Study of Carpentry Shop

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
HAMMER SAFETY:
 Use correct Size Hammer
 Never use a hammer with a loose head
 I never use two hammers together
 Never use the side of the hammer
 Never strike cold chisels or hard objects with a nail
 Hammer
SCREW DRIVER SAFETY
 Use Correct Size Screw Driver
 Never use a screw driver with rounded edges or tips
 Worn tip damages screw and finger
 Never hold the work in one hand
 Never use a screw driver for prying, punching, chiselling or scraping
 Always drill a pilot hole while driving screws
 Use an insulated screw driver for electric work
 Never use a screw driver for stirring paints
CHISEL SAFETY
 Keep sharp at all times; Blunt tools cause damage
 Keep al1 parts of body behind cutting edges
 Never try and cut too much material
DEFINITION
Carpentry is the trade or work of a person of woodwork basically to construct
buildings, ship etc.
OBJECTIVES
After going through this section the student will be able to:
Identify and select the right type of wood for various applications.
Acquire required knowledge and practical skills in wood cutting, joining and other
allied operations.
WORKBENCH
A typical carpentry worktable is shown in fig. 2.1. The table height will be
approximately 3 feet. It consists of sturdy heavy base, with adjustable feet for uneven
floors. The top is fitted with a laminated hard maple plank planed and scraped
smooth. A quick action cast iron vice with wooden jaws is fitted at one end.
TYPES OF MA TERlAL
Numerous species take on different characteristics. All are composed of 60%
cellulose and 28% Jinen. These substances make up the fibrous and woody cell walls
of plants and trees and are held together by cementing propel colours are the elements
remaining, of about 12%. Other wood is sawed and cured. There are hardwoods from
deciduous trees and softwoods from coniferous trees.
CLASSIFICATION OF WOOD
Woods can be classified as (i) Hard Wood (ii) Soft Wood
HARDWOOD
AFRICAN MAHOGANY, BLACK WALNUT, WHITE OAK, RED OAK,
JvlAPLE, ASH,
CHERRY, HICKORY, BALSA, CYLON SATINWOOD, RATN, BEECH, BRICH,
WILLOW, EAST
INDIAN EBONY, TEAK and PEAR fall under the category of hard wood. The
general properties of
Hard wood and their uses are given below:

Appearance:
Generally straight grained with a moderately coarse, unifonn texture. Rich dark
brown heartwood and nearly white sapwood.

Physical properties:
 Moderately heavy, hard, strong and stiff, with good decay resistance and dimensional
stability.

Working properties:
Works very well with machine or hand tools. Excels at turning, modeling, routing,
shaping, carving and drilling. Sands easily and finishes to a velvety, natural-coloured
sheen.

Uses:
Ideal for gun stocks due to dimensional stability and ability to absorb recoil. Also for
decorative panels, interior joinery, novelty carving, turnery, boat building, clock
cases and musical instruments.

SOFTWOODS
PINE, DOULAS-FIR, REDWOOD, CEDAR etc. are few examples of softwood. The
general properties of soft wood and their uses are given below:
Appearance:
Generally straight grained, but Atlantic and Lebanon cedars are often knotty. Fine
textured. Light brown resinous heartwood and Pale coloured sapwood.
Physical Properties:
Medium weight, low shock resistance and stiffness and generally low strength. Stable
in service. The heartwood is decay resistant.
Working properties:
Works fairly well with hand or machines tools although knots and in-grown
Bark can be troublesome. Holds screws and nails well and polishes to a nice finish.
Working properties:
Works very well with machine or hand tools. Excels at turning, modelling,
Routing, shaping, carving and drilling. Sands easily and finishes to a velvety,
natural-coloured sheen. Uses: Jdeal for gun stocks due to dimensional stability and
ability to absorb recoil. Also for
Decorative panels, interior joinery, novelty carving, turnery, boat building, clock
cases and musical Instruments.

SOFTWOODS
PINE, DOULAS-FIR, REDWOOD, CEDAR etc. are few examples of softwood. The
general
 Properties of soft wood and their uses are given below:
Appearance:
Generally straight grained, but Atlantic and Lebanon cedars are often knotty. Fine
Textured. Light brown resinous heartwood and Pale coloured sapwood.

