Manicure and

3 Pedicure Services

Introduction
The two most common services that are provided by
beauty parlours are ‘manicure’ and ‘pedicure’. A Beauty
Therapist is expected to be proficient in providing these
services. ‘Manicure’ is a treatment that improves the
appearance of nails and hands, and softens them,
whereas, ‘pedicure’ has the same impact on feet. Since
manicure and pedicure relax the muscles and skin
of the hand and feet, respectively, it is important to
understand some basics about the anatomy of the hand
and feet.
The Beauty Therapist, in particular, must know about
the following:
• anatomical structure, functions and characteristics
of nails, and the process of nail growth. The
structure of the nail includes:
▫▫ Nail root matrix
▫▫ Nail mantle
▫▫ Nail plate
▫▫ Nail wall
▫▫ Nail grooves
▫▫ Nail bed
▫▫ Lunula
▫▫ Free edge
▫▫ Hyponychium
▫▫ Cuticle
 • anatomical structure of the skin and its functions. Notes
The structure of the skin includes:
▫▫ layers of the epidermis — dermis and
subcutaneous layer
▫▫ hair follicle, hair shaft, sebaceous gland,
arrector pili muscle, sweat gland and sensory
nerve endings
• names and position of bones in the lower leg
and feet
• names and position of bones in the wrist, hands,
fingers and forearm
• structure and functions of lymphatic vessels in
the lower leg, feet, hands and arms
• position of arteries and veins in the lower leg, feet,
hands and arms
• location of muscles in the lower leg, feet, hands
and arms
• nail diseases and disorders
• nail and skin analysis by visual or manual
examination to identify treatable conditions and
contra-indications, restricting or preventing a service

Session 1: Anatomy of the

Nail, Hand and Feet
Anatomy is the study of the structure of the body of
humans and animals, what it is made of, i.e., bones,
muscles and skin.
The human body consists of various organ systems,
such as circulatory, digestive, respiratory, excretory,
nervous and endocrine. A synergistic function of these
systems is vital for the health and wellness of a person.
Beauty therapies help relieve stress through massage
and naturopathy procedures or other alternative
therapies, which relax the muscles. Therefore, it is
important to know about the anatomy of arms, legs,
hands and feet. The main systems of human body are
— respiratory, venous, arterial, muscular, digestive,
skeletal, nervous, lymphatic, endocrine, urogenital and
integumentary (Fig. 3.1). The knowledge of anatomy
also helps in the identification of diseases, infections
and contra-indications.

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 Respiratory Venous Arterial

Muscular Digestive Skeletal Nervous

Lymphatic Endocrine Urogenital Integumentary

Fig. 3.1: Body systems

Skeletal system
Its main function is to protect the internal organs. For
example, the ribcage protects the heart and lungs, the
skull protects the brain, vertebral column protects
spine, and so on. The skeleton works with the muscular
system, which provides movement and control of the
body. Muscles are attached to bones and they are
collectively responsible for postures and movements.
The skeletal system is composed of the following.
1) Bones: These form the framework of the human
skeleton.
2) Bone marrow: These are flexible tissues located
in bones, where blood cells are produced.
3) Joints: The point at which two or more bones meet
is called a ‘joint’. Joints not only connect bones
but also bear our weight and enable us to bend
and move.
4) Cartilage: These are the connective tissues
found in joints, which support other tissues that
cannot rejuvenate. Cartilage does not contain
blood vessels.
5) Tendon: It is the tissue where a muscle attaches
to the bone.
6) Ligament: It is the tissue that connects two bones.

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 Massage assists the skeletal system in these ways:
• improves posture
• improves muscle tone
• reduces joint stiffness and pain
• increases flexibility of muscles
• increases range of motions
• reduces inflammation
• improves soreness and fatigue
• reduces the number and intensity of muscle spasms
• facilitates body alignment
• facilitates mineral retention
• relaxes tight muscles and tendons
Let us now take a look at the following diagrams
[Fig. 3.2(a), 3.2(b) and 3.3] for a better understanding
of bones.

Humerus
(upper arm)

Femur
(upper leg)

Patella (knee cap)

Ulna
Forearm
Tibia
Radius
Lower leg Fibula

8 Carpals (wrist)

5 Metacarpals (hand)

14 Phalanges
(finger bones)

Fig. 3.2(a): Bones of 7 Tarsal (ankle)

the arm Fig. 3.2(b):
5 Metatarsals (foot) Bones of the leg

14 Phalanges (toe bones)

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 Talus

Tarsals:
Navicular

Intermediate cuneiform

Calcaneus Medial cuneiform

Phalanges Tarsals:
Cuboid
Lateral cuneiform

Metatarsals
Metacarpal
bones Phalanges:
Proximal
Middle
Carpal Distal
bones
Fig. 3.4: Bones in the foot

