19XL

Packaged Hermetic
Centrifugal Liquid Chiller
® Stop Major
Carrier Training Service

Familiarization • Disassembly • Reassembly

This program introduces the 19XL Centrifugal Chiller with several new design features
including: impeller design, tunnel diffuser, compressor housing, factory-mounted starters and
PIC controls. In this program you will learn how to disassemble the compressor for the 19XL
Centrifugal Chiller. Topics covered are listed below in the Table of Contents.

“MANUFACTURER RESERVES THE RIGHT TO DISCONTINUE, MODIFY, OR CHANGE SPECIFICATIONS AND/OR

DESIGNS AT ANY TIME WITHOUT NOTICE OR INCURRING OBLIGATION.” Additionally, “THIS PROGRAM IS INTENDED
FOR FAMILIARIZATION AND/OR TRAINING PURPOSES ONLY AND SHOULD NOT BE CONSIDERED OR TREATED AS
COMPLETE INSTALLATION, SERVICE, OR TROUBLESHOOTING REFERENCES FOR SUBJECT OR OTHER PRODUCTS.
CURRENT PRODUCT SPECIFIC INSTALLATION AND SERVICE LITERATURE SHOULD BE CONSULTED BEFORE
ATTEMPTING THE PROCEDURES, PROCESSES, OR TECHNIQUES DESCRIBED HEREIN.”

This workbook and the material contained herein are the property of Carrier Corporation and may not be copied, reproduced, or
released without written permission of Carrier Corporation.
Catalog No. 039-289
 Contents
Familiarization
Conical Diffuser
Impeller
Controls
Compressor
Pre-Disassembly Procedures
Safety Considerations
Disassembly Procedures
Motor and Transmission
Removing Motor Assembly
Removing Transmission Assembly
Measuring Clearances
High Speed Assembly
Compressor Reassembly
Motor Assembly
 Contents
Motor End Bell
Impeller Spacing
Installing the Impeller

Located in the back of the book are the following graphics:

Tool List
Lubrication Cycle
High Speed Assembly
Motor and Compressor
Impeller Spacing
Quiz
Quiz Key
 Familiarization

Click here for Figure 1 — Model 19XL Centrifugal Liquid Chiller

1. In this program, you will learn how to disassemble the compressor for the Model 19XL
Centrifugal Liquid Chiller using refrigerant R-22. Included in this program will be:
• Familiarization
• Safety considerations
• Pre-Disassembly procedures
• Tools needed
• Disassembly procedures
• Inspecting the internal parts
• Recording clearances
• and Reassembly
The information will follow the procedures outlined in the Task Handbook. This program will
cover a 19XL Series Stop Major.
This program will not cover installation, start-up and operation because this chiller is very similar
to other 19 Series machines. If you need more information, refer to the Installation, Start-up and
Service Instructions for the 19XL which is the model designation of this machine.
This centrifugal chiller will be introduced with a single-frame size of 300 to 500 tons.
 Click here for Figure 2 — The 19XL Heat Exchanger

2. This 19XL Heat Exchanger is made for ease of service. Overall, the 19XL machine is
designed for the replacement or retrofit market. It can be broken down into three pieces; cooler,
condenser, and compressor. The cooler and condenser are bolted together and can be
separated to fit into tight places.
The cooler and condenser are equipped with feet that can be rotated and used to support the
units when they're separated. A heavy steel bar is mounted on the motor end cover. It is used to
protect the motor and starter when rigging with a three-point hitch. This bar can be removed
after the chiller is installed; but be careful because it weighs 60 pounds.

Click here for Figure 3 — Compressor

3. The compressor is mounted on the cooler section and has lifting lugs for rigging, one on the
motor and one on the compressor base. It also can be removed to make rigging into small
spaces easier.
Gasketted flanges and "O" rings make disassembly and reassembly easy, eliminating any
cutting and welding.
 Click here for Figure 4 — Compressor (Flanged Elbows)

4. The compressor has flanged elbows on both the suction and discharge for easy servicing.
The 19XL is equipped with isolation valves; one valve between the condenser and the
discharge elbow and another valve under the cooler.
These valves are used to isolate the refrigerant charge for service work. You can close the
valve located at the discharge elbow and the refrigerant cooling isolation valve.

Click here for Figure 5 — Liquid Transfer

5. Then push the liquid refrigerant out of the cooler and into the condenser using the optional
pumpout unit. When all the liquid refrigerant is transferred, the isolation valve under the cooler
is closed, and the pumpout unit is used to evacuate the gas from the cooler and compressor. To
speed up the transfer use the PIC controls. Go to the controls test function and use the
pumpout feature. This starts the condenser water pump and the cooler pump. It also directs you
through the entire pumpdown process and locks out the low pressure alarm and the
compressor from being started. Run the pumpout unit until it reaches 22 inches mercury. Use
the PIC display and the gauges to monitor the pressures. It is also possible to use the pumpout
unit to transfer the charge into the cooler/compressor to service the condenser.
 Click here for Figure 6 — 19XL High Side Float

6. A high side float is used for refrigerant control. It is similar to a 19FA style refrigerant float
that uncovers an orifice to maintain the proper liquid level. This is also flanged for easy service.

Click here for Figure 7 — Hot Gas By-Pass Option

7. An optional hot gas bypass is located on the bottom of the cooler. Hot condenser gas enters
the cooler through a solenoid valve which is piped up into the condenser. This valve is
controlled by the temperature difference or ∆T between the entering and leaving chilled water
and the pressure differential between the cooler and condenser.

Click here for Figure 8 — 19XL Relief Valves

8. Each vessel, cooler and condenser, has two ASME-approved relief valves, so that the
refrigerant may be safely isolated in either side of the machine. A pressure gauge is mounted
on the condenser along side the relief valves.
The cooler and condenser are available in 2 or 3 pass configurations. Inside the heat
exchangers, the tubes are supported by two tube sheets and three support sheets.
The standard cooler tubes are high efficiency type with external nucleate boiling surface. The
internal surface is spiral fin for maximum heat transfer. Standard condenser tubes are 43 fin,
also with internal rifling.
The condenser has a baffle plate located under the compressor discharge ell to distribute the
refrigerant over the condenser tubes. Remember, with R-22 we only have to move 20% as
much refrigerant vapor CFM to get the same refrigerant effect as R-11. It also has a flash
subcooler, similar to the 19DK machine, which subcools the refrigerant prior to entering the float
chamber.
Diffuser

Click here for Figure 9 — Diffuser

9. Next is the conical diffuser. The technology for this diffuser was derived from aerospace
technology used on Pratt & Whitney's jet aircraft engines. This diffuser is designed for high
efficiency and to operate in a very stable manner over a wide range of conditions. This diffuser
has built in surge protection and practically eliminates any need for a moveable diffuser wall or
hot gas bypass.
Notice this area on the diffuser wall. This is machined into a scalloped shape with a shallow
angle. The refrigerant leaving the impeller is channeled through this scalloped shape into the
conical diffuser. The refrigerant then follows Bernoulli's basic law of physics where the
refrigerant enters the conical channel at high velocity, low static and leaves at low velocity, high
static. Just the right conditions for a centrifugal chiller.
Impeller

Click here for Figure 10 — 19XL Impeller

10. Now let's look at the impeller. This is an entirely new design. The 19XL machine uses a
single aluminum impeller. It is an open type impeller and the running speed is 16,000 RPM.
Notice how the fins sweep back to increase stability and raise efficiency. And, notice the splitter
blades; they make for more efficient compression with less chance of surge. The impeller is
locked in place with a nose piece and a hex-head cap screw with a thread locking compound.
The impeller nose piece has a six-sided section for holding it while the cap screw is being
tightened. The nose piece is not threaded and no attempt should be made to turn it. Two roll
pins extend from the nose piece into the impeller shaft keyways.
The impeller is keyed to the high speed shaft with two keys which greatly reduces the force a
single key would see. It must be heated to be installed.

