Wiring 1-2-3

Expert Advice from The Home Depot
Install, Upgrade and Maintain

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Your Home’s
Expert Advice From The Home Depot,,
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Wiring 1-2-3® The Home Depot®
Writer: Steve Cory Marketing Manager: Tom Sattler
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How to use this book
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

icing 1-2-3 is filled with practical home wiring Learn what tools you need and how to draw plans. Now you
projects you can do! Professional electricians should be ready to tackle Running new cable and Installing
from The Home Depot stores across the United new services.
States and Canada provided projects that people like you Running new cable provides directions for installing
want to do. And they have checked the book for accuracy— lines, not only in new framing but also in a home that has
an important consideration when dealing with electricity. finished walls. Turn to Installing new services when you're
They helped make sure the book has all the steps for you to ready to run new cable to install a new electrical device or
successfully complete each project. fixture. This type of work is more complicated than simply
Start by reading Safety first. It walks you through basic replacing existing devices or fixtures, and you will need to
rules for working with electricity. Throughout the book, pay work with an inspector and conform to local codes.
close attention to bold red type and safety tips marked Exhaust fans and vents shows how to install the major
with stop signs. types of vent fans, to make your home more comfortable.
If you're new to wiring projects or just need to brush up Outdoor wiring projects describes the special techniques
on the facts concerning home wiring, check out and materials used when running both low-voltage and
Understanding wiring. It provides you with knowledge of standard-voltage wiring to your yard.
what you're working with before you start a project. Home networking covers both new high-tech setups
Basic tools and skills will help you prepare for most of and the more mundane tasks of running phone lines.
the projects in this book. Any special skill required in the Major projects covers installations that involve adding
more difficult projects are usually covered with the project. new circuits. Work through the projects in this chapter only
To discover what electrical upgrades you may need in after you've successfully completed projects throughout the
your home, turn to the chapter on Inspecting your home. book. If your local codes don't allow homeowners to add
Good lighting does more than illuminate. Turn to new circuits, this chapter will provide you with information
Planning lighting for help using lights to create indoor and to understand the project you're hiring an electrician
outdoor areas with style and function. to complete.
Switches and receptacles and Ceiling lights and Electrical repairs shows how to fix lamps, plugs, wiring
fixtures show you how to replace existing devices and in boxes, and chimes.
fixtures with new ones. Projects like this usually do not If you prefer to hire a pro, you will still find this book
require an inspection, and are usually simple tasks that valuable because it will provide you with the knowledge
involve detaching old wires and attaching new wires. to make the right choice and help you judge the work
Projects include installing special-duty switches, GFCI that's done.
receptacles, track lighting, a ceiling fan, and grounding For the do-it-yourselfer, Wiring 1-2-3 provides step-by-
receptacles. step directions, tips from the pros, lighting design ideas, and
Once you've completed some easy upgrades, you'll safety information to help you safely, easily, and accurately
have the skills to move on to Planning for new services. complete your home wiring projects and stylishly light
your home.
WIRING 1-2-3 3
W iring 1-2-3.
Table of contents
How to use this b o o k ........................................................................3 Safety f ir s t ............................................................................................... 6
How power gets distributed . . . . . . . . 8 Wires and cables ............................. . . . 12 Grounding methods _________ ...........17
How a circuit works ....................... . . . 10 Wire nuts and ta p e .......................... . . . 14 Know your service panel . . . . . ...........19
Grounding and p o la riz a tio n .......... . . . 11 Receptacles and switches ............. . . . 15 Receptacle and switch w iring . . . . . . 2 2
C h a p te r 2
BASIC TOOLS AND SKILLS : §: § i j i i i i i i s i n i i i i i

25
Resetting b re a k e rs .......................... . . . 2 6 Basic tool k i t .................................... . . . 28 Stripping and splicing wire . . . ...........32
Changing fuses ............................... . . . 2 7 Using te s te r s .................................... . . . 3 0 Joining w ire to a te r m in a l____ ...........34
C h a p te r 3
INSPECTING YOUR HOME 36

A walk-around inspection ............. . . . 38 Inspecting a service p a n e l............. . . . 46 Alum inum w ir in g ....................... ...........50
Checking the service entrance . . . . . . 43 Mapping c irc u its ............................... . . . 4 7
Inspecting boxes for problems . . . . . . 44 Avoiding circuit o v e rlo a d s ............. . . . 48
Chapter 4
PLANNING LIGHTING 51
Choosing ceiling fix tu re s ................ . . . 5 2 Lighting a b a th ro o m ....................... . . . 58 Planning security lig h t in g ____ ...........62
Selecting bulbs and tu b e s ............. . . . 54 Lighting living a re a s ....................... . . . 59 Lighting your yard ..................... ...........63
Planning kitchen lighting ............. . . . 55 Planning for recessed lighting . . . . . . 61 Deck and patio lig h tin g ............. ...........64
Chapter 5
SWITCHES AND RECEPTACLES 65

Replacing a switch ......................... .........66 Replacing a receptacle ............. ............. 73 Testing switches ............................... . . . . 77
Replacing a three-way s w itc h ___ .........68 Adding GFCI protection ............. ............. 74 Checking 240-volt receptacles . . . . . . 79
Replacing a dimmer s w itc h ........... .........69 Installing a GFCI b re a k e r........... ............. 75 Grounding receptacles .................. . . . 81
Installing special switches ............ .........70 Installing AFCI ............................. ............. 76 Adding surge protection ................ . . . 82
Upgrading a ceiling fixture ------- . . . . 84 Hanging a ceiling fa n ..................... . . . . 90 Installing fluorescent lighting ...........102
Installing track lighting ............. .. . . . . 86 Installing recessed lig h t in g ------- . . . . 96 Adding undercabinet fluorescent lig h ts . 103
Eurostyle lights ............................. . . . . 88 Undercabinet halogen lighting . . . . . 1 0 0
Chapter 7
PLANNIN4S F<DR NEW SEI

Buying tools to run new lines . . . . . 1 0 6 Mapping a job ............. ................. . . . 110 Choosing boxes .................................... 114
Common code requirem ents . . . . . . 1 0 8 Loading circuits c o rre c tly ............. . . . 1 1 2 Installing straps and staples ............. 116
4 WIRING 1-2-3
Chapter 8
RUNNING NEW CABLE 117
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Working w ith NM C a b le ................ . . . 118 Wiring in unfinished framing . . . . . . 1 2 5 Patching walls ............................ .......... 134
Working w ith armored cable . . . . . . 1 2 0 Wiring finished ro o m s .................. . . . 1 2 8 Installing a junction b o x .......... .......... 136
Running c o n d u it............................. . . . 122 Installing remodeling boxes . . . . . . 1 3 2 Installing raceway w iring ____.......... 137
Chapter 9
INSTALLING NEW SERVICES 139

Tapping into a receptacle.......................140 Switching a receptacle ................ ...143 Wiring three-way s w itc h e s ____ . . . . 148
or junction box Splitting a re ce p ta cle ..................... ...144 Wiring four-way s w itc h e s ........... . . . . 151
Installing a new receptacle . . . . . . . 141 Adding a 240-volt receptacle . . . ...145 Adding a wall l i g h t ..................... . . . . 152 k
Adding a w all switch ................ . . . . 142 Adding a fixture w ith a switch . . . . . 146 Installing a smoke detector . . . . . . . 153
Chapter 10
EXHAUST FANS AND VENTS 154

Ventilating an attic ........................ . . . . 1 5 5 Installing a roof fa n ........................... . . . 1 5 7 Installing a bathroom vent fan . . . . . . . 1 6 1
Installing a gable fan .................... . . . . 1 5 6 Installing a whole-house fan ......... . . . 1 5 8 Adding a range h o o d ...................... . . . . 1 6 4
oo o
NO 1--
Low-voltage landscape lights . . . Installing motion-sensor l i g h t s . . , . . . 171 Running conduit and cable ____ . . . 174
Low-voltage deck lights ............. Adding an outdoor receptacle . . , . . . 1 7 2 Installing a la m p p o s t..................... . . . M l
Chapter 12
HOME NETWORKING 178

Planning for a home netw ork . . . . . 179 Distributing telephone lines . . . . . . 1 8 3 Installing a netw ork panel ................186
Installing telephone w ir in g ____ . . . 181 Running coaxial c a b le .................. . . . 1 8 4
Chapter 13
MAJOR PROJECTS 190

Adding a new c irc u it..................... . . . 192 Wiring a k itc h e n ............................. . . . 1 9 7 Electric baseboard heaters . ................201
Installing a subpanel .................. . . . 194 Wiring a b e d ro o m .......................... . . . 1 9 9
Wiring a bathroom ....................... . . . 196 Wiring a laundry room ................ . . . 200
Chapter 14
k
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
.. .
203
Fixing lamp sockets ..................... . . . 204 Repairing pendent fixtures ------- . . . 208 Repairing wires in boxes . . ................213
Replacing lamp s w itc h e s ............. . . . 205 Replacing plugs and switches . . . . . . 209 Troubleshooting a door c h im e ............. 214
Rewiring lamps ............................. . . . 206 Repairing flu o re s ce n ts .................. . . . 2 1 1 Troubleshooting a thermostait ............. 216
Glossary ............................................ ___ 218 Quick guide to cable selection . . . . . . . 223

In d e x ................................................. ___ 220 Choose the right gauge w ir e ......... . . . . 223
WIRING 1-2-3 5
Safety first
lectricians and others who have worked the possibility of dangerous shock, but they don't Shut o ff th e p o w e r
Q with electricity for years know they

always have to follow safety
what happens to people who ignore safe work

habits. This book is loaded with safety reminders to
offer complete protection to a person working on
exposed wires and devices. This is why professional
precautions. They've heard hair-raising storieselectricians
about work carefully. So should you.
Here are a few basic rules for safe electrical
work. Follow them at all times, even when you are
If there is no electrical power, you cannot receive a
shock. Always shut off power to the circuit you are
working on. Do this by flipping a circuit breaker or
completely unscrewing a fuse. Then test for the
presence of power (see pages 30-31).
SAFETY FIRST
help you stay safe while you work. Follow them. doing "just a little" electrical job.
Electricity deserves your respect. Consider how Test fo r p o w e r
household current can affect the human body. If Be aware that more than one circuit may be running
your feet are dry and you are wearing rubber-soled in a box. Test all the wires in an open box for
shoes, receiving a shock from a 120-volt circuit will power, not just the wires you w ill be working on.
definitely hurt, but it will probably not cause you Test everything twice.
serious harm. However, if conditions are wet or your Regularly test your tester to make sure it will
feet are not protected with rubber-soled shoes and indeed tell you when power is present. Touch it to a
you are standing on the ground or on a metal live circuit and see that it glows just before every
ladder, 120 volts can cause the muscles in your test. Many a war story tells of someone turning off
hands to contract so that you grasp the source of the power, only to have a family member or co
current involuntarily. The current will cause your worker turn it back on while work is in progress.
heart to beat wildly, very likely to the point of heart Post a sign telling people not to restore power.
failure. Expect the same consequence if you touch
both live wires of a 240-volt circuit, even if your feet Stay focused
are dry and protected. Children are in even greater Most electrical mishaps occur because of small
POST A SIGN ON THE PANEL
danger. mental mistakes. Remove all distractions. Keep
Take steps to make absolutely certain that no one
The wiring in a modern home should have people, especially children, well out of the way. Turn
will turn the power back on while you are working.
safety features, such as grounding, ground fault the radio off. Even after turning off the power, work
If possible, lock the service panel.
circuit interruption and arc fault circuit interruption. as if the wires are live. Work methodically, and
(See pages 38-46 for how to inspect your home for double-check all connections before restoring power.
these and other safety considerations.) All reduce
Use pro tective tools an d clothing
Rubber grips offer more protection than plastic or
wood handles, so always use rubber-gripped tools
when wiring. Get in the habit of using them
correctly: Grab by the handle, not the metal shaft.
Make sure your pliers and cutting tools have rubber
USE RUBBER-GRIPPED TOOLS grips that are long enough so you will not be
Don't use tools with plastic or wood handles unless tempted to touch the metal while working. Replace
they also have rubber sleeves to provide extra a tool when the rubber is damaged.
protection against electrical shock. Wear rubber-soled shoes, such as athletic
shoes, and perhaps rubber gloves, so that electrical
current will not travel easily through you and into
the ground. Never work with wet feet or while
standing on a wet surface. Do not wear jewelry or a
watch—anything that could possibly get snagged on
wires. Use a fiberglass or wood ladder; an
aluminum ladder conducts electricity.
A sk questions
USE OF ELECTRICIAN'S TAPE Electricians consult with each other all the time,
Electrician's tape can provides extra protection even when they are 99 percent sure they already
BE PROTECTED FROM THE GROUND UP against dangerous ground faults and shorts. understand. Never proceed w ith an installation or
Always keep your feet protected with rubber soles, However, many inspectors prefer that it not be repair unless you are completely sure you know
to lessen the effects of a possible shock. In damp used so they can see your work. Besides, if tape is what you are doing. Don't hesitate to ask "stupid"
areas stand on dry boards. what is holding the wire nut on, you haven't questions of electrical experts in a Home Depot or
installed the wire nut properly. an electrical supply store.
6 WIRING 1-2-3
Understanding wiring
Chapter 1 highlights
HOW POWER GETS DISTRIBUTED
HOW A CIRCUIT WORKS
GROUNDING AND POLARIZATION
WIRES AND CABLES
WIRE NUTS AND TAPE
RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES
GROUNDING METHODS
KNOW YOUR SERVICE PANEL
RECEPTACLE AND SWITCH W IRING
iring contributes to the convenience of life. Flip a switch or turn a
knob, and electricity instantly goes to work. Occasionally, however, a
lamp flickers or a receptacle goes dead. Many electrical procedures
are well within the range of most homeowners, but because electricity can be
dangerous to work with, it may be tempting to call a professional electrician.
This chapter equips you with the basic knowledge you need to safely work on your
home's wiring. It introduces you to the purpose and function of every wire and every
device in your home. Take the time to become knowledgeable about how your home
circuits work. Familiarize yourself with standard safeguards against electrical shocks and
fire. For many projects you may decide to call in a pro, but this chapter will prepare you
to understand what makes a job safe and reliable—useful information whether you do
it yourself or hire someone to do the work. WIRING 1-2-3 7

How power gets distributed
lectricity is the flow of electrons through a From u tility to h o m e
conductor—copper or aluminum wires in Electrical power flows into neighborhoods through overhead
CLOSER LOOK
household construction. Electricity must travel in (or underground) high-voltage wires. Transformers reduce
a loop, called a circuit. In most cases power travels out to the voltage so that the wires entering homes carry a
If you need to plug in a lamp, you a fixture or device through a hot wire—usually coated with relatively safe 120 volts per wire. Through a service head
find an outlet, right? Well, almost. black or red insulation-and back through a neutral wire, these wires enter a meter. The meter records for billing
Technically, an electrical outlet is which has white insulation. When the circuit is broken at any purposes how much power residents in a home use. The
anyplace where electricity leaves point, power ceases to flow. wires then enter the home's service panel, which divides the
the wires to perform a service- Newer homes are grounded. Grounding connects all power into branch circuits (see opposite page).
such as at a light fixture. outlets to the earth and is an essential safety feature (pages Most homes have three wires—two "h o t" wires to carry
A receptacle is a type of outlet; 11 and 17-18). Ungrounded outlets can give a serious shock power into the house and one neutral wire to carry power
it is where electricity exits the if there is a short circuit because of a damaged wire or back to complete the circuit. Having two hot wires means
system through, say, a toaster device. Ground wires are either bare copper or have green that a home can run 120-volt circuits and 240-volt circuits (for
plug. A device is something that insulation. Polarization is an additional safety feature found in large appliances). Older homes with only two wires entering
carries, but does not use, both older and newer homes (page 11). the home—a hot and a neutral—can run only 120-volt
electricity itself; receptacles and outlets. Some appliances, such as electric water heaters, are
switches are devices. A fixture V o lta g e an d am p s hardwired to the circuit (wires are attached directly to the
is an electrical outlet that is Voltage is the electrical pressure exerted by the power unit without the use of a plug or receptacle).
permanently fixed in place, source. Most household fixtures use 120 volts. Large items Underground electrical service to homes is usually
and an appliance is a user of such as ranges and central air-conditioners require 240 volts. provided by three w ires-tw o black and one white—that
electricity that can be moved. On the packaging of electrical devices or in manufacturer's travel through a pipe called conduit. On occasion you may
Thus an overhead light is a instructions, you may see voltage figures, such as 115,125, fine a black, red and white wire. Overhead service is usually
fixture, and a microwave oven 220, or even 250 volts. These numbers reflect the fact that provided by three wires, one of which may be bare. They all
is an appliance. voltage can vary; a 115-volt receptacle is interchangeable connect to the house at a service head. These wires must not
with a receptacle rated at 125 volts. Here we'll refer to 120- be damaged. If an overhead wire rubs against a tree or if an
volt and 240-volt circuits. underground line seems exposed, call your utility company.
The pressure on all wires is approximately 120 or 240 For tips on inspecting a service entrance, see page 43.
volts, but the amount of electricity used by each fixture or
appliance varies. This is because wires, fixtures, and K now yo u r lim its
appliances have different resistance to the voltage. Simply You can perform most repairs and installations on wires,
put, the thicker the wire, the more electricity travels through devices, and fixtures in the home, but do not touch anything
it. The terms amperes (or amps) and watts refer to the outside the home. Never touch wires leading to the service
amount of electrical current and power that specific elements panel or wires upstream from the main shutoff (page 43). If
of a system use (pages 112-113). you have questions about the wires entering your house or
leading from the meter to the service panel, call your utility
company. These wires are usually their legal responsibility.
8 WIRING 1-2-3
From service head to receptacle
Service head
Hardwired
w ater heater
Service
panel Receptacle
Ground
240-volt
Dishwasher circuit for stove
WIRING 1-2-3 9
How a circuit works
ervice panels, whether they have breakers or A 120-volt circuit usually serves a number of outlets. For
fuses, divide household current into several instance, it may supply power to a series of lights, a series of
circuits. Each circuit carries power from the receptacles, or some of each. Heavy-use items, such as
service panel via hot (usually black or red) wires to various dishwashers and refrigerators, may have their own dedicated
outlets in the house, and then back to the service panel via a circuits. A 240-volt circuit is always dedicated to one outlet.
neutral (usually white) wire. A standard 120-volt 15-amp circuit uses #T4 wire; a 20-amp
circuit uses thicker #12 wire. Until recently 240-volt circuits
Types o f circuits used three wires—two hot and one neutral. Recent codes
Most household circuits carry 120 volts. There also may be require four wires, as shown below; the added wire is
several 240-volt circuits. Circuits are rated according to amps. for grounding.
If the outlets on a circuit draw too many amps, the circuit Circuits provide convenience as well as safety. If a repair
overloads. When this happens, a fuse will blow or a breaker or new installation is under way, you can shut off power to
will trip (pages 26-27), preventing an unsafe condition. an individual circuit instead of the entire house.
1 2 0 /2 4 0 -v o lt,
w all-m ounted
receptacle
Dedicated
120-volt
receptacle
120-volt
receptacle
A SERVICE PANEL HAS 1 2 0 - AND 240-VOLT CIRCUITS

Your service panel distributes power according to the needs microwave, while another 120-volt circuit feeds a series of
of a circuit. For example, a 240-volt circuit is designed to receptacles and switched overhead light fixtures.
supply electricity to a heavy-duty user of power, such as an Depending on local code and the manufacturer, some
electric range or a dryer. The single receptacle on a dedicated switches may not have a grounding wire.
120-volt circuit might feed a refrigerator or a large
10 WIRING 1-2-3
Grounding and polarization
ormally, electricity travels in insulated wires and
exits through a light fixture into a bulb, for Ground
Neutral wire bus bar
example. If a wire comes loose or
if a device cracks, a short circuit (ground fault) results, Source of
current
energizing something you don't want to be energized. A
short can occur if a loose wire inside a dryer touches the
dryer's frame or if cracked insulation allows bare wire to
touch a metal electrical box. If you touch energized metal,
you'll get a dangerous shock. Grounding and polarization
Hot wire
protect against this. Here's how they work:
G rounding Neutral
Grounding minimizes the possibility that a short circuit will bus bar
cause a shock. A grounded device, fixture, or appliance is

usually connected to a grounding wire—either bare or
green-which leads to the neutral bar in the service panel. HOW A GROUNDED RECEPTACLE WORKS neutral bus bar in the service panel. The panel
This bar is connected to the earth by one or a combination of To ground a receptacle, a ground wire (either itself is grounded (pages 19-21). This receptacle
these: bare or green) is attached to the receptacle (and is also polarized,
m cold-water pipe to the box, if it is metal) and leads to the
■ grounding rods driven deep in the ground
■ metal plate sunk in a footing or in undisturbed soil.
When a ground fault occurs, the ground path carries the

power to the service panel. This extra path lowers resistance,
causing a great deal of power to flow back to the panel. This Neutral wire
in turn trips a circuit breaker or blows a fuse. At the same
time, power is directed harmlessly into the earth.
Whether your system uses grounding wires or conduit as
the ground path, it must be unbroken in order to operate Source of current
safely. A single disconnected ground wire or a loose
connection in the sheathing or conduit can make the Hot wire
grounding system useless. To check whether a receptacle is

Polarized
grounded, plug in a receptacle analyzer (page 30). receptacle
P olarization
Polarization is a way of making sure that electricity goes
where you want it to go. Because a polarized plug has one
prong wider than the other, there is only one way that the
plug can be inserted into a polarized receptacle. If the recep HOW A POLARIZED RECEPTACLE WORKS breaker or fuse at the other end. The white wire
tacle is wired correctly and an appliance plug is polarized, the The black wire is connected to the receptacle's runs from the silver terminal screw to the
hot wire, and not the neutral wire, will always be controlled brass terminal at one end and to the circuit service panel's neutral bus bar.
by the appliance switch. If the receptacle or plug isn't
polarized, the neutral wire might be connected to the
appliance switch instead, and power would be present in the
appliance even when it is switched off. For extra protection
against shock, install GFCI protection (page 74).
WIRING 1-2-3 11
Wires and cables
se the right wire and cable to avoid creating a
dangerous situation that you'll have to tear out and redo.
REAL WORLD
Here are the basics:
While remodeling my old house, I pulled off the plaster and found cable W ires
running through the walls. It seemed in pretty good shape and had a ground Wire is usually made of a single, solid strand of metal encased in
wire, so I left it. Bad move. Electrical cable doesn't last forever. Even though insulation. For flexibility and ease of pulling, some wire is stranded. Wire is
the insulation wasn't cracked, it's possible that it will deteriorate within the sized according to American Wire Gauge (AWG) categories. Size
next 20 years. I blew the chance to replace it easily. determines how much amperage the wire will carry. Common household
wires and their ratings are:
■ #14 wire (also called 14-gauge) carries 15 amps
■ #12 wire carries 20 amps
■ #10 wire carries 30 amps
If a wire carries more amperage than it is rated for, it will dangerously

overheat. Older wires have rubber insulation, which lasts about 30 years.
New wires have longer-lasting polyvinyl insulation. Insulation color often
tells the function of wire. Black, red, or other colors indicate hot wire.
White or off-white generally is neutral. Green or bare wire is ground.
Types o f electrical cable

Cable is two or more wires wrapped together in plastic or metal
sheathing. Nonmetallic (NM) cable is permitted inside wall, ceiling, and
floor cavities. Special metal plates must be added to the framing to
protect the cable from puncture (page 126). Printing on cable tells you
what is inside: 12/3 means there are three #12 wires, not counting the
ground wire. "G " means that there is a ground wire. For underground
installations and in damp areas, use NMWU cable (also called
Coaxial cable
underground-feed (UF) cable). NMWU cable encases the wires in solid
plastic. Telephone cable is being supplanted by Cat 5e cable, suitable for
telephones, modems, and computer networking. Coaxial cable carries
television signals. Armored cable (pages 120-121) has a flexible metal
sheathing but no ground w ire-the sheathing is used for grounding.
Conduit is a solid pipe through which individual wires are run (pages
Armored Cable 122-123). Metal conduit is often required in commercial installations. Most
building departments require it only where the wiring is exposed.
Regardless of which types of cable are available you should contact your
local building department or electrical inspector to find out which types of
* *^* * • f ir * * r A ' t *\* v v $ ? * * * > « :■ cable are allowable by your local codes.
... . ■ ■ ■,./<
Conduit
12 WIRING 1-2-3
Types of NM cable
In addition to the older type of NM cable shown on the opposite page,
there are several other variations you may encounter. Cable with no NMD 14-3 gauge
printing, or printing that just reads "NM ," is rated safe at temperatures up
to 60 degrees C. NM-B is rated safe at 90 degrees C, making it safer in
places exposed to the sun, or during a fire. NM-C cable has the same heat
rating, but it has a tougher sheathing. Use NMD for most household
/ '
wiring, and NM-C when the cable may be exposed to abuse (as when it
NMD 14-2 gauge
runs exposed in a basement or garage), or when you need to embed the
cable in concrete or mortar.
Older types of cable NMD 12-3 gauge
In an older home you may encounter cables and wires that don't look like
those on page 12. Don't panic; old wiring can remain durable and safe for
decades if left undisturbed. However, it is possible the wiring could pose a N
hazard, so take the time to evaluate your wiring.
Fabric-sheathed nonmetallic (NM) cable has a rubberized fabric that
NMD 12-2 gauge
encases the individual wires. Inside the sheathing there is paper wrapping
around the plastic-insulated wires. Some old NM has only hot and neutral
wires, with no grounding wire, which means that your system is not
grounded (see page 11).
Knob-and-tube wiring uses two separate wires that run through
porcelain knobs (which are nailed onto wood framing members)
or tubes (which run through framing members). One wire is hot and the
other is neutral, but it is often difficult to tell which is which once the wires
get dirty. There is no ground wire, so the system is not grounded.
CLOSER LOOK
Older BX cable has a heavy sheathing and wires that are covered with
fabric insulation. Like metal conduit that has no ground wire running
through it, this wiring is grounded Replace old wiring whenever you get a chance—for example, when you are
using the sheathing, rather than a separate wire. Don't use the thin metal remodeling, or where wiring is exposed in
"bonding wire" for a ground wire; it is there only to solidify the bond a basement or garage. In many cases it is alright
between the sheathing and the electrical box's clamp. to leave old wiring where it is, as long as it is not exposed
to damage.
If the wires in a box have brittle or cracked insulation, that does not
necessarily mean that the wires running through your walls are in the same
shape. Wires that are encased in sheathing are not exposed to the air, so their
insulation stays flexible and strong much longer than wiring that is exposed.
(Of course this does not apply to knob-and-tube wiring, which is exposed
everywhere it runs.)
Old wiring gets dirty, so you often cannot tell a white neutral wire from a
black hot wire. As a result many replacement switches or light fixtures get
wrongly wired: The neutral, rather than the hot, wire is put on the switch
(see pages 22-24 for ways to wire a switch). A neutral-switched light will
switch on and off, but power will be present in the box even after the switch
is off—a somewhat dangerous situation. To determine the wire color, shut off
the power and wash the insulation by gently rubbing it with an alcohol-
soaked rag.
WIRING 1-2-3 13
Wire nuts
and tape #16 stranded wire
ire nuts, sometimes referred to as marettes, must cap all wire

splices. These nuts come in several sizes, identified by color.
On the package you will find a chart telling how many wires
of a given size the nut can handle.
In older homes you may find spliced wire ends wrapped with rubberized
tape that is covered with cloth friction tape. Electricians often wrapped
these well, so you may find them difficult to unwrap. (Slice with a utility
knife before unwinding.)
Small, colored wire nuts are often included with light fixtures. If they
are all plastic (with no metal threads inside) or if it is a challenge to get
them to twist on because they are too small, use orange nuts instead. Use
yellow connectors for splices as small as two #14s or as large as three
#12s. Orange nuts handle combinations ranging from two #16 wires up to
two #14s. Use green wire nuts for ground wires only. The hole in the top
#16 stranded wire
allows you to make an instant pigtail, with one wire poking out. Red wire
nuts will grab splices as small as two #12s and as large as four #12s.
The inexpensive tape often found in large bins at a home center will do the
job, but many electricians prefer to use professional-quality tape. It's thicker
and has better adhesive.
#12 solid wire
14 WIRING 1-2-3
Receptacles and switches
witches and receptacles usually provide trouble- Fifteen-amp GFCI receptacles (page 74) required in
free operation for decades. However, they are bathrooms and kitchens are the exception to this rule. They
not indestructible. If one of yours is cracked, are rated for what is referred to as 20-amp pass-through
singed, or seems too loose, replace it (pages 66-73). because the motors in many appliances require more
electricity at start-up (called power surge), but once they are
W ires and am p s running need only 15 amps to operate properly.
Most circuits comprise three elements-switches and/or Be sure that the amperage of a 240-volt receptacle is
receptacles, a circuit breaker, and the wire that connects rated no lower than that of the appliance. If you are not sure
them. Each must be compatible with the others. which receptacle to use, check with your local building
Most switches and receptacles in a home are designed to department or ask an electrician.
carry 15 amps. Any 15-amp device should be connected to
#14 wire (opposite page), which should lead to a 15-amp Ground h ole up or d ow n?
fuse or circuit breaker in the service panel. Twenty-amp Some electricians install receptacles with the ground holes
circuits require a 20-amp switch or receptacle, #12 wire, and down (when the receptacles are vertical) or to the right
a 20-amp breaker. Other combinations can be dangerous: (when they're horizontal). Others do ground up or to the left.
Overloading a circuit can lead to overheating, which can Ground down and to the right is most common, but
cause a fire. For example, if a 15-amp receptacle is connected choose one way and then install them the same way
to a fuse or breaker that is 20-amp or greater, the receptacle throughout your house.
could be dangerously overloaded before the breaker trips.
Choosing a 120-volt receptacle

Qm O
Neutral
I i slot - H l
Ground
hole “T
®
I f
I # f
i ■ HI i
k
UNGROUNDED 120-VOLT RECEPTACLE GROUNDED 15-AMP, 120-VOLT RECEPTACLE 20-AMP, 120-VOLT RECEPTACLE
This type of receptacle has two slots, with no hole This receptacle is the most common household This receptacle has a neutral slot shaped like a
for a grounding prong. This one is polarized (page electrical device. It will serve most lamps and sideways T so you can confidently plug in large
11), with one slot longer than the other so that a appliances and will overload if you plug in two appliances or heavy-use tools. It should connect to
polarized plug can be inserted only one way. heavy-use items that total more than 15 amps. #12 wires that lead to a 20-amp circuit or fuse in the
service panel.
WIRING 1-2-3 15
Choosing a 2 4 0 -volt receptacle
WALL-MOUNTED 120-VOLT 50 AMP SURFACE-MOUNTED 120/240-VO LT WALL-MOUNTED 120/240-VO LT

STOVE RECEPTACLE 5 0 AMP RECEPTACLE 3 0 AMP RECEPTACLE
Appliances using more power have different plug Some heavy-duty appliances require receptacles This wall-mounted receptacle is typically used with a
designs so they can't be plugged into the wrong with both standard voltage and high voltage. For dryer. Install it in an electrical box specifically
receptacle. To be safe check the information plate example, a range commonly uses 240 volts for its designed for this receptacle. Like the stove
on the appliance to confirm that the amperage burners and 120 volts for the light and the clock. receptacle to the left, this receptacle has a unique
matches that of the receptacle. A 120/240-volt receptacle provides both levels design so only appropriate appliances can be
of power. plugged into it.
Choosing a switch
0 SAFETY ALERT
THREE OR FOUR?
if*
At one time it was common to wire high-voltage
receptacles with three w ires -tw o hot and one
neutral for a 120/240 receptacle; two hot and
Common
one ground wire for a 240-volt receptacle.
term inal
Current codes, however, often require a fourth
wire so that the receptacle has both a ground
and a neutral for added protection. See page 80
for the most common application—rewiring a
Traveler
term inal dryer with a three-prong plug so it fits into a
four-hole plug.
You are probably not required to upgrade
existing three-wire receptacles. However, when
remodeling, you may need to make the change;
check local codes.
SINGLE-POLE SWITCH THREE-WAY SWITCH

This is the workhorse switch in your home. It has Three-ways are always installed in pairs-both
two terminals for hot wires and may also have a switches control the same light(s). There are no
green terminal for a ground wire. The toggle is ON and OFF markings on the toggle. The common
labeled ON and OFF and should be connected to terminal is where you attach the wire bearing
two #14 wires. These wires should be two black power from the source or to the fixture. (See page
wires or a black wire and a white wire that has 68 for how to wire a three-way switch.) Some
been marked (pages 66-67). Check local codes. three way switches have a ground terminal but
others may not.
16 WIRING 1-2-3
Grounding methods
efore you begin any electrical work, find out how
your system is grounded. First plug a receptacle
analyzer (page 30) into every receptacle to make
sure it is grounded. Then check your service panel to make
sure it's grounded-there should be a thick wire running from
the neutral bus bar and firmly clamped onto a pipe or to
grounding rods. Finally, look at the wiring of your receptacles
or fixtures to see how they're grounded (opposite page).
If you have an older home without grounding, you
should ground any new circuits you install. It is also possible
to ground individual receptacles (page 81). A GFCI that is
ungrounded can offer substantial protection for individual
circuits (page 74).
JUMP A WATER METER

Grounding can be provided by attaching wires connected on the upstream side of the meter
to a water pipe. However, there must be an (toward the street, not the house) or that there
unbroken path for a ground that uses a water is a jumper cable, as shown. Local codes may
pipe. A water meter, for instance, breaks the require the jumper wire, as shown above, to
path. Make sure that the ground wire is run back to the panel to attach to neutral.
Ground wire returns to service panel
Trench filled
w ith gravel
Grounding rod
GROUNDING PLATES GROUNDING RODS

A house's ground wire may be attached to a grounding plate Usually, a standard grounding rod provides the soil. If you have dry soil, add another rod or
embedded in the concrete of a footing or foundation. best connection into the earth. Many systems two to improve the connection. The grounding
Sometimes local codes allow you to use a grounding plate use a single rod, but some codes require two wire must be connected firmly to the rod,
buried two feet deep in a horizontal position. Check your connected rods, spaced at least 10 feet apart. either with a special clamp or by welding. Local
local codes to determine your options for grounding. A rod must be at least 10 feet long. Damp soil codes specify how deep the top of the rod
provides better grounding conditions than dry should be buried.
WIRING 1-2-3 17
How receptacles are grounded
0 SAFETY ALERT
GROUND 'EM FIRST!

