Bulletin 4002

Revised 15 Sept., 2014

Chemical Injection Technologies

Installation/Service Bulletin

SUPERIOR Series CL-16/26/56 Automatic Switchover

Gas Chlorinator - Installation & Operation

IMPORTANT!! READ THESE PRECAUTIONS BEFORE PROCEEDING!!!

They are very important for your personal safety, and for proper chlorinator operation.
1. Read these precautions and all related instructions thoroughly and follow them carefully. If you do not understand any
of the information, call your local SUPERIOR supplier or Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc. Do not attempt to install
or operate any gas chlorination/sulfonation equipment unless you are properly trained.
2. Read the "CHLORINATOR CYLINDER CHANGING PROCEDURE" card supplied with your chlorinator, and be certain you
fully understand the information presented on the card. If you do not have the card, contact your local SUPERIOR
supplier or Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc. and we will supply one.
3. Make certain all required safety equipment is in place and operational.
4. When performing any maintenance or changing cylinders, Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc. strongly recommends
that a gas mask (a pressure-demand type air pack is strongly recommended) should be available in the immediate area
of the chlorination equipment and all operating personnel should be properly trained in its use.
5. Chlorine gas or the fumes from chlorine solutions can be lethal in large enough doses. Therefore, you should always
have a co-worker observe from a safe location when you are working on any type of chlorination equipment.
6. Avoid breathing the gas or fumes of chlorine solutions and avoid contact with your skin. Work only in a well-ventilated
area. Chlorine will bleach clothing.
7. Before working on the chlorination system, make certain that the cylinder valve is shut off. If it seems to be shut off
already, open it one quarter turn and immediately close it to make certain that the valve is not frozen in the open position.
If the valve stem does not turn easily, you may use the heel of your hand to tap the cylinder wrench. Never use a hammer
or other tool to force the valve stem. If you cannot turn the cylinder valve in either direction, always assume it is open.
BE POSITIVE THIS VALVE IS CLOSED BEFORE LOOSENING THE CHLORINATOR MOUNTING YOKE OR VALVE CAP.
If you are not sure, call your chlorine supplier.
8. Do not use wrenches larger than the standard cylinder wrench and do not hit the wrench with a heavy object to open or
close the valve.
9. Do not re-use lead gaskets. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! Do not re-use a lead gasket because used gaskets will not
properly seal the chlorinator/cylinder connection and will cause leaks.
10. Use only lead gaskets. Other types may contract with temperature variations resulting in the escape of gas.
11. Check for chlorine gas leaks every time the chlorinator is connected or remounted onto the cylinder. Using a plastic
squeeze bottle of strong ammonia, approximately a full, squeeze fumes under the lead gasket connection and around
the cylinder valve bonnet and valve stem. A piece of rag or paper towel wetted with ammonia may also be held under
the connection. Do not pour ammonia onto the valve or connection. A chlorine or Sulfur Dioxide leak will create "smoke-
like" fumes similar to cigarette smoke. Correct the leak before proceeding.
12. Open the cylinder valve ¼ to ½ turn only, and leave the wrench on the cylinder valve when it is open.
13. The rate valve is not a shut-off valve. To shut-off chlorine, use the chlorine cylinder valve.
14. Always use safety chains or clamps to secure the chlorine cylinders so they may not be accidentally tipped over.
Protective hoods and valve caps must be in place whenever cylinders are not in use.

NOTE: These instructions are also applicable to SUPERIOR Gas Sulfonators. Just substitute "sulfonator" wherever the word
"chlorinator" appears and substitute "sulfur dioxide" wherever "chlorine" appears. Parts for the two types of units, except for
the front and back bodies, the diaphragm front and back plates, and the remote meter panel bodies are interchangeable.
‡
To prevent reliquification or condensing of Sulfur Dioxide (SO2) gas in locations where the temperature may fall below 500F
(100C), sulfonator installations should be inside a heated enclosure. DO NOT apply heat directly to chlorine or sulfur dioxide
cylinders as this will cause a rapid increase in the gas pressure which could rupture the cylinder.

Pub. No. 496-1 Copyright © 1996, Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc Printed in U.S.A.
 Contents
1.0 INSTALLATION
1.1 Handling of Chlorine Cylinders
1.2 Mounting Vacuum Regulator
1.3 Installation of Remote Meter Panel
1.4 Installation of Ejector
1.5 Piping of Ejector
1.6 Installation of Pressure Relief/Vent Valve
1.6 Connecting Vacuum Regulators to Pressure Relief Valve, Remote Meter and to Ejector.
1.8 Additional Installation Suggestions
2.0 START-UP & SHUTDOWN
2.1 Check Ejector
2.2 Check Chlorinator
3.0 RESETTING TO "STAND-BY" AFTER A CYLINDER EMPTIES
4.0 TROUBLESHOOTING
5.0 MAINTENANCE & SERVICE / DISASSEMBLY

1.0 INSTALLATION
(See Drawing No. 1)

IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read "Precautions"

1.1 Handling of Chlorine Cylinders

Chlorine gas is potentially dangerous. The following rules must always be adhered to:
1.1.1 Never move a cylinder unless the valve protection cap is screwed on tightly.
1.1.2 Locate the cylinders where they will not be bumped or damaged.
1.1.3 A safety chain should be placed around the cylinders and secured to a wall or support.
1.1.4 When the vacuum regulator is mounted directly on the chlorine cylinder valve, the cylinder and chlorinator need not be in a heated room.
For outdoor installation, when temperatures exceed 1000 F., the cylinder should be shaded from direct sunlight.
1.1.5 Do not open the cylinder valve more than ¼ to ½ turn.
Note: The term "Chlorinator", as used in this publication, refers to the Vacuum Regulator, the Remote Meter Tube/Rate Valve Panel, and the Ejector
Assembly, as a complete system.

1.2 Mounting Vacuum Regulators (See Photo No. 1.1)

Follow these steps to mount vacuum regulators onto two separate chlorine cylinder valves.

1.2.1
Unscrew the valve protection cap from the chlorine cylinder.
. . . 1.2.2
Check to make sure the cylinder valve is closed. Carefully unscrew the cap nut which covers the chlorine cylinder valve outlet.
1.2.3
Remove any dirt that may be in the valve outlet or on the outlet gasket surface.
1.2.4
Remove all shipping material from the vacuum regulator. (DO NOT remove the porous, white high efficiency filter which is inserted in the
vacuum regulator inlet).
1.2.5 Unscrew the yoke screw until the sliding valve plate can be pushed all the way back.
1.2.6 Place 1/16" thick lead gasket over the chlorine inlet of the vacuum regulator. Never use other types of gaskets or gasket materials. Never
re-use the lead gasket. Replace the lead gasket each time the chlorine cylinder is changed.
1.2.7 Mount vacuum regulator on cylinder valve by placing the yoke over the valve, engage the vacuum regulator inlet properly with the valve
outlet, and tighten the yoke screw, compressing the lead gasket. Excessive tightening will squeeze the lead gasket out of the joint and 2
should be avoided. Do not open the chlorine cylinder valve until all components are installed. See section 2.0 "Start-Up".