Fig. 3.3: Bones in fingers and wrist

Muscular system
There are over 650 muscles in the body, which are
responsible for providing strength, movement, balance,
contraction, posture, stability and muscle tone (Fig. 3.5).
Muscles are mainly of three types — skeletal, cardiac and
smooth. They provide stability to joints, such as knees
and shoulders, work together to contract and provide
posture and heat production.
Massage assists the muscular system in the
following ways:
• reduces connective tissue thickening
• helps in toning up the muscles
• decreases fibrous adhesions from muscle tissue
injury or immobilisation
• enhances cell activity
• enhances posture and balance
• enhances range of motions
• facilitates movement
• facilitates waste removal in the lymph system
• increases flexibility
• reduces pain
• helps in post-operative rehabilitation, a period of

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 recovery after
a surgery Deltoid Trapezius
• provides relaxation
Pectoralis
• releases facial Biceps
Triceps
constrictions Rectus abdominus
Latissimus dorsi
Finger flexors
• stimulates the Obliques Finger extensors
Gluteus maximus
circulatory system
• stimulates the
Quadriceps Hamstrings
nervous system’s
Gastrocnemius
sensory neurons
• warms up or Soleus
warms down
muscles during
Fig. 3.5: Muscles in the body
an exercise

Structure of the nail

In order to provide manicure and pedicure services to
clients, there is a need to learn about the structure and
functions of nails. A Beauty Therapist must be able to
judge when is it safe to work on clients and when they
need to see a dermatologist.
Nails tell a lot about a person’s health. Healthy nails
are smooth, shiny and translucent pink. Systemic
problems in a person can show up in the nails as nail
disorders or poor nail growth.
Nails are made up of a protein called ‘keratin’. The
purpose of nails is to protect the ends of fingers and
toes, and help the fingers grasp small objects. Adult
fingernails grow at an average rate of 1/8 inch per
month, whereas, toenails have a slower growth pattern.
Usually, a complete nail takes 4–6 months to grow.
The growth of nails is faster during summers than in
winters. The nail growth is the fastest on the middle
finger and slowest on the thumb.
The nail is divided into six parts — root, nail bed,
nail plate, eponychium (cuticle), perionychium and
hyponychium [Fig. 3.6 (a and b)]. Each structure has
a specific function, and if disrupted, it can result in an
abnormal appearing fingernail.

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 Free edge Nail growth and structure
of the nail

Nail growth
Nail plate
Nails grow throughout life but their growth slows down
with age and poor blood circulation. Fingernails grow
faster than toenails at a rate of 3 mm per month. It
Lateral
nail fold takes 4–6 months for a nail to grow from the root to the
Lunula free edge. Toenails grow about 1 mm per month and
Eponychium take 12–18 months to be completely replaced.
(Cuticle)
Nail root
(a)
The root of the fingernail is also known as ‘germinal
Nail Nail Cuticle
matrix’. It lies beneath the skin behind the fingernail
matrix root Distal edge
Nail plate of nail plate and extends several millimetres into the finger. The
root produces most volume of the nail and the nail bed.
This portion of the nail does not contain melanocytes or
Hyponychium
Nail bed
melanin producing cells. The edge of the germinal matrix
is a white, crescent-shaped structure called ‘lunula’
Phalanx (bone of the fingertip)
[Fig. 3.6 (a and b)].
(b)
Fig. 3.6 (a and b): Structure Nail bed
of the nail
Nail bed is a part of the nail matrix called ‘sterile matrix’.
It extends from the edge of germinal matrix or lunula
to hyponychium. The nail bed contains blood vessels,
nerves and melanocytes or melanin producing cells. As
the nail is produced by the root, it streams down along
the nail bed, which adds ‘kerat’ to the under surface of
the nail, making it thicker [Fig. 3.6 (a and b)].

Distal (free) edge Nail plate

Nail plate is the actual fingernail and is
Nail plate
made up of translucent keratin. The pink
Lateral
Lateral nail fold nail fold appearance of the nail comes from blood
vessels that lie underneath the nail plate.
Lunula The underneath surface has grooves along
Eponychium
Cuticle
Proximal
the length of the nail that helps to anchor
Nail root nail fold the nail bed [Fig. 3.6 (a and b)].
Eponychium or cuticle
The cuticle of the fingernail is also called
‘eponychium’. It is located between the
skin of the finger and the nail plate, fusing
these structures together and providing a
Fig. 3.7: Parts of the nail
waterproof barrier (Fig. 3.7).
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Perionychium Notes
Perioncyhium is the skin that overlies the nail plate
on its sides. It is also known as ‘paronychial edge’.
Perionychium is the site for hang nails, ingrown nails
and infection of the skin called ‘paronychia’.
Hyponychium
Hyponychium is the area between the nail plate and
fingertip. It is the junction between the free edge of nail
and skin of the fingertip, providing a waterproof barrier.