Always connect the ground wires first. Once you are
sure all the ground connections are firm, connect
the neutral wire, then the hot wire. To ensure
a solid connection between the receptacle and
the box, remove the cardboard washer from the
receptacle's screws.
If you forget to ground a device, you may not
detect the resulting danger because the ungrounded
device or fixture will work just fine. Always test
receptacles using a receptacle analyzer (page 30).
CABLES IN A PLASTIC BOX CONDUIT IN A METAL BOX

Because plastic boxes do not conduct electricity, the If conduit enters the box, it's likely it acts as the
receptacle must be grounded by attaching it to the ground for the receptacle. To ground the receptacle,
bare ground wire in the cable. Check that bare connect copper wire to the back of the box and the
copper grounding wires are spliced together and are ground screw on the receptacle. Check the
attached to the grounding screw of the receptacle receptacle with an analyzer (pages 30-31) to make
with a pigtail ground wire. sure it is grounded.
CABLE IN A METAL BOX TWO CABLES IN A METAL BOX

If one cable enters the box, you can ground the If cable enters a metal box, it's likely the metal box GROUNDING LIGHT FIXTURES
receptacle simply by attaching the ground wire is NOT grounded. Ground the receptacle the way you Your light fixtures should be grounded. Whether
directly to the ground screw on the receptacle and would a plastic box with cables coming into it. Use a a light fixture box is metal or plastic, a grounding
the box. This saves room in the box because you do wire nut to connect the two bare ground wires to a wire should be connected to the fixture. The ground
not need to use a wire nut. Some local codes and third wire that is attached to the receptacle's ground connection may be made to a fixture's thin ground
inspectors insist on the grounding method as shown screw and to the box. If there is not enough room in wire or to a screw on the mounting strap. If the
above. Check your codes before you do the work so the box replace it with a deeper box sized to box is metal, it should also be connected to a
you are not made to do it over. accommodate the receptacle, cables, and wire nuts. ground wire.
18 WIRING 1-2-3
Know your service panel
ind your home's service panel and learn how it mains connect to the main power shutoff-either a large
works before you start wiring inspections, circuit breaker or a pull-out fuse. Some panels use fuses
repairs, or installations. It's where you'll turn off (below left); some use breakers (below right).
power to circuits that you are working on and where you will Some very old homes have only two main wires, one hot
run to when a circuit blows. and one neutral. Such a system is usually considered
adequate if left alone, but if you add service to it you will be
H o w a service p a n el w o rks violating code. However, it will likely be inadequate for the
A service panel is the nerve center of your household's electrical appliances in the average household. If this
electrical system. It routes power to the circuits in your home describes your home, get an electrician to install new service.
and shuts down any circuit that gets overloaded. Every adult From the main shutoff two hot bus bars (also called legs)
in your house should know how to safely reach the service run most of the length down the panel. Each bar carries 120
panel to turn off or restore electricity. volts. Circuit breakers or fuses connect to these bars. (This is
Power from the utility company enters the panel through easier to see in a breaker box than in a fuse box.) Fuses and
three thick main w ires-tw o hots and one neutral. The main breakers rated at 120 volts are attached to a single hot bar;
neutral wire connects to a neutral bus bar, and the two hot 240-volt breakers or fuses are attached to both hot bars.
A 100-A M P FUSE BOX A 100-A M P BREAKER BOX

A large fuse box with a capacity of 100 amps provides adequate electrical service You can see the two hot bus bars more clearly on a breaker box. This 100-amp
for most medium-size homes. While breaker boxes (as shown on the right) are box has ample room for the wires, which are carefully laid out so you easily can
preferred for use, fuse boxes in good shape will also do the job. However, if you see the path for each one.
are thinking of modifying an existing fuse box in any way, it's better to replace it
with a breaker box.
WIRING 1-2-3 19
Each 120-volt circuit has a black or color wire connected appliance, device, or, most likely, an overloaded circuit
to a circuit breaker or fuse, and a white wire connected to a (pages 48-49).
neutral bus bar. For each circuit ground wires lead to a
separate ground bar. Neutral bars (usually two) connect to a When to upgrade a panel
system ground wire. If your panel seems cramped or confusing, have an
Power runs through each fuse or breaker and then out of electrician make sure it is safe. Some panels are too small for
the panel via a hot wire to whatever receptacles, lights, or the number of circuits they serve, crowding the wires. Others
appliances are on the circuit. White neutral wires bring power have the neutral bars too near the hot bus bars so that hot
back to a neutral bus bar in the service panel, completing and neutral wires are dangerously close to each other. Others
the loop. have the neutral bar too far away, so neutral wires have to
travel around the panel.
When circuits overload If you plan to significantly increase your home's power
If a circuit becomes overloaded and is in danger of capacity, have an inspector or an electrician evaluate your
overheating, the circuit breaker will trip or the fuse needs to see if you need to upgrade your basic service. For
will blow, disconnecting power to the entire circuit. instance, you may need to replace a 100-amp panel with
The same thing happens during a ground fault (page 11) or one that pulls 200 amps. Upping your basic power may or
a short circuit, when a hot wire accidentally touches a neutral may not mean changing the wires that lead from the power
wire. If a circuit shuts down frequently, you have a faulty company to your home.
Q SAFETY ALERT
RESPECT YOUR SERVICE PANEL

Even seasoned electricians are very careful when working on energized unless the main breaker has been turned off or
service panels. If you have reservations about working on your the main fuse has been removed.
service panel yourself, hire help. If you decide to inspect or ■ Keep the cover on. Unless you are working on or inspecting a
work on the panel yourself, follow these safety tips. service panel, keep the cover attached so that there is no
■ Always know what's hot. A shutoff device-a switch, a possibility that you will accidentally touch wires.
breaker, or a fuse-turns off power only to the wires beyond ■ Make a map of your circuits (page 47) and post it on the
the device. The wires entering the shutoff device are hot at inside panel door so you can easily see which breaker or fuse
all times. Be sure you know which wires are upstream of the needs to be disabled.
shutoff (prior to the device and therefore not controlled by it) ■ Store stuff away from the panel. Keep flammable objects,
and which are downstream (after it, and therefore controlled including hanging clothes, at least 1 meter or 3 feet away.
by it). If you turn off the main breaker or remove the main Have a charged flashlight handy.
fuse, the whole house will go dead and all the circuits will be ■ Always wear rubber-soled shoes. If the floor by the panel is
de-energized, but not all of the service panel will be safe. at all damp, lay down some boards and lay a rubber mat on
Unless the utility company turns them off, the thick wires top of the boards.
entering the panel are always hot. ■ Never let anyone clip temporary lines into the panel.
■ Keep your hands off the bus bar. When you turn off a breaker Welders and floor sanders sometimes want to clip 240-volt
or remove a fuse, the wires to the circuit will be dead, but extension lines directly onto your hot and neutral bars.
the bus bar will still be hot. The bus bars are always This is dangerous!
Older fuse panel
An older home that has not been remodeled
may have a 60-amp fuse box like the one
shown. It supplies fuses for only four circuits—
not enough to meet modern code for a kitchen
alone. It also has two pull-out fuse blocks,
which have two cartridge fuses each. The top
fuse block is the main shutoff, and the bottom
fuse block supplies the only 240-volt circuit
allowed on the system. This box will be
sufficient only for a home with very modest
electrical needs. Most homeowners will want to
update to a 100- or even a 200-amp breaker
box. An upgrade may be required before the
house is sold or in order to qualify for financing.
Subpanels
If your main service panel does not have
enough room to meet the house's needs, a
subpanel may have been installed. You may
find one near the main service panel, or it could
be located on a different floor where it may
control the outlets on that floor. A subpanel
allows for the addition of new fuses or circuit
breakers. This is safe as long as the wires
leading from the main panel to the subpanel
are thick enough and they are attached to a
breaker that is correctly sized for a subpanel. For
instance, if the subpanel needs 40 amps, the
breaker on the main panel for the subpanel
should be a 40 amp breaker. If the subpanel
carries 30 amps, 10/3 cable should run from the
main panel to the subpanel. There should be a
main shutoff in the subpanel, which controls all
the power entering it. A 40-amp subpanel
should use 8/3 cable. Unfortunately, subpanels
are sometimes installed incorrectly. If you are
unsure of your subpanel's amp rating or
whether it is wired correctly, have it inspected
by a professional electrician.
WIRING 1-2-3 21
Receptacle and switch wiring
emove an electrical cover plate and pull out a
switch or receptacle, and you'll find an
arrangement involving a few wires going directly
to the device. Or, you may find a multicolored tangle of
wires, some related to the switch or receptacle and some
not. Here are some of the most common wiring
configurations you'll find behind electrical cover plates.
Switches that come with grounding terminals must be
grounded to the system and the electrical box as seen in the
photograph on the right. (For more information on
grounding, see page 11.)
SWITCHES SHARING A HOT WIRE

Switches that share a hot wire are on the same has a ground terminal it must be grounded both
circuit. Two pigtails (page 35) branch off from to the system and the grounding terminal in the
the incoming hot wire and connect to each box. When wiring switches make sure the box is
switch. Another hot wire runs from each switch big enough to accommodate the switches,
to a light. White wires are spliced. If the switch cables, and wire nuts.
CLOSER LOOK
A receptacle with one cable that carries power splice. Each pigtail is attached to the receptacle.
into the receptacle and one that carries it to If only one cable enters the box, the receptacle
another device is called a "middle-of-the-run is at the end of the run. The black wire is
A SPLIT RECEPTACLE receptacle." Usually two black wires are attached to the brass terminal, the white wire is
Also known as a "half-hot" receptacle, this is connected to connected to the brass terminals and two white attached to the silver terminal, and the ground
two hot wires. The brass tab joining the brass terminals has wires to the silver terminals. Or the blacks and wire is attached to the receptacle.
been broken off. With the tab broken, each hot wire the whites may be joined, with a pigtail at each
End-of-the-run
energizes one plug. Some split receptacles have each plug receptacle
energized by a different circuit so that you can plug in two
high-amperage appliances without the danger of tripping a
breaker. Others are wired so that half the receptacle is
controlled by a wall switch, while the other half is hot all the
time. See page 144 for more information.
receptacle
22 WIRING 1-2-3
WIRES STRIPPED MIDWAY ALUMINUM WIRE
You may find wires that have 1 inch of insulation stripped along the lengths, rather than being cut Aluminum wire, which is silver in color and thicker than
and each end stripped. Some electricians use this technique to save time. If the connections are copper wire, is not widely used because it expands and
tight, this is a safe arrangement. However, for your own work, avoid this shortcut. Wire often gets contracts, loosening connections. Make sure the receptacle is
nicked or scraped in the process. Use pigtails instead (page 35). rated CO/ALR. (See page 50 for how to keep an aluminum
system safe.)
0 SAFETY ALERT
SHOCK DEFENSE: M AKE SURE

ALL CIRCUITS TO THE DEVICE
ARE OFF
Before removing a fixture or a
device, flip off the circuit breaker
and test for power (pages 30-31),
or turn off a light switch. Be
aware, however, that boxes may
contain wires from more than one
circuit. To be safe test all wires for
power with a voltage detector.
When removing the plate,
grasp only the rubber handle of
the screwdriver. When removing
the device, pull gently, holding
WHAT COLORED WIRES MEAN WHY WHITE WIRES MAY BE MARKED
the plastic rather than metal
Colored wires are sometimes used by electricians to indicate When power runs into the fixture box rather than the switch
parts. Don't dislodge wires. Wear
different circuits. When this is done correctly, a circuit uses its box, another cable brings a black and a white wire into the
rubber-soled shoes.
own wire color-say, brown or purple. By turning off the switch box. When the switch is on, both wires are hot, so the
breaker attached to the brown wire, you turn off power to all white wire may be painted black with a marker or wrapped
devices attached to brown wires. (Do not assume yours is with a bit of electrician's tape. Do not remove the tape or
wired this way. Always test to make sure power is off.) scrape away the paint, or you will give the false—and
dangerous-signal that the white wire is neutral.
WIRING 1-2-3 23
Two ways to wire a switch
Power may run first to the switch box, or it may run first to the fixture box.
In either case the wiring must be configured so that the switch can
interrupt the hot wire (when the switch is turned off) or allow power to
Until fairly recently it was common to wire
flow through the hot wire (when it is turned on). The hot wire coming
light fixtures and their switches without
from the power source is sometimes called the "feed wire."
connecting the grounds. (The extra
With "through-switch" wiring, power runs first to the switch. Two
protection of grounding was considered
cables enter the box, one from the power source and one from the fixture.
unnecessary, since a light does not pose the
The feed wire is connected to one of the switch terminals; the black or
hazards that a receptacle does.) Today's
colored wire leading to the fixture is connected to the other terminal; and
tougher electrical standards call for all
the white wires are spliced. At the fixture the two wires are attached to
switches and fixtures to be grounded. If you
the fixture.
have ungrounded switches or fixtures, it is
With "end-line" wiring power goes to the fixture and a cable runs
safe to leave them alone, but you should
from the fixture to the switch. At the fixture the power source's white wire
certainly connect the ground wires if they
and the switch cable's black wire are connected to the switch. The feed
are available.
wire is connected to the switch cable's white wire, which is taped or
painted black to indicate that it is actually a hot wire. At the switch only
one cable enters the box. The white wire is painted or taped black, and
both wires are connected to the switch.
Electricians and inspectors differ on marking white wires with black
tape to indicate they are actually a hot wire. This is a practice that may be
controlled by local codes. It is best to ask at your local home center or call
up the inspector's office to inquire about what local inspectors will look for.
"THROUGH-SWITCH" WIRING "END-LINE" WIRING
2-w ire cable
— 1
wire
Power source
24 WIRING 1-2-3
Basic tools and skills
RESETTING BREAKERS
CHANGING FUSES
BASIC TOOL KIT
USING TESTERS
STRIPPING AND SPLICING WIRE
JOINING WIRE TO A TERMINAL
quipped with a basic understanding of household electricity, you may
be tempted to dive right into your project. After all, how hard can it
be? Grab a utility knife, some tape, and a pair of pliers, and start TOOL SAVVY
X
splicing and twisting, right? THI RIGHT STUFF
Although you'll need carpentry
Some homeowners who tackle wiring projects with this attitude successfully
tools to cut and patch holes for
complete the repairs they set out to make. But there's no guarantee that their work will installing cable and boxes, don't
use them as substitutes for tools
meet the standard requirements for safety and longevity.
designed specifically for electrical
Professional electricians perform their highly detailed work accurately and safely. work. The right tools protect you
from shocks, ensure secure splices
They ensure the tightness of connections so there's no chance of them coming apart.
and connections, and make the
They cover all bare wires to avoid the danger of shorts. job more enjoyable.
With the help of this book, the right tools, and some practice, you can maintain
and upgrade your home's electrical system with confidence and reliability that
rival the pros.
WIRING 1-2-3 25
Resetting breakers
he fuses or circuit breakers in the service Learn how to shut off and restore power from the
O CLOSER LOOK
a panel form the first line of defense for
your home, protecting you and your
service panel. Map your circuits and tape an index in
your service panel (page 47). Always leave a clear
BASIC TOOLS AND SKILLS
HOW BREAKERS TRIP family from fire and shock. If a house is wired pathway to the service panel.
Service panels and breakers are made by a correctly, with no circuits overloaded, you may never If a circuit breaker trips often, even though you
number of manufacturers, so there are various have to open your service panel except to shut off don't seem to be running too many appliances or
ways to reset breakers. Here are some common power while working on an electrical project. lights, the problem may be the wiring or the circuit
types of breakers. If a circuit in your home frequently blows a fuse or breaker. It's easy to test a breaker (see below).
trips a breaker, check pages 48-49 for tips on how to
eliminate circuit overloads.
Testing a breaker
A
This type flips halfway toward OFF when it trips.

To reset it, turn it off, then on.
This breaker flips off all the way. Just flip it back
on to reset it. On some a red button displays or
pops out, showing that the breaker has tripped.
TEST THE BREAKER REPLACE THE BREAKER

If you suspect that a faulty breaker is tripping for no Shut off the main breaker to be safe. Loosen the
apparent reason, touch the prongs of a voltage tester setscrew on the damaged breaker, then pull out the
to the breaker's terminal screw and a ground. If there wire. Pull out the breaker by hand. Make sure you
This breaker model has a button that pops out is no power, the breaker is faulty. Or try this test: Shut touch only plastic, never anything metal. Pull out one
when it trips. Push the button in to reset. off the main breaker. Loosen the setscrews on the end of the breaker to loosen it, and then pull out the
suspected breaker and a nearby breaker of the same whole breaker. Buy a new breaker of the same
amperage. Switch the wires, tighten the setscrews, amperage and size, made by the same manufacturer.
and flip the main breaker back on. If the original Slip the wire into the new breaker and tighten the
breaker trips unreasonably while connected to a setscrew. Push the breaker in until it snaps in place like
different circuit, replace the breaker. the ones around it. Restore power.
26 WIRING 1-2-3
Changing fuses
lways replace a blown fuse with a Time delay fuse
a fuse of amperage appropriate for

the circuit. A living area usually

requires a 15-amp fuse; an appliance area
needs a 20-amp fuse. A 30-amp fuse is used
only for a range or dryer circuit, or for a line to a
subpanel. Installing a fuse of higher amperage
may get the circuit going again, but it puts your
house at risk because the fuse won't blow
when wires get dangerously hot.
Types o f fuses
A time-delay fuse holds itself together for a
second or so during a momentary surge of cartridge fuse
power-for example, when a refrigerator
motor turns on. The fuse will blow if the
circuit remains overloaded.
An S-type fuse has a socket adapter that W h y a fuse b le w
screws into the fuse box socket where it If the metal strip inside the fuse is broken
becomes permanently lodged. Once screwed completely, the circuit overloaded: Too many
in it is impossible to install a fuse of a appliances and lights were running at the same
different amperage. time. If the fuse window is blackened, the
A circuit-breaker fuse has a push button that cause is a short circuit-meaning that
pops out when the circuit overloads. Instead of somewhere wires are touching each other or a Short Overload
replacing the fuse, you push the button back in wire is making contact with metal. Inspect
to restore power. Many electricians don't think switches, receptacles, and fixtures-and fix the
they're reliable; others consider them safe. problem right away.
Working with cartridge fuses
REMOVE THE FUSE FROM THE BLOCK

If a 240-volt circuit in a fuse box blows, the fuses are (Be careful. If you have just removed the fuse, its (pages 30-31). If the fuse tests positive for
probably located inside a fuse block. Turn off the power. Grab metal parts may be hot.) To see whether a continuity, it is good. If not, it has blown. Take it
the wire handle and pull out the block. Use a fuse puller to cartridge fuse has failed, touch both ends with to a home center or hardware store and buy an
remove each cartridge fuse. the probes of a continuity tester or multitester exact replacement.
WIRING 1-2-3 27
Basic tool kit
ompared to power tools used for carpentry work, the cost of With lineman's pliers you can cut wire and easily twist them together. Buy a
Q electrical tools is a drop in the tool bucket. Buy everything you need.
If you spend a little more to buy professional-quality tools, you'll find
that they'll help you work faster and produce better connections.
The following section describes the tools you'll need to make all the
inspections, repairs, and installations described in this book through page 104.
high-quality pair that is fairly heavy in the hand, smooth-operating, with
precisely aligned cutting edges for easy snipping of wires. Use longnose pliers to
twist a tight loop in a wire end before attaching it to a terminal. Make sure the
pair you buy is sturdy enough to handle household wiring-some are intended
for finer wires used in electronics.
(You may also need a few basic household tools such as a hammer, standard Among the many precautions you can take to protect against electrical
pliers, and a keyhole saw.) More advanced tools required for installing new shock, using rubber-gripped screwdrivers when doing electrical work is one of
electrical lines are described on pages 106-107. Be sure all your metal tools the most important. Don't use screwdrivers with plastic handles only. They can
have insulated grips. crack, creating a shock hazard. The handles should be large enough so that you
DSK
will not be tempted to grab the metal shaft while you work. (Four-in-one
Tools y o u 'll n e ed screwdrivers are especially unsuited to electrical work because they have a
With wire strippers you can remove insulation from wires neatly and without metal shaft that runs through the handle.)
nicking the metal. Get a pair with a spring that opens the jaws. Keep a reliable flashlight handy because you may have to work in the dark.
A wire stripper/cutter cuts wire like a pair of scissors and has a hole for Every home center has a bin of inexpensive electrical tape. It'll do the job,
stripping wire. Professional electricians often use this tool, or lineman's pliers, to but far better is the more expensive, professional-quality tape—it's thicker, more
strip wires instead of using wire strippers. It takes practice to do this without adhesive, and longer lasting.
damaging the wire. Side-cutting pliers, or diagonal cutters, make it easy to cut
wire and to snip off stripped plastic sheathing.
Side-cutting
Wire strippers
pliers (diagonal cutters)
Lineman's pliers
Electrical tape
Flashlight
Stripper/Cutter
4-level voltage tester
Continuity tester
28 WIRING 1-2-3
Selecting testers
Even if you do not plan to do much electrical work, buy a GFCI (ground fault
circuit interrupter) receptacle analyzer (it handles standard receptacles as well).
It will quickly tell you whether the receptacles are safe.

There are various tools you can use to test for the existence of power. A
continuity tester checks the reliability of fuses, switches, and sockets with the
power off. A four-level voltage tester-better than the cheaper, single-level
version-indicates if the power is on or off. A digital multitester is useful for
appliance repair as well as electrical work. It performs the tasks of both a
continuity tester and a voltage tester.
A voltage detector senses power, even through wire and cable insulation, so
you can see whether wires are live before you work with them. With a two-part
circuit finder, you can easily find out which circuit a receptacle is on. (Testers are
described in detail on pages 30-31.)
Basic tool care

Protect tools from moisture; rust causes them to lose their effectiveness. Make
sure that the plastic insulation on each tool is in good shape so that your hand
does not touch any metal part. If a cutting tool loses its edge so it's a struggle to
ELECTRICIAN'S TOOL BELT
cut wire, replace the tool.
Though a basic carpentry tool belt will keep your electrical tools close at hand, an
electrician's tool belt is specially designed for keeping often-used electrical items
within easy reach. Even if you work on only a half-dozen boxes and devices, a belt
will save time.
FIBERGLASS STEPLADDER
Never stand on a metal ladder while working with or near electricity. Use a
fiberglass ladder, like the one shown above, or a wood ladder that's labeled
"nonconductive." These ladders protect you from shock. Although they are also
heavier than aluminum ladders, they are more stable.
SQUARE DRIVE SCREWS

Slotted screws can be difficult to set, especially in tight spaces. Square drive screws
(with a square slot in the head) require a special head for the screwdriver but offer a
more positive driving action with far less slippage.
WIRING 1-2-3 29
Using testers
eliable testing is essential to electrical work. Testers tell you
0 whether the wires you are working on are hot; whether a

switch, receptacle, or fixture is in working order; and whether
BASIC TOOLS A N D SKILLS
a receptacle is wired safely.

Don't skimp on electrical testing tools. You might not need a fancy
multitester, but avoid inexpensive tools such as single neon testers. They
can quickly burn out or easily break, making you think there is no power
when there really is.
If you buy a multitester, invest in a digital model rather than one with
a dial. A digital tester is easier to use and is far less likely to give the
wrong reading.
Examine your tester regularly to be sure it provides accurate
information. To confirm that it's working, poke the probes of a voltage
tester into a receptacle you know to be live, and make sure the tester
lights up. Touch the probes of a continuity tester together. If the tester A VOLTAGE TESTER INDICATES THE PRESENCE OF POW ER
lights up, it's working. If it doesn't light up, it may need a battery or a bulb. A four-level voltage tester is safer and more reliable than one-level
Keep testers dry and safe from harm. versions. Always confirm that a voltage tester is working by trying it on
a circuit that you know to be live. Touch the tester's probes to a hot wire
and a grounded box, to a hot wire and a neutral wire, or insert them into
the slots of a receptacle. If the tester light doesn't come on, the circuit
is shut off.
Timer switch
A C O N TIN U ITY TESTER TELLS YOU W H ETHER A DEVICE OR A RECEPTACLE ANALYZER TELLS YOU W H ETH ER YOUR
FUSE IS DEFECTIVE RECEPTACLES ARE SAFE
Disconnect the device from all household wires. Attach the tester's When you plug this analyzer into a receptacle, one or more of three lights
alligator clip to one terminal and touch the probe to the other terminal. If will glow, telling you whether the receptacle is working, grounded, and
the device switch is working, the tester light will glow when the switch is polarized (page 11). Buy a tester for the type of receptacles you have in
turned on and go out when the switch is turned off. To test the wiring in your home. While some analyzers will test ground fault circuit interrupter
an appliance or lamp, touch both ends of each wire. The tester light will (GFCI) receptacles as well as standard receptacles, others analyzers test
glow if the wire is unbroken. (To test a fuse, see page 27.) standard receptacles only.
30 WIRING 1-2-3
TOOL SAVVY

A multitester tests 120-volt, 240-volt, or low-voltage circuitry.
Multitesters have negative and positive probes. Test for
voltage by touching each probe to a wire, terminal, or
A VOLTAGE DETECTOR SENSES P O W E R - receptacle slot. You can also touch one probe to the black wire
EVEN THROUGH WIRE AND CABLE INSULATION and the other to a ground, such as a metal box. The display
This handy tester lets you check whether wires are live before you work on them. should show between 108 and 132 volts for a 120-volt circuit,
The probe doesn't need to touch a bare wire or terminal. Press the detector button and and between 216 and 264 volts for a 240-volt circuit. Low-
hold it on or near an insulated wire or cable to see if power is present. If there's power voltage circuitry can register as low as 4 volts.
a light comes on.
TO TEST FOR CONTINUITY

A multitester can test a switch, receptacle, fuse, or light fixture
Shut off the power
to see whether its circuitry is damaged.
and remove the device. Test for continuity by turning the
dial to an "ohm s" setting and touching each probe to a
terminal on the device. If you test a switch, turn it ON. If the
CIRCUIT DETECTORS INDICATE WHICH CIRCUIT A RECEPTACLE IS ON multitester needle shows zero resistance, the device is in good
Plug one part of the circuit detector into the receptacle. Open the service panel door shape. An infinity reading means that the device is defective.
and point the other part of the tester at the circuit breakers. The detector will glow to
indicate the correct circuit. Even after switching off the circuit, check for power at the
receptacle before working.
WIRING 1-2-3 31
Stripping and splicing wire
El ith practice you'll soon learn to
remove insulation and connect
When splicing two wires
SKILLS: Using wire strippers, dikes, or wires with ease. Keep in mind that
together, strip about
lineman's pliers cutting into metal wire while stripping will

weaken it. If wires are not joined tightly, the
PROJECT: Stripping and splicing
two wires electrical connection will be compromised and
1 inch of insulation.!
could cause a short.
To work with new cable, you'll first have to
will be joined to a terminal,
EXPERIENCED: 1 min.
remove the sheathing. (See pages 118-121 to
see how to remove sheathing from various
remove about % inch.
HANDY: 3 min.
types of cable.)
NOVICE: 10 min.
Use a wire nut (page 14) to join wires. Twist
the wires together before adding the wire nut.
TOOLS: Wire strippers, lineman's

pliers, or side-cutting pliers
MATERIALS: Wire, electrician's tape,
wire nuts
REAL WORLD
X
SPLICING WIRES
It's possible to makes splices without
twisting the wires together by
holding the wire ends next to each
other and twisting on a wire nut.
Some might believe that this
method is just as strong, but it only
takes one loose wire to shut down a
whole circuit and it could take hours
to find the faulty wire. Take the extra
time and twist the wires together OPTION A: STRIP WIRES WITH OPTION B: USE A WIRE STRIPPER/CUTTER
before twisting on the wire nut. A WIRE STRIPPER TOOL Many electricians consider wire strippers too slow. They
Don't use a utility knife; it will probably nick the wire. Choose prefer tools that are sometimes called "dikes." These include
a pair of wire strippers and practice with them until you're lineman's pliers, side-cutting pliers, or a stripper/cutter, with
comfortable using them. To use a wire stripper, slip the wire a single stripping hole. It takes time to learn to use these
into the correct hole, squeeze, twist, and pull off the tools without nicking the wire. Press down with just the right
insulation. The insulation should come off easily. amount of pressure to cut through the insulation and not the
wire. Maintain the same pressure and twist until the
insulation is cut all the way around. Ease up on the squeezing
pressure, and pull off the insulation.
32 WIRING 1-2-3
Hold the stripped wires side by side. Grab the ends of both Using the lineman's pliers or side-cutting pliers, snip off the
with lineman's pliers. Twist clockwise, making sure that both end of the twist. Leave enough exposed metal so that the STRANDED W IRE
wires turn. Twist them together like a candy cane; don't twist wire nut will just cover it—a b o u tin c h usually does it. To join stranded wire (often found
one around the other. The wires should form a neat-looking on light fixtures and specialty
spiral. Twist several times, but don't overtwist or you might switches) to solid-core wire, give
break the wires. the strands several twists
between your thumb and
forefinger to consolidate the
strands. Then wrap the stranded
wire around the solid wire, again
Twist all
the wires with your fingers. Check that the
at once stranded wire protrudes past the
solid wire '/& inch or so. Twist on a
wire nut, and tug both wires to
make sure you have a solid
connection. Finally, wrap the
bottom of the wire nut with
electrician's tape.
SPLICING THREE OR FOUR WIRES

Select a wire nut designed for the number and size of wires When twisting three or four wires together, hold them
you have spliced (page 14). Slip the nut on as far as it will go, parallel and twist them all at once with lineman's pliers.
and twist clockwise until tight. Test the connection by (Don't twist two together and then try to add a third.) Choose
tugging on the n u t-it should hold securely. For extra a wire nut designed to accommodate the number and size of
protection, you may wish to wrap electrician's tape around wires you have spliced (page 14) and twist the nut on as
the bottom of the cap. However, be aware that some shown in Step 4.
inspectors do not like taped wire nuts. It's best to know your
local codes and the inspector's preferences beforehand.
WIRING 1-2-3 33
Joining wire to a terminal
oining wire to a terminal is an important skill and
SKILLS: Bending and fastening

electrical wire
PROJECT: Joining two wires to
terminals
O a key step in most electrical projects. Do this step
properly to ensure the device works and doesn't
develop a short.
M a k in g th e right connection
Electricians wrap the wire nearly all the way around the
screw to make a connection that is completely reliable. With
some practice you can make joints just as strong. Bend a wire
EXPERIENCED: 1 min.
in a circle loop, slip it under the screw head, tighten the loop,
HANDY: 3 min.
and tighten the screw.
NOVICE: 7 min.
Many devices come with terminal screws unscrewed.
Screw in any unused terminal screws so they won't stick out
dangerously, creating a shock hazard should the terminal
TOOLS: Longnose pliers, side-cutting touch a metal box.
pliers, wire-bending screwdriver
MATERIALS: Wire, device with
terminals
Screw in any unused
terminal screws so
Check that power is shut off. Strip about % inch of insulation
they won't stick out from a wire end (page 32). Using longnose pliers or the tip of
a pair of wire strippers, grab the wire just above the
dangerously, creating insulation and bend it back at about a 45-degree angle.
Move the pliers up about \ inch beyond the insulation and
a shock hazard bend again in the opposite direction, about 90 degrees.
OPTION A: BEND A QUESTION MARK OPTION B: USE A WIRE-BENDING SCREWDRIVER

Use a longnose pliers to form a near-loop with an opening This simple tool makes perfect hooks every time. Just push
just wide enough to slip over the threads of a terminal screw. the stripped wire between the screwdriver shaft and the
Move the pliers another 1/4 inch away from the insulation, and stud at the base of the handle. Twist the handle to make a
bend again to form a shape that looks like a question mark. perfect loop.
34 WIRING 1-2-3
IMS O N
USING PIGTAILS
Codes prohibit attaching two
wires to one terminal. If you
need to attach two wires to one
SQUEEZE THE LOOP AROUND THE SCREW terminal, cut a "pigtail" wire
Make sure the terminal screw is unscrewed enough to Some electricians wrap electrician's tape around the body of 6 inches long, and strip both
become hard to turn. Slip the loop over the screw threads, the device to cover the screw heads and exposed wires. The ends. Splice the two wires to the
with the loop running clockwise. Use longnose pliers or wire thinking is to not only ensure the wires stay attached, but to pigtail, and join the pigtail to
strippers to squeeze the loop around the terminal, then also keep the terminals from touching the box. However, the terminal.
tighten the screw. Install the switch. some inspectors do not like this practice since they cannot
see your work. Before using tape check with the inspector.
CONNECTING TO A 240-VOLT RECEPTACLE SKIP THE PUSH-IN OPTION

Be certain that power is shut off—there is a dangerous level Most professionals don't trust this method even small screwdriver into a nearby slot to release the
of power here. Strip about]k inch of insulation from the wire though it saves time. Many receptacles and clamping mechanism that holds the wire inside.
end. The wire should be straight, not looped. Loosen the switches have holes in the back for easy The system works, but the resulting electrical
setscrew, poke the wire into the hole, and tighten the screw. connection of wires. Once you've stripped the connection is not as secure as a connection made
(See page 145 for installing a 240-volt receptacle.) insulation (a strip gauge shows you how much), using a terminal screw. Take the extra minute to
you poke the wire in. To remove a wire, insert a do it right.
WIRING 1-2-3 35
A WALK-AROUND INSPECTION MAPPING CIRCUITS
CHECKING THE SERVICE ENTRANCE AVOIDING CIRCUIT OVERLOADS
INSPECTING BOXES FOR PROBLEMS ALUMINUM WIRING
INSPECTING A SERVICE PANEL
36 WIRING 1-2-3
Inspecting your home
ou can correctly assess the safety of your home even if W h e n to co n su lt codes
Q you aren't a professional with a clipboard and a head full
of electrical codes. Many problems inspectors find will be
just as obvious to you once you learn how to find them.

If, during the course of an installation or inspection, you see wiring that's
improperly connected and you don't know how to fix it, or if you see
wiring that you do not understand, call in a pro or check with your
INSPECTING YOUR HOME

If you see evidence of unprofessional electrical work in one area of electrical safety authority.
your home, chances are good that a previous homeowner made some When you install new service in your home (make an installation that
amateur installations and probably didn't consult codes or have the work involves running new cable), you must get a permit and be sure to work
inspected. Be on the lookout for other instances of substandard work. according to code. (See page 108 for tips on working with inspectors.)
This chapter begins with a "walk-around" inspection of your home,
instructing you to examine fixtures, receptacles, and switches in plain sight. T h e CEC a n d local codes
Later the chapter demonstrates how to open your service panel and Codes vary from area to area. In fact, sometimes the regulations
electrical boxes to inspect wires and terminals. in neighboring cities can differ. However, all local codes are based on the
Each section identifies common household problems and refers you to Canadian Electrical Code (CEC). The CEC provides precise details about
a page describing how they can be fixed. materials and installation—sometimes far more than you need to know
about residential electrical installations. Copies are often available at your
M e e tin g co d e local library. The CEC is updated every few years to reflect changes in both
Local building codes and regulations are imposed to protect you and your products and installation techniques.
family from shock and fire, and to make sure your wiring works reliably As you consult these books, remember that local codes prevail. Your
for decades. See pages 108-109 for more detailed information about codes. local building inspection department will probably have brochures or
leaflets that describe the most common electrical codes for residences.
W h e n y o u d o n 't n e e d c ode
Codes change over the years as new hazards are discovered and new
BUYER'S GUIDE
_ — \
products are introduced. It's possible that some of the wiring in your home
H IR IN G A PRO
fails to conform to current regulations. Usually that's not a problem, as Most professional electricians are qualified, honest, and charge fairly.
Unfortunately, a few take advantage of homeowners' lack of knowledge and
long as it conforms to the rules that existed when the wiring was installed.
general fear of electricity. Too often unscrupulous contractors target the elderly.
But any new work, even if it connects to old work, must meet code. Word-of-mouth can be a great way to find reliable contractors, but even sharp
consumers may be unaware they received shoddy work or overpaid. For a
If you repair a fixture or replace one fixture with another without
large job get quotes from at least three contractors. Their bids should include
running new cable, there's no need to consult codes. Even if local a list of "specs"—everything to be installed and how it will be installed.
Check that the contractor is licensed for your area and is covered by
regulations require you to get a permit for every fixture replacement, most
insurance. This way, if there is a fire or if a worker is injured on your property,
inspectors will not want to be bothered with such small changes. you will not be held liable. If the work involves running new cable, the
contractor—not the customer—should get a permit.
Read the section in this book about the installation you will pay for. Oon't
be afraid to ask the electrician to explain the work being done. Question
everything that looks substandard. In particular have the contractor explain
how the installation is grounded.
WIRING 1-2-3 37
A walk-around inspection
Inspecting receptacles for problems
SKILLS: Careful observation, basic
electrical knowledge
PROJECT: Inspecting a medium-size
home
EXPERIENCED: 3 hrs.
HANDY: 4 hrs. 0
NOVICE: 5 hrs.
Crack
TOOLS: Flashlight, receptacle analyzer

MATERIALS: Paper and pencil
nee you know what to

look for, most
LOOK FOR DEVICES THAT LACK
a BEWARE OF CRACKED RECEPTACLES
COVER PLATES A crack on the outside may mean that a receptacle's inner
household wiring If the cover plate to a switch or receptacle is missing, replace circuitry is in danger of shorting out. New receptacles are
problems are easy to find and fix. it immediately. Lack of cover plates presents a dangerous inexpensive and easy to replace (page 73).
Make a whole-house inspection by situation: Children might reach into the electrical box, where
checking closets, the attic, the live wires lurk. An adult fumbling for the switch at night could
basement or crawl space, and the receive a shock as well. Replace any missing cover plates.
garage. Globes for light fixtures
will be the only things you have to
remove. Prioritize everything that
needs to be done and Q SAFETY ALERT
immediately take care of all
potentially hazardous problems.
a UPGRADE UNGROUNDED RECEPTACLES

Receptacles with only two slots and no grounding hole are
ungrounded. Homeowners got by with ungrounded wiring
NOT ON SAFE GROUND!
These grounding adapters, while once available, are illegal in
most areas. If the receptacle itself isn't grounded through the
for decades, but grounding provides a necessary level of system, screwing in the adapter will only give you a false sense of
protection. If you can't install grounded receptacles, add security. See pages 11 and 17-18 for information on proper
ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacles (page 74). grounding procedures.
38 WIRING 1-2-3
If there seems to be too much play in the Just because a ground fault circuit interrupter A wet receptacle is a shock hazard, so current codes call for
switch toggle—especially if you hear a pop (GFCI) receptacle is supplying power doesn't ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) in bathrooms, near
when the switch is turned on or o ff-th e device mean it will protect against shock. A GFCI can sinks, and outdoors. See page 74 for instructions on installing
should be replaced (pages 66-68). lose its protective capacity. Test each GFCI by a GFCI. Some areas now have codes that require GFCIs within
pushing the test button. The reset button should one meter of a water source such as a sink on kitchen
pop out. If it doesn't, replace the GFCI receptacle counters or in bathrooms. Check with your local authority to
(page 74). determine if and where you are required to use GFCIs.
0 SAFETY ALERT
Most importantly,
teach children to
respect electricity
and to stay away from
ail receptacles.
AND POLARIZATION
If a receptacle analyzer indicates that a
receptacle is not grounded, shut off the power
and remove the cover plate and the receptacle KID-SAFE RECEPTACLES
(page 73). Compare the wiring with the Although kids sometimes pull them out, the
examples shown on pages 11 and 18. If a wire simplest and cheapest protection is to push a
is loose, reattach it. If a receptacle is not plastic insert (above) into each unused outlet.
polarized, switch wires so that the hot wire is
connected to the brass terminal and the neutral
wire is connected to the silver terminal. If you
are not sure what is wrong, call a pro.
WIRING 1-2-3 39
A walk-around inspection (continued)
Inspecting fixtures and boxes for problems
BUYER'S GUIDE
CHECK YOUR INSURANCE

Some insurance policies have
exclusions stating that the
insurer does not have to pay for
fire damage if the home had

certain defects in its wiring. It's in
your financial interest, as well as
in the interest of safety, to make
sure your electrical system is free
of obvious defects.
J
DETERMINE IF THE BULB WATTAGE If you find
After replacing a lightbulb it's easy to tighten a setscrew MATCHES THE FIXTURE
before the globe is properly nested into place. With a little It's easy to overlook the stickers inside light fixtures that state a problem,
vibration, the globe could crash to the floor. When replacing a the maximum allowable wattage. Bulbs with too-high
globe, unscrew the setscrews a bit more than necessary for wattage will overheat fixtures. At best you'll have to change be sure to
removing the globe. Slip the globe up and make sure its lip is bulbs more often; at worst overheating can cause a fire. If
above all the screws before you tighten them. Check again you need more light, install a new fixture (pages 84-85) with shut off the
after tightening. a higher wattage allowance.
power before
fixing it.
AVOID BARE LIGHTBULBS IN CLOSETS MAKE SPACE IN CROWDED BOXES

Too often light fixtures in closets don't have globes. Sweaters, If a junction box is so crowded that it prevents the cover plate
comforters, cardboard boxes, and other flammables placed from being tightened all the way, install a box extender
too near bare bulbs can catch fire. The best solution is to (page 213), or replace the box with a larger one.
replace your closet light with a fixture that has a globe
covering the bulb. Or install a surface-mounted fluorescent
light (page 102).
40 WIRING 1-2-3
Checking cords and wires for problems

Appliance and tool grounding plugs are installed for your safety. Do not This many-armed monster is awkward and unsafe. Using too many
remove or bend back grounding prongs-you will negate an important appliances at once can overheat the receptacle. Install another receptacle
safety feature. (See page 11 for an explanation of grounding.) Replace a (page 141).
plug that has a bad prong (pages 209-210).
Don't just tape a damaged cord — be sure to replace it!

