Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.

(Textile)

Q1. Define the term of printing?

Printing can also be defined as localized dyeing. Defined as the application of dye or pigment in
a different pattern on the fabric and by subsequent after treatment of fixing the dye or pigment to
get a particular design. Textile printing is the most versatile and important of the methods used
for introducing color and design to textile fabrics. We may print as a fabric form or apparel form.

Q2. Define the term of advanced garment printing?

Advanced garment printing is modern printing technique. Now apparel printing is become very
popular. Today‟s print is a very important thing for this textile sector. Print makes clothes
attractive. We can‟t imagine a dress or clothes without print. Printing sector is also expanding
and changing every day with the fashion trend. Print technology is growing up with the Clothes
industry. 99% fashion clothes are now must have any print on it. Printing is the production of all
active designs with well defined bound arises made by the artistic arrangement of a motif is one
or more colors. Printing is a process for reproducing text and image, typically with ink on paper
using a printing press. Advancement in technology has paved the way for a much better garment
printing. The art of direct printing on garment is simplified by the technology every day. You
can already choose and create your own design for t-shirts and other garments regardless of how
complex the design is. By we may get advanced garment printing distinct and unlimited effect.

Q3. Name list of advanced printing used for garments?

 Digital Printing
 Flock Printing
 Flex Printing
 High Density Printing
 Foil Printing
 Puff Printing
 Cavier Bead Print
 Glitter Printing
 Metallic Print:
 Burn Out Printing
 Reflective print
 Plastisol Print
 Rubber Printing
 Crack Printing
 Spray Printing
 Transfer Printing
 Heat transfer printing
 Heat Transfer Vinyl Printing
 Dye sublimation printing
 Floral Print

Page 1 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

Q4. State the technique of digital printing?

Digital print directly transfer print onto the fabric by ink. In advanced technology develop no
need a paper or film which is used previously to print digitally. New machine directly print
fabric. Digital printing is the ideal printing technique for photos and colorful designs which have
gradients. This printing technique does not last as long as flex and flock. The colors fade over
time. In this form of printing micro-sized droplets of dye are placed onto the fabric through an
inkjet print head. The print system software interprets the data supplied by academic Textile
digital image file. The digital image file has the data to control the droplet output so that the
image quality and color control may be achieved. This is the latest development in textile
printing and is expanding very fast.

Digital Direct Printing

 Print with computer-operated digital print, ideally suited for large-scale prints.
 Colors are sprayed on and made durable with a hardener. The fabrics can still be felt
when touching the design.
 Results in a relaxed “vintage look”. The design looks a bit faded, don‟t expect brash
colors.
 Digital direct is not available for all of our products.

It is the more advanced type of digital printing.

This includes:-
 Jet spray printing
 Electrostatic printing
 Photo printing
 Differential printing

Effects and Presences of Digital Printing

There has been no greater effect on the print industry over recent years than the introduction of
digital printing. As technologies have gone from strength to strength, it is fast becoming the go to
medium for businesses throughout the country. Ideal for short and long runs, on-demand printing
and time sensitive campaign runs, the flexibility afforded by printing digitally is a huge benefit to
many - both in initial investment and return on investment.
In the best print companies, there are a number of techniques which can be used for digital
printing. Methods include electro photography (using dry and liquid toner), laser imaging on
photographic paper, thermal transfer (dye sublimation transfer and mass transfer) and most
commonly, inkjet printing.
Electro photography digital printing uses the application of liquid or dry toner onto photo
receptive surfaces, upon which a charge is produced from a laser or similar light source. This
transfers the toner either directly to paper or to paper through a blanket sheet, which is then fused
to create the intended image.

Page 2 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

Q5. What is meant by Direct to Garment Printing (DTG?)

The concept of direct to garment printing process basically includes the use of a DTG printer to
lay down a water based ink with chemical binders on the garment such as a T-shirt. The ink was
then cured to the T-shirt using a textile conveyor dryer or a heat press. Generally, the machine
utilizes a 4- color ink process that mixes magenta, black, cyan, and yellow to create the desired
colors in the design. While screen printing technique is considered to be traditional and known
by everybody, direct to garment printing is fairly new. Because it is new, the printer is also very
expensive, but the quality of the printed t-shirts is excellent. With the direct to garment printers,
the design is printed directly on t-shirt or on the desired product (mouse pad, caps etc.).The art
process allows unlimited colors and shades to be printed, thing that could not be possible with
the screen printing. It is the perfect option for photo t-shirts and very detailed images. Direct to
garment printing is considered to be the only professional option for low run orders. That means
you can print one t-shirt or 100 without problems. The printing process in the case of DTG takes
longer than in the case of screen printing and the big disadvantage is that the artwork can‟t be
printed on dark t-shirts (with few exceptions). Also, that‟s the reason why the printer does not
print the white color. The result is professional and designs are not felt on the garment.

