus clouds are often widely separated from one another.
b. Cumulonimbus. Thick, towering clouds of large dimensions with cauliflower-like tops. They
are often crowned with veils of thick cirrus giving the entire cloud a flat top. These are the
thunderhead clouds which frequently are associated with thunderstorms.

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WEATHER INSTRUMENTS
Prediction of the weather is dependent upon instruments which can show the changes that take place in
the atmosphere. A single reading of any instrument can tell you something about what weather is, but a
second reading must be made in order to tell what the weather is going to be.
The most obvious weather instrument to measure heat is the Thermometer, the expansion and
contraction of which indicate changes in temperature. Mercury is most often used because it is a liquid
metal which readily expands and contracts with changes in temperature. The temperature scale used on
weather Thermometer may be either the Fahrenheit (F) or Centigrade (C) scale (also called the Celsius
scale). The difference between the two can be illustrated by a comparison of the boiling point and the
freezing point of water on both scales. Temperatures given in one scale can be easily converted to the
other by the following formulas:

Fahrenheit to Centigrade:
C = 5/9 (F - 32)
Centigrade to Fahrenheit:
F = 9/5 (C + 32)
However, these may be combined mathematically in a single formula:
C/ (F - 32) =5/9
Maximum and minimum temperatures during a period of weather observations may be recorded by a
Thermograph, which makes a written record. This instrument employs a heat-sensitive bimetallic strip
instead of a liquid-filled tube to indicate temperature changes. It is less accurate than a liquid-filled
thermometer but it has the advantage of providing a continuous record of the temperature variations
over a period of time. The instrument must be protected from exposure to sunlight if temperature
readings of the air are to be compared.
The most important meteorological instrument is the Barometer. This instrument measures the changes
in atmospheric pressure. There are two kinds of barometers: Mercurial and Aneroid. Normally, the
atmosphere holds up a column of mercury 30 inches high. As the pressure increases, the column moves
up; and as it decreases, it moves down.

18
To improvise an aneroid barometer, you will need a mailing tube, two mailing-tube lids (the type that
slides over the tube), a rubber balloon, string, and tape. Place the lid over the end of the tube and make
sure that it slides freely and easily up and down. With the lid about three-quarters on, insert the deflated
balloon into the tube from the other end. Blow the balloon up, making sure that the lid does not move
as you move it. Tie the balloon when it just completely fills the tube. Slide the other lid over this end
and tape it down securely. As the weather changes, observe the movement of the loose lid of the tube.
With the help of the Weather Bureau, you can mark the tube with the correct barometric pressure.

To measure wind speed, an instrument called Anemometer is used. The most common type of
anemometer consists of small cups attached by spokes to a shaft that is free to rotate. The instrument is
mounted on 2 pole so that the cups will catch the wind and spin the wheel at a rate proportional to the
wind speed. The rotation of the wheel is usually converted into an electrical signal which registers the
wind speed on a dial in some convenient location. Wind speed may be recorded in miles per hour,
although official weather reports use knots (1.85 kilometers per hour).
A Wind Vane is used to determine wind direction. Usually it consists of free-moving arrow-shaped
pointer mounted on top of a pole. The wind catches the tail of the arrow and swings the point to the
direction from which the wind blows. Both the wind vane and anemometer may be combined in a small
device that resembles a wingless airplane.
The Psychrometer is an instrument used to measure the humidity of the air. Two thermometers set side
by side are used to indicate humidity. One of the thermometers has a water-soaked wick over its bulb.
As the air evaporates the water on the wick, it indicates the dryness or wetness of the air by how much
the temperature is lowered on the wet-bulb thermometer, as compared with the dry-bulb thermometer.
The weather man uses other instruments called Rain Gauge which measures the amount of-rain that
falls usually over a 24-hour period in a particular area. The common Rain Gauge consists of a wide-
mouthed funnel which catches the rain and empties it into a cylindrical container below. The mouth of
the funnel is exactly ten times larger in diameter than the container underneath Thus, 0.25 centimeters
of rain will fill the container to a depth of 2.54 centimeters or 1 inch. This magnification of the actual
rainfall makes it possible to measure the fall accurately with a marked stick which is dipped into the
container.-
The weather at upper levels of the atmosphere must also be known. The usual means of investigating
the weather at the upper atmosphere is by a Radiosonde. This instrument consists of a small set -of
devices which record temperature, pressure, and humidity. The instruments are coupled with a
miniature radio transmitter and mounted in a small box. This is, carried aloft by a helium-filled balloon,
Special receiving sets record the information as it is automatically sent out by the Transmitter.

19
The Radiosonde may rise to an altitude of 100,000 feet before the balloon bursts. The instrument then
falls back to earth by means of a small parachute.
Another valuable weather instrument is the Radar. Particles of water in the form of cloud droplets or
precipitation reflect radar waves. In this case, weather disturbances can be seen on a radar screen.
Radar gives the precise location and extent of storms. The reflected echoes indicate distance and
direction of the storm from the transmitter. On a radarscope, an observer can watch the origin and
growth of a storm system and track it as it moves across the land. Radar also can be used to measure
the speed of high altitude winds; and it is particularly useful in tracking typhoons.
Recent advances in space science have given meteorologists still another electronic device to use in
weather observations. Space Satellites, of a type called Tiros, relay photographs of the earth taken from
altitudes of 463 to 804 kilometers by means of television cameras. By superimposing a sequence of
such photographs, weathermen are able to get a picture of atmospheric conditions over a wide area.

WEATHER MAP
Through coded weather information, weather maps are prepared. The messages are decoded and the
reported conditions are translated into figures and symbols. These are grouped around a small circle
drawn on a map at the position of the station reporting the information. The circle on the map, with the
figures and symbols describing the weather conditions at that location is called a Station Model.
A simplified weather map usually shows isobars, highs and lows, and fronts. It may also indicate other
conditions such as wind directions, temperatures, and precipitation.

WEATHER FORECASTING
The atmosphere contains 5 billion cubic miles of air flowing in constantly changing patterns. It is then
the job of the meteorologist to apply scientific knowledge of the physical law known to control air
movements. His basic tool to predict the weather is the weather map.
Probably the easiest weather forecast to make is a persistence forecast, which is simply a prediction
that weather will be the same as present weather. This is most accurate for time periods of several and
become less and less accurate after that. Another method of weather forecasting is climatological
forecast which is based on the climatology (average weather) of a particular region. Climatological
forecasts can also be used to predict other weather elements such as the maximum temperature. The
third method is probability forecast which is a forecast of the probability of occurrence one or more of
a mutually exclusive weather conditions.
20
Forecasting tomorrow’s weather entails a variety of techniques and methods with the aid of the
computer, a huge number of charts, satellite data, intuition, experience, and a little luck. Actually, with
the ever changing state of the atmosphere, some forecast turn out correct, while others do not. These
bits of information are not intended to make you an expert Scout forecaster but to provide you with an
understanding of the problems confronting anyone who attempts to predict the behavior of this
churning mass of air we call our Atmosphere.

TYPHOONS
A typhoon is an intense storm of tropical origin, with winds exceeding 64 knots (74 kph) which forms
over the warm northern Pacific Ocean and Southeastern China Sea.
This same type of storm is given different names in different regions of the world. In the United States,
it is called a hurricane; in Australia, a willy willy, and in India, a cyclone.
In the Philippine version, a typhoon is an intense tropical disturbance characterized by a low pressure
area at the center. In the Northern Hemisphere, as a result of the earth’s rotation about its axis, the wind
blows counter clockwise around the center of a low pressure area and in the Southern Hemisphere, the
wind blows clockwise. The typhoon is the strongest of a class of weather disturbances called tropical
cyclones.

There are certain regions where cyclones are favorably formed. These regions are large and warm
oceanic areas. It has been observed that the lowest temperature of the ocean at the time of cyclone
formation is 26 to 28 degrees Centigrade.
Tropical cyclones are classified according to the strength of the accompanying winds:
a. Depression – maximum wind speed is less than 63 kilometers per hour.
b. Tropical storm – maximum wind speed ranges from 63 kph to 118 kph.
c. Typhoon – wind is 118 kilometers per hour or more.
The choice of giving women's names for typhoons instead of boy's names is purely arbitrary. In the
Northern Hemisphere, the typhoons are named after girls; in the Southern Hemisphere, they are named
after boys. The practice was started by the U.S. Navy and Air Force meteorologists during World War
II.

21
The Philippine Weather Bureau (now named Philippine Atmospheric, Geophysical, and Astronomical-
Services Administration or PAGASA), however, adopted. 8 set of Filipino feminine nicknames because
these names are more familiar to the Filipinos especially those who reside in the rural areas.
A typhoon consists of an “eye” which is a small central area of some 10-50 kms in diameter. It is
characterized by relative calm or light winds, clear to partly cloudy skies, high humidity, warm
temperature, and usually fine weather. The causes have not been established yet. Its source of energy is
the warm most air at the ocean surface. As this moist air converges toward the center of the typhoon, it
rises. Continued rising of the moist air results in cooling and subsequent condensation of the water
vapor. The condensation of the water vapor releases large amounts of latent heat. It is estimated that
three percent of this tremendous energy is used in maintaining the energy of the winds. The energy
released in a single day by a typhoon is equivalent to about 400 super hydrogen bombs.
In the course of a typhoon, it is necessary that one should know its most dangerous part. If you are
facing in the direction toward which the typhoon is moving, the side to your right -is called the “right
side of the typhoon”. This is the. “dangerous half” of the typhoon because the winds are strongest on
this side:

STORM SIGNALS
Everyone should take all the necessary precautions during the approach and passage of a typhoon.
Senior Scouts should be familiar with the following storm signal which are broadcast over the radio.
During storms or typhoons, all Senior Scouts are expected to assist in emergency service at the disaster
areas. When such a calamity occurs in your place or area of concern, you should do your part together
with your Crew or Outfit.

ALPHABETICAL LIST OF NAMES

FOR TROPICAL CYCLONES
The first tropical cyclone of the year starts with the name beginning in letter A as in ATRING under
column 1 for 1997 and so on down the list as one disturbance succeeds another. The 5th year (2001)
will bring us back to column 1 of ATRING. In the event that the number of tropical cyclones within the
22
year exceeds 19, an auxiliary lists is used, the first six of which are listed under each column.

1 2 3 4
1997 1998 1999 2000
2001 2002 2003 2004
2005 2006 2007 2008
2009 2010 2011 2012
2013 2014 2015 2016
1 ATRING AKANG AURING ASIANG
2 BINING BISING BEBENG BIRING
3 KURING KLARING KARING KONSING
4 DALING DELING DIDING DITANG
5 ELANG EMANG ETANG EDENG
6 GORING GADING GENING GLORING
7 HULING HELING HELMING HUANING
8 IBIANG ILIANG ISING ISANG
9 LUMING LOLENG LUDING LUSING
10 MILING MIDING MAMENG MARING
11 NARSING NORMING NENENG NINGNING
12 OPENG OYANG ONIANG OSANG
13 PINING PASING PEPANG PARING
14 RUBING RITANG RENING REMING
15 SALING SUSANG SENDANG SENIANG
16 TASING TERING TRINING TOYANG
17 UNDING UDING ULDING ULPIANG
18 WALDING WELING WARLING WELPRING
19 YEYENG YANING YAYANG YERLING
AUXILIARY LISTS
20 ANDING ANING ADING APIANG
21 BINANG BIDANG BARANG BASIANG
22 KADIANG KATRING KRISING KAYANG
23 DINANG DELANG DADANG DORANG
24 EPANG ESANG ERLING ENANG
25 GUNDANG GARDING GOYING GRASING

Public Storm Signal No. 1

23
Meteorological Conditions:
– A tropical cyclone will affect the locality
– Winds of 30-60 kph may be expected in at least 36 hours
Impact of the winds:
– Twigs and branches of small trees may be broken
– Some banana plants may tilt or land flat on the ground
– Some houses of very light materials may be partially unroofed.
– Very light or no damage at all may be sustained by the exposed communities.
– Rice in flowering stage may suffer significant damage.
Precautionary Measures:
– People are advised to listen to the latest Severe Weather Bulletin issued by PAGASA every six hours.
General Note:
– Business may be carried out as usual. When the tropical cyclone is strong, intensifying of is moving
close, this signal may be gradually increased. Disaster preparedness is activated to alert status.
Public Storm Signal No. 2
Meteorological Conditions:
– A moderate tropical cyclone will affect the locality.
– Winds of 60-100 kph may be expected in at least 24 hours.
Impact of the winds:
– Some coconut trees may be tilted with few others broken.
– Few big trees may be uprooted.
– Many banana plants may be destroyed.
– Rice and corn may be adversely affected.
– Large number of light houses may be partially or totally unroofed.
– Some old galvanized iron roofings may roll off.
– Light to moderate damage to palay in flowering stages.

Precautionary Measures:
– The sea and coastal waters are dangerous to smaller seacrafts. Fishermen are advised not to go out to
sea.
– Avoid unnecessary risks. Traveling by sea or air is risky.
– Stay indoors.
– Secure properties.
General Note:
– Special attention should be given to the latest position, direction, and speed of movement and intesity
of the tropical cyclone as it may intensify and move towards the locality.
– Disaster preparedness agencies and other organizations are alerted.
Public Storm Signal No. 3
Meteorological Conditions:
– A strong tropical cyclone will affect the locality.
– Winds of 100-185 kph may be expected in at least 18 hours.

24
Impact of the winds:
– Almost all banana plants may be destroyed and a large number of trees may be uprooted.
– Rice and corn crops may suffer heavy damage.
– Majority of light houses may be unroofed or destroyed and there may be considerable damage to
structures of light to medium construction.
– There may be widespread disruption of electrical power and communication services.
– In general, moderate to heavy damage may be expected in both the agricultural and industrial sectors.
– Travel by sea and air is very risky.
– Sea and coastal waters will be dangerous to all seacrafts.
Precautionary Measures:
– People are advised to evacuate and stay in strong buildings.
– Evacuate low-lying areas.
– Stay away from coastal areas and river banks.
– Watch out for the passage of the “eye.” Do not venture away from the safety of the shelter.
– Suspend classes in all levels and make sure children stay in the safety of strong buildings.
General Note:
– The disturbance is dangerous to threatened or affected communities.
– The passage of the “eye” of the typhoon is indicated by a sudden change from bad to fair weather.
Fair weather may last from 1-2 hours after which the worst weather will resume with very strong winds
generally coming from the opposite direction.
– Disaster preparedness and response agencies/organizations are activated to respond appropriately.
Public Storm Signal No. 4
Meteorological Conditions:
– A very intense typhoon will affect the locality.
– Very strong winds of more than 185 kph may be expected in at least 12 hours.
Impact of the winds:
– Coconut plantations may suffer extensive damage.
– Many large trees may be uprooted.
– Rice and corn plantation may suffer severe damage.
– Most residential and institutional buildings of mixed construction may be severely damaged.
– Electric power distribution and communication services may be disrupted.
– Damage to affected communities can be very heavy.
Precautionary Measures:
– Cancel all travel and other outdoor activities.
General Note:
– The situation is potentially very destructive to the community. EVACUATION TO SAFER
SHELTERS SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE DURING PSS NO. 3 NOT NOW. IT IS TOO LATE TO
EVACUATE NOW!
– Disaster coordinating councils concerned and other disaster response organizations must respond to
emergencies.

25
Chapter 3: Cooking Out

Whether on a hike or in camp, people know a Senior Scout from a non-Scout by the kind and nature of
fires that he builds and the kind of food that he cooks and serves.

FIRE

To primitive hunters and trappers, fire is a welcome sight in camp, after a long day’s work. One sees
movies of adventure where fishermen and outdoorsmen sat down around a cooking fire or a campfire
and tell stories of glory while meat or fish is being roasted on the fire.
A true Senior Scout knows that the kind of fire he builds must suit the purpose for building it, the fire
material available in the locality, and the terrain of the land.

Generally, fires can be classified into the following:

1. Hunter's Fire – is suitable in windy areas where cooking has to be done. Two large hardwood logs
about 10-15 centimeters in diameter and a meter long, preferably green or wet wood, is laid side by
side about 30 centimeters apart at one end and 15 centimeters at the other end. A layer of small dry
sticks is placed across the middle of the logs and tinder is placed on top. Around the dry tinder, a criss-
cross of small splits or fuzz sticks forming a square is built.
The square is filled with kindling and tinder and is lighted on top. The upper layers soon burn through
and the embers drop down between the logs. Larger split wood is gradually added.
When cooking is finished, larger nightwood is piled between the large logs.
2. Reflector Fire – is excellent during cold nights. A reflector of mud-chinked green logs or a wall of

26
non-explosive rocks, or a natural cliff face or embankment is used as the fire reflector. The fire is built
between you and the reflector for cooking. Afterwards, a bed of coals created by the cooking can serve
as an all-night heater.
3. Star Fire – is often used when wood is scarce in the area. Long dry downwood and saplings are
gathered and laid in a wheel-spoke pattern, with ends placed on top of each other. In and around the
center, a small hot fire is built. The fire is “stoked” by sliding the long spokes of wood into the center
flame. Additional spokes of wood are added as needed.
4. Trench Fire – is built by digging a small trench on the ground downwind. Fire is built in the trench
for cooking and green wood (or metal) grilles are placed across the trench to hold pots and kettles.
5. Stone Range Fire – is a substitute for home stoves when you are in areas where flat stones are
available. Stone range is built around the fire area to shield the fire.
6. Council Fire – so-called because it is more of a campfire than a cooking fire. Large dry logs are
crisscrossed in a one-meter square area (approximately 3 feet square) and the logs getting smaller and
smaller until small twigs are on top.

Tinder is placed inside the square on the ground and lit. As the flames leap upwards, the wood above is
gradually heated and sparks into flames until finally the wood on top starts burning.
An alternative method which will last for 2 or more hours is to build the fire on top of the altar rather
than below. As the embers fall, they fall on the sticks criss-crossed on the next layer and causes the
sticks to burn, and so on. In this way, the fire gradually burns downwards layer by layer.

FIREWOOD
The type of wood you use will determine how fast you can start a fire and how long it will last.
Woods are normally classified either as hardwood or softwood in the Philippines. Most wood will burn
assuming it is dry. Never cut green limbs off a tree for firewood. Aside from the fact that it is difficult
27
to ignite a green wood and will only give off plenty of smoke, it is a violation under out present
environmental laws. Collect and study various types of woods to determine which one is suitable for
firewood.
If you can easily break a twig into two with your bare hands, it is softwood. It will easily catch fire and
will also burn faster than hardwood. If you have to use an axe to split wood, then chances are the wood
comes from a hardwood tree.
Ipil-ipil and the Madre Cacao or Kakawati trees are good materials in making charcoal. They abound
in the Philippines and grow wild in the forests.

BUILDING A FIRE
Clear the forest ground of debris such as dead twigs, dried leaves, and stones. Do not build a fire near
an old tree stump or a living tree. If the ground is wet, build a platform of flat stones or tree bark. The
fire should be downwind of your camp (wind should blow smoke away from the camp).
The Pyramid fire-building technique is the most popular method of starting a fire. Place the kindling in
the center of your cleared spot in the shape of a small pyramid. Use whittling sticks as kindling. A fuzz
stick can be made by whittling the sides of the wood to make rugged flare-out from the split wood.
Fire Building with Matches
A veteran backwoodsman can start a fire using not more than two match sticks. Crouch by the wood
with your back to the wind. Strike a match and let it burn into a real flame, cupping your hands around
it for protection. Apply it close to your tinder (shavings made from dry wood and placed around the

kindlings).

After lighting the kindling, let it burn a moment, then slowly feed the fire with smaller, then gradually
larger, pieces of firesticks. Continue feeding slowly until it has reached the fire size you want. Always
bear in mind that a flame burns upward and away from the wind and needs lots of air.
The following tips may help you in fire-building:
1. Use the driest and softest tinder available to start a fire (either paper, wood shavings, etc.).
2. Select a dry sheltered spot for your fireplace.
28
 3. Have a supply of kindling ready before you light the fire.
4. Have heavier wood available nearby for fire feeding.
5. Always start with a tiny fire and build from it.
6. Fire needs air. Too much fuel suffocates it.
7. Fire climbs. Add fuel from the top.
8. Fire burns downwind. Add fuel on the side away from the wind.

The ability to start a fire with materials available at hand is a very important skills in a survival
situation. Among the techniques of making fire being taught in survival schools is the fireboard and
drill. The fireboard and drill apparatus utilizes the same principle being employed in the bamboo
apparatus used by the tribal minorities in the Philippines – they produce heat through friction. The
fireboard and drill apparatus has been in used by Australian aborigines for thousand of years, to
understand how they work let us examine each part closely.
Fireboard and drill parts:
a. The bearing or the handhold
b. Drill or spindle
c. Fireboard
d. Bow and cordage
The bearing or the handhold
The handhold is the part of the apparatus that pushes that spindle against the fireboard in upright
position. It is held by the hand and protects it from friction, it is formed from the thick branch of a tree
by scrapping or curving the top and bottom portion until it is flat like a lumber, care should be taken in
cutting it to size, it must fit the hand snugly and not to become so small as to allow the fingers to wrap
around it. Once cut to size, curve a small depression underneath.

29
The drill or spindle
The drill or spindle is the part of the apparatus that spins to and pro between the fireboard and the
handhold. It is the easiest part to make, it is formed by cutting a small branch of a tree and scrapping it
on all sides until it is perfectly cylindrical. The most suitable size for spindle is between 6 to 8 inches
long and about 3/4 in diameter, in selecting the wood choose one that is straight and free of knuckle for
easy curving.
The fireboard
The fireboard is the base of the whole apparatus, it is the part Where the fire is ignited. The fireboard
should be at least twice as wide as the spindle, it is formed by cutting the thickest end of ‘the branch
and curving it flat at the top and bottom until it resembles a piece of lumber. A few inches from one end
of the fireboard and directly in the middle of the board carve a depression for the spindle.
Bow and cordage
The is the another part of the apparatus held by your other hand, it is made from a sturdy sapling and it
is tied on both ends by a cordage. The cordage on the other hand can be made from any material that
happens to be available, shoelace, fiber from your clothing, fiber from the inner bark of a tree etc.

To operate the apparatus

Now that we are familiar with the parts, let us now learn how to use it. As mentioned before, the
apparatus operates by producing heat through friction. This is accomplished in the same way fire is
made. First place the fireboard firmly on the ground, secure the board firmly by putting your feet
across, care should be taken to avoid moisture from seeping into the fireboard by placing dry leaves,
bark or rocks between the fireboard and the ground. To ensure smooth operation, lubricate the moving
parts between the handhold and spindle by applying only substances, such as the sap from a trees or the
natural oil around your nose. (improvise) now wrap the cordage around the spindle onto the bow. (see
illustration on the next page) hold the spindle on the bow with your right hand and the handhold in your
left. The bottom end of the spindle is placed in the cut depression of the fireboard and the top end is
held in the cut depression of the handhold. The left hand and handhold are braced tight against the shin,
so the drill is perpendicular to the fireboard. The bow should be on the outside of the spindle, away
from the left shin, and the end of the bow should be grasped firmly in the right hand. (study the
30
illustration carefully and hold the exact same position.)
Pressing down slightly with left hand, draw the bow back and forth across the apparatus in a sawing
motion, which also causes the spindle to spin back and forth. The speed and downward pressure are
increased until the handhold and the fire board begins to smoke.
To burn in
The last piece of the puzzle to “burn in” a bow-drill is a tinder. Tinder is made from plant fibers that
can be broken up and buffed into one fibrous ball. The inner bark of many trees and plants or some
grasses can be a source of good tinder. Some plants will fiber up better when pounded with sticks or
stone. The set up is exactly the same, the tinder is placed directly under the notch, again the spindle is
spun in the fireboard until there is plenty of smoke.

TRAIL FOODS
For hiking or for camp, think nutrition and economy when buying food. When looking for food to be
brought during a hike, keep an eye for lightweight, less bulky food but of good quality. Anything
needing refrigeration is not suitable as a trail food.
Find out what your local store or supermarket is offering as possible trail food. You will find in your
favorite store a surprisingly large number of “instant,” that is, food which can be cooked and prepared
in 10 minutes or less. There are naturally dry foods, dried foods and fruits, dehydrated foods (all water
removed before packing), and concentrated foods and drinks (some of the water removed). There are
also canned foods or processed foods like instant mami noodles, instant milk or chocolate.
Keep in mind a balanced food diet when preparing your menus. Whether on a hike or in camp. To help
you in menu planning with your Crew or Outfit, here are suggestions listed by food groups:
A. Meat Group – dehydrated eggs; dried or canned fish; concentrated or canned fish or clam
chowders; dried shrimps; canned oysters; canned corned beef stew; canned roast beef; dried beef or
pork; canned luncheon meat; dried mushroom; dehydrated bouillon; peanut butter; and others. Check,
however, the labels on all canned foods, since some may contain large amount of nitrates. Nitrates are
not good for the body.
B. Milk Group – Dried or evaporated whole milk; dehydrated skimmed milk; dry cheese, and others.

31
C. Vegetables and Fruits Group – Dried or canned whole-kernel corn; dried peppers; canned pickles;
canned onions; dehydrated chopped onions; canned peas; canned green peas; canned or dehydrated
soups; dried mangoes, prunes, raisins; canned fruit jams; concentrated dehydrated, or canned fruit
drinks, concentrated fruit juices; dried durian; dried or canned strawberries; and others.
D. Cereal and Bread Group – dry oatmeal, cornmeal, white rice, brown rice; dry macaronis,
spaghetti; dry egg noodles; canned or dried chow mein noodles (mami); dry flour; dry pancake,
biscuits, cake mixes; dry cookies; and others.
E. Fats, Sweets, and Other Groups – canned butter, margarine; cubed sugar; granulated brown sugar,
packed com syrup; concentrated chocolates; repacked jellies; table salt, and others.

In planning camp menus, remember that each growing Scout needs these daily:
1. Meat Group – 2 or more servings of meat, eggs, poultry, fish, soup, dry beans, peanut butter,
or cheese
2. Vegetable Group – 4 or more servings of fruits and dark green or yellow vegetables.
3. Milk Group – 4 or more cups of fluid.
4. Bread/Cereal Group – 4 or more servings of whole- grained or enriched breads, cereals,
macaroni, pasta, rice, or corn.
Several Scout handbooks and Filipino menu books carry very appetizing recipe for camp meals. In the
market are now sold “instant” flavors such as chicken, sampalok (tamarind), etc – all packed in airtight
foils which can make camping truly enjoyable and healthful.