And never run an extension cord under a carpet or area rug!
WATCH OUT FOR D A M A G ED CORDS TAME THOSE CORDS

A cord with less-than-perfect insulation can cause shock or start a fire. All A tangle of cords near a desk can become unwieldy, and a stray
lamp cords and appliance cords should be free of nicks; you should see no cord poses a tripping danger. Run the cords through a plastic
bare wire. Run your fingers along each unplugged cord. If you feel cracks sleeve or corral them with a removable strap.
or if the cord is brittle, replace it (pages 206-207). Pay special attention to
the cord near the plug, where insulation is most often damaged. Arc Fault
Circuit Interrupters can protect you from this kind of dangerous situation
(page 76).
WIRING 1-2-3 41
Checking cords and wires for problems (continued)
Cable and wire must be firmly held because vibration can cause rubbing— Exposed connections can easily be bumped and loosened, running the risk
which can harm insulation. Metal boxes in particular have sharp edges of a short or fire. That's one of the reasons all wire and cable splices must
that can nick insulation. (Plastic boxes do not usually require clamps. be within an approved electrical box-either a junction box, a switch or
Staple the cable to a stud or joist within 12 inches of the box.) Shut off receptacle box, or a fixture that is designed to be used as an electrical box.
power to the box, unhook the wires, and attach the cable with a cable (To add a box, see pages 114-115 and 136.)
clamp (pages 119 and 121).
SECURE LOOSE CABLE. NEVER USE CABLE AS A CHECK KNOB AND TUBE WIRING
HANGING ROD This old style of wiring is still in use in many homes. As long as the wires
Codes in some areas permit exposed NM (nonmetallic) cable in are completely undisturbed and the wire insulation is in good shape, it can
basements and garages, while other areas require armored cable or metal be used. But the insulation can get brittle and easily damaged. Have a pro
conduit. Whatever type of cable you have, it should be tightly stapled to a evaluate it for safety. If you ever replace or extend this type of wiring, do
surface so it cannot accidentally be pulled out. not use more knob and tube hardware. Instead use standard cable
clamped to electrical boxes (pages 118-124).
42 WIRING 1-2-3
Checking the service entrance
lectricity from the power company is lower than 10 feet above the yard. If the wires
B usually delivered to a house through

two black insulated wires, each of
are rubbing against a tree, the tree should be
trimmed by the power company.
which is hot and carries 120 volts, plus a bareAn underground entrance typically has high-
wire, which serves as the neutral. The wires lead
to the service entrance, which is the place where
voltage wires from the power company running
to a transformer that rests on a concrete pad.

the power company's wires are attached to the Three insulated wires run underground through
house and run to the electric meter. watertight conduit and up the side of the house
If the wires run overhead, they usually to the meter. If you have this setup, be sure to
attach to a service head, which is shaped and contact the power company before you do any
insulated to keep the wires dry. From there the digging in your yard, or you may accidentally
wires enter conduit that runs to the electric nick a live wire.
meter. This conduit may run outside the roof Do not touch a service head or any other
line (as pictured right) or run along the side of outdoor connections. The wires leading up to
the house and through the soffit and roof. This the utility splice are the responsibility of the
may be determined by your local building power company, and the other connections
codes. On an older home, the wires may should be handled only by a professional
attach to a porcelain insulator that is screwed electrician, since the power cannot be shut off.
into the house. Make a visual inspection to see that all the
Prior to the service cap or insulator, you'll pipes and wires are tightly connected and all
see a utility splice on each wire, where the the connections are watertight. If you see
company's wires stop and the house's wires anything suspicious, call the power company.
begin. Overhead wires should not droop down They will make an inspection for free.
Make it watertight
Underground entrance
Inspect your meter to make sure that the conduit and wires are
tightly connected and will not allow moisture in. The power
company will make a free inspection if there is anything of
concern to you.
WIRING 1-2-3 43
Inspecting boxes for problems
e cautious when opening and inspecting a box
Q for potential problems. Kill power to the box at

the service panel before you begin work.
more than one circuit goes to a box, so work carefully. Use

W O R K SMARTER
OPENING A JUNCTION BOX

Remember, however, that there is always the potential that
Junction boxes have flat metal cover plates and are usually
found in basements, garages, or utility rooms. They generally
NSPECTING YOUR HOME
rubber-gripped tools, wear rubber-soled shoes, and do not

hold six or more wires spliced with wire nuts. If possible, trace
touch bare wires. See pages 66 and 73 for instructions on
EXPERIENCED: 5 min. the cables from the junction box back to the service panel.
opening a switch box and a receptacle box.
HANDY: 10 min. Follow the hot wires in the service panel to figure out which
NOVICE: 15 min. circuit or circuits need to be shut off.
It may not be possible for you to shut off the power before
opening a junction box, if, for example, you can't follow the
cable. Also wires from two or more circuits may run through a
TOOLS: Voltage tester or multitester
single junction box. So even if you've shut off power, act as if
MATERIALS: None required
power is still on. Loosen the two screws holding the cover
plate, and ease off the plate. If you need to test for power,
gently pull out wires so that no two splices are closer together
than 1 inch. Unscrew the wire nuts and touch the probes of a
multitester or voltage tester to both neutral (white) and hot
(black or colored) wires (pages 30-31).
LOOK FOR OVER C R O W D IN G CHECK FOR OLD, CRACKED INSULATIO N

Using a rubber-gripped screwdriver, back out the screws If wire insulation is hard and brittle, shut off the circuit and
holding the box cover plate until the cover is loose enough to wrap the damaged insulation with a hot-shrink sleeve (page
remove. Too many wires crammed into too small a box can 213). If all the wiring in your house has brittle insulation, you
lead to shorts. See pages 114-115 to select the right size box. may need to hire an electrician to rewire your house.
44 WIRING 1-2-3
LOOK FOR EXPOSED WALL M ATERIAL C O N FIR M P O L A R IZ A T IO N -W H IT E W IRES WATCH FOR TW O W IRES O N ONE
A R O U N D BOXES GO TO SILVER, BLACK TO BRASS TE R M IN A L
An electrical box should be flush with the If the white wire is connected to a brass Two wires should not be attached to the same
finished wall; if not, it poses a fire hazard. To terminal and the black one is connected to a terminal: Not only do they make a poor
solve this problem, replace the box or install a silver terminal, the receptacle isn't polarized. An connection, they can pop off and short. Remove
box extender (page 213). appliance or light plugged into it may be the two wires and make a pigtail connection
energized even when switched off. Reverse the (page 35).
wires so w hite goes to silver and black goes
to brass. (See page 11.)
Cable leads to
CHECK A R M O R E D CABLE CONNECTORS ENSURE THAT BOXES ARE SECURE CHECK THAT GFCI RECEPTACLES ARE
The cut ends of armored cable are sharp and When electrical boxes are not securely CORRECTLY W IR E D
can slice through wire insulation. Even if no anchored, wiring or connections can be Wires coming from the power source should
damage has been done, install a plastic bushing damaged. If a loose switch or receptacle box is connect to the LINE terminals, and wires leading
(page 121) wherever one is missing. If a wire next to a stud, pull out the device, drill a hole out to other receptacles or fixtures should
has been nicked, cover it with a hot-shrink through the side of the box, and drive a screw connect to the LOAD terminals (page 74). Also
sleeve (page 213). through the box and into the stud. If it is not note that the box is not grounded and should be
near a stud, replace the box with an "old-work" replaced.
box that clamps to the drywall or plaster (pages
132-133).
WIRING 1-2-3 45
Inspecting a service panel
ven if your service
: panel was installed
SKILLS: Understanding a service correctly, substandard
panel (page 19) wiring may have been added later.
PROJECT: Inspecting one service Inspect the entire panel, but pay
panel special attention to new additions.

Look for a melted breaker, burned
wires, or a burned bus bar. Call an
electrician if you see any sign of
EXPERIENCED: 15 min.
scorching or overheating. If you
HANDY: 20 min.
can't read the size of an old wire,
NOVICE: 30 min.
carefully compare the thickness of
its copper with newer wires. If you
see three or more wires attached
TOOLS: Screwdriver, flashlight, to a breaker, call in an electrician:
voltage detector Codes might allow you to make a
A MATERIALS: None required pigtail connection (page 35) inside
a panel.
CHECK WIRE THICKNESS

A #14 wire connected to a 20-amp breaker poses a dangerous situation. A 20-amp
breaker is designed for a #12 wire or larger. A #14 wire can overheat and even melt
insulation or start a fire before the 20-amp breaker trips. Replace the breaker with one
that is 15 amps. Consult a professional electrician if this causes the breaker to trip often.
0 SAFETY ALERT
OPENING A PANEL Troubleshooting your fuse box

Study the safety precautions
on page 20 before opening a panel. CHECK YOUR SERVICE PANEL FOR THESE SIGNS
Switch off the main power in the OF TROUBLE:
box before attempting any work. ■ Rust in the fuse or breaker box may indicate that the box is
The outer cover includes the door. getting wet. This can be very dangerous. Make sure the
Loosen or remove screws at the box is dry at all times.
bottom, sides, and top. Lift out the ■ A 30-amp fuse may indicate that a fuse higher than
cover. You'll probably see the wires recommended was installed because that circuit kept
and their connections to the blowing fuses. Also check 20-amp fuses to make sure they
breakers and the neutral bar. shouldn't be 15-amps. If the wire leading to the fuse is not
Remove the second cover if you #10 or thicker, the fuse should be lower in amperage—15
need to remove a breaker. Don't amps for #14 wire and 20 amps for #12 wire.
touch any wires. ■ Constantly blown fuses are an annoyance—and they
indicate that a circuit is overstressed. See page 48 for tips
on balancing circuit loads.
■ Without an index, or circuit map, it can be challenging to
figure out which circuit to shut off or turn back on. See
opposite page for how to map circuits.
■ In some areas a panel attached to a flammable surface is
considered a fire hazard; nonflammable material is
required between the panel and wood.
■ Open knockouts also present a fire danger. Buy push-in
"goof plugs" designed to fill the open knockouts.
46 WIRING 1-2-3
Mapping circuits
hen making a repair or
new installation,
SKILLS: No special skills required- knowing which circuit
just patience and an ability to controls which outlet speeds the
work methodically job and helps ensure safety. That's

PROJECT: Making a service panel why electrical codes require
index for a medium-size home service panels to have an index
telling which receptacles, lights,
0 TIME TO COMPLETE and appliances are on which
circuit. If your panel has no index,
EXPERIENCED: 2 hrs.
creating one will take some time.
HANDY: 3 hrs.
Prepare by turning on all the lights
NOVICE: 4 hrs.
in the house. Plug a light, fan, or
radio into as many receptacles as
possible, and switch them on. Turn
TOOLS: 2 cellular phones or on the dishwasher and open the
walkie-talkies, circuit finder door of the microwave oven. With
MATERIALS: Masking tape, marker, the whole house switched on, you
Draw a rough sketch of each floor in your house, noting the location of every
pencil, and paper are ready to map.
receptacle, switch, light, and appliance. (You may want to use the symbols shown on
page 110). On the service panel place a numbered piece of tape next to each breaker
or switch.
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DRAW UP THE INDEX

To communicate with your helper, use a pair of walkie-talkies or two Write an index that accounts for all the fixtures, receptacles, and hardwired appliances
cellular phones. Start at the top of the panel. Switch off the circuit and in your home. Attach the index to the inside door panel of the circuit breaker or fuse
have your helper identify the room without power. On the map jot down box. You may be surprised to find that some circuits travel through several rooms. This
the number of the circuit next to each outlet that is turned off. Repeat can be confusing, but it is not dangerous.
these steps for each circuit.
WIRING 1-2-3 47
Avoiding circuit overloads
he total power used by all of a home's light up the wattage of every lightbulb on the circuit. Note the
a fixtures, lamps, appliances, and tools

is called "demand." When demand exceeds the
safe capacity of a circuit, the circuit is overloaded.
Breakers an d fuses
amperage or watt rating for every appliance and tool
plugged into receptacles as well. This information should be
printed somewhere on the appliance. Examples are
illustrated on the opposite page. Some appliances vary
widely in ratings, so check appliances individually. Older
It's usually easy to tell if a circuit is overloaded: The breaker appliances usually have a higher rating.
trips frequently or the fuse keeps blowing. This probably
means that wires are also overheating, posing a threat to Safe capacity
your home. Codes require that appliances and fixtures on a circuit do not
Sometimes the solution is simple: Move one high- exceed "safe capacity," usually defined as the total capacity
amperage appliance (such as a microwave oven or toaster) minus 20 percent. (See the chart, below left.) If the total
to a receptacle on another circuit. If the overloads stop then demand exceeds a circuit's safe capacity and you can't solve
the problem is solved. If not, you may need to install a new the problem by plugging an appliance into a receptacle on
circuit (pages 192-193). another circuit, install a new circuit (pages 192-193). If a
Overloading problems often occur on 120-volt circuits, circuit suddenly becomes touchy-tripping the breaker at the
which serve multiple receptacles and lights. Most 240-volt slightest provocation-check to see if the breaker is
circuits serve only one receptacle or appliance. If a 240-volt functioning correctly (page 26).
circuit regularly overloads, change the wiring.
To better understand troublesome circuits and to prepare Calculating circuit capacity
for adding new electrical lines, the chart below shows how Here are two ways to calculate circuit capacity. First, if you
close the circuits are to being overloaded. know the amperage and voltage of the circuit, you can
determine the total capacity by doing this calculation:
Checking w a tts an d am p s
If the service panel does not have an accurate index, map Amps x Volts = Watts
the house and add an index (page 47). Find a circuit's For example, if you have a 15-amp, 120-volt circuit, total
amperage rating by looking at the circuit breaker or fuse. Add capacity in watts is 15 x 120, or 1800 watts (15 x 120 =
1800). With a 20-amp, 120-volt circuit, total capacity is 2400
watts (20x120).
WORK SMARTER
:SAFE CAPACITY FOR 120-VOLT CIRCUITS Or work the other way around:
circuit. Total the usage to make sure it is
To be sure your circuit won't overload, check Watts * Volts = Amps
within the safe capacity shown here.
individual appliances to determine the watts If all the bulbs in a pendent light fixture add up to 600 watts,
required by each appliance and fixture on a the light is using 5 amps (600 -1 2 0 = 5). If such a fixture
hangs in your kitchen, don't run a toaster (at 6-13 amps) on
AMPS TOTAL CAPACITY SAFE CAPACITY
the same 15-amp circuit or you might overload the circuit.
15A 1800 watts 1440 w a t t s / 12 amps Some electricians use this general rule: Allow 100 watts
for each amp. That means allowing no more than 1500 watts
20A 2400 watts 1920 w a t t s / 16 amps
on a 15-amp circuit and no more than 2000 watts on a 20-
25A 3000 watts 2400 watts / 20 amps amp circuit.
30A 3600 watts 2880 watts / 24 amps
48 WIRING 1-2-3
Wattage and amperage ratings
T hese ra tin g s a re e x a m p le s only. Check a p p lia n c es in d iv id u a lly .
0 SAFETY ALERT
fVlodel/IVIodeio 3 6 - 2 2 0 T y p e in
10" Compound Miter Saw ALLOW FOR MOTOR SURGE
l)STED f o r p a r t s o r s e r v ic e Sierra Compuesta de Ingietes de 254 mm
216V ALW AYS G IV E T H E M O D E L During the first few seconds a motor
NUMBER. VOLTS/VOLTIOS: 120
TVRCVR is started, it uses significantly more
MFG. DATE / SERIAL NO.

PRO DUC T IS C E R T IF IE D BY T H E M A N U F A C T U R E R
FECMA DE FABRICACION/NO. DESERIE
TO C O M PLY W IT H D H H S R U L E S 2 1 C F R power than during normal
SU B C H A PTER J A P P L IC A B L E AT T H E D A T E O F WHEN SERVICING CUANQO REALICE E l SER-
M A NUFA CTURE . ____________
DOUBLE INSULATED USE ONLY IDENTICAL ViCIO. USE UNICAMENTE operation. A circuit supplying
AISLACION DOBLE REPLACEMENT PARTS REPUESTOSIDENTICOS
USE ONLY SAW BLADES RECOMMENDED

appliances with motors—a
AC 120V 60Hz 1.0AMPS WAX FOR 4980 RPM WITH % " ARBOR
UT1UCE SOLO H0JAS BE SIERRA
LISTED
37J2
refrigerator, freezer, air-conditioner,
AVERAGE POWER 58 WATTS ’t V'
RECOMENQAOAS PARA 49€© RPM
s** ntr -tf C St
nAM
or fan, for instance—needs extra
j,MTrV W m r'OMJPABHU'AO'0 EN fA U lte PAHA
capacity to handle occasional power
MADE IN S IN G A P O R E >x nh i. a t ,
surges. Window air-conditioners and
refrigerators should probably be
plugged into receptacles that have
TELEVISION CIRCULAR SAW
their own circuits.
50-300 watts/0.4-2.5 amps 1200 watts/15amps
REAL WORLD
WATT CHEER! X
It's not difficult to overload a circuit
and cause it to blow, especially
during the holidays when
decorative lights are hung and
additional guests are in the house.
Be mindful of the type of wattage
the strings of lights require and
make sure that the circuit can
handle the wattage. Consider
installing an outdoor circuit just for
REFRIGERATOR MICROWAVE OVEN
decorative lights.
700-1200 watts/5.8-10 amps 900-1500 watts/7.5-12.5 amps
IRON TOASTER
1000-1200 watts/8.3-10 amps 800-1600 watts/6.6-13.3 amps
WIRING 1-2-3 49
Aluminum wiring
hen copper prices increased in the early 1970s,
builders in many areas switched to aluminum
wire. Homeowners soon discovered, however,
that aluminum posed a fire hazard, especially when
connected to brass or copper terminals or wires. By the time
aluminum wire was banned, thousands of homes had been

wired. Because aluminum expands and contracts over time,
it can loosen from terminals, causing faults. Also, where
aluminum is attached to brass or copper, it oxidizes,
degrading the connection.
Consider replacing aluminum wires with copper if the
wires run through conduit or Greenfield. You (or an
electrician) can install new wires by attaching them to the CHECK WIRING
old wires and pulling them through the conduit (page 123). Aluminum wire is marked "AL." The stripped wire is a dull silver color.
However, if the aluminum is encased in NM or armored Aluminum is a soft metal and strains easily. Look for cracks in the
cable, replacing it will be difficult and costly. bare wire.
P reven tive m ain te n a n c e fo r

a lu m in u m w irin g
To check the condition of your aluminum wiring, you'll need
to systematically open every switch box, receptacle box,
fixture, hardwired appliance, and junction box in your home.
Shut off power to a circuit and open its boxes. If a
switch or receptacle has CO/ALR written on it (center right), it
is safe to connect aluminum wires to it. If the device is a
standard receptacle, replace it with a CO/ALR device. (Buy
them at electrical supply stores if your home centers do not
carry them.) How to replace devices is described on pages
66-73.
Or use a more time-consuming but less costly method CHECK DEVICES
(bottom right): Disconnect an aluminum wire from its All switches and receptacles should have CO/ALR stamped on them. If not,
terminal, snip off the bare wire ends, restrip the wire, and replace them with a CO/ALR device. Check every switch and receptacle.
connect it to a short pigtail made of copper. Squirt antioxidant
onto the wire ends. Then twist the wires together and attach
an Al/Cu wire nut, which is made for this purpose. Connect
the copper pigtail to the standard switch or receptacle.
Make sure that throughout the house all aluminum-to-
copper or aluminum-to-brass connections are brushed clean
of corrosion (look for a powdery white coating, especially on
devices near damp areas); coat the connections with
antioxidant. Check each device, backing off the terminal
screws, adding the antioxidant, and firmly retightening the
screws. Aluminum breaks easily. If a wire end is cracked, snip
it off and restrip. Never use the holes on the back of the
receptacle for back wiring if you have aluminum wiring.
Check all connections to terminals annually, and tighten APPLY ANTIOXIDANT
them as needed. To keep the aluminum from developing a nonconductive layer of oxidant,
especially where aluminum is joined to copper, snip off bare wire ends,
restrip, and coat the wires with antioxidant. Use Al/Cu wire nuts, and
attach to copper pigtails.
50 WIRING 1-2-3
Planning lighting
Is l
CHOOSING CEILING FIXTURES
B yp
H K
SELECTING BULBS AND TUBES
ajjyyp H y p IR y p
PLANNING KITCHEN LIGHTING
l KB K E l BES Bl BEQ lp EE3 pl|

LIGHTING A BATHROOM
LIGHTING LIVING AREAS
9
PLANNING FOR RECESSED LIGHTING
ISC#*£ ®s\W
PLANNING SECURITY LIGHTING
LIGHTING YOUR YARD
DECK AND PATIO LIGHTING
efore you choose light fixtures, draw up a lighting plan. Keep in mind
that lighting does more than just illuminate. Lighting also:
■ Enhances activities. Reading, food preparation-even cleaning—
becomes easier and more pleasurable when the lighting is ample but not glaring.
■ Highlights decorative features. By changing or redirecting lights, you can
emphasize artwork, favorite pieces of furniture, or other decorative features. You can
even position lights to make a room seem larger. Outdoor lighting can dramatize
built-ins and plantings.
■ Sets a mood. By building versatility into a room with a variety of fixtures and
dimmer switches, you can easily adjust the lighting to suit the occasion.
■ Provides safety. Well-placed lights help make stairs and hallways safer; outdoors,
lighting can even discourage intruders.
WIRING 1-2-3 51
Choosing
ceiling
4
fixtures
he broad range of overhead fixtures can be roughly divided
into ones with eye-catching decorative features (like the ones
PLANNING LIGHTING
shown on this page) and ones that are hardly noticeable but
provide general illumination (like the flush ceiling fixtures shown on the
opposite page). Track lights fall in between. All come in a wide variety of
styles. Here are the basic types and features to choose from. Pendent lantern
P e n d en t lights
Lights that hang down from the ceiling are called pendants. Use them
for general lighting, to illuminate a dining room table, or to light up
a work surface. Pendant
A chandelier or other type of pendant usually can't
illuminate a large room on its own. That's because a
chandelier often hangs at eye level and would
produce an unpleasant glare if it were bright
enough to light an entire room.
■ Pendent shades. Use a pendent shade to focus light on a

specific space, such as a small table, a countertop, or a narrow work
area. A pendent light with a glass shade will provide general lighting as
well as directed light. A metal shade focuses light more directly. Older
styles of pendent lights hang by decorative brass chains, with a neutral-
color lamp cord running through the chain. Newer fixtures use a plain
chrome-color wire for support, with the cord running alongside.
■ Pendent lanterns. These lights resemble the old glass lanterns that
protected candles from wind. Use them in narrow areas like foyers and
stairways. Hang these at least 6 \ feet from the ground so that people
Chandelier
can walk under them. Center a pendent lantern width-wise in a narrow
room. If it is near a large window, place it so it will look centered from
the outside.
■ Chandeliers. Originally designed as candleholders, chandeliers usually
have five or more lightbulbs. Look for a model that is easy to dean;
complex designs can be difficult to dust. Keep it in scale—a chandelier
that is too small will appear to be dwarfed by the room. When wide for every foot of room w idth-for example, use a 20-inch-wide
choosing a unit to hang over a dining room table, select one that is light in a 10-foot-wide room.
about 12 inches narrower than the table. If it is any wider, people may Get the height right. A common mistake is to hang a chandelier too
bump their heads on it when they stand up from the table. In an low. A chandelier should hang about 30 inches above a tabletop. The
entryway maintain proportion by installing a chandelier that is 2 inches length of the chain will depend on your ceiling height.
52 WIRING 1-2-3
Track ceiling fixtures
PLANNING LIGHTING
CHOOSING TRACK LIGHTS
A single track lighting system can combine general halogen track lights such as a low-voltage bell or special dimmer switch; a standard dimmer will
lighting and accent lighting. When choosing a lamp low-voltage gimbal ring produce a more intense, damage the lamps.) A track that partially encircles a
make sure it can handle the lightbulb of your choice less broad area of light. They have their own room at a distance of 6 feet or so from the walls
and that it will fit onto your track. Incandescent transformer, so they can attach to a standard-voltage will disperse light more effectively than a single
lamps such as a round-back cylinder or a gimbal track. (However, these low-voltage lights require a track running through the middle of the room.
ring produce a broad, intense beam. Low-voltage
Flush ceiling fixtures

Halogen
Fluorescent flush-m ount
Semiflush-mount
T
CHOOSING FLUSH FIXTURES
A single flush fixture in the middle of the ceiling is light). They hug the ceiling, consistently distributing upward like a cove light, evenly illuminating a
the most common way to light a room. These light. Newer fluorescent ceiling fixtures with room. Halogens offer more intense light. Two- or
fixtures usually produce enough light to adequately electronic ballasts look like incandescents, save three-head spotlights provide some of track
illuminate a 12x12-foot room with an 8-foot ceiling energy, and have tubes that rarely bum out. A lighting's versatility. Point the lights horizontally for
or a 16x16-foot room with a 10-foot ceiling (the semiflush fixture hangs down a foot or so from the general lighting, or angle them downward to
higher the fixture, the broader the spread of its ceiling. It diffuses light through the globe as well as highlight certain areas of the room.
WIRING 1-2-3 53
Selecting bulbs and tubes
he color of a lightbulb or a light fixture globe or
shade significantly affects the mood of a room. BUYER'S GUIDE
Lighting that is slightly red or yellow is
considered "warm ," while blue-tinged light is "cool." NEW LIGHT ON FLUORESCENTS
Incandescent bulbs produce warm light; many fluorescents Fluorescent lighting is economical
4 are cool-if not downright cold. but often harsh and cold. For a
Choose the color of your home's lighting according to the slightly higher cost, you can buy
color of your furnishings. If you have pure white walls or tubes that deliver light similar to
cabinetry, warm lighting will make them beige. Cool light that of an afternoon sun. The lower
PLANNING LIGHTING
directed at brownish natural wood may give it a green tinge. the Kelvin temperature of a tube,
Fortunately, whether you have a fluorescent or an the warmer its light will be. A tube
incandescent fixture, you can switch from cool to warm light, marked "3000K," for example,
or vice versa, by changing the bulbs or tubes. delivers warm color, while a
"5000K" tube will make a room
feel cool. "Full-spectrum" or
"wide-spectrum" tubes
have low Kelvin ratings.
Enhanced spectrum
\
Sodium bulb
Incandescents: ---------- Incandescent
regular base flood
Halogen flood
60 -w att halogen:
regular base
Incandescents: Compact fluorescent

candelabra base 12-w att halogen:
lights (CFLs)
6-4 base
LIGHTBULB OPTIONS
■ Incandescent bulbs are the most common but ■ Halogen bulbs generally last longer and are number on the stamped label indicates the
have comparatively short lives and are not very more efficient than incandescents, but they burn degree of the beam spread.
energy-efficient. hot. Halogens come in many styles, so make sure ■ HID (High-Intensity Discharge) lamps such as
■ Compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) that screw the bulb base fits in your fixture. sodium, metal halide, and mercury vapor
into incandescent sockets are by far the most ■ Reflector bulbs direct either a wide or narrow produce very bright, economical light outdoors.
efficient choice to save money in the long run. beam of light, depending on the bulb. A "spot" ■ Enhanced spectrum bulbs are tinted blue for a
Choose from among several shapes and bulb projects a flashlight-like beam. A "flood" more vivid and natural-feeling light.
degrees of warmth. bulb illuminates a wider area. The second
54 WIRING 1-2-3
Planning kitchen lighting
he right lighting plan can make your kitchen more cheerful daylight hours, but they need help in the evening or in gloomy
a and inviting, increase the safety of food preparation, and

highlight cabinetry and other design features. As you plan
remember that surfaces like ceramic tiles and semigloss paint reflect ■
This can be beneficial, but in the wrong place they can bounce bright light
weather. A dimmer switch or two on your ambient lighting will make it
easier to strike the right balance.
Task lights under kitchen cabinets or in other strategic areas illuminate
light.
common kitchen tasks such as food preparation and dishwashing. A
into your eyes. range hood with a light eases stove-top cooking as it vents odors. 4
■ Ambient lighting produces a daylight effect. Flush ceiling fixtures or ■ In-between lights illuminate kitchen work spaces while providing
track lights spread light more evenly than recessed can lights or generous amounts of ambient light. These lights include recessed can
pendants. Cove lighting creates ambient light originating from several lights over a sink, pendent fixtures above an eating area, and track
PLANNING LIGHTING
directions. Windows and skylights are great sources of light during lights in a semicircle near cabinetry.
In-betw een lights
WIRING 1-2-3 55
Planning kitchen lighting (continued)
Track lighting
Pendent task
lighting (
— i
k k tl i - ^
T S 3 T .. |
Fluorescent light
over work area
LIGHTING YOUR EATING AND PREP AREAS halogen lights over work surfaces. If there are no not practical above a sink because they hang
Ensure that ambient lighting is positioned so that it cabinets above, use track lighting, sconces, recessed down too low.
amply illuminates work areas. To supplement can lights in the ceiling, or halogen trapeze lights. Strings of rope lights placed along the kickplate
ambient light, install fluorescent or undercabinet Pendent lights work well for task lighting but are add an accent and highlight your flooring.
I—
OO
cO
I1
1
SHAPING UP WITH TRACK LIGHTING shiny or light in color. The lights can cast a shadow tracks about 3 feet out from the wall and 2 feet out
Many kitchens feature a single strip of track lighting over a person preparing food at the countertop, from the wall cabinets. The lamps will then shine
running through the center of the ceiling. This kind contributing to poor visibility. down over the shoulders of people working at
of light provides adequate illumination but can Instead of installing a single strip of track counters, or toward the center of the ro o m -
sometimes bounce off wall cabinets and produce an lighting along the ceiling, wrap the tracks around providing both task lighting and ambient light.
uncomfortable glare—especially if the cabinets are the room in an "H " or a "U " pattern. Install the
56 WIRING 1-2-3
GHTING
LIGHTING COUNTERTOPS USING COVE LIGHTING
Place fluorescent or halogen undercabinet lights so they will illuminate the This is an easy and inexpensive way to add an elegant lighting touch to a
countertop but not shine in a person's eyes. If the light fixtures are chunky, kitchen. Fluorescent fixtures placed on the top of a wall cabinet wash the wall
consider installing a 2-inch strip of wood along the underside of the cabinet to and ceiling in a glow that disperses even light throughout the kitchen.
shield the glare.
Lighting for healthy plants

SUPPLEMENTING NATURAL LIGHT
Nothing brightens a kitchen window like potted flowers or
herbs. Most plants need at least 4 hours of direct sunlight a
day. Unless your window provides this kind of exposure, you
may need to supplement your room's natural light with
artificial rays. Install incandescent or fluorescent bulbs or
tubes that are labeled full- or wide-spectrum. As
supplements to filtered window light, these lights need to be
on only for several hours a day. Keep them a foot or more
away from your plants to avoid drying out the leaves.
If your room provides little sunlight or none at all, you
will have to install supplemental lighting at close range. To
grow healthy plants focus these lights on your plants and
leave them on for all or most of the day.
WIRING 1-2-3 57
Lighting a bathroom
n average-size bathroom needs a ceiling A horizontal strip of decorative lightbulbs above the
fan/light in the center of the main room, a mirror provides lots of light but may shine in your eyes.
moisture-proof ceiling light over the A fluorescent fixture with a lens provides more even light
shower/bath, and lights over the sink. but may lack warmth. Sconce lights placed on either side
■ Ambient lighting is typically provided by an overhead light of the mirror are the best source for lighting your face for
combined with a vent fan. Make sure the fan's blower is shaving or applying makeup. When planning circuits don't
powerful enough to adequately vent your bathroom forget to install a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI)
(pages 161-163). For a little more money, you can also receptacle near the sink.
purchase a low-wattage night-light or a fan-forced heater ■ Shower lighting supplements what little light comes
PLANN
unit. Some people prefer a heat lamp near the tub or through the shower curtain or glass door. Consider
shower for additional heat while drying off after bathing. installing a recessed canister light with a watertight lens
■ Bathroom mirror lighting deserves careful thought. placed directly above the shower.
LIGHTING UP YOUR BATHROOM nighttime and early-morning use, the shower, in moisture-resistant globed lights that won't shine in
The darker the color of your bathroom walls and particular, might need one or two moisture-proof your eyes. Overhead install a single fixture that
fixtures, the more light you need. Light from a canister lights. (Codes limit them to 60 watts each if efficiently and stylishly combines a light, exhaust
window may be sufficient for daytime use. But for the shower is enclosed.) Above the sink install fan, and perhaps a night-light and a heater.
58 WIRING 1-2-3
Lighting living areas
iving rooms, dining rooms, great-rooms, and ■ Highlight a piece of art or cabinetry or accentuate wall
D large bedrooms all benefit from both ambient

and task lighting. Rather than installing a single
room. "Layering" several types of lights makes a room more

comforting and inviting. The goal is flexibility, so you can set
texture with lights to give the room warmth and interest.
■ Put at least one of the components on a dimmer switch,
and install several lights that are optional, but not
lighting component, think in terms of the total effect of the
necessary. Don't be afraid to install too many lights; you
don't have to have all of them on at the same time.
a variety of moods by brightening or dimming the entire ■ Install an in-between light such as a dining-area 4
room or part of the room. chandelier to brighten the dinner table and provide some
ambient light.
■ Modern codes require AFCI circuit breakers for all circuits
PLANNING LIGHTING
supplying plug outlets in bedrooms(see page 76).
Fisheye spot Am bient lighting on

dim m er switch
Accent lights
Lamp on switched
receptacle
SHOWING OFF A GREAT-ROOM WITH and a centrally located chandelier over the dining shelves. The task light on the piano is on an
GREAT LIGHTING table. A recessed light with fisheye trim spotlights a unswitched receptacle.
The lighting plan for this large family room includes wall painting. The table lamp and floor lamp are
a grid of recessed canister lights for general lighting controlled by wall switches. Accent lights brighten
WIRING 1-2-3 59
Lighting living areas (continued)
PLANNING LIGHTING
LIGHTING UP CABINETS CHOOSING A BEDSIDE LIGHT

Achieve a stunning effect with lights placed inside glass-doored cabinets. If the For bedtime reading a swivel light that mounts on a wall has great advantages
shelves are also glass, the light will glimmer as it filters down. Use small over a table lamp. You can point the light directly at your book, and it won't take
fluorescent fixtures-which stay cool-and control them with a special up space on the end table.
fluorescent dimmer switch.
Lighting room by room

Provide very bright light in areas used for work and study. In rooms designed for
entertaining, less light is called for.
■ Eating/Dining areas. A bright pendent light is appropriate for a breakfast
nook or other informal eating area, but a table used for fine dining should
have indirect, subtle light. Point recessed or track lights away from the table.
Position a chandelier so it does not shine in diners' eyes.
■ Hallways and stairways. These areas require enough light so people won't
trip. You may need lights at the bottom and top of a stairway. A 75-watt
ceiling fixture every 12 feet is sufficient for a hallway. Increase the wattage if
elderly people live in your home. Wall sconces work well in these areas.
■ Study. A single reading lamp can create an uncomfortable glare on book
pages. Provide one or two additional sources of light, such as ample
overhead lighting or a second lamp.
■ Work rooms/hobby areas. Start with overhead lighting that distributes light
evenly throughout the room. Then add nonglare lights above work surfaces
and flexible lamps for specific tasks.
INSTALLING SCONCE LIGHTING

