Summer3-13 8/4/04 11:23 AM Page 4

This is the correct method of installing any alloy wheel. Use a torque wrench, following correct torque
value and the proper criss-cross tightening pattern to avoid stressing or distorting the wheel or hub/rotor.

INSTALLING
ALLOY WHEELS
Let’s face it: Wheel installation is brake or suspension system jobs. handling and proper installation of
rarely viewed as a topic deserving of In reality, the wheels, and their alloy wheels, which deserve even
much attention. Most shops tend to means of attachment to the vehicle, greater attention due to their higher
zip them off, mount and balance, are the most important components cost and because of the potential for
and bang them back onto the vehi- on any vehicle. After all, if the cosmetic damage.
cle. Basically, wheels are considered wheels fall off, it’s never a pretty
by many techs as components that picture. WHEEL FASTENERS
are essentially “in the way” when In this article, we’ll discuss the Instead of referring to these all-
performing other services such as basics of wheel fasteners and the critical pieces (the only thing that
4
Summer3-13 8/4/04 11:23 AM Page 5

T O Y O TA’ S S U P P O R T T O A U T O M O T I V E R E PA I R

INSTALLING ALLOY WHEELS

clamps the wheel to the hub) gener-

ically as “lug nuts,” get into the habit
of calling them “wheel fasteners,”
since that’s an apt description of
their task.
Also, although Toyota vehicles use
a threaded stud (affixed to the hub)
and a nut system to secure the
wheels, some vehicles feature female
threaded holes in their hubs and
require the use of wheel bolts. This
is just one reason to use the term
wheel fasteners to broadly refer to
any wheel-to-hub clamping system.
Fastener sizing cards are handy to determine bolt or stud diameter
CHECK FASTENER SIZE (both inch and metric), as well as bolt or stud shank lengths and nut
AND STYLE diameters.
Granted, when you remove an
original Toyota wheel and replace match the seat style required by the UNDERSTANDING
the wheel using the same Toyota wheels at hand. Never mismatch by THREAD SIZE
nuts, you won’t have a nut-matching using a mag/shank type fastener on Fastener sizing involves selecting
problem. However, if you’re dealing a wheel intended for a conical seat, the correct diameter, thread pitch
with a customer’s vehicle that fea- etc. Only the correct, matching type and length for proper thread
tures aftermarket wheels, or have seat will provide the required wheel engagement. Following is a basic
been requested to change the clamping. In the case of blind overview.
wheels from OEM to aftermarket, (capped/enclosed) wheel nuts,
never assume that you already have make absolutely sure that the nut DIAMETER
the correct style of wheel nut. Check does not bottom-out against the This refers to the diameter of the
to make sure that the thread size is stud tip (this can occur if the nut is threaded section of the fastener
correct (shank diameter and thread too short for the application) This (outer diameter of a bolt shank or
pitch), and make absolutely sure situation will prevent full clamping stud; or inner diameter of a nut’s
that the fastener’s seat style matches force, resulting in wheel wobble and threaded hole).
that of the wheels. Using an incor- almost-certain failure of the thread- Threaded fastener size is referred
rect seat style will prevent secure ed studs. to with a series of three numbers,
clamping of the wheel to the hub, Wheel fastener threads must be which indicate thread diameter,
and will certainly result in loosen- clean and in good condition. Do not thread pitch and shank length, in
ing during operation. Packing/ship- lubricate threads unless specifically that order. For example, a 1/2 x 20 x
ping mistakes are always possible, instructed to do so by Toyota tech- 4 indicates a bolt or stud that fea-
so never blindly assume that what nical information specific to the tures a 1/2-inch diameter shank, a
you have is correct. vehicle being serviced. Torque val- thread pitch of 20 (20 threads per
Wheel fastener seat styles include ues are commonly specified based inch) and a shank length of four
60-degree taper/conical seats, on the use of dry threads. The use inches. If the fastener is metric, the
radius (also called spherical or ball) of lubricants will result in over- numbers refer to the same dimen-
seats or mag-style straight shank clamping and possibly stretching sional areas, but are indicated using
with flat washers. the stud beyond its design yield metric dimensions. For example, a
Make sure that the new fasteners point. 14 x 1.5 x 45 refers to a 14mm
5
Summer3-13 8/4/04 11:23 AM Page 6