Physical Properties:
Medium weight, low shock resistance and stiffness and generally low
Strength. Stable in service. The heartwood is decay resistant.
Working properties:
Works fairly well with hand or machines tools although knots and in-grown
Bark can be troublesome. Holds screws and nails well and polishes to a nice finish.

Uses:
Higher grades are used for furniture, cabinetry, doors, and interior joinery. Lesser
grades are
Used for house and bridge construction, paving blocks, and outdoor furniture. Other
uses include
Panelling and decorative veneers.
CARPENTRY TOOLS
Classification
a) Marking and Measuring Tools - Pencil, knife, steel rule, steel tape, marking
Gauge, Try square, etc.
b) Holding Tools - Bench Vice, Clamps
c) Cutting Tools and Shaping Tools - Saw, Chisel, Drill.
d) Smoothing and Finishing Tools - Planes, Rasp, Sand Paper (Emery Sheet)
e) Fastening and Removing Tools - Hammer, Mallet, Screw Driver, Wrench,
Spanners, Pliers
MARKING, MEASURING and LAYOUT
Pencil:
Pencils aren't precise enough for most marking, but a package of cheap mechanical
pencils will be handy to have around
Knife:
The best marking tool is a knife. The blades of the knife should be fine so that it can
follow a straightedge.
Steel rule:
A good metal ruler with graduations in centimetre & millimetre on one edge and inch
on the opposite edge. This is handy for measuring and as a straightedge.
Steel Tape:
The tape is an f1exible steel ruler coiled in a compact steel casing. This is used to
measure large dimensions in one stretch (up to 2 meters). Since the tape is f1exible,
measurements can be made on curved parts also.
Marking/ Measuring Gauge
It consists of a square bar of required length with graduations of a scale on one side
of the square along the length of the bar. A square slide with a thumb screw slides
along the length of the bar. The thumbscrew allows the slide to be moved along the
rule and locked in place. A scribing point at the '0' mark makes the scratch in the
wood.
The measuring gauge is used to mark lines and set distances from the edge of a piece
of wood
Mortise Gauge
It is similar to the marking gauge in construction except that there will be two
scribing points (Spur), one fixed and the other adjustable.
It is used to mark parallel lines of width equal to the distance between the fixed and
adjustable points.
TRYSQUARE
It consists of a steel blade fitted with a wooden handle in such a manner that the
handle and the blade are mutually perpendicular. Other variations of Try square are
A1itre Square and Bevel Square.
The Try square is used to mark perpendicular lines along the work piece with a pencil
or scribing tool. It is also used to check the flatness of any surface or squareness of
two adjacent edge.

HOLDING TOOLS
Carpentry Bench Vice
It consists of one fixed jaw and one movable jaw. The distance between the jaws can
be adjusted by a screw and nut arrangement. The entire vice can be rigidly fitted on a
bench (or) table.
Basically this is used to hold long bars of wood for woodworking.
C (or) G clamp
It has a 'C' (or) 'G' shaped frame. Through one of the frame, a lead screw and nut
arrangement is provided. The other end of the frame acts as a stop.
It is used for clamping large wooden planks rigidly on a table. It can also be used for
applying constant pressure on the wooden pieces that are glued together for better
adhesion.
CUTTING TOOLS AND SHAPING TOOLS
Saws
Saws are the most widely used woodworking tools. It consists of a toothed blade
made of steel fitted to an ergonomically designed wooden handle. The teeth are the
cutting points. Depending on the angle and the pitch of the teeth, saws are used for
various wood cuttin2: works. Saws are mainly specified by the pitch in number of
teeth per inch (TPI) and the overall It the different types of saws and their uses are
listed below:
Cross Cut Saw
• It is used for woodcutting across the wood grain.
• Usually the size of the saw will be 24" to 26" long with 8 toll tip.
• It doesn't cut as aggressively as rip saw but leaves a much smoother end
Rip Saw
• It is used for woodcutting with the wood grain.
• Usually the size of the saw will be 24" to 26" long with 4 to 7 TPI
• It cuts very aggressively and leaves slightly rough edge
Panel Saw: (Short Cut or Box Saw)
• It is used for woodcutting across the wood grain.
• It is usually shorter than regular cross cut saw and hence easily portabJ'6
Bow Saw
• It has a tubular steel frame with a ribbon-like, high-tension steel blade.
• It is used for woodcutting in any direction
Coping Saw
• It has deep steel tension frames and very thin blades to allow the user to make
. • It is used for fine woodcutting, coping joints intricate cuts at extreme angles
Back Saw
• It has a rigid piece along the back to prevent the saw from kinking during use.
• It is used for fine woodcutting, moulding and trimming