Lights that mount on the wall can make a room feel larger and a hallway wider.
Use sconces for accents rather than for ambient lighting. Place low-wattage
bulbs in them, unless you want to highlight the wall above.
60 WIRING 1-2-3
Planning for recessed lighting
ecessed canister lights vary in intensity and Special techniques
O angle. The higher your ceiling the more floor

space a light will illuminate. In general, recessed
In addition to providing general lighting, recessed can lights
enhance decorating strategies with:
cans should be 6 feet from each other. Of course, most■rooms
are not sized to accommodate this, so you'll have to adjust
Wall washing. To light up a large wall area, install cans
with wall-wash trims that are 24 to 30 inches apart, and
your calculations. In the example below most of the lights the same distance from the wall. 4
are 5 feet apart. Make a similar plan for your own ■ Accent lighting. Spotlight a painting, fireplace mantle, or
installation, experimenting with several configurations. Take other feature with a can that has an eyeball trim.
your plans to your home center for advice. Place it 18 to 24 inches from the wall, centered on
PLANNING LIGHTING
Once you start installing can lights, you'll find that many the object.
have to be moved several inches from their ideal locations in ■ Grazing. To dramatize an unusual vertical surface, such as
order to avoid hitting joists (ceiling framing). Fortunately, this a fireplace or a textured wall, place cans 6 to 12 inches
will not make a big difference in the overall effect. from the wall and 12 to 18 inches apart. Wire them with a
separate dimmer switch.
CONCENTRIC CIRCLES OF LIGHT

On graph paper make a scale drawing of your room. To get a general idea of the
distribution of light, use a compass to draw circles that are scaled to about 5 feet
in radius (10 feet in diameter). In this example, the center of the room will get
more light than the perimeter-which is usually desirable. Generally figure that a
65-watt floodlight in a room with an 8-foot ceiling will light up a circle that is 8
feet in diameter; if the ceiling is 10 feet high, it will illuminate a 10-foot circle.
WIRING 1-2-3 61
Planning security lighting
utdoor lighting may be your home's most ■ Place light posts or path lights along walkways. Control
O important security feature. It may even deter

intruders more effectively than additional door
locks or an alarm system.
■ Keep areas brightly lit so there are no dark pathways.
Ideally two or more lights should be pointed at a potential
bright lights with motion sensors and low-voltage lights
with a timer or photocell so they stay on all night.
■ Make it difficult to extinguish lights. Casual trespassers will
usually be deterred by bright lights, but a professional
thief will look for ways to shut off your security lights.
intruder who approaches your home. Seven feet may be an attractive height for placing porch
■ Install two light fixtures at each door of entry—or at least lights, but an intruder can easily reach that high. Place
one fixture equipped with two bulbs in case one bulb outdoor lights 9 feet or more above the ground.
PLANNING LIGHTING
burns out. Control these lights with motion sensors or ■ Add standard-voltage light posts to fortify your property.
timers (page 171) rather than an inside switch. Low-voltage path lighting can be easily disconnected.
■ Install spotlights controlled by a motion sensor over the ■ Install bright lights on motion-sensor switches indoors
garage door and under the eaves. These discourage behind a sliding glass door or large window. These will
intruders and make it easier to carry in the groceries surprise intruders and alert you as well.
BRIGHT AND SECURE function. Outside entry a large window makes it appear as if the occupants
This grouping of lights makes intruders lights, spots, eave lights, and light posts allow no are home even when they're not. For ease of use
uncomfortable, but it appears decorative enough not place to hide. A timer-controlled indoor light behind control the light with timers or motion sensors.
62 WIRING 1-2-3
Lighting your yard
ighting can emphasize your yard's best features. ■ Incorporate holiday lights. Outdoor holiday lights—
a Begin by making a sketch of your property,

including plantings, pathways, and outdoor
whether large and colorful or tiny white pinpricks—can be
used year-round. Hang them high and fire them up for a
structures. Spend an evening or two with a work light andparty to add a festive atmosphere.
extension cord to try out some ideas. Vary the positioning. m Use both standard-voltage and low-voltage lights. Keep
Outdoor lights may be suspended, mounted on poles, some standard-voltage lights around for times when you 4
installed on the side of a deck or house, or placed under want to see clearly at night, but give yourself the option
foliage. Consider these other options: of using low-voltage lighting as well.
■ Try outdoor-rated rope lights. Some rope lights (page 64) ■ Experiment with color. Use outdoor lenses and lightbulbs
PLANNING LIGHTING
are designed for exterior use. Hang them loosely from in various colors to set just the right mood. The results can
post to post on a railing, stretch them taut along be surprising, so take the time to experiment. Blue light
a fascia board, or spiral-wrap them—barber-shop style— resembles the cast of a full moon's light. Green light cast on
around a pole or post. a tree or shrub can give foliage a special luminescence.
Reds, oranges, and yellows can evoke a warm, inviting feel.
LIGHTS THAT EMPHASIZE FOLIAGE or bulbs are used. A tree can appear lit from within highlight the colors of petals. Brick lighting defines
Aim illumination toward attractive features of your by an in-ground spotlight shining upward. the borders of a patio or driveway. All these
yard, such as trees and plantings. Be sure these Romanticize in-ground lights by dropping a few elements can add to your home's security (opposite
lights don't create an unpleasant glare for passersby. leaves on top of them. Lights that shine through page) while they beautify your lot.
Bright under-eave lights are less harsh if blue lenses flowering plants cast interesting shadows and
WIRING 1-2-3 63
Deck and patio lighting
ou'll find many light fixtures designed specifically or conduit in trenches (pages 174-176), hide it under decking
for decks and patios at your home center. or railing pieces, or drill long holes through posts and fish it
Position these lights to shine up from a patio through (page 177). Plan these installations to complement
surface, point down at a deck or stair treads, or sit atop posts security lighting (page 62).
and provide general illumination. The simplest way to add
outdoor lighting is to plug in a string of low-voltage lights. Rope lights
However, keep in mind that these lights look temporary and Exterior-grade rope lights can be strung in fanciful patterns or
are easily damaged. in orderly straight lines. Unless you use a lot of them, they
will be more decorative than bright. Plug them directly into a
PLANNING LIGHTING
1 2 0 -v o lt fixtures receptacle, or use an extension cord approved for outdoor

A flexible lighting system should combine low-voltage lights use. Fasten them to wood posts and railings with galvanized
with standard 120-volt fixtures. Run standard-voltage cable fence staples.
LIGHTING TO SUIT EVERY MOOD AND PURPOSE

Treat outdoor diners to the same even lighting you illuminate steps to help reduce the possibility of
would expect them to enjoy inside. Point several tripping. Post lights offer gentle highlights while
eave lights at the table, positioning them as high as other lights give emphasis to specific features, such
possible. Rope lights are great as accents and to as plantings and flowers.
64 WIRING 1-2-3
Switches and
receptacles
Iffl IIBI llffl 1811 llfl Ilf! C9| itffl C9| Ifill IB3| IP3I
REPLACING A SWITCH
REPLACING A THREE-WAY SWITCH
REPLACING A DIMMER SWITCH
INSTALLING SPECIAL SWITCHES
REPLACING A RECEPTACLE
ADDING GFCI PROTECTION
INSTALLING A GFCI BREAKER
INSTALLING AFCI
witches and receptacles (both of which are referred to as TESTING SWITCHES
S "devices") are the workhorses of your electrical system, often
getting used thousands of times per year. Usually they are
remarkably reliable, and when one does wear out, replacing it is an easy task.
CHECKING 240-VOLT RECEPTACLES
This chapter will show you how to replace standard devices and how to upgrade for
GROUNDING RECEPTACLES
special purposes. The two most common upgrades are a dimmer switch, which allows
you to control the level of light, and a GFCI receptacle, which provides added protection
against the possibility of shock. Many other types of special-duty switches are available ADDING SURGE PROTECTION
to enhance your control over lighting. All these devices are nearly as easy to install as a
standard switch or receptacle.
This chapter also covers GFCI and AFCI circuit breakers, which protect all the outlets
on a circuit in two different ways. Be sure to follow local codes and install GFCI and AFCI
circuit breakers where required. WIRING 1-2-3 65

Replacing a switch
f your switch pops when you turn it on, if it
SKILLS: Stripping wire and attaching

wire to a terminal
PROJECT: Replacing a standard wall
switch
O seems loose, or if your light fixture doesn't
switch on even with a new bulb, it's time to
replace the switch. Switches are easy and quick to install. To
test a switch, see pages 77-78. Switch toggle
Tester shouldn't
light up
Choosing a re p lac em e n t
If the switch has two wires connected to it (it might also
have a ground wire) and a toggle marked ON and OFF, it is a
single-pole switch-the most common type. If three wires
SWITCHES AND RECEPTACLES
HANDY: 25 min.
connect to it (not counting the ground wire), it is a three-way
NOVICE: 45 min.
switch (page 16).
You may choose to replace your switch with a dimmer. If
so, it's not necessary to change the wiring entering the box, Grounded box
TOOLS: Tester, wire stripper, lineman's but you do have to connect wires to leads with wire nuts
pliers, longnose pliers, side-cutting rather than screw wires to terminals (page 69).
pliers, screwdriver
MATERIALS: New switch, electrician's
tape, wire nuts
TEST FOR POWER
At the service panel, shut off power to the circuit
supplying the switch. Remove the two screws above and
below the switch toggle, and pull off the cover plate. (If it is
painted over, first score around it with a utility knife.) Test
with a 4-level voltage tester to make sure that power is off.
BUYER'S GUIDE
X
STURDY DEVICES FOR
HEAVY USE
If a switch is used constantly, pay
a little extra for a device labeled
"commercial" or "spec-rated."
Grounding screw
It has stronger contacts and
is sturdier.
INSPECT THE WIRING TRIM DAMAGED WIRE

Remove the two screws holding the switch to the box. Unscrew the terminal screws on the switch about \ inch
Gently pry out the switch. Pull on the wires to ensure that (stop when they get hard to turn), and remove the wires.
they're firmly connected to the terminals. If a wire is loose or If a stripped wire end appears nicked or twisted, snip off
broken, you've probably found the problem. the damage.
66 WIRING 1-2-3
REAL WORLD
THE FIRST T IM E 'R O U N D

Replacing a switch isn't
necessarily a no-brainer. If a wire
loses connection with the switch
terminal, the fixture will not
work. When replacing a switch
the wires should be looped
clockwise around the terminals.
Using wire strippers, strip about 3/4 inch of insulation from the Form a question mark at the end of each wire, using the tip
end of any wires that you snipped (pages 32-33). If you strip of wire strippers (pages 34-35) or longnose pliers. Make the
a white wire that has been painted black or marked with loop tight enough so that it just fits around the shank of the
black tape, remark it. terminal screw.
Even if your local codes don't require that

a switch or box be grounded, do it anyway,
A little extra protection can't hurt.
Some electricians wrap the switch with

electrician's tape so that all terminals and bare
On new switches the terminals are screwed down tight. Gently push the wires back into the box as
wires are covered providing extra protection
Unscrew each until it gets hard to turn. Slip a looped wire end you push the switch back into position. Aim the
from accidental grounding and ensuring the
under the screw head, with the end of the loop pointing mounting screws at the screw holes. Tighten
wires won't come off the terminal screws.
clockwise. Squeeze the wire end tight around the terminal the screws and check that the switch is plumb
However, before doing this make sure your local
with longnose pliers (page 35) or the tip of wire strippers. (straight up and down). The elongated holes
codes allow it and the electrical inspector will
Tighten the screw. allow for adjustments. Replace the cover plate,
approve it. Many inspectors will not approve a
restore power, and try the switch.
wrapped switch because they cannot see if the
wires are properly attached to the switch.
WIRING 1-2-3 67
Replacing a three-way switch
hree-way switches work in pairs to control a light
from two locations-handy for controlling a light
SKILLS: Stripping wire, connecting from the top and the bottom of stairways, or
wire to terminals from either end of hallways. The toggle isn't marked OFF and
PROJECT: Replacing a single three- ON. Either up or down can be ON depending on the position
way switch of the toggle of the other three-way. (For more on three-way
m 'MEM
switches, see pages 148-150.)
Before you begin, shut off power to the circuit
(page 6). Disconnect wires from terminals, and restrip any
damaged wires (page 32). Most of the steps for replacing a
HANDY: 40 min.
three-way switch are the same as for a single-pole switch.
NOVICE: 1 hr.
But with three-ways be sure to mark the wires before you
remove the old device.
TOOLS: Tester, wire strippers,

Shut off power, remove the cover plate, and test to make
lineman's pliers, longnose pliers,
sure there is no power in the box. Label the common wire
side-cutting pliers, screwdriver
with a piece of masking tape. The common terminal (page
MATERIALS: New switch, electrician's
149) is colored differently from the others (it's not the green
tape, wire nuts
ground screw) and may be marked "common" on the
switch body.
BUYER'S GUIDE
THREE-WAY DIMMER
Replace only one of your paired
three-way switches with a dimmer:
Two dimmers won't work. The
remaining switch requires a
standard three-way toggle.
(Fluorescent fixtures also require
special dimmers.)
O P TIO N B: W IR IN G TW O CABLES
When only one cable enters the box, it will have three wires If two cables enter the box, one cable will have two wires
plus a ground. Identify the hot wire using a voltage detector and the other will have three wires (plus ground wires). But
(page 31), or by touching one prong of a voltage tester to a despite all the extra wires, you'll find only three wire ends.
ground and the other to each wire in turn. Attach the hot Proceed just as you would for a one-cable installation (left).
wire to the common terminal, which is a different color.
Attach the other two wires to the traveler terminals. Connect
the grounds.
68 WIRING 1-2-3
Replacing a dimmer switch
SKILLS: Stripping, splicing wire Wire lead
PROJECT: Connecting one dimmer
switch
HANDY: 25 min.
NOVICE: 45 min.
TOOLS: Screwdriver, side-cutting

pliers, strippers
MATERIALS: Dimmer switch, wire
nuts, electrician's tape Shut off power at the service panel. Pull off the rotary knob A dimmer has wire leads instead of terminals. Remove the
with firm outward pressure. Underneath is a standard switch wire nuts and test for power by touching the probes of the
cover plate. Remove the cover plate. Remove the mounting tester to both wires, or to either wire and the metal box, or
screws and carefully pull out the switch body. to one wire and the ground wire. If power is detected, shut
off the correct circuit in the service panel. (To test for
continuity, see page 30.)
ake sure the new

dimmer switch is rated
for the total wattage
of the fixture. A chandelier with
eight 100-watt bulbs is too much
for a 600-watt dimmer to handle.
Don't use a standard dimmer for a
fan, or you will burn out the motor.
Install no more than one three-
way dimmer; the other switch
must be a three-way toggle. You
can buy rotary dimmers (the least
expensive), dimmers that look like
standard switches, or models with
a separate ON-OFF switch so the
dimmer will turn on at the level of
your choice. OPTION B: INSTALLING A THREE-WAY DIMMER
A STANDARD DIMMER If you replace a three-way dimmer, tag the existing lead
Attach the ground wire if there is one. Strips inch of wires to connect the new dimmer in the same way as the
insulation from each solid house wire and 1 inch from each old dimmer. If only one cable enters the box, attach the black
stranded dimmer lead. Wrap a lead around a wire with your wire to the common terminal and the other two wires to the
fingers so that the lead protrudes past the wire about \ inch. traveler terminals. If you replace a three-way toggle switch
Slip on a wire nut and twist until tight. Test the strength of with a dimmer, tag the wire that leads to the common
the connection by gently tugging on both wires. terminal. The other two wires are interchangeable.
WIRING 1-2-3 69
Installing special switches
SKILLS: Stripping and splicing wires,
joining wires to terminals
PROJECT: Installing one of the special
switches shown here
HANDY: 30 min.
NOVICE: 40 min.

pliers, screwdriver
MATERIALS: Specialty switch, TOUCH-SENSITIVE DIMMER PILOT-LIGHT SWITCH
wire nuts With this switch you dim or brighten a light by continuing to Use one of these for a garage light or an attic fan-anywhere
press the switch rather than by turning a knob or operating a you can't see the fixture while operating the switch. When
toggle. Connect the black lead to the black feed wire and the the light glows the fixture is on. Connect the black feed wire
red lead to the black wire (or to the white wire painted to the brass terminal where there is no connecting tab, and
black) running to the fixture. Connect the green lead to the other black wire to a brass terminal on the other side.
ground (page 11). Pigtail the neutral wires, and connect one to the silver
terminal.
ithin an hour you can

install any of several
clever switches that do
everything from control a circuit at
a preset time to switch on a light
as you walk into a room. Instead
of the familiar screw-down
terminals on toggle switches,
most special switches have leads—
short lengths of stranded wire.
Shut off power to the circuit. To
splice leads follow the directions
on page 32-33.
ANYWHERE SWITCH
This switch lets you control a fixture without having to run electrical cable. Wire the receiver inside the
fixture, attach the sending switch "anywhere" on a wall, and put in a battery. You can even use these
switches in a three-way setup (pages 148-150), and dimmers are also available.
70 WIRING 1-2-3
CLOSER LOOK
ON EC A8U OR TW O ? '
See page 24 for the two ways to
wire a switch. If only one cable
enters a switch box, then power
runs first to the fixture and then
to the switch. Two w ire s -a black,
and a white wire marked b la c k -
run from the fixture to the switch.
With one cable, the black wire
leads to the fixture and the black-
marked white wire leads is the

feed wire (page 24). If two cables
enter the switch box, one brings
power and the other runs to the
TIMER SWITCH MOTION-SENSOR SWITCH fixture. Timer, combination, and
This switch turns outdoor lights on and off one or more times This switch turns on when its infrared beam senses pilot-light switches are among
a day. It can be used to replace a standard switch or a 3-way movement. Adjust the time-delay feature to control how those that can be installed only if
switch. Connect the black feed wire to the black lead and the long the light will stay on. Wiring is the same as for a you have two cables in the box.
other black wire (which goes to the fixture) to the blue lead. standard single-pole switch (pages 22-23), except that you With these types of specialty
In this case the red wire is capped but would be used in the connect to leads rather than to terminals. switches there must be an
case of replacing a 3-way switch. Connect the white neutral unmarked white neutral wire.
wires together. Always follow manufacturer's instructions
when connecting switches.
Combo switches
DOUBLE SWITCH SWITCH/RECEPTACLE SWITCH/RECEPTACLE WITH RECEPTACLE

This device allows you to control two fixtures This combines a switch and a grounded CONTROLLED BY SWITCH
from a single switch box. Three cables enter the receptacle plug in a single switch box. The If you want the receptacle to turn off when the
box: One brings power and the other two run to device usually is wired so the receptacle is hot switch is off, reverse the positions of the black
fixtures. Hook the feed wire to a terminal on the all the time. Hook the feed wire to a terminal wires so the feed wire is on the side that does
side that has a connecting tab. Hook the other on the side with a connecting tab. Hook the not have a connecting tab.
two black wires to the terminals on the other other black wire to a brass terminal on the other
side of the switch. Splice the white wires and side. Pigtail the white wires and hook to the
the grounds. silver terminal.
WIRING 1-2-3 71
Installing special switches (continued)
More switch possibilities
Here are some of the many special switches D im m ers short, the switches pictured represent just a few of
available at Home Depot. In addition to the switches A "smart dimmer" flips on and off with a toggle or the wide variety of switches available.
you find on display, you can special-order most any rocker switch, but causes the light to fade slowly
switch made by all the major manufacturers of when you turn it off. This has a calming effect and it Tim ers
electrical devices. All these switches install using the allows you to leave a room with a bit of light to Consider a programmable timer switch, which
techniques shown on the previous two pages. guide your way. An electronic timer switch has turns lights on and off more than twice a day. This
Many high-end switches are as decorative as presets switches that keep the light on for various can create the illusion that people are at home
they are useful. Some have a wide rocker that is lengths of time. A touch-point dimmer responds to while you are on vacation. An electronic timer
pushed rather than flipped. Some combine a large where the finger is placed on the switch's pad. A switch keeps the light on for a selected number of
sliding switch with a smaller rocker switch, for a toggle dimmer combines the look of a standard hours before automatically shutting it off. And a
space-age look. And some switches even come in switch with the capability of a dimmer. A fan speed plug-in timer controls a lamp or any other fixture or
colors other than the usual ivory or white. control has similar controls to a dimmer but allows appliance that you plug into it.
you to precisely control the speed of a ceiling fan. In
Smart dim m er
Toggle dim m er
Programmable
tim er switch
Touch-point
dim m er
Time delay
Plug-in tim er
72 WIRING 1-2-3 switch
Replacing a receptacle
PROJECT DETAII
SKILLS: Stripping wires and

connecting to terminals
PROJECT: Replacing one receptacle
HANDY: 25 min.
NOVICE: 45 min.
TOOLS: Screwdriver, lineman's

pliers, longnose pliers, side-cutting
pliers, receptacle analyzer, CHECK THAT PO W ER IS OFF TEST W IRES FOR POW ER
wire strippers, level Turn off power to the circuit (page 6). Test to confirm. If the In a damaged receptacle, wires may be hot even though
MATERIALS: New receptacle, tester shows current, check your service panel and turn off testing shows no power. Touch tester probes to the terminals.
electrician's tape, wire nuts another likely circuit. Test again and proceed only if power is If more than two wires enter the box, test all wires (page 6).
off. Remove the cover plate and unscrew the mounting If you have old wiring and both wires are black, use a
screws. Being careful not to touch wires or terminals, pull out receptacle analyzer (page 30) to check that the neutral
the receptacle. wire is connected to the silver terminal and the hot wire to
the brass.
f a receptacle doesn't
a seem to work, first

check that whatever is
plugged into it works properly.
Replace any receptacle that is
cracked. Before buying a
replacement receptacle, check
the wiring. Usually the wires
leading to a receptacle will be #14
and the circuit breaker or fuse will
be 15 amp. In that case, install a
15-amp receptacle. Install a
20-amp receptacle only if the
wires are #12 and the circuit
breaker or fuse is 20 amps
or greater.
S N IP A N D RESTRIP D A M A G ED W IR E ENDS INSTALL THE RECEPTACLE
Once you're sure the power is off, unscrew the terminals and Wire the new receptacle the same as the old, with each
pull away the wires, taking care not to twist them too much. white wire connected to a silver terminal and each black or
If a wire end appears nicked or damaged or if it looks like it color wire connected to a brass terminal. Wrap electrician's
has been twisted several times, snip off the end and restrip it tape to cover all terminals and bare wires. Gently push the
(pages 32-33). outlet into the box. Tighten the mounting screws, and check
that the receptacle is straight. Replace the cover plate, restore
power, and test with a receptacle analyzer.
WIRING 1-2-3 73
Adding GFCI protection
ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) shuts down

connecting wires to terminals
PROJECT: Installing one GFCI
receptacle
Q power in milliseconds when it detects the tiniest
change in current flow and codes require GFCIs in
inexpensive and simple to install.

A single GFCI can protect up to eleven receptacles or light
BUYER'S GUIDE
bathrooms, in kitchens near sinks, and outdoors. GFCIs areEXTEND A GFCI BOX
A bulky GFCI can dangerously crowd
a box. Buy a box designed for
outlets on the same circuit. A GFCI circuit breaker can protect raceway wiring and two 2-inch-long
an entire circuit (page 75). If your home has ungrounded 6 /3 2 screws. Fasten the screws
receptacles (page 11), installing GFCIs will provide protection, through the GFCI and raceway box
but won't ground your circuits. and into the box.
HANDY: 45 min.
Check your GFCIs at least once a month by pushing in the
NOVICE: 1 hr.
test button. (The reset button should pop out. Push it back
in.) A GFCI may provide power even though it has lost its
ability to protect.
TOOLS: Screwdriver, lineman's Don't use a GFCI as a receptacle for a refrigerator, freezer,
pliers, longnose pliers, side-cutting or any other appliance that must stay on all the time—it may
pliers, receptacle analyzer, trip off without your knowledge. Also do not attempt to
wire strippers, level control a GFCI with a switch.
MATERIALS: New receptacle,
electrician's tape, wire nuts
INSTALLING A SINGLE GFCI PROTECTING OTHER OUTLETS

Shut off the power. Make connections only to the LINE Shut off the power. Connect the wires carrying power into
terminals. For an end-of-the-run box, connect the wires to the box to the LINE terminals. Then connect the wires leading
the terminals. If the box is middle-of-the-run (shown), make out of the box (to other receptacles or lights) to the LOAD
a pigtail for each connection by stripping 6 inches along the terminals. If you're unsure which wires come from the service
ends of the wires. Splice each pigtail to the wire(s) with a panel, pull the wires out of the box and position them so
wire nut, and connect it to the GFCI terminals. Put the white they will not touch each other. Restore power and use a
wire on the silver terminal and the black or color wire on the tester to see which pair of wires is hot; connect these to the
brass terminal. Be sure the box in the wall is large enough to LINE terminals.
accommodate a GFCI. Replace it if it is not.
74 WIRING 1-2-3
Installing a GFCI breaker
he least expensive way to give a circuit GFCI
a
Q SAFETY ALERT
protection is to install a GFCI receptacle. It can
SKILLS: Working safely in a service be wired to protect up to four additional LIGHTNING PROTECTION
panel, connecting wires to terminals receptacles (page 45). Lightning will seriously damage a roof, and if it hits the power
PROJECT: Installing a GFCI breaker in a For more reliable protection install a GFCI circuit breaker. line coming into your home, lightning may fry your service
service panel It's more expensive, but it protects all the outlets on a circuit. panel. Nothing will protect your home or electrical system
Although you must feel comfortable about working on a from a direct hit, but some surge protectors will protect
service panel, installing a GFCI breaker can be easier than against nearby strikes. Or install an arrester system, which is
installing a GFCI receptacle. The latter is bulky and often basically an old-fashioned lightning rod. One or more rods are
requires a box extender.
3333
fastened to the highest points on the house, and a thick cable
HANDY: 30 min.
See pages 19-21 for general safety instructions for leads from them to the ground. The rod will conduct a reduced
NOVICE: 1 hr.
working in a service panel. Always shut off power to the charge into the earth.
main breaker before you begin working.

pliers, screwdriver, flashlight
MATERIALS: GFCI breaker
INSTALLING A GFCI BREAKER

Shut off the main breaker. (This de-energizes
all the wires and circuitry after the main breaker,
but the wires leading into the service panel will
still be live.) Have a flashlight handy. Pull out
the existing circuit breaker, loosen the terminal
screw, and pull the wire out. Insert that wire
into the GFCI breaker, and tighten the screw to
clamp the wire tight. Detach the line's white
wire from the neutral bus, and attach it to the
breaker. Push the GFCI breaker into place as you
would a standard breaker (page 26). Attach the
curly white wire to the neutral bus bar, and
restore power.
WIRING 1-2-3 75
Installing AFCI
n arc fault occurs when electricity is allowed to create an arc all by itself (see below right). The arc (or spark)
arc-to travel via a spark—usually from a hot creates a fire hazard as well as a danger to anyone who may
SKILLS: Working safely in a service wire to a neutral, ground wire, or anything that is touch the cord.
panel, connecting wires to terminals grounded. Arc faults most often occur in a lamp or appliance A GFCI receptacle will likely shut off when there is an arc
PROJECT: Installing an AFCI breaker in cord with damaged insulation (see below left). It can also fault, but an AFCI is more reliable. For that reason AFCI
a service panel occur with house wiring inside an electrical box, as when a breakers are now required by codes for bedroom circuits that
hot wire with damaged insulation touches a bare ground have receptacles on them, and are a good idea for living and
wire (see below middle). And a hot wire that is cracked can dining rooms as well.
HANDY: 30 min.
NOVICE: 1 hr.

pliers, screwdriver, flashlight
MATERIALS: AFCI breaker
Installing an AFCI breaker

Install an AFCI circuit breaker just as you would a GFCI breaker
(see page 75). Purchase a breaker made by the service
panel's manufacturer, and make sure it is the correct
amperage-15- and 20-amp breakers are usually available.
Shut off the main breaker. (This de-energizes all the
wires after the main breaker, but the wires leading into the
service panel will still be live.) Before you install the breaker,
remove the existing circuit breaker, loosen the terminal
screw, and pull the wire out. Insert that wire into the AFCI
breaker's terminal hole and tighten the setscrew. Detach the
circuit's white wire from the neutral bus, and attach it to the
breaker. Push the AFCI breaker into place as you would a
standard breaker. Attach the curly white wire to the neutral
bus bar, and restore power.
76 WIRING 1-2-3
Testing switches
Hil
SKILLS: Using a continuity tester or
multitester, disconnecting a switch
PROJECT: Removing and testing a
specialty switch
HANDY: 20 min.
SWITCHES A N D RECEPTACLES
NOVICE: 30 min.
TOOLS: Voltage tester, continuity

tester or multitester, screwdriver
TESTING A TIMER SWITCH TESTING A DOUBLE SWITCH
MATERIALS: None required
Timer switches vary significantly by manufacturer. Some are Test each of the switches in the same way: Touch the probes
digital with buttons, as shown above, or analog with a rotary to the terminals on each side of the switch. If the tester
dial. The color of the wires on the switch also vary according indicates continuity with the switch ON and no continuity
to the manufacturer. To test a timer switch you will need to with the switch OFF, then the switch is working. If you get
test the continuity of the switch when it is turned on (the any other result from either switch, replace the device.
continuity tester light should glow) and turned off. Check the
wiring diagram of the manufacturer to know which colors of
wires to touch with the tester's probes.
switch should show
Q continuity when
turned on and no
continuity when turned off. With
some specialty switches, however,
it might be hard to know when the
switch is on and when it is off.
Some of the more common
specialty switches are expensive
enough to warrant testing before
you replace them. (You may want
to replace single-pole switches
without testing-they're cheap to
replace.) Do not test a switch
while it is wired. Shut off
power to the circuit, and
remove the switch. TESTING A SWITCH/RECEPTACLE TESTING A PROGRAMMABLE SWITCH
Begin by testing the switch. With probes touching the Turn the manual override switch to ON, and touch the probes
terminal on each side, the tester should show continuity with to both leads. Use a digital multitester as shown or a
the switch ON and no continuity with the switch OFF. If you continuity tester (page 30) to test for continuity. Then test
get different results, replace the device. with the switch turned OFF. The tester should show no
continuity. If your results differ replace the switch.
WIRING 1-2-3 77
Testing a three-way switch
TESTING A THREE-WAY SWITCH
Touch one probe to the common terminal (it is a
different color and may have "common"
printed next to it) and one to either of the
"traveler" terminals. Flip the switch. The tester
should show continuity when the toggle is
either up or down, but not in both positions.
Keep the toggle in the ON position (the position
that shows continuity) for the first traveler
terminal, and move one probe from the first
traveler terminal to the second. The tester
SWITCHES A N D RECEPTACLES
should show no continuity. Flip the switch and

the tester should show continuity. If any of the
test results differ, replace the switch. (See pages
148-150 for more about three-way switches.)
Understanding and testing a four-way switch
Light fixture
3-way switch
Common
Common
3-w ay term inal
Power in term inal
switch
A FOUR-WAY SYSTEM CONTROLS A SINGLE the switches. This schematic will help if you get continuity may run crosswise or diagonally from any
LIGHT WITH THREE OR MORE SWITCHES confused. Test the three-way switches as described of the four terminals to any of the others. The
The first and last switches are three-ways, and the above, but you'll have to take the four-way to an direction of the paths depends on the switch
switch or switches between them are four-ways. electrical supply store for testing. What's so manufacturer so always make sure the packaging
Carefully tag all the wires before removing any of complicated about a four-way? The paths of the switch comes in has a diagram you can follow.
78 WIRING 1-2-3
Checking 240-volt receptacles
tationary 240-volt appliances, such as electric Some receptacles deliver both 240-volt and 120-volt
SKILLS: Confidence working on high-

voltage devices, connecting to
terminals, using a tester
PROJECT: Replacing a 240-volt
S water heaters, central air-conditioning units, and
electric furnaces, are "hardwired." Instead of
appliance to a junction box.

Movable 240-volt appliances, such as window
power (page 145). These are used for electric ranges and
clothes dryers that need heavy voltage for heating elements
having cords with plugs, a cable runs directly from theand standard voltage for motors and clocks.
Specific types of receptacles are available, each with a
different hole configuration so only one type of plug can fit.
receptacle air-conditioners and electric ranges, are plugged into Ranges usually use 120/240-volt, 50-amp receptacles;
240-volt receptacles. dryers plug into 120/240-volt, 30-amp receptacles; air-
conditioners use 240-volt, 30-amp receptacles.

HANDY: 20 min.
NOVICE: 30 min.
TOOLS: Voltage tester, screwdriver,

continuity tester or multitester,
longnose pliers
MATERIALS: None needed
Q SAFETY ALERT
TAKE EXTRA PRECAUTIONS

240 volts can do a lot more
damage than 120. When doing a
live test, wear rubber-soled
shoes and, if kneeling, use a
rubber pad. Do not touch the
metal parts of the tester probes.
(See page 6 for other important
safety tips.)
TESTING A 240-VOLT RECEPTACLE

If an appliance plugged into a 240-volt receptacle gets no vertical slot and one in a neutral or ground slot, you should
power or only partial power, first check the service panel to get a reading of 120 volts. If your readings differ, shut off
make sure that the breaker hasn't tripped or the fuse hasn't power to the circuit and remove the receptacle. Make sure
blown. To make a live test, turn on the circuit, and carefully the wiring connections are tight. If they are not, tighten and
insert the probes of a four-level voltage tester or a retest. Otherwise, replace the receptacle with a duplicate
multitester (pages 30-31) into the two vertical slots. The (page 145). If the receptacle is working correctly, but the
meter should register around 240 volts. With one probe in a appliance is not, you may need to replace the appliance cord.
WIRING 1-2-3 79
a
Switching from three-wire to four-wire

Kneel on a foam pad while you work. Note how the three-wire cord is Don't neglect this important piece of hardware; if the dryer cord gets
attached, and wire the new cord the same way. A ground for the dryer yanked, the bracket will protect the connections and help avoid a possible
motor often attaches to the dryer body near where the plug wires attach. short. Fit it into the cord access hole and evenly tighten both screws firmly
Attach the cord's ground wire to it. onto the cord.
o CLOSER LOOK
Three-prong
THREE PRONG PLUGS A N D FOUR PRONG RECEPTACLE MOVE UP TO A GROUNDED RECEPTACLE

Although most dryers are hard wired rather than plugged, you may run into If your system is grounded (look for a copper wire fastened to the box and
the rare situation where the dryer was built with an incompatible plug. In that check for grounding at your service panel), give yourself a safety edge by
case you should determine what your local codes dictate for a dryer installing a four-wire receptacle. Attach black to black, white to white, and
connection and follow them. red to red. With #10 wire, pigtail to the ground. If you need to run new cable
for a new receptacle, see page 141.
80 WIRING 1-2-3
Grounding receptacles
SKILLS: Testing for power, stripping
and connecting wires
PROJECT: Testing and replacing a
receptacle
HANDY: 30 min.