Click here for Figure 11 — 19XL Impeller (Drilled Holes)

11. There are four drilled holes through the impeller that are used to reduce thrust. These
venting holes equalize the pressure on both sides of the impeller. Located in the back of the
impeller is a Labyrinth seal. This is used to counteract the thrust with suction pressure.
Controls

Click here for Figure 12 — 19XL Controls

12. As for controls, the 19XL machine is equipped with a product integrated control or a PIC
and will interface with the Carrier Comfort Network. Notice there are two boxes on this side of
the machine. On the back side, on the condenser, is a mounting for an optional starter, either
electromechanical or solid state.

Click here for Figure 13 — 19XL Power Panel

13. The box in front of the oil pump is called the Power Panel. Part of the circuitry is high
voltage and contains contactors for the oil pump and oil heater. Also in the Power Panel are
step-down transformers to supply the low voltage needed for the PIC control box.

Click here for Figure 14 — 19XL PIC Control Center

14. Here's the PIC control center. On the front we have a stop button, an alarm light, a video
monitor and four function switches or softkeys.
Inside the box we find a processor module known as the PSIO (Processor Sensor Input
Output). There's room enough to add four optional modules for future requirements. To the left
is a relay module. This entire box is low voltage and gets its power from the Power Panel.
These controls have built-in diagnostics.
The video monitor displays information both while the machine is running and during shutdown.
Near the top, there are two system messages displaying the operation mode. To the top right is
the time and date display and the compressor run time indicator. Under that we have nine
blocks of information which concern:
• Entering chilled water temperature
• Leaving chilled water temperature
• Evaporator refrigerant temperature
• Condenser water inlet temperature
• Condenser water leaving temperature
• Condenser refrigerant temperature
• Oil pressure
• Oil sump temperature
• Motor current
Below, on the monitor, we find a display for each of the four softkeys. As we use these menu
functions, the nomenclatures and function of these four keys will change.
Sensors feed information to the PIC controls. These sensors are new and have a quick release
plug at the sensor for easy servicing.
There's one in the oil sump to monitor sump temperature, and also to control the oil heater.
There is one dual-element bearing sensor (one element is a spare). The terminal plate for the
high speed bearing sensor is located on the compressor base near the oil pump.
There are two sensors for motor temperature embedded in the stator windings (one is a spare).
The motor sensor terminal plate is located on the side of the stator near the motor terminal box.

Click here for Figure 15 — 19XL Sensors (Compressor Discharge)

15. There are two sensors in the compressor discharge. One is a pressure switch that opens on
high pressure. The other measures discharge gas temperature.

Click here for Figure 16 — 19XL Sensors

16. Sensors measure both entering and leaving chilled water. The condenser water circuit also
has sensors on both the entering and leaving water connections.
A temperature switch is embedded in the oil pump motor winding. It's terminals are on the oil
pump motor terminal plate. To measure oil pressure, there's a transducer in the oil pump
discharge. There's a transducer on top of the evaporator to measure evaporator refrigerant
pressure. There is another transducer on top of the condenser measuring pressure there. The
combination of all these thermostats and transducers relay information to the PIC controls.
This unit is available with one of two factory-mounted optional starters. One option is a
electromechanical style. The controls on this starter include a Starter Management Module or
SMM to communicate with the PSIO in the PIC control box. The control panel is hinged and
swings out of the way to service the starter contacts.

Click here for Figure 17 — Solid State Starter

17. The second starter is solid state. The solid state starter is new to Carrier centrifugals. This
starter is optional and may or may not be on your machine. This starter also uses a Starter
Management Module, or SMM, to communicate with the PSIO in the PIC control box.
Amperage, voltage and operating information are relayed between the PSIO and the SMM. This
operating information can be displayed on the video monitor by pushing the status function
softkey. This will display three status screen tables: select status 01 to view sensors and control
settings; select status 02 to view contacts and relay status; select status 03 to view the optional
8 input modules.
Compressor

Click here for Figure 18 — Compressor

18. The 19XL compressor is a new design which utilizes the best of older designs and new
technology. The suction guide vanes, used to control capacity, are chain driven, using a vane
actuator motor.

Click here for Figure 19 — Motor Cooling

19. Motor cooling is accomplished by piping liquid refrigerant from the bottom of the condenser
through a valve and a filter-dryer to the motor end bell. Notice the dry-eye on this line. To control
the motor cooling process, there is a bypass line with a solenoid valve which will open to allow
extra refrigerant into the motor during high load conditions. From there the refrigerant travels to
a spray nozzle and is sprayed into the rotor and stator where it flashes and cools the motor.
The refrigerant level is maintained in the motor shell and overflows through a drain on the side
of the motor shell to a back pressure valve located at the flanged drain connection. This back
pressure valve is a spring check type and maintains a 5 to 7 lb. differential between the motor
cavity and the cooler.
 Click here for Figure 20 — Oil Recovery System

20. To recover oil an eductor system is used which is similar to the one used on the 19D Series
machines.
High pressure gas piped from the compressor discharge is directed across an eductor. This
creates a low pressure area at the eductor which, in turn, is connected to the suction housing.
Oil is normally carried with the refrigerant into the suction housing. However, an additional line
from the cooler to the suction housing ensures that oil travels into the housing. The refrigerant
and oil are then transferred through a line and filter into the oil reservoir. The refrigerant flashes
to a gas and returns to the system through the demister and vent line located between the
transmission housing and suction elbow. This keeps the transmission at suction pressure. The
vent at the transmission housing uses a demister pad similar to the 19D Series. The oil drops
into the oil reservoir.
A check valve prevents the oil from flowing backward during shutdown.
During light load conditions, the guide vane actuator closes a switch which energizes two
solenoids. Because of the low suction pressure, the eductor will now take suction directly from
the cooler shell in order to return the oil.
 Click here for Figure 21 — Oil Pump

21. Notice how the oil pump is located in the transmission housing -- not directly under the
motor, but offset to one side.
The oil pump motor is 3 PHASE and the pump is a positive displacement vane type. The 19XL
machine has a 10 gallon oil capacity and uses a new synthetic oil.
The oil cooler is located outside of the oil pump housing and uses liquid refrigerant to cool the
oil.
A thermostatic expansion valve controls the refrigerant flow and maintains the oil temperature.
The compressor housing is both the oil reservoir and sump. There are two sight glasses for the
oil, and the operating oil level should be maintained between the two. The shutdown level
should be somewhere between the top of the bottom glass and the middle of the upper glass.
Typical oil pressure is 20 to 25 lbs differential pressure.