Q6. What is meant by flock printing?

Flocking is the process of depositing many small fiber particles (called flock) onto a surface. It
can also refer to the texture produced by the process, or to any material used primarily for its
flocked surface. Flocking of an article can be performed for the purpose of increasing its value in
terms of the tactile sensation, aesthetics, color and appearance. It can also be performed for
functional reasons including insulation, slip-or-grip friction, and low reflectivity. Besides the
application of velvety coatings to surfaces and objects there exist various flocking techniques as
a means of color and product design. They range from screen printing to modern digital printing
in order to refine for instance fabric, clothes or books by multicolor patterns. Presently, the
exploration of the flock phenomenon can be seen in the fine arts.These types of printing
technique consist of the application of flock (very short fiber) to the surface of a fabric by means
of an adhesive. The flock may be contained in the adhesive paste, may be dusted onto it, or
applied electrostatically to hold it erect. This is used to print various small designs onto the
fabric, such as dots and figures, especially on light-weight or sheer fabric.

Flocking is defined as the application of fine particles to adhesive coated surfaces. Nowadays,
this is usually done by the application of a high-voltage electric field. In a flocking machine the
"flock" is given a negative charge whilst the substrate is earthed. Flock material flies vertically
onto the substrate attaching to previously applied glue. A number of different substrates can be
flocked including; textiles, fabric, woven fabric, paper, PVC, sponge, toys, automotive plastic.

Page 3 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

Q7. Describe the flocking process?

The process of flocking is fairly simple and easy. First a suitable adhesive is applied to the
surface to be flocked. The flock is then applied, penetrating the surface of the adhesive to create
the desired velvet finish.

Electrostatic flock applicators charge the flock particles which are then attracted to the grounded
surface that is to be flocked. Unlike puffer or blown application methods which merely sprinkle a
flock layer onto the surface, electrostatic application ensures that the fibres all end up standing at
right angles to the surface resulting in a velvet finish.

Electrostatic flocking is used extensibly in the automotive industry for coating window rubbers,
glove boxes, coin boxes, door cards, consoles, and dashboards. Rally cars usually have their
dashes flocked to reduce reflections and to provide an as new finished to a modified dash.

Flocking is proving successful in a number of artistic ventures including the decoration of

jewellery, ceramics and pottery.

Using suitable adhesives flock can be applied to an endless range of materials including plastic,
metal, wood, rubber and fiber glass.

Q8. Write about flock/requirement of flock?

Flock can be made from natural or synthetic materials such as cotton, rayon, nylon and polyester.
There are two types of flock - milled and cut. Milled flock is produced from cotton or synthetic
textile waste material. Because of the manufacturing process, milled flock is not uniform in
length, and can vary from fine (0~ - 0.5 mm) to coarse (0.4 - 1.1 mm). Cut flock is produced
only from monofilament synthetic materials. The cutting process produces a very uniform length
of flock. Lengths can be obtained from 0.3 - 5.0 mm and 1.7-22 dtex in diameter. (One dtex is
the measurement of a fibre that weigh; one gram per 10,000 meters of length.) The fineness of
the flock, length of fibres and adhesive coating density determine the softness of the flocking. It
should be noted however, that fine or short flock is difficult to work with, since it has a tendency
to ball-up during processing. Milled cotton flock has the advantage of being the lowest in cost
and the softest, but has the least abrasion and wear resistance. Rayon is a little bit better on wear
resistance and nylon is the best. For cut flock, rayon is the least expensive with the least wear
resistance. Cut nylon is the best grade of flock and produces a good feel, but is also the most
expensive. Cut polyester is basically used for industrial applications such as automobile window
seals, glove compartments, and roofing. Besides cutting or milling, flock manufacturing includes
several other steps. After cutting, the flock is cleaned of oils that accumulated during processing.
It is vat dyed to any number of colours, and then chemically treated to enable the fibres to accept
an electrical charge. Since the fibres are all dielectric, a certain amount of conductivity must be
present for electrostatic flocking process to occur.