1.3 Installation of Remote Meter Module

1.3.1 Install remoter meter panel right side up in a location that is convenient for the operator and/or affords greatest security. Connect vacuum
tubing from the vacuum regulator to the remote meter panel and from the remote meter panel to the ejector as shown in Drawing No. 1.

1.4 Installation of Ejector

(See Photo Nos. 1.2, 1.3, 1.4)

1.4.1 The check valves in the ejector are designed in such a manner that the ejector may be installed in any position.
1.4.2 The point of injection should be carefully chosen so that the water pressure at this point is as low as possible. Vacuum is created in the
ejector by the nozzle which is actually a precision designed venturi. Water pressure to the nozzle must be high enough to overcome the
back pressure and create a strong jet in the nozzle.
. . . 1.4.3 The standard ejector is designed to withstand static back pressures in excess of 250 psig (17.5 kg/cm2). However, due to possibilities of
water line "torque" in high pressure on-off systems, as well as special booster pump considerations, it is recommended that a factory
representative, or Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc. be consulted regarding installation details in systems over 100 psig (7 kg/cm2).
. . . 1.4.4 Generally, the amount of water (GPM) required to operate the ejector depends upon the chlorine flow rate (lbs./24 hrs. or gr./hr.). The higher
the chlorine flow rate, the greater the water flow needed.
1.1 1.2

... 1.4
1.3

1.5

3
 1.4.5 Ejector water supply pressure must be greater than the pressure into which solution is ejected. The amount of pressure differential may
vary with the particular application. Generally, the greater the pressure into which the chlorine will be injected, the greater the required
differential pressure. However, the minimum pressure differential and water flow for your installation should be determined prior to
installation and start-up.

1.4.6 Follow these steps for installing close-coupled diffuser and ejector.

a. Unscrew the diffuser from the assembly. DO NOT install the diffuser when the ejector is assembled or damage may occur.

b. Put Teflon tape on the 1" pipe threads and screw the diffuser into the pipe. These are high-strength plastic parts, but like all plastic pipe
fittings, care should be exercised in tightening. Tighten carefully with properly adjusted wrench. Make sure that the holes in the spray
type diffuser are in the main stream. The end of an open type diffuser should not allow strong chlorine solution to come into contact
with metal pipe or fittings, as this will cause serious cor- rosion. (Photo No. 1.2).

c. Place a gasket (GK-125) into the recess on each side of the check valve body. Insert the nozzle through the check valve body (Photo
No. 1.3). Hold the check valve body against the diffuser at ¼ turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE from its final position (up, down, side- ways).

d. Screw the nozzle into the diffuser, by HAND ONLY, until contact is made against both gaskets. Turn the check valve body and the
nozzle, at the same time, ¼ turn clockwise to the final, tight position (Photo No. 1.4). Attach water supply hose and tighten clamps.
(Photo No. 1.5).

1.4.7 Other types of diffuser and ejector installations may be desired for certain applications:

a. The ejector (nozzle and check valve assembly) may be located near the vacuum regulator. A wall mounting bracket can be provided
for the assembly, and the outlet can be supplied with various sizes of adaptors for solution hose or pipe.

b. If the ejector is to be remotely installed with solution piping or hose running to the point of application, be certain to cut off the tip of
the diffuser before installing into the pipe or hose. Failure to do this will result in excessive back- pressure being created in the diffuser,
causing chlorine feed rate to drop off or stop.

c. The entire diffuser-ejector assembly may be submersed in an open channel or tank.

d. Diffuser tubes with corporation cocks can be sup- plied for either close coupled or remote ejectors.

e. Special diffusers can be supplied for use with PVC Ball valves.

1.5 Piping of Ejector

1.5.1 For most installations, the ejector water supply line should be brought to within 3-5 feet of the nozzle with rigid copper or iron pipe, or
schedule 80 PVC pipe.
1.5.2 A shut-off valve followed by a Y-type strainer and the ejector is desirable as a service tool, and is highly recommended.
1.5.3 A pressure gauge installed between the Y-type strainer and the ejector is desirable as a service tool, and is recommended very strongly.
1.5.4 Connect hose between the hose adaptor and the ejector nozzle. Clamp the hose securely at both ends with single or double hose clamps.
(Photo No. 1.5).
1.5.5 When rigid piping is used all the way up to the ejector inlet instead of hose, cut off the hose adaptor "barbs" on the nozzle where the 1" NPT
threads start. Be certain to install pipe unions to allow maintenance.

1.6 Installation of Pressure Relief / Vent Valve

1.6.1 Mount the pressure relief (vent) valve on the wall using the mounting bracket provided. Install with the "cross" fitting on top.
1.6.2 It is preferable to locate the pressure relief valve so it is approximately equidistant from the two vacuum regulators. However, this is not
an absolute requirement.
1.6.3 Connect d" tubing to the bottom (vent) fitting and run the tubing outside the building to a safe location. Should the system become
pressurized, the vent will expel excess chlorine gas into the atmosphere. An insect screen is provided for the outside of the vent line, and
MUST be installed to prevent insects from entering the tubing and plugging the vent.

1.7 Connecting Vacuum Regulators to Pressure Relief Valve, Remote Meter, and to ejector

1.7.1 Appropriate size plastic tubing is normally used for the vacuum line between the vacuum regulators and pressure relief/vent valve; pressure
relief valve and remote meter; and the remote meter and ejector. Use enough length for each line to allow for movement of the vacuum
regulators from one cylinder to another.
1.7.2 Remove connector nut from connector and slip onto tube. Push tube onto connector and tighten connector nut HAND TIGHT.
1.7.3 The connector on chlorinator vacuum regulator is for connecting the vacuum tubing to one of the side connectors on top of the pressure
relief valve. The top connector on the pressure relief valve is connected to the lower connector on the remote meter panel. The upper
connector on the remote meter is for connecting the vacuum tubing to the ejector.

1.8 Additional Installation Suggestions

1.8.1 Many operators find it convenient to install a "hook" on the wall behind the chlorine cylinder, slightly above the vacuum regulator. When
changing cylinders, the vacuum regulator can easily be hung on this "hook" while moving new cylinders into place.
1.8.2 A beam-type scale should be used to weigh chlorine cylinders while in use to determine the amount of chlorine remaining.

2.0 START-UP & SHUT DOWN

5
 2.1 Check Ejector

2.1.1 The ejector, with its water supply and solution lines, must be properly installed and operating before checking the chlorinator: IMPORTANT:
do not connect ejector to the chlorine vacuum tubing before applying water pressure to the ejector assembly. Dirt or debris can become
lodged in the check valve during installation. Cycle the ejector on and off several times to insure tight closing. Failure to follow this
procedure can cause water to enter the chlorinator, requiring disassembly.