NOVICE: 45 min.
TOOLS: Voltage tester or multitester,

wire strippers, screwdriver, longnose
pliers
MATERIALS: Grounded receptacle,
electrician's tape TEST AGAIN
FOR GROUND If the first test is negative, remove the cover plate and repeat
Scrape off any paint from the mounting screw. Insert one the first test, but touch the metal box, rather than the
probe of a voltage tester or multitester into one receptacle mounting screw, with one probe. If power is now indicated,
slot, and touch the other to the mounting screw. Repeat the you can install a grounded receptacle.
test for the other slot. If voltage is present the box is
grounded and you can install a three-hole receptacle.
f a receptacle is
a ungrounded (with two

slots only, and no
grounding hole), its box may
actually be grounded. If so, you
can install a grounded receptacle.
Do not install a grounded
receptacle if the box is not
grounded-you'll give the false
impression the box is grounded
when it is not. (For a description of
grounding, see page 11.)
If a box is ungrounded, ground
it by running a #12 green insulated
or bare copper wire to a cold-water
pipe and connect it using a special AVOID GROUNDING ADAPTERS
grounding clamp. Or install a GFCI This type of adapter is illegal. It's not much work to install
Snip off the stripped wire ends, which could break if they are
receptacle (page 74), which will a grounded receptacle, so there's no good reason to use
bent again, and restrip. See page 18 for wiring directions. Be
provide greater protection than an adapter.
sure to test with a receptacle analyzer. If the test shows the
grounding alone.
receptacle is not polarized, switch the wires.
WIRING 1-2-3 81
Adding surge protection
nee in a while, power
supplied by your utility
company may
suddenly increase for a few
milliseconds. This "surge" does
not affect most electrical
components, but it can damage
sensitive electronic equipment,
such as computers and televisions.
A surge on your telephone line can
destroy your modem and damage

your computer. So buy surge
protection. The higher a device's
"joule" (a unit of strength of
energy) rating, the better the
protection. A surge arrester or
protector will work only if the
POWER STRIP SURGE SUPPRESSOR WHOLE HOUSE SURGE PROTECTION
electrical system is grounded.
An inexpensive device like this protects against surges and Installed directly on your service panel, a whole house surge
makes it easy to organize ail those cords in a home office. protector gives all the wiring in your house protection from
Just plug it in. To protect a modem and computer, spend surges in power in the local lines. Surges can come from
a little more for a device with a phone connection or lightning strikes that hit the wiring near your home.
a DSL cable. However, if your home is hit directly, even a whole house
surge protector may not protect your more delicate circuitry
such as your computer.
W O R K SMARTER
ARRESTER IN BREAKER BOX

To install an arrester that covers two circuits, the terminals of the arrester breaker. Attach the
shut off the main breaker. Remove two circuit curly white wire to the neutral bus bar (make
breakers. Switch the breaker toggles to OFF. sure there are no kinks). Restore power and
Push the arrester breaker into place (page 26). switch the arrester breakers on. Another type of
Transfer the black wires from the old breakers to surge arrester protects the entire panel.
82 WIRING 1-2-3
Ceiling lights
and fixtures
UPGRADING A CEILING FIXTURE
INSTALLING TRACK LIGHTING
EUROSTYLE LIGHTS
HANGING A CEILING FAN
INSTALLING RECESSED LIGHTING
UNDERCABINET HALOGEN LIGHTING
INSTALLING FLUORESCENT LIGHTING
ften the quickest and easiest way to make a stunning improvement ADDING UNDERCABINET
FLUORESCENT LIGHTS
to a room is by installing a new ceiling light fixture. Most new lights
are quick to install, though some will require an hour or so of
assembly. If your home was built after World War II, chances are good that the
hardware in your ceiling box is compatible with the new fixture. If it is not, you can
purchase special mounting parts that allow you to connect old to new.
If you have an existing surface-mounted ceiling fixture that is controlled by a wall
switch, you can install another surface-mounted light. Also consider track lights and
Eurostyle lights of various types, both of which attach easily. If you want a ceiling fan,
you may need to replace the existing box with a stronger fan-rated box that is firmly
attached to framing.
WIRING 1-2-3 83
Upgrading a ceiling fixture
efore you replace the fixture, check that the Working as if the wires are hot, unscrew the wire nuts. Test
canopy of the new fixture (the part that snugs up that the power is off, and then undo the wires. Note the
SKILLS: Stripping and splicing wires, to the ceiling) will cover any imperfections in the type of mounting hardware, or remove it and take it along
connecting wires to terminals, drywall or plaster. If you have a thin "pancake" box, replace when buying a new fixture. The new fixture will probably
attaching a fixture, connecting it with a remodeling box (pages 132-133). include mounting hardware (usually, a strap). You may be
to terminals Determine which mounting hardware you'll need before able to reuse existing hardware.
PROJECT: Attaching a new fixture buying a new fixture. Turn off the power at the service Always push the house wires up into the box. Never
to an existing box. Allow more time panel (page 6) and remove the fixture. Enlist a helper to place them in the fixture's canopy, where they may be
if you need to buy the correct support the fixture while you remove the mounting screws harmed by heat.
mounting parts, replace incoming that hold the canopy in place. Gently pull down the fixture.
cable damaged by heat, or patch
the ceiling
HANDY: 40 min.
NOVICE: 1 hr.
TOOLS: Voltage tester or multitester,

wire strippers, lineman's pliers,
longnose pliers, side-cutting pliers,
screwdriver, stepladder
MATERIALS: New light fixture,
W IR E A FLU SH -M O U NTED FIXTURE M O U N T THE FIXTURE

0 SAFETY ALERT
Tug on the hardware to make sure the box is firmly attached. Slide a mounting screw through the fixture and up into the
SAVE THAT INSULATION Don't depend on the wires and wire nuts to support it while threaded hole in the strap. Start one mounting screw,
Don't remove the fiberglass you work. Rest the fixture on a stepladder, or make a hook fastening it halfway in, then start the other screw. With a
insulation at the top of a ceiling from a wire coat hanger and temporarily suspend the fixture screwdriver or a drill and screwdriver bit, drive the mounting
fixture, even if it seems to get in from the mounting strap. With the power off, splice white to screws tight.
the way. It's there to protect the white wires and black to black wires, using wire nuts (page
wires from overheating. 14). Tuck the house wires up into the box.
Note: Sometimes you will find that two black wires come
with the fan or fixture. If this is the case, the smooth wire
is hot and the ribbed wire is the neutral.
84 WIRING 1-2-3
Special alignment Center-mounted Older installation
A D D A SW IVEL STRAP USE A CENTER STUD FOR A D D A HICKEY IN OLDER

Use a swivel strap (also called an offset CENTER-M OUNTED FIXTURES INSTALLATIONS
crossbar) if you need to twist the canopy into A center stud, sometimes called a nipple, may An older home may have a 3/s-inch pipe running
exact alignment. This is most often a have wires running through it (for a pendent through the middle of the ceiling box. To install
consideration when installing a fixture with a fixture) or around it (for a center-mounted a pendent fixture, add a hickey to make the
geometric canopy. fixture). A variation uses a center nipple, which transition from the pipe to a new fixture. Feed
screws into the strap. the fixture leads through the hickey, and tuck
the house wires up into the box.
M O U N T A FIXTURE THAT INSTALL A CENTER-M OUNTED A D D A M ED A LLIO N

NEEDS A LIG N M E N T FIXTURE Hickeys are found in old houses with plaster and
Wire the fixture, and tuck the house wires up The center stud should be long enough to go lath ceilings. The fixture canopy usually won't
into the box. Screw both mounting bolts into through the strap and the fixture, but not so cover damaged plaster around the ceiling box.
the threaded holes of the strap. Line up the long that it pokes into the box or hits the globe. Adding a medallion saves you the trouble
fixture-mounting holes with the bolts and Attach the wires and fold them into the box as of patching and painting while adding a
attach the fixture, using the decorative you slide the canopy up and over the stud. decorative feature.
mounting nuts. Snugly secure the canopy with the nut.
WIRING 1-2-3 85
Installing track lighting
SKILLS: Laying out a track and
anchoring with screws, stripping and
splicing wires
PROJECT: Installing a track lighting
system
Canopy and
EXPERIENCED: 2 hrs.
HANDY: 4 hrs.
NOVICE: 6 hrs.
Mounting
TOOLS: Voltage tester, wire strippers,

lineman's pliers, drill with
screwdriver bit, tape measure,
hacksaw
MATERIALS: Track system with lights,
wire nuts, screws, plastic anchors
PURCHASING A TRACK SYSTEM

Work with a salesperson; explain the size and configuration the lights and bulbs when you buy the tracks. You can put
you want. Buy a kit that includes track, mounting plate, end different types of lamps on the same track, but be sure to
cap, and canopy. You also may have to buy additional track purchase lamps made by the same manufacturer as the
and end caps as well as L- or T-fittings for the corners. Choose track-otherwise, the two may be incompatible.
track system is the

most versatile of all
ceiling fixtures. You
can configure it in many ways,
choose from several lamp styles,
and position the lamps to suit your
needs. To begin installation
remove the existing ceiling fixture
to locate the track.
If you don't have an existing
ceiling fixture that is switched,
see pages 146-147 for how to
install a new one.
MEASURE AND MARK FOR THE TRACK

Shut off power at the service panel. Use wire nuts to splice At the mounting plate measure to see how far the side of the
the house wires to the plate leads. Connect the ground wire track will be from the nearest wall. Mark the ceiling so the
to the plate and to the box if it is metal (for grounding see track will be consistently parallel to the wall. Use a framing
pages 11,17-18). Push the wires into the box, and screw the square to draw lines if the track turns a corner.
plate to the box so it is snug against the ceiling.
86 WIRING 1-2-3
Mounting plate
ATTACH THE TRACK TO THE SECURE THE TRACK

MOUNTING PLATE Use a stud finder to locate joists. If the track is CONNECTOR
Have a helper hold the track in place against the more than 4 feet long, have a helper hold one Insert the live-end connector and turn it 90
ceiling and centered on the mounting plate. end while you work. Snap the track onto the degrees until it snaps into place. Align the
Drive the setscrews to anchor the track to plate, and drive a screw into every available connector's two copper tabs with the two
the plate. joist. If there are no joists, drill holes every foot copper bars inside the track. Snap the plastic
or so, insert plastic anchors, and drive screws canopy over the track and mounting plate.
into the anchors.
CLOSER LOOK
Tracks are available in standard lengths of 2 ,4 ,6 ,

and 8 feet. If these sizes do not fit your needs,
cut a track with a hacksaw or a saber saw
equipped with a fine-toothed metal-cutting
blade. Clamp the track in a vise or hold it firmly
with your hand as you cut. Cut slowly and take
ATTACH A CORNER TWIST ON A LIGHT care not to bend the track while cutting. Reattach
You can buy connectors to make 90-degree This type of light twists into place in the same the plastic end piece.
turns, T- shapes, or odd-angle turns. Slide the way as the live-end connector (Step 5). Another
connector into the track that is already installed, type has a metal arm that is twisted to tighten.
slide the next track onto the connector, and Restore power, turn on the switch, and swivel
attach that track to the ceiling. Cover all open the lights to position them for the best effect.
track ends with end caps.
WIRING 1-2-3 87
Eurostyle lights
Lights to choose
SKILLS: Anchoring screw hooks,
splicing wires
PROJECT: Installing a set of halogen
trapeze lights
EXPERIENCED: 1 hr.
HANDY: 2 hrs.
NOVICE: 3 hrs.
At The Home Depot you will find many choices of sleek and
stylish lights with a modem European flair. These fixtures
TOOLS: Voltage tester, wire strippers, tend to show off their hardware rather than hiding behind a
drill, screwdriver, longnose pliers, canopy or globe. Some balance on two wires like trapeze
side-cutting pliers artists, while others attach to tracks that run in curves. Most
MATERIALS: Trapeze light kit, of these lights allow you to design the pattern or shape of
wire nuts your choice.
Trapeze lights
hese halogen fixtures
are energy-efficient,
stylish, and-because
you can easily point them to do
the most good-versatile. Exposed
wires or tracks are not dangerous
because they carry very low
voltage. Remove an existing
ceiling light and attach a canopy
transformer to the ceiling box (as
shown in Step 2), or insert a plug
in transformer into a switched
receptacle (page 146).
Shut off power. Remove the light fixture or install and run Install a strap on the ceiling box (pages 84-85). Mount the
cable to a ceiling box (Chapter 9, Installing new services) transformer onto the strap. Splice the canopy transformer's
where you plan to install the lights. Attach two cable anchors red lead to the house's black wire, and splice white to white
on the walls between which the unit will hang. Cut two wires. Ground the light by connecting the green lead to the
lengths of cable to span the length of the installation. Fasten ground wire.
cables to the anchors and tighten the turnbuckle until the
cables are taut.
88 WIRING 1-2-3
CONNECT THE LOW-VOLTAGE WIRES HANG THE LIGHTS
You may have to cut the low-voltage leads to the right Hold a halogen with a cloth (oil from your skin will damage
length, restrip the clear insulation, and reattach the leads to it), and push the pins into a light arm. Slip the spring clamp
the transformer. Clamp the leads onto the stretched cables over a wire, position the light arm on the cable, and clip the
using the fasteners provided with the kit. Attach the cover to spring clamp onto the cable. Restore power and test.
the transformer.
Flexible track lights
MARK FOR CEILING SUPPORTS ATTACH THE CANOPY AND THE ATTACH THE TRACK AND THE
Shut off power. Remove the existing ceiling fixture, SUPPORTS LIGHTS
or run wiring for a new ceiling box (Chapter 9, Connect the wires in the electrical box to the canopy, Again working with a helper or two, bend the track
Installing new services). Working with a helper or following manufacturer's instructions; the wiring is to the desired shape and slip it up into the slots in
two, bend the track into the shape of your choice. much the same as for a ceiling fixture (see pages the supports. Screw on the caps loosely, make
Mark the ceiling for the locations of the supports, 84-85). Disassemble the supports, and drive screws adjustments to the shape of the track if needed,
which will hold the track in place. to attach them at each of the marked locations. then screw the caps tight. You can now attach the
If there is no ceiling joist to drive the screw into, lights at any points along the track.
use a plastic anchor. Assemble the lower portions of
the supports.
WIRING 1-2-3 89
Hanging a ceiling fan
eiling fans circulate air downward to cool rooms ■ Plan how you'll cover the hole once you remove the old
in the summer and upward to evenly disperse ceiling box. Buy a light with a canopy that's wide enough
SKILLS: Removing an old box, heat in the winter. Observe the following to cover the hole, or get a medallion to hide ceiling
installing a fan box, attaching a guidelines to install a fan, and it will effectively circulate the imperfections (page 85).
fixture, stripping and splicing wires, air in your home without hissing, wobbling, or pulling away ■ Decide how many blades you want. Depending on the
wiring a switch from the ceiling. design of the blades, four-blade fans can move more air
PROJECT: Replacing a light fixture than five-blade models.
with a new ceiling fan P lann in g fo r a fan ■ Avoid "ceiling hugger" fans-they do not circulate air
Before installing a fan consider these issues: well. Fans should have downrods long enough (you can
■ Decide whether to wire the switch to control the fan and buy downrod extenders) to position fan blades at least 10
the light separately (page 71). inches from the ceiling, but check that the blades are no
EXPERIENCED: 2 hrs.
■ Buy a separate light kit if your unit doesn't include one; lower than 7 feet from the floor.
HANDY: 4 hrs.
some fans include lights, so check to be sure. ■ Use only a speed control switch. If you install standard
NOVICE: 8 hrs.
■ Choose a fan-rated box that fits your situation (page 91). dimmer switch it can bum out the fan motor.
TOOLS: Drywall saw, hammer, Removing the old box

voltage tester or multitester, wire
strippers, longnose pliers, adjustable
wrench, side-cutting pliers,
screwdriver, reciprocating saw or
metal-cutting keyhole saw
MATERIALS: Fan, fan-rated box,
downrod extender, light kit, fan/light
switch (can be remote-controlled),
REMOVING A CEILING BOX REMOVING AN OLD PANCAKE BOX

Shut off the power. Sometimes you can remove screws or In an old home with plaster ceilings, you may encounter a
nails and pry out the box. Or you may have to carefully cut pancake box like this. Shut off the power. Unscrew any nuts
away drywall or plaster to get to fasteners. If the box is or screws that are holding the box in place, and pry out the
nailed to a joist, cut around the box to enlarge the hole, and box. You may need to cut away some wood lath to make
tap the box loose using a piece of wood and a hammer. You room for the new box.
may be able to cut through fasteners with a reciprocating
saw or a metal-cutting keyhole saw. Take great care not to
slice through any cable.
90 WIRING 1-2-3
1
Plastic light-fixture box ^ Braced box
Pancake box
CUT THROUGH FASTENERS FAN BOXES TO CHOOSE

If a box is attached to the side of a joist, first use a drywall Be sure to purchase a fan-rated box, which has thick threads for attaching the fan's
saw or utility knife to cut around the box and expose the mounting plate. Some boxes mount directly below a ceiling joist, some mount to the
wiring and the fasteners. Shut off the power. Cut through side of a joist, and some use a brace that attaches to a joist on either side.
the nails or screws with a reciprocating saw, taking care not
to nick any wiring.
Installing a braced box

U-bolt assembly
SLIP IN THE BRACE TIGHTEN THE BRACE ATTACH THE BOX

Check the joists for any wiring or plumbing runs that Measure to make sure that the brace is centered in Attach the U-bolt assembly to the brace so that the
might be in the way before you install the brace. the hole. Position it on the joists at the correct height assembly is centered in the hole and the bolts face
Test-fit the box on the brace; then take it apart so the box will be flush with the surface of the down. Thread cable through the cable connector and
again. Push the brace through the hole and spread it ceiling. Use an adjustable wrench or channel-type into the fan-rated box. Slip the box up so the bolts
until it touches the joists on both sides with the legs pliers to tighten the brace until it is firm. slide through it. Tighten the nuts to secure the box.
of the brace resting on top of the drywall or plaster.
WIRING 1-2-3 91
If you have a joist in the
middle of the hole (as may be
the case if you removed a thin
WHEN FRAMING IS ACCESSIBLE, ATTACH A CEILING OR INSTALL A BRACED BOX FROM ABOVE
"pancake" ceiling box),
BOX TO A JOIST... Buy a new-work ceiling fan box with a brace. Slide the box
attaching a fan box from below
Install this type of box in unfinished ceilings or ceilings with a along the brace to position it. Tighten the clamp. Attach the
will be easy. Buy a thin fan
large hole. Drill pilot holes and drive in 11/4-inch wood screws brace by driving in lift-inch wood screws.
rated box, and clamp the cable
to attach it to a joist.
to it. Hold it in place and drill
pilot holes; then drive in 2-inch
wood screws. (Don't use
drywall screws or "all-purpose"
Attaching the plate screws—they break too easily.)
INSTALL THE MOUNTING PLATE OPTION: ATTACH THE PLATE TO A JOIST

Thread the wires through the center of the mounting plate. If the box has If it is difficult to install a new fan-rated box, consider this technique: Attach the
mounting bolts that poke through the plate, fit the mounting plate over the bolts fan's mounting plate with screws driven into a nearby joist rather than attaching
and fasten it with the nuts provided. If separate bolts are provided, push each it to the box. If the fan's canopy will not cover the box, add a ceiling medallion.
one through the mounting plate as shown. When both bolts are in place, tighten
the plate onto the ceiling.
92 WIRING 1-2-3
Installing the fan
ASSEMBLE THE DOWNROD AND CANOPY WIRE THE FAN

On a worktable ready the fan for installation, following manufacturer's Temporarily hang the fan from the hook on the mounting ring. Connect the
instructions. Run the fan leads through the downrod (or downrod extender), and copper ground wire to the green wire attached to the fan base. If you have only
tightly screw on the downrod. Remember to tighten the setscrews. Slip on the two wires, connect both the black lead (for the fan motor) and the blue or
canopy, then install the bulb-shape fitting at the top of the downrod. It will rest striped lead (for the light) to the black house wire, and the white lead to the
in the canopy when the canopy is attached to the ceiling. Be careful not to white house wire. If you have three-wire cable, connect black to black, white to
mangle the wires. Do not attach the fan blades yet. white, and red to the blue or striped light lead. Check the manufacturer's
directions. You may choose to install a remote-control unit (page 95).
CLOSER LOOK
You probably have two-wire cable (not counting have been known to turn the fan on by
the ground wire) running into the ceiling fixture. themselves—a potentially dangerous
If so, you have four options to control the fan and situation if you're away for a few days.
the light: ■ Install a remote-control switch, as shown on
■ Hook the fan to the two wires so the wall page 95. This is rather costly, but far less work
switch turns the fan and the light on or off at than running new cable.
the same time. Use the pull chains on the ■ Control the fan and light separately by using a
fixture to control the fan and light individually. double wall switch. Run three-wire cable from
This is convenient enough if you don't need to the fixture to the switch using the red wire to
change fan speeds often. power the fan and the black wire to power the
■ Purchase a fan that has a special fan/light light. Connect the wires as shown in Combo
switch that requires only two wires. These fans Switches under Double Switch on page 71.
are expensive, however, and the switches
WIRING 1-2-3 93
Bracket
ATTACH THE CANOPY TO THE MOUNTING PLATE ATTACH THE BLADES

Use a helper to support the fan motor while you drive the screws. Push the wires If the brackets are not all of uniform shape, return them and get replacements.
and wire nuts up into the box to keep them from vibrating against the canopy Screw a bracket to each fan blade. Make sure the side of the blade that you want
when the fan is running. Clip the canopy onto the mounting plate and tighten to show faces down. Attach each bracket to the motor with two screws. Drive the
the screws. screws slowly to avoid stripping. Don't bend the brackets as you work.
Some ceiling fans come with a light kit, but you can also purchase light kits
separately. With many styles available you can find lighting to match your decor. Be
When you remove the plate on the bottom of the fan, you may see a tangle of sure that the lights you choose allow for bulbs of a high enough wattage to
wires. Don't worry; just find the blue or striped lead and the white lead, and adequately light your room. In most cases a kit with three or four separate lights will
connect them to the light kit leads. Screw the light kit up to the fan. Some light provide more wattage than a single light.
kits require a spacer ring between the fan and the light. The spacer ring should
come with the kit or the fan.
94 WIRING 1-2-3
OPTION A: IF POWER RUNS TO THE SWITCH OPTION B: IF POWER RUNS TO THE CEILING BOX
Shut off power to the switch. A three-wire cable usually runs from the fan If the switch box has only one cable—the one from the fan—then power runs to
to the switch, and a two-wire cable brings power to the switch. Follow the the ceiling box. Usually you'll find a black-marked white wire that brings power
manufacturer's instructions; wire colors vary. Most likely you'll splice the black from the fan to the switch; however, the previous installer may not have marked
wire bringing power to the black switch lead, and splice the two white wires it. If unmarked, wrap tape around its end and splice it with the switch's black
together. Then splice the black wire from the fan and the red wire from the light lead. Splice the red wire (from the light) and the black wire (from the fan) to the
to the switch's fan and light leads. switch's light and fan leads.
BUYER'S GUIDE
If a fan does not turn smoothly, first make sure that all the
screws are tightened firmly, and check that the downrod is
seated correctly in the mounting bracket; you should not be
able to twist it while pulling down. Also measure down from
the ceiling to make sure that none of the blades are warped,
and replace any that are. If none of these measures solves the
problem, use a fan balancing kit, which is usually included in
the box with a new fan or which can be purchased separately.
If you have only two wires running from the the switch unit and the receiving unit. Install the
switch to the fan box, a remote control will let canopy. Put a battery in the sending unit, and
you control the fan and light separately. Before attach a hanging bracket on a wall. If the ceiling
you install the canopy, hook up the receiving unit fixture was originally switched, the two wires
with both fan and light leads (black and blue or sending power to the fan are still controlled by
striped) spliced with the remote's black lead, and that switch. The sending unit controls the fan or
the white wire spliced to the white lead. Make light, or both, only when the wall switch is on.
sure the little dip switches are set the same on
WIRING 1-2-3 95
Installing recessed lighting
ecessed canister lights, also called "pot lights," Choosing canister lights
use 60- to 150-watt floodlight bulbs. They're Can lights are designed to suit specific situations. Here's how
SKILLS: Installing cable, connecting ideal for task lighting, highlighting artwork, or to choose the right one:
to power, wiring a switch, and grouped to illuminate whole rooms. (See page 61 for tips on ■ If there's insulation in the ceiling, buy IC (insulation
stripping and splicing wire planning.) Cans get hot. Some codes require them at least compatible) lights. Standard recessed lights will
PROJECT: Running cable and installing % inch away from wood and other flammables but local dangerously overheat when surrounded with
4 lights with a switch, in a codes may dictate a greater distance. Always follow insulation.
finished ceiling manufacturer's instructions. ■ Use bulbs of the recommended wattage or lower. Bulbs
If the joists are exposed, use a new-work can light (page with too-high wattage will dangerously overheat. When
99). For ceilings already covered by drywall or plaster and putting a number of cans on a dimmer, add up all the
lath, buy a remodel can (below) that clips into a hole cut in wattage and make sure your dimmer is rated to handle
EXPERIENCED: 1 day
the ceiling. It's also called an old-work, or retrofit, can. To the load.
HANDY: 1.5 days
install a remodel can, follow the steps beginning on page 98. ■ If you have less than 8 inches of vertical space above the
NOVICE: 2 days
ceiling, purchase a low-clearance canister.
TOOLS: Stud finder, drill with long bit,

drywall saw or hole-cutting drill
attachment, voltage tester or
multitester, wire strippers, lineman's
Mounting clips
pliers, screwdriver, safety glasses
MATERIALS: Can lights and trims,
switch box and switch, cable and
clamps, electrician's tape, wire nuts
Electrical box
A N A T O M Y OF A CAN LIGHT
A standard remodel canister fixture has an approved electrical box, suspended far enough from the light so it will not overheat.
A thermal protector shuts the light off if it becomes too hot (for example, if you use a bulb of too-high wattage). If you have
less than 8 inches of vertical space above your ceiling, purchase special cans designed to fit into this smaller space. Be sure
they are IC (insulation compatible) rated so there will be no danger of overheating.
96 WIRING 1-2-3
A can light that is rated insulation compatible (1C) will not overheat even if away from the heat. Ask about your local codes for can light installation. If
wrapped in insulation, and it is cool enough so you don't have to worry if it the joists are only 2x6 there are special low-clearance fixtures for the small
comes in contact with wood. Some codes require a "blue boot," or cover, space, as shown above. You can also buy special canister lights for a sloped
that is placed over in addition to a vapor barrier over that to keep insulation ceiling, which allow you to point the light straight down.
BUYER'S GUIDE
Eyeball trim Open trim Reflector trim
W atertight lens Black baffle trim W hite baffle trim
Some canister lights come with an integral trim, but most can accept various types of point where you want it. A black baffle makes the bulb less noticeable, while a
trim. Be sure to purchase a trim made by the manufacturer of your canister light. An white baffle makes it brighter. Place a wall-washer near a wall, to dramatize a
open trim exposes the lightbulb. Use a watertight lens in a shower or bathroom. textured wall.
A reflector trim makes the light a bit brighter. An eyeball
trim can be swiveled to
WIRING 1-2-3 97
H W h>
T M fc rB
1111181
'S / - '^ ir 'H:l

iMliga i
■ m s s OPTION B: USE A HOLE-CUTTING SAW
mmm This tool saves time and cuts holes precisely. You don't have to draw the
■ b s Lightly mark all light locations. Use a stud finder to make sure they do not
■ H E I® overlap a joist. Or drill a hole and poke a bent wire up into it to make sure outline of the hole on the ceiling; just mark the center point. Check to see
§S® C 5S
rnmmmi, at*
W tm S m the hole is entirely between joists. Use the template provided with the that you will not run into a joist. Check that the lights fit snugly without
light to draw a circle on the ceiling. Draw and cut each hole precisely. If the having to be forced into place. Note: This tool is costly (the saw and the
§ M - I hole is even a little too big, the can may not clamp tightly. Wearing safety arbor are sold separately), but it's worth the price if you have more than
glasses, cut the line lightly with a utility knife; then cut along the inside of six holes to cut through plaster. A less expensive tool (inset) is available for
WMBMESm the knife line with a drywall saw. Take care not to snag any wires that may cutting through drywall only.
H r e f be in the ceiling cavity.
Switch
- Switch
Run cable from a power source to a switch box
and then to the first hole, allowing at least 16
inches of extra cable to make wiring easy. (See W IR IN G PLAN FOR CAN LIGHTS
pages 117-131 for how to run cable.) Work Run power into a switch box, then run cable to (as shown), see page 68 for installing three-
carefully and use a drill with a long bit to avoid the cans in a serial manner. If you want to way switches. Where possible run cable
cutting additional access holes (pages 128-131) control the lights from two different switches alongside joists rather than across them.
that will need patching later.
98 WIRING 1-2-3
WIRE THE LIGHT MOUNT THE LIGHT
Open the light's junction box. Usually there's a plate that pops off. Run Most remodel cans have four clips that clamp the can to the ceiling by
cable into the box and clamp it. Strip insulation and make wire splices— pushing down on the top of the drywall or plaster. Pull the clips in so they
black to black, white to white, and ground to ground (pages 32-33). Fold do not protrude outside the can. Slip the can's box into the hole; then push
the wires into the box and replace the cover. the can body up into the hole until its flange is tight to the ceiling. With
your thumb or a screwdriver, push each clip up and outward until it clicks
and clamps the fixture.
CLOSER LOOK
ADD THE TRIM

If ceiling joists are exposed, this is an easy installation. On a workbench attach
Most trims are mounted with coil springs or squeezable rod springs (as
the plaster ring to the fixture. Adjust it to compensate for the thickness of the
shown). If you have coil springs: Hook each spring to its assigned hole
ceiling drywall that will be installed later. At the ceiling slide the mounting
inside the can (if it is not already there). Pull out each spring and hook it to
bars outward so they reach joists on each side. Hammer the four tabs into the
the trim; then carefully guide the trim into position. If you have rod
joists. Add 11/4-inch screws for extra strength.
springs, squeeze and insert both ends of each spring into their assigned
holes; then push the trim up.
WIRING 1-2-3 99
Undercabinet halogen lighting
f your cabinets are already installed and you real wiring; most of the connections can be made by poking
need to light the countertop surface below, one component into another. Most of the work will be
SKILLS: Basic wiring, assembling consider a halogen light kit that plugs into a running the cord through holes and stapling it out of sight.
components, attaching with staples receptacle. Not all codes allow this type of installation so you If you don't like using a cord switch, plug the kit into a
and screws may not find the kind of kit pictured below in your local receptacle controlled by a switch. If you don't already have a
PROJECT: Installing a system with store. Most kits do come with installation instructions and if switch-controlled receptacle, see page 71 for how to
four or five halogen lights those vary from what is shown below, follow the wire one.
manufacturers instructions. You can also purchase halogen lights that install with
A typical kit includes a transformer, cord, cord switch, new cable, like the fluorescent undercabinet lights shown on
several lights that attach to the underside of shelves or pages 103-104. This may be a better option if the cabinets
EXPERIENCED: 1 hr.
cabinets, and detailed instructions. There is little in the way of have not yet been installed.
HANDY: 2 hrs.
NOVICE: 3 hrs.
TOOLS: Drill, screwdriver, wire

strippers, hammer
MATERIALS: Halogen light kit
0 SAFETY ALERT
HALOGEN SAFETY TIPS

Halogens provide intense, almost
glittering light, and they get hot.
Position them where people won't
brush against them. Don't attach
them to particleboard that may
scorch. Use halogens in a closet only
if you are sure they will always be
18 inches or more away from
clothing or boxes. If you use them in
small, enclosed spaces, such as
shelves with glass doors, reduce the
heat by replacing a 20-watt bulb ATTACH THE LIGHTS ROUTE AND STAPLE THE CORD
with a 10-watt bulb. Drill a grid of Position each light near the back of the cabinet, but follow Run cord from each light toward a central location near the
1/4-inch air vent holes in the cabinet manufacturer's instructions for placement so you do not receptacle you will plug into. Work carefully, so the cord is
above the halogen lights. overheat the wall. Measure to be sure the screws will not fairly taut, and staple it where it will be least visible. You may
■ Halogens are very bright. poke through to the inside of the cabinet above. Drive screws choose to drill holes in the cabinets, run cords through the
Position them so they will be out to fasten each light. holes, and make connections inside a cabinet.
of sight.
■ Never use a halogen bulb
without the lens, which filters UV
rays.
■ Do not touch a bulb with your
skin; natural oils will damage a
bulb. Always handle halogen
bulbs with a soft cloth.
100 WIRING 1-2-3

W IR E A PLUG CONNECT TO A N EXTENSION CORD PLUG IN
To connect the cord to a plug, remove the plug's Bundle the cords neatly, and plug them into an Route the extension cord to a receptacle and plug it
cover, poke the cord in, and replace the cover to extension cord. You may choose to build a small in. In the example shown a combination
anchor the cord and make the electrical connection. wooden casing around the cords to keep them from switch/receptacle is wired so that the receptacle is
Be sure to place the ribbed wire (which is the getting bumped by plates and glasses. controlled by the switch; see page 71 for how to
neutral wire) as instructed. make these connections.
In another type of installation, a

transformer is plugged into a
receptacle, and wires lead from
the transformer to the lights. In Power block
the example shown the Plug-in halogen light
transformer is plugged into a
receiver module that is controlled
by a remote-control switch, which
can be placed anywhere in the
room (see page 95). If the
transformer steps the power
down, smaller gauge wires can
be used to run from the
transformer to the lights, check
Receiver module
the manufacturer's
for rem ote switch
recommendations.
120-volt
receptacle
WIRING 1-2-3 101

Installing fluorescent lighting
CLOSER LOOK
SKILLS: Attaching with screws,
stripping and splicing wires
PROJECT: Installing a fluorescent ■ If an old fluorescent light needs a new ballast (pages 211-
light fixture 212), consider replacing the fixture. Newer fluorescents with
electronic ballasts are trouble-free for decades.
■ Save energy costs by replacing an incandescent ceiling
light with a fluorescent.
■ Today's fluorescent tubes offer a greater variety of light
HANDY: 1 hr.
than in years past (page 54). A diffusing lens further
NOVICE: 2 hrs.
softens the light.

pliers, drill with screwdriver bit INSTALLING A FLUORESCENT
MATERIALS: Fluorescent fixture, wire Shut off power at the service panel. Remove the old fixture.
nuts, screws Clamp the cable to a knockout in the new fixture and attach the
fixture directly to the ceiling by driving screws into joists. Splice
the fixture's wires to the incoming wires. Attach the cover.
luorescent lights often

are installed without a
ceiling box: Cable is
clamped to the fixture, which
substitutes for a box. However,
some codes require that
fluorescent lights be attached to
ceiling boxes. Suspend the fixture
or set it in a suspended ceiling grid
and make the connections. Square
or rectangular fixtures with long
tubes are the most common. Other
fluorescent fixtures are shaped like
incandescents and use circular or
U-shape tubes.
Because the lights can be
heavy, codes often require that a
safety chain connects the light to
the joists above so that should the
hanging ceiling fall, the heavy light
will stay in place.
INSTALLING FLUORESCENTS IN A SUSPENDED CEILING
Fluorescent fixtures fit into the ceiling grid, taking up the extend the incoming line), install the grid, then attach the
space of a 2x2-foot (shown) or 2x4-foot ceiling tile. For cable to the fixture, leaving more than enough cable to reach
smaller fixtures install additional metal grid pieces and cut the power source. Connect to the power source before
ceiling tiles to fit in either side. When you've established your adding the tiles.
power source for the lights (see pages 125-126 for how to
102 WIRING 1-2-3

Adding undercabinet
fluorescent lights
ndercabinet lighting brightens work surfaces and standard 1'16-inch lights, but they are more difficult to wire
adds pleasing visual depth to kitchens. and require special reducing cable clamps. Get the longest
SKILLS: Running new cable and Fluorescent lighting is a cool, low-energy light lights possible for the available under-cabinet spaces; you'll
connecting to power, attaching light source. If you need only one or two lights, consider buying probably need several sizes.
fixtures, stripping and splicing wires, small fluorescent fixtures with cords and switches. However, Some codes require that you run armored cable or
wiring a switch you won't want to turn on three or more lights every time conduit through walls; others allow exposed armored or
PROJECT: Removing the backsplash, you walk into the kitchen. If you want a series of lights nonmetallic (NM) cable. Codes may require you to pull power
cutting holes, running cable, wiring controlled by a wall switch, buy fixtures without cords or from a source other than a countertop receptacle. Check with
four lights, and reinstalling the switches. Lights that are only 1 inch thick are sleeker than your building department.
backsplash
EXPERIENCED: 1 day
HANDY: 1.5 days
NOVICE: 2 days
TOOLS: Multitester or voltage tester,

lineman's pliers, side-cutting pliers,
longnose pliers, wire strippers,
drywall saw, screwdriver, drill with
spade bit, utility knife, flat pry bar
MATERIALS: Undercabinet fluorescent
lights, armored or NM cable,
electrician's tape, wire nuts, cable
clamps, cable staples, switch box,
nailing plates
RUN CABLE
Plan the wiring so as many holes as possible will enter the lights. Cut carefully so the hole will be covered
be covered when you're done. If the countertop when the light is installed. Cut a hole for the switch box, and
backsplash is removable, remove it and cut a channel in the run cable into it from a power source—perhaps a nearby
drywall or plaster that will be completely covered by the receptacle (pages 129, 141-142). Do not connect the cable
backsplash. Drill holes in the studs to accommodate cable to power. Run cable from the switch box to the hole for the
(pages 125-127). (If you can't remove a backsplash, allow first light, then from the first to the second light, and so on.
time for patching and painting the wall afterward. Or install Let about 16 inches of cable hang from the holes so you'll
tile between the countertop and the wall cabinets.) Examine have plenty of slack to make connections. Most local codes
each light to determine exactly where the cable will enter allow fluorescent lights to be used as junction boxes, so you
and exit. Cut narrow holes in the wall where the cable will can string the wire from light to light. Check to be sure.
WIRING 1-2-3 103

GOOD IDEA
If your cabinets have space above,

you can install lights there without
hiding the cable.
ATTACH THE LIGHTS WIRE THE LIGHTS
Disassemble the lights, and remove the lens and fluorescent Plan so that wires will not come within an inch of the ballast.
tubes. Clamp each cable to the light as you would clamp Splice wires with the leads inside the light, black to black and
cable to a box (pages 119 and 121). Have a helper hold the white to white. Bend the wires so they will not get in the
light as close to the rear wall as possible while you drive way, then gently push the bottom portion of the light into
screws through the light and into the underside of the position. If it does not go in easily, take it down and realign
cabinet. Be sure that the screws won't poke through to the the wires for an easier fit. Attach the base.
inside of the cabinet.
TIME SAVER
Cut holes in the cabinets. Lay BX or MC cable on Attach the lights under the cabinets, string cable
the inside. Plan exactly where the cable will under the cabinet, and staple the cable in place
enter each light below the cabinet. Because you using cable staples. Measure and cut carefully
can't slip excess cable into the wall cabinet, you'll so the cable is flat along the length. Check your
WIRE THE SWITCH have to cut the cable precisely. (See pages local code before doing this; it is not allowed in
Install a switch box (pages 132-133). Splice the white wires 120-121 about working with armored cable.) some areas.
together. Attach each of the black wires to a single-pole
switch. (If you wish to dim the light, use a dimmer made
especially for fluorescent fixtures.) Connect the ground wire
to the switch and to the box if it is metal. Cover the terminals
with tape. Shut off power to the receptacle or junction
box that will supply the power. Splice white to white and
black to a black or color wire in the receptacle (page 22).
Restore power.
104 WIRING 1-2-3