Page 4 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

Q9. Shortly discuss Flock Printing Process for garments printing?

1. Preparing the print screen and arrange the flock powder:
After getting the artwork or design from a buyer need to prepare the screen for printing. And
collect the flock powder as per buyer color requirement. Also we have purchased the flock based
on buyer quality requirement. It can be cotton flock or polyester flock.
2. Making the Gum:
After arranging the flock powder we have to make or purchase the gum. This gum must be high
quality. At present most of the print factory buys the gum from chemical house. In this regards,
this gum has a limited expiry period. Which is +/- 6 hours. After preparing the gum we can
maximum use this gum for next 6 hours. If the printers use it after 6 hours then flock print can be
waste out or come off from the fabric.
3. Lay the fabric and paste the gum:
Now we have to lay the fabric on the table and paste the gum on it by using the print screen.
This time screen man paste the gum on the fabric instead f color. Gum take the place on the
fabric as in design.
4. The flock print:
After pasting the Gum on fabric as per design by using the screen we put the fabric on an electric
plate. Actually this technique is for polyester flock print. After putting the fabric on the plate we
have to place the flock powder on it evenly by use of a net like tools. In this point the electric
plate attracts the polyester fiber by electric powder. In this process gum attached the flock with
fabric.
5. Finishing process of flock print:
After placing the flock on fabric we have to dry fabric. Now dry the flock printed fabric by a belt
curing machine at a specific temperature.
6. Quality checking and delivery:
Then we have checked the quality and deliver the goods for sewing.

Q10. Write short note about flock adhesive or flock binder?

Adhesives
A wide variety of flock adhesives are available, both single part and two-part catalysed systems.
Adhesives are generally water or solvent based. Some are air drying, others temperature or
catalyst curing. Adhesives are usually applied by brush, roller, spray or screen printing.
Flock Binder
Chemical: Acrylic Emulsion
Appearance: Milky White liquid
Requirement of good flock printing: High Quality flocking binder. An adhesive gives very soft
and silky Feel.
Flock Binders that are available in different shades and colors. It finds application in textile
industry and used as an adhesive for the lamination of film to paper/fabric. Flock Binder is well
known for its long lasting features and useful for variety of purposes.

Q11. Shortly discuss High Density printing for garments printing?

This is one of the recent developments in printing which gives thick prints on the surface of
garments.Achieved by either giving more number of coats or by using thickener indirect films

Page 5 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

used for making the screens. This type of printing applies by screen. Rubber or plastic sold is
used as a paste. Screen applies many times on a same design. If it may be thick around 5-6mm
then apply high density sticker. High Density is a popular special effect that rises straight up off
the shirt and has a hard rubbery feel with sharp edges. A High density print has slight glossy
finish

 High- Density Printing the process of printing a specially formulated ink through a very
thick stencil to achieve a raised, glossy smooth print with very sharp edges.
 A high density ink allows you to achieve a three-dimensional effect with sharp, well
defined outlines.
 The process is very slow but the end product is unique.
 This is one of the recent developments in printing which gives thick prints on the surface
of garments.
 Achieved by either giving more number of coats or by using thickener indirect films used
for making the screens.
 High Density is a popular special effect that rises straight up off the shirt and has a hard
rubbery feel with sharp edges. A High density print has slight glossy finish.

Q12. Show the flow-process of High- Density Printing in respect of garment

printing?
Fabric/ Garments Pre-Treatment

Prepare High-density paste (100%)

Screen Table/ Machine preparation

Fabric Plaited on the table

High-density Paste apply by screen

Curing at 160 °C (Belt speed 3 min/min)

Delivery

Q13. Shortly discuss Foil printing for garments printing?

Foil printing is to print some pattern with the foil on the fabric for shiny effect. There are two
kind of foil printing method. This printing method is based on the use of metallic foil paper of
aluminium or copper one. Foil is applied by adhesive. The print fixation method is similar to
transfer printing. This print method is popular amongst youngsters.

In the first method, the pattern is printed by a foil/transfer adhesive on the fabric, and then
pressed with foil paper by hot steel roller.

Page 6 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

The pressure is generally 5-6 bars on printed portion and at 190 degree Celcius on fusing
machine for 8-12 seconds.
In the second method, printing is done on the foil paper first, and then foil is pressed on the
fabric with hot steel roller or iron.

Q14. Write short note about Foil?