2.1.2 Unless the ejector is creating a vacuum, the chlorinator will not work. Follow these steps:

a. Make sure the plastic vacuum tube is disconnected from the ejector.
b. With the booster pump running, or pressurized water supply connected, open the ejector water supply valve. The ejector should be in
operation and creating a vacuum.
c. Put your finger on the vacuum connector opening of ejector and feel the vacuum. This is a strong vacuum and there should be no doubt
that a vacuum exists. If there is no vacuum, refer to Section 1.4 and be certain the supply pressure is sufficient and that the nozzle or
piping is not plugged. Correct the condition and obtain proper vacuum before proceeding.
d. Be sure that no water is coming out of the vacuum tube fitting when the ejector is shut off. If water is observed leaking past the check
valve, see Service Section 5.1 and correct before proceeding.
e. Re-connect the vacuum tube to check chlorinator. Leave the ejector running.

2.2 Check Vacuum Regulators. Leave Chlorine Cylinder Valves Closed.

(Have strong household ammonia and a piece of cloth available to check for chlorine leaks. Avoid breathing the fumes).

2.2.1 Make sure that the knobs on both vacuum regulators are in the "ON" position by turning them counter-clockwise until they "bottom out".
DO NOT FORCE KNOBS.
2.2.2 With the cylinder valves closed, turn on water supply to the ejector.
2.2.3 Turn the rate valve in the remote flowmeter/rate valve panel counter-clockwise a few turns.
2.2.4 With the ejector operating, and the chlorine cylinders still closed, the ball in the metering tube will remain at the bottom. If the ball does
not remain at the bottom, or bounces up and down, there is either a leak at the lead gasket where the vacuum regulator connects on the
cylinder or a loose connection in the system. Check and correct.
2.2.5 Close the ejector water supply valve or turn off the booster pump to stop operation of the ejector.
2.2.6 Disconnect the plastic vacuum tube from one of the vacuum regulators and pull off the tube to allow air to enter system. Reconnect tubing.
2.2.7 Reset one of the vacuum regulators to STAND-BY by turning the "Reset" knob clockwise until the knob “ratchets” freely and does not
unscrew any more . Then turn the knob counter-clockwise until it bottoms out. DO NOT FORCE THE KNOB. The lock nut on the end of
the center pin should project completely past the end of the knob when the vacuum regulator is in "STAND-BY' mode. (See Drawing No.
2).

IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read "Precautions".

2.2.5 Open chlorine cylinder valve 1/4 turn and close immediately.
2.2.6 Wet small piece of cloth in household ammonia (avoid breathing fumes) and hold below the lead gasket inlet connection and below the
cylinder valve bonnet.If chlorine is leaking, a smoke will appear similar to cigarette smoke. Tighten bonnet or replace gasket and eliminate
leaks. (NOTE: Do not pour ammonia solution on the vacuum regulator or cylinder valve).
2.2.7 Open chlorine cylinder valve 1/4 turn, leave open, and recheck for chlorine leaks.
2.2.8 Repeat procedure for the second vacuum regulator. If no leaks are observed around the pressurized connections, check the vent outlet
with ammonia fumes. If chlorine is detected at the vent, the inlet valve on one of the vacuum regulators is unable to close completely due
to dirt or impurities from the chlorine, and must be cleaned before proceeding.
2.2.9 When you are certain that there are no chlorine leaks, turn on water supply valve to ejector and adjust rate valve to desired chlorine flow
rate. Flow rate in lbs./24 hrs., or gr./hr. is read on the meter scale at the center of the ball for all flow rates except 200 to 500 PPD which
are read at the top of the ball.

NOTE: NEVER use the rate valve to shut off the chlorine supply. This valve is for adjusting flow rate while the system is in operation.
To shut off chlorine flow close the cylinder valve.

2.2.10 Make certain that both chlorine cylinder valves are open ¼ turn, that one vacuum regulator is reset to "STAND-BY", and the reset knobs
are turned fully counter-clockwise so that it is bottomed out against the face of the regulator.

2.3 SHUT-DOWN

IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read "Precautions".

2.3.1 Shut off water supply valve and/or booster pump.

. . . 2.3.2 Shut off the chlorine cylinder valve - not the rate valve.
. . . 2.3.3 When changing cylinders, follow the procedure on the cylinder changing chart supplied with your SUPERIOR Gas Chlorinator. Make certain
that the cylinder valve is closed before removing the vacuum regulator.

3.0 RESETTING TO "STAND-BY" AFTER A CYLINDER HAS EMPTIED

3.1 Be certain the chlorine cylinder valve is turned off. If the valve will not turn clockwise, try to open the valve by turning counter-clockwise. If it will
not turn in either direction, assume the valve is stuck in the open position and call your chlorine supplier.
3.2 Before removing the vacuum regulator from an empty cylinder, reset the regulator to "STAND-BY" by turning the Reset knob clockwise to engage
the latching mechanism (See 2.2.5).
3.3 Turn the reset knob counter-clockwise until it bottoms against the regulator face. DO NOT FORCE KNOB.
3.4 Follow the procedure for changing cylinders on the "CHLORINATOR CYLINDER CHANGING PROCEDURE" supplied with the chlorinator.

6
 Care and Maintenance of Your Superior Gas Chlorinator.
GENERAL
This section covers all phases of service on SUPERIOR Direct Cylinder Mounted Gas Chlorinators. Normally it is not necessary to completely disassemble
the chlorinator unless the unit is to be cleaned throughout, or the unit has been severely flooded. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE UNIT MERELY FOR THE
SAKE OF DISASSEMBLY. All units have been factory tested and are in perfect condition when they are shipped.

This text describes some of the things that can cause a chlorinator to stop working. Read it carefully and find out what the problem is before corrective
measures are taken.

4.0 TROUBLESHOOTING

SUPERIOR Gas Chlorinators will require minimum service if operated with reasonable care. Problems which could arise are listed below.

4.1 Chlorine Leak

. . . IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read the "Precautions".

There are four possible points of chlorine pressure leaks. These are not unusual, but if a chlorine leak is detected it should be immediately
located and stopped. Even small leaks can create a safety hazard and cause serious corrosion to equipment in the area. Ammonia should
be used to detect leaks (as described in 2.2.6 under START-UP).

4.1.1 Chlorine cylinder valve packing.

The chlorine cylinder valve is a high quality valve designed specifically for chlorine service. Chlorine suppliers should service this valve at
each filling and leakage at this point is unusual. Should a leak develop, tighten the cylinder valve packing nut without exerting excessive
force. If this does not eliminate the leak, close the valve and call the chlorine supplier.

4.1.2 The lead gasket seal between the vacuum regulator and the chlorine cylinder valve.

A leak at this point is caused by:

•Reusing a lead gasket
•Dirt on the gasket surfaces
•Under or over tightened connection
•Installation without a gasket
•Using a "fiber" type gasket (only lead gaskets should be used).

Use a new lead gasket. Make certain the gasket and gasket surfaces are clean and
smooth. Tighten clamp, but not excessively. (Photo No. 4.1)

4.1.3 Chlorinator shut-off valve - "Venting"

Chlorine leaking out of the vent in the SPR Pressure Relief Valve assembly is an
indication of a leak at the safety shut-off valve in the vacuum regulator. The usual cause
is dirt on the valve seat. Test to make certain the problem is a leak at this point.

a. Shut off water supply to ejector-diffuser.

b. Submerge the end of the vent tubing in a glass of water. Continuous bubbling is an
indication of a chlorine leak.
c. Before removing the vacuum regulator unit from the cylinder, close the cylinder
valve, turn on the water supply, and allow the chlorinator to operate until the
metering ball drops to the bottom. 4.1
d. Refer to section 5.5 under "Service" (cleaning safety shut-off Valve and Seat).