Dovetail Saw
•It has rigid back like backsaw, but is usually smaller and have finer teeth.
• It is used for wood joint cutting.
Keyhole Saw
• It is used for circle and curve cutting in wood
• It has very thin, pointed blades for cutting small, tight radius curves and holes
Compass Saw
• It has longer, coarser blades than keyhole saws
• It is used for circle and curve cutting in wood
• It is designed for slightly heavier work like cutting holes In sub flooring for
plumbing or electrical wiring Chisel
Chisel
A chisel is a metal tool with a sharp bevelled edge, used to cut and shape stone,
wood, or metal. It is typically made of hardened or tempered steel or more rarely,
common steel. It consists of a sharpened end (called the blade) attached to a straight
handle. The handle of most chisels are made from ash, beech, box wood or plastic the
handle and blade of some types of chisels are made in one piece.
Types of Chisel
While using a chisel, the worker forces the chisel, into the material to cut the
material. The driving force may be manually applied, or in some cases using a mallet
(not a hammer).
Chisels can be classified as
Wood working chisels - used to remove sections of wood
Cold Chisels - used to remove sections of metal

Firmer Chisel
Firmer chisels have a blade with a rectangular cross-section. This means that they are
stronger and can be used for tougher/heavier work. It is useful for large scale
carvings
Bevel edge Chisel
Bevel edged chisels are slightly undercut making them easy to push into corners.
These are normally used for finishing dovetail joints. It is also widely used for
chopping and
Shaping.
The limitation of Firmer chisel in reaching into the corners as compared to Bevel
Edge Chisel is illustrated below:
Butt Chisel
It is the shorter version of the regular, bevel edge chisel with much the same use.
Many carpenters carry them for mortising door locks as they are stocky and smaller
than a regular chisel
Mortise Chisel
The end section will have an elongated rectangular section. Jt is thick and rugged. It
is used for chopping mortises (rectangular holes or slots)
Paring Chisel
A paring chisel is a longer, thinner chisel which can be pushed into long joints such
as housing joints
It is used for cleaning up the joint and to make it an accurate fit. Used for paring
down mortises that have been chopped or drilled, or other delicate work
Skew Chisel
The edge of the blade is perpendicular to the edge of the tool in all other types of
chisels but for skew chisels the edge of the blade is angled to the perpendicular,
hence skewed. It is often used by carvers and turners
Differentiating the chisels

A gouge, one type of chisel, is used, particularly in woodworking and sculpture, to

carve small pieces from the material. Gouges are most often used in creating Concave
surfaces. A gouge has a 'U'-shaped cross-section.

Drill
A Drill Tool is meant for making holes. For drilling small holes either a bradawl or
hand drill can be used. For drilling large holes a brace and bit is used.
The nominal use of Bradawl is to make indentations in wood in preparation for
insertion of screws.
The hand drill consists of a cranking handle that turns pinion gears on the main shaft.
A chuck at the end of the shaft holds a drill bit. The opposite end of the shaft has a
second handle that is held stationary while the chuck turns.
A Brace is a hand tool used to drill holes, usually in wood. Pressure is applied to the
top and the tool is rotated with a U-shaped grip.
SMOOTHING AND FINISHING TOOLS
Planes
These are smoothing and shaping tools and can be treated as an icon for carpenter.
The most commonly used plane is a Jack plane which is meant for general purpose
work. Other variants are (i) Trying Plane - used for precision work.
(ii)Smoothing or Block Plane - used for trimming end grain and small items.

Rasp
A rasp is a finishing tool used to remove sharp edges and smoothen the surfaces.
Similar to fi les it has different cross sections like half round etc. A half-round rasp is
useful I for shaping and smoothing semi-circular grooves.