Click here for Figure 22 — Lubrication System

22. Pressurized oil is supplied to compressor bearings and gears by an integrally mounted,
electric motor driven, vane type pump, which is submerged in the oil reservoir.
Oil from the pump discharge passes through the oil pump motor and serves as a coolant. Oil
pressure is regulated by a relief valve that is located internally. The valve relieves the pump
discharge back into the oil sump, maintaining proper oil system pressure. Pressurized oil then
passes from the pump motor housing and into the filter chamber via some external piping. After
being filtered, the oil is piped to the external oil cooler. Notice the valving on the oil filter. These
two valves enable the service technician to isolate the oil filter and change it without draining the
entire oil sump or having to pull the refrigerant charge. A charging valve is located on the filter
housing to drain the oil in the filter chamber and also to evacuate and recharge new oil.
The pressurized oil flows to the transmission assembly where it feeds two lines. The lower line
supplies oil to the high speed thrust bearing assembly and lubricates the gears. The upper line
supplies the low speed shaft bearings. From there the oil is channeled to the high speed shaft
bearing nearest the pinion. The oil then drains to a sump at the base of the compressor
housing.

Click here for Figure 23 — Oil Heater

23. The oil heater is a new design with 1200 Watts. The oil heater has a flanged terminal plate
with a flat washer-type gasket. The oil heater is controlled by a thermistor with its sensor
immersed in the oil sump. The oil temperature in the sump is maintained between 140 and
160°F depending upon what the evaporator refrigerant temperature is.
 Pre-Disassembly Procedures

Click here for Figure 24 — Disassembling the Compressor

24. In this section of the training program, you will learn how to disassemble the compressor for
the 19XL Centrifugal Machine.
Before starting, make sure you have all the necessary safety gear, including proper safety
glasses and gloves. Be sure that all your tools and equipment are sturdy and in good working
order. And, for safety's sake, always lock and tag all disconnects.
If you have questions about safety procedures, read the Carrier Safety Guide before working on
a centrifugal machine.
Some of the tools needed are:
• a Gantry, or adequate rigging
• 1 ton chain fall
• depth micrometer
• outside micrometers - up to 5"
• telescope gauge
• straight edge
Some additional tools are listed in the Tool List at the back of this book.
Store all the bolts and parts in plastic storage bags and identify the contents of each bag.
Store all the parts in a dry, clean area, and keep them orderly so that the parts will not be lost
and reassembly may be completed more rapidly and accurately.
Let's start by covering (pre-disassembly) procedures. Use the R-22 machine's pressure to leak
test the entire unit. Look for unusual leaks that can be repaired while the compressor is being
overhauled. After tagging all leaks, proceed to transfer the refrigerant.
Next, isolate the chilled and condenser water circuits by closing the valves. Be sure the main
disconnect to the compressor motor and the control panel is locked open and tagged.
Opening the main disconnect will isolate the oil heater.
With the refrigerant transferred and the power off, drain the compressor oil.
It's important to leave 1 to 2 PSI positive cooler-compressor pressure. Do this by first
evacuating the section, then adding dry nitrogen. Then break the refrigerant and tubing
connections. This is to prevent excessive refrigerant loss, and to prevent excessive moisture
from the air entering the machine.
And remember, while the unit is open, keep the refrigerant side as clean and dry as possible.
Do this by taping all openings closed with plastic sheeting to prevent foreign materials from
entering the machine.
Also, oil down all compressor parts to prevent rusting.
Before we disassemble the motor and compressor, let's look at the design.
The 19XL machine is designed for service. There should be no need to rig or slide the
compressor base. Everything that needs to be serviced can be reached easily. The motor stator
and transmission assembly can be rigged off the back of the compressor base.
On the suction end, the suction ell is flanged and can be removed. This gives access to the
suction housing. Behind the suction housing are guide vanes, inlet venturi, impeller and the
conical diffuser.
Let's work on the actual machine and concentrate on the compressor end. We'll first cover the
things which must be done before you service the compressor. First disconnect the items which
attach the compressor to the rest of the machine.
Remove the motor terminal box. Identify and disconnect the main power leads at the starter and
pull them out of the starter toward the motor.
Now disconnect the items which connect the motor to the rest of the machine.
Disconnect all control wiring. Identify and tag all wires.
Disconnect the wiring at the vane actuator motor.
 Click here for Figure 25 — Disconnecting the Oil Reclaim Lines

25. Disconnect the oil reclaim lines at the suction housing.

Disconnect the motor cooling drain line at the flange.
Remove the insulation and use a wrench to loosen the refrigerant motor cooling line flare nut.
Then cut the line near the motor cooling solenoid.
 Disassembly Procedures

Click here for Figure 26 — Removing the Suction Ell

26. If you've disassembled a 19 Series machine before, you may know there are a few other
things which must be removed in addition to the preceding operations.
Next remove the suction ell.
Unbolt the demister vent line flange bolts at the compressor base.
Remove the insulation material from the suction ell.
Set up the rigging on the suction ell and remove the flange bolts. Back them up with an end
wrench.
Rig the suction ell to the floor and remove from the work area.

Click here for Figure 27 — Removing the Suction Housing Bolts

27. Set up your rigging on the suction housing lifting lug and put tension on the chains.
Remove the suction housing bolts.
Separate the suction housing from the compressor housing. Notice the strainer for the eductor
system. Use the rigging to lower the housing to the floor.

Click here for Figure 28 — Inspecting Vanes, Pulleys, and Cable

28. Notice that the vane assembly is bolted into the housing. Inspect the vanes, pulleys and
cable for wear or damage.

Click here for Figure 29 — Disassembling the Shroud

29. Put an index mark on the shroud to make reassembly easier.

Unbolt the impeller shroud from the conical diffuser. Use jacking bolts to back the shroud out of
the conical diffuser.
Lift the shroud out of the diffuser being careful not to damage the impeller.

Click here for Figure 30 — Nose Cone Thrust Reading

30. This would be a good time to take a nose cone thrust reading. Compare this reading with
the actual thrust reading that we will measure later in this program.
 Click here for Figure 31 — Removing the Impeller

31. Now we will remove the impeller. The impeller hold-down bolt has right hand threads, and
must be turned counter clockwise to be removed.
The impeller nose piece has a six-sided section for holding it while the cap screw is being
removed. Use a end wrench to hold it. The nose piece is not threaded and no attempt should be
made to turn it.
Two roll pins extend from the nose piece into the impeller shaft keyways.
Index the impeller to the shaft using a felt tip pen.