Activity 1
Label the bones of the arm as shown in
Figure 1.
Material required: pen, pencil and eraser

Procedure

• Identify and label the bones of the arm.

• Present it before the class.
Activity 2
Label the muscles found in the human body
as shown in Figure 2.
Material required: pen, pencil and eraser
Figure 1
Procedure

• Identify and label the bones found in the human body.

• Present it before the class.

Figure 2

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 Notes Check Your Progress

A. Multiple Choice Questions

1. The nail is divided into __________ parts.
(a) four
(b) five
(c) six
(d) seven
2. Fingernails grow ___________ than toenails.
(a) faster
(b) slower
(c) more
(d) less
3. Hyponychium is the area between the __________ plate
and fingertip.
(a) Toe
(b) nail
(c) skin
(d) arm
4. The point at which two or more bones meet is called a
__________.
(a) cartilage
(b) ligament
(c) joint
(d) tendon

B. Fill in the Blanks

1. In bone __________, blood cells are produced.
2. The tissue where a muscle attaches to the bone is called
__________.
3. The tissue that connects two bones is called a __________.
4. Massage helps in improving _________ circulation and
_________ tight muscles and tendons.

What have you learnt?

After completing this Session, are you able to:

• describe the structure and functions of the bones and

muscles of arms, legs, hand and feet.
• identify the different parts of a nail.

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Session 2: Manicure
The treatment for improving the
appearance of fingernails and hands is
known as manicure, whereas, the same
treatment meant for improving the
appearance of toenails, feet and legs
is known as pedicure. In this Session,
you will learn about ‘manicure’.
Manicure is a popular service in
salons as smooth skin, well-shaped
and varnished nails are vital for a
well-groomed appearance (Fig. 3.8).
Regular beauty treatment helps prevent
minor nail damages.
Professional attention to nails and
surrounding skin encourages nail
Fig. 3.8: Manicure procedure
growth, keeps cuticles pushed back
and prevents minor skin conditions.

Preparing the work area

Preparation is the key to being a Beauty Therapist
regardless of the treatment being carried out. Many
salons have a designated work area for manicure and
pedicure. Wherever a treatment is carried out, ensure
that all material, equipment and products are handy.

Hygiene
• Clean trolleys, work surface(s) and shelves with
surgical spirit.
• Clean and disinfect the work surface(s) prior to use.
• Use clean warm towels and bedroll for each client.
• Use disposable products.
• Use a spatula to take out products from containers.
• Clean the neck of a nail enamel bottle before
putting the lid on.
• Maintain a clean and tidy work area.
• The therapist must wash the hands with soap or
hand wash before and after each treatment.
• Sterilise all tools before and after use or dispose
them of, depending on their type.

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Equipment and material used in manicure and pedicure

Emery board
It has two sides — a coarse side for filing the nails and a fine side
for shaping and bevelling the nails. Emery boards are difficult
to clean, although some manufacturers have developed special
cleansers for this purpose.

Orange stick
The two ends of an orange stick have different purposes. The
pointed side is used to apply cuticle or buffing cream. The
other side, when tipped with a cotton wool, can be used to
clean under the free edge, remove excess enamel and ease
the cuticle.

Cuticle knife
It is used to push back the cuticles and remove dead cells from
the nail area.

Cuticle nipper
It is used to remove hangnails and dead skin cells around the
cuticles.

Nail scissors
These are used to cut the nails.

Toenail clippers
These are used to cut and shorten the toenails prior to filing.

Nail buffer
It is a pad covered with chamois leather and has a handle. It is
used in conjunction with a buffing paste. Buffing adds sheen to
nails, stimulates blood circulation and growth at the matrix. It
is used in pedicure and manicure, or when nail varnish is not
applied. To clean the nail buffer, wipe it with an appropriate
cleansing solution.

3-way buffer
It is used to smoothen the nails and remove longitudinal and
horizontal lines on it, if any. Wipe the 3-way buffer between
uses with an appropriate cleansing solution.

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 Nail brush
It is used to clean the nails of clients and beauty therapists.
Wash the brush in hot soapy water or sterilise it in a chemical
solution before and after use. When using from nail-to-nail,
clean it with a steriliser. On completion of a treatment, sterilise
the brush in a cold sterilising solution.

Hoof stick
It is, usually, made of plastic but may be wooden too, having
a rubber end to push back the cuticles. It is pointed at one
end and may be tipped with cotton wool to clean under free
edge. When using from nail-to-nail, clean it with a steriliser.
On completion of the treatment, sterilise the hoof stick in a
cold sterilising solution.

Hard skin rasp or grater

It is used in pedicure after the feet have been soaked in
lukewarm water. It can be used in conjunction with a hard
skin remover. Use it on areas of hard skin in rubbing action
with light pressure. After use, wash the hard skin rasp in hot
soapy water and dispose of the waste. Now, sterilise it in a cold
chemical solution.