FRESH FOOD IN CAMP

On the other hand, you can try your hand at cooking fresh food and serving them to your Crew. If your
camp is accessible to a wet market or a public market, you can purchase fresh meat (pork or beef),
vegetables, fish, and fruits and bring them to camp for the traditional native delicacies.
If you have available standard pots and pans in camp, you can try cooking sinigang, potsero, fried fish,
escabeche, nilaga, or prepare fresh salads and fruits.
Or, you can try a bit of “primitive cooking” without using standard kitchen utensils. Primitive men had
32
only two ways of cooking meat or fish – boiled or broiled. You can experiment with broiled meat on a
stick (known in Scouting as kabob, but is locally referred to as barbecue, or cooking rice in a
handkerchief, broiled fish on a stick, or simply kilawin (raw, cooked in vinegar), meat, vegetables, or
fish. As you advance in Scouting, you can be more and more advanced in your cooking style. Advanced
here means going from canned and preserved food to primitive cooking to equip you with some
survival skills, including living off the land.
So try your hand in cooking for your Crew or Outfit. Several cookbooks are in the market for you to
read and use.
The following are some sample recipes that you can cook in camp. But before trying it out with your
Crew, practice first at home. Observe, ask, and help your mother as she prepares food for the family.

SAMPLE RECIPES

FRIED FISH FILLET

Ingredients:
Fish Fillet – 1&1/2 kilos
Salt – 5 tsp
Pepper powder – 1 tsp
Flour – 2 cups
Eggs (slightly beaten) – 6 pcs.
Oil – 2&3/4 cups
Mayonnaise – 1 cup
Procedure:
1. Sprinkle fillet of fish with salt and pepper. Let stand for 3 minutes.
2. Add 4 tsps. of salt to slightly beaten egg.
3. Heat cooking oil in a frying pan or sauce pan.
4. Roll fillet with flour and egg.
5. Dip on hot oil the coated fish fillet, one by one.
6. Fry until golden brown.
7. Serve hot using mayonnaise for dipping.
CHICKEN NILAGA
Ingredients:
Chicken, whole (cut into 10 pcs.) – 1 kilo
Onions, sliced (medium size) – 2 pcs.
Cabbage, quartered – 1/2 kilo
Potatoes, quartered – 1/4 kilo
Pepper, corn – 1 tsp
Patis – 4 Tbsp
Salt – 1 tsp
Chicken cubes – 3 pcs.
Rice water – 12 cups

33
Procedure:
1. Cut the chicken into ten serving pieces.
2. Boil water stock washing with onion, potatoes and chicken cubes.
3. Add meat. Season with salt and cook until tender.
4. Add potatoes and cabbage and cook for 5 minutes more.
5. Season with patis.

BUTTERED VEGETABLES
Ingredients:
Carrots – 1/4 kilo
Margarine – 1/4 cup
Green beans (Habichuelas) – 1/4 kilo
Procedure:
1. Wash all vegetables separately.
2. Remove strings of the green beans.
3. Boil the carrots with its skin in two cups of water until tender, then add the green beans in the
boiling water and let it cook for 2 minutes.
4. Remove carrots and string beans from the liquid.
5. Peel and cut carrots into cubes.
6. Place in platter cubed carrots and green beans and pour melted butter on it.
7. Serve while hot.

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Chapter 4: Communications

You communicate with other people everyday. You communicate with your family members, with your
friends and neighbors, with your fellow Senior Scouts, with government officials, and with adult
leaders. The better you communicate with others, the better is their impression about you. Thus, it is
essential to master the art of communication.
The word “communication” came from the Latin root word “communis,” meaning something that is
common to a group. Communication, therefore, is your ability to establish a common understanding
about something between you and others.

Behind these descriptive phrases, what seems to capture the essence of communication?
Communication is effective to the extent that the meaning is created. goals are achieved, and humans
become satisfied as much as possible.
– Communication is the creation of meaning through the use of signals and symbols.
– Communication is not a static phenomenon. It is ongoing and continuous, so we view it as a
process. It refers to a way of perceiving and responding to the world in which we live.

35
To understands communication, for it is always dynamic - variables and actions interplay fueled by
human energy and force – and at the core is MEANING. We are part of this process; we are caught up
in it; on our success, satisfaction, and growth depend to a great extent on how we function within it.

WHAT IS MEANING
When we speak of communication as a process for the creation of meaning, we view meaning as a
RECOGNATION OF RELATIONSHIP; it is the perception the takes place when we capture the
relationship between two statements or images. In order to understand or create such a relationship
each person must draw upon his or her own frame-of-reference those feelings, attitudes, beliefs, and
values that are part of each individual’s understanding of self and social environment. Signal and
symbols are assigned meaning by those who send and receive messages in any interaction.
When persons are able to communicate through the creation of meaning, they construct reality
symbolically assigning signals, symbols and images.
Signal and Symbols
The construction of reality takes place within us because of the ways we engage in information
processing.
For instance, when we decide to communicate, we sort, select, and send signals or symbols as messages
which EVOKE SOME MEANING in us and eventually to another person. The other person in turn,
creates within herself or himself a response to these signals and symbols perceived.
Sorting and selecting symbols can be both conscious and unconscious for the communication. Signals
and symbols provide the components of any message. By signals, we mean the messages “which the
communicator feels are beaming from a source and they suggest a very limited but concise meaning.”
Symbols suggest broader and more complex meanings assigned to the verbal and non-verbal language
of communication.
The business world is filled with verbal and non-verbal symbols which appear as corporate logos, e.g.
Wendy’s Hamburger International, Levi's, Armco Inc., Prudential, Coca-Cola, Bank of Tokyo,
Mitsubishi, Hyundai, etc.
Communication is Transaction
The process of human communication, whether verbal or non-verbal, is transactional. When we speak
of process communication, we know we are not speaking of a series of static entities.
As communicators, we “put together” what we think, feel, imagine into a word. In this process, the
“Other” becomes part of us, and his or her messages are really what we create from signals and
symbols, thus we have not just transmission in communication but transaction.
The transactional nature of communication is more than communicators constructing each other and
the messages for meaning; it is also like business. Gerald Philips and Nancy Metzger speak of the
communication transactions which may result from interaction. They see transaction as being involved
with the individual goal-seeking in both private or public behavior. In a word, transaction is a question,
“for the satisfaction of a very personal wants.” As we work using communication as instrumental for
the achievement of success or satisfaction, we do our own sense-making, and we make claims about
what we think is or is not or might be or could be or should be; we set up for ourselves what we see,
36
hear, touch, taste and smell. We string words together into what seems to be a logical and meaningful
order; and when we do this with other persons, we do so to satisfy a need, a desire – in a word, a goal.
And because there is intent on the part of the communication, as well as some sort of relationship, no
matter how fleeting, there is transaction.
Seven Basic Elements of Communication
1. The intentions, ideas and feelings of the sender and the way he decides to behave, all of which lead
to his sending a message that carries the same content.
2. The encoding of the message by the sender – he translates his ideas, feelings and intentions into a
message appropriate for sending.
3. Sending the message to the receiver.
4. The channel through which the message is translated.
5. The decoding of the message by the receiver. The receiver’s interpretation depends on how well the
receiver understands the content of the message and the intentions of the sender.
6. An internal response by the receiver to this interpretation of the message.
7. The amount of noise in the above steps. Noise is any element that interrupts with communication
process. It can be physical or psychological. In the sender, noise refers to such things as attitudes,
prejudices, frame of reference of the sender, and the appropriateness of his language of other
expressions of the message. In the receiver, the noise includes his attitudes, background, experience
that affect the decoding process. In the channel, noise refers to:
a. environmental sounds such as static or traffic;
b. speech problem;
c. annoying or destructing mechanisms such as tendency to mumble.
To a large extent, the success of communication is determined by the degree to which noise is
overcome or controlled.
There are many ways of communicating with others. In the towns and cities you communicate by letter,
by telephone, by radio, by telegram, or even fax machine. In the out-of-doors when these modern
conveniences are absent, you can communicate by sight (using flags), by light (using heliograph), or by
sound (using morse code/whistle). There are also special ways of communicating with special groups
of people like the blind and the deaf. Let us look at each one of them.

COMMUNICATION IN THE URBAN AREAS

Talking to somebody when he /she is not in front of you requires some skills. Remember, you are
interested in making sure that the other party will completely understand the meaning of what you want
to say.
Communicating By Letter
As a Scout, you should always write letters in a friendly tone. Always address the other person by using
the word “Dear,” such as “Dear Brian,” or “Dear Auntie Sally.” If you are writing in a formal way to a
person whom you are not so familiar with, say “Dear Mr. Francia” or “Dear Miss Fuentes.”

37
There are very specific ways of saluting persons of superior rank than you in a letter, especially
dignitaries. The following will guide you in knowing how to address other people in a business letter:
1. To a religious person:
His Eminence
Jaime Cardinal Sin
Archbishop of Manila
Intramuros, Manila
Your Eminence:
2. To the President of the Philippines:
The President of the Philippines
Malacañang Palace
Manila
Dear Mr. President:
3. To the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court:
The Chief Justice of the Supreme Court
Padre Faura, Manila
Sir:
4. To a Department Secretary:
The Honorable Secretary
Department of National Defense
Camp Emilio Aguinaldo
EDSA, Quezon City

Sir:
Equally important is the contents of your letter. If you are writing a friendly letter, spice it with some
words of encouragement, of concern, and of support for his or her good plans. If you are writing a
business letter, go direct to the point in a very courteous manner. Then close it with a statement of
thanks or appreciation for his reading your letter.
In closing your letter, use acceptable phrases such as, “Best regards,” “Good wishes,” “Your friend.”
and similar endearments. In business letters, you may use “Sincerely yours,” “Very truly yours,” or
“Very sincerely.” Then sign it.
Business letter writing requires typing it either with all paragraphs aligned at the left (formal form), or
the date and the complimentary ending plus signature at the right-hand side of the letter (semi-formal).
Put your letter in a letter envelope. On the outside portion, place your name and address on the upper
left-hand corner (so that the postman can return the letter to you in case your letter cannot reach the
right party), and the addressee’s name and address at the center of the envelope. The postage stamp is
ALWAYS placed at the upper right-hand corner of the envelope, right side up.

38
Communicating by Telephone
When calling another person within the town limits, always have the telephone number ready beside
you plus paper and a pen in case you have to write something as you are phoning.
Then dial the number and wait for the party to answer. In case somebody other than the right person
answers the phone, say “Good morning (afternoon, or evening), Sir. This is _____. May I speak with
my friend...” When the right party answers, talk to him or her briefly (not more than 10 minutes) in a
courteous manner (as if he or she is right in front of you), then say “Thank you” or “Good day,” and
hang up.
It is bad manners to stay on the phone with one person longer than 10 minutes (unless you are giving or
receiving long instructions). You must be considerate of other people’s time. Besides, other persons
may also want to use the telephone. “Tele-babad” style of telephone conversation is not Scout-like.
Consider your timing when you call. Do not call too early in the day or too late at night or at mealtime.
When calling long distance, you can use several methods depending on your telephone facilities. If
your city or town has direct-dialing capability, simply dial the telephone area code number, followed by
the telephone number you are calling.
If your telephone system has no direct dialing system, you will have to go through the long-distance
telephone operator. Lift the phone, dial 109 (for domestic call) or 108 (for overseas call), and when the
operator answers, give the place you want to call to, the telephone number, the person you want to
speak to, your full name, and the telephone number you are using IN THAT ORDER.
If you are going to charge your call to the person you are calling, tell the operator you are calling
“COLLECT” to the person's number.
Since long-distance calls are expensive, go straight to the point in your message, after the usual hellos.
Remember you are paying per minute plus the telephone charges, so be very brief. Don’t argue over the
telephone. It is not only expensive; it is also impolite.
Communicating by Cellular Phones
Cellular phones are wireless and battery-operated phones. It has a multi-faceted feature. It is licensed to
operate a nationwide Cellular Mobile Telephone System (CMTS) and International Gateway Facility
39
(IGF), paging network and local exchange (LEC) operations and has a Personal Communications
Services (PCS) license. World-class firms provide technical and financial support all over the world. It
is committed to bring the benefits of world class telecommunication services and technology to support
the country’s quest for development.
Some of its Features:
• Personalized welcome Message
- Allows you to key-in a-personalized message that displays whenever you turn on your phone.
- Excellent visibility. Enhanced Alphanumeric dot matrix display show upper and lower case
characters, while color indicator show operating status at a glance.
- Meters indicate the strength of the cellular signal, remaining battery charge and earpiece and
ringer volumes.
• Talk Time
- Continuous talk time for ____ minutes without having to recharge it and with ___ hours
standby time.
•High Security
- PIN-code protection, call restrictions, and a keypad lock to prevent accidental pressing of keys
when phone is not in use.
- Automatic redial. Press one button and phone attempts to complete a system-busy call for 4
minutes after the first try.
- Call-in-absence indicator. Tells you a call was received while you were away from your
phone.
- Monitor expenses. 5 call timers let you track airtime usage.
- Greater control. 7 levels of call restrictions to limit phone usage and increase security of phone
numbers.
- No unauthorized phone calls. Easy-to-program electronic lock code limits access and
discourages thefts.
- Auto answer. After two rings the phone automatically answer.
• User Friendly
- View, select or clear features from a user-friendly menu mode.
- Data Capability. Use your phone to send or receive faxes, download from a laptop computer,
or transmit from a monitoring device.
Some of its Network Features:
- Faster, reliable connections
- Nationwide Coverage
- PIN Authentication Security
- Value-added Features such as:
- Teleconferencing
- Call Forwarding
- Transfer When No Answer
- Busy Transfer
- Call Waiting

40
Communicating by Phones using Phone Cards
In the Philippines and all over the world there are different kinds of Public Phones that would cater to
the needs of the public. To use these kind of phones you need a Phone Card. Phone Cards can be find
elsewhere, in groceries and even in your neighborhood. They are sold in P100, 300, 500 and even in
1000. It has a determined limit of minutes.
A Phone Card is used by inserting this card as instructed in the Phone booth where you will make your
call. Phone Cards are easy to handle especially when you have no purse to drop.

Communicating by Internet (International Networking)

A group of Local Area Networks (LANs) that have been connected by means of a common
communications protocol. Note the small “i” – many internets exist besides the Internet, including
many TCP/IP based networks that are not linked to the Internet (the Defense Data Network is a case in
point).
A system of linked computer networks, worldwide in scope, that facilitates data communication
services such as remote logins, file transfer, electronic mail, and newsgroups. The Internet is a way of
connecting existing computer networks that greatly extends the reach of each participating system. It
enables universities, governments, businesses and consumers to share files, post notices, and converse
via computers, modems and phone lines.
WHERE DID IT COME FROM? The Internet – the first packet-switching network was born 25 years
ago as an experimental system, funded by the U.S. Department of Defense's Advanced Research
Projects Agency. In the network's earliest days, only computer scientists at a handful of research
institutions across the country were given access. As the Net grew, its population broadened to include
scientists from other disciplines. Eventually universities came to realize the power of file-sharing, and
the Net became the communications medium for the worldwide academic community. Only in the last
several years did large numbers of consumers without technical or academic backgrounds begin to
homestead on the Net.
WHO RUNS THE INTERNET? Nobody – or everybody, depending on how you look at it. Schools,
governments, individuals and businesses own the hardware and the files at their particular site. The big
data- pipes (backbones) that connect the sites are owned by a patchwork of several hundred
telecommunications companies, government agencies and universities. There is no central governing
body, although there are organizations dedicated to making sure the Net runs smoothly. The Internet
Society is the body that sets the standards. The Virginia-based Internet Network Information Center or
InterNIC acts as registry and clearinghouse for addresses and the like.
WHO USES IT? Academics collaborating on technical papers, high school kids playing elaborates on-
line games, families trading e-mail letters or baby photos across continents and the White House press
office delivering the Presidents latest policy speech – those are just a few examples. To nobody’s great
surprise, Internet usage correlates closely with high education and income levels. The widely held
assumption is that whites and Asians are disproportionately over-represented on the Net.
(There here are no mechanisms so far to test this hypothesis on any sample large enough to be
meaningful) A recent MIT census of Usenet (one of the most dynamic forums on the Net) found the
average reader to be 30.7 years old. Men made up 86.5 percent of that sample.
41
WHAT'S OUT THERE FOR ME? Electronic mail (e-mail) access to millions of your close friends,
thousands of e-mail-based lists that function like electronic magazines, more than 12,000 forums
(“newsgroups”) devoted to every topic from Spam to semiconductor design, library files stored at just
about every major university in the Western world, live conferences and great seas of government data
from weather maps and earthquakes information to photos from the Hubble telescope.
HOW DO ALL THOSE COMPUTERS TALKTO EACH OTHER? The Internet uses a set of standards
called TCP/IP. They let different types of machines on different types of networks share information
transmitted through a process called packet switching. Now, you could move a file from Computer A to
Computer B by stringing a permanent phone line between the two. But that would be impractical and
expensive. With packet switching technology, the file is broken up into small packets, which are
individually addressed and routed from stop to stop along the network before being re-assembled at
their final destination. It is like mailing a pack of playing cards from San Jose to Miami – in 52
envelopes. Other systems do roughly the same thing, but all the computers that are technically “on the
Internet” use TCP/IP.
THE MODEM. The modem is the device that sends and receives all those 1s and 0s that make up
digital communications. It can be internal – fitting into a slot inside your computer – or external.
External modems are easier to set up and can be used with more than one machine, but they tend to
cost a bit more.
You also need software for communications. Internet-specific software abounds. But you can also get
on the Net with basic communications software if you use a dial-up provider.
WHAT'S THE EASIEST WAY TO SEE THE INTERNET? With a set of software tools that hides all
the arcane stuff behind a pretty point-and-click window called Graphical User Interface or GUI. There
are many all-in-one net-surfing packages on the market and plenty of ways to configure your own set
from shareware that's readily available on-line. The sets of tools – or suites – often include a powerful
tool called a web browser that can seamlessly access all the resources on the World Wide Web. (Mosaic
is a popular web-browser; several versions are free to anyone who cares to download them. Many
commercial packages modeled on Mosaic are now hitting the market)
WHAT IS THE WORLD WIDE WEB? A seamlessly interconnected set of several thousand sites that
all share a format called hypertext markup language. The Web, which is growing at 15 percent per
month, is the hottest frontier on the Net because it’s extremely powerful, flexible and easy to use. The
beauty of the web lies in the way documents (which can be sounds, photos or next) are directly linked
to each other. Say you're building a Web site for screenwriters and wannabe screenwriters. In addition
to your own resources, you might want to include links in your documents that take your visitors
directly to other far-flung Web sites that feature theater or film files.

42
Communicating by Voice-Radio
Communicating by voice-radio is much the same style as conversing by telephone, except that if the
radio set has an on-off toggle switch, you have to say “over” and release the hand switch before you
can hear the reply on the other end of the line. Also, you must wait for the other party to say “over”
before you answer.
If you are using the voice-radio handset of another person, he can give you instructions on how to
operate it. If the handset is yours, there are printed instructions that accompany the ownership.

INTERNATIONAL 10 CODES
10-0 CAUTION / SAFE TRACKING
10-1 WEAK / DISTORTED COPY / POOR SIGNAL
10-2 SIGNAL IS GOOD
10-3 SLOW DOWN! SLOWLY
10-4 POSITIVE / OK / ROGER / ACKNOWLEDGE
10-5 RELAY MESSAGE / ADVISE / NOTIFY
10-6 BUSY / STAND-BY UNLESS URGENT
10-7 SIGN-OFF / LEAVING AIR
10-8 MONITOR
10-9 REPEAT MESSAGE
10-10 TRANSMlSSlON COMPLETED / OVER AND OUT
10-11 INQUIRY / ASK
10-12 STAND BY / WAIT
10-13 ADVISE ROAD AND WEATHER CONDITION
10-14 AVAIL / TO PICK-UP / PRODUCE / GET / BUY
10-15 RESPONSE / ANSWER / FEEDBACK
10-16 PROBLEM / TROUBLE
10-17 REQUEST / PLEASE
10-18 RECORD / LOG / LIST
10-19 TAKE IT BACK / RETURN / COME BACK / GO BACK
10-20 LOCATION
10-21 TELEPHONE CALL
10-22 DISREGARD / IGNORE / AVOID / CANCEL
10-23 REACH DESTINATION / TOUCH DOWN

43
10-24 FOLLOW UP / MAKE A REPORT
10-25 MEETING / APPOINTMENT / REPORT IN PERSON
10-26 VICTIM
10-27 CHANGE FREQUENCY / CHANGE CHANNEL
10-28 PLATE NUMBER
10-29 CHECK / VERIFY/ RECORD
10-30 WATER SUPPLY
10-31 APPROVAL / RESULT
10-32 ARMED MEN
10-33 EMERGENCY
CODE: 1 LIFE AND DEATH SITUATION
CODE: 2 HELP AS SOON AS POSSIBLE
CODE: 3 HELP NOT IMMEDIATE
10-34 RIOT / CRIME IN PROGRESS
10-35 RED ALERT / CRIME ALERT
10-36 EXACTTIME
10-37 FOOD RELOAD AND FUEL REFILL
10-38 POLICE / MILITARY
10-39 RUSH / DOUBLE TIME
10-40 ROVING / SILENT TOUR OF DUTY
CODE: 1 MONITOR EVERY 5 MINUTES
CODE: 2 MONITOR EVERY 15 MINUTES
10-41 MEMBERS / OPERATIVES
10-42 DISENGAGING / ENDING TOUR OF DUTY
10-43 INFORMATION / NEWS / STATUS
10-44 GREETINGS / REGARDS
10-45 MOBILE / VEHICLE
10-46 ASSIST MOTORIST
10-47 ELECTRICIAN / EMERGENCY ELECTRIC POWER
10-48 ROAD REPAIR/ EXCAVATION
10-49 TRAFFIC SITUATION
10-50 ACCIDENT

44
10-51 WRECKER
10-52 AMBULANCE
10-53 HEAVY TRAFFIC / ROAD BLOCK
10-54 INVESTIGATOR
10-55 ELECTRICITY
10-56 DRUNK PERSON / INTOXICATED PERSON
10-57 HIT AND RUN
10-58 DIRECT TRAFFIC
10-59 GOOD BUDDY
10-60 HOSPITAL
10-61 MEDICALTEAM
10-62 MEDICINE
10-63 MISSION ACCOMPLISHED / ASSIGNMENT FINISHED
10-64 MESSAGE TRAFFIC
10-65 ASSIGNMENT
10-66 NEEDED / NECESSARY
10-67 SALESPERSON
10-68 DISPATCH
10-69 RECEIVED MESSAGE
10-70 FIRE ALARM
10-71 NATURE AND SIZE OF FIRE
10-72 RALLY DEMONSTRATION
10-73 FIRE TRUCK
10-74 NEGATIVE
10-75 PERMISSION TO CONTACT
10-76 ENGAGING
10-77 ESTIMATE TIME OF ARRIVAL / E.T.A.
10-78 ASSISTANCE
10-79 DEAD PERSON
10-80 KIDNAP
10-81 STOLEN VEHICLE / CARNAP
10-82 RESERVATION PREPARE

45
10-83 FOUND VEHICLE
10-84 ESTIMATE TIME OF DEPARTURE /E.T.D.
10-85 LATE / WILL BE LATE
10-86 MISSING PERSON
10-87 FEMALE PERSON
10-88 TELEPHONE NUMBER
10-89 FOUND PERSON
10-90 THEFT / ROBBERY
10-91 UNNECESSARY LONG MODULATION
10-92 ANTI-NARCOTICS
10-93 ADDRESS
10-94 DRAG RACING
10-95 OPERATIONS
10-96 JAMMER / UNWANTED PERSON
10-97 RADIO CHECK
10-98 CALL SIGN / HANDLE
10-99 HOME
10-100 OFFICE / PLACE OF WORK
10-101 STATEMENT OF ACCOUNT
10-102 COLLECTOR / TREASURER
10-103 MONEY / CASHICHECK
10-104 CHANGE FREQUENCY / CHANGE CHANNEL
10-105 MECHANIC
10-106 MODULATION
10-107 ANTENNA
10-108 RADIO / DRIVER'S LICENSE
10-109 ATTIRE
10-110 EQUIPMENT
10-111 PORTABLE
10-112 MOBILE / BASE RADIO
10-113 BOOSTER AMPLIFIER
10-114 POWER SUPPLY

46
10-115 BATTERY
10-116 REPEATER / PHONE PATCH
10-117 COMPUTER
10-118 ROTATOR
10-119 COAXIAL/COAX CABLE
10-120 STAB WOUND / GUNSHOT WOUND
10-121 HEARTATTACK
10-122 STROKE
10-123 ORTHOPEDIC EMERGENCY
10-124 O.B. EMERGENCY
10-125 HYPERTENSIVE EMERGENCY
10-126 IN-PATIENT
10-127 OUT-PATIENT
10-128 OPERATOR
10-129 SON / DAUGHTER
10-130 SECRETARY
10-131 RELATIVE / EMPLOYEE
10-132 DRIVER
10-133 WIFE
10-134 NATIONAL OFFICER
10-135 REGIONAL OFFICER
10-136 RADIO LAW AND REGULATIONS GROUP /N.T.C.
10-137 NATIONAL CLEARANCE
10-138 POLICE CLEARANCE
10-139 NECESSARY PAPERS
10-140 ORGANIZATION'S l.D.
10-141 ORGANIZATION'S BASE

ADDITIONAL LOCAL 10-CODES

10-200 POLICE ASSISTANCE NEEDED
10-201 BOGEY (SUSPECT)
10-202 GAS STATION
10-203 FLAT TIRE
47
10-204 BEER
10-205 NEW RADIO USER / GREEN APPLE
10-206 MONEY
10-207 YOUNG LADY IN CAR
10-208 FATHER
10-209 MOTHER
10-210 SISTER
10-211 BROTHER
10-212 POLICEMAN
10-213 CAR
10-214 TELEPHONE
10-215 CALL BY PHONE
10-216 RUNWAY 1 / OSMENA HIGHWAY
10-217 RUNWAY2 / E.D.S.A.
10-218 MIX MASTER (MAGALLANES)
10-219 BIG CITY (MAKATI)
10-220 QUEEN CITY (QUEZON CITY)
10-221 CAPITALCITY (MANILA)
10-222 PARANAQUE
10-223 LAS PINAS
10-224 ALABANG
10-225 MANDALUYONG
10-226 GREENHILLS
10-227 PASIG
10-228 RUNWAY 3 – ROXAS BLVD.
10-229 RUNWAY 4 – NORTH EXPRESSWAY
10-230 PASAYCITY
10-231 COASTAL ROAD
10-234 RUNWAY5 – SOUTH EXPRESSWAY

PHONETICS ALPHABET CODES

A – ALPHA
B – BRAVO
48
 C – CHARLIE
D – DELTA
E – ECHO
F – FOXTROT
G – GOLF
H – HOTEL
I – INDIA
J –JULIET
K – KILO
L – LIMA
M – MIKE
N – NOVEMBER
O – OSCAR
P – PAPA
Q – QUEBEC
R – ROMEO
S – SIERRA
T – TANGO
U – UNIFORM
V – VICTOR
X – X-RAY
Y – YANKEE
Z – ZULU

Communicating by Telegram
There are some rules to follow when communicating by telegram. First, since you are paying by
number of words (not more than eleven letters equals one word; one number equals one word), you
should practice the art of sending your message in as few words as possible to convey what you wish to
convey. The arrangement of the words is also important.
Consider the following telegraphic message:
(Bad)
I AM INVITING YOU TO A BIRTHDAY PARTY ON SATURDAYJANUARY 27, 1992 AT
NERRY’S PLACE STARTING AT THREE O’CLOCK IN THE AFTERNOON (27 words)
(Better)
AM INVITING YOU TO BIRTHDAY PARTY SATURDAY 27 JANUARY NERRY’S PLACE
49
STARTING THREE O'CLOCK AFTERNOON (16 words)
(Preferred)
INVITING YOU BIRTHDAY PARTY SATURDAY 27 JANUARY NERRY'S PLACE THREE O’
CLOCK AFTERNOON (13 words)

When filing your telegram, ask the operator when the telegram is expected to arrive at its destination.
If you are to choose between communicating by telegram or by telephone, however, all other things
and costs being equal, choose the telephone. It is faster and you can get a reply immediately.
Communicating by Facsimile Machine
In highly urbanized cities and towns, you can send whole-page documents and letters through a
facsimile machine (also called a FAX machine) anywhere in the Philippines provided the other party
has also access to a FAX machine. It is relatively a simple process and your written message can be
received by the other party “as is”, and you only pay on a per-page rate.
You should consult the owner of the FAX machine you are going to use.