INSTALLING ALLOY WHEELS

length of the shank. For example, a

1/2-inch x 20 wheel stud is 1/2-inch
in diameter, and has a thread count
of 20 threads per inch of shank
length.
When using a metric format, the
first number indicates the thread
shank diameter in millimeters
(12mm, 14mm, etc.). However, met-
ric thread pitch numbers indicate
the distance between threads. For
example, a thread pitch of 1.25 indi-
cates that the distance between two
adjacent threads is 1.25mm. If the
thread pitch is 1.50, the distance
between threads is 1.5mm. The last
number of a stud or bolt size indi-
cates length. A size of 14mm x 1.5 x
35, for example, indicates a stud or
bolt that is 14mm in diameter, a
thread pitch of 1.5mm and a shank
length of 35mm.
In inch format, the higher the
pitch number, the “finer” the
threads (more threads per inch of
Thread pitch gauges (available in both inch and metric formats) pro- shank length). Using a 1/2-inch
vide an easy and accurate method of determining the wheel stud
thread pitch, eliminating any guesswork. diameter fastener as an example, a
thread pitch of 13 is “coarse,” while
thread diameter, a thread pitch of 12mm in diameter, the nut or stud a thread pitch of 20 is considered
1.5mm and a thread length of is a 12mm size, not a 19mm (refer- “fine.” Using a 1/4-inch diameter
45mm. ring to the size of socket required). fastener as an example, a thread
A common mistake some folks When sizing any fastener, ignore the pitch of 20 is considered coarse,
make is to incorrectly identify nut service end (hex head). It’s only the while a 28 pitch is considered fine.
or bolt sizes, confusing hex head diameter of the thread area that Basically, in inch format, each fas-
size with thread size. The size of the indicates the fastener’s size. tener thread diameter size offers
fastener (thread area diameter) two choices — coarse or fine. With
refers to the diameter of the thread- THREAD PITCH regard to wheel fasteners, the
ed area (threaded hole in a nut or All Toyota vehicles feature metric threads are always “fine.” As com-
threaded shank on a stud or bolt). wheel fasteners. However, simply to pared to coarse threads, this pro-
The wrench size required to service provide a better understanding of vides increased bolt strength and
the fastener does not indicate fas- threaded fasteners, we’ll offer an potential clamping load. If a wheel
tener size. The width of the hex overview of both “inch” and metric fastener is 7/16-inch diameter, the
head (let’s say a nut requires a 3/4- formats. thread pitch will be 20. If 1/2-inch
inch or 19mm socket) has no bear- When using inch format, the diameter, thread pitch will be 20. If
ing whatsoever on fastener size. For thread pitch number indicates the 9/16-inch diameter, thread pitch
example, if the threaded area is number of threads along a one-inch will be 18. In metric format, the
6
Summer3-13 8/4/04 11:23 AM Page 7