Click here for Figure 32 — Installing the Impeller Wheel Puller

32. Install an impeller wheel puller. The impeller has threaded holes to accept the puller. The
impeller is installed with a shrink fit approximately 1/2" long, from the base end of the bore.
Adjust the puller so it fits snug against the high-speed shaft.
Slowly apply pressure to the puller until the impeller is removed.
Remove the impeller from the work area and set it on wood to prevent damage. Clean and
inspect it for damage or cracks.
 Click here for Figure 33 — Removing the Impeller Keys

33. Next remove the impeller keys. Each of the two impeller keys should be indexed so that
they can be reinstalled in their original position. Be sure these marks are distinguishable from
each other. Remove the keys.
Remove the impeller shim. Using a micrometer, measure and record its thickness.
Remove the impeller spacer. Tape both the shims and spacer together.

Click here for Figure 34 — Snap Ring

34. Notice this special snap ring that locks the high-speed shaft into the hi-speed bearing
assembly. Notice the labyrinth seal that lines up with the back of the impeller.
Remove the cap screws that secure both the laby seal and the hi-speed bearing.
Mark the top of the seal because it can only be installed one way.
Be careful. The "O" ring which seals the high speed labyrinth from the thrust housing may tear.
To prevent this, loosen the labyrinth so the "O" ring is loose within its groove, and will not have
the tendency to tear against the compressor base.
 Click here for Figure 35 — Removing the Laby Seal

35. Pull the laby seal straight out being careful not to damage the laby teeth. Notice the inner
laby teeth that seal the high speed laby slinger. Also notice the "O" ring that seals the hi-speed
bearing and laby. Remove this "O" ring.
Now you have an option. You can pull both the hi-speed bearing and shaft out together from
this end, or you can leave them in place and rig them out with the motor rotor and transmission
case. To leave them in place, we would replace the bearing bolts so the bearing is secured to
the transmission case and is not damaged when rigging. For this program, we will go with the
first option and pull the high-speed shaft out this end.
Screw bolts into the threaded jacking holes in the bearing. Use the bolts and the high-speed
shaft to carefully work the assembly out.
Notice the small "O" ring that seals the laby gas passage.
Once out, move it to a bench where it can be disassembled further.

Click here for Figure 36 — Kingsbury-type Thrust with Tilting Pads

36. Notice that this is a Kingsbury-type thrust with tilting pads. Looking at the assembly, we see
a bearing surface for the transmission end; an area with gear teeth that mesh with the bull
gear... then the thrust assembly. The thrust generated by the gears is used to offset the
aerodynamic thrust of the impeller.
The machined surface on the high speed shaft makes contact with the thrust surface.
Oil for the bearing is pumped in from the top and supplies both the journal and thrust. The
journal surface has oil grooves. Inspect all these surfaces for wear or damage.

Click here for Figure 37— Removing the Conical Diffuser

37. Next is the conical diffuser. Bolts for the diffuser are recessed into the housing and will
require a socket extension to reach them.
Notice that the conical diffuser is marked TOP for easy reassembly.
Remove the bolts and screw in guide bolts. Then use bolts in the jacking holes to push the
diffuser out.
Get help to support the diffuser so it doesn't damage anything. Note the condition of the three
"O" rings -- one on the outer edge, and two in the compressor housing. Lower the diffuser to the
floor
 Click here for Figure 38 — Silencer

38. We want to bring your attention to the silencer. The silencer is made up of 4 pieces and is
held in place with pins, a ring and springs. If the silencer is damaged or needs service, now is
the time to do the work.
Motor and Transmission

Click here for Figure 39 — Inspecting the Motor and Transmission Assemblies

39. Now, to inspect the motor and transmission assemblies. Start by removing the motor end
bell. Move the rigging into place for this procedure.
There is one copper refrigerant cooling line connected to the end bell. Remove the line now, if it
is still in place.
The motor end bell has both threaded jacking bolt holes and regular bolt holes for threaded bar
stock. Attach a lifting eye bolt and set up the rigging. Screw the threaded bar stock into these
holes. The bar stock is used to guide the end bell straight out. Remove all the bolts from the end
bell and use the jacking bolts to separate the end bell from the motor.
The end bell must be pulled straight back about one foot for the spray nozzle to clear. Remove
the end bell from the work area.
Removing Motor Assembly

Click here for Figure 40 — Removing the Motor Assembly

40. Next, remove the motor stator assembly. Use the motor lifting lug and set up sufficient
rigging to support the motor shell and stator. Index the stator to make reassembly easier.
Disconnect the motor temperature sensors and the main motor leads if you haven't done so
already.
Remove the motor shell bolts and screw in the jacking bolts and guide bolts. Tighten the jacking
bolts to separate the stator shell from the transmission housing.
The motor shell can now be removed by guiding it straight back until the rotor shaft is cleared.
Be careful not to damage the motor windings, then lower the stator to the floor.
Rig the motor so it is supported on the floor. Use wood blocks to prevent damage. Set up a 100
watt light bulb inside the stator and cover the open ends to help keep the motor dry during the
overhaul.
Removing Transmission Assembly

Click here for Figure 41 — Removing the Transmission Assembly

41. Before the transmission assembly can be removed, the bearing sensors must be
disconnected.
Remove the cover from the terminal box. Then remove the bolts that secure the terminal plate.
Pull the terminal plate out far enough to identify and remove the sensor wires.
Disconnect the oil supply lines. You do not have to cut the oil lines. Just undo the flare
connections.

Click here for Figure 42 — Dial Indicator

42. Now to check the thrust clearance, set up a dial indicator. Position the button so it is in
contact with a flat surface on the end of the rotor shaft. Push the rotor in and zero the dial
indicator, then pull the rotor out. The movement on the indicator will be the thrust clearance. Be
sure the shaft is moved fully in each direction, thrust and counter thrust.
Check the Operation and Maintenance instructions for the correct thrust clearance. If the
clearance is not within tolerance, the bearings may have to be replaced.
Next remove the transmission assembly.
 Click here for Figure 43 — Rigging the Transmission Assembly

43. Screw an eye bolt into the transmission case mounting flange. Set up the rigging and put
tension on the rigging.
Another option for rigging is to use a nylon sling between the motor and transmission case. Also
the end of the rotor shaft has a threaded hole that can be used for rigging.
Remove the socket head cap screws that secure the transmission to the compressor housing.
Then use bolts in the jacking holes to separate the sections. Raise up on the rigging so the
transmission will clear the housing. It may be necessary to use a come-a-long to keep the
transmission level. Slide the transmission outward until it is free of the compressor housing and
can be lowered onto the floor, out of the way.
We find the demister assembly located inside the compressor housing. Unbolt the demister and
check the condition of the foam pad. The demister bolts use thread locking compound.