COMMUNICATING OUT-OF-DOORS
Senior Scouts are famous all over the world for being able to send and receive messages over distances
in the out-of-doors. The methods can be grouped according to purpose and situation. Over short
distances and within sight of the other party, messages can be sent and received by hand, by flag, or by
light. On longer distances, communication by sound is best. The Scouting term for this procedure is
signaling.
Scout Hand Signals
Hand signals are used by scouts to move the Crew or Outfit into formation or to do some activities
without sound.
The following hand signals are used in Outfit (or Crew) formations:
• Single Line, open ranks. Leader extends both arms sideways at shoulder level, palms open sideward.
The Outfit falls into one straight line about 5 paces from the Leader with the Crew Leaders centered in
front of their respective Crews.
• Single Line, close ranks. Leader extends both arms sideways at shoulder level, with palms closed. The
Outfit falls in one straight line about 5 paces from the Leader with the Crew Leaders to the right of
their respective Crews.
• U-Formation. Leader raises both hands at 45 degrees from his sides. The Outfit falls in a U-shape
formation with the Crew Leaders at the right of their respective Crews.
• Parade Formation, open rank. Leader holds both arms up at shoulder level, forearms vertical, palms
open. The Outfit line up in column, with the Crew Leaders centered in front of their respective Crews.
• Parade Formation, close rank. Leader holds both arms up, forearms vertical, palms closed. The Outfit
falls in line by column with the Crew Leaders at the right of their respective Crews.
• Relay Formation. Leader raises both arms straight forward in front of him. The Outfit take positions 5
50
paces from the Leader and two paces apart from each other. Their Scouts fall in behind them.
• Wheelspoke Formation. Leader raises right arm straight forward, palms down and fingers spread out
like the spokes of a wheel. The Crews line up five paces from the Leader imitating the wheelspokes
with the Leader as the center of the “wheel”. Crew Leaders are in front of their respective. Crews.
• Assembly. Leader rotates his right hand high above his hand in a wide circle. The Outfit assembles in
front of the Leader.
• Dismissal. Leader swings both arms-in front of him in a crossed position, then swings back. The
Outfit falls out of line.
The following hand signals are used in Outfit or Crew movement during activities involving the whole
Outfit or Crew.
• Move Forward. Leader raises his right arm high above his head and swings it forward to horizontal
position towards the direction of advance.
• Hurry Up. With fist closed, Leader moves his right forearm up and down vigorously.
• Halt. The Leader raises his right arm straight up.
• Spread out, take cover. Leader swings both arms straight forward, then moves them sideward to
shoulder level.
• Hit the Ground. Leader holds both hands out at shoulder level, palms downward, then brings palms
down parallel to the ground several times.
Sign Language for the Deaf
There are some people who either have difficulty hearing things or cannot hear at all because of their
disabilities yet can still communicate with one another. You can also communicate with them if you
know their sign language. Called the Manual Alphabet, these signs are used to spell out individual
words or names of persons or places. (See illustration)

51
 Outfit Formations

Deaf-Mute Sign Language

52
 Gesture Field Signals

Communicating with the Blind

A special alphabet is also used by blind persons throughout the world using the Braille system.
Invented in 1824 by a blind Frenchman named Louis Braille, this system uses raised dots for touch
reading and writing. It is based on an arrangement of six dots; each arrangement is called a braille cell.

BRAILLE SYSTEM

53
Code Signals
Two very important international code signals used all over the world are the Semaphore Code and the
International Morse Code (IMC).
Semaphore Code. This system uses two flags. Normally each flag is a square piece of red and white
cloth, about 40 centimeters square, with both red and white cloths sewn together, forming a red triangle
side by side with a white triangle.
Select a visual station that is in contrast with either the red or the white portion of the flag so that the
positions of the two flags in relation to the sender will be easily understood.

54
 Semaphore Code
Semaphore signals are used for ship-to-shore messages, and over long visible distances – from
lakeshore to lakeshore or from mountaintop to mountaintop. It is now, however, limited in use because
of the universal acceptance of the Morse Code which can be sent not only by flag, but even by sound or
light.
International Morse Code. The original Morse Code was invented by Samuel F. B. Morse in 1838
which he used as part of his telegraph invention. The International Morse Code (IMC) was devised in
1851.
If communication is to be sent by flag, the standard flag to be used consists of a square piece of 60-
centimeter red cloth with a white 30-centimeter square in its center. This is also known as the Wigwag
Flag. Since the (MC is composed of dots and dashes, the flag swung to the right of the sender denotes a
dot; to the left, it denotes a dash.

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 INTERNATIONAL MORSE CODE (IMC)

Sending a Message. In sending a message by Wigwag flag, the first position of the flag is vertical.
Then the dots and dashes are sent, with interval between letters indicated by facing the flag again in a
vertical position for about 5 seconds per letter. To indicate the end of a word or sentence, make an open
“front” by dipping the wigwag flag down vertically in front of you.
Strive for accuracy rather than speed. When the wigwag fouls or “buckles” on the staff, this can be
avoided by moving the tip of the staff some 10 centimeters towards the wind whenever the direction of
the motion is reversed like a figure-of-eight. This prevents the flag from buckling around the staff.

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Using the Wigwag Flag. When you finish sending your message, indicate the end of the message by
sending an AR (• - • - •) as one letter to the receiver. The receiver, if he has properly received the
message, should respond by sending R (• - •).
The conventional signs used by Morse Code signalers are indicated in the previous page.
Sending an IMC Message by Light. Sending a Morse message by blinker or light is a special skill that
should be practiced very well. The source of light may be the sunlight reflected on a shiny object (such
as a mirror or aluminum kettle bottom) and the light beam should be directed at the receiver’s face.
Instead of moving the mirror’s beam to and from the receiver’s face, however, to indicate dots and
dashes it is a good idea to have a covering (cardboard or anything opaque) over the reflection. The
dots-and dashes can then be made by covering and uncovering the reflection, like a blinker or shutter.

The Dash Beam should be about 3 times the length of a dot beam; that is, the time used in covering the
beam for a dash should be about three seconds, whereas a dot is made by covering the beam for one
second.
Homemade or emergency heliographs can be constructed out of cardboard.
At night, you can use a flashlight, campfire, lantern, or automobile light. Use the same technique as in
daytime to send dots and dashes. REMEMBER, it is the seconds consumed in putting off (or covering)
the light beam that spells out the letters, not the time the beam is on.
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A homemade blinker can be constructed from a cardboard tube, some metal strips, four 1.5V batteries,
and a flashlight bulb, as illustrated.

Communicating by Sound. In sending a Morse Code message by sound over a considerable distance
that can be heard by your intended receiver, you may use any sounding device such as a whistle, bugle,
rock, striking a hollow tree trunk, kettle, or by voice or mouth whistle.
Make signals to resemble a telegraph sounder. Find a way of distinguishing a dash from a dot. A
telegraphic sounder is really composed of dots and dashes. Thus, to send a dot, tap once quickly to the
sound of dit; to make a dash, tap once longer than the dot-dah. Thus, letter F will be as “di-di-dah-dit.”
letter Z will be “dah-dah-di- dit.”

WILDERNESS SIGNALLING
When out camping or hiking, you can send messages by Morse Code using any improvised equipment
you can find along the way. For example, you can signal visually by using a branch with leaves, a hat, a
paddle, or handkerchief/neckerchief. Be sure the color of your “flag” is in contrast with the
background; i.e., if your “flag” is of light color, go in front of a dark background. For an emergency,
with the use of sun's ray flashes you can send signal or message through the use of mirror, aluminum
can, kettle cover, tinfoil, or any reflective items laying around.
Whistle or Horn Signal:
Short-range communication along the hiking trail or in camp can be done using the following standard
signals:
1. One long blast means “silence” or “Attention.”
2. Two short blasts mean “All right; everything okay.”
3. A succession of short, sharp blasts means “Assemble”; “come together.”
4. A series of long, slow blasts means “scatter”; “get farther away.”
5. Three short blasts followed by a long one means “Leaders, come here.”

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6. Three long blasts mean “danger”; “look out.”
7. A series of alternating short and long blasts mean “mess call”, “kainan na.”
Smoke Signals
Any smoke in the wilderness or forest always alerts a keen Senior Scout. Smoke means that there is
man in that area.
You can also send smoke signals. First, make a quick small fire using dry sticks and, when it is already
burning, throw on top some green grass or leaves. A heavy column of white smoke will go up (For a
black smoke, use oil, oil-soaked rags, or rubber scraps). To interrupt the smoke column; use a ground
cloth, wet blanket, or inverted pack basket. Control the smoke puffs by shutter-like motions of the
blanket. Count to two for dots, six for dashes, and two for the break between letters. Count ten for the
interval between words. Smoke signaling requires practice.

SMOKE SIGNALLING
Sender cannot transmit detailed signals by means of smoke but it can be sent a very long way, even
when the sender is too far away to be seen.

To signal, the smoke must be made to ascend at various intervals, long and short according to the
sender's code, by stoking the fire with clamp grass and leaves and spreading a wet piece of carpet or
sock over the fire and removing it.

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One steady line of smoke means, “This is the meaning.”

Three puffs followed at by groups of three puffs means, “Danger, Attention” or “Help Needed.”
Distress Signals
In the forest or wilderness, any strange sound which is not common among the sounds of the jungle,
especially if repeated, is a signal worth investigating. It may be a distress signal, such as:
1. A gun or any explosive fired at intervals of one minute, or a gun fired in groups of 3 shots is a
distress signal (three of anything is a distress signal).
2. Rockets fired at short intervals.
3. Flames of a burning tar drum or oil barrel.
4. The Philippine flag flown upside down (with the red part above the blue).
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 5. Any sound apparatus or horn sounding steadily in an unusual place.
6. The number 9 on land telegraph lines.
7. The S.O.S. calls by ships at sea.
8. The rapidly repeated sounds of a bell, drum, whistle, or bugle.
It is always important to be LAGING HANDA. Learn all these important communication signals by
heart. It may later on save your life, and that of others.

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Chapter 5: Observation, Stalking, and Concealment

Have you ever come close enough to photograph a wild animal (say, a deer) without being sensed by
it? Or have you ever trailed another Scout through a busy town street without his ever knowing that you
are following him? If not, then you are missing the fun and thrill out of this sport.
In the past, when there was still plenty of forest cover and animals freely roamed, you could see deer,
or wild pig (baboy ramo), or wild carabao tracks around a watering hole. You could follow the tracks
until you came into sight of the animal.
Then you could trail or stalk it to as near as possible without being detected and you could study its
behavior, eating habits, and its habitat. You could even get a photograph of the animal in action.
All these are now gone with the passage of time, due to the denudation of our forests, and the
encroachment of modern man into once forested areas. Nevertheless. you can still practice this art of
tracking, trailing or stalking today in some forest areas and Wildlife preserves notably in national parks
and reservations dotting the country. This is a skill that you can practice even in populated towns or city
areas. This activity requires careful observation, proper ways of concealment, and knowing how to
move about soundlessly and smoothly.
Observation is not just merely looking. It is really knowing where and how to look, and – more than
that – how to understand the meaning of the things you see.

A KEEN SENSE OF OBSERVATION

Senior Scouts need to acquire a keen sense of observation. Recognition of objects, even how small they
may be, may eventually solve some mysteries or may explain the occurrence of some events.
For example, the keen sense of observation by an alert Senior Scout saved the lives of a sleeping family
in a small town one night.
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There was this Scout who was returning home one late evening from a birthday party. As he was
walking along an unlighted street, he sensed a man who was standing suspiciously in front of a
darkened house. He pretended not to mind the man as he walked past him, but he noted that the man
has a long beard, was about five feet three inches tall, and was carrying a long knife tucked in his
trousers which caught his eye as the moonlight struck the protruding part of its blade. Nevertheless, he
walked briskly until he rounded the street corner then immediately ran to the nearest police station
where he reported what he saw and described the man as best as he could. At once, a policeman was
dispatched to the place and caught the man as he was trying to. break into the house through a window
which he forced open. It turned out that the man was a wanted member of a local AKYAT BAHAY gang.
There are many ways by which you can use your observation skills in this modern-day world. Lord
Baden Powell, the Founder of Scouting, taught his Scouts observation through an activity he called
Kim’s Game. It is a way of sharpening your sense of memory.
Baden-Powell placed a variety of articles on a blanket spread on the ground which he covered. His
Scouts gathered around the blanket. Then the blanket cover was removed and the Scouts were then
asked to look at all the objects for one minute. Then the cover was replaced and each Scout was asked
to list down as many items as he could remember.
You can also practice this with the help of another Senior Scout in your Crew or Outfit.
From there, you can improve your observation skills by noting each item in detail. For instance, let one
fellow Scout flash a picture and photograph to you for one minute. Hide the picture and list down or
tell him what you saw to the last detail. If it is a picture of a girl, you may note the shape of her face,
the length of her hair, what earrings she wears, any particular mole or blemish on her face, the shape of
her jaw, and others. With constant practice, you will soon be able to describe a scene or event with
some degree of accuracy.
Of course, in real-life situations, you must learn to observe without the other person or group of
persons knowing that you are observing. Many people consider it rude to stare at a person, so that often
times, you may have to get as many facts as you can with one short glance. You can train yourself to
note some peculiar or extraordinary features present in a particular scene out of the corner of your eyes.
When observing animals or people at close range without spooking them, concealment is often
necessary. Camouflage is the art of concealment in a higher degree, it is accomplished by means of
blending in with your background surroundings. Have you observed how a praying mantis escapes the
prying eye of its foes and preys alike? If you have also seen in the movies how soldiers or hunters
camouflage themselves with leaves and other native materials to blend with their background in order
to “hide” themselves from view of their enemies or prey, then you have a pretty good idea of what
concealment is all about.

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Camouflage is only one part of concealment. The other part consists of identifying good areas or spots
for concealment and then learning how to use those areas or spots as your observation post. You can
climb a tree and sit comfortably on one of its huge branches. From there, you can look down and
observe the animals passing under you.

In urban areas, you can conceal yourself while following a person by mixing with the crowd, or
looking out behind one of the windows of a darkened room in the house. The techniques for doing
these as can be seen in the illustrations. For instance, when you hide behind a shrub or bush, look at
your quarry from the side of the bush. Do not poke your head above the shrubbery because you can
easily be seen. Also, when you are using the side of a building as cover and following a person, drop
close to the ground and peer below the normal eye level.

OBSERVATION BY SIGHT
Skilled observers must know what to look for and how to look. They have a set routine for “looking”
for and at things. As they walk along, their eyes move in semi- circular “sweep” in front. It is very
similar to the ripples of water in a still lake when you drop a stone in it. A trained observer’s line of
sight resembles these circles of ripples. First, a skilled Scout looks around an area about 2 meters in
front and about 20 meters wide, running in a semi-circle from left to right. Then his eyes move on to
another 2-meter band beyond the first one, and on the ground under his feet. Occasionally, he looks

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behind him to get a different perspective since everything looks different from another view.
If you are observing objects around you as you walk, train your eyes to “see” things on objects which
are not easily noticeable by ordinary persons. To do this, you may have to slow down a little bit and let
your eyes wander. Instead of glancing at a forest, look at one tree. Watch individual plants. See the
movement of clouds or anything that moves in the bush.

OBSERVATION BY SOUND
Aside from just looking at things, you can also use your sense of hearing to observe your surroundings.
This skill is particularly useful at night when sounds become more prominent and, perhaps, is the only
way to understand your surroundings.
The out-of-doors is a good place to train yourself to listen to sounds. The sounds of the tree lizard
(tuko) and the croaking of bullfrogs can provide music to your ears.
Some birds sing to warn others to clear off their territories.
Sometimes, the sudden quietness of the surroundings may mean that an intruder is prowling nearby. At
night, you can hear the sounds of the cicadas. But when all of a sudden they stop making noise, then
you know that something has disturbed them.
You can train yourself to identify sounds by sitting down blindfolded. Then ask another Senior Scout to
make as many kinds of sounds as possible (sawing wood, stomping his feet, driving nails, etc.) then try
to identify them. You must get 9 out of 10 correct sounds in order to consider yourself a master in that
skill.

OBSERVATION BY SMELL AND TOUCH

You can tell what your mother is cooking by the smell of its aroma. Similarly, you can identify certain
animals, flowers, trees, even moss, by their natural odor. You can increase your sense of smell by
moistening your upper lip with a little water (or your saliva), then pay attention to smells out-of-doors.
A blindfold game similar to that of observation by sound may also help you improve your sense of
smell.
Similarly, you can distinguish various kinds of plants through the texture of their leaves. When you
touch objects, you can differentiate the rough ones from the smooth ones. Our bodies, particularly our
fingertips, have many sensitive nerves which we can use to learn more intricate information about
ordinary objects: rocks, plants, minerals, soil. A good observer must have a good sense of touch.

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TRACKING, TRAILING, AND STALKING
Tracking is the art of identifying and following the mark previously made by a person or animal such
as footprints, paw prints, or tire prints of moving vehicles over soft or hard ground and reading their
meanings.
Trailing is the art of following the telltale signs of a moving person or animal. When a Senior Scout
follows another Scout who has gone ahead of him in a dense forest in order to catch up with him, the
former is “trailing” the latter. Trailing also means following man-made signs through new paths or
trails in order that you can find your way back later.
When you want to approach an animal or person within photographing or touching distance without
being seen or heard, you use a technique called Stalking.
Skills in tracking can only be gained through a lot of practice. A Senior Scout who is on the lookout for
tracks faces the sun because tracks are easier to see that way since they cast sharp shadows particularly
in the early morning or late afternoon.
Here are few tips which may help you become proficient in tracking, particularly when conducting
search and rescue or stalking animal:
1 . Study one track at a time. Get down on your hands and knees and study the shape and size of
the track you want to follow, compared with other tracks nearby. By measuring or making a
sketch of it, you can fix it in your mind.
2. On soft soil, tracks are easier to identify. Animal tracks differ from one another just as the
footprints of human beings differ from each other.
3. When tracking animals, look for more than just the prints. Try to identify other evidences of
the animal, such as droppings (or animal excreta), trees or rocks where the animal may have
scratched or rubbed its body. If droppings or excreta is completely dry, then you know that the
animal passed by some time ago. If it is moist, then it has left more recently and the animal may
be nearby. If possible, face the sun when you study tracks of animals or persons. The shadows
cast make the tracks more clear and distinct.

4. Look for telltale signs of what the tracks or footprints mean. The breaking of a twig may
indicate the direction of travel or other things that the animals or person was doing. Look for
overturned stones, fresh scratches on tree trunks, places where the animal or person slept.
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 5. As you move, always take note of all important landmarks so you don't get lost as you
proceed. These important signs will guide you back to your starting joint, especially in thickets
and wilderness.
6. Do not disturb human artifacts. Over the years, some humans may have left traces of their
existence. When you do discover something, draw a map of the area and when you return to
civilization, alert the local authorities so they can examine the site.

COLLECTING TRACKS
There are two ways to collect tracks. One is to photograph them if you have a camera. The other is to
make plaster casts.

To make a plaster cast, buy some Plaster of Paris at a hardware store. Mix it with water only when you
are ready to use it. Get a cardboard strip and notch the ends together to form a funnel. Use the
cardboard funnel to pour in the plaster. Let it dry for 10 or 15 minutes (in hot weather). Remove it and
brush off the dirt.
On the back of the plaster track, identify the track, the date you cast it, and the place where you found
the track.

STALKING
Stalking is the art of getting as close as possible to a quarry (animal or person) without being seen or
sensed. Stalking allows you to photograph or otherwise observe the quarry at close range.
To stalk well, patience is one of the key things to be developed. Learn to control your body movement
so you can move smoothly and quietly. Stalking heightens all your senses as you try to approach a wild
animal or a person who does not know you are stalking him.

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Stalking involves keeping yourself as inconspicuous us as possible. Try to blend with your surrounding
so you will seem to disappear.
The first rule in stalking is to move slowly and silently. Avoid any jerky movement which may frighten
away your quarry. Do not make a sound such as an accidental breaking of a twig or rustling of leaves.
When stalking on grassy areas, step on your heel first, then bring down your toes slowly and silently.
On hard or rocky ground, bring down your toes first. Feel out a solid footing and bring your heel down
slowly. In both cases, as you walk, keep your balance on your back foot until your front foot is ready to
bear the weight. In stalking, lift your feet high, straight up, so you will not kick stones or rustle grass,
from bush to bush, or from tree to tree, or slowly through grass. Move when the wind blows and rustles
the grass or leaves so that any sound you accidentally make will be muffled by the sound of the wind.
Do not move when the grass around you is motionless.
Be extra careful about shadow and your background. Your head sticking up over the top of a rock or
bush will be outlined against the shrub near the bottom. Make sure that you blend with the background.

Your shadow may give you away. Even your shadow movement may frighten away birds or animals.
Never stand such that your shadow is obvious. Crouch or lie down, so that your shadow will blend with
the shadow of the tree, rock, or shrub which you are using for concealment.

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When you crawl on your belly, move quietly and smoothly by just resting your weight on your toes and
elbows and by pushing them against the ground so that your body will follow. You can pull yourself
along by grasping grass or anything you can hold in front of you.
While stalking, watch your quarry constantly. At the least sign of alarm, freeze in your tracks and don’t
move a muscle, until your quarry resumes normal or natural activities.
Remember that animals have very keen sense of smell and hearing. So conceal yourself on the leeward
(downwind) side so that the animal you are stalking is between you and the wind (with the wind
blowing towards you).
If the wind changes direction, you probably will have to circle around so that the animal cannot smell
you.

A blind is a good place to hide when you observe a feeding or watering spot of animals. You can make
a natural blind from natural materials such as dead branches of trees. Do not cut fresh boughs of trees
to make blinds so that you can preserve the ecology of the place.
After building the blind, walk around it several times and see, from all angles, from near the ground,
from eye level, and from above, if it looks like a natural object. Lash down any part that might flap in
the wind. Don’t try using it for several days, so that the animals will have time to become accustomed
to it. Sooner or later, they will accept it as a regular part of the natural environment.
In flat terrain, where a tent or a blind will stand out against the sky line, dig a foxhole and cover the top
with a frame of sticks. Cover the sticks with canvas or burlap and lay grass or leaves on top of it.
In a rocky territory, make a blind to resemble a boulder or rock. Using wooden or bamboo frame, cover
it with burlap then paint it to resemble a boulder. Let the smell of the fresh paint evaporate before using
it.
Remove any sign of your presence around the outside of the blind. Make a brush of grass and sweep
away all your footprints. Then walk around to the back of the blind and back into it, sweeping behind
you as you walk.
Clear out the ground inside the blind down to the dirt. The rustle of leaves or grass you create inside the
blind may give you away.
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Build your blind very well. The time spent in making it will help you pay off in excitement as you
watch or photograph wild birds or animals in their natural habitats.

Trail Signs

TRAILING
When you are hiking cross country through unfamiliar or new terrain, it is important that you leave
some trail marks and signs as you move along. The purposes are two-fold: (1) it can guide you back to
your original location should you need to return or you get lost, and (2) another scout can follow you.
Trail signs in the wilderness can be made out of dried wooden sticks or with rocks or with rocks and
stones placed together to indicate direction of travel or danger signals to warn people of impending
danger. The illustrations on the next page show how trail signs are made, using grasses, twigs, stones
and rocks.
Keep in mind that when you make trail signs, do not cut trees or wantonly destroy the saplings or do
anything that will mar an otherwise beautiful environment. Time was when we can chop tree barks and
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use them as trail signs. That time has passed. Chopping trees into blazes is not anymore considered
environmentally acceptable, since chopping and blazing disfigure trees and expose them to insect
infestation and tree diseases. Other more acceptable methods that can be used now are:
1. Painting the signs – white paint for a main trail, colored ones for secondary or special trails.
2. Sign Boards – for more permanent trails signs.
3. Use of Cairns – a heap of stones pile up are good markers. They should be visible without
being too obvious.