4.1.4 Vacuum Regulator inlet capsule seat (adaptor face seal O-ring (OR-103)

Chlorine leaking out between the back body and the yoke assembly, or from the space between the front and back bodies usually indicates
a leak at the o'ring seal between the inlet valve capsule and the inlet adaptor. The usual causes are listed below.
See section 5.5 under "Service".

a. Improper tightening of the inlet valve capsule after disassembly.

b. Dirt or impurities on the o'ring or sealing surfaces.
c. Failure to re-install the OR-103 o'ring after disassembly.
d. Damaged or worn OR-103 o'ring.

4.2 Loss of Chlorine Feed

(There are four possible reasons for loss of chlorine feed.)

4.2.1 No vacuum.

This can readily be checked by removing the chlorine gas line at the ejector-diffuser and holding your thumb over the fitting. Suitable
vacuum will exert a strong pull. If there is no vacuum, the ejector nozzle may be plugged. Refer to section 5.3 under "Service" (Cleaning
the Ejector nozzle).

4.2.2 Insufficient water pressure to operate ejector-diffuser.

7
 This can be readily checked in the same manner as above by holding the thumb over the ejector vacuum fitting.

4.2.3 No chlorine supply.

This should be obvious. With an Automatic Switchover system, when the chlorine cylinder becomes empty, the switchover mechanism
will unlatch on the standby vacuum regulator and chlorine gas will continue to feed. If BOTH cylinders are empty then the metering ball
will not indicate chlorine feed and the the latching mechanism pin in the front of the reset knob will be pulled in beyond the ring groove.

4.2.4 Plugged vacuum regulator inlet filter.

Dirt from the cylinder may completely plug the high-efficiency, porous filter, The filter may be removed for inspection and cleaning. See
section 5.5.10 under "Service".

4.2.4 Broken or leaking vacuum line(s).

4.3 Sticky Ball in Remote Meter Tube/Rate Valve Panel

4.3.1 Deposits

a. Chlorine gas may contain traces of organic compounds. These compounds can cause deposits on the ball or the glass tube. The
deposit is often sticky, causing the ball to adhere to the surface of the glass. This can cause erratic operation. When this occurs it is
necessary to clean the meter tube assembly. The cleaning procedure is outlined in section 5.4 under "Service" (Cleaning Chlorine
Meter).
b. Excessive amounts of lubricants applied to o'rings during service re-assembly can cause deposits to form on the metering tube ball and
tube walls.
c. The frequency of cleaning depends on a number of factors, Small chlorinators (below 10 PPD or 200 gr./hr.) will require cleaning more
often than higher capacity units. The quality of the chlorine and the operating temperature of the installation affect the frequency of
cleaning. Our experience indicates that a 10 PPD unit may have to be cleaned as often as every 4 or 5 months or may not require
cleaning for several years.

4.3.2 Moisture in the system

... a.. In the normal course of operation, moisture should not be present. However, it is possible in changing cylinders that very moist air
could be drawn into the inlet. This can cause the metering tube ball to become "sticky" particularly on the bottom c to ¼ of the tube.
b. If the chlorinator has been previously "flooded" (see section 4.4) it is possible that all moisture has not been removed from the gas
passageways in the vacuum regulator and/or remote meter/rate valve.
c. A severe vacuum leak can allow moist air to enter the system. (see section 4.5).

4.4 Water in Chlorinator - "Flooding"

4.4.1 During chlorinator operation, vacuum draws chlorine gas through the system and water cannot enter the chlorinator. When the system is
shut down, water under pressure is prevented from backing up into the chlorinator by means of a back flow check valve. Any water
observed in the chlorinator indicates a failure of the back flow check valve to seal properly. If the leak is severe or the check valve is
damaged, water may be observed coming out of the "vent" tubing:

a. Shut off the water supply to the ejector and the water in the main, so there is no pressure in the ejector piping.
b. Remove the vacuum tube from the ejector and follow instructions for "Cleaning Ejector Check Valve", Section 5.1 and for "Replacing
Ejector Check Valve", Section 5.2, if damage is observed.
c. Close the chlorine cylinder valve and remove the vacuum regulator from the cylinder. Remove the metering tube from the remote meter
module and follow instructions in Section 5.4 "Cleaning Rate Adjustment Valve and Metering Tube".
d. Follow instructions for "Disassembly of Vacuum Regulator Body" in Section 5.6 and be certain all moisture is removed before
reassembling. Also, be certain no moisture remains in the vacuum tubing between the vacuum regulator and remote meter panel.
e. Follow "Start-Up" procedure in Section 2.

4.5 Vacuum Leaks

4.5.1 For best operation all parts of the chlorinator system should be air-tight, since vacuum leaks will permit air to enter the system. All units
are vacuum tested at the factory prior to shipment, therefore, a vacuum leak on a new unit is unlikely. Furthermore, it is very unusual for
leaks to develop during operation unless the unit has been disassembled.

4.5.2 A simple test determines whether or not a chlorinator system is free of vacuum leaks. Proceed as follows:

a. Operate the chlorinator normally at any arbitrary chlorine setting.

b. Shut off the chlorine cylinder valve. (It is assumed that the cylinder valve will shut off tightly. A defective valve will give false results).
c. The ball in the chlorine meter should drop to zero. (For very low capacity units this may take as long as 5 minutes). If the ball does not
drop to the bottom this indicates a vacuum air leak at some point in the system, usually between the chlorine inlet and the metering tube.
d. When the ball drops to zero, shut off the ejector supply water. The poppet retainer nut on the front of the regulator will pull in until the
indicator groove on the outside surface of the nut is below the rim of the reset knob.. With a perfectly tight system this condition will
remain. Usually a 5 or 10 minute check is all that is required. If a leak exists in the system, the diaphragm assembly will move allowing
the groove on the retaining nut to become visible beyond the rim of the reset knob.

4.5.3 The most common cause of vacuum leaks is improper assembly of units that have been taken apart for servicing.

4.5.4 The most common points of leakage are listed as follows:

a. Chlorine metering tube gaskets

8
 If the chlorine meter is not installed straight or the rate valve seat (RV-130) is not tightened properly a leak could develop.

NOTE: Excessive tightening can also cause a leak. Metering tube gaskets can be re-used. However, except for "Lip" type gaskets, they should
be turned over to re-use.

b. Rate valve o'rings

Rate valve o'rings (OR-102) may become worn. Fouling of the surfaces might cause abrasion of the o'ring surface.

c. Sealing surface at main diaphragm

An imperfection or speck of dirt on this surface during reassembly may cause a vacuum leak, but SUPERIOR's use of a compression
sealing o'ring (OR-108) makes this unlikely.

d. Vacuum tubing and connectors

Check vacuum tubing for cracks, particularly under tubing connector nuts. Check vacuum tubing connectors.

e. Other possible points of leakage which are not as common:

(1) O'ring at inlet capsule (OR-106)

(2) Vent seal on diaphragm (OR-110)

4.6 Failure to Repeat Set Feed Rate

4.6.1 On start-up (where the chlorinator is actuated automatically with water flow) a chlorinator with a dirty meter or rate adjustment valve may
not repeat.
This is particularly true of low capacity units below
10 PPD chlorine feed rate. Correction of this situation can be accomplished by:

a. Cleaning the rate adjustment valve as outlined in Section 5.4.