Pumice stone
It is a coarse stone used in pedicure to remove dead skin cells
from the soles of the feet.

Contra-indications
A contra-indication is a reason, symptom or situation
that prevents the entire or part of a treatment from
being carried out safely.
Classification of contra-indications
• Contra-indications that prevent treatment
(cannot treat)
• Contra-indications that restrict treatment
(work around)
Contra-indications that prevent treatment
Haemophilia
It is a rare bleeding disorder, in which blood does not
clot normally.

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 Notes Arthritis
It is the swelling of one or more joints in the body.
Bruised nail
It is an injury to the nail bed that causes discoloured nails.
Psoriasis of the nail
This can be described as a non-contagious disorder that
causes deep pitting of the nail bed.
Onycholysis
Trauma to the free edge of the nail that causes
separation of the nail from the bed.
Tineaunguium
It is a ringworm (fungal infection) that causes yellow
or white patches on the nail, leading to peeling of the
nail plate.
Contra-indications that may restrict treatment
There are certain contra-indications that may require a
change or modification in service due to risks but are
not necessarily a reason for stopping a treatment. These
include the following.
Onychorrhexis
It is the dryness and brittleness of the nail that causes
its vertical splitting.
Leukonychia
It can be described as an injury to the nail that causes
white spots on the nail plate.
Furrows
These are ridges in the nail caused by trauma, age,
injury or ill-health.
Beau’s lines
These are ridges across the nail caused by ill-health or
poor quality manicure.
Onychophagy
It is very little free edge and sore skin around the nail
caused by biting of the nail and its surrounding skin.

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Nail separation
• This is a condition, wherein a part of the nail
comes off or separates from the nail bed (usually,
only a part comes off and not the whole nail). In
severe cases, it changes the nail colour, turning
the nail plate dark green or black (Fig. 3.9).
• In feet, this occurs due to wearing tight shoes Fig. 3.9: Nail separation
(which cause shoe bites), poor blood circulation
and lack of foot care.
• Nails can be treated as long as there is no fungal
or bacterial infection. In case of severe separation,
no treatment must be carried out.
Ingrowing nails
This may affect either fingernails or toenails. In this
condition, the nail grows into the flesh on the sides and
may cause infection (Fig. 3.10). Excessive filing of nails Fig. 3.10: Ingrowing nail

in the corners or vigorous cutting causes this condition.

If the area is open or infection is present, nail service
must not be provided.
Split and brittle nails
• Split and brittle nails (Fig. 3.11) are, usually, the
result of using drying agents like those found in
harsh detergents, cleaners, paint strippers, etc.
Sometimes injury to the finger or diseases like
arthritis can also cause split nails.
• Manicure and pedicure increase blood circulation
in hands and legs, including nails. These help
in supplying more nutrients and oxygen to the
affected area, which aid in cell regeneration and Fig. 3.11: Brittle nails

gradual softening of tissues.

• As part of the service, one can use hydrating hot
oil or paraffin wax to hydrate the nail plate and
the surrounding skin.
Painful, red and swollen nail fold (paronychia)
This is caused due to infection in the nail fold, which
is the skin and the soft tissues that surround the nail
(Fig. 3.12).
Fig. 3.12: Painful, red and
swollen nails

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 Identification of nail conditions

Weak nails
Weak nails are soft. They get split and peel off easily.
When they break, they tear and leave a jagged edge.
This, usually, happens when a person cleans dishes or
keeps one’s hands in water for a long time. The nails
absorb the water, thereby, expanding the nail bed. When
the water dries out, the nails contract. The constant
expanding and contracting eventually weakens the nails.

Brittle nails
Brittle nails snap and are hard to bend. They tend to
crack easily. A common reason for such a condition is
the lack of moisture in nails as opposed to weak nails
that have too much moisture content.

Ridged nails
Ridged nails are characterised by the appearance of
vertical and horizontal ridges in fingernails, which are
mainly due to nutritional deficiency (Fig. 3.13). Vertical
lines on nails are common. These often get severe with
Fig. 3.13: Ridged nails —
horizontal and vertical age as nails retain more moisture with aging. Horizontal
ridges are more likely to signal a problem. Beau’s lines
is a condition characterised by indentations across
the nail bed and is a sign of disrupted nail growth due
to illness.

Overgrown cuticles
Cuticles grow at a fast pace and may cover a major
portion of the nail, making it prone to bacterial
infections, hangnails, split cuticles and other problems.

Manicure procedure
Manicure consists of various procedures, such as filing
the nails, shaping the free edges, massaging the hands
and application of nail polish. The basic processes for
manicure and pedicure are the same. Before starting a
treatment, one must:
• ensure that the equipment to be used is sterilised,
and all material and products required in the
process are organised at an accessible place.