Click here for Figure 44 — Hi-Speed Bearing

44. Place the rotor-transmission on a working area with supports to keep it horizontal.
Let's pause and look at the components we have disassembled. A shroud covers the bull gear.
This is used to prevent excessive oil foaming at start-up. The transmission uses a single helical
bull gear to drive the high speed shaft. The bull gear is secured on the rotor with a hex head bolt
and thread locking compound.
A laby pressurization line is used to provide gas at motor pressure to the laby to reduce oil loss.
By taking the sealing gas from a relatively low pressure area, just slightly above transmission
pressure, oil leakage is prevented, while very little compressed gas is wasted.
Located in the bottom of the housing is the hi-speed bearing. This bearing is secured with Allen
head cap screws.

Click here for Figure 45 — Indexing the Laby Seal

45. Now index the laby seal to the transmission case. Unbolt the laby seal and remove the two
halves.

Click here for Figure 46 — Inspecting the Laby and Seal Ring

46. Inspect the laby and laby teeth. Inspect the seal ring.
Now let's disassemble these parts. First unbolt and remove the gear shroud that covers the bull
gear. Notice the bull gear oil wiper. Lift the shroud off.
 Click here for Figure 47 — Removing the Self-Locking Bolt

47. Remove the self-locking bolt that secures the bull gear on the rotor shaft.
Use the tapped holes in the bull gear to attach a puller. The bull gear does not need to be
heated to be removed. Overheating this gear could cause the heat-treating process to fail.
Remove the bull gear from the work area and set it on wood to prevent damage.

Click here for Figure 48 — The Bull Gear

48. The bull gear has a machined surface that contacts the compressor bearing providing a
counter thrust.
Next, remove the square keys, identify and store them away from the work area.

Click here for Figure 49 — Setting Up Rigging on the Rotor

49. Set up rigging on the rotor. Use a sling and the rigging bolt to support it. Move the rotor shaft
out of the transmission case bearings. Be careful not to damage the shaft or bearings. Keep the
parts aligned straight to prevent binding.
 Click here for Figure 50 — Inspecting the Bearing and Thrust Surfaces

50. Once out, set the rotor on supports to protect it. Inspect the bearing and thrust surfaces for
wear or damage.
There's a thrust collar on the rotor shaft that contacts the babbitted surface of the drive end
bearing.

Click here for Figure 51 — Bearings

51. There are two bearings that support the rotor and bull gear.
Notice the bearings have tapped jacking bolt holes to make bearing replacement easier. Also,
the drive end bearing is notched on the bottom.
Measuring Clearances

Click here for Figure 52 — Measuring the Rotor Bearing

52. Next, you should check and record all the clearances for this compressor.
To measure the rotor bearing, first use the micrometer to measure the outside diameter rotor
journal.

Click here for Figure 53 — Measuring the Drive End Bearing

53. Then, use a telescope gauge to measure the inside diameter of the drive end bearing. Use
the telescope gauge, then remove it, and measure it with the micrometer. Make several
measurements 90 degrees apart, and get an average measurement.
To get the clearance, subtract the journal from the bearing measurement. Compare this reading
with the clearance table in the Operation and Maintenance manual.
Repeat this procedure for the compressor end bearing.
 Click here for Figure 54 — Measuring the High-Speed Bearing and Shaft

54. Next, we'll measure the high-speed bearing and shaft. Use a telescope gauge to measure
the inside diameter of the high-speed bearing; then remove it and measure it with a micrometer.

Click here for Figure 55 — Measuring the High-Speed Shaft Journal

55. Then measure the high-speed shaft journal with the micrometer. To get the clearance,
subtract the journal from the bearing measurement.
High Speed Assembly

Click here for Figure 56 — Checking the High Speed Assembly

56. Next, check the high speed assembly. Disassemble the high speed assembly. The special
snap ring that locks the slinger and bearing to the shaft is an interlocking two-piece assembly.
The high speed of the 19XL machine requires this type of snap ring be used. To release it, find
the outer ring, put a screw driver blade in the slot and pry it off. Once the snap ring is off,
remove the slinger. Notice the counter-thrust area on the journal bearing that makes contact
with the slinger.

Click here for Figure 57 — Checking the High Speed Assembly (Continued)

57. Now turn the assembly over and match mark the parts, then remove the cap screws. With
the cap screws removed, lift off the retaining ring.
Under the retaining ring is a seal ring; remove it. Next is a spacer ring. To remove the high
speed shaft lift it straight up.
 Click here for Figure 58 — Thrust Shoes, Leveling Pads and Adjustment Pads

58. Now remove the thrust shoes, leveling pads, and adjustment pads.
Inspect the thrust shoes and high speed shaft, looking for wear or damage.

Click here for Figure 59 — Measuring the High Speed Main Journal Bearing
Clearance
59. We also recommend measuring the high speed main journal bearing clearance using a
telescope gauge and a micrometer. Measure the bearing with the telescope gauge. Measure at
three points midway between the grooves, and record the measurement, then measure the high
speed shaft using the micrometer. If the journal shows signs of wear, or is questionable, the
high speed assembly must be replaced.

Click here for Figure 60 — Checking the Thrust Clearance of the High Speed
Assembly

60. To check the thrust clearance of the high speed assembly, all the components -- thrust
shoes, leveling pads, adjustment pads, slinger, and special snap ring -- must be in place.
Next, put the impeller spacer on the high speed assembly.
When checking the thrust clearance on a bench, a clamping fixture must be used. There are
different sizes for the different machine models. The clamping fixture is used to simulate the
impeller and take up any slack. Measuring the thrust without the fixture will cause a false thrust
clearance reading. Install the clamping fixture and lock it in place with a bolt.
Now set up a dial indicator on the high speed assembly. Attach the dial indicator so the button is
in contact with the center of the clamping fixture bolt. Set the dial indicator at zero.
Hold the bearing assembly and move the high speed shaft up and down. The movement on the
indicator will be the thrust clearance. Be sure the shaft is moved fully in each direction, thrust
and counter thrust.
Check the Operation and Maintenance Instructions for the correct thrust clearance. If the
clearance is not correct, it must be adjusted.
 Sample Thrust Adjustment Problem

Example 1:
If Measured Thrust Bearing Clearance Is Greater Than .014:
Step 1:
• Actual thrust clearance .016"
Step 2:
• Actual thrust clearance .016"
• Less desired thrust clearance -.011”
• Difference between desired and actual thrust clearance .005"
Steps 3 & 4:
• Disassemble the bearing and remove adjusting pads
Step 5:
• Pad Thickness .110”
• Pad Thickness .112”
 • Pad Thickness .114”
• Pad Thickness .111”
• Pad Thickness .113”
• Pad Thickness .112”
• Total thickness .672"

Step 6:
• Total thickness 672"
• Divided by six pads ÷ 6
• Average pad thickness .112”

Step 7:
• Average thickness per pad plus difference between desired .112”
and actual thrust bearing clearance +.005"
• New average adjusting pad thickness .117"
required to give overall thrust clearance of .011"

Step 8:
• Select pads from kit
Answer:
• Four pads @.120" .480"
• Two pads @.110" .220"
• Total .700"

Average thickness per pad with this combination is .11666" (.700 ÷ 6 =.11666) and desired
thickness from Step 7 is .117".
Steel or stainless steel shim stock can be added under the original shims to increase the
thickness of each pad to the desired thickness determined in Step 7.