T O Y O TA’ S S U P P O R T T O A U T O M O T I V E R E PA I R

INSTALLING ALLOY WHEELS

higher the number, the more hard plastic and are available to bolt wheel that provides a bolt circle
“coarse” the thread pitch. For exam- cover both inch and metric sizes) of 114.3mm (4.5 inches).
ple, a 1.0 pitch is “very fine,” a 1.25 and two thread pitch gauges (one If you want to manually measure a
pitch is “medium fine,” a 1.5 pitch is inch and one metric). That’s all you bolt circle,here are some easy methods:
“medium” and a 1.75 pitch is need to quickly and accurately read
“coarse.” Metric wheel fasteners will any wheel bolt or nut without any 1. With a four-bolt or six-bolt pat-
commonly either feature a 1.25 or guesswork. tern, measure from the center of
1.5 thread pitch, regardless of one stud (at the hub) or wheel hole,
thread diameter. BOLT CIRCLE to the center of an opposing stud or
The term “bolt circle” or “bolt pat- wheel hole.
LENGTH tern” refers to the diameter of the 2. With a five-bolt pattern, orient
The amount of thread engagement circle formed by the wheel or hub the hub or wheel to place one fas-
between the stud and nut (or wheel fastener mounting locations. Toyota tener location at 12-o’clock.
bolt to hub) is critical. At the mini- models use bolt circles of 100mm Measure from the center of the 12-
mum, thread engagement length (3.93 inches), 114.3mm (4.5 inches) o’clock location to a horizontal line
must be equal to or greater than the and 139.7mm (5.5 inches). A desig- drawn across the bottom of the two
diameter of the fastener. In other nation of 4x100 indicates a wheel bottom studs or wheel holes.
words, if the stud is 12mm in diam- with four bolt holes, with the holes
eter, the nut must engage onto the positioned to create a 100mm circle Bolt circle information is usually
stud by at least 12mm. If not, either (when measured through the cen- provided on the wheel (look at the
a longer stud or longer nut must be terline of all holes). A wheel desig- rear of the wheel, the information
used (if a longer nut is needed, the nation of 5x114.3 indicates a five- should be stamped or cast on the
nut must protrude further through
the wheel hole to meet the stud).
Use of longer nuts is possible when
the nut features an extended shank
that offers greater thread length.
This will vary depending on nut
style. If this isn’t feasible, a longer
stud must be used.
When using wheel bolts or capped
(enclosed) nuts, care must be taken
to avoid bottoming the bolt or nut.
For example, if the stud offers one
inch of exposed length for nut
engagement, but the threaded hole
in the nut is only 3/4-inch deep, the
nut will bottom-out on the stud and
will not clamp the wheel against the
hub.
In order to accurately identify the A plastic sizing disc provides multiple holes, each labeled for bolt cir-
thread diameter, pitch and length of cle reference. Simply align the disc onto the wheel (or onto the hub
any wheel fastener, you can handle studs) until all of the hub or wheel holes align on the disc, and read the
numbers on the disc to identify the bolt circle. For illustrative purpos-
this by obtaining a total of three es, we’ve marked the holes that align to the wheel shown here. Note
readily available tools: a combina- the numbers that we’ve highlighted in black (at upper left of disc), not-
tion bolt/nut sizing card (these are ing that this wheel features a 100mm bolt circle.

7
Summer3-13 8/4/04 11:23 AM Page 8

INSTALLING ALLOY WHEELS

wheel’s center section, likely on the tightened. It is absolutely

rear of a wheel spoke). vital that the seat style of
Checking a hub or wheel bolt pat- the fastener matches the
tern can also be performed with the seat style of the wheel’s
aid of specialty tools. A bolt circle fastener hole entry. The
reference “disc” (these are available use of incorrect seat
in all bolt circle sizes) offers multi- styles, even though
ple hole patterns, with each hole thread pitch and thread
labeled. Simply drop the disc onto a diameter may be correct,
hub (or place on the rear mounting can easily result in wheel
surface of the wheel) until all holes damage during tighten- This handy caliper-style tool can be used to
align. Note which holes align (per ing, and fastener loosen- quickly determine bolt circle. Insert both pins
the hole labels). Another method ing during vehicle oper- into adjacent holes and read the gauge.
involves the use of a specialty slid- ation. If the fasteners
ing caliper type tool. Insert the two loosen, the wheel will “wobble” as it “acorn” nut. However, others will
tapered pins of the tool into two moves in relation to the hub. interpret the term “acorn” as a
adjacent wheel holes and note the Eventually, this movement, or play, radiused or ball-style fastener seat.
reading on the tool’s gauge. will ruin the wheel’s fasteners holes, Always make sure that you clearly
resulting in either breaking the understand the terminology for seat
WHEEL NUT SEAT STYLES wheel or complete loss of the styles.
The contact area between the fas- tire/wheel assembly. The majority of Toyota wheels
tener and the wheel is referred to as Do not confuse the style or shape require the use of conical (also
the “seat.” This is the surface area of the fastener head with the shape called tapered) seat-style nuts.
where the fastener actually contacts of the fastener’s seat. If a wheel nut However, citing the 1999-2001
the wheel and where clamping pres- features a radiused head (rounded Avalon, Camry, Solara and Sienna
sure is applied when the fastener is head), some folks may call this an models as examples, two different
accessory wheels were offered. Style
Wheel 1 (wheel part number PT351-
00990) features a conical seat, while
Style 2 (wheel part number PT351-
Wheel nut (flat point-type) 00991) features a flat-seat (“mag”)
style nut. Each wheel requires the
Wheel
Clearance
use of a specific style nut.
Axle hub
Attempting to use a conical-style
nut on a wheel that features flat
seats (or using a flat-seat nut on a
wheel that features conical seats)
Axle hub
will result in both wheel damage
Wheel nut (taper point-type)
and certain loosening.