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Chapter 6: Nature Lore

In Senior Scouting, you experience the beauty of the natural environment through outdoor activities
like hiking and camping trips.
The natural environment of forests, lakes, rivers, and seashores are made up of individual ecosystems
that are interlinked together. Each ecosystem is delicate and requires considerable amount of care and
protection. Our knowledge is an important key in helping us understand and appreciate the nature of
things around us. It is important to understand that the actions of each individual part of the ecosystem
greatly affects the other part. Man, being a part of an ecosystem, is greatly dependent on it for his
survival.

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EDIBLE AND MEDICINAL PLANTS
Plants not only provide the human body with organic nutrients, vitamins, and minerals but also perform
healing functions. However, the use of plants and herbs as medicine dates back to antiquity. Even
modern medicine today makes use of the therapeutic preparations derived from the plant kingdom.
These plants are administered or used in different ways: infusion, ‘decoction, extracting the juice, and
poultices.
The following are some of the common, medicinal plants in the Philippines and their varied uses. If
you wish to use any of these plants, you should consult a herbal doctor or a physician. For more
detailed discussion of these, you may read some of the literature listed at the end of this chapter:
1. Bitter Gourd
Scientific Name: Memordica Charantia
Common Name: Ampalaya, Paliya
The juice of the leaves is applied externally for skin diseases like eczema, peoriasis, hemorrhoids, and
acne. It is also drunk for dysentery and the decoction of the whole plant is a treatment for diabetes and
chronic ulcers in the stomach.
2. Carrot
Scientific Name: Daucus Carota
Common Name: Karot, Carrot
Raw carrots assist in the normal functioning of the colon and it is good for those with stomach and
intestinal troubles. Carrot juice or salad is also a remedy for dysuria (painful urination), kidney and gall
bladder obstructions, and jaundice.
3. Celery
Scientific name: Apium Graveolens
Common Name: Kinchay
Celery can be serve as a salad and is good for the treatment of rheumatism, neuralgia, and anorexia
(lack of appetite). The juice is drunk for obesity, heartburn, hyperacidity, and other sodium deficiency
diseases. A glass of celery juice is given as a sobering formula in case of insomnia and drunkenness.
The seeds in decoction is good for bronchitis, asthma, hiccough, and also for fever with coughs, nasal
congestion, and vomiting.
4. Corn
Scientific Name: Zea Mays
Common Name: Mais
The decoction of the whole plant is universally renowned for its curative properties for genito-urinary
disorders stranguria or dysuria (slow and painful voiding of urine), kidney, bladder stones, and disorder
of the bladder like cystitis. The decoction of the soft stem is remedy for indigestion and frequent
Stomach aches. Corn coffee is administered in case of nausea and emenis (vomiting).
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5. Cucumber
Scientific Name: Cucumbis Sativum
Common Name: Pipino
Cucumber contains quantities of fluorine which makes it very useful for the healthy growth of hair,
nails, teeth, and bones. The high potassium content of the vegetable is very beneficial in low blood
pressure and hypertension. The salad is prescribed for falling hair and the splitting of nails. The
cucumber juice is a remedy for rheumatism, gout, and skin problems.
6. Eggplant
Scientific name: Solarium Melangena
Common Name: Talong, Tawong
The decoction is good as a general stimulant and cure for asthma. The leaves are prescribed for
hemorrhoids. The infusion of the vegetable, stem and leaves is drunk to induce urination and to expel
liver impurities. This vegetable is cure for insomnia.
7. Garlic
Scientific name: Allium Sativum
Common Name: Bawang, Ahos
Garlic is a natural antibiotic which kills germs because of its allicin content. It is also used as cure for
ailments like high blood pressure, gallstones, chronic lung diseases and stomach disorders.
8. Ginger
Scientific Name: Zingiber Officinale
Common Name: Luya, Loy-a
The rhizome is tonic and stimulant. The decoction is best for amenorrhea, throat infections, and
paralysis of the tongue. Ginger tea promotes a cleansing effect on the body. A normal amount of ginger
is good for diarrhea, gas pain colic, indigestion, and colds. In proper doses, the decoction induces
vomiting.
9. Okra
Scientific name: Abelmoschus Esculentus
Common Name: Okra
The tender fruit is boiled and administered for fever, gastric ulcers, and dysentery. A decoction of the
leaves and flowers is cure for bronchitis and pneumonia and used as external application to relieve
rheumatism and reduces the congestion of varicose veins.
10. Onion
Scientific Nam: Allium Copa
Common Name: Sibuyas

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Its natural oil is good for asthma, bronchitis, tuberculosis, coughs, sinusitis and other respiratory tract
infections. Onions are good for weak digestion, constipation. flatulence and gastritis.

11. Parsley
Scientific Name: Petrodelinum
Common Name: Kinchay
The roots or leaves is one of the best remedies for fever, kidney stones, and difficult urination. The
fresh juice extract is used for asthma, spasms and chronic coughs. Parsley is best eaten as a nourishing
salad and it is an anti-cancer agent.
12. Pineapple
Scientific Name: Ananas Comosus
Common Name: Pinya
The fruit contains much cellulose which makes it beneficial for constipation or chronic bowel stasis. It
is also good for sore throat. The decoction of the leaves is a known remedy for anuria and gonorrhea.
The juice of the unripe fruit mixed with the decoction of the leaves is used to expel intestinal parasites.
13. Potato
Scientific Name: Solanum Tuberusum
Common Name: Patatas
Potato contains powerful alkaloids which check hyperacidity. The decoction of the tuber is given for
peptic ulcers. Raw potato juice mixed with celery and raw carrots is a good cure for gout, rheumatism,
and sciatica when flesh meats are removed from the diet. A poultice made from the grated substance of
raw potato is applied for burns, wounds, and neuralgia.
14. Radish
Scientific Name: Raphanus Sativus
Common Name: Labanos
The raw juice of radish is mixed with a little amount of honey to remedy asthma, chronic bronchitis,
coughs, influenza, and headaches associated with pulmonary congestions. The raw juice expels worms
in the intestines and prevents sedimentation of uric acid in the body. It is also given for treatment of gas
pains, insomnia, and nervous spasms.
15. Tomato
Scientific Name: Lycopersicum Esculentum
Common Name: Kamatis
When eaten regularly, tomato prevents and cures ailments like constipation, flatulence, scurvy, beri-
beri, arthritis, nervous tension, neuritis, jaundice, rheumatism, and kidney dysfunction. The juice of the
ripe vegetable is remedy for tuberculosis, asthma, and bronchitis. The fresh juice from the unripe
tomato mixed with a little honey is used as gargle for sore throat, tonsillitis, and other throat infections.
16. Avocado
Scientific Name: Persea Americana
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Common Name: Avocado
The infusion of the leaves makes excellent tea and it is good for colic pains and dysentery. The
decoction of the powdered seeds is given for treatment of toothache, rheumatism, and neuralgia.
17. Banana
Scientific Name: Musa Sapientum
Common Name: Saging
The fully ripe banana makes an excellent food for anemia, jaundice, nervous depletion, obesity, weak
digestion, and vitamin deficiency diseases. The decoction of the unripe fruit is drunk for diarrhea and
scurvy. The juice of the plant is taken for hemorrhages, cholera, epilepsy, and hysteria. Ripe bananas
prevent constipation, colitis, hemorrhoids, heartburn, and bladder infections.
18. Coconut
Scientific Name: Cocos Nucifera
Common Name: Niyog, Lubi
The water of the young coconut is taken for stomach upsets and ulcers. It is also good for colic pains,
fatigue, weak lungs, dehydration, weight loss, and poor memory. The decoction of the roots is a cure
for smallpox. The water from the young fruit (buko) is drunk to remedy kidney stone trouble while an
intake of the water from the ripe of mature fruit can cause bladder or urethal irritation.

19. Jackfruit
Scientific Name: Artocarpus Heterophillus
Common Name: Langka, Nangka
Eating the fruit abundantly promotes healthy bowel movement. The decoction of the chopped roots is a
known remedy for diarrhea. It is also administered to relieve asthma. The latex (milky juice) of the tree
is applied externally to counteract insect bites, heal open wounds, and reduce glandular swellings. The
boiled or roasted seeds relieve colic.
20. Lemon
Scientific Name: Citrus Limon
Common Name: Dayap, Agri
Lemon juice is an agent which hastens the scaling in sunburn. It is a good dissolver of corns, warts,
pimples, and hemorrhoids. The lemon juice, when taken with water and sweetened with honey, is good
for anemia, beri-beri, scurvy, ‘stomach upsets, indigestion, constipation, diabetes, coughs, asthma,
obesity, sore "throat, and tonsillitis. With honey, lemon juice makes an excellent gargle for pyorrhea,
bad breath, diptheria, mouth ulcers, stomatitis, laryngitis, and pharyngitis.
21. Mango
Scientific Name: Mangifera Indica
Common Name: Mangga
The infusion of the leaves is a remedy for bleeding, hemorrhoids, dysentery, and menorrhagia. The
infusion or decoction of the leaves and flowers is very good for chronic bronchitis. The ashes of the
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leaves are applied over burns and scalds to hasten drying and healing. The rind (outer layer) of the fruit
is applied to skin infections and itchiness, and the dried unripe mango is eaten for scurvy.

22. Papaya
Scientific Name: Carica Papaya
Common Name : Papaya, Kapayas
Papaya contains papain which is an excellent aid in digestion and remedy for other digestive disorders
like flatulence, indigestion, stomach upsets, heartburn, hyperacidity, and constipation. The decoction of
the leaves is drunk for asthma and amenorrhea. The fresh juice from the leaves are applied to clear
freckles and heal wounds.

ORNAMENTAL AND HERBAL PLANTS

The following plants are grown specifically for their curative or healing properties while at the same
time serve as decorative plants inside and around the house. It is nice to grow them at home as part of
your environmental conservation.
1. Aloe
Scientific Name: Aloe Vera
Common Name: Sabilla
The gelatinous juice from the leaves is rubbed externally on minor bums, insect bites, eczema, sunburn,
and wrinkles of the skin. The fresh juice when mixed with gogo is used as hair wash to prevent falling
hair and baldness. It is also applied to treat athlete’s foot.

2. Camphor Plant
Scientific Name: Blumea Balsamifera
Common Name: Sambong
The decoction of the leaves is good for diarrhea, phlegm, coughs, asthma, nervous spasms, and
stomach upsets. The poultice of the fresh leaves is applied on external wounds and for headaches
caused by tension. The leaves are crushed and mixed with coconut oil to relieve painful limbs and
joints.
3. Chrysanthemum
Scientific Name: Chrysanthemum Indicum
Common Name: Mansanilla
The entire plant is medicinal. The infusion of the roots, stems, leaves, and flowers is remedy for fevers,
hysteria, nervousness, and amenorrhea. The infusion of the flowers makes an excellent eyewash to cure
sore eyes, boils, abscesses, and sores. (This must be done in the presence of a physician.)
4. Hibiscus
Scientific Name: Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis
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Common Name: Gumamela
The decoction of the leaves and roots is used to abate fevers and treat mouth infections. The poultice of
the roots is applied on bloody wounds and swellings. The infusion of the red flowers is cure for cystitis
and other common infections of the genito-urinary tract.

5. Jasmin
Scientific name: Jasmimum Sambac
Common Name: Sampaguita
The in-fusion of the leaves is remedy for high fever, nervous spasms, and chronic coughs. The pounded
roots are used as an external application for sprains and bone dislocations.
6. Mugwort
Scientific Name: Astemisia Vulgaris
Common Name: Damong Maria
Mugwort tea promotes the healthy secretion of bile and a tonic for the liver and the gall bladder. The
decoction of the leaves and flowering tops is remedy for coughs, amenorrhea, and hemorrhage. A
poultice made from the pounded leaves is cure for dandruff.
7. Oregano
Scientific Name: Coleus Amboinious Lour
Common Name: Oregano
The fresh leaves are applied on the front part of the neck to cure sore throat and on the painful joints for
rheumatisms. The decoction or infusion of the leaves is given for coughs, stomachaches associated with
indigestion, and colic. The juice of the plant is applied on superficial bums.
8. Peppermint
Scientific Name: Mentha Piperita
Common Name: Herba Buena
This plant has many varieties with the same medicinal properties. The infusion is taken for insomnia,
prostatitis, jaundice, heartburn, migraine, sinusitis, and gallstones. The infusion mixed with little honey
makes a gargle for. sore throat, tonsillitis, hoarseness and other infections of the throat.
9. Rose
Scientific Name: Rosa Centifolia
Common Name: Rosas
The infusion of the petals is good for hemoptysis, dysentery, diarrhea, and phtisis (wasting in
tuberculosis). The infusion mixed with little honey makes a good gargle for stomatitis and other ulcers
of the mouth, laryngitis, pharyngitis, tonsillitis and sore throat.
10. Sunflower
Scientific Name: Helianthus Annuus
Common Name: Mirasol
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The infusion of the fresh leaves is given for bronchitis, asthma, whooping cough, and other respiratory
diseases. The pounded leaves are used as poultice for wounds, ulcers, and contusions. The decoction of
the roots is taken for diabetes, mellitus, while the decoction of the roasted seeds is drunk for tension,
headaches and nervousness.

GRASSLAND PLANTS
The Grassland is inhabited by other groups of plants like the fungi, mosses, and ferns. The fungi
compose the group of non-green plants that have no true leaves, stems, and roots and do not produce
flowers or seeds. The mosses thrive mostly in damp shades, generally growing closely and forming La
dense, cushion-like mat. Ferns are plants with vascular tissues, true roots, leaves and stems but without
flowers or fruits.
Kabuting-Punso
The umbrella-like cap is white with brown spots on the top which is flat to convex with the margin
turned inwards when mature. The stalks are long. It is edible.
Caesar's Death Cap
The fruiting body is umbrella-like, with spots on the cap, with stem cup at the base and ring. Some
species are poisonous. This mushroom thrives on dead wood and decaying plant parts.

Tricholoma
Large mushrooms that grow in clusters. There is no ring on the stem. The sinuate grills are white. It
grows on the ground. It is edible.
Kabuting-Saging
The expanded convex cap which looks like an umbrella is brown and silky. The grills are white when
young, and pink when mature. The stem is enclosed at the base by a cup-shaped vulva. It is edible.
Chlorophyllum
Mushrooms with small scaly caps and brown scales. spores and grills are green. A movable ring is
found around the stalk. It is poisonous. It thrives on garbage piles.

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Pako
A fern with stout, black wiry roots and creeping rhizome reaching a height of one meter or more. It
grows in wet, open places or along streams and occasionally grows in gardens. The young portions are
edible.

Banig-Usa
A small fern with slender rootstock; stems are slender, creeping and branched; leaves are 4 clover-like
fan-shaped and smooth leaflets; sporocaps covered with brown hair when young, and become smooth
when mature. It grows in open wastelands, shallow pools, mudholes and muddy fields. It is sometimes
used to feed cattle.

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Pakong Parang
An upright fern with short rootstock with height of about one meter; strips are clustered at the base of
the plant fronds oblong, pinnate about 20 to 50 centimeters long grows in thickets, old gardens, and
crevices of old dry walls.

PHILIPPINE ANIMALS

Birds
More than 750 species of birds are known in the Philippines which belong to about 293 genera
(classification). Some of the endemic species (prevalent in a certain locality) are the zone-tailed pigeon
and punalada (Mindoro), barred owl (Palawan), calao (Marinduque), Tweeddale’s black woodpecker
and guaiabero (Samar-Leyte), monkey-eating eagle, racket-tailed parakeet, blue backed parrot, spine-
tailed swift, tarictic (hornbill), trogon, cuckoo, and oriole.

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MAMMALS
Among the mammals, the horse, cattle, carabao, sheep, goat, domestic cat, and dog have been
introduced into the Philippines. The largest indigenous mammal is the tamaraw which is found in
Mindoro. Big families of mammals include the flying lemur, skunks, otter, palm civets, squirrels, rats
and mice, porcupine, scaly anteater, weasel, shrews, tarsiers, monkeys, pigs, and mouse deer.
Some of these animals, however, are found in other countries.

Insects
The total number of insect species 25,000; of which about 10,000 species, or approximately 40 percent
are known. The insects, as the smallest class in the animal kingdom together with the spiders,
centipedes, millipedes, lobsters and crabs, form the great sub-kingdom.

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Anthropoda
Other insects and their allies are the beetles, butterflies and moths, water bugs, cicadas, flies and
mosquitoes, bees, wasps, ants, grasshoppers, locusts, crickets, praying mantis, walking sticks,
cockroaches, earwigs, dragonflies, termites, and scorpions.

Fishes
Our country has an exceedingly rich marine fish fauna. Many species are found 1n lakes and. rivers,
but most of them are marine or brackish-water species, or else they spawn in salt water and spend only
a part of their life in fresh water. Examples of these species are sharks, rays, sawfishes, mullets or
banak, milkfishes, eels, snappers, pampanos, gobies, flying fishes, catfishes, dalag, climbing perch,
gourami, and the carp family.

AMPHIBIANS, LIZARDS, AND SNAKES

The Philippines is rich in species of amphibia which include frogs, toads, and salamanders that
reproduce eggs which are fertilized outside the fema1e's body. The distribution of these forms are
definitely confined to land areas. No less than eighty-eight species have been discovered and not more
than half the species existing within the Philippines have been known; and most of these species belong
in the order Salientia.
The large numbers of house lizards belong to the family Gekkonidae. These species are skillful hunters
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of cockroaches, mosquitoes, moths, and other insect pests. The genera Hydrosaurus and Varanus are
the largest species and the most striking in appearance among Philippine reptiles. These species have
great powers of adaptability; they can swim and dive in streams or even narrow stretches or oceans.
They feed on rotting animal flesh, bugs, small mammals, chickens, or eggs. There are twenty-eight
genera of lizards known in the country.
There are thirty-two genera of land snakes in the Philippines, five of which are endemic. One of the
endemic genera has three species, and each of the other four is represented by only a single species.
Snakes, like lizards, are, in many cases, arboreal which means that they live in trees. Water snakes are
of wide distribution.
The illustrations in the following pages show the distinction among these natural animals. Reading
further in some science books may give you a general idea of their characteristics and habitats which
will be good information the next time you go to the forest on a hike or camp.

Land and Water Snakes Amphibians

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Chapter 7: Trail First Aid

Accidents can happen, anytime and anywhere. There may be time during your Scouting activities that
you encounter accidents. Or you may be administering first aid to someone who meets an accident. As
a Scout, always be prepared with proper training and commitment.
Preparedness suggests three important things: good health, mental alertness, and extra care in the
process of undertaking any Scouting activities. This is the best way to prevent accidents.
Preparedness, however, is also needed in giving first aid to an injured person. The way you act in cases
of emergency has a great bearing on the patient’s recovery and condition. The confidence that you
show, the common sense that you display, the calmness and cheerfulness in handling the situation make
your patient feel at ease.

WOUNDS
Wounds are divided into two types: the closed or contused wound and the open wound. It is a closed
wound when the soft tissue is damaged below the surface without a break in the skin; and it is an open
wound when the skin is cut or tom exposing the tissue beneath. In a closed wound, the blood leaks out
causing skin discoloration or a bruise (black or blue mark). An open wound is more dangerous because
it is subject to bleeding and possible infection from contamination.
Open wounds are of five major types:
1. Abrasions – loss of skin surface without penetration. Made by rubbing or scrapping of the
skin surface.
2. Lacerations – smooth or jagged cuts through the surface of the skin and blood vessels.
Caused by blunt instruments.
3. Avulsions – skin is torn or hanging loose.
4. Punctures – penetration of the skin with a sharp object.
5. Incised – caused by sharp cutting instrument.

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Severe closed wounds on the soft tissues may be helped by applying padding and pressure from a soft
roller bandage. Basically, open wounds are treated or controlled by three general steps:
1. Control bleeding.
2. Protect the wound from contamination and infection.
3. Immobilize the part; keep the patient quiet and treat him for shock, if necessary.

Do not remove a buried object in a puncture wound to avoid severe hemorrhaging or nerve damage.
Leave this to a physician. In case of deep wounds, never wash out the wound because more bleeding
and contamination may occur.

EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL BLEEDING

The bleeding which can be seen coming from a wound is called external bleeding. This may be
controlled by applying pressure to the bleeding site. This method will stop the blood flow and will
allow normal coagulation (blood clotting). There are three ways to control bleeding:
1. Apply direct pressure over the wound.
2. Apply pressure at specific pressure points.
3. Apply tourniquet for severe cases.
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The pressure points for the extremities (legs and arms) are the femoral and the brachial arteries.
Bleeding from the wounds of the neck, mouth, and throat may be controlled by applying pressure to the
carotid artery which is located in the neck.
6 DIGITAL PRESSURE POINTS
How to stop bleeding

Internal bleeding may be very serious and can cause death from shock or loss of blood. Slight bleeding
from the ears, mouth , rectum, or other body openings usually is an indication of internal bleeding. The
following may be indications of internal bleeding:
1. Weak or rapid pulse
2. Cold or clammy skin (moist and sticky)
3. Low or erratic blood pressure
4. Nausea
5. Thirst and/ or signs of anxiety
6. Shortness of breath

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 Care of Shock

SHOCK

Shock is a life-threatening condition that develops when the body’s blood pressure drops dangerously
low. It can result from great pain, a large burn, losing a lot of blood, severe illnesses, dehydration, or
severe allergic reaction. Parts of the body such as the nervous system, the brain, and the kidneys cannot
tolerate the lack of blood flow because they need the oxygen which it supplies. There are many types of
shock of different causes:
Hemorrhagic shock is usually due to loss of blood, either internal or external.
Respiratory shock results when the victim cannot breathe the needed amount of oxygen and
the body accumulates carbon dioxide.
Neurogenic shock is caused by paralysis of the nerves, usually from spinal chord injuries or
neck injuries.
Psychogenic shock (fainting) is usually caused by a sudden reaction of the nervous system
which causes temporary loss of blood to the brain. Lowering the head will cause the return of
blood and usually revives the patient.
Cardiogenic shock is caused by inadequate functioning of the heart identified with chest pains.
Septic shock is caused by severe infection which results in bacteria entering the bloodstream.
Anaphylactic shock is a severe form of an allergic reaction. This kind of reaction may be
caused by ingestion, injection, insect stings, and inhalations.
Traumatic shock (injury-related shock) results from lack of oxygen caused by obstruction of
air passages.
The common signs of shock include anxiety and restlessness, weak or rapid pulse, cold or clammy
skin, profuse sweating, pale or blue facial coloring, irregular or gasping breathing, dilated pupils, thirst
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or nausea, slowly but steadily falling blood pressure, feeling of faintness, and unconsciousness.

Any of the following emergency treatments should be applied to all patients who are in shock:
1. Open airway; restore breathing and heartbeat if necessary.
2. Control any bleeding.
3. Elevate lower extremities.
4. Splint fractures.
5. Prevent loss of body heat.
6. Keep victim lying down (except those with lung or heart conditions).
7. Record blood pressure and other vital signs until arrival at the hospital.
8. Handle the victim gently.

BURNS
Burns are of four different types: heat, chemical, radiation, and electrical. However, they are classified
according to the severity of the burn itself.
1. First-degree burns (the mildest) – the outer skin is red and painful.
2. Second-degree burns (mildly severe) – Blistering of the skin occurs, very painful.
3. Third-degree burns (severe) – There is damage to the entire skin thickness with possible damage to
the tendons, muscle or bone. Also burns on the face, palms, and soles at the feet.

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The seriousness of the burn depends upon the degree of the burn, the extent of the body burn, the age of
the patient involved, and the location of the burn in the body. The shock factor should always be
considered because it is the most common early cause of deaths in patients with untreated large
wounds.
Emergency measures for first- and second- degree burns are:
1. Immerse the burned part of the body in cold water for up to 5 minutes.
2. Cover the burn with sterile dressing or clean cloth.
3. Apply cold, wet applications for the relief of pain or apply a burn ointment on the affected
part.
4. Transport the patient to the hospital emergency department.
For severe, third-degree burns, the basic emergency care include the following:
1. Relieve pain. Use cold applications.
2. Prevent shock.
3. Prevent contamination.
4. Take care of other possible complications (respiratory problems from heat or smoke
inhalation).
5. Transport the patient immediately to the hospital emergency department.

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Blisters caused by burns. Do not break blisters. However, if the blisters are broken, wash gently with
soap and boiled water that has been cooled. Sterilize a little amount of vaseline by heating it until it
boils and spread it on a piece of steri1e gauze. Then, put the gauze on the burn. In the absence of
vaseline, leave the burn uncovered. If signs of infection appear like pus, bad smell, fever, or swollen
lymph nodes, apply compress of warm salt water solution (1 teaspoon salt to 1 liter of water) three
times a day. Boil both the water and cloth before use. With great care, remove the dead skin and flesh,
then apply a little antibiotic ointment.

Blister on heel – Wash the foot with soap and water. Allow it to dry, then cover with a sterile adhesive
bandage or a sterile pad. If you think that the blister may break, drain the fluid. Sterilize a pin in the

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flame of a match. Puncture the blister near its edge and press out the liquid. Put on a sterile bandage.