... b. Cleaning the chlorine meter as outlined in Section 5.4. The frequency of cleaning depends on the quality of chlorine.

4.6.2 Failure to repeat may also occur if the chlorinator has been flooded and moisture remains in the metering and rate adjustment areas.

4.7 Icing of Metering Tube - Liquid Chlorine

4.7.1 If ice is observed forming on the remote meter tube it is a definite indication that liquid chlorine has entered the chlorinator from the cylinder.
While this is extremely rare, our experience has shown that chlorine suppliers have been known to overfill chlorine cylinders (rarely) causing
liquid to enter the chlorinator. Also, if the cylinder should be tipped over while the chlorinator is operating, liquid may be drawn into the
system.

Ton Containers; If the vacuum regulator is mounted directly onto the gas outlet valve of a ton container (using a ton container adaptor),
it is possible that the "dip" tube inside the container has been broken off or a hole has developed, allowing liquid chlorine to be drawn into
the vacuum regulator instead of gas. Also, check to be certain that the heater on the adaptor is keeping the drip leg warm. It is possible
for liquid chlorine that is trapped in the inside "dip" tube of the container to be drawn through the adaptor, when a ton container is first used.
Make sure that the regulator is connected to the TOP valve, and that the two valves are aligned vertically.

Wall Manifolds; Gas vapor can condense and form droplets of liquid chlorine, particularly when there is a sudden temperature drop in the
flexible connectors. Make sure that the "drip Leg" heater is connected and that the drip leg is warm to the touch. Do not allow cylinders
or ton containers to be in an area where they can become warmer than the flexible connectors or manifold piping (example: cylinder placed
where sunlight through a window can shine on it but not on the manifold piping ).

4.7.2 If the chlorinator has been subjected to liquid chlorine, do the following:

IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read "Precautions"

a. Shut off the cylinder valve.

b. Leave the ejector running and pulling vacuum on the chlorinator for several minutes.
c. Remove the vacuum regulator from the cylinder.
d. Keeping your face away from the regulator, quickly remove the vacuum tubing from the "vacuum" outlet on the vacuum regulator, to
"break" the vacuum lock in the regulator.
e. Re-connect the vacuum tube. Observe that the metering tube ball indicates gas flow (air). The chlorinator will now draw air into the
chlorinator inlet and through the chlorinator, vaporizing any remaining liquid. If the metering tube ball drops to the bottom, it means
that the vacuum regulator has "locked up" due to excessive air flow rate. If this happens close the rate valve, remove the vacuum tube
from the regulator again and quickly reconnect it. Open the rate valve until air flows at a steady rate. Allow the chlorinator to draw air
for several minutes.
f. Shut off ejector.
g. Either OUTDOORS or in a WELL-VENTILATED ROOM, follow instructions for "Disassembly of Vacuum Regulator Body" (Section 5.6).
Clean with wood alcohol or Apple Cider vinegar and replace any parts that show signs of chlorine attack.
h. Reassemble and follow START-UP procedure in Section 2.

9
5.0 SERVICE/DISASSEMBLY
IMPORTANT: Before proceeding, read the "Precautions for
Personal and Chlorinator Protection" on Page 1.

Before attempting to disassemble any of the SUPERIOR Gas Chlorinator components, refer to Section 4.0 TROUBLE HINTS to isolate the cause
of the problem. Below are listed the various sections under SERVICE.

Section 5.1 Ejector check valve - cleaning.

Section 5.2 Ejector check valve - replacement.
Section 5.3 Cleaning/Inspection of ejector nozzle.
Section 5.4 Removing and cleaning chlorine rate adjustment valve and metering tube.
Section 5.5 Cleaning inlet safety shut-off valve and seat.
Section 5.6 Disassembly of vacuum regulator body & Setting Swichover Latching Mechanism.
. . . Section 5.7 SPR Switchover Pressure Relief Valve.

5.1 Ejector Check Valve - Cleaning

5.1.1 Two check valves are installed in the standard ejector assembly to prevent water from backing into the chlorine gas system when the ejector
is shut off. (Note: a special "Low Pressure" ejector is sometimes provided for installations where chlorine solution is being applied directly
into an open tank - This ejector contains only the Low Pressure check valve. Follow directions that apply only to low pressure check valves).
The check valves are designed so that it is extremely difficult for dirt to get under the valves, but dirt can enter from the chlorine side of
the valve, or work its way under the valve from the water supply if large amounts of sand or other impurities are present.

To remove and clean the valves:

a. Shut off the water supply to the ejector and the water in the main.
b. Remove vacuum tube.
c. Unscrew the check valve assembly counter- clockwise from the ejector body (EJ-110). Wrench lugs are
located on the underside of the check valve assembly if you cannot unscrew it by hand.

HIGH PRESSURE CHECK VALVE:

...
...
a. Carefully lift the edge of the check valve (CV-150) (Photo No. 5.1) and inspect. Clean both the valve and
the seating surfaces with wood alcohol or apple cider vinegar. Do not use any solvents.
b. When re-installing the check valve assembly, put a small amount of "Fluorolube" or Dow Corning DC33
silicone grease on the seat o'ring (OR-105) and seat gasket (GK-120) for lubrication.
c. Screw check valve assembly (clockwise) into ejector body. USE NO TOOLS, HAND TIGHTEN ONLY.
d. Pressurize the ejector and cycle several times before reconnecting the vacuum tubing to insure that the
check valve is sealing properly.

LOW PRESSURE CHECK VALVE:

a. The low pressure check valve is housed inside the check valve assembly. Any cleaning or service requires 5.1
disassembling the entire check valve assembly. Unless a leak is observed, or you wish to replace the low
pressure check valve seat as preventive maintenance, it is recommended that you do not disassemble
the unit. If disassembly is required, follow instructions under "Replacement", below, and always replace the low pressure check valve
seat o'ring (OR-114).

5.2 Ejector Check Valve - Replacement

5.2.1 HIGH PRESSURE CHECK VALVE: After inspecting the check valve as described in 5.1 above, if wear or damage is noted, the check valve
(CV-150) should be replaced.

a. Grasp the outer edges of the check valve (CV-150) and apply a steady pulling force until the "umbrella"
tip pops free. Be certain it is completely removed.
b. Examine the check valve seat sealing surface for deposits and clean with wood alcohol or apple cider
vinegar.
c. Check the seat sealing surface with a straight-edge to be certain that it is completely flat. If the center is
slightly raised, you will see light under the straight-edge or it will "rock" over the center. If the seat sealing
surface is not flat, use a very fine sand- paper or emery cloth on a flat surface (plate glass), and gently
move the check valve seat in a figure 8 pattern only. Do not rub back and forth or the seat will become
distorted.
d. Coat the tip of new check valve with a very light film of DC33 silicone grease. Put the tip of the check valve
in the check valve seat hole and using the handle of a screwdriver or other rounded object, push against
the center of the check valve until the tip snaps into seat. (Photo No. 5.2).