AN EXPLANATION OF
WHEEL NUT SEAT STYLES
The most commonly employed
Two types of wheel nuts are used with Toyota wheels. Some alloy seat styles include conical, radius
wheels use shank type (mag) wheel nuts that feature flat mounting
bosses. Steel wheels use tapered (conical) wheel nuts. The two and flat (“mag”). These terms refer
styles are not interchangeable. to the shape of the seat (where the
8
Summer3-13 8/4/04 11:23 AM Page 9

T O Y O TA’ S S U P P O R T T O A U T O M O T I V E R E PA I R

INSTALLING ALLOY WHEELS

Shown here are two conical/tapered nuts (two at left); and two ball/radius fasteners at the right. Note that
the two conical nuts feature different engagement lengths. The nut at the far left terminates at the bottom
of the tapered seat while the nut to its right features a slight extension below the conical seat area. The
extended nut (second from left) may be required for a thicker alloy wheel, in order to achieve proper thread
engagement to the stud. Pay strict attention to both seat style and proper thread engagement!

fastener contacts the entry of the the nut (or base of the head on a over the hub’s threaded stud). The
fastener hole in the wheel. wheel bolt) is rounded into a ball shank length varies depending on
shape. It’s like a ball that is cut in wheel thickness and stud length.
CONICAL half, with only the radius remain- When using a capped nut (where
Conical seats are also called ing. The male ball seat fastener con- the female threaded hole does not
“tapered” or “cone” seats. All three tacts the wheel’s female radiused pass all the way through the nut),
terms refer to a seat that features an ball relief. it’s important to pay attention to
angled seat wall, where the dimen- thread engagement length.
sion of the taper is largest at the top, MAG (FLAT SEAT)
under the head, and tapers to a The term “mag” refers to a fasten- FASTENER TORQUE
smaller diameter where the angle er that features a flat contact at the When tightening any wheel fas-
meets the rear face of the nut (or wheel (usually including a thick flat teners, we need to consider the
adjacent to the threaded shank on a washer). The generic term “mag” is degree of tightening in order to
wheel bolt). The most common a holdover from the early days of achieve proper clamping load. In
angle of taper is 60 degrees. The custom wheels, when magnesium addition, we need to consider the
male taper nestles into a tapered was sometimes used to make light- tightening sequence, or pattern, to
relief pocket at the fastener hole weight racing wheels. The mag style assure that clamping loads are even-
entrance. nut also features a smooth outer- ly distributed across the hub contact
walled shank that serves to help area.
RADIUS center the wheel (the shank drops Threaded fasteners, by design, are
Radius seats are also called “ball” through the wheel hole, serving as a intended to stretch slightly when
seats, with good reason. The rear of guide pin to center the wheel’s hole fully tightened to specification. This
9
Summer3-13 8/4/04 11:23 AM Page 10