POISON BITES AND STINGS

Snake Bites
The majority of snakebites, although feared, are not fatal. The usual signs of a snakebite include fang
wounds, burning pain, and swelling at the point of the bite. The victim may have a'tingling sensation of
the tongue and mouth and also around the wound. Perspiration, possible respiratory distress, and signs
of shock may accompany a snakebite.
When someone has been bitten by a snake, try to find out if the snake is poisonous or harmless. Their
bite marks are different. The bite of a poisonous snake leaves marks of the two fangs (and at rare times,
other little marks made by the lower set of teeth).'The bite of a snake that is not poisonous leaves only
two rows of teeth marks, but no fang marks.
When treating a victim for poisonous snakebite, follow these emergency measures:
1. Keep the victim quite. Do not move the part that has been bitten. The more it is moved, the
more rapidly the venom will spread through the body. A person who has been bitten on the foot
should not walk, not even one step. Carry him on a stretcher.
2. Tie a cloth around the limb, just above the bite. Do not tie it very tightly, and loosen it up
for every half hour.
3. If you can get the right kind of snakebite anti-venom, inject it carefully following the
instructions that come with the medicine. Take all precautions to prevent allergic shock. Anti-
venom should be injected not later than three hours after the bite. Have the snake bite antitoxin
ready and study how to use it ahead of time before someone is bitten.
4. Do not apply ice around the limb that was bitten or to any snake bite.
5. If signs of infection develop, use penicillin.

INSECT BITES AND STINGS

The pain from insect bites such as mosquitoes, ants and bees sting can be relieved with a cold towel or
ice water. If the stinger of a bee or wasp breaks off, flick it off with a finger then apply a paste of
household neat tenderizer and water.
Jellyfish Stings
The bell-shaped pink jellyfish has thousands of stinging cells on its tentacles. When touched, the
poisons of these cells cause a sharp burning pain. To relieve the burning pain, wash the touched area
with diluted ammonia or rubbing alcohol; and then apply meat tenderizer paste. Do not use this
technique, however, when it is your eyes that were stinged. Just wash your eyes in clean water and then
apply eye drops.
Scorpion Stings
Some scorpions are far more poisonous than others. Take paracetamol tablets and, if possible, put ice
on the sting. For the numbness and pain that sometimes last for weeks or months, apply hot

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compresses.

Dog Bites
A dog bite can be a serious or life threatening matter, because the dog may be suffering from a disease
called rabies, which if left untreated can lead to serious consequences even death to the person
afflicted. The only way to find out if the dog is rabid is to have it leashed and placed under observation.
If bitten by a dog, immediately wash the affected area with plenty of soap and water to remove the
saliva. Cover the bite area with a sterile dressing then see a physician.
Rat Bites
People are bitten by rats nibbling at their clothes while asleep.
Rats bring with them deadly diseases such as, hepatitis, leptospirosis caused by hanta virus found on
the rat’s urine.
Wash the bite thoroughly with soap and water. Then, cover the bite with sterile dressing. Afterwards,
seek the medical treatment of a physician.

FRACTURES
Any break in a bone is called a fracture. Fractures are divided into closed or simple fractures and open
or compound fractures. A closed fracture is one in which the skin is not broken. When the bone breaks
through the skin, it is called an open fracture. Fractures are classified depending upon the appearances
of the broken bone, as follows:
1. Greenstick fracture – incomplete fracture usually found in children.
2. Transverse fracture – fracture line is at right angles with the long part of the bone.
3. Oblique fraction – fraction line is set at an acute angle with the long part of the bone.
4. Spiral fracture – fracture line twists around and through the bone.
5. Comminuted fracture – fracture in which the bone is broken into two or more pieces.

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 6. Impacted fracture – fracture in which broken bone ends are jammed together.

Signs of fractures are pain and tenderness, loss of the use of suspected broken extremity, grating,
deformity, and swelling or discoloration which may not be seen for several hours. Immediate care of
fractures is important because of the danger of injuring the surrounding tissues such as muscles, nerves,
and blood vessels.
When applying first aid to an unconscious patient, look carefully for signs of fractures and always
suspect that there may be an injury to the neck and back.

PROPER CARE OF FRACTURES

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Collarbone and Shoulder Fracture. No splints are necessary. Place the forearm in a sling with the
hand raised about 7 centimeters higher than the elbow. Tie the upper arm against the side of the body
with the wide cravat bandage. Make sure that the bandage is not so tight that it stops the circulation of
the arm.
Lower Arm or Wrist Fracture. Use a splint made of folded magazine or thick newspapers. Or use two
padded wooden splints as long as the distance from the elbow to the knuckles. Place one on the inside
of the arm, the other outside and bind them together. Place the arm in a wide sling with the thumb up
and the hand slightly higher than the elbow.
Upper Arm Fracture. Use one padded splint only, slightly longer than the distance from the shoulder to
the elbow. Bind it with the two binders outside of the arm. Place forearm in narrow sling. Tie the
splinter arm against the side of the body with a cravat bandage.
Lower leg Fracture. Use two padded splints as long as the distance from the middle of the thigh to just
beyond the heel. Place one splint on each side of the injured limb and bind them together using at least
four binders.
Thigh Fracture. Use padded splints, one for the outside of the leg extending from the heel to the
armpit, one for inside the leg from heel to crotch. Bind the splints together. Use four binders around the
splints and legs, and three binders around the upper part of the outside splint and the body.

TRANSPORTING AN INJURED PERSON

The transportation of the patient requires calmness, care, and common sense. A seriously injured person
should be moved by a first-aider only in case of extreme emergency.
Before transporting a person who is conscious, the first-aider should ask him where the pain is and then
examine the area mentioned, and make a thorough check beginning from the head to toe. When the
patient is unconscious, the first-aider should suspect a head injury and/or a spinal injury, and should
always conduct a complete examination for any possible injury.
Usually, patients are transported lying flat on their back; however, this will vary with certain injuries. If
a Cervical Spine Injury is suspected, the patient should be transported face up, with the neck and head
immobilized. A rolled towel should be placed underneath the neck; any movement of the head or neck
should be avoided. If a Thoracic Spine Injury is suspected, the patient should be transported in the
same position in which he or she is found. If on the back, a support should be placed under the spine.
In all cases of suspected spinal or neck injuries, the patient should be moved carefully and with as little
movement as possible.
Unconscious patients should be transported on their side to allow any blood or secretions to run out of
the mouth and nose so it will not clog the airways.

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Walking Assist
A patient who is weak and who has suffered a minor accident may be assisted to walk. Bring one of his
arms over your shoulder. Hold on to his wrist. Place your free arm around his waist.

One-Man Carry
This is best done by piggyback. Bring your arms under the patient’s knees. Then, grasp his hands over
your chest.

Four-Hand Seat
This is a good method of trans-porting for two first-aiders to carry a conscious patient. Each bearer
grasps his own right wrist with his left hand. The two bearers then lock hands with each other. The
patient places his arms over the bearer’s shoulders.

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Two-Man Carry
Use this method when the patient is unconscious. Bearers kneel on each side of the patient. Each bearer
brings one arm under the patient’s back, the other under his thighs. The bearers grasp each other’s
wrists and shoulders and rise from the ground with the patient.

Use of the Stretchers

The most common type of stretcher is the standard folding stretcher called the army type. This is
essentially made of canvas and supported on each side by wooden or aluminum poles. Improvisations
of this type may be made from a combination of poles, coats, blankets, sacks, ladders, shutters, Scout
shirts, and chairs tied together.

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Pack-Strap Carry
This method is useful when the patient is in bed or on a chair. With your back toward the patient, stoop
in front of the patient bringing the patient’s arms over shoulders and pulling the patient closer to your
back. You should then pull the patient’s hands together and as low as possible in front of your chest.
Raise up and walk with your back bent forward.

Fireman’s Drag
This is the best method for unconscious patients when it is impossible to stand. Place the patient on his
or her back and tie the wrist together. You should then straddle the patient on knees and hands, placing
the patient’s arms around your neck. The patient may be moved by your raising his or her shoulders
and crawling forward, dragging the victim beneath you.

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Chapter 8: Camping and Expedition

Every Senior Scout going up through the advancement ranks looks forward to the time when he can
initially get into an overnight camping and eventually to a 3- to 5-day expedition. The preparations
required for a stay in the out-of-doors are numerous and entails serious study. A lot of indoor or
backyard practice should be done before one even attempts to go on an expedition.
There is a difference between camping and expedition, although the two are inter-related. Camping is
an activity which entails going to one spot, pitching tent there, and staying for a definite period of time
before returning. An expedition involves more than one campsite’ and may include more than one
means of traveling – sometimes by foot, sometimes by boat, sometimes by motor vehicle. An
expedition requires the skills learned in hiking, cooking, camping, nature study, communications,
backwoods engineering, and a host of allied scout skills.
Camping or expeditions does not start at the edge of wilderness. It starts back in civilization – right in
your Outfit or Crew Headquarters. It starts with careful planning, with detailed study of the area you
are going to explore, pack checklist preparation, advice from experts, reading, actual backyard practice,
body toughening, and the proper selection or making of outdoor equipment.
About a hundred years ago, the trailblazer left civilization with no visible pack on his back. He carried
only a rifle, bullets, a knife, and a small sack of odds-and-ends. However, he did carry a pack – the vast
store of knowledge, resourcefulness, and courage packed in his mind. Experience and time will also
give you such a “pack” and as you gather them, your visible pack will grow smaller.

YOUR PACK
When you hike to a campsite, remember that the weight of your pack seems to double by the end of the
first few kilometers, so keep it light. Don’t take unnecessary things such as glass or metal containers;
use cloth or plastic sacks. A l-kilo axe carries and swings twice as easy as a 2 -kilo axe. Perhaps a light
bolo will work better.
Plan to eat well on an expedition or a camping; don't try to save on food by eating half of what you
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should normally eat just to extend the time of the expedition. It is better to cut down the number of
days instead of the rations.
No two outdoorsmen will agree as to the best pack because there is none which is best for all purposes.
The key question to ask is : does it do the job and does it suit your body build and taste?
There are many kind of pack available in the market today, but their price can be prohibitive to the
average Scout, but that should not discourage us, we can improvise after all that’s what Scouting is all
about isn’t it.?
The following are possible packs you can choose from depending on your purpose and camping
duration.
1. Duffle Bags – placed on a pack frame or pack harness. It is difficult for a duffle bag to be
lugged around by hand.
2. Pack Frames – a perfect back pack, because it is cool and keeps the load in position – If you
have a hood carrying padded hip belt, so much the better. 70% of your pack weight is better
carried on the hips which is far more robust than your shoulders. Pack a frame this way: Put
together all loose gear as compactly as possible on the fly of your sleeping bag or the end of a
blanket folded to the size of a single bed. Then fold the top and sides to make as small and tight
a bundle as possible, rolling the bundle over and over.
3. Horse-Collar Pack – can be made with a poncho or blanket. Spread the poncho on the
ground and evenly distribute your gear along the length leaving some 15 cm. at the ends free for
folding over. Roll the poncho tightly into a thin roll, lash with cords or rope at both ends and at
intervals using a rolling hitch. Bend the roll over and sling over your shoulders or lash onto
your haversack.
4. Standard Pack – There are standard Scout packs which are available for use from the
National Scout Shop, Boy Scouts of the Philippines. These packs have been designed for multi-
purpose use by all sections of the BSP – Boy Scouts, Senior Scouts, and Rover Scouts.

WHAT TO PACK
The things you bring to a camping trip or expedition will depend on the season of the year, your
companions, the duration of the trip, and the places you will go to.
Normally, all camping gear can be divided into two kinds: the individual gear and the crew/outfit gear.
The following is a general list. You do not need to bring all of them; just select the ones you need for
the season and the camping location, remember avoid bringing glass or easily breakable items or
containers:
Optional Items
Map
Songbook
Survival Kit
Scout Handbook
Bible or Prayer Book
Camera
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 Sunglasses
Binoculars
Nature books
Swimming Trunks
Personal Tent
Rubberboots
To be placed inside or tied to your pack:
• Waterproof ground cloth or plastic
• Toilet Kit containing: comb, toothbrush & toothpaste, soap, hand.bath towels, metal mirror,
hair groomer, deodorant, shampoo, toilet paper
• Sneakers
• Clothesbag containing: extra shirts/pants, pajamas or sweat shirt, extra handkerchief, extra
socks, change of underwear
• Sleeping bag or 2 to 3 warm blankets
• Axe or bolo
• Climbing rope, of at least 20 meters
• Emergency first aid
To be carried in the pocket
• Jack knife / Scout knife
• matches in waterproof case
• wallet with money (include small change for phone calls)
• compass
• 2-3 adhesive strips
• handkerchief
• ballpoint pen
To be placed on top of your pack
• Repair Kit containing: Rubber bands, Shoelaces, Safety pins, cord or rope, fire starter, extra
plastic bags, duct tape, sewing kit
• Eating Utensils, such as: knife, spoon, fork, cup, plate, saucer plate
• Flashlight
• First Aid Kit
To be worn (or you can place on top of pack)
• Complete uniform
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 • Hiking shoes
• Sweater/jacket
• Raincoat or poncho
• Watch
• Canteen or bottled water
• Hat
• Rubber Slippers
Unless you are camping alone or with a companion, the following Crew/ Outfit gear should be brought
along as the situation demands:
A. Tentage
- 2 man, 4 man etc.
- Poles/pegs/guylines
B. Cooking Equipment (based on size of the group)
- Pots (4)
- Frying Pans (2 or 3)
-Serving Plates (2 or 3)
- Serving/ measuring cups (1 or 2)
- Spoon, large
- Fork, large
- Spatula or pancake turner
- Can Opener
- Carving/ paring knives
- Matches in waterproof container
- Sugar container, unbreakable
- Salt and pepper container, unbreakable
- Cooking gloves
- Plastic Food containers (3 or 4) w/ screw lids
- Roll of Aluminum foil
C. Optional Items
- Unbreakable plastic mixing Jars

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 - Extra canteens or bottled water
- Plastic bags, various sizes
- Emergency lanterns, battery operated
- Table cloth or plastic
D. Camp Tools
- Axe or bolo
- Camp Shovel
- Bow saw
- Sharpening stone
- Cord or wire
- Sewing kit
- Side cutting pliers
- Rubber boards
- Safety pins
E. Sanitation Equipment/Supplies
- Crew or Outfit size First Aid Kit
- Screw-top water Jug (20 liters)
- Scouring pads
- Bio-degradable soap in plastic container
- Paper towels
- Buckets and plastic pails
- Tote-litter bags
- Garbage bags for all kinds of non-biodegradable trash
(N.B.: Do not dig holes and bury non bio-degradable trash, the next camper after your group will not
appreciate your mess and you will contribute to the spoilage of our environment and condemning the
next generation of Scouts to have to clean up after you.)
F. Headquarters Equipment
- Philippine flag with halyard
- Crew/Outfit flags
- Dining ply
- Food chest
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Your Crew or Outfit can add to this list according to your plans.

Distributing the Load

Each Senior Scout should be able to carry his own personal gear on his back. In addition, Crew or
Outfit gear, should be equally distributed among Scouts according to their ability to carry such loads;
that is, stronger Scouts should carry more or heavier Outfit gear than the physically weaker ones.
This is the Scouting way.

Each Scout is responsible for returning the assigned equipment he is carrying to the Quartermaster at
the end of the camping or expedition.
Each Scout is also responsible for bringing a plastic bag for trash he can find and pick-up along the
natural trail so that all non-biodegradable garbage can be disposed of properly in a municipal landfill.

MODES OF TRAVEL TO CAMP

On Foot
The most common mode of traveling to a nearby campsite is, of course, by foot. The Senior Scouts
carry their own packs and hike to the site. Normally the hiking formation along trails and defined roads
is for the Crew Hikemaster to lead the way. The Crew Leader stays some 10-15 paces behind him
followed by all the rest. The Assistant Crew Leader stays at the back of the line about 10-15 paces
behind the last Scout in order to serve as the “back-up” man in case some Scouts may lag behind
during the hike.
If the campsite can be traversed by land transportation, the Crew/Outfit equipment is usually hauled in
a van or truck to the campsite ahead. However, in rugged terrain, the Crew/Outfit equipment may have
to be distributed among the hikers.

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By Banca
Traveling by banca is also a thrilling experience. It is a lot easier on the feet than hiking. Since the
Philippines is an archipelago – islands surrounded by water – travel by banca would be common in
many places.
It is mandatory that all boys shall have a floatation device (life jacket, 2 old coconut strapped together,
etc.) to prevent any tragedy. Most deaths by Scouts is drowning-related. Drowning is the most common
accident in Scouting.
A banca expedition is a little different than a hiking expedition. While you can carry a little extra
weight, do not overload the banca. After all, you have to portage your banca and your equipment, if
you have to go up inland on your expedition. Travel as light as possible, just as you do for backpacking.

If your banca has an outrigger, it is a lot safer than a banca without one. Depending on your
experiences and those of your buddies on traveling by banca, it is better to get bancas with two
outriggers. If there are no outriggers, better get bancas whose keels are long, and straight and the
bottom flat.
Practice steering a banca by a paddle. Usually, the steerman at the back (stern) of the banca directs the
path and direction of the banca.
Learn also to portage your banca on high ground so you can use it again during your return trip.
It is imperative that non-swimmers in the group have some floatation device.
By Motor Vehicle
There is no faster way to see the Philippines except by motor vehicle – a car, or bus, or rented cargo
truck. Provide for relief drivers, set a reasonable (and legal) speed limit, and have a good road map.
Your road map should show the places where you want to go and which you want to explore.

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If the area is relatively safe from bandits or evil men, bring your vehicle as close as you can to the edge
of the wilderness; but when you get there, let your legs take you beyond reach of your vehicle so you
can really see the countryside.
Some national parks all over the Philippines have good park guides for further inland or island
explorations. Take advantage of these opportunities to learn about the Philippines.

A WORD ABOUT TENTAGE

Senior Scouts can have a choice of tents to be used in a camping or expedition. You can experiment
with using all of them and later select and make one which will fit your needs.

A tent is your “home away from home.” It must do more than just keeping the rain out. It must be
comfortable inside, keeping the cold out and the heat in. It must protect you from insects, snakes, and
those little night rascals that hunt for midnight snacks in your pack. Your tent must protect your
equipment in your absence.
Modern tents are usually made of nylon material, suitably weighted, and almost all waterproofed. A
few of the common tents are described below:
The Army-Type Tent
This is the simplest shelter tent. It is of rectangular shape supported on a ridge pole; sapling, or
stretched rope, with the sides pegged to the ground. This tent has end flaps which serve as curtained
doorways and snugged down tightly at night.

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The Dome Tent
This is made of modern nylon textile and it has at least 2 flexible and collapsible fiberglass or
aluminum tent poles. It is generally very easy to set up and very secure and rain-proof.

The Mountain Tent

This is a more expensive type of tent when extreme lightness is paramount for easy back packing
together with stability in high wind situations.

The Trail Tent

This is made of a flat piece of waterproofed cloth, three meters square with ties as shown on the sketch.
It can be set up in many forms, used for a ground cloth, or even doubles as a sail for a banca.

If you want to make one, you need 10 meters of inexpensive unbleached muslin or sack cloth or plastic
sheet, 1 meter wide, and about 15 meters of 2-cm. Cotton type. Cut the cloth into three equal lengths;
sew them together along the long edges using a double fold scam. Afterwards sew in the tie patches and
ties as shown, making the ties of 50-cm. pieces of tape folded and sewn into a cylinder or “lace.”
Some Senior Scouts want to have their trail tents colored before waterproofing. If you do, use color-fast
dyes (such as Joe Bush dyes). Place the contents of 2 small packs of Joe Bush dyes in a large vat or
drum of 4 gallons (16 liters) of boiling water and stir for 2 minutes. Then wet your tent first in cold
water before you place it in the vat containing the dye so that the cloth will absorb the coloring evenly.
Let it stay in the dye for about 10 minutes, then remove without wringing and hung the trail tent under
a shade.
The Ranger Formula for waterproofing is, as follows: Dissolve 1/4 kilo of alum (tawas) in 4 gallons
(16 liters) of boiling tap water. In another vessel, dissolve 1/4 kilo of sugar of lead (lead acetate) in 4
gallons of boiling tap water. Let both solutions stand until clear, then combine both in a large container
and again let stand for 4-6 hours. Pour the clear liquid in another large container and in it soak your
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tent, working with a stick instead of your hands since the lead is poisonous. Then squeeze out (not
wring), stretch, and dry. This kind of waterproofing will shed rain water and resist embers and sparks
from the campfire.

The Half Pyramid Tent

Another tent you can try making and using is the half pyramid tent. Being a modification of a miner’s
tent, it is light, easily handled, and can be set up with only 1 pole and 6 pegs. As shown in the drawing,
this tent can be made from 3 meters of. materials, cut and sewn. The dimensions in the drawing are in
feet, however, since some Filipino stores still sell cloth by the yard rather than by the meter.
The Forester’s Tent
This tent is a good “cold weather tent,” having an open front facing the fire, yet with flaps if desired a
shown. The pointed hood (optional) gives added protection from rain and gathers/holds heat from a
reflector fire.
The Hickory Tent
This type of tent has good headroom at one end and a wide storage space at the other end. The slope
sheds a heavy rain and will also act as heat reflector for a night fire during cold weather. If you want to
make this tent, you will need 66 meters of cloth materials sewed edge to edge in 3.3- meter lengths.
The ground cloth is 90 cm. to 1.8 meters.
The Baker Tent
This is a 2-man tent popular in the wilderness because it is easy to make, carry, and set up. You can use
canvass to make one. Use a flat seam for joining; round seams for serving the end panels to the back,
roof and awning, and a simple hem for all edges. To join the end panels to the back and roof, start from
the lower back cover of the wall.. Sew reinforcing patches on the out- side wherever there is a pull
from a peg or guy rope.
Other types of tents are now in the market and you may wish to. buy instead of making one. Of course,
buying takes the thrill out of making one and prevents you from learning a new Senior Scout skill.

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LOCATING A GOOD CAMPSITE

During the past years, our tropical rain forest was largely untouched and the land was teeming with
wildlife roaming free, Scouts in those days have no problem looking for a suitable campsite. But as
years rolled on, virgin lands gave way to Industrial development, trees were felled to give way to
farmland, the forest got smaller and so are favorite camping sites for Scouts. Clearly there is a need to
cultivate proper conservation attitude among people to preserve what’s left for future Scout’s use.
As you hike along, keep your eyes open for a suitable. The ideal campsite must have trees, water, grass
covered ground, gently sloping terrain, protection from bad weather, and affords a good view of the
surrounding. In selecting a campsite, especially during rainy season, always avoid natural hazards like
river bed and water run-off area.
Do not pitch tents directly under trees, since water from tree leaves overhead will continue to drip long
after it stops raining. Besides, heavy branches or even whole trees can come down in stormy weather.
Be sure your tent is not pitched on very steep grounds; otherwise, you may wake up in the morning
outside your tent or funnier still your whole tent may be wrapped up all around you and your friends
will laugh at a “suman” Scout.
Spend time in planning the layout of your campsite. A smart Crew or Outfit will take a good look at the
total area, using keen observation to pick .the logical locations for the dining area, kitchen, latrines, and
tents. Check also the prevailing wind direction, possible weather changes, and terrain. When camping
beside a river or stream where you will get drinking water, check about 500 meters upstream to make
sure that the water is safe to swim in. Be sure to always bring water filters, or purification tablets to
make sure of the safety of drinking water.
If you are camping with the whole Outfit, make sure that the Crew/s are camped together close enough
for good camp management yet far apart enough for independent Crew responsibility.

Setting up Camp
As soon as you have decided where to put things, the whole group or Outfit should pitch in to do first
things first.
Whether it is raining or not, the first thing to do is to set up the dining fly or tent for the protection of
all packs and equipment and personnel. When the dining tent is up, then the packs can be opened and
all equipment can be readied for use.
It is a good idea when you are camping as a Crew to divide yourselves into 2 groups – the tenting
group and the cooking group. After designating and agreeing on the general area to be used by the
Crew, the tenting group under the Crew Leader can then pitch all tents and dig latrines, while the
cooking group can take care of the cooking area, get firewood and water, dig the wet pit, set up the
trash receptacles, and start the cooking fire. With every camper doing his share, the total job of setting
up camp should not take longer than three quarters of an hour.
Senior Scout Outfits camp differently from the younger scouts. While they may camp or cook by
crews, they do not set up tents in formal alignment. Tent occupants usually pick their own locations in
the general tenting area of the campsite. Factors on pitching tents on loose or sandy soil is better than
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gravel or rocky ground.
If a public toilet is not available nearby, dig a latrine trench about 20 cm. wide, 1 meter long, and 40
cm. deep. Place the sod nearby so you can use it to cover excreta. Keep away from trees to avoid roots.
If possible, locate it in a secluded area downwind; otherwise, establish privacy by putting a tarp or
canvas around the latrine. Place toilet paper nearby with a plastic bag over it to protect it from rain.
Also, hang a lantern near the latrine to mark its location at night. Don’t let flies find excuse to assemble
in the latrine area. Remember, A SCOUT IS CLEAN. Also do not put plastic material in the latrine.
Toilet paper is biodegradable and is therefore OK to include with human excrement.
Camp Beds
If you are staying only overnight in a place, start by finding a fairly level spot, remove stones and sticks
that might poke you. Do not remove dry leaves they will cushion your bed and lessen your impact on
the campsite {the simplest (and most comfortable) way of sleeping on soft sod is to scoop out shallow
holes for your hips and shoulders to fit into}. Then spread out a ground cloth over it and roll up in a
warm woolen blanket or sleeping bag.
Another is, if you have a sleeping pad, lay it on top of the ground cloth and arrange your sleeping bag
or blankets on the pad.
If you are camping longer, you may want to make a browse bed as long as you are in the deep jungles
and where tall grasses (such as talahib) are abundant. DO NOT CUT DOWN BRANCHES just to
make a browse bed. It is against environmental conservation practice nowadays. A browse bag can also
be made out of poncho or ground cloth folded like a bed and stuffed with dry leaves, straw, or dry
grass.
You can also make a straw mattress, using a camp loom and rice straws or talahib.
If you have an army stretcher canvas, you can bring it to camp (minus the wooden poles) and use it as
stretcher bed. This is very comfortable and will also give airspace between the ground and yourself.

Low-Impact/NO-Trace Camping
The modernization and development of our nation have turned majority of our vast tract of lands into
industrial and commercial sites. What used to be the home of a variety of animals and plants were
converted into farms and residential areas. Dams have tamed many rivers. Trees have become lumber.
Animals are in the verge of extinction. Unless we do something and preserve what is left of our forest,
we will suffer the wrath of nature. The wilderness that we use in camping and expedition is the only
land that is left for us to protect. This land gives us clean water to drink, freshens that air we breathe.
When you want to get away from the city, you have the freedom to enjoy the beauty of nature, to
experience the serenity of the forest. With that freedom comes your duty to care for the land. This
means that you have the moral obligation to preserve and conserve everything you find there; enjoying
the outdoors, learning from it and then leaving it just as you found it. Scouts call this low-impact
camping. As Scouts we must learn how to hike and camp without leaving a trace.