DO NOT TWIST CHECK VALVE OR DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.

5.2.2 LOW PRESSURE CHECK VALVE: if water has been observed coming out of the vacuum tube fitting on the
check valve assembly, it will be necessary to disassemble the check valve housing, and replace the check 5.2
valve seat o'ring, and possibly the check valve diaphragm if it is damaged.

a. Hold the check valve seat/outlet body (CV-110) with a wrench or place the wrench lugs in avise. Using a 1 inch open-end wrench, place
the wrench on the "outside" of the raised wrench lug on top of the check valve inlet body (CV-111). This is the side into which the

10
 vacuum fitting is screwed. Turn the inlet body counter-clockwise to unscrew it.
b. When disassembling, note the position of the diaphragm and spring. Usually, the spring will remain attached to the diaphragm bolt (CV-
103).
(Photo No. 5.3)
c. Inspect the check valve seat o'ring for dirt or deposits. The o'ring may be cleaned and re-used, but it is recommended that the o'ring
be replaced whenever the unit is disassembled. (Photo No. 5.4)
d. Inspect the check valve sealing surface on the diaphragm bolt (CV-103) and clean with wood alcohol or apple cider vinegar.
e. If the diaphragm (CV-104) has been damaged or has been severely distorted, it must be replaced. When re-assembling the diaphragm
assembly, be certain that no dirt or debris is on the sealing surfaces of the diaphragm, the diaphragm bolt (CV-103) or nut (CV-105).
Be careful when tightening the diaphragm bolt and nut to avoid tearing the diaphragm.
(Photo No. 5.5)Re-assemble by placing the spring and diaphragm assembly into the recessed hole in the outlet body (CV-110). Make
sure that the diaphragm assembly is centered and carefully place the inlet body (CV-111) over the threads of the outlet body. Hand
tighten until resistance is felt. Using a wrench or vise to hold the outlet body, and a 1" open-end wrench on the inlet body (see 5.2.2.a),
tighten down the inlet body until snug. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN.

5.2.3 Examine seat o'ring (OR-105) and seat gasket (GK-120)for wear or damage
and replace if necessary.

5.2.4 When reinstalling the check valve assembly, put a small amount of DC33
silicone grease on the seat o'ring (OR-105) and seat gasket (GK-120) for
lubrication. It is recommended that Teflon pipe sealing tape be applied to
the threads of the check valve assembly.

5.2.5 Screw check valve seat (clockwise) into ejector body. USE NO TOOLS.
HAND TIGHTEN ONLY.

5.3 Cleaning/Inspection of Ejector Nozzle

5.3.1 To remove the ejector nozzle for cleaning, the water pressure in the main
must first be shut off unless the ejector was initially installed with a valve on
the inlet side and a ball valve or corporation stop in the outlet so that
isolation of the ejector is possible. 5.3 5.4
5.3.2 Remove the ejector supply hose and chlorine vacuum tubing from the
ejector assembly.
5.3.3 Rotate the complete ejector body counterclockwise, making certain that the solution outlet remains fixed (use wrench if necessary). This
loosens the threaded portion of the nozzle from the solution diffuser and simplifies removal.
5.3.4 Unscrew the nozzle (EJ-130). The ejector body, the nozzle and the diffuser (EJ-150) are now separated. (Photo No. 5.6).

5.3.5 Nozzle plugging can be caused by:

a. Piece of foreign material (pipe sealer, stone or dirt accumulation). This

can be readily blown out or pushed out very carefully, with a wire in the
reverse direction. Do not use sharp tools or alter the size of the orifice
in any way.
b. Excess plastic pipe solvent used during initial installation of inlet piping.
If such solvent has chemically bonded to the nozzle orifice, the nozzle
must be replaced.
c. Build-up of deposit. This could be a chemical build- up of iron,
manganese or other material which usually can be removed by
immersing the nozzle in muriatic acid and rinsing. CAUTION: Read all
warning labels on Muriatic Acid bottle and avoid skin contact. It is
recommended that safety goggles or face shield be used when working
with any strong acid. Some waters are such that this build-up can cause
an ejector to become inoperative every two months. If build-up is
excessive and requires constant cleaning, you may consider the 5.5 5.6
possibility of adding "sequestering" chemicals (such as
hexametaphosphate) into the ejector water supply line. Consult local
regulatory agencies before adding any chemicals to a potable water system.

5.3.6 To re-install the nozzle:

a. Insert the nozzle through the ejector body and fasten to the solution diffuser outlet (EJ-150) using new
gaskets (GK-125) on each side of ejector body.
b. Hold the ejector body (EJ-110) against the diffuser at ¼ turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE from its final position;
up, down, sideways, etc. (see installation Section, Photo No. 1.3).
c. Screw the nozzle into the diffuser, BY HAND ONLY, until contact is made against both gaskets.
d. Turn the ejector body and the nozzle, at the same time, ¼ turn clockwise to the final tight position. (See
Installation Section, Photo No. 1.3).
e. Re-install the ejector supply hose and chlorine vacuum tubing.

5.3.7 Open all valves and check for proper vacuum. (See Section 2.1).

5.4 Cleaning Chlorine Rate Adjustment Valve and Metering Tube.

. . . 5.4.1 Unscrew the rate valve plug assembly (RV-140) from the top of Remote Meter Assembly, (Photo No. 5.7)
andpull the plug assembly with steady pressure until it "pops" out of the rate valve seat.
5.4.2 Insert a nail or thin screwdriver through two of the four holes in the top of the rate valve seat. While holding 5.7
the chlorine flow metering tube with one hand, turn the seat counter-clockwise. The metering tube will loosen
11
... and may be removed, (Photo No. 5.8).
5.4.3 Continue unscrewing the rate valve seat until it is free of its threads. Grasp the rate valve seat and pull up
until it pops out.

5.4.4 To clean the rate valve plug (RV-140):

a. Clean the silver tip and shaft using a cloth dipped in lacquer thinner or acetone. CAUTION: Do not use
any lacquer thinner or acetone on o'rings. This can cause the material to soften or become damaged.
b. Use a mild solvent, such as alcohol to clean o-rings. Examine the o-rings (OR-102) and make sure they
are free of bruises or scratches. Replace if necessary. Use a light film of DC33 silicone grease on the
o-rings and threads.

5.4.5 To clean the rate valve seat (RV-130):

a. Use a cotton swab (Q-Tip) with a small amount of wood alcohol and clean out the inside of the rate valve
seat. 5.8
b. If dirt or deposits have formed in the metering orifice of the rate valve seat, a pipe cleaner dipped in
alcohol can be carefully inserted through the orifice and gently moved back and forth. (Photo No. 5.9).
c. Clean the metering tube gasket surface with the cotton swab.
d. Inspect and clean the rate valve seat o-rings (OR-103) with alcohol. Replace if damaged or worn.

