EYE PRODUCTS

-Neelavro Pal
18OIL109
A) ABSTRACT
Eye product cosmetics are used to protect the skin and to provide safety and comfort, but their main purpose is as a beauty
product to make the eyes and the area around it look more attractive. There are base eye make-up product and decorative
makeup products; the former is used to hide imperfections such as stains and wrinkles, to adjust skin tone and to ass
firmness or translucence to make the skin look more beautiful. The latter are used to color and decorate the eyes or for
contouring to create more appealing-looking or attractive impressions.

B) HISTRORY OF EYE PRODUCTS

Black pigments in the form of kohl or kajal were used for centuries to darken eyelashes, eyelids and eyebrow.
The first eye make-up to exist & its formulation: Kohl, was commonly made of malachite, galena, copper, iron manganese,
and lead mixed with animal fats and vegetable oils. The first eye make container was on form of shells or small alabaster
containers after they were formulated using trivial methods. Lampblack was an inexpensive eye paint concocted by
burning a candle and collecting the black soot left from the flame. These products are often still used in rural areas of India
where expensive make up products aren’t available. Eye shadow and Mascara became popular in in the early 1900s
somewhere in London, England due to home production of cosmetics.

C) INTRODUCTION TO EYE PRODUCTS

Eyes are not only the windows to the human soul, but also a powerful tool for communication. A brace of dazzling eyes is
a sign of good looks and beauty. Since centuries, eye makeup has played an important role in highlighting the eyes. In
historical eras and time periods, different types of colors, styles and trends were used to decorate the eyes.
The Human Eye: The eye is the delicate organ in human body, with a several parts in a near-spherical structure. The
external structure of eye is given in the figure below and the areas of application are also indicated.

D) BASIC CHARECTERISTICS
• Eye product should be non-irritant, non-toxic and non-allergic.
• All products must be available in different attractive shades as per customer’s choice.
• Product should produce homogeneous color after application.
• Product should be long lasting.
• Good gliding property in eye pencils or liners.
• Latest formulations have enabled all products to have water resistant and anti-smudge characteristics.
• Dry quickly after application on the skin.
• Ease in application and remove without hurting the skin/eye.
• Adhere firmly to eyelashes and eyelids without brittleness and tackiness.
• No clumping and flakiness in mascara.
E) VARIOUS EYE PRODUCTS
1) KAJAL
2) MASCARA
3) EYE-LINER
4) EYE SHADOW
5) EYE PENCIL
6) EYE MAKE-UP REMOVER

F) TYPICAL COMPONENTS IN EYE-MAKEUP PRODUCTS

1) MASCARA:
They are used to thicken, lengthen, color, curl, and provide volume to eyelashes. Currently marketed mascaras are
formulated as oil in water, water in oil, and anhydrous formulations.
Different types of Mascaras that are available in the market based on its texture are:
 Powder Mascara
 Cake Mascara
 Liquid Mascara
Different types of Mascara based on its formulation are:
 Lengthening Mascara
 Thickening/ Voluminous Mascaras
 Curling Mascara
 Water Soluble/Regular and Water Proof/ Water Resistant

FORMUALTIONS
 STEPS TO FORMULATE:
1) Water-based mascaras are prepared by o/w emulsification process.
2) The water-soluble stabilizers/thickeners are dissolved in water and neutralized.
3) Then, other water-soluble ingredients are added to aqueous phase and heating takes place.
4) All the oily components like oil, waxes and emollients, pigments are mixed and heated.
5) Both the phases should have same temperatures and then mixed together by drop wise addition of oil in water
phase with continuous mixing.
6) After cooling the emulsion, preservatives and other thermosensitive components are added and mixed.

2) EYE LINER:
Eyeliners are formulated to contour the eyes by drawing a precise line at the base of lower and upper eyelashes. Eyeliners give
the illusion of smaller or bigger eyes, and bring out the contrast between sclera and iris. Eyeliners are emulsions consisting of
texturizers, emollients, pigments, emulsifiers and water. Polymers are added to increase the viscosity of liquid liners, to provide
texture to the formulation and also to increase the adhesiveness of product to eyelids.
FORMULATIONS

STEPS TO FORMULATE:
1) Water and thickeners are combined to make a lotion or cream base.
2) Waxes and emulsifiers are heated and melted separately, and pigments are added.
3) Then the waxes and lotion base are combined in a very high speed mixer or homogenizer.
4) The homogenizer is enclosed and mixes the ingredients at very high speed without incorporating any air or
causing evaporation.
5) The oils and waxes are broken down into very small beads by the rapid action of the homogenizer and held in
suspension in the water.
6) The high-speed mixing action continues until the mixture reaches room temperature.