Foil is actually a heat press application, but can be applied on press for certain affects. Foil
adheres to plastisol inks or a clear foil adhesive. Available in silver, gold, bronze, red, and blue.
There are some awesome iridescent foils affects available too - just check with your sales rep.To
get the gold /silver stamp, a foil layer is affixed to a certain material by a heating process. It isn‟t
too complicated of a process and getting the files ready are quite similar to uv-spot printing. See
my guide on preparing files for print as a reference and talk with your printer about how to
supply the files. Foil printing normally requires vector images and/or outlined fonts of what you
want to have stamped.

Q15. Show the flow-process of Foil printing with standard recipe in respect of
garment printing?

Recipe: It is a simple recipe; this recipe can be charged on the depth of the color and types of
dyes use.
Foil paste-90%
Fixer-10%
Sequence of foil printing

Fabric preparation

Fabric plaited on the table

Foil gun/ Foil paste apply by screen

Dry slightly in air temp. /hand dryer

Apply foil paper on the fabric

Heat applies by heat press m/c (150c for 5 sec.)

Cooling for 4 sec

Foil paper removed by hand

Delivery

Page 7 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

Q16. Write about puff print?

Puff print is another common print in the fashion industry. Sometimes it called emboss print
also. It is almost similar to the rubber print we can make this print in any color. In puff print
rubber and puff chemical used combined. Mainly buyer asked this print on this print on knitted
T-shirt. The printing process is same as other serene print. One of the original specialties affects
in the world of screen printing. Puff ink is a plastisol that has been modified with the addition of
a heat reactive foaming agent. The ink expands when exposed to high temperature heat as the
garment is cured. An additive to Plastisol inks which raises the print off the garment, creating a
3D feel. In this method when the paste is printed and dries it look like normal printing garments
but once it is cured the prints gets raised from the surface of fabric.

Q17. Shortly describe puff print process for garments printing?

Printing process:
 Like as other print we make the print screen at first.
 We make rubber color as manual.
 Mix an Emboss or Foaming paste with the following color.
 Then print on the garments with following color mixer like as a normal rubber print.
Then we dry the print area by using heat. This the turning point of the print. Because after getting
the heat the print becomes puffed. Normally we dry the print area with dryer for small print. If
the print area is larger than we heat press the print with curing machine. I advice all to use heat
press machine instead of hand dryer. It will make the puffed evenly, before heat press please
adjusts the temperature and pressure of curing machine to get the correct output. Less heat will
give you a less puffed print.

Puff Additive
Jacquard Puff Additive is used to increase the relief of prints on paper, fabric and other surfaces.
Simply mix a little of the additive into your Jacquard Screen Ink (up to 20%), print as usual and
then apply heat to your print. The microspheres in the Puff Additive expand with heat, giving
you a raised print only after heating. Once puffed, the print is washfast and dry cleanable.

Q18. What is meant by glitter print?

Glitter is a unique, clear digital print and cut material for full-color printing that adds the bold
look of sparkly glitter. Glitters add on the garment with paste and fixed by heat on a specific
area. This is a clear material with flakes of glitter built in. Glitter is excellent for small designs
and detailed logos and is compatible for use with Eco-Solvent, Solvent, Latex, and thermo resin.
Glitter describes an assortment of small, flat, reflective particles. Glitter reflects light at different
angles, causing the surface to sparkle or shimmer. Glitter is like confetti or sequins, only smaller.
Since prehistoric times, glitter has been made and used as decoration, from many different
materials including stones such as malachite, galena, mica, insects, and glass. Modern glitter is
usually manufactured from plastic.

Page 8 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

Q19. Shortly describe glitter print technique with standard recipe in respect of
garment printing?
Recipe: This is a simple printing recipe. It will be changed according to the shade of the delivery
printed goods.
Rubber paste-70%
Fixer-2%
Glitter-28%
Sequence of Glitter printing process on Textile materials: By the following way glitter
printing is done on the knitted or woven fabric

Fabric pre-treatment

Table preparation

Fabric plaited on the table

Glitter paste apply by screen

Hanging for 15 mins for dry

Curing 160c (speed 3m/min)

Delivery

Q20. What is meant by Burn out Printing?

Cotton and other cellulosic fibers are destroyed by strong mineral acids or their acid salts. This
procedure is sometimes referred to as “Burn Out”. A cotton / polyester blended fabric can be
printed with a print paste containing the burn out chemicals, and after fixation, the cotton portion
is destroyed and only the polyester remains. This allows a patterned lacey design to be imparted
to the fabric. It also is possible to incorporate a disperse dye in the burn out paste and dye the
polyester during the burn out phase. This process is very corrosive and requires special screens
and special care in handling.