5.4.6 To clean the metering tube assembly:

a. Use tweezers or needle nosed pliers and pull out the float stops on each end of the glass tube. MAKE
SURE THE METERING BALL IS NOT LOST.

b. Clean the inside of the glass tube with a pipe cleaner using wood alcohol and rinse thoroughly with
warm water. Clean the metering ball float.
... c. Dry out the glass meter with an air hose. (NOTE: Never use compressed air when the metering ball float
is in the tube). If none is available, a hot water rinse will dry out by itself in a few minutes.
d. Re-install ball float and float stops.

5.4.7 Place Teflon pipe tape on threads of the rate valve seat (RV-130)and apply a thin film of DC33 silicone
grease to the o-rings. Snap valve seat in place until the threads can engage. Turn the rate valve seat 5.9
clockwise 1-1/2 turns.

5.4.8 Replace the chlorine metering tube:

a. The metering tube gaskets can usually be re-used. If damaged, replace them. Place one gasket on the bottom of the rate valve seat
and one gasket in the recess of the chlorinator body at the bottom of the metering tube area. (NOTE: some sizes of metering tubes use
larger "Lip" type gaskets on the top than on the bottom).
b. Center the top of the metering tube under the rate valve seat and center the bottom over the hole in the lower gasket.
c. Using the rate valve removal tool (nail) or pliers tighten (clockwise) the
rate valve seat while holding the metering tube in place with numbers of
proper scale facing front. Be sure the tube is centered over the gasket
holes.
d. When the metering tube no longer can be rotated easily, tighten the rate
valve seat another ¼ to ½ turn. Do not over tighten so as to squash the
gaskets since this can cause a vacuum leak.

5.4.9 Replace the Rate Valve Plug assembly (RV-140) by placing it into the top of
the rate valve seat and gently pushing down until the O-ring pops into the
seat and the threads can engage. Tighten down the rate valve a few turns.

5.5 Cleaning Inlet Safety Shut Off Valve and Seat

5.5.1 Remove the two screws holding the yoke body bar
(YK-100) to the vacuum regulator body.
5.5.2 Pull the entire yoke assembly from the vacuum regulator body. A clockwise
rotation helps if the o-ring seal is tight. It should slip out relatively 5.10 5.11
easily.(Photo No. 5.10)
5.5.3 To disassemble the inlet capsule, turn the inlet adaptor plug (IV-120)
counter-clockwise. If the plug is tight, use a narrow pliers but be careful not
to damage the adaptor o-ring (OR-106). The end of the valve plug (IV-130)
is now exposed (Photo No. 5.11).
5.5.4 Insert a screw driver into the slot in the end of the inlet valve plug (IV-130)
and unscrew the inlet vent plug/ spring guide (IV-145). This can often be
unscrewed by hand. (Photo No. 5.12). If pliers are necessary make sure
the rounded seat surface is not scratched. (NOTE: This assembly is in
tension with the inlet spring(IV-160) so be careful not to lose the vent
plug/spring guide).
5.5.5 Remove the inlet valve plug (IV-130) and inlet spring (IV-160).
5.5.6 Inspect the sealing surface of the inlet valve seat (IV-110). This surface
must be completely free of dirt, nicks, or scratches. A magnifying glass
gives a good indication of the quality of the seat. Use a cotton swab
dipped in lacquer thinner, acetone or alcohol to carefully clean the seat.
DO NOT attempt to clean the seat with a sharp tool. Replace the valve seat
if it is not in perfect condition. (Normally it will not be necessary to remove
the valve seat from the inlet adaptor plug (IV-120) unless it needs to be
5.13 5.12
12
 replaced. To remove, use one of the chlorinator body screws inserted through the inlet spring side of the
adaptor plug. Place the head of the screw against a hard surface and push firmly on the adaptor until the
valve seat pops free. (Photo No. 5.13).
5.5.7 Immerse the inlet valve plug (IV-130) and vent plug
(IV-150) in lacquer thinner or acetone. Usually a deposit of crystalline organic material or a hard varnish like
material will form along the valve stem below the valve seating surface. Wipe the surfaces clean with a clean
cloth and inspect the tapered valve sealing surface, and the rounded vent plug sealing surfaces. These
surfaces must be completely free of dirt, nicks and scratches.
5.5.8 Clean the inlet adaptor (YK-150) before proceeding with assembly. A small tube or bottle brush (or cotton
swab) with lacquer thinner or acetone works well here. Remove and inspect the adapter face seal o-ring (OR-
103) before applying any cleaning solvent to the adaptor. Replace the o-ring if scratched or damaged.
5.5.9 The adaptor face seal o-ring (OR-103) and all other parts may be cleaned with a clean cloth dipped in wood
alcohol.
5.5.10 The inlet filter disk (YK-165) may be removed for inspection of dirt build-up and for cleaning by pushing a
pencil eraser tip through the inlet adaptor (YK-150), (See Photo No. 5.14). Dirt and deposits can usually be
removed by immersing the filter in muriatic acid. CAUTION: Read all warning labels on muriatic acid 5.14
container. Use only in a well ventilated area. Avoid skin contact. Do not breath vapors. Safety goggles or face
shield should be worn. Dry filter thoroughly with air hose or dryer. If local, state, or federal regulations prohibit
storage or use of Muriatic acid at your site, try using some apple cider vinegar. If this does not get the filter
clean, then replace the filter.

5.5.11 TO REASSEMBLE proceed as follows:

a. Replace the filter in the adaptor inlet using finger pressure.

b. Replace the inlet valve seat (IV-110) and valve seat o-ring (OR-104) if they were removed from the adaptor
plug. A very light film of DC33 silicone grease should be put on the o-ring and the seat slowly "pumped"
into the adaptor plug.
c. Insert the inlet valve plug (IV-130) through the valve seat.
d. Place the inlet adaptor plug with the inlet valve plug facing down on a smooth clean surface and proceed.
e. Insert the inlet spring guide/vent plug onto the inlet spring and snap into place. Insert the inlet spring with
guide/vent plug attached, into the inlet adaptor plug recess.
f. Compress the spring guide/vent plug and screw it on to the inlet valve plug a few turns by hand.
g. Place a screwdriver in the inlet valve plug slot, hold the spring guide/vent plug with the other hand and
screw down the spring guide/vent plug until the spring guide bottoms 5.15
on the shoulder of the inlet valve plug. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN (Photo
No. 5.15). The spring should compress until approximately 1/32" (1mm)
of clearance is observed between the top of the adaptor plug and the
bottom of the spring guide/vent plug. (NOTE: A screwdriver tip that fits
the inlet valve plug slot is a good measuring tool).
h. Check alignment of valve stem assembly. It should appear straight when
viewed from any direction.
j. Screw the inlet adaptor plug assembly into the yoke assembly,
clockwise. Use pliers and tighten until you are certain the plug is
bottomed. The plastic used in this plug is very strong, just be careful that
you do not damage the inside of the adaptor plug OD sealing o'ring
groove. (Photo No. 5.16).
i. Place the adaptor face seal O-ring (OR-103) into the groove in the inlet
adaptor.

5.5.12 Put a light film of DC33 slicone grease on the adaptor plug OD sealing
O-ring (OR-106). Also put a light film of lubricant on the back body inlet 5.17 5.16
seal (OR-113).