Breaking Camp
A good rule to observe in camping and expedition is “Make sure that you leave a campsite better than
when you found it.” If you follow this rule, it will earn you a welcome back.

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Brush off any dirt or leaves from your camping gear before you pack them. All improvised structures
should be taken apart and the poles scattered naturally or piled, according to the wishes of the property
owner. Natural materials used for ground beds should be scattered instead of leaving them piled.
Carefully replace sod removed including the grass on top of it. (If you were careful in digging ditches
and trenches such that the grass can be turned over and preserved as you dig, you will have little
trouble returning it on the dug areas).
All pits should be covered. Latrines should also be covered and an “X” sign with 2 crossed sticks
should be placed over the covering to prevent others from digging in the same spot later.
All non-biodegradable trash in camp and around your camp should be placed in plastic trash bags and
carried out of the campsite and disposed of in a proper place such as the sanitary landfill of the
municipality.
Do not leave buried trash in the camp group as this will surely destroy the campsite for future use.
Don't leave pegs in the ground. They are hazards. Have all pots and pans thoroughly cleaned before
they go into the packs. Dry all tents and canvas before storing them. In case you break camp in rainy
weather and the tents are wet, lay them out to dry at your Outfit Head-quarters before putting them
away.
Before leaving the camp, have a once-over glance. Be sure there are no canny wrappers, cigarette butts,
etc. scattered around the camp. Leave nothing behind except your thanks. Remember the wise advice of
a veteran camper –

“Let no one say –

and say it to your shame,
That all was beauty here
until you came.”
“But let everyone say –
and say it to your fame,
That all is beauty here
because the Scout came.”

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Chapter 9: Backwoods Engineering

No one can call himself a true Senior Scout unless he has the skill of a backwoodsman. Improvisation
has always been a byword for ‘creative’ Scouting.
Backwoods engineering is the art of making and constructing improvised camp gadgets and at the same
time improving the environment. Proper knowledge in making good use of nature’s resources to
improve one’s environment in camp while enhancing the overall ecological balance starts with the
skills in ropework. Then knowledge and skills in the use of the Scout knife, bolo, and axe are essential
in doing pioneering projects.

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TYING THE RIGHT KNOTS

It is important to know what knot to tie for what purpose and how to tie it properly.
Scouts need to know how and when to use knots in hiking and camping, for setting up tentage and
improving camp life, and in pioneering or boating, or airmanship.
Scout knots have three basic characteristics:
l. They are easy to tie.
2. They are easy to untie.
3. They hold fast when under strain.
4. They are suited to the job.
In the olden days, primitive man used vines, tough tree barks, and plants twisted together, and even
strips of animal hides and leather to fasten things together. Today, ropes, cords, and twines are the more
modern means to attain the same end. Farmers and fishermen use them frequently.
Rope Making. When a few fibers are twisted together towards the right, they form into yarn. A few
yams twisted together to the left form a strand. Three strands twisted together to the right form a rope,
and three ropes twisted together to the left form a cable.
Thus, a 30-centimeter rope may have as many as 300 individual threads and the force of each thread
straining against the others gives holding strength to the rope. If you separate the ends of a rope, you
will notice that its ends will fray and gradually unravel. It is necessary, therefore, to “whip” the ends of
the rope.
To whip the rope ends, make about 5 or 6 turns of yarn about 2 cm from the rope edge towards the end,
pulling each turn as tightly as possible. Lift the end B (see illustration), then make several more turns
until about 1 centimeter from the rope edge. Lay the other end of the whipping yarn (E) as shown and
continue to wind over it for 4 or 5 more turns. Pull end E until the loop is drawn under tightly. Cut off
the ends of both B and E to finish the whipping.

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KINDS OF KNOTS

There are many kinds of knots used for various purposes. They can be grouped into the following,
according to purpose:
A. End knots. End knots are tied at the end of ropes to prevent the whole rope from being pulled
through a pulley block or a hole. The overhand knot, figure-of-eight knot, and stevedore knot are end
knots.
• Overhand knot – the simplest end knot.
• Figure-of-eight knot – used not only as end knot but also for tying packages.
• Stevedore’s knot – used as end knot for slippery ropes.

B. Knots Used for Joining Lines. You use these knots when you want to join two pieces of rope
together, even of unequal diameter. The common knots for joining are the square knot, sheet bend, and
fisherman’s knot.
• Square knot – used in tying bandages.
• Sheet bend – especially used for tying two ropes of unequal diameter.
• Fisherman’s knot – used for tying two nylon cords or fishing lines.
C. Hitches. These are knots which are used to anchor or tie an object to a post, pole, or ring. These
include half-hitch, 2-half hitches, clove hitch, taut line hitch, rolling hitch, timber hitch, manharness
knot, highwayman’s hitch, scaffold hitch, and marlinspike hitch.
• Half-hitch – temporary hitch around an object.
• 2-half hitches – used to moor a boat, or anchor a clothesline.
• Clove hitch – for starting and finishing most lashings.
• Tautline hitch – to tie tent guy lines. Can be loosened or tightened with the line under strain.
• Rolling hitch – also called pipe hitch. Used to lift cylindrical objects in vertical position.
• Timber hitch – used for hauling logs.
• Highwayman’s hitch – used in going’ down steep ravines or tall trees and then retrieving the
rope.
• Scaffold hitch – used in holding up scaffoldings of both ends.
D. Shortening Knots. These are knots that are used to shorten ropes that are too long instead of cutting
them. The common ones in this group are the sheepshank and the dogshank.
• Sheepshank – shortening a rope whose ends are not free.
• Dogshank - –hortening a rope whose ends can be passed through the shank’s loops.
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E. Holding Loop Knots. These knots form permanent loop according to the size they are carrying, or
“running” loops to adjust to varying sizes. The loop knots include bowline, French bowline, Spanish
bowline, and the rover noose.
•Bowline – used for rescuing or lifting conscious persons.
•French bowline – used for rescuing or lifting unconscious persons in a sitting position.
•Spanish bowlines – used in looping around cylindrical objects (e.g. bottles, drums, etc.).

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SPLICING AND LASHING

Splicing is the weaving together of rope strands to protect a rope from fraying, to join two ropes
together or to create an eye in a rope end.
The long splice is used to join two ropes of the same diameter and allows the joint to pass through a
pulley block.

The back splice is superior to rope whipping and is permanent.

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The short splices also used to join two ropes and can be made faster, except that the joined part might
not pass through a block.

The eye splice is a permanent loop at the end of a rope which is used for mooring or anchoring around
a post.

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 LASHINGS
The square lashing is used in tying together two perpendicular spars. The diagonal lashing is used in
preventing diagonal braces from spreading apart. Shear lashing is used to join parallel spars meant
apart flagpole, for instance. Tripod lashing is used to lash together three spars to form a tripod. Floor
lashing is done when you want to tie together several spars side by side to form flooring such as on a
raft or a cabin.

Lashing is the process of binding two or more spokes together without nailing. It may be a square
lashing, diagonal lashing, shear lashing, tripod lashing. The illustrations show the use of each lashing
and how each lashing is done.

USE OF KNIFE, BOLO, AND AXE

With knife or bolo and axe you can do many creative and constructive things during hikes or in camp if
you know how to use and care for them.
Your knife or bolo must be always kept sharp because a dull or blunt one is dangerous to the user, the
work, and the bystanders. Hone your knife or bolo on fine stone to a smooth, thin edge that will not
show when held edgewise to the light. Draw it tightly across the edge of a sheet of paper. If the paper is
cut smoothly, it is sharp enough.
Keep your knife or bolo dry and do not stick it in the ground. Keep it away from fire. Keep your
folding knife folded and your hunting knife or bolo sheathed when not in use. Do not play around with
your knife or it may hurt you or other people.
A knife may be used for whittling wood to carve objects such as a neckerchief slide, for instance. It is
also used to prepare food or to make a fuzz stick for fire building.
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On the other hand, a Scout axe is basically for firewood cutting. A one-half kilo axe head is right for
your use. Of course, you must always keep it sharp like your knife by using an ignition file, the kind
that garage mechanics use to remove corrosion from spark plugs and contact points. Cradle the axe in
your lap and run the file away from you over the toes of the cutting edge. Work both sides of the blade.
Afterwards draw the cutting edge across a piece of wood to remove wire edge.
In using the hand axe for splitting small pieces of firewood, place the stick against a log and hit it at an
angle to the grain exactly where it touches the log.
To split wood, place the axe blade in a crack with the grain, lift both axe and wood up and bring them
down on the chopping block.

At present, it is prohibited by law to cut down large or even growing trees, so you have to be contented
in logging already-felled trees. You can “lop” the branches of a felled tree by chopping towards the top
of the trees. Stand on the side of the trunk opposite the branch you are cutting. Afterwards, you can
“log” the tree trunk; that is cut the trunk into suitable lengths – each not more than twice the thickness
of the tree; Use V-cuts on one side of the log until about 3/4 of the thickness of the log. then, slice on
the other side until the tree is completely cut.
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In addition, the following rules must be observed in using your knife and axe.
A. When Using Your Knife or Bolo –
1. Whittle away from you to prevent injury.
2. Beware of wood with nails in it.
3. Do not drive a knife into a stick by hammering on the back of it.
4. Keep your knife out of the fire.
5. Keep the blade clean; scald the blade before cutting food.
6. Do not carry an open knife in your hand.
7. Do not use the blade as a screwdriver or to pry things open.
B. When Using Your Axe –
1. Never chop in such a position that the axe will cut you if it slips.
2. Never chop through wood on a hard surface.
3. If you are carrying an axe on your shoulder, the cutting edge should be outward from your
neck; otherwise if you stumble, you might be killed.
4. Always, cover the axe head when traveling. When carrying the axe by the hand, grasp the
handle close to the axe head with blade down and outward.

CAMP FURNITURE
With your knife or bolo and axe and your knowledge in knot-tying and lashing plus some spare time,
you can make some camp conveniences to make you more comfortable in camp, especially if you are
staying for more than two days. You can make benches, hanging shelves, washstands, or a hammock or
swing. A camper should never be idle in camp, since there are a hundred and one things to do between
meals.
You can save and use discarded tin cans, twine or rope, paper, vines, leather thongs, and other things
which ordinary people throw away. Besides helping in preserving the beauty of the environment, you
can use these discarded materials to make camp life more exciting, Of course, after they are used, your
camp gadgets should be dismantled and then buried (especially tin cans) or else they should be brought
home to be used in your Senior Scout Headquarters.

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PIONEERING PROJECTS
When you are on a Good Turn Hike or an Environmental Conservation Camp or simply doing it out of
necessity, you can build emergency bridges, water dams, emergency shelters, rafts, snares, fish traps,
tree bark utensils, and other similar pioneering projects.
Bridge Building
In building a bridge, you must select the site of the bridge carefully. Will the bank be washed away by
erosion? Will driftwood jam against the bridge?
Build where the stream is straight, never at bends. If you plan to put trestles or posts, build them on
hard or rocky bottom, not on soft mud.
Light Pole Bridge. This bridge is good for shallow water. Make enough shear legs to support the bridge
every two meters across the stream.
To make shear legs, lash two 5-cm. diameter poles together about one meter from the top with shear
lashing. Then put a horizontal brace using a pole across the butt end with square lashings. Then lash a
shorter pole to the fork to form a footway and another to one of the pole tops to form a handrail. You
have made one complete bay. Make two of these bays – one on each side of the stream.
Set the first bay on solid ground, anchoring the shore ends of the footway and handrail with guy ropes.
Then pass out the second bay and put it into position in the other side of the stream. A line rigged to the
base of the shear pole will help you a lot. Lash to bay number one at once. Note from the drawings how
the guy lines are anchored to the ground.
Test the bridge by crossing it. Go over all lashings carefully. It is a good idea to weight down the butt
ends of the shear poles by crossing the bottom poles with short logs and weighing them down with
stones. If the bridge is shaky in a lengthwise direction, lash braces from the footway to the shear poles,
keeping the lower end as high as possible to avoid being fouled up by driftwood or other branches
floating in the stream.

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Monkey Bridge. Once you cross this kind of bridge, you will agree that it is for the monkeys, because it
swings and sways all its own. But it has been used in many parts of the Philippine jungles as an
emergency bridge. A lot of them can be found in the Cordillera Administrative Region and in the
highlands of Mindanao and Palawan.
Use a foot rope at least 2 ½ and the two rope handrails about one centimeter in diameter. Cross the
shear legs about 1.25 meters from the upper tips. Spread the legs about one meter and set them into
holes in the ground. Anchor the lines to natural objects nearby, such as trees or big rocks, or drive
stakes firmly into the earth about 2 ½ meters behind the shear legs.

Lay out next the foot and hand ropes. Beginning at the center, lace lighter rope or binder twine as
shown using clove hitches. These zigzag lines should be about one meter apart at the centers and
gradually spaced to about 1 ½ meters apart towards the ends.
Be careful to secure the footrope tightly since that will be the one to hold up the weight of anybody
crossing. If necessary, tighten the footrope using a block and tackle. Check all lashings, the shear legs
foot and the anchorages before letting the first man across.
Straddle-bug or Slanting Foot Bridge. This is a basic form of bridge consisting of a series of “horses”
connected by a walking platform. This bridge is especially suitable in swift current as the bug legs soon
become buried firmly at the bottom. If you have an auger drill, the job becomes easier. Bore two holes
into the bug log at an angle to each other, cut" and neatly taper two saplings and drive one into each
hole. (If you have no auger, lash 3 poles to the bug log using tripod lashing).
Make enough bugs to reach across the stream and stretch the platforms between them. Use logs of three
different diameters as platform, placing the thickest one first with the slenderest one on the highest.
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Stringer Bridge. For short spans, this simple permanent bridge is the best. It can be built to carry a cart
or automobile.

First, make log sills, one on each side of the river or stream, using a hardwood setting them in shallow
trenches and covering with rocks. Then make 2 stringers by flattening two logs on top with your axe.
Place them on the sills and spike them well on both sides. At the end of the stringers, you need a
retaining log – a split log with the flat side spiked into the ends of the stringers to keep the rock fills in
place.
Cross the stringers with plankwood or puncheon or small poles and spike or lash them all to the
stringers. Set up a guard rail, if so desired.
For bigger loads, increase the number and size of the stringers.
Lock Bridge. Using the simple stringer bridge design, the lock bridge allows you to cover a greater
span try the use of supporting diagonals as braces. Be careful to “foot” all diagonals very well on the
bank, in a rock pit if possible, and above the stream water line. The illustration will show you the
details of this bridge, since the construction procedure is similar to the stringer bridge.
Emergency Shelters
Shelters in the wilderness can be made with materials abounding in the area. You can use talahib or
cogon grass or even nipa leaves for roofing thatches. Always lock the leaves together and tuck them
into the frame- work to prevent them from being blown by the wind.
Fallen trees or those shattered by lightning make good shelter roofs. Split them into long thin slabs and
lay them on your shelter like roof shingles, the top one overlapping the lower one, and you have a fairly
tight roof in rainy weather.

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Rafts
The Filipinos’ emergency water transport is a raft. It is makeshift and temporary at best. It tips and tilts
and sips water, but it is better than nothing and sometimes saves lives.
You can make a raft using banana trunks, or bamboos lashed together. The coracle raft (see illustration
of emergency rafts) is a modern version of an old stunt. Peg out a rounded shape smaller than your
waterproof poncho or ground cloth. Fill between pegs with dry twigs and small Wood and lash them
together with rope or twine. Tuck a stout webbed stick floor into the bundle and remove the form pegs.
Now slide the bundle into your poncho and lash the poncho securely all around and you have a fairly
good little raft that can carry you and a few kilos of belongings.
Another way is to fill up the halves of pup tents with dry sticks and lash them into “sausage-like”
cylinders by tying the ends securely. Lash about 6 to 8 of these sausages to light spars, cross-braced,
and you have a buoyant raft.

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Fishing Twine and Rope
Fishing twine used for fish lines, fish nets, or fish traps is made from tough vines or peeled fibers of
some tree barks. Gather some fibers and tie them together at one end with an overhand knot. Then twist
them around each other to make a fishing twine (see instructions on rope-making in an earlier section
of this Chapter).
Fish Traps. Negritos catch their fish by setting a baited basket into which the fish swims and, as it
nibbles the bait, springs a simple trigger and, aided by a sapling on the shore, is hoisted aloft ready for
broiling.
Fish Hooks. Fish hooks can be made with animal or fish bones, hardened in fire. For large fishes, the
upper bulb is essential ‘but for smaller ones, a notch in the lower one is enough. Bait with worms or
grasshoppers, or live frogs. If you add a bright feather, clam shell, coin, or button, it will lure lapu- lapu
and similar fish varieties.
Fish Spears. Fish spears are popular in densely-populated fish areas. Their purpose is not necessarily
to kill but to catch; hence, a barb of some sort should be provided. The ideal spear must puncture surely
and deeply, but will resist withdrawal. See illustrations for the examples of fishing spears.

Snares and Traps

If game food still abounds in the forest you are staying, you can trap them using certain methods. Your
snare or trap should be big and strong enough to with- stand the weight of the wildlife you are trying to
catch.
Open Snare. This is the simplest of all small game snares. Simply place a suspended loop of stiff twine
in a known runaway at a height enough to engage the animal's head and neck. Since wild animals do
not back away when alarmed but rather dash forward, they soon are “hung” as their struggles tighten
the noose.
Hanging Snare. Attach an o sapling which is held in place by a trigger device, as illustrated.
Deadfalls. Some larger animals such as wild pigs are best caught by a log or stone downfall. This is a
simple “figure-4” baited trigger which, since the animal is attracted by the bait, allows a heavy weight
to fall upon and crush it.

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Conservation
Before you leave this chapter, a little reminder about Conservation. As a Senior Scout, you stand as a
friend of the environment and a traditional enemy of needless and wanton destruction of the wildlife
and the ecological balance of nature. You should carefully observe Philippine national and local game
laws and conservation ordinances.
A real Senior Scout does not destroy living trees, he fishes and hunts for emergency food. He guards
against forest fires always. Practicing Backwoods Engineering does not excuse him from breaking any.
law or rules of decency and good citizenship. Perhaps the only excuse is that he must live under
emergency conditions, which may justify his departing from the laws of civilized men.

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Chapter 10: Survival

In the afternoon of July 16, 1990, everyone in Nueva Ecija, Tarlac, Pangasinan, Dagupan City, La
Union, and Baguio City was up and about in their usual business – not knowing that disaster was about
to strike. Life in those provinces has been relatively peaceful – idyllic, you might even say – with
people going about their work.
Then at 4:26 o’clock in the afternoon, a very strong earthquake rocked that entire section of the
country. Measuring Intensity 7.8 on the open-ended Richter Scale, it lasted for 45 seconds destroying
thousands of houses and buildings, killing hundreds of people in Nueva Ecija and Baguio City, and
rendering more than a million people homeless. There was no electricity for more than a week – even
up to one month in some portions of the affected areas – and drinking water became a very real
problem. As though with a sweep of the hand, everyone in the area returned to almost primitive stage of
life. All the people had only one common thought in mind: SURVIVAL.

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On June 12, 1991, Mount Pinatubo in Zambales erupted. Dormant for more than 600 years, it spewed
forth tons and tons of volcanic ash and lahar (ashes carried by floodwaters) covering thousands of
kilometers of land area with ashfalls reaching as far as the Bicol Region, Southern Tagalog. The winds
carried the ashfall also as far as Europe. There was no electricity, no water, no shelter, for days.
What was described above were only two of the many natural disasters that had happened and may
happen again to our country in the future. Disasters are not predictable. They can happen anytime – day
or night. We must always BE PREPARED for them.
As a Senior Scout, if you happen to be in those places, how prepared are you to survive?
There are also man-made disasters – fires, getting lost in the wilderness, falling into ravines, a car
accident, a plane crashing into the mountains, and a dozen other possible things that may happen to you
or your family and friends where your knowledge of, and skill in, SURVIVAL may spell the difference
between life and death.
To survive means “to continue living” (from Anglo-French: sur = above ; vivere = live). It means
victory of life over death. Most of us are close to disasters one time or another. One moment things are
working out fine; then all of a sudden, someone has a broken ankle, an accident, the weather changes as
we are hiking. A sudden rain comes and you slip and fall into a deep ravine; we find ourselves lost in
unfamiliar forest – and suddenly things are different. At first, it may not look serious, but things begin
to happen which you have not planned for, and suddenly you realize that you are alone, lost or adrift,
cut off from civilization, your conveyance wrecked, your radio is dead (or electricity is gone for good).
Now you are on your own – and you need help.
How long will you be in your emergency situation before help arrives? Or, will it come at all? Can you
manage to survive until help arrives?
Very many people in a survival situation have no training for it. But, you – a Senior Scout – must train
and prepare for any emergency, both physically, mentally, and morally.
Disasters can be averted and emergencies can be avoided if you take time out to think of possible
things that may happen (before they happen) and do something to prevent them from happening. For
instance, when you go out on a hike, the authorities must know where you are going and how long you
will stay out. You will make them happy just by telling them your possible whereabouts because they
are the ones who will probably look for you in case you do not return on time. It is your responsibility
to anticipate the hazards you may encounter and to take proper precautions against them. Practice this
always even if others will laugh at your over-concern or try to talk you out of doing these precautions.
After all, you are the one who may get lost, not they.
“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”, said American philosopher Benjamin Franklin
some 300 years ago. So, do some prevention measures before anything untoward happens.
Even so, it is still possible to find yourself in a desperate situation in spite of all these precautions. So,
it is not your own fault. But in that desperate situation, your responsibility is to survive and to help
others to survive.
Let us, therefore, look at some key problems in survival and some solutions that may be useful in many
instances.

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THINGS NEEDED TO SURVIVE
In survival, there are two basic things needed: what you know and can do, and what you have. First,
you have your physical strength, your mental powers of thinking and reasoning and knowledge of
improvising plus your positive attitude. Add to these your special survival skills learned in Senior
Scouting and you have already more than one-half of what you need to survive.
There are also many physical resources around you which you can find and, with a little ingenuity and
creativity, can utilize them to your advantage. The trick is to fit what you have with what you know and
can do in order to fit to your survival needs.
A lot of skills mentioned in the previous chapters of this Handbook will be very useful to you during
emergency situations. The important thing is to practice these skills often so that they become
automatic to you when they are needed.
Lost
Let us say that you found yourself lost in the wilderness and you can’t find your way back. You know
that it will take some time (maybe days) before rescuers will find you. You assume that you will be
missed beyond the time you are expected back and that rescue is coming.
What are you going to do?
Well, perhaps the best Way is to STOP and sit down. Try to figure out just what kind of situation you
are in. Relaxing your mind even for a few minutes and fighting off any feeling of panic will certainly
help. Praying may be a good idea at this point.
Then try to retrace your steps back to the nearest spot you can remember before you got lost. If you do
find it, then your chances of getting back to civilization are greater. If, however, you cannot retrace
your steps, the next best thing to do is STAY WHERE YOU ARE. Going around or walking to and
from may only result in your getting lost some more.
See how the following things might fit into your situation at the moment in order to survive until rescue
comes: Signals to searchers or rescuers: improvised shelter to protect you from the elements; water to
sustain your life; fire for signaling; cooking, and warmth for protection; food for energy; tools to obtain
food. In that order.
Let us tackle each one.
Signals
Making your position known for searching rescuers is the goal of signaling. In the forest only two
methods of search is possible: air search and ground search. Air search is the fastest way, so make your
location known as soon as possible. Send out signals at once to show location and, if urgent, your
condition.
The best signal is, of course, by radio. Smoke is second best during the daytime and fire at night. A
good long-distance signal device is a mirror (or even a bright metal can lid) to sweep the horizon often
during daytime. It may be seen by aircraft or even by hunters and woodcutters nearby. Attention getting
devices are superb. Try anything that resembles a large flag contrasted with the background of trees.
(Anything white, for instance, against the dark green trees). Do anything to disturb the “natural look”
of the area to make people aware that someone is there.

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Radio. If you have a radio on hand and it is working, you may want to send a “Mayday” or distress call
with the hope that somebody outside will pick it up in his set. You can say:

This is Scout “Mayday! calling anybody

who can hear me.
Please respond.”
If somebody answers, then you can give your general location, particularly stating some very
prominent landmarks around you (e.g. a large white rock, a tall tree without branches on a hill, etc.). If
your radio is on CW status, you can send message by Morse Code.
You can also send Morse signals by interrupted light or sound – by flashlight, lantern, mirror, horn,
whistle or flag. The S.O.S. is a universal distress signal (••• /— - - / •••). Body signals will send direct
messages to a visible aircraft.
Ground-to-air signals can be made in an open area. Tramp out sand as big as you can to form these
signals. Or line up stones or twigs or branches of trees to show these signals. Burn grass or turn over
sod. Lay out any material (clothes, tents, etc.) that can be seen from the air. These signals will work
even if you are asleep or sick. When you are rescued, destroy them.

Shelter
While waiting for rescue to come, your next concern is to seek shelter. Depending on where you are
and the terrain of the place, you can decide what to use as shelter. You can use a cave, a log, a tree, a
big rock, or whatever is on hand to provide windbreak or shade. The important thing is to get out of the
sun, the wind, and/or the rain. If it is necessary for you to dig because that is the only way you can get
sheltered – then dig.
However, don’t knock yourself out and waste your energy building a very elaborate “home away from
home.” You are not going to stay there longer than it takes to get you rescued. Rocks, overhang, or
caves can provide shelter; just add screening of boughs or branches with leaves to impose it. (However,
check on previous tenants in caves; they may resent sharing it with you.) A large log or a huge
“blowdown” may screen one side of you and you can crawl under the roof poles laid on it.
You can also prepare a lean-to from dried branches of trees; Use two tree trunks or two forked upright
to support a ridgepoles. Use also your knowledge of lashing to secure rafters slanted to ground and
cross poles to hold leaves, grass thatch, or polar leaves.