INSTALLING ALLOY WHEELS

mated hub/rotor, leading to vibra-

tion complaints. Additional wheel
cosmetic damage can result if sock-
et-to-fastener recess is minimal, or
if a thick-walled socket is used that
minimizes clearance, the outer wall
of the socket can abrade against the
wheel’s nut recess.
If the socket is dirty, abrasive
damage to both the fastener and
wheel are possible. In addition,
excessive tightening can cause the
nut or bolt seat to pound into the
aluminum wheel’s seat pocket,
Any busy shop should have their torque wrenches periodically re- displacing the aluminum (goug-
calibrated in order to maintain accuracy and consistency. ing/deforming the alloy). This can
lead to eventual fastener loosening,
creates a preload, which is what “tuner” nuts are used, the narrow since the seat base integrity has
serves to clamp the wheel securely splines can be burred. Probably the been deformed or reduced.
to the hub. If undertightened, the biggest area of concern is inaccurate Excessive tightening can also stress
nut (or bolt) can gradually loosen, and/or excessive clamping loads, the wheel stud, permanently
and we all know the consequences which can distort the wheel and its stretching the threaded shank
of that. If overtightened, the stud or
bolt can exceed its “elastic” range,
and can permanently stretch
(fatigue), which destroys its ability
to provide clamping load. If this
happens, the stud or bolt can either
loosen on its own or can break dur-
ing operation. Especially when deal-
ing with today’s lightweight alloy
wheels and sometimes light (and
thin) rotor mounting faces, severe
wheel vibrations under braking can
occur if wheels are improperly or
unevenly tightened.

REASONS TO NOT USE

AN IMPACT GUN ON
ALLOY WHEELS
An impact gun (especially when
installing wheels) can wreak havoc
on alloy wheels. Fastener damage
can occur as a result of a socket While the use of a torque wrench is preferred for tightening an alloy
wheel, if an impact gun must be used, be sure to employ torque
banging against a nut’s chrome plat- sticks, which feature a pre-set torsional limiting range to prevent
ing. If aftermarket spline-drive over-tightening.

10
Summer3-13 8/4/04 11:23 AM Page 11

T O Y O TA’ S S U P P O R T T O A U T O M O T I V E R E PA I R

INSTALLING ALLOY WHEELS

beyond its elastic point, weakening

the stud considerably. When this
happens, the stud may eventually
break or allow the nut to loosen.