Example 2:
If Measured Thrust Bearing Clearance Is Less Than .008:
Step 1:
• Actual thrust clearance .006"

Step 2:
• Desired thrust clearance .011"
• Less actual thrust clearance -.006"
• Difference between desired
and actual thrust clearance .005"
Steps 3 & 4:
• Disassemble the bearing and remove adjusting pads
Step 5:
• Pad Thickness .112"
• Pad Thickness .115"
• Pad Thickness .102"
• Pad Thickness .108"
• Pad Thickness .105"
• Pad Thickness .106"
• Total thickness .648"

Step 6:
• Total thickness .648"
• Divided by six pads ÷ 6
• Average pad thickness .108"

Step 7:
• Average thickness per pad .108"
• Less difference between desired
and actual thrust bearing clearance -.005"
 • New average adjusting pad thickness
required to give overall thrust clearance of .011" .103"

Step 8:
• Select pads from kit

Answer:
• Four pads @.100" .400"
• Two pads @.110" .220"
Total = .620"
Average pad thickness per pad with this combination is .10333"... (.620 ÷ 6 = .10333) and
desired thickness from Step 7 is .103".
 Compressor Reassembly

Click here for Figure 61 — Reassembling the Compressor

61. In this module, we'll cover compressor reassembly, including spacing the impeller.
First, all parts must be thoroughly cleaned and inspected for wear. Matching faces must be
perfectly clean and new "O" rings should be used.
Clean all "O" ring grooves and mating surfaces and carefully look for irregularities in the
surfaces. Then, clean everything with solvent.
To reassemble the transmission, first clean and blow out all oil channels and lines.
Wipe a light film of oil on the bearing and rotor journal surfaces including the hi-speed bearing
surfaces.
Rig the rotor using a sling and the rigging bolt.
Make sure the seal ring is on the shaft before inserting it into the transmission case.
Align the rotor and transmission case. Be careful to keep the parts straight and not bind or force
them.
Now bolt the motor shaft labyrinth into place. The notch on the seal ring is placed at 12 o'clock.
The labyrinth seal will hold the rotor in place. Assemble the laby halves and start the bolts.
Tighten to the proper torque.
With the rotor in place, replace the bull gear. This gear should be heated in an oven or oil bath
to 200°F. Do not use a torch, the uneven heating will damage the heat treatment of the gear!
Replace the square keys. With both square keys in place, use heat resistant gloves and push
the gear onto the motor shaft. Use the bolt to draw the bull gear into place.
After the bull gear cools down, remove the bolt. Apply a thread locking compound to the bolt
and put it back in. Tighten to the proper torque.
Next, check the gear wear and tooth contact pattern.
Bolt the high speed assembly into the transmission housing using the high speed laby to lock it
in place.
Rotate the gears several times. Inspect the gears. Look for wear, broken teeth or cracks.
Remove the high speed assembly and continue.

Click here for Figure 62 — Replacing the Bull Gear Shroud

62. Now replace the bull gear shroud. Bolt the bull gear shroud into place. Use thread locking
compound on the bolts. Replace the oil wiper. Check the clearance of the wiper. It should
be.020 to.030.
Replace the laby pressurization line. Tighten the flare nuts.
Attach a string or piece of wire to the bearing sensor wires. This will be used to guide the wires
to the bearing terminal plate.
Use a new "O" ring in the transmission housing. Grease the "O" ring with silicone grease. Put
the "O" ring into the groove.

Click here for Figure 63 — Rigging the Transmission Case

63. Rig the transmission case and move the assembly to the compressor housing. Stop when
the transmission case is about one foot away from the compressor housing. Feed the string
attached to bearing sensor wires to the terminal plate hole. Carefully work the transmission
case into the compressor housing. Start the two cap screws and draw the transmission case
into place. Tighten the bolts evenly. Use a torque wrench.

Click here for Figure 64 — Dial Indicator

64. Now, set up a dial indicator to check the thrust clearance. Position the button so it is in
contact with a flat surface on the end of the rotor. Push the rotor in and zero the dial indicator,
then pull the rotor out. The movement on the indicator will be the thrust clearance. Be sure the
shaft is moved fully in each direction, thrust and counter thrust.
Check the Operation and Maintenance instructions for the correct thrust clearance. If the
clearance is not within tolerance, the bearings may have to be replaced.
Motor Assembly

Click here for Figure 65 — Installing the Stator and End Bell

65. Next, install the stator and end bell. Inspect the stator windings visually for any broken wires
or insulation. Check the internal motor terminals for tightness.

Click here for Figure 66 — Transmission Housing

66. Grease the transmission housing to motor housing "O" ring, using the special silicone
based "O" ring lube, and place it on the transmission housing. The grease will hold it in place.
EXERCISE CAUTION WHILE INSTALLING THE STATOR SO THAT THE WINDINGS DO
NOT GET NICKED OR SCRATCHED.
Use an ohmmeter to check the sensor wires for continuity. With the stator in place, replace the
bolts and tighten to the proper torque.
Motor End Bell

Click here for Figure 67 — Installing the Motor End Bell

67. Next, install the motor end bell. Inspect the refrigerant spray nozzle. Grease the motor end
bell "O" ring and place it in the end bell groove. The grease will hold it in place.
Use the eye bolt, threaded bar stock and rigging to position the end bell. Push the end bell into
place. When the end bell is in place, replace the bolts and tighten.

Click here for Figure 68 — Installing the High Speed Assembly

68. Next install the high speed assembly into the compressor. Replace the small "O" ring that
seals the gas passage to the laby. Align the high speed bearing so the drain is at the bottom.
Push the hi-speed assembly into place being careful to align the shaft in the rear hi-speed
bearing.
When the assembly is in place, install a new high speed labyrinth "O" ring. Use grease to hold it
in place.
 Click here for Figure 69 — Installing the High Speed Labyrinth

69. Install the high speed labyrinth. Note that the labyrinth cap screws hold both the labyrinth
and the high speed assembly in place. Tighten the cap screws to the proper torque.