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Fire
The best chance of having a good smoky signal fire is by having dry matches. The only way to have
matches you can use (even during wet weather) is by bringing matches soaked in paraffin and ample
dry tinder soaked in paraffin, too.
A Senior Scout should be prepared for emergencies by keeping a Firestarter’s handy at all times.
Firestarter’s such as waxed bundle of matches, waxed cardboard coil, a candle stub, a cube of wax-
soaked insulating board (cardboard) are very necessary especially during rainy season.
However, save your matches by trying primitive fire-making (fire by friction or fire flint and steel)
first. Collect kindling as you walk around. Keep a small fire going; in fact keep several small fires
around you for warmth instead of a big one.
Dry tinder is going to be a problem during rainy season and you should prepare and bring some in your
“survival kit.” (How to make a survival kit emergency; kit will be seen at the last section of this
(chapter.) birds’ nests, dry weed tops, mouse nest, charred cloth, or dry paper.
You should know different ways of making fire with different kinds of materials since not all materials
are available in your site. For instance, if you have 2 dry cells (1.5 Volts each) and steel wool, you can
produce incandescence and produce flame. If you have a binocular, or camera lens, or anything with a
convex lens to focus the rays of the sun on tinder you can also produce fire so long as there is a bright
sun.
Protection
Protect yourself from biting or stinging insects. Bring an insect repellent in your survival kit (insect
repellent can be bought in many drugstores throughout the Philippines) and rub it on your exposed skin
to protect you from mosquitoes and other forest insects. Smoke also deters them. Treat bites and stings
as mentioned in the Chapter on Trail First Aid. Do not scratch, since infection may occur. Check your
shoes and clothes for scorpions and spiders before putting them on.
Sunburn can be very serious, especially if you are in or near water. Bare feet are very vulnerable. Seek
shelter or stay clothed. If you are forced to stay under the sun when working, cover your head with
neckerchief, bandana, or T-shirt to shield your ears, eyes, neck, nose.
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Dry your feet as often as you can. Even your socks and shoes must be dry. Tie your trouser cuffs over
your shoe tops to keep dry. If your feet get numb, white, soaked, and wrinkled, you are in danger of
getting immersion foot unless you can find a way to get your feet dry and warm very soon.
Water
Your next concern should be your water supply. If there is a stream or spring nearby, it should not be a
problem. However, check the source of the water upstream to make sure there is nothing that will make
it poisonous. One Scout saw a stream during a long hike and, due to thirst, he immediately knelt down
to drink. Luckily, his companion pulled him back in time and pointed to some 20 meters upstream
where a dead poisonous snake laid in the water.
Don't waste your time looking for food if you are not yet assured of adequate water supply. You can last
for weeks without food if your health is good, but 3 days without water and you die. In extremely hot
areas, you must have water within a day or two at most or will easily get dehydrated.
Few hints will help you during emergencies:
1. Don ’t put off drinking whatever water you have but try to find new sources immediately.
2. If you must ration the water supply you have, make sure that you drink a little at a time.
3. Never, even in extreme circumstances, drink alkali water, sea water, or urine. They are all
poisonous. It is possible, however, to evaporate them and condense freshwater for drinking by
using a makeshift solar still.
A solar still can be made by following these directions:
“Dig a pit 4 feet in diameter by 3 feet deep. Put a shallow container in the center. If possible, rig
a tube (softdrink straw, for example) from this up to the pit. Stretch clear plastic over the pit,
with a rock in the center to form a cone directly over the container. Any kind of water poured
around the pit will help. Solar heat evaporates water that will condense on plastic and rip into
the container. Draw water through the tube to avoid disturbing the solar still. Make several stills
if these are your sole source.”
4. Avoid loss of body water through generating or worked dehydration. Even if uncomfortable,
wear clothing. Stay in the shade.
5. Your best sources of water are, rain, ground water, dew, succulent plants [papaya stalks} sap
of trees and vines (never drink milky sap of any sort), and fruits — all depending on the season
and your location. Green coconut milk is good.
6. In rocky area-, look for pools of standing water or seepage in limestones, for instance. Dig in
dirt near any plant or vegetation and see if water will seep into the hole. Do not bother digging
in areas where there is no sign of dampness, except in streambeds or obvious dry springs.
7. Rain that is caught in clean containers are safe to drink. Put out shells, coconut shells, plastic
sheets, or anything that will catch rainwater.
Food
You can get food, even in areas where you think food is available.
Wherever you are, there should be some sort of food – plant or animal. You may find some of it to be
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strange, others you may not dream of even eating at all – but this is survival, so eat.
Plants are nearly everywhere and most are edible. If you see fruits from strange looking trees being
eaten by birds, they are edible for man. Root crops are also edible.
With few exceptions, you can eat anything that walks, crawls, swims, or wiggles. Only animals can
provide your needed protein intake – 3 ounces a day.
Make emergency hunting and fishing gears and use them to catch your food. Make snares and traps for
frogs, mice, lizards, snakes which, if caught can be boiled or broiled.
Tools
It may take you days, even weeks or months, before you are rescued, you should prepare for food to
last you the waiting time by hunting and fishing for food.
Use snares, traps, and deadsfalls to trap your food. See the chapter on backwoods Engineering for
details on how to construct these.
Try to set traps in identified animal trails; check for signs for animal droppings, animal fur, or signs of
kill. Areas near water holes, meadows, clearings, or near swamps are possible sites for trapping. Also
the most likely time for hunting game is from dusk to dawn when other animals are hunting.

When You Are Rescued

At last, you are rescued! What a relief! What should you do?
First, you must thank your rescuers for giving their all-out efforts to find you. Were it not for this
perseverance, you will still be lost and trying to survive.
Second, remove all signs of your having been there. Clean the area; remove or bury things that may
destroy the ecology of the area.
The only ones you will leave behind are signs and field marks indicating danger areas and possible
physical pitfalls that can guide future men who may unconsciously venture out to that area.
To survive means to '”live on.” It is a matter of life over death. Therefore, you must always be “Laging
Handa” for any eventuality or accident. Preparing yourself involves also practicing survival
techniques, approximating real situations. Knowing survival techniques and being skillful on them will
give you enough confidence that, should the real thing happen, you can rely on yourself to live through
it. That is the basis for morale and this is the most important single factor in survival.
Survival Kit
Finally, you should know by now that to be fully prepared at all times, you should carry with you
certain valuable and essential survival items which should go into your “survival kit.” Your survival kit
container should be waterproof and small enough to fit into your pocket, if possible.
Your kit should contain:
• Emergency food (bouillon cubes, instant noodles etc.)
• Matches waterproofed with nail polish
• Tightly rolled paper soaked in paraffin, as fire starters
• Compass
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• Whistle, to let searchers know where you are
• Small mirror (for signaling)
• Razor blade
• Fishline and hook
• Fine string, 3 meters long
• Pen and paper for messages
• Aluminum foil
• First Aid Supplies
• Adhesive tape
• Bandages
• Water Purifiers
• Scout Knife
• 6 feet plastic tubing
• 2 pcs. 6x6 plastic sheets
• small flashlight

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Chapter 11: Swimming and Water Safety

There is one activity that is never left out especially during Summer Camps and that is SWIMMING. It
is one way of cooling-off after a whole day’s work. It also leads to developed physical fitness
benefitting the heart, lungs, and muscles generally.
However, swimming isn’t as easy to learn as A-B-C, it takes time. Swimming is very important to
every Senior Scout. The Scout Motto says, LAGING HANDA. But then, how can a Senior Scout be
prepared to rescue someone who is drowning if he does not even know how to swim? That is where
this chapter comes in! By the time you finish reading this chapter, you should be able to know the
basics in swimming, safety rules, and water rescue.

SAFE SWIM DEFENSE

Do you want to know a secret? Do you want to know why reports of drowning in a Boy Scout Summer
Camp are scarce? This is with a special thanks to a special defense system called “Safe Swim
Defense.” This system is composed of 8 steps: adult supervision, physical examination, safe swimming

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area, life guards, look-out, ability groups, buddy system, and discipline.
Step 1. ADULT SUPERVISION. So you think “older” people do not exist in Summer Camps, huh?
Well, that is where you are mistaken. It is in Summer Camps that “older” people are needed most to
take charge of the “younger” ones. But don’t feel so bad. They are only there to supervise, A well-
trained adult swimmer or his helper must be around during a Scout Swim. He must have qualified in
water safety training.
Step 2. PHYSICAL EXAMINATION. Swimming isn’t all that bad once you get the hang of it. You
just have to live with it. But before you do anything else the first thing you’ve got to do is to make sure
you are physically fit. Have an annual physical examination. It always pays to know how your body is
doing. Most cases of drowning are suspected, and is proven, to be caused by weak hearts, fainting
spells, and many other physical differences. So have a doctor examine you before you take that plunge
into the water.
Step 3. SAFE SWIMMING AREA. We don’t call this Safe Swim Defense if the area itself is not safe.
Before a swim, a group of Senior Scouts should check out the water for hazards and mark the area
where swimming is safe. A good 2 meters for non-swimmers; i.e., swimmers who are just beginning;
just over the head for beginners, and deep water for swimmers.
Step 4. LIFEGUARDS. Even though the area has been checked thoroughly, one way or the other
accident can still occur. Senior Scouts who post as lifeguards are strong swimmers. They stand near the
shore with a life-line ready to help a drowning victim. During a drowning incident, the first one grabs
one end of the line and jumps into the water to the victim while the other one holds the other end and
pulls the first one and the victim to shore.
Step 5. LOOKOUT. A lookout plays some of the roles of a lifeguard or an adult supervisor. His job is
also to supervise. However, the lookout stands where he can see and hear everything and enable him to
yell out orders to the Scout swimmers. Do you want to know why he is called a lookout? The reason
here is when a big wave is about to come your way he yells, “LOOKOUT!”
Step 6. ABILITY GROUPS. In Summer Camp, you don’t swim with a professional swimmer if you
are just a beginner or a non-swimmer. Before a swim, each Senior Scout is grouped based on his
swimming ability. Non-swimmers are just learning so they are placed in the shallow area. Beginners
are those who can swim 20 meters while swimmers are those who can swim a good 200 meters and can
float. Swimmers are not allowed to go beyond their ability group area.
Step 7. BUDDY SYSTEM. Another thing you must remember whenever you go swimming – NEVER
swim alone! Even a very experienced swimmer can get into some kind of trouble and it also pays to
have someone with you to lend a hand. In a Summer Camp Scout swim, not only are they grouped
according to their ability groups; they are further grouped by twos. This is called the “BUDDY
SYSTEM.”
In the Buddy System, a Scout is paired with another Scout with the same swimming ability. They are
supposed to look after each other. They swim approximately 5 meters from each other and check on
each other every 2 minutes or so. Then, when the swim is almost over, at a Buddy signal, the two-some
grabs hold of each other’s hand and raises them. After a quick check, they are allowed to spend a little
more time in the water.
Step 8. DISCIPLINE. Following the strict rules given by the adult supervisor or the lookout leads to a
better, fun-filled experience in the water. The rules are not made to deprive you of doing something you
want to do; rather they are tips on how to become a better swimmer. Of course, you don’t realize that,
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because you are too busy thinking about how you can pull one off on the officer. But now that you
know, better stop making those devilish plans in your head and thank him instead.

LEARN TO SWIM

You have just read the eight (8) steps of Safe Swim Defense in a Scout Camp. The rest comes naturally.
The next thing you've got to do is learn how to swim first. But before that, here are some tips on how to
avoid danger and become a good swimmer:
•Don’t Be A Show-Off. When you are showing off you think as if you can do anything when in fact
you can’t. Just be yourself and enjoy your swim instead.
• Don’t Take Dares. Taking dares is as bad as being a show-off. Both will only put you in trouble. If
someone dares you to do something which you know is impossible for you to do, d0n’t mind it. There’s
more to life than braggadocio.
• Avoid Diving Into The Water Head First. Even in emergencies, always dive feet first. You’ll never
know what you may bump into in the water. Hazards such as shallow water, sharp stones or rocks, and
many others are impossible to foresee when out on the surface.
• Always Swim With A Companion. Once again here’s the rule discussed in step 7 of Safe Swim
Defense, NEVER swim alone! Don’t run that risk of swimming alone if it can be helped.
• No Running On Decks, Docks, Rafts Or Diving Boards. Some decks, docks, rafts or diving boards,
due to antiquity, are not sturdy enough to hold a body’s weight. In most cases, these collapse on weight
of pressure and you might end up injuring yourself.
• Stay In Depths You Can Handle. Application of Step number 6 – ability groups – Safe Swim
Defense. Watch out, specifically, for strong currents and big waves. Such are likely to control you and
not have you controlling it.
• Know The Rules. And obey them. These rules will protect you and not deprive you of such power or

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freedom you so desire.
Now comes the best part, learning how to swim. Through application of all you’ve learned so far, a few
more guides and you‘ll soon be swimming like a champion.
The first step in learning how to swim is to determine whether the water will hold you up. So, with
experienced swimmer standing close by, you wade into the water approximately waist deep. You take a
deep breath and wrap both arms around your legs pulling them up to your chin against your chest. This
act will make you lose your footing but do not be alarmed; you will not sink or drown, if you just stay
calm, you'll float. This is sometimes referred to as “jellyfish float.” You will bob up and down like an
easygoing jellyfish in the middle of the ocean.
Next, is the breathing lessons. Breathing in water is different from breathing on land. It’s as different
night and day. When you breathe on land, air enters and exits through your nose. When you breathe in
the water, it also requires the aid of the mouth. You take air in through your mouth and hold it as you
immerse into the water (about waist-deep for starters). Then, slowly, very slowly, breathe out through
your nose. Do this over and over again but this time count the number of seconds your face were
immersed in the water. At the beginning, it should be at least 10-15 seconds but as you continue
practicing it, the time span should soon reach a minimum of 1 minute or more. When this happens
you’re ready to start gliding in the water.
Gliding on water is easy. When you know how to glide, just a few more lessons and tricks and you will
feel as if you’ve been doing it all your life. So, with your arms stretched ahead of your head, you take a
deep breath. And plunge into the water using your legs to push you off the sea bottom. When you had
accomplished this, just relax your whole body and enjoy the glide.
Once you have perfected the glide, you’re now ready for the swimming strokes. There are three (3)
easy strokes for beginners. These are:

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• Leg Kicks. Follow the steps given previously on the execution of the glide. When you are already
gliding, instead of continuing to glide in the water, start kicking with your legs. Move your legs up and
down alternately while your arms are maintained on its former position – above your head. While
executing leg kicks, always member to kick from the hips not from the knees. Keep your legs always
straight as you kick.
• Arm Strokes. Starting with a glide and with your legs straight behind you, swing your arms
alternately, with the hands in cupped position (like spoons) down to your hips.
• Legs And Arms Dual Power. To develop into a more stronger swimmer, practice the leg and arm
strokes together. It will strengthen the muscles on your arms and legs which may enable you to swim a
good 50 meters or more. This is also referred to as the “American Crawl.”
“Elementary Backstroke.” The elementary back-stroke is one of the easiest to execute.
Take a deep breath and let yourself float on your back with the legs dangling from the knees in the
water. Arms are spread out on the side, hands in cupped position, and stroking the water in a downward
position. Just one stroke will travel a long distance already. That’s why it is useful in swimming a great
distance without tiring.

WATER RESCUES
Even with the strictest observance of swimming rules, still an accident can occur. When that happens,
we have to be on guard. If you suddenly see somebody drowning while passing by a lake, do stay calm
and decide what to do.

There are four (4) ways to rescue a drowning person. These are the “reach,” “throw,” “row,” and “go,”
in that order.

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• REACH. Sometimes a person drowning is just near the shoreline and can easily be rescued by either
extending a hand, a leg, a pole or a twig/branch while holding on with your hand at something strong
enough to act as support as you reach out to the drowning victim.
• THROW. When a drowning victim is too far out in the water to be reached, an option would be to
throw a life- saving buoy or a rope. Most swimming docks or decks should have a life-saving buoy
hanging where it is accessible when incidents like this happen. When a buoy is not available, a rope
with a loop in the thrown end would be just as useful.

• ROW. If you are not a strong swimmer, another option for rescue is to jump into a sturdy boat or raft
on the shore and row! This is also termed as “going with support.” Once you are a good 2 or 3 meters
from the victim you ease up on the rowing and approach the victim along the safest part of the boat or
the raft. The raft’s safest part would be on the side; in a row boat, it would be the stern side. Once
accomplished, have him reach for a rope attached to the craft or an extended paddle and help him up on
the boat. Then row back towards the seashore.
• GO. When none of the above is possible, the only thing you can do is go into the water yourself and
swim towards the victim.
Before jumping into the water you must take of your clothes first, while keeping a close watch on the
victim. This is to enable you to swim swiftly and freely. If you jump into the water – clothing and all –
the water will soak the material and you will end up doubting your swimming efforts because of the
heavy load of clothes. Thus, it will slow down the rescue.

Stripping off your clothes should not take more than 30 seconds. Every second is important and you
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must make every “TIK!” of the clock count. Practice stripping off your clothes fast regularly a number
of times, such as every night before going to sleep, etc.
Dive into the water feet first with a shirt clenched between your teeth. When you are close enough to
the victim, throw one end of the shirt to him and pull the victim to safety. However, you must not
attempt to do this if you are not a strong swimmer.

Strong Swimmer’s Rescue

To be able to swim a great distance is already a big accomplishment, but what good would it do if you
do not know how to rescue someone who is drowning.
This section of the chapter covers the skills necessary for a strong swimmer’s rescue in connection with
one of the approaches for water rescue – the GO approach. A Scout who is a strong swimmer and who
possesses such skill won’t have any trouble conducting an actual rescue. So, you’d better start
practicing right away. You’ll never know when an accident will take place.
In a drowning accident, follow these few simple steps:
Strip off your clothes and while keeping your eyes on the victim leap far out and up into the water with
your legs wide apart.
Then, snap your legs together and bring your arms down fast and hard after you hit the water feet first.
Level off and swim out over to the victim. Approach the victim from behind. Reach over to his
shoulder, grasp his chin, pull his chin under your towing arm.
Sometimes when the victim has already swallowed a lot of water, he eventually becomes unconscious.
In matters like these, use the hair carry to tow the victim, especially when you must go a long distance,
to shore. Take a firm grasp of his hair with your entire hand. Then, use a side stroke to bring him in.
Another method you can use for rescuing an unconscious victim is the front surface approach. This can
be used when the victim is bald and hair carry is impossible. This is done by swimming in and grasping
his band. Shift your grasp firmly to his wrist after doing so. Using the wrist, tow twist him around so
that he is face up and tow him ashore.

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Usually, when the victim is in panic he will eventually try to grab you, In situations like these, use a
straight-arm push to keep him away. Then, swim around him, and get hold of him from the rear.
When the victim is suffering from exhaustion, the best method to use is the tired swimmer’s assist.
Have him float face-up, his hands on your shoulders. Float with breaststroke movement to safety.
One last thing to remember: Never attempt the strong swimmer’s rescue if it can be helped or if you are
not properly trained for it.

Chapter 12: The Merit Badge Scheme

Merit Badges give you a chance to add to the skills you learn and apply in Scouting. They give you a
chance to try out several activities so you can discover which of these you like best and which interest
you most. You will also discover your natural abilities and be able to choose your future career.
For example, some Scouts who like first aid later became doctors. Some who like to take care of plants
became agriculturists.
So there is a good reason for you to try to earn Merit Badges besides just learning new skills and
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advancing in your Scouting.
So take it seriously. There are many people who are ready to help you – your Outfit Advisor, their
Assistants, and the Merit Badge Counsellors.

Steps in Earning a Merit Badge

Some Merit Badges are required – you have to earn them. Others, are electives - you can select from a
certain grouping called Specialist Ratings.
1. Determine what Merit Badges are required.
2. If it is an elective – select the one that interest you most from the group. If you cannot make a
choice, ask your Outfit Advisor for advise.
3. After you have identified the Merit Badges you need or want, tell your Outfit Advisor. He
will help you fill up the Merit Badge Application Form and sign it.
4. The Outfit Advisor will tell you who your Merit Badge Counsellor is and he will introduce
you to him.
5. You will have two or more meetings with your Merit Badge Counsellor.
a. he will explain the subject and teach you everything he knows. He will suggest books or
pamphlets you can read. He will also assign you a project to do by yourself at home, on your
own time. If at anytime you need his help, he will be available.
b. During the second meeting you will bring your completed project and the Counsellor will
talk to you and try to find out if you have really studied and complied with the requirements. If
he is satisfied that you know the subject, he will sign your Application Form and certify that
you have earned the Merit Badge. If he is not satisfied, the Merit Badge Counsellor will ‘advise
you what to do and ask you to try again. You may have other meetings with him until he is
satisfied that you deserve the Merit Badge.
6. You return the Application Form now signed by the Merit Badge Counsellor to your Outfit
Advisor who will then submit it to the Board of Review.
7. Present yourself at the Board of Review. Be -sure to bring with you the required projects or
assignments you completed pertaining to the Merit Badges you are applying for.
8. In due time you will be presented your Merit Badge at an appropriate ceremony.

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CAMPING

To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:

1. Show his Counsellor and Outfit Advisor the following:
a. Preparing for camp: clothing and equipment and how to pack them.
b. Camp shelter and sanitation, including tent pitching.
c. Precautions to be taken on a Crew/ Outfit camp.
2. Make a camp lay-out and prepare a plan for a week-end camp including a schedule of
activities; submit these to his Counsellor. With the members of his Crew/ Outfit discuss the
Camp plan in the presence of the Outfit Advisor and his Counsellor. Carry out the camp plan.
3. While in camp, do the following:
a. Make a comfortable ground bed and sleep on it. Use ground cloth and padding of
clothing, grass leaves or straw.
b. Make a camp table, a tripod for suspending camp supplies, clothesline or other camp
conveniences using proper lashing techniques.
4. Show and explain the proper method of storing and protecting his food and equipment
against small animals, insects, and wet weather.
5. Tell how he could protect himself against wet weather and cold while in camp.
6. Camp a total of at least 20 days and 20 nights in the out-of-doors. (He may use a week-end
camp and/ or a week of summer camp as part of the 20 days-20 nights) Submit reports to his
Outfit Advisor and Counsellor of his participation only 15 days and 15 nights of the above
required camping days. Which should include the following:
a. Sketches of the campsites.
b. Schedule and details of activities in camps.
c. What he did or learned in camp, and
d. Experience in the camp, which developed his character, his health, his self-reliance
and his harmonious relationship with other Scouts.

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CITIZENSHIP IN THE COMMUNITY

To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:

1. Prepare a written outline of the history of his community including such known information
as who the first settlers were, when they came, important historical events, and people who
figured prominently in the growth of the community.
2. Mark or point out on a map of his community:
a. Principal government buildings.
b Fire station (fire brigade), police station (outpost), hospital or puericulture center,
schools and churches.
c. Main highways and/or feeder roads to neighboring cities or towns.
d. Nearest railroad and/or bus station, pier and airport, if any
e. Chief industries (principle sources of income or livelihood)
f. Historical spots and or other points of interest.
3. From newspaper, radio, forums, or other sources of public information and discussion, gather
opinions on both sides of a public issue and give his own idea on it.
4. Draw a diagram of the organizational structure of his provincial or city government, showing
its executive, legislative, and judicial branches, and tell briefly what each branch performs.
5. Do two of the following:
a. Draw a diagram of the organizational structure of his barrio, town, or city government
showing the top officials, courts, and administrative department. Indicate who among these
b. Know and. tell how to do at least SEVEN of the following in his community:
1) Report a fire.
2) Report a vehicular accident.
3) Call a physician and/or ambulance.

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 4) Report damage to electric power, gas, or water supply system.
5) Report damage to or need of repairs on streets, roads, bridges, or sewerage system.
6) Obtain a bicycle license.
7) Have your dog vaccinated.
8) Have a garbage disposal in the community (construction of a composite pit in the
community if there is none)
9) Report a mad dog scare.
10) Report contagious diseases.
11) Obtain a building permit
12) Obtain help from a representative of the agricultural agency in his locality.
13) Report to the authority the commission of crime such as robbery, theft, burglary,
illegal cockfighting, gambling, etc.
14) Report to the authority traffic violation.
15) Report to the authority election violation.
c. Visit one department of his local government and report on what services it offers for the
community; OR attend a court session or a public meeting of a government body and report
what takes place.
d. Know how much it cost to run his local government for one year; how this is obtain and for
what it is chiefly spent. Tell what kind of taxes his family pays in meeting this cost.
6. Discuss with his family or Counsellor in what ways Scouting helps to train him for
citizenship and give examples of democracy at work in his Outfit.
7. Take an active part and vote regularly in election of officers and matters of business in his
Outfit, school and other groups to which he belongs.
8. List and briefly describe the work of several civic organizations other than the Boy Scouts of
the Philippines through which people of his community work together for the general welfare
by way of serving the youth, safeguarding public health or safety, disaster relief, care of
orphans, aid to the poor, providing recreational facilities, promoting good business or better
farming, improving labor conditions, or general civic improvement.
9. Do ONE of the following:
a. Identify the principle political parties or faction of parties in his community or
province, and explain briefly their points of view on one public issue of which they
disagree.
b. Describe at least one vocation opportunity offered in his community in some form of
public service. Tell what personal qualities are needed for the job.
10. List and explain at least five privileges and forms of protection he enjoys as a citizen in his
community, and describe his obligations to the community.
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 11. With the advice of his Outfit Advisor and Merit Badge Counsellor, plan his own program of
community service, and give at least 10 hours of his time in carrying it out; or give 1O hours of
community service in a project carried out by his Outfit.