Q21. State the principle of burn out printing for a particular batch by which we
get a vintage look?
• Scour the fabric by machine washing in HOT 140oF (60oC) water, or by hand in a pot on
the stove with (2 gm) PRO Dye Activator and (2.5 ml) Synthrapol per pound of fabric
(454 gm, or 3 to 4 yards cotton muslin, or 8 yards 8mm China Silk, or 3 Medium T-shirts,
or 1 sweatshirt). Rinse thoroughly. This step does not add the dye fixative to the fabric; it
prepares the fabric for dyeing by removing any dirt, oil or sizing.

• Mix the thickener paste a few hours, or even the day before use it. In a large plastic or
stainless steel bowl, measure 2 cups (500 ml) of room temperature 75o to 95oF (24o to
Page 9 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

35oC) water. In a separate dry container measure a 1/3 cup (50 gm) of guar gum. Using a
blender or hand mixer, starts blending just the water, then gradually add the guar gum.
Continue blending until well mixed. Allow to stand several hours or overnight for a
smooth paste.

• Make the burn-out paste just before you are ready to use it. Measure cup plus 2 Tbl (220
ml) of 100oF (38oC) water and dissolve cup (200 gm) of sodium bisulfate in the water.
Remember to always add the acid to the water, as a safety precaution. Once the sodium
bisulfate is dissolved, add a cup (80 ml) of glycerin and the thickener paste made in step
2. Mix thoroughly using your blender or hand mixer. Discard the burn out paste after
three days.
• Prepare a padded surface to print on. If we do not have a padded print table, we can
create a padded surface by laying down a terry cloth towel on your work table and taping
it in place with masking tape. Cover the terry cloth towel with plastic or a canvas drop
cloth. Then secure your fabric with masking tape on the plastic, or with T-pins on the
canvas drop cloth.

• Apply the burn-out paste to the fabric. Screen print, stencil, or apply the burn-out paste
freehand, with foam or bristle brush. Make sure the burn-out paste penetrates through to
the back of the fabric. The best paste penetration is achieved by screen printing, followed
by stenciling, and then freehand applications. When working on silk/rayon velvet, it is
best to print on the back side of the fabric rather than the pile. It is important to sample
your method of application before working on large projects, to make sure the fabric will
burn-out successfully.

• Allow the fabric to air dry thoroughly. We can also speed up the drying by using a hair
dryer.
• Carefully remove the burned out (carbonized) areas of your fabric by one of the methods
listed below. This part can be messy, so work outside if possible and always wear a
cartridge respirator to avoid inhaling the small fibers.
 Gently hands wash the fabric.
 Gently brush off the burned out fiber by hand.
 Use a small hand held vacuum.
• Wash thoroughly with warm 110oF (44oC) water by hand or machine wash on gentle
cycle with tsp (2.5ml) Synthrapol per pound (454 gm) of fabric. Rinse thoroughly and
hang to dry.
* Curing time and temperature are needed to be pre tested (Lab Trial), some time while using
light blends, Polyester portion also get damaged. So, consequently no good print. One can
choose one of these temperatures and times
1. 160C @ 5Min
2. 180C @ 2Min
3. 200C @ 1Min

Q22. Write about Rubber Printing?

The Rubber Printing System is the first ink jet printer in the world to successfully print with co-
curable inks on uncured tire components and rubber products. This specialized printer fully
Page 10 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

automates the marking process, streamlining the production process and eliminating marking
mistakes.

Q23. Show the flow-process of Rubber printing with standard recipe in respect of
garment printing?
Rubber printing is done of the important printing process. After apparel manufacturing printing
is done on the surface of the fabric.
Recipe:
Rubber-60%
Clear-38%
Fixer-2%

Process flow chart of rubber printing: Rubber printing is done as the flowing way in a printing
unit.
Table preparation

Fabric plaited on the table

Rubber printing paste apply with the help of screen

Hanging the fabric for 15 min

Curing at 150c(speed 5 m/min)

Hanging the fabric for 30 min

Curing at 150c(speed 5 m/min)

Delivery

Q24. Write about Crack Printing?

Crack printing is a printing method to produce attractive design on the fabric surface. Here
rubber is used as the printing paste. It is near similar as rubber printing process but additional
crack paste is used before applying rubber printing paste by the screen printer on the cotton
fabric. In crack print when pull the print, it seem like crack, but rubber print when pull it may
seem crack effect.