3) EYE SHADOW:
Eye shadows are available in the market to add dimension and depth to the eyes, make eyes bigger and attractive
thereby drawing attention to the eye color or eye appearance.
They are designed to apply to eyelids and below eyebrows.
Eye shadows typically consist of four types of ingredients: base fillers, binders, slip and preservatives. In the market,
eye shadows are available in different forms such as:
 Crème Type
 Liquid Type
 Powder Type
 Stick Type

FORMULATIONS

STEPS TO FORMULATE:
1. The method of preparation of cream type of eyeshadows includes mixing of all phases, followed by heating.
2. Oily phase contains oils, thickeners and emollients.
3. Aqueous phase contains pigments & and preservatives.
4. After heating pearls and the pigments are homogenously distributed in the hot mixture.
5. Cool, and fill it into an appropriate case.
6. Crème eyeshadows are also available as o/w emulsions containing two phases.
7. Their preparation includes an o/w emulsification process and heating, if required.

4) EYE MAKE-UP REMOVER:

Makeup remover is a liquid formulation prepared for thorough removal of eye makeup. It contains an oily phase to
dissolve water-proof makeup and an aqueous phase to remove water soluble eye makeup thereby producing
conditioning effect to the eyelashes and surrounding area.

FORMULATION:

STEPS TO FORMULATE:
1) Eye makeup removers are formulated as per the prescribed methods for solution preparation or by emulsification
method.
2) All hydrophilic excipients are dissolved or dispersed in water with stirring followed by heating at 40°C.
3) Surfactants and preservatives are added to an aqueous phase.
4) All lipophilic components are mixed together and is heated at the same temperature.
5) The oily phase is added to the aqueous phase with thorough mixing to complete the emulsification step.
6) At last, the pH is adjusted.
G) QUALITY CHECK & QUALITY ASSURANCE
After formulation, products are sent to the quality control and assurance.
Extensive checks are conducted to ensure the quality in the following aspects.
 It should have long-term stability.
 It should be dermatological safe.
 It should have rheological properties.
 It should have high retention power.
 The color intensity should be same without any change in shade.
 It should have good pay-off in case of pressed powders.
 Loose powders should have good free-flowing properties.
 Eye makeup removers should be able to clean the skin around the eyes and remove waterproof eye
makeup without producing any undesirable effect.

H) HARMFUL COMPONENTS
1) Carbon black: It is a powder found in eyeliner, mascara, eye shadow and eyebrow shadow and has been linked to
cancer and organ system toxicity.
2) Ethanolamine compounds: Ethanolamines can be contaminated with cancer-causing chemicals called nitrosamines. To
spot ethanolamines, avoid products that contain ingredients with the letters DEA, TEA and MEA.
3) Parabens: They’re endocrine disruptors and are linked to reproductive toxicity, early puberty and breast cancer.
Parabens can also make dry eye worse since they prohibit the oil glands that line the eyelid from secreting enough oil.
4) Aluminum powder: Aluminium powder is both a neurotoxin and has been linked to organ system toxicity. Makeup
labels will list aluminum, LB Pigment 5 or pigment metal.
5) Formaldehyde preservatives: They release the chemicals that are strongly linked to allergic reactions and cancer.
Formaldehyde can be listed as such on the label but it might also be listed as quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin and
urea.
6) Prime yellow carnauba wax: Prime yellow carnauba wax clogs the oil glands in the eyes and can lead to dry eye
disease.

I) REFERENCES
 https://knowledge.ulprospector.com/7463/pcc-lashing-contemporary-mascara-formulation/
 http://www.madehow.com/Volume-3/Mascara.html#ixzz6r6EMc5bQ
 http://epgp.inflibnet.ac.in/epgpdata/uploads/epgp_content/S000833PL/P001869/M031289/ET/1527678125P11M2
7Text.pdf
 https://www.foxnews.com/health/10-toxic-chemicals-to-avoid-in-eye-makeup
 https://www.utsavpedia.com/cultural-connections/defining-traditional-vision-kohl/#:~:text=Even%20though
%20the%20terminology%20for,cure%20for%20any%20eye%20ailment.&text=This%20was%20known%20as
%20'Galena%20eye%20paint'.
 https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/potential-contaminants-cosmetics/microbiological-safety-and-cosmetics