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 • fill in the consultation form, check with a client
for contra-indications and discuss with a service
that meets the person’s needs.
• remove all jewellery of the client, including
watches, bangles and finger rings. These not only (a)
hinder the treatment process but can also cause
an injury to the client or the therapist offering the
service. Ask the client to keep these in a safe place.

Manicure steps
Step 1: During consultation, discuss the needs of (b)
the client and adapt the service to suit the person’s
conditions and expectations. Agree on the preferred
nail length and shape, and the type of nail polish
required. If the client has no contra-indication, start
the treatment.
Step 2: Request the client to choose the kind of manicure (c)

required — varnish dark, plain, frosted or French.

Recommend a suitable nail finish, which matches with
the client’s preference. Dark colours make the nails
appear shorter, so they are not suitable for short or
bitten nails.
(d)
Step 3: Remove the old nail paint first. Check the nails
for ridges and other problems. Examine the nail plate
in its natural condition after removing the nail polish.
Sanitise the hand to prevent cross-infection and do a
manual contra-indication check.
Step 4: If required, cut the nails to give them a shape (e)
as per the client’s preference. This should be done only
with sterilised scissors. The nail clippings need to be
collected in a tissue paper and disposed of appropriately.
Step 5: Now, file the nails using an emery board.
Step 6: Bevelling must be done after that. This seals
(f)
the free edge layers of the nails and helps in preventing
water loss and damage.
Step 7: Use an orange stick to decant, and then, apply
cuticle cream around the cuticles.
Step 8: Gently massage cream into the cuticles using
fingertips. This will help in softening the skin, making (g)
the removal of cuticles easier.

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 Step 9: Test the temperature of the warm water placed
in a bowl for the comfort of the client. Now, soak the
hands of the client in the water. This will help in the
absorption of the cuticle cream, resulting in softening
(h) of the skin.
Step 10: Take out one hand from the water. Dab and
dry it thoroughly using a clean unused towel.
(i) Step 11: Now, use a cuticle remover and a cotton bud
to remove the cuticles. Cuticle remover is sharp, so one
must we careful while using it. Use it sparingly and do
not apply it on the surrounding skin.
Step 12: Remove excess cuticle from the nail plate. A
(j) cuticle knife might be needed to do this. The nail plate
needs to be kept flat and damp, so that there are no
scratches on the skin. The knife must also be kept flat
to avoid the cutting of cuticles. Cuticle nippers may
be used to trim the excess cuticle. Use a tissue paper
(k)
to dispose of the waste. Bevel again. This will give a
smooth finish to the free edges of the nails.
Step 13: Select a suitable medium for massage. To
(l)
begin with, massage the hand with light effleurage
movements. Support the hand and massage right up to
the elbow.
Step 14: One must apply circular thumb frictions as the
application helps to get rid of tension in the flexors and
(m) extensors of the forearm.
Step 15: Apply circular friction techniques over the back
of the hand.
Step 16: Support the hand, and give gentle circular
(n) manipulations to each finger and the thumb. This will
reduce tension in the knuckles. Do not pull the finger
or make the circles too big as this is not only ineffective
but may also worry some clients.
(o) Step 17: Clasp the client’s fingers between your fingers.
Now, pull and twist gently down the length of the finger
to stretch the tissues.

Applying nail polish

(p)
The following procedures are adopted for applying nail
Fig. 3.14 (a–p): Manicure steps
polish (Fig. 3.15 and 3.16).
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Step 1: Base coat application
Apply the base coat starting at the cuticle. Fan out the
brush over the nail as you brush towards the tip. Always
work from the left to the right direction of the nail.
Step 2: Choose the colour
The nail polish colour must be chosen, keeping in view
the client’s preference. However, a Beauty Therapist Fig. 3.15: Choose the nail
can make suggestions regarding the nail paint colour polish colour, keeping in view
the client’s taste
to be applied.
Step 3: Prep the brush
Dip the brush into the nail polish bottle. Drag it out
while wiping it on the rim of the bottle to remove excess
paint. Without re-dipping the brush, now wipe its other
side on the opposite side of the rim, letting the excess
paint flow back into the bottle. Press firmly so that the
brush slightly fans and the coating is evenly distributed.
Continue pulling the brush out of the bottle, while
wiping the paint coat off on the rim. The objective is that Fig. 3.16: Apply the nail
as the brush is pulled out, the paint coating is pushed polish step-by-step
towards the tip on one side of the brush, resulting in a
crescent shape.
Step 4: First coat
Starting at the cuticle, apply the nail polish with the
help of the brush on to the nail. Press downwards. This
will make the brush to fan out. Now, draw the brush to
the tip of the nail while applying downward pressure,
again moving from left to right to get an even coat.
Step 5: Sealing the tips
Once the first coat is applied, go back to the leftmost part
of the nail tip and drag the brush along the edge, while
gently pressing downward. This seals the paint on the
tip of the nail and the effect of manicure will be longer.
Step 6: Top coat
Do exactly what was done, while applying the base coat.