Q25. Show the flow-process of Crack printing with standard recipe in respect of
garment printing?

Printing recipe:
Rubber-98%
Fixer-2%
Page 11 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

Add crack paste/clear (Ecocrack White & Clear. Suitable for crack effect silkscreen prints on
polyester-cotton blend and cotton fabric, these are Eco-friendly water based that are soft auto-
crack inks. Further, this white/clear provides an auto crack finish with elasticity, wash fastness,
smoothness, excellent softness and hand feel.)

Process flow chart of crack printing:

Following sequence is the crack printing

Table preparation

Fabric plaited on the table

Crack paste / clear apply with the help of screen

Dry in air temp or hand dryer m/c(slight)

Printing paste apply with the help of screen

Curing at 190c( be it speed 2 m/min)

Delivery
Crack printing can be produced on the surface on T-shirt and other finished knit fabric and
woven fabric. Water based ready paste giving effect with mud crack appearance on knitted/
stretchy fabric giving very soft hand feel & colour fastners towards world class standards &
world class eco system.

Q26. What is meant by Transfer Printing?

Transfer printing is the term used to describe textile and related printing processes in which the
design is first printed on to a flexible nontextile substrate and later transferred by a separate
process to a textile. It may be asked why this devious route should be chosen instead of directly
printing the fabric.

Q27. Write down the advantage and disadvantage of transfer printing?

1.Designs may be printed and stored on a relatively cheap and nonbulky substrate such as
paper, and printed on to the more expensive textile with rapid response to sales demand.

2. The production of short-run repeat orders is much easier by transfer processes than it is
by direct printing.

3. The design may be applied to the textile with relatively low skill input and low reject
rates.

4. Stock volume and storage costs are lower when designs are held on paper rather than
on printed textiles.

Page 12 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

5. Certain designs and effects can be produced only by the use of transfers (particularly
on garments or garment panels).

6. Many complex designs can be produced more easily and accurately on paper than on
textiles.

7. Most transfer-printing processes enable textile printing to be carried out using simple,
relatively inexpensive equipment with modest space requirements, without effluent
production or any need for washing-off.
Against these advantages may be set the relative lack of flexibility inherent in transfer
printing: no single transfer-printing method is universally applicable to a wide range of
textile fibres. While a printer with a conventional rotary-screen printing set-up can
proceed to print cotton, polyester, blends and so forth without doing a great deal beyond
changing the printing ink used, the transfer printer hoping to have the same flexibility
would need to have available a range of equipment suited to the variety of systems that
have to be used for different dyes and substrates using transfer technology.
Advantages
1. Operation is simple and no expensive m/c is required.
2. No after treatment of fabric required
3. Print on fabric is of excellent quality
Disadvantages
1. Process applicable to synthetic fabric like polyester.
2. Color range is limited.
3. Cost of printed paper high.
4. Not economical for small orders.

Q28. What are the types of Transfer Printing?

There are four types of Transfer printing-

1.Sublimation or dry or vapor phase Transfer printing

This method depends on the use of a volatile dye in the printed design. When the paper is
heated the dye is preferentially adsorbed from the vapour phase by the textile material
with which the heated paper is held in contact. This is commercially the most important
of the transfer-printing methods.

2.Melt Transfer printing

This method has been used since the 19th century to transfer embroidery designs to
fabric. The design is printed on paper using a waxy ink, and a hot iron applied to its
reverse face presses the paper against the fabric. The ink melts on to the fabric in contact
with it. This was the basis of the first commercially successful transfer process, known as
Star printing, developed in Italy in the late 1940s. It is used in the so-called „hot-split‟
transfer papers extensively used today in garment decoration.

3.Film Release Transfer printing

This method is similar to melt transfer with the difference that the design is held in an ink

Page 13 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

layer which is transferred completely to the textile from a release paper using heat and
pressure. Adhesion forces are developed between the film and the textile which are
stronger than those between the film and the paper. The method has been developed for
the printing of both continuous web and garment panel units, but is used almost
exclusively for the latter purpose. In commercial importance it is comparable with
sublimation transfer printing. [12]

4.Wet or migration Transfer printing

Water-soluble dyes are incorporated into a printing ink which is used to produce a design
on paper. The design is transferred to a moistened textile using carefully regulated
contact pressure. The dye transfers by diffusion through the aqueous medium. The
method is not used to any significant extent at the present time.