Planning for
new services
BUYING TOOLS TO RUN NEW LINES
COMMON CODE REQUIREMENTS
MAPPING A JOB
LOADING CIRCUITS CORRECTLY
CHOOSING BOXES
INSTALLING STRAPS AND STAPLES
nee you are comfortable with projects like replacing devices and
fixtures, you're ready to go -n o t boldly, but carefully—where few
homeowners dare to tread. You're ready to add new electrical
service. "New service" refers to running new cable. It can be as simple as tapping into
a receptacle to add a new line (page 141) or as complex as installing several new
circuits in a subpanel (pages 194-195).
This chapter helps you ask the right questions and come up with the best solutions
so your new installation will do what you want it to do, and do it safely. You'll learn
which tools and materials to buy, how to balance loads on a circuit
and draw plans, and how to anticipate code requirements.
WIRING 1-2-3 105

Buying tools to run new lines
he money you pay for quality electrical tools will power or capacity to drill numerous holes in walls and
a be minor compared to how much you'll save by

doing the work yourself. To run new lines you
framing.) Have several %-inch and M-inch spade bits on hand;
they dull quickly. A fishing bit drills holes in hard-to-reach
will need most of the tools shown here as well as thosejoists
pages 28-29. Buy everything you need; the job will go
more smoothly.
on and studs. The bender helps you aim the bit where you
want it to go. Once the hole is drilled, the bender has a
pulling attachment that allows you to pull the cable with
the bit.
For c u ttin g in to w a lls Use a drywall saw to cut small holes in drywall. To cut
These tools pave the way for installing electrical cable and through plaster and lath, use a saber saw with a fine-cutting
boxes. The right tools, along with sharp bits and blades, will blade, or use a rotary-cutting tool. A flat pry bar is ideal for
do the least damage to walls, saving you patching time trim removal and modest demolition. A utility knife is an
REMT A RIGHT-ANGLE DRILL afterward. Consider buying a corded power drill with a essential all-purpose tool.
If you need to drill, say, 20 holes jfinch chuck for large bits. (A cordless drill may not have the
or more through studs or joists,
you probably should rent a 16-inch
PLANNING FOR NEW SERVICES
right-angle drill.
Bender
Fishing bit
i
Pulling
attachm ent Flat pry bar
Drywall saw Utility knife
»
' •
106 WIRING 1-2-3

Ham m er
Armored cable cutter
Calculator
Rotary screwdriver \
Conduit
reamer Magnetic sleeve and bit
Coaxial crimper
Hacksaw
Coaxial stripper
Spade for installing

underground lines
For ru n n in g n e w lin e s
Complete your kit with these relatively inexpensive tools. To drive screws quickly and firmly, nothing beats a drill
When working with armored cable, you may want to use an with a magnetic sleeve. Insert small screwdriver bits into its
armored cable cutter (see page 120 for cutting armored tip, and they will be magnetized so you can drive screws
cable). For figuring circuit loads use a handheld calculator. A with one hand. With a rotary screwdriver, you can drive
fish tape helps you run cable through finished walls and pul! or remove small screws on cover plates, switches, and
wires through conduit. Sometimes you need two tapes so receptacles in a flash.
that you can hook them together (page 127). New fiberglass You may need a pair of water pump pliers for handling
tapes are safer and easier to use than metal tapes. connectors. Cut conduit with a hacksaw equipped with a
Buy an electrician's tool belt so you won't fumble around professional-quality blade that will last longer. After cutting
for tools. You'll use a hammer to tap locknuts tight onto the conduit, remove burrs with a conduit reamer. For coaxial
cable clamps. If a box or fixture has bolts instead of screws, cable use a crimper and a stripper. Use a narrow spade to
you'll need a nut driver. Use a level to mark cutouts on walls excavate for outdoor cable.
and square up boxes.
WIRING 1-2-3 107
Common code requirements
t's your house and you're doing the work You can buy a copy of the CEC, but it costs about $125
REAL WORLD
W ORKING W ITH A N
INSPECTOR
A Homeowner's Story:
O yourself. Why should a city inspector come
around and tell you what to do? Codes and
experience of nearly a century of living with electricity. Those

lessons have been incorporated into electrical codes. These
and is difficult to wade through. Most of its many pages deal
with commercial installations that homeowners will never
inspections are a sort of collective wisdom based on the
encounter. Many useful handbooks on the CEC are available.
Buy one, or borrow one from a library, that emphasizes
residential installations.
The first time I m et with an codes exist to prevent house fires and injury from shocks and
inspector, the whole process to keep your electrical system running well. C oordinating th e tasks
bugged me. I made a quick If you are building an addition to your house or gutting walls
drawing and scrawled out a M e e tin g n a tio n a l, provincial, a n d local codes to remodel a kitchen or bathroom, you'll need to juggle
materials list. It was kind of a Whenever you run new electrical cable, your local building carpentry, plumbing, and wall and floor finishing. Whether
mess. The inspector got irritated, I department will require you to get a permit and have the you do all or some of the work yourself, it's important that
argued back, and w e were off to work approved by one of its inspectors. Inspectors and the various jobs are coordinated so that workers do not get in
a bad start. The fact is, he pointed building departments use the Canadian Electrical Code (CEC) the way of each other and so that inspectors can see what
out a dangerously overloaded as the basis for most of their regulations. However, local they need to inspect. Aim for this sequence: (1) Install
circuit I was planning to install standards often supplement or modify these basic rules. framing or gut the walls. (2) Run the rough plumbing, install
and a junction box I was going to You'll find some of the most common code requirements electrical cable and boxes, and then call in the inspector. (3)
drywall over. Both would have in the chart on the opposite page. The list is not complete, Cover the walls with drywall, and paint. (4) Install the finish
been dangerous. I came away however, and you may need other sources of information. plumbing and electrical, and have it inspected.
G FOR NEW SERV
grateful that he stood his ground.
Working w ith inspectors

Inspectors usually work with professional electricians who while the inspector talks to you so you can remember
know codes and what is expected at inspections. Inspectors every detail of what needs to be done.
usually have a tight schedule and can't take time to educate ■ Be clear on when the inspections will take place and
you about what is needed. Their job is to inspect, not to help exactly what needs to be done before each inspection.
you plan your project. Take these steps to ensure that the Before calling for an inspection, double-check that
inspections go smoothly. everything required is complete—don't make the
■ Before scheduling an inspection, ask the building inspector come back again. Don't cover up wiring that the
department for printed information about your type of inspector needs to see. If you install drywall before the
electrical project. Make neat, readable, and complete inspection, you may have to rip it out and reinstall it after
drawings (pages 110-111), and provide a list of the inspection.
the materials. ■ Some building departments limit the kinds of work that a
■ When you present your plans, accept criticisms and homeowner can do; you may have to hire a professional
directives graciously. It usually does no good to argue— for at least part of a job. Others will let you take on
and the inspector does know more than you do. Make it advanced work only if you can pass an oral or written test.
clear that you want to do things the right way. Take notes
108 WIRING 1-2-3

Here's a quick summary of some codes that are typical for requirements in order to provide you with sufficient and
household wiring projects. Follow them as you work up your safe electrical service,
plans and write your materials list. The more you communicate your specific plans and
These guidelines should satisfy most requirements, but techniques to your inspector, the less chance that you will
keep in mind that your local codes might have different have to tear out and do the job over again. It's better to be
requirements. You probably will want to exceed set straight by your inspector when the job is still on paper.
CABLE TYPE Most locales allow NMD (nonmetallic) cable for all installations where the cable runs inside walls or ceilings. Some areas
require armored cable or conduit. If the cable will be exposed, many local codes require armored cable or conduit.
WIRE GAUGE Use #14 wire for 15-amp circuits, #12 wire for 20-amp circuits, #10 wire for 30-amp circuits and #8 wire for 40-am circuits.
PLASTIC AND METAL BOXES Many locales allow plastic boxes for receptacles, switches, and fixtures; but some require metal boxes. Boxes must be flush
with the finished wall. Make sure boxes are large enough for their conductors and connections(page 112).

RUNNING CABLE NMD and armored cable must be run through holes in the center of studs or joists so that a drywall or trim nail cannot reach
it. Most codes require metal nail guards as well. Some inspectors want cable for receptacles to be run about 10 inches above
the receptacles. NMD cable should be stapled to a stud or joist within 12 inches of the box it enters. Once the cable is
clamped to a box, at least 1/4 inch of sheathing, but no more than % inch, should be visible in the box, and at least 8 inches of
wire should be available for connecting to the device or fixture.
CIRCUIT CAPACITY Make sure usage does not exceed "safe capacity" (pages 48-49). Local codes may be stricter.
LIVING ROOM, DINING Space receptacles every 12 feet along each wall, and 6 feet from the first opening. If a small section of wall (between two
ROOM, FAMILY ROOM, AND doors, for example) is more than 3 feet wide, it should have a receptacle. For most purposes, use 15-amp receptacles. For
BEDROOM SPECS convenience, rooms should have at least one light controlled by a wall switch near the entry door. The switch may control an
overhead light for living rooms or bedrooms, or one outlet of a receptacle into which you can plug a lamp. If you are adding a
ceiling fan make sure the box you attach it to is designed for fans and can support the additional weight.
HALLWAY AND STAIRWAY A stairway must have an overhead light controlled by three-way switches at the bottom and top of the stairs. If a hallway is
SPECS more than 15 feet long, it must have at least one receptacle.
KITCHEN SPECS Above countertops, space receptacles no more than 4 feet apart. Outlets near a water source such as a sink must be
protected with GFCI circuit breakers. Many codes require split receptacles on 15 amp circuits in kitchens or outlets that
alternate which circuit they are connected to. The codes may also require a separate 15-amp circuit for both the dishwasher
and refrigerator. A microwave should have a single 20-amp circuit and use a T-slot receptacle.
BATHROOM SPECS Any GFCI receptacle should be on its own circuit. Install the lights and fan on a separate 15- or 20-amp circuit.
GARAGE AND WORKSHOP Install a 15-amp circuit for lights and a 20-amp circuit for tools. Install two 20-amp circuits if you have many power tools.
SPECS Many areas require GFCIs in garages. Check your local code.
WIRING 1-2-3 109

Mapping a job
uilding departments require detailed drawings As you draw make a list of materials, tallying the number
Q and comprehensive lists of materials before

issuing permits. To save yourself and the
clear and complete.

of boxes, devices, and fixtures, and roughly figuring how
much cable you will need.
inspector aggravation, do your best to make your drawing
D o n 't fo rg e t
Check and double-check your drawing and your list.
D ra w a p la n ■ Make sure none of the circuits is overloaded (pages
If you'll be wiring existing space, measure the rooms and 112-113).
make a scale drawing on graph paper. If you have blueprints ■ See that switches are conveniently placed to easily turn
for a new addition, use those. Make several copies of the on lights.
floor plan so you can start over if you make mistakes. Include ■ Consider how each room will be used, and add devices
windows, doors, cabinets, and other obstructions. where necessary. For instance, a home office with a
Begin by drawing in all the switches, receptacles, and computer should have a dedicated circuit.
fixtures, using the symbols below. Then use color pencils to ■ Make sure all your boxes will be large enough (page 114).
draw the cable runs. Use a different color for each circuit. ■ Remember that if you add circuits, you may need to
Mark each cable-for example, "1 4 /2 WG" for a cable with expand service with a subpanel (pages 21 and 194-195),
two #14 wires and a ground wire. a new service panel (pages 19-20), or even a new line
from the utility to your house. Determine how to run cable
to the service panel or subpanel.
Basic electrical symbol chart

Use these symbols as you plan your project. They'll be easily understood by your inspector.
® 5, ©
Recessed ceiling light Duplex receptacle 240-volt polarized Single-pole switch Thermostat
receptacle
•0- =©* Si to
Ceiling light Split-wired duplex Isolated ground Double-pole switch Indoor telephone
receptacle receptacle
-o Ss -0
Wall light GFCI receptacle Weatherproof receptacle; 3-way switch Television jack
m u VZStZBl O*
£2
O
Fluorescent Switched receptacle Service panel 4-way switch Doorbell
ceiling light
© © 5, £3“
Fan Fourplex receptacle Split receptacle Wall junction box Switch w ith tim er Chime
110 WIRING 1-2-3

MAKE A PLAN
Draw a floor plan of your project and make an extra copy or making your materials list). When you're satisfied with your
two. Use color pencils to distinguish your circuits. Add plan, make a clean version to copy for the city and for your
symbols for the various devices (they'll be useful when own use.
WIRING 1-2-3 111

Loading circuits correctly
hen planning to add new service to your home, spaces are taken up, you may be able to add service by
ask three important questions: First, will any installing a tandem breaker (page 117).
individual circuit become overloaded as a result Older homes with fuse boxes often receive 60-amp
of adding service? Second, is your service panel large enough service from the utility company. If your wiring
to accommodate any new circuits you will be adding? And is less than 40 years old, your home probably has 100-amp
finally, is the power entering your home from the utility service. Larger homes built in the last 15 years may have
company sufficient for your needs? 200-amp service. The total amperage for your home is
usually written on the main breaker or fuse.
L o a d in g in d iv id u a l circuits
If you will be extending an existing circuit to add a receptacle G ot e n o u g h p o w e r?
or a light fixture, make sure you won't overload that circuit. Circuits can add up to more than their total rating. If you add
List all the receptacles, fixtures, and appliances on that circuit, up the amperage of all the breakers in the box, you wiil
and then add the wattage of the new service to determine probably find that the total is more than the overall rating of
whether you will be within "safe usage." (See pages 48-49 the service panel. For example, a 100-amp service panel
to make this calculation.) may have breakers totaling 220 amps. This does not mean
that it is over capacity.
S izing u p a s ervice p a n e l The amperage rating tells you how much amperage each
If existing circuits are not large enough to accommodate the hot bus bar (page 19-21) delivers. So each vertical row of
new service you want to install, or if you will be wiring an breakers on a 100-amp box delivers 100 amps. And the
addition, install new circuits. breakers on a single bar can exceed the total capacity,
Open your service panel (see page 46). If you see because all the lights, fixtures, receptacles, and appliances
available blank slots, adding a circuit will be easy. If all the will never run at the same time.
Sizing electrical boxes

Electrical codes specify the size box needed so that the
connections, wires, and switch or receptacle are not too
crowded in the box. Factors that influence the size of the box
include the thickness or gauge of the wire, the number of
wires entering the box, the number of connections in the
box, and even the type of receptacle (GFCI receptacles are
larger and therefore may require a larger box).
Typically boxes are rated to hold a certain number of
wires. To calculate the number of wires a box will need to
hold, add the wires entering the box, excluding ground
wires, and then add \ wire for each wire nut or connector in
the box. After you have this number you will then be able to
ask for the correct size box when purchasing it. Two
examples are pictured at right.
A THREE WAY SWITCH A RECEPTACLE
As a general rule, you should buy large boxes unless you
A three way switch uses two black wires, two A receptacle at the end of the line has only a
don't have room in your wall or ceiling. The bigger boxes
whites, one red, and two wire connector white, a black and a wire nut connecting the
don't cost much more, and they will give you room for
thereby determining the size box to use. grounding wires thereby determining the size of
upgrades in the future.
the box to use.
112 WIRING 1-2-3

BUYER'S GUIDE
A home with more than 2,000 square feet will If your situation involves complex circuits, consult X
probably need more than 60-amp service. A house with the utility company. They often have services to NEED M ORE CIRCUITS?
with less than 4,000 square feet that doesn't have help you to ensure safe operation of your electrical Here are some options if you need more circuits
electric heat or central air-conditioning probably needs system or they can point you in the right direction. than your service panel can provide.
no more than 100-amp service.
S h o p p in g fo r a p p lia n c e s
C o m p u tin g y o u r e x a c t p o w e r n e e d s See the example of dishwasher below which
To more accurately determine whether you have shows both electrical energy used and estimates of
enough service, compute your home's electrical usage yearly costs when used with electric or gas water
in watts. (Remember, watts=volts x amps; page 48). heaters. If you are replacing an existing appliance try
■ Add the total wattage used by all permanent to buy one that requires less energy because you can
appliances, such as the dishwasher, clothes dryer, be assured the new one won't overload the existing
and electric range. circuit. Purchase price is not the only factor to consider
■ Next add it all up. when buying a new appliance. Use these labels for
A D D A TANDEM BREAKER
■ Add the wattage of either the central air- comparing operating costs so you are a smart shopper.
You may be able to install a tandem breaker,

conditioning or the heating unit, whichever is
which supplies two circuits but uses only one
greater.
slot. Check local codes to see whether tandem
■ Divide by 230 to figure how many amps you need.
breakers are allowed for your service panel. You
may need to install a subpanel (pages 194-195)
or a new service panel instead. If you need a
CLOSER LOOK new service panel contact a professional
Uv$. ©jwwww&hI 'm electrician
Canada
E N E R 0|U ID E
C o m p a r e t h e E n e r g y U s e o f this D i s h w a s h e r Energy consumption / Consommation dnergetique
with O t h e r s B e for e Y o u Buy.
This Model Uses

685 KWWyeat
U ses Least U ses M o st

E n e rg y Energy Uses least energy / Uses most energy /
344 m Consomme ie moins
d’energie
Consomme ie plus
d’energle
kWh/year (kilowatt-hours per yearjis«i measure ot energy {electricity! use. State models PortaWe/Mobile Models* stateres
Your utility company uses it 10 compute your bitt, Only standard sii®dishwashers compared compares
Model number (®-I5~STD Numdro du models
Dishwashers using more energy cost more to operate.

This model’s estimated yearly operating cost is:
m
When ussd with eiectscwste?heater When use#w&i a na&raj waterheater USE A BREAKER BOX EQUIPPED
d
Basedmsixwashfoasteaweekanda 1SST U,S. onalaveragecost
8.31$ p u r K W & f o r e t e c & i c f t ? n a t w s i g a s . You?jKtutf/GpKtftoS'
coat varydejMntfngonyourJoeafuijfefyratesandyou?use ofthepro-iSuct FOR NEW CIRCUITS
This box has plenty of room for new circuits.
INFORMATIVE LABELING
A standard 120-volt breaker will take up one
All major appliances such as air conditioners, water heaters, and refrigerators are required
slot, and a 240-volt breaker will use two spaces.
to carry labels that will tell you how energy efficient the unit is and how much it will cost
to operate for a year under normal conditions and average use. Read the label carefully
before you buy.
WIRING 1-2-3 113

Choosing boxes
ll electrical connections must be contained inside
a
Two-gang
a box. And all boxes—including junction boxes- boxes
must be accessible. Never cover a box with
drywall or paneling. Some fixtures, such as recessed cans and
fluorescent lights, contain their own boxes so connections
can be made inside them.
Be sure to buy boxes large enough to avoid crowding the
wires (page 44).
P lastic b o xes
In many areas plastic boxes are the norm for all indoor
residential wiring. They are inexpensive and quick to install.
To install most new-work boxes, position and drive in the
two nails. To install remodel boxes (boxes installed in walls
already covered by drywall or plaster), see pages 132-133.
Of course, you cannot ground a plastic box. For that

reason some local codes do not allow them, or they allow
them only for certain purposes.
Some plastic boxes have holes with knockout tabs, so
the cable is not held tightly in place by the box. In that case PVC outdoor box
you must staple the cable within 8 inches of the box. Other
boxes have built-in metal or plastic cable clamps or staples.
Check local codes to see whether clamps are required.
Plastic boxes are easier to damage than metal boxes.
When installing a new-work box, all it takes is one wrong
swing with your hammer to crack the box. Never install a
box that is cracked. Buy several extra boxes just
Ceiling
in case.
remodel
Most plastic boxes are brittle, so don't use them where box
they are not built into the wall. The exception is an outdoor
box made of especially strong PVC plastic.
Remodel box
w ith ears
114 WIRING 1-2-3

M e ta l boxes
Even if the local building department does not require metal boxes, you
may prefer them because they are stronger and provide a better ground
connection. Many codes require that all junction boxes-and all exposed
boxes-be metal (with the exception of an outdoor PVC box, shown on the
opposite page). If a system uses conduit or armored cable and does not
have a ground wire, the boxes must be metal in order to provide a
grounding path to the cable or conduit.
New-work metal boxes often have nailing brackets. Position the box
and drive screws or nails through the holes and into a stud or joist.
To open a knockout hole in a metal box, punch it with a hammer and
screwdriver; then grab the slug from the inside with lineman's pliers and
twist it off. Install a cable clamp if the box does not have built-in clamps.
Gangable boxes can be dismantled and ganged together to make
space for two or more devices.
Install most switch boxes and ceiling boxes flush with the finished
wall or ceiling surface. Install a junction box \ inch behind the wall surface
and add a mud ring—also called an adapter plate—which has screw holes

for the cover plate. Choose a 4x4 junction box or a larger 411/i6-inch box.
Make sure the cover plate or mud ring will fit the box. If a junction box
holds only spliced wires and no device, cover it with a metal blank plate if
it is exposed and a plastic blank plate if it will be enclosed in a wall.
Use round-cornered junction boxes called handy boxes if the box will
be exposed on a basement or garage wall. Use metal cover plates. For a
ceiling fan use a fan-rated box (pages 90-92).
WIRING 1-2-3 115

Installing straps and staples
able, whether hidden in a wall or exposed, must
Q be installed carefully to keep it from being

damaged. Codes specify how and where each
type of cable must be anchored. A staple holds the cable
firmly without damaging its sheathing. Staples with plastic
parts are better because they are less likely to damage the
sheathing than the once-popular metal staples. Choose the
right size staples to fit the cable.
When running cable along joists or studs, secure NM or
armored cable at least Vh inches back from the front edge of
the framing member (to protect it from drywall screws),
using a cable staple every 1.5 meters or 59 inches. Staple
cable within 12 inches of a box that has a clamp and within 8
inches of a box that does not have a clamp. Never secure
two cables with a single staple.
Use drive straps (below) for conduit; you can use one- or
two-hole straps for either armored cable or conduit. When CHOOSING THE RIGHT STAPLE
attaching a one-hole or a two-hole strap to wood, use a drill A staple should hug the cable tightly without denting it. To
to drive in 11/i-inch screws. To anchor a strap to concrete, attach it position the staple over the cable, taking care that
block, or brick, drill holes with a masonry bit and drive the nails do not touch the cable, and hammer in the nails. If
masonry screws into the holes. you have a lot of telephone cable to install, purchase a staple
gun that drives in round-topped staples (page 182).
ANCHORING CONDUIT TO WOOD ANCHORING ARMORED CABLE TO WOOD

Use hook-like drive straps to attach conduit to wood. Hold the Fasten a strap in place with a 11/i-inch general-purpose screw.
drive strap next to the conduit, and pound the strap in until it Use two-hole straps to install two parallel lines. Place the
firmly grips the conduit. Place straps every 4 feet and within cable straps every 3 to 4 feet.
12 inches of a box.
116 WIRING 1-2-3

Running new cable
WORKING WITH NM CABLE
WORKING WITH ARMORED CABLE
RUNNING CONDUIT
WIRING IN UNFINISHED FRAMING
WIRING FINISHED ROOMS
INSTALLING REMODELING BOXES
PATCHING WALLS
INSTALLING A JUNCTION BOX
INSTALLING RACEWAY WIRING
efore you start to run new lines, complete your wiring plan
Q (Chapter 7) and get city approval for your project. Next be sure
to have a basic understanding of your home's electrical system
(Chapter 1) and be comfortable with basic wiring techniques (Chapter 2). You'll find
that installing boxes and cable in new framing is straightforward-even fun-once
you've mastered the techniques. Running new lines in old walls is more challenging,
especially if there isn't an attic or crawl space in which to run the lines. With planning,
a few new skills, and the right tools, you'll get the job done right.
WIRING 1-2-3 117

Working with NM cable
ou'll find nonmetallic (NM) cable easy to cut and
SKILLS: Careful cutting with a knife

and side-cutting pliers
PROJECT: Stripping sheathing from
the end of one cable and clamping it
O quick to install. Just be careful when you remove
the sheathing so you don't accidentally slit the
wire insulation. If you do, cut off the damage and start again;
otherwise, you may get a short or a shock. Whenever
possible, strip sheathing before cutting the cable to length.
to a box
That way if you make a mistake, you can try again.
There are several separate conductors inside a cable.
Most commonly used in residential construction are two- and
EXPERIENCED: 5 min. three-wire cables. Two-wire cable with a ground has a black
HANDY: 10 min. wire for power, a white wire for the neutral line, and an
NOVICE: 15 min. uninsulated copper wire for the ground. So it may confuse
some homeowners when they see three "wires" in the
cable. Only the two that are insulated, the black and the
white wires, count for naming the cable. Thus the name
TOOLS: Utility knife, lineman's pliers, Cut or pull back the sheathing so you can grab the end of the
8 2-wire cable. If the wires in the cable are 12 gauge wires the
side-cutting pliers ground wire with lineman's pliers. Hold the cable end in the
cable is designated as 12-2 W/G with the 12 indicating
MATERIALS: Nonmetallic (NM) cable other hand, and pull back the ground wire until you have
gauge or size, the 2 indicating the number of wires, and the
made a slit in the sheathing about 12 inches long. This
W/G indicating "with ground." It is a similar story with three
RUNNING NEW CABLE
technique is common practice among electricians, but pay

wire cable. Typically in three wire cable you'll find black and
extra attention because you can damage the ground wire
red wires for power and a white wire for neutral that are
while pulling it out.
insulated. If the cable has a grounding wire there will also be
a uninsulated copper wire in the nonmetallic (NM) sheath.
USING A CABLE RIPPER

Use this tool to strip cable that is
already installed in a box. Practice SLITTING THE CABLE W ITH A KNIFE CAN BE DANGEROUS
on scrap cable first to make sure the Pull the plastic sheathing back. Peel off any protective paper Although commonly used in a pinch, slitting the cable with a
ripper doesn't cut too deeply and wrapping or thin strips of plastic, and cut them off. knife can nick the insulation of the wires inside the cable leading
damage wire insulation. to a potentially dangerous situation. If at all possible use the
cable ripper as shown in the Tool Savvy at left.
118 WIRING 1-2-3

CLOSER LOOK
CABLE CLAMP POKE AND STAPLE

SNIP THE SHEATHING
Buy clamps made for NM cable. Remove the To run cable into many plastic boxes, you may
Use side-cutting pliers, wire strippers, or the cutting portion o
knockout. Screw the clamp to the cable, then slip need to push the cable past a plastic flap or knock
of lineman's pliers to cut the sheathing.
it through the hole and screw on the locknut. out a plastic tab. Once you've inserted the cable
Tighten the locknut by tapping with a hammer into the box, staple the cable on a framing
RUNNING NEW CABLE

and screwdriver. Or attach to the box first, slide the member within 8 inches of the box.
cable through the clamp, then tighten the screws.
BUILT-IN CLAMP POP-IN PLASTIC CONNECTOR

PULL THE CABLE INTO THE BOX Plastic boxes large enough to hold more than one Remove the knockout and push this connector in
Push the wires through the clip or clamp on the box (see device have internal clamps, as do most remodel place. Then push the cable through and, if
right for the types you'll find). Pull the cable into the box so boxes. Tighten the screw to firmly clamp the cable. accessible, staple the cable within 8 inches of
at least \ inch of sheathing shows inside. the box.
WIRING 1-2-3 119

Working with armored cable
he features of flexible armored cable fall midway
SKILLS: Bending and cutting

sheathing, protecting wires
PROJECT: Stripping cable sheathing
and clamping it
a between NM and conduit. Armored cable is easier
to install than conduit and less flexible than NM. It
protects wires better than NM but won't turn away nails as
well as conduit.
Types o f a rm o re d c a b le
There are two types of armored cable. BX cable (also called
AC90) is a type of armored cable with a ground wire. Older BX
EXPERIENCED: 5 min.
used heavy steel sheathing. Today's cable uses aluminum,
HANDY: 10 min.
which is lighter, is a better conductor, and is much easier to cut.
NOVICE: 15 min.
MC cable is like BX but with a green-insulated grounding
wire. Some new building codes require using MC instead of BX
B M iilii for a sure ground.
TOOLS: Side-cutting pliers, hammer,
screwdriver, channel-joint pliers, W h e re to use it
8
perhaps an armored cable cutter Some codes call for armored cable instead of NM. Others B END A N D SQUEEZE THE CABLE
MATERIALS: BX or MC cable, require NM or conduit where the cable is exposed. Run About 1 foot from the end, bend the cable and then squeeze
protective bushings armored cable inside walls, and protect it from nails as you the bend until the armor breaks apart slightly. If you have
RUNNING NEW CABLE
would NM cable. Armored cable will bend only so far, so use trouble doing this by hand, use a pair of channel-joint pliers.
NM around wall corners (page 125-127) and around door
jambs (page 131). Caution:
Sharp edges! Handle
armored cable carefully
to avoid cuts.
HACKSAWS CAN BE DANGEROUS USING AN ARMORED CABLE CUTTER

Cutting armored cable with a hacksaw is generally For large jobs you may want to invest in this tool.
not recommended. It is very difficult to cut Adjust the cutter for cable size, slip in the cable,
through the armor without nicking the insulation and turn the handle to make a lengthwise cut.
of the wires inside which could lead to a
dangerous short.
120 WIRING 1-2-3

Grasp the cable firmly on each side of the spot you Cut through one rib of the armor with a pair of side Remove paper wrapping and plastic strips. Leave
want to cut. Twist the waste end clockwise until the cutting pliers. Slide the waste armor off the wires. the thin metal bonding strip alone. Use side-cutting
armor comes apart far enough for you to slip in Keep your hands clear of sharp edges. pliers to snip away pointed ends of sheathing that
8
cutters. If you have trouble doing this with your bare could nick wire insulation.
hands, use two pliers.
RUNNING NEW CABLE

if bushings did not come with
your cable, buy them separately.
Proper placement of the bushing is important to Remove the locknut from an armored cable clamp. Remove a knockout slug from a metal box, and
prevent the sharp edge of the armor from Slide the clamp down over the bushing as far as it poke the connector into the hole. Slide the locknut
cutting into the insulation around the wires. Slip will go, and tighten the screw. Double-check to over the wires, and tighten it onto the cable clamp.
a bushing over the wires. Slide it down into the make sure that none of the wires are in danger of On BX cable this connection is the ground-use a
armor so the bushing protects the wires from being nicked by the armor. hammer and a screwdriver to tap the locknut tight.
the sharp edges of the armor.
WIRING 1-2-3 121

Running conduit
SKILLS: Measuring and cutting
conduit, assembling parts
PROJECT: To install and wire 50 feet
of conduit with five bends
EXPERIENCED: 3 hrs.
HANDY: 5 hrs.
NOVICE: 8 hrs.
TOOLS: Conduit and fittings, wire,

lubricant
8 MATERIALS: Screwdriver, lineman's
pliers, hacksaw; conduit reamer,
fish tape
ASSEMBLING THE PARTS
RUNNING NEW CABLE
Take a rough drawing of your installation to a home center or electrical supply store.
lthough not very Ask a salesperson to help gather all the pieces you need. Generally use 1^-inch conduit
a common in residential
construction, conduit is
the most durable product for
running wire. It's more expensive
and time-consuming to install than
for up to five #12 wires or six #14 wires, and 3/Hnch conduit for more wires. (Larger
conduit will make pulling easier, so consider buying 3/4-inch in any case.) Use setscrew
couplings and elbows for indoor installations (you'll have to use compression fittings
outdoors). If the conduit and the box are installed flush against a wall, you'll need an
offset fitting. Use a sweep to turn most corners. At every four bends provide access to
cable, but it is no longer necessary the wires by installing a box or a pulling elbow as shown on the opposite page.
to learn how to bend conduit.
Ready-made parts make
installation easier than ever. Use
conduit on unfinished walls and
Running m etal conduit
ceilings where wiring will be
exposed. Use electrical metallic
tubing (EMT), or "thinwall"
conduit, for most indoor
installations and thicker
intermediate metal conduit (IMC)
for outdoor jobs. Plastic rigid
nonmetallic conduit (PVC) is also
used outdoors. To install it see
pages 174-176.
ANCHOR THE BOXES

Place the boxes where desired. As much as possible keep the CONDUIT FOR CUTTING
boxes level with each other so the conduit can make straight To enable the conduit to hug the wall, install special offset
runs between them. Drive screws to anchor each box. If you conduit fittings. The conduit will insert about an inch into the
are anchoring to concrete or block, use masonry screws. fitting. Wherever possible hold conduit in place and mark it
for cutting; elsewhere, use a tape measure.
122 WIRING 1-2-3

TOOL SAVVY
X
SQUIRT LUBRICANT
To make pulling easier on long runs, pour a bit of
pulling lubricant on the wires. (Don't risk using
substitute lubricants such as dishwashing liquid or
hand soap. Some can dangerously degrade wire
insulation over tim e.)
- CLOSER LOOK
MEASURE AND CUT REMOVE BURRS AND RUN THE

Install the boxes first, then cut conduit to fit between CONDUIT
them. At a corner have a helper hold a sweep in Ream out all burrs with a conduit reamer so the
I
place while you mark the conduit for cutting. Use a wires can slide smoothly past joints without
hacksaw with a fine-tooth blade to cut. damaging the sheathing. Attach the conduit to the
fittings and boxes.
INSTALL PULLING ELBOWS

If the conduit will make more than three turns
between boxes, install a pulling elbow to make
fishing easier. Don't splice wires here; just use the
opening to pull the wires through.
ATTACH THE WIRES Have someone feed the wires through one end
Feed the fish tape through the conduit in the while you pull the fish tape on the other end. Pull
opposite direction from which you will pull the with steady pressure. Try to keep the wires moving,
wires. Poke the wire ends through the fish tape's rather than starting and stopping. If you get stuck
loop and bend them over in stair-step fashion. Wrap back up a few inches to gain a running start.
firmly and neatly with electrician's tape so the joint
will not bind when it goes through a sweep.
WIRING 1-2-3 123

Running conduit (continued)
PVC conduit
Blue EMT tubing
Gray outdoor tubing
FLEXIBLE PLASTIC CONDUIT

Flexible conduit is a bit expensive but may be the best choice in places where it
PVC C O N DUIT A N D FITTINGS will be difficult to run solid conduit. Check to make sure it is permitted in your
When running PVC conduit you can use either PVC or metal boxes. You will need locale. Blue EMT tubing is lightweight and suitable only for indoor use when
threaded adapters to connect PVC pipe to a metal box. Purchase elbows for turns. behind walls or in concrete where it is not exposed. Outdoor tubing is strong and
8
Use a pulling elbow if the pipe makes more than three turns between boxes or if impermeable to keep wires safe and dry.
you will need to get at the wires.
RUNNING NEW CABLE
Assembling the pieces
Install boxes as you would for metal conduit (page Buy cement (and perhaps primer) approved for use Within a few seconds of applying the cement, push
122), and measure for cutting the conduit to fit with the conduit you are using. Disassemble the the conduit into the fitting and give it a slight twist.
between the boxes. Cut PVC conduit using a miter pieces, and glue them together in order. You may or Hold the two pieces together for 10 seconds or so,
box and a backsaw or a power saw with a fine- may not need to first apply primer before applying then wipe away any excess cement. Move on to the
cutting blade. Assemble four or five pieces in a dry the glue. Apply cement to the inside of the fitting next joint.
run. Where needed draw layout lines that extend and to the outside of the conduit.
from a fitting onto a piece of conduit to ensure that
you will install the pieces in the correct orientation.
124 WIRING 1-2-3

Wiring in unfinished framing
unning cable through bare framing members is
SKILLS: Planning locations of devices,

measuring, boring holes
PROJECT: To run NM cable for 8 to 10
wall and ceiling boxes
Q far easier than fishing it through a wall finished
with drywall or plaster and lath (pages 128-131).
If the existing wall surface is flawed or if you also are
installing plumbing in a remodeling job, it usually saves work
to tear off all the drywall. Start anew rather than living with a
roomful of small wall patches.
i i r
In s ta llin g c a b le th a t is s a fe a n d secure
EXPERIENCED: 6 hrs.
Installing NM cable with plastic boxes is quick and easy—drill
HANDY: 8 hrs.
holes, run the cable through, and poke it into boxes. But
NOVICE: 10 hrs.
don't run cable any old way. Safety concerns and codes
dictate that it must be positioned out of harm's way, which
means precise measuring and installing.
TOOLS: Drill with 5/Hnch or 3/4-inch Choosing boxes and cable. Check local codes before
bits, hammer, tape measure, level, buying materials. Codes may call for metal boxes, although
longnose pliers, utility knife plastic is fine in most areas. Assuming you will be installing
MATERIALS: NM or armored cable, 1/>-inch drywall after wiring, buy boxes that are easy to install
electrical boxes, protective nailing \ inch out from a stud or joist. Plan wiring carefully (Chapter
plates, cable staples, safety goggles 7) so you'll install the correct cables. For instance, use 14/2 Attach all the boxes before running cable. Receptacle boxes
RU NNING NEW CABLE

for most general lighting and receptacles, 12-gauge for 20- are usually positioned 12 inches above the floor and switch
amp circuits, and three-wire cable for three-way switches boxes 45 inches above the floor. (Many electricians set their
and split receptacles. hammer head down on the floor, using a hammer length to
Placing holes. Local codes may specify the height at position floor-level receptacles.) Hold a nail-on box with its
which cable for receptacles should be run, as well as where front edge positioned out from the stud the thickness of the
to put staples. drywall, and drive the two nails. Double-check to see that
If an unfinished attic is above or a basement is below, you've installed all the boxes. Walk around the room
run some of the cables there (pages 128-131). pretending to use all the switches.
REAL WORLD
NEVER NOTCH PLACE BOXES AW AY