Nail shapes
Each person’s nail features are unique. Nails vary in
shapes and sizes. One will find people with long fingers
and wide nail beds or short fingers and short nail
beds, and other combinations. The five shapes that are
common and preferred by customers are — square,
round, oval, squoval and pointed.
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 Natural Square Squoval Almond Oval Lipstick

Stiletto Mountain peak Edge Round Ballerina Wide

Fig. 3.17: Various nail shapes
Oval
Oval is an attractive nail shape and is preferred by many
women. Oval-shaped nails can be long to complement
a longer nail bed, or can be short to suit a shorter nail
bed. This shape retains the softer curves of the round
shape, while adding length to the nail at the same time.
How to file
• To achieve an oval shape, straighten the sidewalls
first and make sure they are even. This can be
done through filing.
• File in smooth, arching motions, starting at the
side of the nail moving towards the top, using a
nail file.
• Work on the angles from both the sides and
around the free edge to get the shape.
Square
Square nail is the classic acrylic shape — straight side
walls, sharp tips and a neat curve. But square nail is
not always the best choice for certain nail beds as a
sharp square shape can make the nail appear shorter
and stubbier. But for longer nail beds, square shape
can complement the nail and add length to the finger.
How to file
• To file into a classic square shape, a medium-
grade file (150 grit) should be used. This helps in
giving shape to the free edges and side walls.

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 • Turn the hand around to straighten the free edges, Notes
noting that when looking at it, the file must be
perpendicular to the nail to achieve the shape.
• File a side wall straight up, and then, change the
angle to blend.
• Repeat this on the other side as well.
• Once both the sides are done, bevel the nail and
sharpen the corners.
Squoval
Squoval, as the name suggests, is a combination of
square and oval. Sometimes, called a conservative
square, it has the length of a square nail, but softer
edges of an oval. Squoval shape suits all nail types.
How to file
• To file a squoval nail, begin with making a square,
as is the practice for all shapes.
• This ensures that the side walls are straight.
• Once the side walls are straight, tilt the file
underneath the corners. Now, file back and forth
from downward to upward direction. This will
slowly wear the corners off.
Round
The round shape is frequently used to create a softer,
less noticeable look. In case, a customer has wide nail
beds and large hands, then round nails can give a
slender look to the hands.
How to file
• To get a round shape, file the side walls straight
out to make a square.
• Now, round out the edges with moderate angles
into a curved shape.
• Be careful not to take out too much off on each
side, else it will look imbalanced.
• The nail now needs to be slightly tapered and
extend just past the tip of the finger.
Pointed
Pointed nails are less common than other shapes. A
pointed nail can create length and make the hands
look slender. Smaller hands with smaller nail beds

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 can use pointed nails to create length. If the nails have
long and slender nail beds, then pointed nails are more
noticeable.
How to file
• To achieve pointed nails, one tip to remember is
that the technique is based on the letter ‘I’ .
• The upper arch, from top to bottom, becomes the
centre of the ‘I’ shape that forms a line running
down the nail bed.
• The top of the ‘I’ is bending the cuticle flush
with the natural nail, and the bottom of the ‘I’ is
looking down the barrel of the nail to make sure
the C-curve is even.

Aftercare advice
To ensure that the effect of manicure lasts longer, follow
these guidelines.
• Give enough time to the nails to dry after manicure.
• While doing household works, such as gardening
or cleaning the dishes, wear waterproof gloves.
• Always dry the hands after washing them.
• Hand creams must be used regularly to keep the
skin soft and protected.
• Always apply base coat under the nail polish to
prevent staining.
• Apply top coat over the nail polish to prevent
chipping of the nail paint.
• Use an acetone-free nail polish remover.
• Never use metal files as these may damage the nails.
Fig. 3.18: Apply moisturiser to • Keep workable length of the nails as very long
keep the hands hydrated
nails cause problems and might get damaged.
• Use cuticle cream or oil the hands regularly to
moisturise dry cuticles (Fig. 3.18).
• Drink adequate water and eat well to maintain a
healthy skin and nail condition (Fig. 3.19).
• Do simple hand exercises to keep the joints supple
for smooth movements.
• Avoid using hard soaps and detergents for
washing hands.
• Avail manicure every 2 to 4 weeks for soft and
Fig. 3.19: Drink plenty of water
shiny hands.

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 Notes

Activity 1
Identify the different equipment and material used in manicure.
Material required: chart paper, pictures of equipment and
material used in manicure, glue stick, pen, pencil and eraser

Procedure

• Collect pictures of equipment and material used in a

manicure procedure.
• Paste them on a chart paper.
• Identify and label the pictures.
• Present it before the class.