Click here for Figure 70 — Replacing the Conical Diffuser

70. To replace the conical diffuser, grease each of the two "O" rings and put them into the
grooves in the compressor housing. Put one additional "O" ring on the outer edge of the conical
diffuser. Lift the diffuser into position. Line up the TOP at 12 o'clock and push it into place. Start
a few bolts and replace the remaining bolts. Then tighten to the proper torque.
Impeller Spacing

Click here for Figure 71 — Impeller Spacing

71. Before impeller installation, impeller spacing must be checked to insure proper clearance.
The impeller clearance to the shroud is determined by the shim thickness behind the impeller.
The shim has 0.003" laminations which can be peeled off by using a knife.
First, take an impeller to hub counter bore measurement. We will call this step "B." Place the
impeller in the shroud and center it. With a one-inch thick straight edge in place against the
impeller, use a depth micrometer to make two measurements. Get an average of the two
readings, and record the dimension. Then rotate the straight edge 90° and repeat the
measurements.

Click here for Figure 72 — Shroud Mounting Surface Measurement

72. Now check the impeller to shroud mounting surface measurement. We will call this step "A."
With the straight edge against the impeller, use the depth micrometer to make two
measurements. Get an average of the readings and record the dimension.
 Click here for Figure 73 — Diffuser to Spacer Measurement

73. Now check the diffuser-to-spacer measurement. We will call this step "C." Be sure the
labyrinth and spacer are in place. Use the clamping fixture and lock it in place with a bolt. Be
sure that the shaft is in the counter thrust position (toward the motor).
Place the straight edge in a vertical position. Adjust the straight edge, and take two readings.
Take several additional readings at 3 and 9 o'clock. Reverse the straight edge, and take more
readings. Average the readings, and record them.

Click here for Figure 74 — Impeller Spacing

74. Now subtract the thickness of the straight edge from the diffuser-to-spacer measurement.
The desired shim thickness can now be calculated. First subtract the average impeller-to-hub
counter bore measurement "B" from the average shroud-to-impeller reading "A". Subtract the
value of "A-B" from the diffuser-to-spacer measurement and find the total clearance. Now,
subtract the actual thrust clearance. This gives us a new total. Finally subtract the desired
impeller clearance, or air gap, which is given in the Operation and Maintenance booklet. The
remainder is the required shim thickness.
Installing the Impeller

Click here for Figure 75 — Checking Shim Thickness

75. Before installing the impeller, make sure all necessary tools are on hand. If the impeller has
been replaced, check the part number stamping on the impeller to be sure the correct impeller
is being installed. Record the part number.
To install the impeller, check the shim thickness with a micrometer before installing it. One side
of the shim is a solid ring, and the other side of it has.003" laminations which can be peeled off
to obtain the required shim thickness. Adjust the shim to the proper thickness. Install the shim
over the shaft, against the spacer with solid side toward the impeller.

Click here for Figure 76 — Impeller Keys

76. Next, place impeller keys in the impeller keyway to be sure they fit properly. Then place
impeller keys in their proper shaft keyway slots, by using the index marks. The long edges of
the keys are chamfered. One side of the key has a wide chamfer, and the other a narrow
chamfer. The side of the key with the narrow chamfer goes into the shaft keyway slot.
Next, heat the impeller evenly with a Mapp or propane torch, using a 225 to 250°F heat stick to
prevent damage or overheating.
Install the impeller as soon as the proper temperature is reached, forcing it home immediately.
Be sure the impeller is fully inserted.

Click here for Figure 77 — Installing the Nose Piece

77. Install the nose piece and tighten the bolt to be sure the impeller sets against the shim. Use
the six-sided section to hold the impeller to prevent damage during tightening. Check the
tightness of the bolt periodically as the impeller cools on the shaft. When the impeller has
cooled completely, remove the bolt and use a thread locking compound on the bolt. Tighten the
impeller bolt to the specified torque of 44 to 46 ft. lb.

Click here for Figure 78 — Nose Cone Thrust Reading

78. Now take a nose cone thrust reading to prove the impeller is in place. It must equal the
actual thrust setting. Also turn the compressor over by hand, to make sure it turns free.
 Click here for Figure 79 — Placing the Impeller Shroud

79. Next, lift the impeller shroud into place. Be careful not to hit the impeller.
Start a bolt at 12 o'clock, then start the remaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to the proper torque.

Click here for Figure 80 — Suction Housing

80. Next is the suction housing. If service work was done on the guide vanes, the assembly
would be mounted into the suction housing. Look at the casting. Find the raised letters "DP".
These letters point out where the drive pulley is located and should be positioned toward the
vane shaft. Bolt the assembly into the suction housing.
Put a new "O" ring on the suction housing. Use silicone grease to hold it in place.

Click here for Figure 81 — Setting Up the Rigging

81. Now, set up the rigging on the suction housing lifting lug and rig the housing into place.
Start a couple of bolts and replace the rest. Torque these bolts.
Replace the suction elbow using new flange gaskets.
Do not add new compressor oil until the oil pump is serviced and the oil filters have been
changed.

Click here for Figure 82 — Compressor Overhaul

82. To complete the compressor overhaul, you must still:

• Connect all flanges, pipes, tubing, conduit and electrical connections.
• Change refrigerant filters.
• Perform leak testing and repair any leaks.
• Add new charge of compressor oil.
• Use a megohmmeter to check motor resistance.
• Perform "Machine Dehydration."
• Replace the insulation.
• Open the isolation valves then return the machine to normal operating conditions.