CITIZENSHIP IN THE HOME

To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:

1. Discuss with his parents (or teacher) and Counsellor:
a. The meaning of citizenship.
b. The importance of the home in the training of a Scout for citizenship.
2. Submit a statement from his parents or other people who are familiar with his conduct at
home, evidence that he practices good citizenship at home by being courteous, fair and helpful
to members of his family and that he puts into practice the Scout Oath and Law, Scout Motto
and Slogan. (A suitable certification form must be made available for filling the above
requirement)
3. Prepare a list (at least five) of his regular home duties for at least one month and keep a
record on how often he does them.
a. Make or have a garbage segregation in the home
b. Recycle materials from the garbage that are still useful in the home. (like: dustpan,
dipper, flower pots, etc.)
c. Identify garbage materials that could be exchange for money, like: bottle, old
newspaper, etc.
4. Discuss with his family or Merit Badge Counsellor his rights and obligation in his family.
5. Do the following:
a. Make a health and safety check-up of his home and help his family correct as many
hazards as possible.
b. Prepare with his family a plan of escape in case of fire in his home.
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 c. Tell how to get help in case of accident, illness, fire, and other emergencies in his
home.
6. Do at least one major Good Turn for his home out-side of his regular duties.
7. Make a budget and keep a record of his own income and/or allowances and expenses for two
months. Explain why it is wise to live within one's means.
8. Submit a report on a family group activity that he helped to plan, prepare for and carry out.

CITIZENSHIP IN THE NATION

To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:

1. Read the Constitution of the Philippines and:
a. Explain its purpose as set forth in the preamble.
b. Draw a diagram to show the organization of the Philippine Government into three
branches as provided.
c. Describe and explain the purpose of the system of checks and balances.
d. Tell how the constitution may be amended.
2. Present newspaper or magazine clippings showing instances on how at least three of the
privileges in the Bill of Rights have been protected in our country, or how they have been set
aside in countries under totalitarian rules.
3. Take part in a group discussion in his Outfit, school, family or any other Outfit, on an
important national problem. (Garbage Disposal; Drugs, Youth Delinquency, Pollution, or
anything of Global concern)
4. Do ONE of the following:
a. Visit the National or Provincial Capitol, or a National project which serve his
community, province or region; or a place associated with a person who had figured in
the history of our country. Prepare and submit a brief report of his visit.
b. Correspond with someone preferably a Scout who lives in another region of the
Philippines. Exchange ideas, descriptive materials, hobby items, e.g. stamps, Scout
insignias, etc.

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 5. Give the names of the President of the Republic of the Philippines, the Vice—President, the
President of the Senate, the Speaker of the House of Representatives, the Chief Justice of the
Supreme Court, any Senator, and the Representative from his District in Congress. Tell how to
address a letter to each of them at their respective offices.
6. Indicate to which branches of the national government any ten of the following list fall:
National Parks
National forest and wildlife protection
Fish Protection
Flood Control
Investigation of violations of National Laws
Judgement of such violation
Issuance of Currency
Appropriations for government expenses
Foreign Policy
Soil Conservation
Child Welfare
Settlement of sparsely Populated Areas
Fundamental Education
7. Describe five ways by which the National Government serves him, his family, and his
community.
8. Present his birth certificate or other legal evidence of his citizenship; OR, if foreign-born
learn what a person must do in order to become a Filipino citizen.

ECOLOGY

To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:

1. Explain the meaning of the following; ecology, biosphere, ecosystem, plant succession,
limiting factor. Give an example of the last two.
2. With the help of his Counsellor, pick an area of 3 hectares‘ for study.
3. Visit the area four times for 2 hours each time. Do this at different times on one day of the

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 week at different times of the day.
a. Record the temperature, rain, and wind.
b. List the animals he saw. Tell what they were doing.
c. List the plants he saw.
d. Name the kinds of rock and soil.
4. Write about his study in 500 words or more showing:
a. How the climate, topography, and geology have influence the number and kinds of
plant and animal.
b. How the living and non-living elements are interrelated. Why it is important that
people understand this.
5. With his Counsellor, plan and carry out a project on ONE of the following:
a. The effect of water-holding capacity of soil on plant life. The relation of plant cover to
run-off. How both are related to water and oxygen cycles.
b. The influence of land plant life on temperature, light intensity, wind velocity, and
humidity. The influence of water plant life on the water environment. How both land
and water plants affect animal life.
6. Make a report, in the form of a short talk to a Scout group, on what he did in requirement 5.
7. Show he understands the following:
a. The causes of water pollution. Tell what it does to rivers and lakes.
b. The causes of land pollution. Tell what it does to the environment.
c. The causes of air pollution. Tell what it does to the environment and the atmosphere.
8. Describe the duties of three positions in environmental science.

City Scouts may pick an area in a large park, if a better place is not available.

EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS

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To earn this Merit Badge a Scout must:
1. Earn the FIRST AID Merit Badge.
2. Tell what he would do to prevent injury and possible loss of life to him- self and others in
each of the following situations: Fire or explosion at home or in a public building, car stalled in
a secluded place, motor vehicle accident, mountain accident, food poisoning, boating accident,
search for lost person, gas leak, earthquake, flood, typhoon, lightning, and landslide.
3. Demonstrate and explain how he could safely save a person from the following situations:
a. Touching a live electric wire.
b. A room-filled with carbon monoxide or other fumes or smoke.
c. Clothes on fire.
d. Drowning using non-swimming rescues (including river, sea or beach accidents).
4. Tell the things a group of Scouts should be prepared to do, the training needed and the safety
precautions to be taken for the following emergency situations:
a. Crowd and traffic control.
b. Messenger service and communication.
c. Collection and distribution of services.
d. Group feeding, shelter and sanitation.
5. Demonstrate the following:
a. Three ways of attracting and communicating with rescue planes and helicopters. .
b. The proper use of ropes and lines for rescue work by doing the following:
a) Tie knots for joining lines, shortening or adjusting lines and lashing.
b) Lower a person from a height sufficient to show how a rescue is done.
c) Coil and accurately throw light and heavy 50- foot heaving lines.
6. Prepare a written plan for mobilizing his Outfit for emergency service. Prepare an
“emergency kit” for use by his crew or his family.
7. Be a member of an Emergency Service Corps.

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FILIPINO HERITAGE

To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:

1. Write a biography of at least five Filipino heroes or great men, explain to his Outfit what
outstanding work ' they did for our country that made them great. Describe any of their personal
virtues or qualities that are worth emulation by the youth.
2. Cite at least five (5) literary works written by Filipino heroes or great men. Explain to his
Outfit the significance of each of these literary works. Select at least three (3) passages/ ideas
from each which he thinks are still relevant today.
3. Compile and relate to his Outfit ten (10) Filipino traditions that are worth emulating. Give
reasons why they should be emulated and preserved.
4. compile and recite to his Outfit twenty (20) Filipino proverbs: explain at least half of them.
5. Recite a poem written by his favorite Filipino hero or great man in an Outfit meeting and
explain the meaning of the lines or phrase of the poem.
6. Take part in a Crew or Outfit activity or any project honoring the memory of Filipino heroes
or great men.
7. Visit any historical place or shrine connected with Filipino heroes or great men. Make a
written report of the visit to his Outfit Advisor.

FIRST AID

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To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must;
1. Show the correct way to:
a. Transport a person with compound fracture of the forearm; head injury; spinal column
injury.
b. Apply splints for a broken thighbone.
c. Explain the dangers involved in the transportation of an injured person even before the
injury is known.
2. Show how to:
a. Stop bleeding from a ruptured varicose vein in the leg.
b. Control arterial and /or venous bleeding on the wrist and calf of leg and other parts of the
body.
3. Tell and show what to do in the following cases:
4. Tell what diseases or germs are likely to be found in a gunshot wound,‘ stab wounds, wounds
caused by rusty nail, pitch pork or garden rake, or powder burn; explain why the patient in such
cases must be taken to a physician for treatment.
5. Show how to:
a. Sterilize a small piece of cloth or part of his shirt if he has to use it as an improvise bandage
or dressing.
b. Treat extreme shock, using cover, correct position and heating devices.
c. Give a patient external massage.

LIFE SAVING

(These test must be performed before a Counsellor who is a certified water safety instructor of the
Philippine National Red Cross)
To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:
1. Earn the Swimming Merit Badge. ,

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2. Do the following:
a. Spend at least six hours in preparing and practicing-lifesaving skills.
b. Surface dive into open water, 2 to 3 meters deep, recovering various objects three
times, and a 5-kilo weight once.
3. Show the following:
a. For two times, remove his street clothes in 30 seconds or less. (Street clothes means
socks, shoes, trousers, barong/shirt/sweatshirt).
b. The correct approach to a drowning person who is in the following positions:
1) Back to Scout – Back approach
2) Face to Scout with head above water – underwater approach
4. With the help of a buddy and a subject, show the following rope rescue (reel-in rescue) both
as line tender and as rescuer:
a. As Rescuer – carrying the looped end of a rope 20 meters long, ½-centimeters in
diameters across his shoulder and chest, make a running or leaping entry into the water,
swim 20 meters to struggling subject, and tow him ashore with the rope.
b. As Line Tender – chain knot rescue line. Tie and place loop around rescuer’s shoulder,
pay out rope and pull rescuer and subject ashore.
5. Keeping in sight a struggling person enter the water feet first and –
a. Swim 10 meters, make correct approach, and tow victim 10 meters to shore with cross
chest carry.
b. Swim 10 meters, make correct approach, and tow victim 10 meters to shore with hair
carry.
c. Swim IO meters, make correct approach, and tow victim 10 meters to shore with
collar or wrist carry.
d. Swim 10 meters, make correct approach to tired swimmers carry and push him 10
meters to shore.
6. Do the following:
a. In water at least two meters deep, show how to block effectively and avoid attempts
of a struggling person to grasp him around the neck with right arm and with both arms.
In each case, show how to tow him to shore.
b. In water at least two meters deep, show to disengage himself from any of the
following grasp:
1) Wrist
2) Front head hold
3) Rear head hold
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 4) Arms around the body, at the front, below the armpit.
5) Around the body from the back.
c. Demonstrate resuscitation for two minutes using the Cardio-Pulmonary Resuscitation
(CPR).

PHYSICAL FITNESS

To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:

1. Submit the evidence of his general medical examination done within the year. State what has
been or will be done to correct conditions needing remedial measures.
2. Do the following:
a. Have himself examined by his dentist. Tell how to care for his teeth.
b. Tell about his daily health habits and the care of his skin, hands, fingernails, toenails,
eyes, ears and nose.
3. Explain how to ventilate a sleeping room properly. Give the number of hours of sleep needed
by a person of his age. Explain why a person should sleep by himself and what distance should
separate his bed from the others. Explain and show proper breathing and how it affects health.
4. Explain the following:
a. HOW disease is spread by drinking water, common drinking cups, dirty dishes, and
dirty dish towels, soiled bath towels, unpasteurized milk and personal contact.
b. The essential foods for the daily diet of a person of his age and why he should
observe good eating habits.
c. Diseases against which he may be immunize or protected.
d. How the use of alcohol, tobacco and drugs can be harmful to him.
e. The value of clean moral habits to general health.
5. Do the following:
a. Record his best scores in the following test: push- ups, jump-reaches, run-walks and
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 sit-ups.
b. Set goals to reach during the next 30 days.
c. Do daily exercise and keep a record for 30 days or until his goals are met.
6. With his Outfit Advisor and Counsellor, accomplish the following physical fitness test. (Earn
a minimum of not less than 200 points which must come from not more than five events):
PFT. N0. I. SWIMMING (50 points maximum)
A. 15 meters speed swim-5 points for each second faster than 25 seconds.
B. Distance Swim-50 points for swimming 500 meters, 25 points for swimming 250
meters.
PFT. N0. II. ARM STRENGTH (50 points maximum)
A. Pull-ups – 10 points for each pull up.
B. Push-ups – 2 points for each push-up.
C. Archery – 5 points for every bulls-eye.
PFT. No. III. ABDOMINAL POWER (50 points maximum)
Bent-knee sit-ups – 1 point for each sit-up.
PFT No. IV. SPEED RUNNING (50 points maximum)
A. 504yard dash – 2 points for each 1/ 10 of a second faster than l1 seconds.
B. 40 yard shuttle run – 2 points for each 1/ 10 of a second faster 15 seconds.
PFT No. V. ENDURANCE RUNNING OR WALKING (50 points maximum)
A. 600-yard run walk – 1 point for each second faster than 3 minutes and 30 seconds.
B. One-kilometer walk – 10 points for each minute faster than 20 minutes.
VI. J UMPING (50 points maximum)
A. Standing Long Jump – 5 points for each inch over 4 feet
B. Vertical Jump and Reach – 5 points for each inch over 7 inches.
VII. BODY COORDINATION (50points maximum)
A. Basketball Throw – 2 points for each foot over 30 feet
B. Softball Throw – 1 point for each foot over 70 feet.
C. Archery – 5 points for every bulls-eye.
7. Explain in a discussion with his Counsellor, how a Scout can serve others by being physically
fit.

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SAFETY

To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:

1. Make an inspection of his home using a safety list checked by his Outfit Advisor and
Counsellor. Tell what hazards he found, why they are hazards, how they can be removed.
2. As a result of the inspection, list down ten (10) safety rules to be observed in his home.
3. Do ONE of the following:
a. Take active part in the safety work in school over a period of at least 10 weeks, at all
times doing his best by example and attitude, to interest his schoolmates in safety
activities. OR
b. Build a Cabinet for the safe and proper storage of medicines or poisons or a suitable
playpen for a baby or recommend a safety device for the home or the Outfit and with the
approval of the Counsellor, make such a device.
4. Show or tell:
a. How he would make himself visible while walking on the road at night; on which side
of the road he should walk, day or night and why?
b. A good knowledge of local traffic regulations and basic rules of the road.
c. Correct way to carry a full-sized bolo.
d. How to handle, carry and store various kinds of farm tools in the home or shop safely.
e. His familiarity with and ability to operate common types of fire extinguishers.

5. Submit and comment on newspaper accounts which he has gathered within the past six
months, describing at least three kinds of accidents due to any one of the following causes:
a. Getting on and off moving vehicles
b. Crossing streets or highways.
c. Reckless driving.
d. Failure to observe traffic laws.
6. Explain in discussion with his Counsellor or dramatize with members of his crew, what he
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 considers as the main hazards involved in:
a. Modem transportation
b. Industry
c. Recreation
d. Home
7. Tell how to deal safely with the following :
a. Wire dangling from an electric line.
b. Safe storage and use of gasoline
c. Running engine in a closed garage.
d. Three ways of turning on a fire alarm, citing the best local method and giving the
exact location of the fire alarm nearest to his home, school and Outfit meeting room and
e. Danger of firecrackers
8. Explain in discussion with his Counsellor how he can contribute to the safety of his own self,
his family and his community, as proof of his understanding and appreciation of SAFETY.

SOIL AND WATER CONSERVATION

To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:

1. Define what is soil. Explain how soil is formed. Explain the importance of conserving soil.
2. Do the following:
a. Collect and identify various kinds of rocks from which soil is formed.
b. Present samples of three classifications of soil- sand, silt and clay. Explain their relationship
with water.
c. Explain and show why soil fertility is important to soil conservation.
3. Demonstrate and explain any three of the following:
a. Why organic matter called “humus” is important to soil.
b. How living organisms like earthworms play an important role in conserving soil.

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 c. Beneficial effects of compost heap when added to soil.
d. How indiscriminate burning of grass and leaves of trees or plants and “kaingin” causes soil
erosion.
e. Name three kinds of soil, describe each and how they can be prevented or controlled.
f. Describe how a gully could be healed.
4. Make a drawing showing the water cycle and explain. Explain why a disturbance in the water cycle
is a threat to man.
5. Show and explain three (3) of the following:
a. The importance of water to man.
b. The disastrous effects of water pollution to man.
c. How water is polluted in rivers or streams, water for homes, farms and factories.
d. The three steps of waste water treatment.
e. What is a watershed? How removal of vegetation will affect the way water runs off a
watershed.
f. At least five (5) ways of conserving water.

SWIMMING

(These test must be performed before a Counsellor who is a recognized swimming instructor of the
Philippine National Red Cross).
To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:
1. Swim continuously for 150 meters using the following strokes in good form for the distance
specified:
a. Side-stroke – 45 meters
b. Elementary Back Stroke – 45 meters
c. Breast-stroke – 60 meters
2. Surface dive in two meters in water and recover an object from the bottom.
3. In water, two and a half (2 ½-) meters deep, while fully dressed, remove trousers, tie an
160
 overhand knot on the bottom of each leg, inflate trousers and float motionless for one (1)
minute using the inflated trousers as buoys; or while dressed as above, tread water, inflate shirt
and float motionless for one (1) minute.
4. Rest motionless in the water, or as nearly so as possible, at any angle, for one minute.
5. Enter water without sound, swim silently without splash for fifteen (15) meters (in breast-
stroke), and leave water without a sound.
6. While swimming, submerge quickly (using both surface dive, jack knife and tuck dive and
feet first method), swim three strokes forward under water, return to surface and at signal,
repeat three (3) times.
7. In deep water, remove street clothes (to include socks, shoes, trousers, shirts, sweater or
sweatshirt) and swim forty (40) meters.

WEATHER

To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:

1. Show that he knows the composition of the air, referring to both constant and variable elements of
the air, and 45%. :14 what functions each performs.
2. Tell how the following are formed: moisture, fog and rain.
3. Explain the electrical and optical phenomenon in the air, such as rainbows, -mirages, looming, halos,
lightning and thunder. Describe as many of the above as he has seen.
4. Tell the uses, construction and how to read a barometer, thermometer, anemometer, psychrometer,
wind vane and rain gauge. Make a simple weather vane. Show he knows the weather or storm signals.
5. Do the following:
a. Write a simple statement on the climate of the Philippines.
b. Tell the value of weather prediction. Write a brief account of the Philippine Atmospheric
Geophysical and Astronomical Services Administration (PAGASA) stating what daily, weekly
or monthly publications are prepared and distributed by it. Be able to interpret the chart and
graphs contained in these publications.
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 c. Keep a daily record for a month of the following: Dew or Fog in the morning; at a specific
hour each day, the direction and force of wind; the temperature and the kinds of clouds (if any)
in the sky.
6. Name some places where, during severe thunderstorms, the danger from lightning is great, and some
places where the danger is small.
7. Show knowledge of the causes and unusual origin and trajectories or paths of typhoons in the
Philippines.

WORLD BROTHERHOOD

To earn this Merit Badge, a Scout must:

1. Have an elementary knowledge of the geography, history, customs and characteristics of people of at
least three countries other than his own.
2. Correspond regularly for a period of not less than one year (write at least six letters and receive at
least replies) with a Scout of another country. (This project may be done individually or as part of an
Outfit “link-up.” Request for contacts with overseas Scouts may be made with Boy Scouts of the
Philippines, National Office, Manila).
3. Give an informative talk of at least 3-minute duration to the members of his Crew or Outfit on the
interest and knowledge gained by corresponding with or visiting a Scout of another country.
4. Do the following:
a. Tell in his own words how the Scouting Movement began, point out on a world map the five
Scouting regions and identify at least thirty countries, which have Scouting.
b. Describe and demonstrate at least three ways by which Scouts from various countries can
recognize one another (by similarities in uniforms, insignias, badges, oath and law, motto, sign,
handshake, etc.)
c. Explain the organization and operation of the World Organization of the Scout Movement
(Conference, Committee and Bureau).
5. Do any three of the following:
a. Identify the flag of the United Nations and those of at least twelve member-countries.
b. Read the preamble of the Charter of the United Nations; outline in his own words the purpose
of the United Nations Organization as set forth in Chapter I of its Charter.

162
 c. Describe the work of the specialized agencies of the United Nations.
d. Read the Universal Declaration of the Human Rights and list at least five Rights directly
related to himself and his family.
6. Do any three of the following:
a. Take part in some practical activity of an International Charter such as the collection or
distribution of relief supplies. The reception and entertainment of visitors from overseas or
assist in a project of a non-partisan organization to promote world brotherhood.
b. Camp at least five days with Scouts of another country either in his own or in a foreign
country. Keep a logbook covering the event and note down his impressions. Show that he has a
fair understanding of the culture, customs, and characteristics of the Scouts he had camped with.
c. Carry on a conversation with another person in a foreign language for at least five; translate
at least 100 words of that language given by the Counselor.
d. Keep an album or scrapbook for at least one year depicting activities of another country.
e. Relate briefly to the members of his Crew/Outfit the history of Scouting in three member-
countries of the World Organization of the Scout Movement. Draw their Scout Emblems.

Acknowledgment
Senior Scouting in the Philippines before 1974 was a very dynamic program for teenage boys. It drew a
lot of young men. “For once”, they said, “here is a program suitable for our age level” – a period in life
when these boys are eager to step into manhood, yet part of them still lingers in childhood.
The Boy Scouts of the Philippines wishes to express its sincere appreciation and gratitude to the many
people who worked hard to provide gems of ideas for inclusion-into the program, among them:
The World Scout Bureau Staff with Messrs. Jim Sharp, Director of Program, Geneva, Switzerland, and
Wilfredo B. Granada and Golam Sattar of the Asia- Pacific Regional Office, for providing direction
through the 10-Step Systems Approach to Program Development;
Regional Commissioners Romeo U. Alag, Cesar A. Catapang, Emolyn A. Corteza, and Catalino M.
Taguba, National and Regional Scout Directors, and selected members of the Training Team who
participated in the National Program Development Seminar held in November, 1990 at the Philippine
Scouting Center for the Asia-Pacific Region (PSC-APR) which planted the seed of this Senior Scouting
Program;
Dr. Cesar A. Santos, over-all Chairman of the Program Development Task Group, and member of the
Program and Training Development Committee (Now - Program & Adult Resources Development
Division) and of the panel of psychologists and sociologists for setting the guidelines and coordinating
the work of the Task Groups;
Scouters Romeo M. Akrnad, Edmundo L. Atilano, Mario C. Axinto, Rosario Bagasol, Rudy K.
Balhaman, Ernesto F. Barquio, Eliseo Calumpiano, Sergio P. Damazo, Jr., Roberto L. Empisto, Joseph
Ferrer, Victorio C. Guipo, Jesus A. Lledo, Akmad U. Mangatong, Rudito B. Saluta, members of the
Senior Scout Section Program Development Task Group; and Scouters George Adlaon, Rainier Apistar,
Van Der Vee L. Arcenas, Alberto Ayson, Rolando O. Baylongo, Ruperto G. Dumo, Jr., Loreto M. lgnao,

163
Antonio R. Ferrer, Cesar L. Gayod, Benito C. Guzon, Dick C. Kitma, Celestine Lambo, Jaime P.
Leonor, Apolinario Leyson, and Manuel A. Salazar whose participation in the Task Group meetings and
feedbacks provided fresh insights into Senior Scouting and the field input that assured the relevance of
this program;
Scouters Andres B. Baul, Eugenio C. Castaneda, Emmanuel N. Dy-Liacco, and Manuel S. Salumbides
of the Program Development Task Group and participants in the Program Development Workshop held
at the PSC-APR in October 1991 which identified the important features of the program;
The Council Scout Executives and Regional Scout-Directors who attended the 34th Annual Scout
Executives’ Conference in November 1991 at the PSC-APR, for their invaluable suggestions and
comments relevant to the applicability of the program in the field, especially to Directors Carlos DL.
Ferrer and Camilo D. Neverida, Facilitators; and Messrs. Rosauro V. Lasan and Gilberto Maspinas,
Chairman and Rapporteur respectively of the Commission Group for Senior Scouting.
The Panel of Psychologists and Sociologists, which included Drs. Crispin Domingo and Evelina M.
Vicencio for generously sharing their expertise in providing a sound basis for the program;
The members of the KAB, BOY, and ROVER Scout Section Task Groups, for their reactions and
comments that provided the articulation from one Section to another;
The Technical Committee, which included Messrs. Julito F. Berdan and Crispin G. Castro, for their
effort in consolidating the suggestions and reactions of the different groups;
Dr. Pedro O. Sanvicente, former Chairman, Program and Training Development Committee and the
members which include Ms. Prosperidad M. Arandez, Ms. Delia E. Broqueza, Dr. Hernando S. Dizon,
Fr. Jean-Marie F. Tchang and Messrs. R. R. dela Cruz, Maximino J. Edralin, Jr., Alfredo S. Israel, Jaime
P. Neric, Antonio T. Uy, for their worthy comments and open-hearted support.
The members of the Writing Team which include Mr. Rodrigo A. Duque and Ulderico A. Santos, for
putting flesh into the program framework; The following Scouters whose dedication saw the program
through its final form:
Dr. Roberto A. Delos Reyes, Chairman of the Senior Scout Technical and Writing Team and member
of the Editorial Committee and the Panel of Psychologists/Sociologists.
Mr. Rufo A. Bautista Chairman of the Senior Scout Section during the Program Development
Workshop and member of the Senior Scout Section Task Group, the Writing Team, and the Technical
Committee.)
Special recognition is due the following professional staff of the Program and Training Division of the
Boy Scouts of the Philippines for providing the much-needed technical and secretarial support
throughout the re-building of this Senior Scouting Program: Mr. Rogelio R. Vicencio, former Director
of Program and Training; Mr. Maximo G. de Jesus, former Program Executive, Task Group Coordinator
and member of the Writing Team, Messrs. Roberto G. Felix, Fergus Bonifacio, staff artists; Ms.
Rebecca D. Belandres, Ms. Ma. Luisa B. Fabian, Ms. Natividad M. Daarol, and Ms. Geraldine Gomez,
recording secretaries and computer encoders; Mr. Ruben B. Perez, mimeographer.
Ms. Melchora M. Castillo and Frederick E. Bonifacio artists/illustrators/photographer;
Special Recognition is also due the following members of the Review Committee, Mr. Rogelio R.
Vicencio, former Assistant Secretary General, Mr. Eduardo C. Delgado, Mr. Hilario Andino and
Manuel Salumbides, who painstakingly edit the whole contents to ensure of its relevance to the present
164
times.
And also special thanks goes to Aurora Council who had participated in the pictorial headed by
Governor Edgardo L. Ong, Council Chairman; Mr. Arwyn Y. Fabellon, Council Scout Executive and
his Boy and Senior Scouts Mr. Michael D. Edwards and Mr. Antonio P. Pascua, Jr., Program Assistants;
and Mr. Carmelo B. Francia, Program Officer.
Mr. Samuel C. Cribe, Training Executive and Mr. Rolando B. Frejas, Program Executive.
Mr. ROGELIO S. VILLA, JR., Director, Program and Adult Resources Development Division.
CARLOS C. ESCUDERO
Secretary General

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