Activity 2
Role-play on manicure.
Material required: entire manicure set-up, notebook and pen

Procedure

• Form groups of three students each and take up the

character of a Beauty Therapist, Assistant Beauty
Therapist and client.
• Now, enact a scene where the Beauty Therapist prepares
the client for a manicure.
• Identify the products and tools to carry out the service,
and seat the client.
• Act as if the Beauty Therapist is demonstrating the
various techniques used in manicure service, such as
filing, buffing, application of cuticle cream, removal of
cuticle, cuticle pushing and polishing.

Check Your Progress

A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. __________ is a rare bleeding disorder, in which blood
does not clot normally.
(a) Onycholysis (b) Tineaunguiun
(c) Leukonyhia (d) Haemophilia
2. _________ is the swelling of one or more joints in the body.
(a) Onycholysis (b) Arthritis
(c) Leukonyhia (d) Tineaunguiun
3. ____________ are ridges in the nail caused by trauma,
age, injury or ill-health.
(a) Beau’s lines (b) Bruised nails
(c) Psoriasis (d) Furrows

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 4. The main purpose of cuticle nipper is to ____________.
(a) remove hang nails and dead skin
(b) cut nails
(c) file nails
(d) removes toenails
5. Nail polish must be applied in ___________ stroke(s).
(a) one (b) two (c) three (d) five
6. ___________ is not a nail shape.
(a) oval (b) round
(c) squoval (d) cylindrical
7. Identify the nail shape.
(a) almond (b) square
(c) pointed (d) squoval

B. Fill in the Blanks

1. A ________ knife is used to push back the cuticles and
remove dead cells from the nail area.
2. A toenail clipper is used to cut and shorten the toenails
prior to ________.
3. A _________ stone is used for removing dead skin cells
from the feet.
4. Before applying the nail paint, one must check the nails
for ________ and other disorders.

What have you learnt?

After completing this Session, are you able to:

• identify the tools and material used in manicure.

• perform manicure service.

Session 3: Pedicure
Pedicure is a service aimed at improving the appearance
of the feet and toenails. Pedicure has many health
benefits, including prevention of nail diseases and
disorders, cosmetic and therapeutic benefits.
Pedicure involves working on toenails
and removing dead skin cells at the sole of
the feet using a rough stone called ‘pumice
stone’ and other implements. These days,
leg care below the knee is also included in
pedicure.
Leg care includes depilation (hair
removal) by shaving, waxing or some other
technique. This is followed by granular
Fig. 3.20: Pedicure procedure exfoliation, application of moisturising

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cream and ending the procedure with a leg massage. A Notes
monthly treatment helps keep the feet and toenails in
a healthy condition, although excessive hard skin may
need frequent pedicure sessions.
Purpose of pedicure
• To improve the appearance of feet and toenails
• To relax aching and tired feet
• To reduce hard skin at the sole of the feet
Pedicure includes
• Shaping the nails
• Cuticle treatment
• Removal of hard skin
• Specialised foot treatment
• Foot and leg massage
• Nail varnish application as required by a client
Most of the steps followed in manicure apply to
pedicure too. The major differences between the two are:
• positioning of the client
• treatment of hard skin
• treatment area
Contra-indications
Contra-indication is a condition that either prevents a
treatment or may restrict one. For example, a bruised
nail may restrict a treatment, while a bacterial or fungal
infection will prevent the treatment completely due to
the risk of cross-infection.
Contra-indications that prevent treatment
• Multiple warts
• Fungal infection(s)
• Bacterial infection(s)
Contra-indications that restrict treatment
• Bruised nail
• Cut and aberration on hand or fingers
Pedicure procedure
• Wash the hands (Fig. 3.21).
• Check with the client for contra-indications,
if any.
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 Fig. 3.21: Wash the hands Fig. 3.22: Soak both the feet in Fig. 3.23: Remove old enamel
pedi antiseptic soaking solution from the toenails and examine
them for infections

• Soak both the feet of the client in a pedi antiseptic

soaking solution (Fig. 3.22).
• Dry both the feet and rest them on a
clean towel.
• Remove old enamel from the toenails and examine
them for infections (Fig. 3.23).
• Shorten or cut the nails using clippers, if required.
The nails must be cut straight across to avoid
ingrowing nails (Fig. 3.24).
Fig. 3.24: Shorten or cut the • File the nails of each foot using an emery board
nails using clippers
(Fig. 3.25).
• Apply cuticle cream and massage the nails, and
place the foot back into the soak. Repeat the steps
on the other foot as well.
• Use a callus file or scrub or an exfoliator on hard
skin of the sole (Fig. 3.26).
Fig. 3.25: File the nails using • Dry the foot. Pay attention to the area between
an emery board
the toes.
• Apply a cuticle remover, spread around the
cuticles and gently push back and lift the cuticle
off nails (Fig. 3.27). Light pressure must be applied
to avoid damaging rest of the nail and nail plate
[Fig. 3.28 (a) and (b)].
Fig. 3.26: Exfoliate and scrub
the foot