In a tight spot like this, you may be FROM FRAM ING
tempted to whip out the hammer Switch boxes should be installed
and chisel and chop notches in the far enough away from the door to
face of the studs so the cable runs allow for framing. If installed too
more easily. But the cable would close, the door trim may cover up
then be dangerously exposed. the switch, which would require
Instead, drill slightly larger holes, cutting into the drywall to move
bend the cable before poking it in, the switch b o x -a messy job.
and grab it with longnose pliers. If
you simply can't make the corner
one trick to try is drilling a hole
between the two other holes to
make the comer inside the studs
less acute
WIRING 1-2-3 125

Wiring in unfinished framing (continued)
Wherever possible use a tape measure and

level to mark studs and joists. Mark so holes will A TYPICAL CABLE ROUGH-IN
be in a straight horizontal line. Drill %-inch holes Run cable in a straight horizontal line, 1 foot
for two-wire NM cable and 3/4-inch holes for above the receptacles (areas under windows protective nailing plates for extra safety (they
RU NNING NEW CA
three-wire cable or armored cable. A %-inch are an exception) or according to local code. To may be required for every hole). Even if you will
drill works fine for small jobs, but give it a keep cable out of the reach of nails, drill all only hang a light, install a ceiling fan box in case
rest if it overheats. holes in the center of studs and at least VM you choose to add a ceiling fan later.
To avoid kinks keep the cable straight and NAILING PLATES INTO THE BOXES
untwisted as you work. When possible pull the These are inexpensive and quick to install. Be Staple cable tightly wherever it runs along a
cable first and then cut it to length. If you must sure to nail one of these wherever the cable joist so it is out of the reach of nails. Staple
cut it first, allow plenty of extra length. Pull the is within 1 1/4 inches of the front edge of the within 8 inches of a plastic box and within 12
cable fairly tight, but leave it loose enough so framing member. For added safety (and to inches of a metal box. See page 116 for
there is an inch or so of play. satisfy some local codes), install nailing plates clamping methods.
over every hole.
126 WIRING 1-2-3

Special situations
Running cable Fishing through a solid corner
through trusses
Roof and floor trusses (or engineered joists) are
Fish tape
made to exacting specifications, and any holes
you drill or notches you cut could weaken them
significantly and render them out-of-code. - 1 " holes drilled
from either side
Where possible run cable through the openings
in a truss. In some cases it is best to staple cable
to the exposed end of a truss, and then protect
the cable by attaching a board on either side. If
In some cases corners are framed with no
you need to cut into a truss, first consult with Fish tape
hooks th( spaces between the studs. To run NM cable
your building inspector.
other fish through such a corner drill a 1-inch hole from
tape either side; take care to drill each hole level, so
they m eet in the middle. Poke a fish tape into
one hole, and catch it with another fish tape
poked into the other hole. Pull the first tape
o
through, and use it to pull the cable.
RUNNING NEW CABLE

Wiring through m etal studs
Metal studs have convenient holes for running
pipes and cables. Be sure to install the studs all
in the same orientation and cut at the same
end so the holes will line up. Insert protective
plastic bushings into each hole before running
the cable.
WIRING 1-2-3 127

Wiring finished rooms
ou need the patience of a surgeon to run wiring
SKILLS: Basic carpentry and wiring

skills
PROJECT: To rough in for a receptacle,
light, and switch
□ through walls that are finished with drywall or
plaster. At times you'll feel like grabbing a
hammer and knocking big holes in the wall to get at that
darned cable. But remember that patching and painting walls
are tedious and time-consuming tasks, so any steps you can
take to minimize wall or ceiling damage will save you work
0 TIME TO COMPLETE in the long run.
EXPERIENCED: 6 hrs.
Follow th e easiest p a th
HANDY: 10 hrs.
If you have an unfinished attic or a basement, run as much of
NOVICE: 14 hrs.
the cable there as possible. If a basement or attic is finished,
run armored cable instead of NM.
Use an electronic stud finder to locate joists and studs
TOOLS: Electronic stud finder, drywall that may be in the way. You may be able to move a box a
saw, saber saw, drill, hammer, few inches to avoid an obstruction. Wherever possible run
8 screwdriver, fishing bit, fish tape, cable parallel to studs or joists.
flat pry bar First cut holes for the boxes (pages 132-133); then run DRILL A LOCATOR HOLE
MATERIALS: Cable, remodel boxes, the cable. Reach into the box holes with your hand, a fish Directly below a box from which you want to grab power,
safety goggles tape, or a long drill bit in order to reach the cable. remove the base shoe and drill a 1/Hnch hole through the
RUNNING NEW CABLE
If you plan to take power from an existing receptacle for floor. Poke a wire down through the hole.
your new service, make sure you will not overload the circuit.
Using the wire as a reference point, drill a 1-inch hole Open a knockout hole in the bottom of the box. Strip sheathing from the
through the middle of the wall's bottom plate (a 2x4 lying cable and attach a cable clamp (remove the locknut). Form the wires into
flat on top of the flooring above). a hook. Poke a fish tape or unbent coat hanger down through the
knockout hole while a helper pushes the cable up. Hook and pull up.
128 WIRING 1-2-3

WIRING THAT'S EXPOSED
BUT OUT OF SIGHT
In some situations it's OK to leave the wiring
exposed. One example is cove lighting, which is
placed on top of wall cabinets. Install simple
RUNNING CABLE BEHIND A BASEBOARD
fluorescent fixtures with exposed cable (codes
Use a flat pry bar to remove baseboard molding. With a drywall saw cut a channel in the drywall at
may call for armored cable).
least 1 inch shorter than the baseboard. Drill holes through the centers of the studs and run cable
RUNNING NEW CABLE

through the holes. Protect all holes with nail plates.
RUNNING CABLE AROUND A DOOR

If you have no access above or below, this may
be your only option. Codes vary on whether this
type of installation is legal so be sure to check
with your local electrical authority before
installing cable in this manner. Remove casing
from around a door and snake cable around.
You may be able to slip the cable between the
jamb and the stud. Or drill a hole and run the
RUNNING CABLE THROUGH A WALL cable in the cavity on the other side of the stud.
If the new box will be more or less directly behind the existing box from which you will grab power, you can
avoid wall patching. Cut the hole for the remodel box. Remove the existing receptacle and punch out a
knockout in the back or bottom of its box. Run one fish tape through the existing box and one through the
new hole. Hook them together. Pull the tape back through the hole, and you're ready to pull cable from the
hole to the box.
WIRING 1-2-3 129

Wiring finished rooms (continued)
If the attic isn't used for storage, you may be
allowed to lay cable on top of the joists if you
install 1x4 strips on either side of the cable.
Cable clamp
w ithout locknut
Fish tape
attached to cable
RUNNING NEW CABLE
RUNNING CABLE UP, OVER, AND DOWN

If the attic is accessible, drill a hole through the top plate. Run cable down a cable clamp (without a locknut), and form the wires into a hook. Punch
through it to the hole for the new box directly below. Drill holes and run out a knockout hole and run a fish tape up the wall. Jiggle and slide the
cable through the joists, over to the spot directly above the existing box tape back and forth until it goes through the hole in the ceiling plate. Have
from which you want to run power. Strip sheathing from the cable, install a helper hook the cable to the tape and pull it into the box.
REAL W ORLD
“T T ----- — -------- \
THE CLAMP IS W ORTH THE EFFORT
Sometimes a little extra effort saves time and
energy in the future. When installing cable it
takes some effort to get it through the wall and
into the receptacle box and it may be tempting
not to attach a cable clamp, too, but inspectors
will disagree. Take the time to attach the cable
clamps. Attach the clamp (minus the nut)
8 inches from the cable end. Pull the wires
through, and the threaded part of the clamp
WHERE THE CEILING AND WALL MEET
will seat itself nicely in the hole.
When there is no access from above or below, cut notches in the drywall or plaster, like
this. Drill a 1-inch hole up through the center of the top plate. Bend the cable, poke it
up through the hole, and grab it from the other side.
130 WIRING 1-2-3
Locator
0 SAFETY ALERT
CUT AND DRILL CAREFULLY

Any time you cut into a wall with
a saw or a drill bit, there is a
possibility that you will encounter
an electrical cable or a plumbing
pipe. When possible drill a small
hole, poke in a wire, and wiggle it
around to make sure there are no
obstructions. Cut with a handsaw
rather than a power saw; that
way you can usually feel when
you encounter something. Make
your cuts as shallow as possible-
just deep enough to cut through
the drywall or the lath and
plaster. Be prepared to shut off
both the water and the gas to the
house in case you do puncture
FISHING FROM THE ATTIC
a pipe. O
To run cable up into the attic, first drill a locator hole rise above attic insulation. Go into the attic and find the wire. Near the
up through the ceiling. Poke a wire up into the hole. wire drill a hole through the center of the wall's top plate. You can
The wire may need to extend a foot or so upward to now run cable up or down through the wall.
RUNNING NEW CABLE
This tool is usually worth its cost because it bit. Use the grabber to position the bit; it may help wire grabber onto the cable to be pulled; it has a
reduces the number of holes you will need to cut to have a flashlight to make sure you are, for mesh attachment that quickly and securely grips
and patch. It has three parts: a long, flexible bit, a instance, drilling through the center of a baseplate. the cable. Hook the grabber's hook onto the hole
guide tool, and a wire grabber that hooks to the Once the hole is drilled, leave the bit in place; in the end of the bit, and pull the bit back to fish
end of the bit. First, drill the hole with the flexible don't pull it back out. At the other end slip the the wire.
WIRING 1-2-3 131

Installing remodeling boxes
hen you run cable to install new devices in an
old wall, you have several handy self-attaching
SKILLS: Careful cutting of walls, liy y i boxes at your service. To use these remodeling
driving screws boxes (also called old-work or cut-in boxes), you need only
PROJECT: Cutting a hole in drywall or cut a hole, run the cable, clamp the cable to the box, and
plaster and installing a box install the remodeling box.
To make sure you won't hit a stud or joist, before cutting
a hole drill a small bore in the wall, and probe with a piece
of wire.
Cut the hole carefully using one of the methods shown
HANDY: 45 min.
on this page. The hole will probably not be rectangular (page
NOVICE: 1 hr.
141). The box should fit into the hole snugly, but not so
tightly that you have to force it. If the hole is too wide, the
box may not effectively attach to the drywall or plaster.
TOOLS: Electronic stud finder, utility
knife, drywall saw, saber saw or
8
rotary cutter, screwdriver, drill
MATERIALS: Remodeling (old-work)
box, screws CUTTING A HOLE IN PLASTER W IT H A SABER S A W
RUNNING NEW CABLE
Cutting through a lath and plaster wall is difficult and often

results in cracked plaster. Drill holes at each corner, and score
the face of the plaster with a utility knife. Cut with a saber
saw equipped with a fine-tooth blade. Press hard against the
wall to reduce lath vibration.
CUTTING A HOLE IN DRYW ALL CUTTING A HOLE IN PLASTER W IT H

Use a pencil to mark the location of the hole, and score the A SPIRAL CUTTING TOOL
paper surface with a utility knife. Cut along the inside of the Because of its rapidly rotating blade, this tool won't rattle
knife-cut with a drywall saw. The resulting hole will be free your lath and loosen the plaster. To use this tool, set the
of ragged edges. base on the wall and tip the blade away from the surface
while you let it come to full speed. Then tilt the blade gently
into the wall. Have extra blades on hand; they dull quickly
on plaster.
132 WIRING 1-2-3
Attaching the boxes
INSTALLING A BOX W IT H S PR IN G FLANGES INSTALLING A BOX W IT H SIDE CLAMPS USIN G M O U N T IN G BRACKETS

If you buy this kind of box, make sure both flanges After pushing the box into the hole, tighten the Push a metal box with plaster ears into the hole, 8
spring out firmly from the box. Push the box into the screw on each side. Each clamp extends behind the then slip a bracket in on each side. Center each
hole until the flanges are free to spring outward. As wall to hold the box in place. bracket behind the wall. Pull the bracket toward you
you tighten the center screw, the flanges should until it's tight, push the box tightly against the wall,
RUNNING NEW CABLE

move toward you until they fit snugly against the then fold the tabs into the box with your thumb.
back of the drywall or plaster. Tighten the tabs with pliers.
CLOSER LOOK
INSTALLING A BOX W IT H FOLD-OUT EARS Many metal boxes have adjustable ears. Cut the Lath cracks easily, so work carefully. Drill pilot
These plastic remodeling boxes have ears that swing out hole and chip out the plaster above and below holes and drive short screws to anchor the ears
behind the drywall or plaster. Push the box into the hole, so the ears will fit. Loosen the two screws and to the lath. Expect to do some patching after
then turn the screws clockwise until the ears clamp onto the adjust each ear so the face of the box is flush using this method.
back of the drywall or plaster. Switch boxes are also available with the wall surface. Tighten the screws.
with this same wall-grabbing mechanism.
WIRING 1-2-3 133

Patching walls
he techniques shown on pages 128-131 help
SKILLS: Patching and smoothing walls

and ceilings
PROJECT: Patching a medium-size
hole, not including touchup
O you minimize damage to walls, but patching
drywall or plaster will probably be the finishing
step in running cable.
Most homes built after the 1950s have walls covered
with drywall—also called Sheetrock or wallboard. It's usually
\ inch thick and is fairly easy to patch. The time-consuming
part is applying joint compound and smoothing the joint
between the old and the new surfaces.
EXPERIENCED: 1 hr.
An older home may have lath-and-piaster walls. The lath
HANDY: 2 hrs.
often splits or loosens and the plaster crumbles, making
NOVICE: 3 hrs.
patching a challenge. Older homes may have a combination
of the two: Old plaster walls are often covered with \ or 3/s-
inch drywall.
TOOLS: Putty knife, 4-inch and 8-inch
taping blades, utility knife, sanding Handling textured walls
8 block Some drywall surfaces have a textured surface that is difficult
MATERIALS: Drywall, mesh patching to duplicate. You can cut out the pieces carefully and replace
tape, joint compound, spackling them with the original pieces when you are done wiring. You
PATCH A SMALL HOLE IN DRYWALL
compound might get away with just caulking the joints.
RUNNING NEW CABLE
Cut a new piece of drywall to fit the hole, or reuse the piece
If a ceiling has a texture like cottage cheese, a foam
you cut out. If you do not have a stud or joist to screw to, cut
product has been blown onto it. You can buy a special
a 1x4 about 8 inches longer than the hole. Place the piece
patching compound to repair or recoat the ceiling, or hire a
behind the hole as shown. Drive iVdnch drywall screws to
pro to recoat it.
secure the patch.
Cut pieces of fiberglass mesh patching tape and lay them Allow the compound to dry. Reapply the compound,
over the joints. Apply joint compound and smooth it with a feathering the edges. It will take several coats to smooth the
drywall taping knife. (Ready-mix joint compound is easy to joint. Sand the patch smooth with a drywall sanding block.
use, but dry-mix compound is stronger and sets faster.) Prime and paint.
134 WIRING 1-2-3

Cleat
FILLING A CHANNEL IN
A PLASTER WALL
You might cut a narrow channel
through a plaster wall to slip a
cable through. To fill the gap
combine dry-mix joint compound
USE CLEATS FOR A LARGE DRYWALL PATCH
("9 0 " or "45") with an equal
Use a level or framing square to mark out a rectangle around Remove loose plaster. Tap with a hammer to excavate a
amount of perlited gypsum. Mix
the damage. Your marks should span from stud to stud or rough rectangular shape. If the lath is solid, you don't need to 8
the two with water, and you'll
joist to joist. Cut with a drywall saw. Cut 2x2 or 2x4 cleats expose studs or joists. For the patch use drywall that is the
have a paste that won't sag when
a few inches longer than the hole. Hold them against the same thickness as the plaster. Cut the patch roughly to size,
you apply it. Force the paste into
back of the drywall as you drive 3-inch drywall screws into and attach it to the lath with 11/4-inch drywall screws.
RUNNING NEW CABLE

the cavity with a putty knife.
the framing.
Allow it to dry then apply
subsequent coats of joint
compound.
REAL WORLD
~\
BLENDING A PATCH
Pay attention to the texture of
existing walls, before applying a
patch to a smaller area. If the
texture of the wall is rough and
the patch too smooth, this will
only emphasize the flaws and
vice versa.
FILL THE GAP WITH JOINT COMPOUND

Cut a patch to fit, about \ inch smaller than the hole in each You can mix the joint compound with perlited gypsum (see
direction. Attach the patch with 11/4-inch drywall screws. "Filling a Channel in a Plaster Wall," above). Apply mesh
Cover the joints with tape, apply joint compound (right), tape to the joints, then apply the compound. For best results
and sand. apply several feathering coats of compound, scraping and
sanding between coats.
WIRING 1-2-3 135

Installing a junction box
attaching a box
PROJECT: Installing and wiring one
junction box
EXPERIENCED: 1 hr.
HANDY: 2 hrs.
NOVICE: 3 hrs.

pliers, screwdriver, drill, voltage
8 tester
MATERIALS: Junction box with cover,
ATTACH THE BOX
wire nuts, screws
Shut off power to the wires that you w ill be splicing. Strip cable sheathing and clamp the cable, or connect
RUNNING NEW CABLE
Anchor the box with screws. To attach the box to a masonry conduit. Strip wires and connect them with wire nuts. If the
surface, drill holes with a masonry bit. Drive masonry screws. box is metal, make a grounding pigtail and connect it to the
green grounding screw.
nstall a junction box
a wherever wires must

be spliced. Keep the
box accessible—never bury it in a
wall or ceiling. Junction boxes are
usually flush-mounted to walls or
attached to attic, basement, or
crawlspace framing. But you can
set one inside a wall as you would
a switch box; cover it with a blank
plastic cover plate.
USE A METAL COVER PLATE IN UTILITY AREAS

If a receptacle or switch is in an exposed box, use a metal
Fold the wires into the box and attach the cover plate. To do
rather than a plastic cover plate. You may need to break off the
so loosen the screws at two corners of the box, hook the
metal "ears" of the receptacle or switch. Attach the them to
cover plate on first one screw and then the other, and tighten
the cover plate first, and then attach the cover plate to the box.
the screws.
136 WIRING 1-2-3

Installing raceway wiring
aceway wiring is an easy way to install a switch,
SKILLS: Connecting with screws,

stripping and joining wires
PROJECT: Installing a switch and
fixture, or several receptacles
Q fixture, or receptacle when cutting into a wall is
difficult or appearances aren't important. It will
spare you the hassle of cutting into walls, drilling holes,
fishing cable, and patching the walls.
Starter plate
Gathering the parts

Take a drawing of your proposed installation to a home
center or electrical supply source, and ask a salesperson to
EXPERIENCED: 3 hrs.
help you assemble all the parts. Choose metal, which is
HANDY: 5 hrs.
paintable, or plastic, which is not.
NOVICE: 8 hrs.
You'll need a starter box for each device, channel, L and T
connectors, receptacle or switch boxes, and perhaps a fixture
box. Buy plenty of wire. Use green insulated wire for the
TOOLS: Drill, screwdriver, hacksaw, ground, never bare copper.
wire strippers, longnose pliers
MATERIALS: Box extender with cover 8
plate, channel, fittings, fixture bases,
fixture box, wire, clips, new devices, Shut off power to the circuit. Pull out a receptacle and
plastic anchors mount a starter plate on the wall behind it. Install new
RUNNING NEW CABLE

raceway boxes for receptacles, switches, and fixtures in the
same way.
New receptacle box
New receptacle base
Use a hacksaw to cut pieces of channel to fit between the Place wires in the channel base and secure them with clips
boxes. Attach the channel base to the wall with screws about every foot. Leave 8 inches of wire at each box to make
driven into studs or plastic anchors. Use fittings at all comers. connections. Snap any device boxes onto the bases and
fasten them with screws driven into studs or plastic anchors.
WIRING 1-2-3 137

Installing raceway wiring (continued)
ADDING A LIGHT AND WALL SWITCH

USING RACEWAY WIRING
To add a switched ceiling light to a room, you
need a nearby receptacle. Install a ceiling fixture
base, making sure that it is firmly attached to
joists in the ceiling. Install the raceway switch
base, and run a channel from the receptacle to
the switch base and on to the fixture base. Run
wiring and add the boxes. Make wiring
connections as shown on page 142, and install
the devices.
Use a similar arrangement to add a wall
switch to a pull-chain light fixture. Install a
raceway switch box at a convenient height.
Remove the ceiling fixture and install a raceway
fixture box onto the ceiling box. Run the
channel and two black wires from the switch
to the fixture, making connections as shown
on page 146.
FIXTURES
8 Snap the covers onto the channel base and the
corner pieces. Strip the wire ends and connect
them to the terminals just as you would for
RUNNING NEW CABLE
standard wiring. Install cover plates, restore

power, and test.
FISHING WIRES IN METAL RACEWAY TRY THESE QUICK AND EASY PRODUCT OPTIONS
Metal channels do not come apart in two Cord channel (above left) encases and protects lamp cord that must be run along a wall. A multi-outlet
pieces. Install clips on the wall, and snap the strip (above right) is a sort of super extension cord, with a grounded receptacle every foot or so. No wiring
channel into the clips. Fish wires through the is required to install these products. The channels mount to clips, or they stick to the wall with tape backing.
channel. If you can't shove the wires through,
you might have to use a fish tape.
138 WIRING 1-2-3

Installing new services
TAPPING INTO A RECEPTACLE OR
JUNCTION BOX
INSTALLING A NEW RECEPTACLE
ADDING A WALL SWITCH
SWITCHING A RECEPTACLE
SPLITTING A RECEPTACLE
ADDING A 240-VOLT RECEPTACLE
ADDING A FIXTURE WITH A SWITCH
WIRING THREE-WAY SWITCHES
WIRING FOUR-WAY SWITCHES
ew construction projects are more satisfying than adding electrical
a
ADDING A WALL LIGHT
devices or fixtures to your home. Most of these jobs take less than a
day, yet make big improvements in your family's quality of life. The
INSTALLING A SMOKE DETECTOR
installations in this chapter rely on the skills and knowledge taught in the first two-
thirds of the book. Refer to earlier chapters for specific instructions on the projects
that follow.
Whenever adding new services, follow these important guidelines:
■ Turn off power to the circuit you are working on, and test all open boxes to
make sure no power is present.
■ Be sure the new service will not overload your circuit.
■ Follow local codes for running cable and installing boxes. Obtain a permit from
your building department every time you install new cable.
WIRING 1-2-3 139

Tapping into a receptacle
or junction box
junction box is often found in a
SKILLS: Testing and shutting off

power, splicing wires
PROJECT: Tapping into a junction box
with a new electrical cable
Q basement, crawlspace, attic, or
other utility area. It is often the
most convenient place to grab power for new
electrical service. Before you do, however, check
to make sure that the circuit will not be
overloaded by the new service you will install
(pages 112-113).
HANDY: 1 hr. Check the circuit
NOVICE: 2 hrs.
before you install
TOOLS: Voltage tester, screwdriver,
the new junction
wire strippers, lineman's pliers
MATERIALS: Cable, clamp, wire nuts,
box to make sure
Shut off power to the circuit. You may need to use a voltage detector to
electrician's tape
the new service make sure that all the cables have been de-energized. Carefully remove
INSTALLING NEW SERVICES
the cover plate, and test again for power. The box shown has three cables
won't overload it. entering it, but yours may have fewer or more.
Ill | | |
INSTALL THE NEW CABLE Twist together all the black or colored wires, and GROUNDS
Remove all the wire nuts and untwist the wires from screw on a wire nut (page 14). Make sure the nut is Connect the white wires in the same way. Connect
each other. If any wires look in danger of cracking, large enough for all the wires. the ground wires to each other, and use a pigtail to
cut their ends and restrip. If the box is at risk for connect to the box. Gently fold the wires into the
being too crowded (page 112), pull out the cables box and replace the cover plate.
and replace with a larger box. Run the new cable
into the box, and fasten it with a cable clamp.
140 WIRING 1-2-3

Installing a new receptacle
he easiest way to install a new receptacle is to
SKILLS: Running cable through walls,

stripping and splicing
PROJECT: Installing a new receptacle
in a finished wall
a tap an existing receptacle for power, as shown
here. Before you do this make sure you will not
overload the existing receptacle's circuit (pages 48-49).
If you can't pull power from a nearby receptacle, you
may be able to tap into a junction box above or below the
room (page 140). You also can pull power from a light fixture
0 TIME TO COMPLETE or switch-whichever has power entering its box.
As a last resort you may have to run cable all the way
back to the service panel and install a new circuit breaker
HANDY: 1 hr.
(pages 192-193).
NOVICE: 2 hrs.
As with many electrical projects, patching and painting
walls afterward can be more trouble than the wiring. See
pages 128-131 for tips on reducing damage to your walls.
TOOLS: Drill, drywall saw or saber
saw, screwdriver, lineman's pliers,
wire strippers
Plan a cabling path that
Choose a path that will cause minimal damage to the walls,
MATERIALS: Cable and clamps,
remodel box, staples, receptacle,
will minimize the such as running cable behind a baseboard (shown). Remove
the baseboard and cut away the drywall. Shut off power
v
wire nuts, electrician's tape
damage to the walls. to the circuit. Remove a knockout in the receptacle's box
from where you'll take power, add a connector, then fish
NSTALLING NEW SERVICES

the cable.
Cut a hole for the new receptacle box. Drill holes in the If the existing receptacle is at the end of the run (shown),
centers of studs for the cable to pass through. Strip 6 to 8 attach the black wire to the brass terminal and the white
inches of sheathing from either end of the cable. Punch out a wire to the silver terminal. If the receptacle is in the middle
knockout hole and clamp the cable to the existing box. Run of the run, no terminals will be available; use pigtails to
the cable into a remodel box and attach the box to the wall connect to power (page 35). Wire the new receptacle—white
(pages 132-133). Either clamp the cable to the box or staple to silver, black to brass. Connect the grounds (page 11).
the cable near the box. Restore power, then test.
WIRING 1-2-3 141

Adding a wall switch
(§ ) PROJECT DETAILS
SKILLS: Running cable through walls

and ceilings, stripping and
connecting cable and wires
PROJECT: Installing a switch for
a pull-chain ceiling fixture
0 TIME TO COMPLETE
EXPERIENCED: 2 hrs.
HANDY: 4 hrs.
NOVICE: 6 hrs.
Q j STUFF YOU'LL NEED

saw, fish tape, screwdriver, lineman's
pliers, wire strippers
R U N CABLE
9 remodel box, staples, receptacle,
Shut off power to the circuit supplying the fixture. Plan a Add nailing plates where you bore holes in framing. Cut a
wire nuts, electrician's tape,
cable pathway that crosses as few studs or joists as possible. hole for a remodel switch box and pull the cable through.
cover plates
You may have to cut access holes to run cable through Strip the wires.
framing (pages 128-131).
^ P P | iring a wall switch to a

: pull-chain ceiling
■ y y H fixture is easy; the
challenge is running cable from
the fixture to the switch. You may
need to cut a hole near the fixture
so that you can reach behind its
box and clamp cable to it. Consider
covering the hole with a medallion
(page 85).
First connect the ground (page 11). Remove the old black Attach both wires to the terminals and mark the white
wire from the fixture lead, and splice it to the new white wire black. Restore power to the circuit, and test.
wire and mark it black. Splice the new black wire to the
fixture's black lead.
142 WIRING 1-2-3

Switching a receptacle
PROJECT DETAILS
SKILLS: Running cable through walls,

stripping and connecting cable and
Connecting
wires tab
PROJECT: Wiring one outlet of a
receptacle on a wall switch (not
including wall patching)
0 TIM E TO COMPLETE
EXPERIENCED: 2 hrs.
HANDY: 3 hrs.
NOVICE: 5 hrs.
ou can assign either outlet of a duplex receptacle
to control a floor or table lamp from a wall-
mounted switch and still leave the other outlet
TOOLS: Screwdriver, longnose pliers, hot all the time. This is possible because the two outlets on
wire strippers the receptacle are connected by tabs on either side that can W O R K IN G W IT H A N E N D -O F-TH E -R U N RECEPTACLE
MATERIALS: Cable and clamps, be removed, as shown below. Removing the tab on the hot Shut off power. Remove the receptacle and break the tab.
remodel box, staples, wire nuts, side (brass terminals) allows you to wire the receptacle so Run two-wire cable from the switch to the receptacle. Mark
electrician's tape that only one of the outlets is switched. Grasp the tab both ends of the white wires black. Connect the grounds as
between the brass terminals with a pair of longnose pliers

shown. At the receptacle splice the old black wire, the new
and bend it back and forth to break it off. Remove the black wire, and a black jumper that is connected to the
If the receptacle from the box to make the job easier. To run cable always hot terminal. Cap with a wire nut. Attach the white
through finished walls and install a box for the new switch, wire marked black to the switched terminal. Attach both the
receptacle you see pages 128-133. white and black wires to the switch.
want to switch
has wires
attached to all Always hot
outlet
four terminals,
you may need
Switched
to install a outlet
End-of-the-run receptacle
larger box to
handle the M iddle-of-the-run receptacle
additional
wires. W O R K IN G W IT H A RECEPTACLE IN THE M ID D LE OF A RU N
Shut off power. Remove the receptacle and break off the tab black to the terminal. Splice the black wires and a black
between the brass terminals. Run two-wire cable from the jumper connected to the always hot outlet and cap the
switch to the receptacle you want to switch. Mark the white pigtail with a wire nut. Wire the switch and connect the
wire black at both ends. At the receptacle to be switched, grounds as shown above.
remove the black wire and connect the white wire marked
WIRING 1-2-3 143
Splitting a receptacle
herever you're likely to plug in more
than one high-amp appliance, you run the risk of
SKILLS: Running cable, stripping and overloading a circuit. In some cases two
splicing cable and wire appliances or tools plugged into the same receptacle can add
PROJECT: Installing four split or up to more than the circuit can handle.
alternating receptacles That's why some building departments require kitchen
counter receptacles to be split, so that each outlet is on a
0 TIM E TO COMPLETE separate circuit (right). (In this case the receptacles cannot be
GFCIs.) Other municipalities prefer alternating the receptacles
EXPERIENCED: 3 hrs.
so that every other one is on the same circuit (below). Either
HANDY: 4 hrs.
of these configurations may be used in a workshop.
NOVICE: 6 hrs.
Q) STUFF YOU'LL NEED Use 15-amp receptacles WIRING SPLIT RECEPTACLES

and breakers and #14 Run three-wire cable with the black and red wires connected
to separate circuit breakers or to the two poles of a double
pliers, strippers
wire for countertops and pole breaker. Break off the connecting tabs on each
receptacle (page 143). Using pigtails connect the white wire
receptacles, boxes, wire nuts,
electrician's tape, cover plates
shop areas. to a silver terminal, the red wire to a brass terminal, and the
black wire to the other brass terminal. Connect the grounds.
Wire the other receptacles the same way.
ALTERNATING CIRCUITS
Some codes call for a double-pole breaker, as shown, rather brings power to every other receptacle, and the red wire
than two separate breakers. When one circuit is turned off, energizes the others. All receptacles share the same
the other is off as well. Use three-wire cable. The black wire neutral wire.
144 WIRING 1-2-3

Adding a 240-volt receptacle
SKILLS: Running cable, stripping and
splicing wire, connecting wires to
terminals
PROJECT: Installing a new 240-volt
or 120/240-volt receptacle (not
including wall patching)
0 TIM E TO COMPLETE
EXPERIENCED: 3 hrs.
HANDY: 5 hrs.
NOVICE: 7 hrs.
0 STUFF YOU'LL NEED
TOOLS: Drill, saw, fish tape,

screwdriver, lineman's pliers, wire
240-VOLT AIR-CONDITIONER RECEPTACLE
strippers
A 20-amp, 240-volt receptacle for a window air-conditioner grounds. Mark the white wire black at both ends. Connect
MATERIALS: 240- or 240/120-volt
or other appliance requires only 12/2 cable, not the heftier the two wires to a 20-amp 240-volt double pole breaker in
receptacle, cable, box, wire nuts,
#8 wire most 240-volt receptacles require. Connect the the service panel and to the receptacle terminals.

electrician's tape
High amperage receptacles

iring a high-amperage
receptacle is slightly
more complicated
than wiring a standard 120-volt
15-amp receptacle. Follow safety
precautions strictly, however,
because this amount of voltage
is dangerous.
Choose a receptacle that
matches the appliance you will
plug into it, both in hole
configuration and amperage rating.
Recent codes require four-wire
receptacles; three-wire receptacles
were once acceptable (page 16).
Be sure the wires are thick
WIRE GAUGE INSTALL THE RECEPTACLE
enough. Use #10 wire for a
Always check with your local electrical authority for proper Receptacles are specifically designed for the type of plug
30-amp receptacle and #8 wire
gauges of wire and the type of receptacles when installing coming from the appliance. For instance, dryer plugs will not
for a 40- or 50-amp receptacle.
any less common circuits, such as 30-amp or higher circuits. fit into a receptacle intended for a stove. This ensures that
Consult with store personnel on the power or amperage appliances are powered appropriately but not overloaded. If
required for the appliance you are installing. installing a receptacle for an appliance take a look at the plug
first so you buy the right receptacle.
WIRING 1-2-3 145

Adding a fixture with a switch
Power to switch box
splicing cable and wire
PROJECT: Installing a ceiling light with
a wall switch
0 TIM E TO COMPLETE
EXPERIENCED: 3 hrs.
HANDY: 4 hrs.
NOVICE: 6 hrs.
(Not including wall patching)

pliers, strippers
R U N W IR E FR O M THE PO W ER SOURCE W IR E THE FIXTURE
9 TO THE SWITCH BOX Connect the ground. Splice the white wire to the white
receptacles, boxes, wire nuts,
Run two-wire cable from a power source to a wall switch fixture lead, and splice the black wire to the black fixture
electrician's tape, cover plates
box, and from there to a ceiling box. Connect the ground. lead. Restore power and test.
Splice the white wires and connect the black wires to the
switch terminals.
Power to fixture
J I H | hen planning to install
| M | a new light with a
B y y B switch, decide
whether to send power into the
switch box (above) or to the fixture
box (right). Shut off power to the
box from which you w ill run
power. See pages 128-131 for
instructions on installing boxes and
running cable, and page 11 for
grounding methods.
R U N POW ER TO THE FIXTURE

Run two-wire cable from the power source to the fixture box. Connect the ground. Connect the black wire and the white
Run two-wire cable from the fixture box to the switch, and wire (painted black) to the switch terminals. Restore power
mark the white wire black at both ends. Connect the ground and test.
at the fixture box. Splice the black feed wire (from the power
source) to the white wire that is marked black. Splice the
other black wire to the fixture's black lead, and splice the
white wire to the white lead.
146 WIRING 1-2-3

Two fixtures with separate switches
Two-gang
box
Single-pole
switch
1 4 /2 cable
power source
WHEN POWER ENTERS THE SWITCH BOX box to each fixture box. At the switch box connect At each fixture box connect the grounds. Splice the
Shut off power to the circuit. Run one two-wire the grounds. Splice all the white wires together and white lead to the white wire and the black lead to
cable from the power source into a two-gang switch splice two black pigtails to the feed wire. Connect

the black wire. Restore power and test.
box, and additional two-wire cables from the switch one black pigtail and one black wire to each switch.
WHEN POWER ENTERS THE FIXTURE switches, connect the grounds. Splice the two white together and splice the black wires together. At the
Shut off power to the circuit. Run two-wire cable wires to the fixture's white lead and splice the switch box splice two pigtails to the black wire.
from a power source to one fixture box. Run three- fixture's black lead to the red wire. Splice the Connect the red wire and one pigtail to one switch
wire cable from there to the second fixture box. Run remaining black wires. At the second fixture box, and the marked white wire and a pigtail to the
three-wire cable from the second fixture box to the connect the grounds. Splice the marked white wire other switch. Restore power and test.
two-gang switch box and mark the white wire black to the fixture's black lead and the unmarked white
at both ends. At the fixture box farthest from the wire to the fixture's white lead. Splice the red wires
WIRING 1-2-3 147
Wiring three-way switches
hree-way switches are so named because there basements, and garages, they spare you from having to
a
PROJECT DETAILS
are three components: two switches and the grope in the dark looking for the light switch, and they are
SKILLS: Running cable, stripping and light fixture. That means you can turn a stairwell particularly useful in households with young children who
splicing wires, following a wiring have a tendency to forget to turn off the lights.
light on or off from the top or bottom of the stairs. In long
diagram hallways, three-way switches allow you to conveniently See pages 128-131 for tips on running cable and installing
PROJECT: Installing a ceiling fixture control light fixtures from both ends of the hall. In attics, boxes and page 11 for grounding methods.
controlled by a pair of three-way
switches (not including wall
patching)
0 TIME TO COMPLETE
EXPERIENCED: 4 hrs.
HANDY: 7 hrs.
NOVICE: 12 hrs.
Q) STUFF YOU'LL NEED
TOOLS: Drill, fish tape, lineman's

pliers, screwdriver, wire strippers
MATERIALS: Two three-way switches,
ceiling fixture, cable and clamps, wire
nuts, staples, electrician's tape
THREE-WAY SWITCHES ON STAIRS