Q29. What is heat transfer printing?

Heat printing, also known as heat transfer printing, is the process of applying heat-applied
materials to various items (i.e., substrates) with a heat press. Heat-applied materials contain a
heat-sensitive adhesive on one side; when heat is applied by a heat press to the material, the
material adheres to the substrate to which it is being applied. Transfer papers require the artwork
to be printed in reverse. Most heat transfer papers will be made for laser or ink jet printers and
will fall under two categories regardless if they are professional grade or not.

Three key components to consider when decorating with a heat press are: time, temperature, and
pressure. Every heat transfer material has its own heat printing instructions.

 Time: The amount of time, in seconds, that heat must be applied to the design/garment.
 Temperature: The optimal degree at which the design will adhere to the garment.

Pressure: The amount of downward force needed when heat applying.

Q30. Shortly discuss heat transfer printing Process for garments printing?
The process of heat transfer printing begins with the printing of a design which can be as simple
as a single color print or as complex as a full color image. The image is printed using a modified
Oki color laser printer and the print medium used is a special range of transfer papers that are
specifically designed for use with the Oki laser printer.

Once the design has been printed, it is applied to the garment using one of our swing away heat
transfer presses.

 The first step of the process is to get the picture that you would like. We will put it in our
computers and touch-up the image.
 We then print this from our high quality printers on commercial heat transfer paper.
Although this is similar to iron-on paper that you can get at a retail store, it is NOT. The
commercial paper we use will last much longer, and will not peel, fade, or bleed.

Page 14 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

 Each image is hand cut. We commonly add a small border around an image to aid in
durability.
 The image is accurately positioned on the product using lasers to ensure straightness.
Then it goes to the Heat Press. A Heat Press is like a really big iron that can evenly put
down hundreds of pounds of pressure, while accurately controlling temperatures.
 The commercial paper that the image is printed on melts into the fibers of the clothing,
making it a part of the item without disturbing the image.
 Using the Heat Transfer method we are able to print in as many colors as you would like
and on any color fabric. The colors come out bright and bold.

Q31.Shortly discuss dye sublimation print for garment printing

Sublimation method depends on the use of a volatile dye in the printed design. When the paper is
heated the dye is preferentially adsorbed from the vapor phase by the textile material with which
the heated paper is held in contact. This is commercially the most important of the transfer-
printing methods. The dye sublimation inks are a pigment suspended in a liquid solvent, like
water. The images are initially printed on coated heat-resistant transfer paper as a reverse image
of the final design, which is then transferred onto polyester fabric in a heat press operating at a
temperature around 180 to 210 C (375 F). Under high temperature and pressure, the dye turns
into a gas and permeates the fabric and then solidifies into its fibers.
Q32. Discuss the dye sublimation print process for garment printing
Sublimation sampling can be done on Digital printing machine. But digital is not production
friendly due to more lead time and cost per meter is high.
We can do production using Roller printing machine only for bigger run.
Process-the required design is 1st printed on paper on a roller printing machine for bulk
production and then this paper along with the fabric sandwich together and passed thru heated
continues paper press to transfer the print from paper to fabric.
Roller printing machine is a machine where copper rolls are used for printing and any design
with multiple color merging, ombray effect can be achieved for bulk production, since the copper
roll are very- very expensive so this printing machine is no longer used in Indian textile industry
but frequently used in china and Korea to achieve excellent print result in heat
transfer/sublimation print.
Any print that digital printing machine produced and rotary can‟t do, can be achieved using roller
printing machine thru sublimation process.
The combination of heat and pressure cause the sublimation ink to convert into a gas, which is
received simultaneously by the substrate‟s opened polymers. (This is an over-simplified
explanation of the process, but it works for our purposes.) After the heat application is completed
(about a minute), the transfer paper is removed and discarded. When the product cools down, the
sublimation dye is encapsulated within the surface (instead of on top). The result is a high-
resolution, permanent coloration that won‟t peel or crack. And in the case of apparel, sublimation
will not fade, even after multiple washings.
 Normally, as matter is heated, it progresses through the stages of solid, liquid, then gas.

 The process of sublimation involves taking matter directly from the solid state to the
gaseous state, without becoming a liquid in the process.

Page 15 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

 With a dye sublimation printer, this process allows for ink to be dyed into fabric via heat,
which makes the dye permanent and allows for photo-realistic images of fabrics.