Fig. 3.27: Use a cuticle remover (a) (b)

to remove excess cuticle Fig. 3.28 (a) and (b) : Push back, lift and clean around the
cuticle and free edges

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 Fig. 3.29: Scrub the nails Fig. 3.30: Separate the toes with Fig. 3.31: Apply base coat, nail
dividers and apply a nail paint paint and a top coat, if required

• Use a cuticle knife, dual tool or nippers, if

required. Repeat the process on the other foot
as well.
• Scrub the nails, clean, rinse and dry them
(Fig. 3.29).
• File rough edges on the nails.
• Massage the legs one-by-one.
• Squeak and clean the nail plate to ensure that all
grease is removed.
• Separate the toes with dividers or tissue papers
(Fig. 3.30).
• Choose a nail enamel colour and check its texture.
• Apply the base coat, nail enamel and top coat
(Fig. 3.30 and 3.31).
• Give home care advice to the client and suggest
the products that one may buy.
• Record details of the treatment.

Pedicure massage
Pedicure massage follows the movement of kneading,
tapping and solling (Fig. 3.32–3.36)
• Support the ankle with one hand and effleurage
(massage involving a repeated circular movement
made with the palm) six times up to the knee with
each hand separately. Cover the front, sides and
back of the lower leg.
• This must be followed by circular finger movement
kneading the knee. Kneading is a form of massage
used to treat the muscles, and reduce stiffness
and pain.
• Give palm kneading to the calf.
• Now, give circular thumb kneading to the front of
the leg from ankle to knee.
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 Fig. 3.32: Pedicure massage Fig. 3.33: Massage the leg Fig. 3.34: Massage the leg
around the knee area around the calf area
• Effleurage the knee three times.
• Do circular finger movements and knead around
the ankle.
• Knead the Achilles tendon (back of the ankle)
six times.
• Give thumb frictions to the top of the foot from
toe to ankle.

(a) (b) Fig. 3.36: Give thumb frictions

Fig. 3.35 (a and b): Massage the foot using palm kneading technique to the foot
• Also, give deep palm stroking to dorsal (top) and
plantar (bottom) aspect of the foot (together).
• Give palm kneading to toes using both the hands
at the same time.
• Palm knead the sole six times.
• Give deep thumb frictions to the sole of the foot
(sawing action) from toe to heel and back.
• Give friction circles to each toe.
Fig. 3.37: Apply moisturising • Effleurage six times from foot to knee.
lotion daily on the feet to keep • Use firm pressure on the foot to prevent
them hydrated
over-sensitivity and ticklish sensation.

Aftercare advice
To ensure that the benefits of pedicure last longer, the
customer may be advised the following.

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 • Apply moisturising lotion daily on the feet after Notes
bathing (Fig. 3.37).
• Dry the feet thoroughly after washing, especially
the area between the toes.
• Regularly apply talc or special foot powder between
the toes as it helps to absorb the moisture.
• Use creams, sprays and oils to keep the feet fresh
during the day. Those with peppermint and citrus
oils are particularly useful.
• Regularly, use a cuticle cream or oil to massage
the cuticles.
• Use non-acetone varnish remover only.
• Apply creams regularly to moisturise the nails,
especially, after removing the nail polish as most
nail polish removers contain chemicals that
dehydrate the nails.

Activity
Identify contra-indications.
Material required: notebook and pen
Procedure

• Identify nail condition (texture, diseases, etc.,) in a

volunteer’s foot.
• Identify the contra-indications that may restrict a
pedicure service.
• Make a note of your observations.

Check Your Progress

A. Multiple Choice Questions
1. Pedicure includes shaping of the nails and __________.
(a) cuticle treatment
(b) treating multiple warts
(c) treating fungal infections
(d) treating bacterial infections
2. Contra-indications that prevent treatment are __________.
(a) multiple warts
(b) fungal infections
(c) bacterial infections
(d) All of the above

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 3. An __________ is used for filing the nails.
(a) clippers
(b) emery board
(c) cuticle remover
(d) orange stick
4. ___________ is a form of massage used to treat muscles,
and reduce stiffness and pain.
(a) Curette
(b) Kneading
(c) Tapping
(d) Solling

C. Subjective Questions
1. What is an emery board?
2. When is the base coat applied on a nail?

What have you learnt?

After completing this Session, are you able to:

• describe the contra-indications that may restrict a

pedicure service.
• demonstrate the procedure of pedicure.

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