WHEEL FASTENER
TORQUE VALUES
Always refer to the Toyota tighten-
ing specifications for proper wheel
fastener torque values. Listed here is
a broad generalization of torque
values, based on fastener size, for
example only. If the customer brings in aftermarket wheels, pay attention to the
hubcentric fit of the wheel’s center hole to the hub’s center flange
Vehicle Torque
lip. Since the vast majority of Toyota vehicles use a hubcentric fit,
RAV4 76 ft-lbs (103N-m)
make sure that the wheel closely centers itself at the hub. Some
MR2 76 ft-lbs (103N-m)
aftermarket wheels may be made to fit a variety of vehicles, in which
Avalon 76 ft-lbs (103N-m)
case the wheel’s center hole may be larger than is required for prop-
Camry 76 ft-lbs (103N-m)
er fit. In these cases, hubcentric adapter rings will be needed. Here a
Solara 76 ft-lbs (103N-m)
hubcentric ring is installed onto an aftermarket wheel. The inside
Celica 76 ft-lbs (103N-m)
diameter of this ring will match the required size for the customer’s
Echo 76 ft-lbs (103N-m)
Toyota vehicle.
Scion tC 76 ft-lbs (103N-m)
Prius 76 ft-lbs (103N-m)
end. Using this tool on the air gun are tightened, the wheel is centered
Sienna 76 ft-lbs (103N-m) allows you to pneumatically tighten onto the hub, guided by the wheel
Highlander 76 ft-lbs (103N-m) the wheel fastener to within a theo- studs and the seating of the wheel
Scion xB 76 ft-lbs (103N-m)
retically acceptable range. Each nuts. This requires precise location
Scion xA 76 ft-lbs (103N-m)
Corolla 76 ft-lbs (103N-m) “stick” is color coded and labeled in of both wheel bolt holes and the fas-
Matrix 76 ft-lbs (103N-m) terms of its hex size and its torque tener locations on the hub.
4Runner 83 ft-lbs (110 N-m) range. When the stick is subjected A hub-centric wheel is centered
Tacoma 83 ft-lbs (110 N-m)
Tundra 83 ft-lbs (110 N-m)
to its pre-set torque range, the cen- onto the hub via the fit of the wheel
Sequioa 83 ft-lbs (110 N-m) ter section of the tool begins to center hole at the hub face. The hub
Land Cruiser 97 ft-lbs (131 N-m) twist (similar to a torsion bar face will feature a center lip that
spring), theoretically preventing engages into a recess on the wheel’s
tightening the fastener beyond that hub face. Hub-centric designs more
TORQUE WRENCHES pre-set range. If you can’t convince precisely locate the wheel onto the
PREFERRED your shop to take the time to use a hub, to minimize the chance for
While the use of a calibrated torque wrench, at the very least be installed-radial-runout. All later-
torque wrench is always preferred sure to use a torque stick. model Toyota wheels and hubs are
for wheel fastener tightening, an designed for hub-centric fitments.
option (if your shop decides that it CHECK WHEEL However, some earlier Toyotas (1989
simply must use an air gun) CENTERING and older) may feature lug-centric
involves the use of “torque sticks,” Wheels are designed to center onto designs, wherein the wheel is cen-
which are available individually or the vehicle hubs by one of two meth- tered onto the hub as the wheel nuts
in sets. ods: lug-centricity or hub-centricity. are tightened.
Each tool is essentially a short tor- A lug-centric wheel relies on cen- It’s important to recognize which
sion bar with a 1/2-inch drive at one tering via the fastener locations type of centering you have. If the
end and a hex socket at the other only. As the lug nuts (or wheel bolts) hub design calls for a hub-centric
11
Summer3-13 8/4/04 11:23 AM Page 12

INSTALLING ALLOY WHEELS

mounting, take a close look at both

the wheel’s hub face and the vehi-
cle’s hub face itself. In the case of
Toyota wheels, the wheel centering
hole is precisely machined to fit the
hub center flange lip.
If an aftermarket alloy wheel is to
be used, a hub-centric ring adapter
may be required in order to attain a
proper fit, since the aftermarket
wheel may feature a larger center
hole (which makes the wheel adapt-
able to various hub center fitments).
When adapter rings have been
used on the vehicle in the past, it is
possible that an old adapter ring
has stuck to the hub. If this ring is
not the correct size for the wheel
being installed, the wheel may not
be able to seat flush against the hub. Always follow the proper torque sequence and torque values when
installing the wheels. The objective when tightening is to evenly
This is sometimes easy to miss, so spread the clamping loads across the bolt circle pattern, to avoid
always check the hub face flange isolated and excessive loading. Failure to follow the correct tight-
diameter and the diameter of the ening sequence can lead to distortion of the wheel and hub/rotor.
wheel’s hub face to make sure they
match before installing the wheels. centered on the hub. If the wheel Caution, if wheel spacers are used,
The wheel must fit flush against requires rings and none are used, make sure they don’t effect the
the hub, and the wheel must be you’ll have an off-center installation. wheel track and/or the number of
threads on the wheel studs. If old
rings are stuck to the hub, but the
new wheels don’t need them, or if
you try to double-up old rings that
are stuck to the hub and new rings
on the wheels, the wheels won’t
mate flush to the hub, which will
cause severe axial runout. Always
check closely.
NOTE: If the aftermarket wheels
that the customer has chosen include
hubcentric ring adapters (these may
be either aluminum or plastic), be
sure to use them. Even if you feel that
the fasteners will center the wheel, the
rings provide a closer-tolerance fit to
A corrosive (electrolysis) reaction can occur between an alloy wheel the hub center and will allow you to
and a steel hub, resulting in future wheel removal difficulty. To avoid
this, first clean the hub and wheel, and apply a thin coating of a better center the wheel during fasten-
high-temperature anti-seize paste onto the hub surface. er tightening.
12
Summer3-13 8/4/04 11:23 AM Page 13