Dye sublimation process

 Dye sublimation allows photo lab quality picture printing. During the dye sublimation
printing process, an image is digitally printed in reverse with dye sublimation toners or
inks on to media.

 •That image is then placed on top of a fabric and subjected to high heat and pressure to
form a heat press.

 •The dye sublimation toners or inks sublimate–the inks go from a solid state to a gaseous
state without becoming liquid in between and flow into the fabric, dyeing the threads.

 •This creates a gentle gradation of color and does not distort or fade overtime.

 By using the dye sublimation process, you save money as well as the environment
because the images last just as long as the T-shirts, hats, and other materials the images
are printed on.

Benefit of Dye Sublimation

 Any image can be printed all over the fabric

 The result of heat transfer printing and digital printing using low sublimation disperse
dyes would be the same.

 Colors can be extraordinarily brilliant due to the bonding of the dye to the transparent
fibers of the synthetic fabric.

 Truly continuous tones can be achieved that are equivalent to photographs, without the
use special techniques such as half-screen printing.

 Dye Sublimation allows you to get high quality at an affordable price.

Disadvantage of sublimation printing

• Back side of fabric always is white as it only prints the surface of the textile.

• Sampling cost is high.

• Cost and lead time will be high for smaller run.

• Not success for light weight qualities like chiffon, ggt.

• If we stretch the fabric 20% or more then you lose a whole stack of color depth when the
white shows through the fabric/knit ribs (dark blue suddenly becomes light blue, black
becomes grey).
Page 16 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

• Sublimation heat transfer is suitable for polyester fabric only.

• The limitation of sublimation is that it only works on polymer-based surfaces.

Q33. Shortly discuss Reflective printing Process for garments printing?

In this printing highly reflective ink is used for printing, when exposed to light it reflect by
Reflective Ink. Reflective ink is made up of a clear base combined with thousands of tiny
aluminum coated glass beads.These beads are highly reflective when exposed to light. The ink
has a muted grey color when printed and a bright silver/white color when reflecting. Because the
ink color is so muted we recommend that all the reflective ink used in a design be either outlined
or surrounded by other print colors to improve.

Adding reflective ink to your design is a relatively inexpensive way to make sure that your shirts
will stand out from the crowd.
Composition
TiO2-BaO-SiO2
Refractive Index
1.93+-0.01nd
Size range
20-105um(can be provided by request)
Color
siliver

Q34. Define the technique of Spray Printing

This is one kind of printing which give white effect on a specific area of garments. All type of
textile & garments are suitable for spray printing. White pigment paste is used for this type of
printing. This spray can be water based colours, metallic glitters like gold & silver. These are
designed and developed using superior quality material giving very soft hand feel & colour
fastness towards world class standards & world class ECO system.

Q35. Write the difference between Rubber print and crack print?
In both print Rubbers is used as the printing paste. Crack printing is near similar as rubber
printing process but additional crack paste is used before applying rubber printing paste by the
screen printer on the fabric. In crack print when pull the print, it seem like crack, but rubber print
only rubber and fixer are commonly used no use crack inks to produce crack effect. So when pull
the rubber print, it seem like solid, smooth, plain and no crack effect.

Q36. Write the difference between High density print and puff print?
High density screen printing at first glance seems to be some sort of high-quality puff print.
Actually, the high density inks are not puff inks at all. In high density print Rubber or plastic

Page 17 of 18
Advanced Garment Printing Azmir Latif, MSc.Engr.(Textile)

sold is used as a paste. Screen applies many times on a same design. If it may be thick around 5-
6mm then apply high density sticker. High Density is a popular special effect that rises straight
up off the shirt and has a hard rubbery feel with sharp edges. A High density print has slight
glossy finish. On the other side puff print rubber and puff chemical used combined. The puff ink
expands when exposed to high temperature heat as the garment is cured. When the puff inks
which raises the print off the garment, creating a 3D feel. In this method when the paste is
printed and dries it look like normal printing garments but once it is cured the prints gets raised
from the surface of fabric. Sometimes it called emboss print or foam print also.

Q37. Write the difference between Glitter print and Metallic Print?
• Gives metallic look.
• Similar to glitter, but smaller particles suspended in the ink.
• Smooth in texture when compared to glitter
• Glitter reflects light at different angles, causing the surface to sparkle or shimmer but in
metallic print overall print gives sparkle, shiny or shimmer look.

…….…00000000…end...00000000……….

Page 18 of 18