5.5.13 Insert the entire yoke assembly into the chlorinatorr body using a slight CLOCKWISE ROTATION. DO NOTturn the yoke assembly
counter-clockwise as a precaution against unscrewing the inlet safety capsule.

5.6 Disassembly of Vacuum Regulator Body

Normally it is not necessary to completely disassemble the unit unless a thorough

cleaning is necessary or parts need replacing.

5.6.1 Remove the yoke assembly as described in Section 5.5.1 and 5.5.2.

. . . 5.6.2 Remove the four screws which hold the body assembly together and
separate the body halves. (Photo No. 5.17)

. . . 5.6.3 Remove the switchover poppet retaining nut from the center of the reset
knob by pushing the locking pin out trough the other side of the nut with 5.18 5.19
a very small screwdriver or punch. (Photo No. 5.18) Then unscrew the
retaining nut and remove the Teflon friction washers.

. . . 5.6.4 Grasp the diaphragm back plate (VR-141)* and pull the entire diaphragm assembly out of the front body. (NOTE: VR-140 and VR-160 are
assembled as VR-141).

. . . 5.6.5 Unscrew the reset knob by turning it clockwise until it comes free from the front body.
. . . 5.6.6 Unless you need to replace the switchover poppet latchingring (VR-137) from the regulator front body, you should not remove this
assembly. If you must remove and replace the latching ring, first loosen the locking ring from the front side of the front regulator body using
13
 a needle nosed pliers or flat screwdriver blade. (Photo 5.19) Then unscrew the latching ring from the inside of the front body by turning
it counter-clockwise with your finger. If the retaining ring is stuck, use caution when using tools to remove it if you are not replacing this
part, as the center raised section is a critical surface.

The diaphragms are made of special, very tough, chlorine resistant

material and failure is extremely unlikely.

Should it be necessary to disassemble the diaphragm proceed as follows:

a. Grasp both the front and back diaphragm plates and unscrew them. (Photo No. 5.20). If the plates cannot
be unscrewed by hand you may use a vise to clamp one of the plates and use a strap wrench or marine
deck plate spanner wrench to unscrew the other.

b. The diaphragm can now be removed. Note the position of the "convolution" on the diaphragm. The raised
portion should always face the back of the chlorinator when installed.

5.6.6 Clean the parts thoroughly using wood alcohol or Apple Cider vinegar.
5.20
5.6.7 Carefully inspect all o'rings for damage or wear and replace if necessary.

NOTE: Excessive use of lubricants can cause additional

service problems.

5.6.8 Reassemble the unit using the reverse procedure and check the following:

a. Be certain that the main diaphragm seal o'ring (OR-108) is properly seated.

b. After inserting the latching poppet ring (Photo 5.21) in the front body (if it was removed) insert the
diaphragm assembly through the center of the front body.

... IMPORTANT: Check the proper positioning of the switchover poppet latching ring by holding
the entire front body with the diaphragm assembly on the top and the body on the bottom.
Then gently press the diaphragm assembly with your thumbs ( Photo No. 5.22). It should
move easily between 1/16 th and 1/8 th of an inch (1.5 to 3.0 mm). If the movement is either 5.21
too small or too large, then remove the diaphragm assembly and adjust the latching ring
position until the proper diaphragm travel is attained. Failure to properly set the latching ring
as instructed may cause the chlorinator inlet valve to remain open and allow chlorine gas to
flow into the regulator without vacuum present when the chlorine cylinder valve is opened.
If you are unsure about this procedure, contact your local SUPERIOR distributor or Chemical
Injection technologies, Inc, for assistance..

... c. Remove the diaphragm assembly when the latching ring is properly positioned and tighten the locking
ring against the latching ring while holding thelatching ring in place with your finger from the inside of the
front body. Replace the diaphragm assembly in the front body.

... d. Replace the reset knob, Teflon friction washers, the poppet retaining nut and locking pin.

c. Place the back body (VR-110) on a table and lower the front body (VR-125) onto it.

e. Grasp the entire unit and turn it over so the back body is on top and re-assemble the four 1-1/2" (38mm) 5.22
long screws. These screws should be run in until they just begin to tighten.

5.6.9 Replace the yoke assembly using procedure described in Section 5.5.13, turning it slightly CLOCKWISE as it is inserted.

5.6.10 Tighten all bolts in a criss-cross pattern until they are all snug. Do not over tighten. Sealing is accomplished
by the large o'ring between the bodies (OR-108). THERE SHOULD BE A GAP OF APPROXIMATELY 1/16"
(1.6mm) BETWEEN THE TWO BODY HALVES. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLOSE THIS GAP BY TIGHTENING
THE BODY SCREWS. (Photo No. 5.23).

5.7 SPR Switchover Pressure Relief Valve.

. . . 5.7.1 When performing maintenance of the system, or if a vacuum leak is detected at the vent tubing, causing air
to enter the gas system, it will be necessary to disassemble the low pressure check valve housing which
has been modified to perform the function of a system pressure relief valve. Replace the relief valve seat
o'ring, and possibly the pressure relief valve diaphragm if it is damaged.

a. Hold the check valve seat/outlet body (CV-110) with a wrench or place the wrench lugs in a vise. Using
a 1 inch open-end wrench, place the wrench on the "outside" of the raised wrench lug on top of the check 5.23
valve inlet body (CV-111). This is the side into which the vacuum fitting is screwed. Turn the inlet body
counter-clockwise to unscrew it.
b. When disassembling, note the position of the diaphragm and spring. Usually, the spring will remain attached to the diaphragm bolt (CV-
103).
(Photo No. 5.3)
c. Inspect the check valve seat o'ring for dirt or deposits. The o'ring may be cleaned and re-used, but it is recommended that the o'ring
be replaced whenever the unit is disassembled. (Photo No. 5.4)
d. Inspect the check valve sealing surface on the diaphragm bolt (CV-103) and clean with wood alcohol or apple cider vinegar.
e. If the diaphragm (CV-104) has been damaged or has been severely distorted, it must be replaced. When re-assembling the diaphragm
assembly, be certain that no dirt or debris is on the sealing surfaces of the diaphragm, the diaphragm bolt (CV-103) or nut (CV-105).
14
 Be careful when tightening the diaphragm bolt and nut to avoid tearing the diaphragm. (Photo No. 5.5)

... f. Re-assemble by placing the spring and diaphragm assembly into the recessed hole in the outlet body (CV-110). Make sure that the
diaphragm assembly is centered and carefully place the inlet body (CV-111) over the threads of the outlet body. Hand tighten until
resistance is felt. Using a wrench or vise to hold the outlet body, and a 1" open-end wrench on the inlet body (See Section 5.2.2.a),
tighten down the inlet body until snug. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN

IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT USE ANY LUBRICANT (DC 33 GREASE) ON THE FOLLOWING O-RINGS
OR107
OR-108
OR-109
OR-110

Chemical Injection Technologies, Inc.

835 Edwards Rd., Ft. Pierce, FL 34982
(772) 461-0666 Fax: (772) 460-1847
E-Mail: [email protected]
www.chlorinators.com

15