Click here for Figure 83 — 19XL Series Machine

83. Well, that does it. In this program we covered:

• Familiarization
 • Safety considerations
• Tools needed
• Pre-disassembly procedures
• Disassembly procedures
• Inspecting the internal parts
• Recording clearances
• and Reassembly
We hope this program goes a long way to help you understand the 19XL Series machine, and
how to service it.
 19XL QUIZ
Familiarization
1. After isolating the refrigerant charge in preparation for servicing the compressor, the
pumpout unit should be run until the cooler/compressor reaches _______________ of vacuum.
2. The controls for the hot gas bypass valve sense:
a. pressure differential between compressor and cooler.
b.temperature differential between entering and leaving chilled water.
c. pressure differential between cooler and condenser.
d.temperature differential between compressor discharge gas and condenser liquid.
3. With R-22, the compressor needs to pump only _______________ % as much refrigerant
vapor CFM as with R-11.
4. The compressor diffuser has built-in surge protection and totally eliminates the need for hot
gas bypass. T or F
5. The impeller nose piece six-sided section should never be turned, since it is not threaded.
T or F
6. Amps, volts, and operating information are relayed between the PSIO and the
_______________.
 7. High pressure gas directed across the _______________ helps to return oil from the cooler
to the oil sump.
a. diffuser
b.separator
c. eductor
d.demister
8. Lube oil pressure normally runs _______________ to _______________ psi above sump
pressure.
9. Lube oil temperature in the sump is maintained at _______________ to _____________ °F.
 Disassembly Procedures
10. Before transferring the refrigerant from the compressor, it is good practice to:
a. check for refrigerant leaks
b.close the transfer valves.
c. megger the motor.
d.go to lunch.
11. After evacuating the cooler/compressor section, you should leave _______________ to
_______________ psi positive pressure in the section by adding _______________
_______________.
12. Because the impeller is a shrink fit on the shaft, a _______________ _______________ is
necessary for its removal.
13. Before removing the high speed labyrinth seal, be sure to first loosen the seal so the "O" ring
is free. T or F
14. When removing the diffuser, be sure to check the _______________ to see if any service is
necessary.
15. When removing the motor end bell, be sure to pull it straight back at least one foot in order to
clear the _______________ _______________.
16. After the motor is removed, a 100 watt light bulb should be placed inside the stator for the
purpose of:
a. ease of inspection.
b.keeping the stator clean.
c. keeping the stator dry.
d.good luck.
17. After removing the transmission, remove the _______________ assembly and check the
condition of the foam pad.
18. Gas at motor pressure is supplied to the transmission labyrinth seal for the purpose of:
a. cooling the seal.
b.equalizing the pressures across the seal.
c. venting the motor section.
d.reducing oil loss.
19. The transmission bull gear should not be heated during disassembly. T or F
 Compressor Reassembly
20. During re-assembly, the transmission bull gear should be heated in an oven or oil bath only
to _______________ °F.
21. When re-assembling the motor stator, extreme caution is necessary to avoid damage to
_______________.
22. The impeller clearance to the shroud is determined by the thickness of a _______________
located behind the impeller.
23. During re-assembly, the actual impeller-to-shroud clearance must be measured and
calculated, then compared to the desired clearance, in order to determine the required shim
thickness. T or F
24. The side of the impeller keys having the wide chamfer is the side that goes into the shaft
keyway. T or F
25. For reassembly, the impeller wheel should be heated evenly to _______________ to
_______________ °F.
 Tool List
• a Gantry, or adequate rigging
• 1 ton chain fall
• guide bolts
• temperature stick -- 225-250°F
• special impeller puller
• allen wrenches
• depth micrometer
• dial indicator with a magnetic base
• snap ring pliers
• punch set
• outside micrometers--up to 5"
• telescope gauge
• torch
• plastic hammers
• set of open end wrenches
• torque wrench
• nylon slings
• teflon strips
• straight edge
• pry bar
• threaded bar stock
Additional materials needed include:
• insulation and glue
• clean lint-free rags
• refrigerant 22
• approved centrifugal compressor oil
• soldering material
• replacement spare parts, "O" rings, filters, etc.
 19XL Quiz Answers
Paragraph
Familiarization
1. 22 inches 05
2. b and c 07
3. 20 08
4. F 09
5. T 10
6. SMM (starter management module) 17
7. c 20
8. 20, 25 21
9. 140, 160 23

Disassembly Procedure
10. a 24
11. 1, 2; dry nitrogen 24
12. impeller wheel puller 32
 Paragraph
Disassembly Procedure (Continued)
13. T 34
14. silencer 38
15. spray nozzle 39
16. c 40
17. demister 43
18. d 44
19. T 47

Compressor Reassembly
20. 200 61
21. the windings 66
22. shim 71
23. T 74
24. F 76
25. 225, 250 76
Figure 1 — Model 19XL Centrifugal Liquid Chiller
Figure 2 — The 19XL Heat Exchanger
Figure 3 — Compressor
Figure 4 — Compressor (Flanged Elbows)
Figure 5 — Liquid Transfer
Figure 6 — 19XL High Side Float
Figure 7 — Hot Gas By-Pass Option
Figure 8 — 19XL Relief Valves
Figure 9 — Diffuser
Figure 10 — 19XL Impeller
Figure 11 — 19XL Impeller (Drilled Holes)
Figure 12 — 19XL Controls
Figure 13 — 19XL Power Panel
Figure 14 — 19XL PIC Control Center
Figure 15 — 19XL Sensors (Compressor Discharge)
Figure 16 — 19XL Sensors
Figure 17 — Solid State Starter
Figure 18 — Compressor
Figure 19 — Motor Cooling
Figure 20 — Oil Recovery System
Figure 21 — Oil Pump
Figure 22 — Lubrication System
Figure 23 — Oil Heater
Figure 24 — Disassembling the Compressor
Figure 25 — Disconnecting the Oil Reclaim Lines
Figure 26 — Removing the Suction Ell
Figure 27 — Removing the Suction Housing Bolts
Figure 28 — Inspecting Vanes, Pulleys, and Cable
Figure 29 — Disassembling the Shroud
Figure 30 — Nose Cone Thrust Reading
Figure 31 — Removing the Impeller
Figure 32 — Installing the Impeller Wheel Puller
Figure 33 — Removing the Impeller Keys
Figure 34 — Snap Ring
Figure 35 — Removing the Laby Seal
Figure 36 — Kingsbury-type Thrust with Tilting Pads
Figure 37 — Removing the Conical Diffuser
Figure 38 — Silencer
Figure 39 — Inspecting the Motor and Transmission Assemblies
Figure 40 — Removing the Motor Assembly
Figure 41 — Removing the Transmission Assembly
Figure 42 — Dial Indicator
Figure 43 — Rigging the Transmission Assembly
Figure 44 — Hi-Speed Bearing
Figure 45 — Indexing the Laby Seal
Figure 46 — Inspecting the Laby and Seal Ring
Figure 47 — Removing the Self-Locking Bolt
Figure 48 — The Bull Gear
Figure 49 — Setting Up Rigging on the Rotor
Figure 50 — Inspecting the Bearing and Thrust Surfaces
Figure 51 — Bearings
Figure 52 — Measuring the Rotor Bearing
Figure 53 — Measuring the Drive End Bearing
Figure 54 — Measuring the High-Speed Bearing and Shaft
Figure 55 — Measuring the High-Speed Shaft Journal
Figure 56 — Checking the High Speed Assembly
Figure 57 — Checking the High Speed Assembly (Continued)
Figure 58 — Thrust Shoes, Leveling Pads and Adjustment Pads
Figure 59 — Measuring the High Speed Main Journal Bearing
Clearance
Figure 60 — Checking the Thrust Clearance of the High Speed Assembly
Figure 61 — Reassembling the Compressor
Figure 62 — Replacing the Bull Gear Shroud
Figure 63 — Rigging the Transmission Case
Figure 64 — Dial Indicator
Figure 65 — Installing the Stator and End Bell
Figure 66 — Transmission Housing
Figure 67 — Installing the Motor End Bell
Figure 68 — Installing the High Speed Assembly
Figure 69 — Installing the High Speed Labyrinth
Figure 70 — Replacing the Conical Diffuser
Figure 71 — Impeller Spacing
Figure 72 — Shroud Mounting Surface Measurement
Figure 73 — Diffuser to Spacer Measurement
Figure 74 — Impeller Spacing
Figure 75 — Checking Shim Thickness
Figure 76 — Impeller Keys
Figure 77 — Installing the Nose Piece
Figure 78 — Nose Cone Thrust Reading
Figure 79 — Placing the Impeller Shroud
Figure 80 — Suction Housing
Figure 81 — Setting Up the Rigging
Figure 82 — Compressor Overhaul
Figure 83 — 19XL Series Machine