Sandpaper

Small particles of abrasives are glued to a flexible thick sheet of paper or cloth. These
are called as Sand Papers or Emery Sheets. These are meant for preparing the
wooden surfaces as smooth as possible. This operation is usually done before
polishing or painting the wood. Depending on the density of the abrasives the sand
papers are classified as coarse, medium and fine.

FASTENING AND REMOVING TOOLS

Hammer
These are tools familiar to every one of us. Basically all hammers have a heavy
metallic head with a wooden handle fitted tightly into the head. The construction of
the head differs depending on the purpose of its use. The figures shown alongside are
self-explanatory. The hammers are primarily meant for driving or removing nails and
for flattening

Claw Hammer
It is used for driving and removing nails. Warrington Hammer: It is used for driving
small nails-
Ball Peen Hammer
It is used for metal working operations and for riveting
Mallets
These are wooden hammers used for giving light. This is extensively used in
carpentry and sheet metal work
JOINERY
Joinery is the method by which different pieces of wood are attached, and is often an
indication of the quality of a piece of furniture. The manner in which separate
components of a chair, table or chest are attached to each other reflects the strength of
construction as well as appearance. Listed below are the most common types of
joinery used in furniture construction.
Butt or Lap Joint
A butt joint is a simple method of connecting two pieces of wood with the square end
of one piece being placed against the side of another. The two pieces form a right
angle and are joined by a nail, screws or a dowel. The end grain of one piece will
show from one side or the other.

Cross Lapped Joint

In a cross lapped joint, a rectangular section is cut out of each of two pieces of wood
that are to be joined. The recess is cut from each piece at the point where they
intersect. The recessed surfaces interlock and must be equal in depth so that when the
two pieces are joined they are flush

Dovetail Joint
Dovetail joints connect two pieces of wood by flaring the end of one piece to
conform to the shape,
Which is cut out of the second piece. It is the strongest of all joints. If the end of the
flared piece does not extend all the way through the second piece it is an invisible
joint and called a stopped or lapped dovetail joint. This method is commonly used on
drawers and cabinets. A dovetail joint can also be used to join several pieces together,
with each piece having a flared end and a cut end.

Miter Joint
In a miter joint, two pieces of wood are cut at a forty-five degree angle and the two
bevelled edges are placed end to end. They are usually connected by glue, nails or
screws. These joints are best looking as no end grain shows. It is difficult to
construct.

Mortise and Tenon

In this method of joinery, one piece is called the mortise and the other is the Tenon. The
mortise is a shaped recess, and the Tenon is a carved projection, usually rectangular. The
Tenon is inserted into the mortise in the same way a peg is inserted into a hole. The two
pieces are generally secured by drilling a hole through the two pieces and inserting a dowel.
The joint is very strong and is commonly used for connecting chair or table rungs to legs.

GENERAL PROCEDURE FOR PREPARING AND MARKING

J. Preparing

I) Measure and check the overall dimensions of the given work piece and make sure the
required component can be made with the given work piece.
2) Usually the timber provided will be long enough to produce both the mating pieces
required for the joint. Therefore first you have to measure and cut into 2 pieces to be able to
produce the male part from one piece and the female part from the other piece. The
measurement for the length can be made using steel tape after providing allowance for
finishing operations. Mark anyone piece as 'I' and the other piece as '2' with pencil
3) At least one face should be smooth and plane, to make that face as reference for measuring
and marking purposes. This face is called as Face Side (A). Check the flatness with steel rule
as shown in figure (b).
 4) Check the perpendicularity of the adjacent surface with the face side and mark that edge as
Face Edge (B) in pencil.
5) If required make one end of the wooden piece, plane and true

II. Marking
1. If the length to be marked is long, say, more than 100 mm, then use a steel tape to measure
and mark (using pencil or knife) from the face edge (B), keeping the tape parallel to the
direction of measurement.
2. If the length to be marked is short, say less than 100 mm, then use a marking gauge as
described below.
I. Loosen, the thumb screw and slide the square block of the marking gauge to the required
length and lock in place.
ii. Place the square block butting against the face edge (B) so that the scribing pin is
perpendicular to the face where marking is to be made.
111. Now glide along the butting surface to and fro to obtain a clear marking on the wooden
piece.
The marked line will be parallel to the gliding I reference surface.