T O Y O TA’ S S U P P O R T T O A U T O M O T I V E R E PA I R

INSTALLING ALLOY WHEELS

TIGHTENING SEQUENCE should be visible somewhere on the

Always install ANY wheel by tight- wheel surface (rim or rear of the
ening the fasteners in a criss-cross center section). Use of an alloy
pattern in order to provide even wheel that is not designed to sup-
clamping loads. Uneven tightening port the weight of the vehicle at
can easily result in a distorted hub hand is to be avoided, since the risk
or wheel, leading to vibration com- of wheel failure is possible.
plaints and brake pedal-bounce
complaints. TIPS:
• Two styles of center caps (if
If the customer has aftermarket
AFTERMARKET WHEELS used) includes the type that pops wheels, check to verify that the
If the customer has requested a into place from the outside of the wheel load rating is proper for
change to aftermarket wheels center, and the type that is inserted the weight of the vehicle. Never
and/or oversized tires that he or she from behind the wheel hub face. If install a wheel that is under-
rated for the vehicle at hand.
has provided, it’s important to verify the caps are to be inserted from the
wheel and tire clearance. rear, make sure that the cap flange • After installing a set of custom
After mounting one tire/wheel, test matches the wheel’s center hole wheels onto the customer’s vehicle,
fit the assembly onto the vehicle. chamfer and is below the wheel’s place one-wheel’s set of original
With the vehicle on the lift, check for mounting surface. If the cap pro- Toyota nuts in a Ziploc bag and
clearance between fender, suspen- trudes beyond the mounting sur- store this in the vehicle (in the orig-
sion and brake components with the face, this will create an obstruction inal Toyota vehicle tool kit, next to
tire/wheel in a straight ahead posi- that won’t allow flush seating of the the spare tire or jack, etc.). If the
tion and during full turns (lock-to- wheel to the hub. This will result in customer ever needs to install the
lock) in each direction. This is espe- false torque value readings and can original Toyota spare wheel/tire in
cially important when an upgrade cause an axial runout condition. an emergency, he or she will have
has been performed where tire sec- • To avoid corrosion that may the correct fasteners, since the fas-
tion width and/or wheel offset and cause an alloy wheel to “stick” to a teners that are used with the after-
backspace has changed (as com- steel or iron hub, apply a very thin market wheels may differ in length
pared to original Toyota specifica- coating of an anti-seize paste to the or style from the OE. Also, the vehi-
tions). Next, lower the vehicle in hub face where the wheel makes cle-equipped Toyota lug wrench
order to compress the suspension, contact. Don’t apply too much, as might not fit the new fasteners, as
and repeat the clearance inspection any excess can sling out as a result the aftermarket nut hex size may
(have a helper bounce the vehicle as of centrifugal force and can con- differ from those used by Toyota.
well, to further inspect for clearance taminate the wheel face or brake • This brings up a point well worth
issues). It’s better to discover an surfaces. A thin coating of this com- mentioning. If the aftermarket fas-
interference problem at this point as pound will make it easy to remove tener hex size differs from the
compared to after all four the wheels in the future, preventing Toyota nut size (let’s say for example
wheels/tires have been mounted, bal- electrolysis (corrosive reaction that the Toyota nuts require a 19mm
anced and installed. between aluminum and steel). Don’t wrench, but the aftermarket fasten-
NOTE: If the wheels have been apply lubricant to fastener threads, ers might require an 18mm or
supplied by the customer, be sure to since fastener torque specification 11/16-inch wrench), be sure to
check the wheel’s rated load range. values are based on the use of clean, advise the customer of the need to
This is especially important if the dry threads. By lubricating the carry an appropriate-sized socket
customer has selected a passenger threads with a slippery substance, and breaker bar to allow the after-
car wheel for a truck or SUV appli- inaccurate (usually too high) torque market wheel to be removed during
cation. The wheel’s load range values may be obtained. a roadside tire change. ★
13