Codes-and common sense-dictate that stairway lighting
should be controlled by one switch at the bottom
of the stairs and one at the top.
148 WIRING 1-2-3

CLOSER LOOK
X
H O W THREE-WAYS W O R K
Three-way switches have three terminals. The light they THREE-WAY SERIES OFF
control is turned on when the two switches provide a Neutral
Common
continuous pathway for power. When either switch creates
a gap in that pathway, the light is off.
In a three-way system, a pair of "traveler" wires travel
from switch to switch, never to the fixture itself. It is the Common
"common" wire that carries power to the fixture. When you
wire a three-way switch, keep in mind that the traveler
Traveler
terminals are interchangeable—it doesn't matter which
traveler wire goes to which traveler terminal. Connect either
the feed wire (which brings power) or a wire that attaches to
the fixture's black lead to a switch's common terminal.
THREE-WAY SERIES ON
When power runs fixture-switch-switch

WHEN POWER RUNS TO
THE FIXTURE FIRST
Shut off power to the circuit. Run two-wire
cable from the power source to the fixture box.
Run two-wire cable from the fixture box to the
first switch box and mark the white wire black
at both ends. Run three-wire cable between the
two switch boxes, and mark the white wire
black at both ends. Connect the grounds in all
three boxes.
At the fixture box splice the black wires
together. Splice the unmarked white wire to the
fixture's white lead and splice the marked white
wire to the black lead. At the first switch box,
connect the marked white wire that comes
from the other switch and the red wire to the
traveler terminals. Connect the black wire that
comes from the fixture to the common terminal.
Splice together the remaining wires (one black
and one white marked black).
At the second switch box, attach the black-
marked white wire and the red wire to the
traveler terminals. Attach the black wire to the
common terminal. Restore power and test.
WIRING 1-2-3 149

Wiring three-way switches (continued)
When power runs switch-switch-fixture

WHEN POWER RUNS TO THE
SWITCHES FIRST
This is the simplest way to wire three-ways. 1 4 /2 cable
Shut off power to the circuit. Run two-wire power source
Ceiling box
cable from the power source to the first switch
box, three-wire cable between the switch . 1 4 /2 cable
boxes, and two-wire cable from the second
switch box to the fixture box. Connect the
grounds. At the first switch box, splice the white
wires. Connect the black feed wire to the
common terminal and the other two wires to
the traveler terminals. At the second switch box,
connect the black wire coming from the fixture
to the common terminal (in this case, the lead
marked "common" from a three-way dimmer
switch). Splice the white wires. Connect the
remaining black and red wires to the traveler
terminals. At the fixture box, splice the black
wire to the black lead and the white wire to the Travelers
1 4 /3 cable
white lead. Restore power and test.
Three-way
Light fixture downrod
dim m er switch
and canopy
When power runs switch-fixture-switch

This is the most complicated three-way wiring
configuration, but it is sometimes the easiest
way to run the cable. Shut off power to the
circuit. Run two-wire cable from a power source
to the first switch box and three-wire cable from
1 4 /3 1 4 /3
there to the fixture box. Run three-wire cable Travelers
cable cable
from the fixture box to the second switch and Travelers
mark the white wire black at both ends.
Connect the grounds in all three boxes. At the
first switch box, splice the white wires together.
Attach the feed wire to the common terminal
and the remaining wires to the traveler
terminals. At the fixture box splice the red wires Fan fixture Common
together. Splice the black wire that comes from Feed wire
to common 1 4 /2 cable
the first switch to the white wire that is marked
power source
black. Splice the remaining black wire to the
black lead and the white wire to the white lead.
At the second switch box, attach the black wire
to the common terminal and the remaining
wires to the traveler terminals. Restore power
and test.
150 WIRING 1-2-3

Wiring four-way switches
o control a fixture from three or below is a switch-switch-switch fixture; four-

splicing wires, following a wiring
diagram
PROJECT: Installing a light controlled
a more locations, install a pair of
three-way switches at either end
way switches also can be wired with power
entering the fixture first.
Install as many four-way switches as you
and one or more four-way switches in between.
The wiring for this setup can get complex, so
you may want to hire an electrician. Shown
like, as long as the first and last switches are
three-ways.
by three switches
0 TIME TO COMPLETE
EXPERIENCED: 7 hrs.
HANDY: 10 hrs.
NOVICE: 14 hrs.
TOOLS: Drill, fish tape, lineman's

pliers, screwdriver, wire strippers I
MATERIALS: Light fixture, one 4-way
1 4 /2 cable
and two 3-way switches, cable and
clamps, staples, wire nuts, 9
Feed wire
electrician's tape
to common Four-way

Three-way
Output Output Common

1 4 /3
cable
WIRING A FOUR-WAY SETUP

Shut off power to the circuit. Run two-wire cable Splice the white wires and connect the remaining At the third switch box, splice the white wires.
from a power source to the first switch box. Run wires to the traveler terminals. At the second switch Connect the black wire that comes from the fixture
three-wire cable from the first switch box to the box, splice the white wires. to the common terminal of a three-way switch and
second and from the second to the third switch box. Connect the remaining wires to a four-way the other two wires to the traveler terminals.
Run two-wire cable from the third switch box to the switch (which has only traveler terminals, no At the fixture box splice white wire to white
fixture box. Connect all the grounds. common terminal), as shown. One set of wires lead and black wire to black lead. Restore power
At the first switch box, connect the black feed should be on the input terminals and the other set and test.
wire to the common terminal of a three-way switch. on the output terminals.
WIRING 1-2-3 151

Adding a wall light
he methods for installing wall fixtures are the
SKILLS: Running cable, installing a

box, stripping and splicing wires
PROJECT: Installing two wall lights
with a wall switch (not including
a same as those for wiring ceiling lights (pages
84-85). The difference, of course, is that you're
working on a vertical surface.
Wall sconces are ideal for hallways and stairwells.
Consider wiring them using three-way switches (pages
REAL WORLD
GETTING THE R IG HT HEIGHT

The height at which light fixtures are hung can be extremely
important. Wall sconces in a hallway, if hung too low,
"\
wall patching) 148-150). may shine in guests' eyes. Installing the sconces at 7 feet
Most wall fixtures attach to a ceiling box. However, check provides general illumination—and people can admire them
the hardware to make sure you will be able to install the without squinting.
sconce plumb. Buy a swivel strap (page 85) so you can easily
EXPERIENCED: 3 hrs.
adjust the fixture. A fluorescent fixture (for use over a
HANDY: 6 hrs.
bathroom mirror, for example) may not require a box
NOVICE: 8 hrs.
(page 102).
TOOLS: Drill, saw, fish tape,

screwdriver, lineman's pliers, wire
strippers, level
MATERIALS: Wall sconces or bathroom
wall fixture, boxes, cable with
clamps, staples, wire nuts,
electrician's tape
INSTALLING A SCONCE WIRING A VANITY LIGHT

Run cable from a nearby receptacle or other power source Installing a light over a mirror or medicine cabinet calls for no
into a switch box and then to a box mounted on the wall. special wiring techniques. Some fixtures require a box, while
The swivel strap lets you adjust the base until it is level. others can be wired and attached directly to the wall. If you
Depending on the sconce, use either a ceiling fixture box will be installing a mirror that reaches to the ceiling, give the
or a switch box. Wire as you would for a ceiling fixture glass company exact dimensions for cutting a hole to attach
(page 146). the fixture to a box mounted in the wall behind the mirror.
152 WIRING 1-2-3

Installing a smoke detector
any homes have
PROJECT DETAILS
battery-powered
SKILLS: Running cable, stripping and smoke detectors that
splicing wires fail to perform when the batteries
PROJECT: Installing one hardwired die. Other homes have hardwired
smoke detector detectors that don't work if the
wiring gets damaged-which often
@ TIME TO COMPLETE happens in a fire. For the best
protection install hardwired
EXPERIENCED: 3 hrs.
detectors that have battery
HANDY: 5 hrs.
backup.
NOVICE: 8 hrs.
Most codes allow you to install
battery-only detectors. These are
fine as long as you test them
TOOLS: Drill, fish tape, wire strippers, regularly and immediately replace
lineman's pliers, screwdriver failing batteries.
MATERIALS: Smoke detector Detectors are wired using
(hardwired with battery backup), three-wire cable in a series so that
cable with clamps, ceiling box, wire when one is triggered all of them WIRING FOR A SERIES OF DETECTORS
nuts, electrician's tape will sound the alarm.s (See pages Run three-wire cable to all the detectors so that when one senses smoke, they all
128-131 for running cable and screech in unison. (Detectors wired with two-wire cable work independently of one
another.) Wire each as shown, following manufacturer's directions.

pages 132-133 for installing
remodeling boxes.)
0 SAFETY ALERT
WHERE TO PUT DETECTORS

If your detectors were installed more than 5 years ago, chances are you have
too few to satisfy current codes. For instance, detectors are now required both
in the hall and inside bedrooms to warn you in case of a bedroom fire. Ask
your building or fire department for recommendations.
You should test your smoke detector every month. The electronic sensors
last about 10 years in smoke detectors and about 5 years in carbon monoxide
detectors. Detectors are inexpensive, are easy to install, and can save your and
your family's lives. They are well worth the modest investment.
INSTALLING A DETECTOR
Carefully pack the spliced cables into the ceiling box. Clip the connector onto the back of
the detector and install the unit.
WIRING 1-2-3 153

Exhaust fans and vents
VENTILATING AN ATTIC
INSTALLING A GABLE FAN
INSTALLING A ROOF FAN
INSTALLING A WHOLE-HOUSE FAN
INSTALLING A BATHROOM VENT FAN
ADDING A RANGE HOOD
lectric ventilating fans make homes more overheating in the summer, thereby reducing cooling costs.
a comfortable by removing fumes, indoor
pollutants, and moisture. They also create
subtle but refreshing indoor breezes. Today's homes tend to

A whole-house fan moves air through the lower floors and
up out the attic, and may eliminate the need for air-
conditioning some of the time. Bathroom vent fans suck out
be tightly zipped up with thick insulation and tight-sealing odors and moisture, and may also provide light and heating
windows and doors. That means that there is a need now as well. And a range hood blows cooking odors and smoke
more than ever for ventilation that brings in fresh air and out of the kitchen.
blows out stale air. Although primarily used in warm Some of these fans pull quite a few amps, so make sure
climates, ventilating fans can be an important part of that the circuit you will install them on can handle the extra
maintaining a comfortable temperature in your home. load (pages 48-49 and 112-113). If the fan contributes to
This chapter shows how to install the major types of exceeding the load limit of the existing circuit you may need
home vent fans. A gable or roof fan keeps an attic from to install a new circuit (see page 192).
154 WIRING 1-2-3

Ventilating an attic
o keep your home comfortable and
reduce heating and cooling costs,
the attic must be able to breathe. To
achieve breathability there must be pathways
for the air to travel through, so cool air can enter
and warm air can exit. The most efficient
arrangement includes soffit vents located at the
bottom of eaves, and other vents at or near the
top of the roof. If you do not have eave vents,
then large gable vents, perhaps coupled with
roof vents, will do a serviceable job. If you have
soffit vents, make sure air can travel freely
through them into the attic; if they are blocked
with insulation, they will do no good.
What ventilation does: In the summer,
good ventilation keeps the attic from
overheating. A hot attic forces warmth down
through the attic floor into the rooms b e lo w -
even if the floor is insulated. In cold weather a
poorly insulated attic can gather moisture
through condensation because of the sharp
difference in temperature between inside and 1C
outside air. This moisture can damage insulation
and even framing. Good ventilation keeps the
EXHAUST FANS A N D VENTS

inside much the same temperature as the
outside, so the attic stays dry.
Vent fans may come with their own switches,

but you can use different switches to suit your
needs. An attic fan may have a thermostat that
turns the fan on and off according to
temperature, but you may choose to install a
wall switch below to override the therm ostat- Standard
2-w ay switch
say, when you want to keep things quiet, or
when you anticipate colder weather in the near
future. In most cases you will want the switch in
a room below. The most common arrangement
is to bring power first to the switch, then send a
cable up to a junction box in the attic, as shown.
If power is already present in a junction box in
the attic, you may choose end-line switch wiring
instead. See page 143 for the two types of
switch wiring.
WIRING 1-2-3 155

installing a gable fan
ften the easiest way to cool an attic is to install a
SKILLS: Running cable, making wiring

connections, attaching with screws
PROJECT: installing a fan and
attaching electrical wires
0 fan at one or more gables. If your gable does not
already have a louvered section, you will need to
cut through the side of the house and install framing.
The manufacturer should provide a chart detailing how
powerful a fan you need based on the size of your attic.
Depending on the size of your house, you may require
IBOB
EXPERIENCED: 4 hrs.
more than one fan. If you have no gable, install a roof fan
(page 157).
HANDY: 6 hrs.
NOVICE: 9 hrs.
I our attic doesn't have
I tuvered opening, you
TOOLS: Drill, fish tape, screwdriver,
lineman's pliers, combination will have to install one.
strippers
MATERIALS: Attic fan, cable with iy can be purchased
clamps, wire nuts, electrician's tape
at home centers. Before tapping into a receptacle or junction box for power,
check the amperage on your attic fan and make sure you will
not overload the circuit (pages 112-113). Shut off power to
the circuit. See pages 128-131 for tips on running cable into
the attic. Check with local codes to see whether you need to
use armored cable instead of NM cable.
CLOSER LOOK
A N ATTIC MUST BREATHE

An attic fan, whole-house fan, or
roof fan moves air efficiently only
if the attic is properly ventilated.
Usually a house needs vents near
the bottom of the attic (usually
under the eaves) and vents near
the roof peak, such as turbine
vents, gable vents, or a
continuous vent running along
the ridge. Check that eave vents
are not clogged with insulation. If
you are not sure that your attic is
properly vented, have it inspected
by a professional roofer.
MAKE THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS

At a louvered opening in the attic, secure the fan by driving The fan has its own thermostat switch. Mount the thermostat
screws through its mounting brackets and into studs. If the box to a framing member. Follow the manufacturer's
studs do not allow you to center the fan in the opening, instructions for connecting wires. Restore power and adjust
attach horizontal 2x4s that span between the studs. Attach the temperature control. Or you can control the fan with a
the fan to the studs. You may choose to install louvers that pilot-light switch (page 70) located in the hallway.
close when the fan is not operating.
156 WIRING 1-2-3

Installing a roof fan
roof fan is more efficient at pulling
SKILLS: Running cable, making wiring

connections, attaching with screws,
basic carpentry skills
PROJECT: Installing a roof fan and
Q hot air out the top of a roof than a
gable fan. Once you figure how to
bring power to the attic, the wiring is easy.
However, cutting the roofing and installing the
fan so that it will not leak can be tricky. Hire a
wiring a thermostat roofer if you have wood shakes, tiles, or any
other type of roofing other than asphalt
shingles. If the roof already has a non-fan vent,
you may be able to remove it and install the
EXPERIENCED: 4 hrs.
roof fan in the same hole.
HANDY: 6 hrs.
NOVICE: 9 hrs.
TOOLS: Drill, fish tape, screwdriver,

lineman's pliers, wire strippers,
reciprocating saw or saber saw,
carpentry tools
Near the peak of the roof, but allowing enough room so the fan will not
MATERIALS: Roof fan, cable with
touch the ridge framing, drill a hole in the middle of the space between
clamps, wire nuts, electrician's tape,
two joists.
roofing compound
Follow the manufacturer's directions for cutting a This must be done correctly, or the roof will leak. The Attach the fan's thermostat to a nearby joist. Shut
hole through the roof and for cutting back shingles fan slips under the shingles around the top half of off power to the circuit. Run power to the
from around the hole. You also will need to carefully the hole, and rests on top of the bottom-half thermostat; you may choose to switch this power
pry out some hidden nails that would get in the way shingles. Slip the fan in place, attach with roofing (see "Wiring Options," page 155). Wire the grounds,
of the fan's flange. nails, and apply roofing cement as directed. the whites, and the black wires, fold the wires into
the thermostat box, and replace the cover. Adjust
the thermostat, restore power, and test.
WIRING 1-2-3 157

Installing a whole-house fan
whole-house fan is ideal for spring and fall ventilation (page 155) and windows on the first floor must
SKILLS: Basic electrical and carpentry

skills
PROJECT: Installing a fan with a
thermostat and switch
Q cooling in hot climates and it may be the only
means of cooling you need in moderate
be open. Measure your home's square footage to choose the
right size fan to pull air from outside into the house in order
to provide a slight but cool breeze.
climates. For the fan to work, the attic must have adequate
EXPERIENCED: 6 hrs.
HANDY: 8 hrs.
NOVICE: 12 hrs.
TOOLS: Drill, ladder, saw, wire

strippers, lineman's pliers,
screwdriver
MATERIALS: Whole-house fan, screws, 2x 8 joists
junction box, switch box, cable with
clamps, wire nuts, electrician's tape
BUYER'S GUIDE
~~~ %----- — ..... •— \
STRONG, BUT NOT TOO

strong
The stronger the whole-house

fan, the cooler the house will be.
However, a fan that's too
powerful will waste electricity
and make too much noise. Aim
for a fan that exchanges the
house's air once every four
minutes. Determine the total
square footage of your home and
look at the charts provided by fan 2x 8 blocking
manufacturers to find out which
size fan you need. To be safe
2x4s laid flat
purchase a fan that's a little more
than you need, and make sure it
Position a whole-house fan fairly near the middle of an attic. joists. To seal the area below the fan, you may need to install
has a multispeed switch so you
If possible locate it between two joists, with another joist blocking, using 2x material of the same width as the joists. It
can operate it at lower speeds.
running between, as shown. You will need to cut through the is important to seal tightly, so dust and insulation do not seep
ceiling drywall or plaster, but will not need to cut through any into the room below.
158 WIRING 1-2-3

Wiring options
CLOSER LOOK
USING THEFAN
Make sure that the attic is
adequately vented, so air will
move freely to the outside.
Whenever the fan is on, open a
couple of windows or doors on
the first floor; otherwise, there
will be little cooling breeze. See
that there is a clear path between
the first-floor open windows and
2-speed
the fan.
switch
THROUGH-SWITCH WIRING END-LINE WIRING
Check to be sure that the fan will not overload the circuit If the most convenient source of power is in the attic, shut
(pages 112-113). If the most convenient source of power is off power to the circuit. Fish cable from the attic junction
in the space below, install a switch box in the hallway below. box to a new box in the hallway below, and wire it as shown.
Shut off power to the circuit. Run cable from the power In the example shown three-wire cable is used in order to
source to the new box, and run cable from the box to a wire a 2-speed switch.
junction box in the attic. Use three-wire cable if you want to
wire a multispeed switch. Wire the switch as shown.
Installing the fan
EXHAUST FANS AND VENTS
Fans are designed to be positioned over one joist so you don't have to With a helper, lift the fan up through the opening and into the attic. Add
compromise ceiling framing. Cut a 1x2-foot finder hole to confirm that the framing as needed so the fan is securely centered over a joist. Attach
fan will center on a joist. Mark the cutout for the louver and cut through brackets to the fan frame and position them so they will slip over the
the drywall or lath and plaster. The fan manufacturer will specify exposed joist. Center the fan over the opening and secure the brackets
dimensions for the hole. with bolts.
WIRING 1-2-3 159
SG 1311 (continued)
CONNECT THE WIRES

Pull back the insulation and cut pieces of After making sure that you will not overload a circuit A fan-rated rheostat switch lets you vary the fan
2x blocking to fill gaps at either side of the fan. At (pages 112-113), shut off power to the circuit. Tap speed. Bring the two-wire switch cable to the box,
each side cut two pieces to fit between the joists into a junction box or run cable up into the attic (see marking the white wire black at both ends. Splice it
(shown) or one notched piece that fits over the joist. pages 128-131). Local codes may require you to use to the black wires in the box. Splice the other switch
(Some manufacturers supply blocking.) Attach the armored cable instead of NM cable. wire to the fan's black wire and the fan's white to
wood to the joists by drilling pilot holes and the white wires in the box. Connect the ground.
attaching with 3-inch screws or 16-penny nails.
CLOSER LOOK
USING THE FAN

Whole-house fans can do wonders in the hotter
months of the year to keep your house cool. However,
in winter they can be a source of heat loss unless you
insulate them when they are not in use. In the winter
close the fan's shutters tightly and cover the fan with
insulation, so warm air cannot escape into the attic.
Just be sure to remove the insulation before you start
using the fan again the following year.
Install a fan-rated switch in the hallway, connecting Hold the louver panel against the ceiling so it covers
it to the cable you have run through the wall from the hole. Attach the panel by driving screws into the
the attic junction box. Use the switch manufacturer's joists and blocking. Restore power and test the fan.
directions to wire the switch.
160 WIRING 1-2-3

Installing a bathroom vent fan
vent fan considerably improves the atmosphere your room and determine how far the ductwork has to
in a bathroom by pulling out moisture, odors, travel. Then ask a home center salesperson to help you
SKILLS: Advanced electrical skills, and heat. Codes require bathrooms to have vent choose a fan and the ductwork to do the job shown on
carpentry, and roofing fans if there is no natural ventilation, such as a window. You pages 162-163. Keep in mind that air travels more freely
PROJECT: Installing a bathroom fan may opt for a fan even if you have a window, so you can through solid ducts than through flexible hoses.
that vents air through the roof or wall clear the air in rainy or cold weather. When choosing a fan ■ Consider the fan options. Some units have a fan only,
use these guidelines: while others include a ceiling light, a low-wattage night-
■ Make sure the fan will move the air. Unfortunately, many light, and even a forced-air heating unit.
bathroom fans do little more than make noise. This ■ Consider the wiring options. Some people prefer separate
EXPERIENCED: 8 hrs.
happens when either the fan is not strong enough or the switches for the bathroom fan and light. Keep in mind
HANDY: 12 hrs.
path through the ductwork is not free and clear. Measure that some local codes may require that the fan come on
NOVICE: 16 hrs.
whenever the overhead light is turned on.
INSTALLING DUCTWORK
TOOLS: Drill, fish tape, keyhole saw or

reciprocating saw, hammer, wire
strippers, lineman's pliers,
screwdriver
MATERIALS: Bathroom vent fan,
ducts, end cap or roof jack, straps
and screws, roofing cement, shingles,
roofing nails, duct tape, caulk,
wire nuts, cable with clamps,
TO
electrician's tape

RUNNING DUCT THROUGH A WALL roofing involved. However, it may be difficult
Choose the shortest and straightest route. A wall to run ductwork between joists.
vent is the easiest to install because there is no
Roof cap
THROUGH THE ROOF

may have no choice but to run ductwork through an attic and out the roof.
Choose a short, straight path and cut the roof and shingles correctly to avoid
leaks. Moist air inside the ducts can condense and drip onto insulation; you may
want to cover the duct with pipe insulation.
WIRING 1-2-3 161

From the attic above hold the fan against a joist and INSULATION On the underside of the roof, trace a circle just large
mark its outline with a pencil. Cut out the opening. Attach the fan to the joist with screws. Some enough for the roof cap tailpiece. Drill a hole large
If there is no attic above, use a stud sensor to locate models require a 6-inch gap between the unit and enough for the saw blade, then cut with a
a joist and cut the opening from below. Shut off insulation. Cut or push back the insulation; then cut reciprocating saw, saber saw, or keyhole saw. (If you
power to the circuit and provide power if none is pieces of 2x lumber to fit between the joists and run the ductwork out the wall, see Work Smarter on
present (page 140). attach the lumber with screws or nails. the opposite page.)
BUYER'S GUIDE
FAN EFFICIENCY AM D NOISE CONTROL

A label on the fan packaging will indicate how many
square feet of bathroom space the fan can
successfully dear. If there's any doubt, or if your
ductwork will be more than 5 feet long, get a
slightly more powerful fan than you need. (However,
don't overdo it. Keep the power of the fan
appropriate to the size of the room.) The SOME rating
on a fan indicates its sound-level rating. A 3 SONE
rating is quiet; a 7 will be very noisy.
CUT AWAY SHINGLES INSTALL THE ROOF CAP

Remove shingles from around the cutout without Smear roofing cement on the underside of the cap
damaging the underlying roofing paper. The lower flange. Slip the upper flange under the shingles as
part of the roof cap flange will rest on top of you insert the cap into the hole. Install the shingles
the shingles, and the top part will slip under on the side, smearing the undersides with roofing
the shingles. cement. Attach the flange with roofing nails and
cover the heads with roofing cement.
162 WIRING 1-2-3

CONNECT THE DUCTWORK WIRE THE SWITCH
Flexible ductwork is the easiest to run, but solid If wiring does not exist, run cable to the fan and to a For a fan/light switch that has power entering the
ducts are quieter and more efficient. At both the switch. If you are installing a fan/light, run three- switch box, splice the white wires and connect the
roof cap and the fan, slide a clamp over the duct wire cable from the switch to the fan. Connect the grounds. Connect power to both switches through
and slip the duct over the tailpiece. Slide the clamp wiring according to the manufacturer's directions. two pigtails spliced to the feed wire. Connect the
back over the tailpiece and tighten the clamp. Wrap Plug the motor into the built-in receptacle. red wire to one switch terminal and the black wire
the joint with duct tape.
WORK SMARTER

INSTALLING A WALL VENT
Even if there is an attic above, it is usually easier to
run the vent out through a gable wall rather than
through the roof. From inside the attic drill a locator
hole through to the outside, then cut out the siding
with a reciprocating saw, saber saw, or keyhole saw.
It often works best to shove in a length of solid
ductwork that reaches most of the way to the fan,
then run flexible duct the rest of the way.
Press the duct pipe into the cap. Use sheet-metal Caulk around the hole and push in the tailpiece.
screws to attach a piece of solid duct to the cap, Secure it with four screws. Caulk around the edge of
then caulk the joint or wrap it with duct tape. Apply the vent. Complete the connection to the fan
a bead of caulk to the back of the flange so it will indoors using solid or flexible ductwork.
seal against the siding.
WIRING 1-2-3 163

Adding a range hood
ost residential range hoods, if correctly installed,
remove smoke, odor, and heat from the kitchen.
Q TIME SAVER
SKILLS: Advanced electrical skills, To draw out cooking grease, you need a powerful
carpentry skills commercial model. DUCTLESS R AN 6I HOODS
PROJECT: Installing a range hood that For the best range hood efficiency, run the duct through Cutting a hole in the wall and
vents air from the kitchen through the wall directly behind the range hood, in as straight a line running ductwork is the most
the wall as possible. You can run the vents of most hoods out the time-consuming and difficult part
back or the top of the unit. of installing a range hood. Save
If a wall stud is in the way of the ductwork, you could do yourself the hassle by installing a
carpentry work to change the framing (page 165). Or ductless hood, which runs air
EXPERIENCED: 6 hrs.
purchase a hood with an extra-strong motor and run the duct through a filter and back into the
HANDY: 10 hrs.
around the stud. kitchen rather than moving it
NOVICE: 14 hrs.
Before you purchase a fan, check its "cfm " rating—which outside. This unit will not be as
indicates the number of cubic feet of air it pulls per minute. effective at removing smoke and
Choose a fan with a cfm rating that is double the square odors, however, and you'll need to
TOOLS: Drill, fish tape, saber saw or footage of your kitchen. change filters fairly often.
reciprocating saw, hammer and cold
chisel, screwdriver, wire strippers,
lineman's pliers
MATERIALS: Range hood, solid duct, CLOSER LOOK
wall cap, masonry screws, cable and
POSSIBLE DUCT
clamps, wire nuts, electrician's tape,
ARRANGEMENTS
caulk, safety goggles
Make sure the range hood comes
with all the ductwork you need, as
well as a wall cap for the outside. Roof vent

The most common arrangement is
to run the duct straight out the
back of the hood and through the
wall. However, you also can piece
together rectangular or round
ducting to go up and over and
through the wall. Or you can go up
through the roof.
164 WIRING 1-2-3

MARK FOR HOLES
Remove the filter, fan, and electrical housing cover LOCATOR HOLE Connect the dots between the holes on the outside
from the range hood. Use a hammer and Cut holes through the drywall or plaster. Using a to mark the outline of the hole. Using a reciprocating
screwdriver to remove the knockouts for the long bit, drill holes at each corner all the way saw, saber saw with an extra-long blade, or keyhole
electrical cable and the duct. Hold the hood in place through the outside wall. (If your exterior is brick or saw, cut the outline. Remove insulation or debris
and mark the holes for the duct and the cable. block, see page 166.) that would interfere with installing the duct.

CLOSER LOOK
FRAMING AROUND A STUD j put m m m um hood out m th e o p en

If a stud is in the way of your duct, you may need to cut the stud and install If there is no cabinet above the range hood -or if you want a sleek new
new framing. Cut an opening in the stud that is the height of the duct, plus look—consider buying an exposed range hood. It can be vented through the
5 inches to accommodate the header above and the plate below. Make a roof or the wall. You will likely need to special-order pieces of stainless-steel
header out of two 2x4s with a strip of inch plywood sandwiched between. ductwork to suit your situation.
WIRING 1-2-3 165

Push the wall cap into the wall to see if the duct is long enough to reach the Shut off power to the circuit. Run cable from a nearby receptacle or junction box
range hood. If not, purchase an extension and attach it with sheet metal screws through the hole in the wall (pages 128-131). Strip the sheathing and clamp the
and duct tape. Apply caulk to the siding where the cap flange will rest. Push the cable to the range hood electrical knockout. Mount the hood securely by driving
cap into place and fasten with screws. Caulk the perimeter of the flange. screws into studs or adjacent cabinets.
CLOSER LOOK
VENTING THROUGH A MASONRY WALL

Use a long masonry bit to drill the locator holes cold chisel to chip between the holes. To attach
(see Step 2, page 165). Draw the outline the duct cap, drill holes and drive masonry
carefully, double-checking that you can slip in the screws. Older homes may have double-thick brick
vent with room to spare. Drill holes about every walls—a real challenge!
inch along the outline; then use a hammer and
Splice the white wire to the white fixture lead, black wire to
black lead, and the ground wire to the green lead. Fold the
wires into place and replace the electrical cover. Reattach the
fan and filter. Restore power and test.
166 WIRING 1-2-3

Outdoor wiring projects
LOW-VOLTAGE LANDSCAPE LIGHTS
LOW-VOLTAGE DECK LIGHTS
INSTALLING MOTION-SENSOR LIGHTS
ADDING AN OUTDOOR RECEPTACLE
RUNNING CONDUIT AND CABLE
INSTALLING A LAMPPOST
utdoor lighting extends the length of an evening patio party, helps
you carry in the groceries without tripping, and provides an
important measure of security. To install lights and receptacles
outdoors, you will use many of the same techniques as for indoor wiring. But be sure to
use materials suitable for exterior applications: outdoor light fixtures, watertight boxes,
underground feeder (UF) cable, and perhaps watertight conduit.
If you already have an exterior receptacle, you can probably tap into it to provide
power for several lights and another receptacle or two. However, first make sure that
doing so will not overload the circuit (pages 48-49 and 112-113).
Building codes can vary greatly from town to town, so check to make sure your
installation meets requirements. Learn how deep a trench you need for running the
cable, what type of cable or conduit to use, and how close the lights can come to the
property border. The exception is low-voltage lighting, which can be installed without
an inspection.
WIRING 1-2-3 167

Low-voltage landscape lights
ow-voltage landscape
lights-those that are
SKILLS: No special skills are required 12-volt AC—literally
PROJECT: Installing a series of 6 to are a snap to install. The lighting
8 low-voltage landscape lights parts snap together, and the
connectors snap into place. The
cable looks like a lamp cord.
Landscape lights are available
EXPERIENCED: 1 hr.
in a package that contains the
HANDY: 2 hrs.
transformer, the lights, and the
NOVICE: 3 hrs.
connectors that you'll need. You
also can buy the system piece
by piece so you get exactly what
TOOLS: Screwdriver, drill, tool for you want. Talk with the sales
trenching, lineman's pliers staff to make sure you get the
MATERIALS: Set of outdoor right transformer.
landscaping lights with a If necessary, splice low-voltage MOST LOW-VOLTAGE LIGHTING SYSTEMS INCLUDE A TRANSFORMER THAT IS
transformer/timer wires. Strip the wires, put in a PLUGGED INTO A REGULAR OUTDOOR RECEPTACLE
silicone-filled cap (sold as a grease The size of the transformer varies; most are rated to handle a load of 100 to 300 watts.
cap), and attach the new wire. The higher the rating, the more cable and light fixtures you can connect to the system. A
Some caps are brand-specific, so timer in the transformer turns the system on at dusk and off at dawn. One end of the
make sure you buy a cap designed cable connects to the transformer; you can attach lights to the cable anywhere you want.
for your wire.
WIRE THE TRANSFORMER HANG THE TRANSFORMER

A transformer steps the voltage down from 120 volts to Mount the transformer on the wall next to a GFCI outlet. For
12 volts. Attaching the cable for the lights is an easy task of most types of siding, you can make the attachment with a
screwing the wires in place. Details vary by manufacturer, so wood screw. Drive it into the plywood of the sheathing
follow the directions that come with the transformer. underneath the siding. For masonry drill a hole and drive a
masonry screw.
168 WIRING 1-2-3

REAL WORLD
A friend has a long walk that

leads to his garage. He wanted to
light the path with low-voltage
lighting and bought a kit, plus a
few extra lights. Unfortunately,
when he turned the system on,
the lighting was extremely dim.
The transformer couldn't supply
enough power for a long cable
with so many lights. Ask the
salesperson if the transformer
you're buying will do the job you
want it to do.
ASSEMBLE THE LIGHTS PLACE THE LIGHTS

Light fixtures usually require assembly. You'll need to snap Lay the light fixtures in the approximate spots they will
the socket in place at the very least, and you may need to do be installed, and run the cable across the ground from light
some simple wiring. Follow the manufacturer's directions. to light.
CONNECT THE LIGHTS DIG FOR THE CABLE SET THE TIMER
Attach the cable connectors. For this light put half Dig a shallow trench alongside the cable and place Plug the transformer into the outdoor receptacle and
the connecter on each side of the cable and snap it the cable in the trench, but do not bury it yet. set the timer. Cover the GFCI outlet with a plastic
together to connect the lights. cover, usually sold separately. Test the lights; if they
work correctly, bury the cable.
WIRING 1-2-3 169

Low-voltage deck lights
variety of low-voltage lights are designed to be salesperson for a catalog, and special-order them. Some
attached to wood surfaces. If they are not on mount to the side of a wall, others are inserted into a stair
SKILLS: Basic carpentry skills, making display at your local home center, ask a riser, and still others attach to the top of a post.
simple connections
PROJECT: Installing 3 or 4 deck lights
EXPERIENCED: 1 hr.
HANDY: 2 hrs.
NOVICE: 3 hrs.
TOOLS: Screwdriver, drill, carpentry

tools, lineman's pliers
MATERIALS: Set of outdoor deck lights
with a transformer/timer
CONNECT TO A TRANSFORMER
To power these lights plug a transformer into a receptacle 169). Anchor the cable with staples made for the purpose—
and run light-gauge cable from the transformer to the lights, regular staples may damage the insulation,
as you would for low-voltage landscaping lights (pages 168-
POST CAP LIGHT RISER LIGHT

Choose a post light that will easily attach to your posts. You A riser fixture lights your way as you climb stairs. To install
can simply staple the cable to the side of a post. Or cut a one either remove the tread or work from underneath. Use a
channel (which will later be covered with a piece of trim) drill and saber saw to cut a hole in the riser, insert the light,
and drill a hole through the deck for running a hidden cable. hook up the wires, and screw the light in place.
170 WIRING 1-2-3

Installing motion-sensor lights
SKILLS: Stripping and splicing wires
PROJECT: Installing and adjusting a
motion-sensor light
EXPERIENCED: 1 hr.
HANDY: 1.5 hrs.
NOVICE: 2 hrs.
TOOLS: Wire strippers, screwdriver,

drill
MATERIALS: Motion sensor light, wire
CONNECT THE LIGHT POSITION THE LIGHT
nuts, electrician's tape, perhaps a
Shut off power at the service panel, and remove the Restore power. Loosen the locknuts and twist the light until it
mounting strap
existing floodlight. If necessary, install a swivel strap (page is directed where you want it. Tighten the locknuts. At night
85). Run the wires through the rubber gasket, and splice turn the light on permanently by flipping off the wall switch,
them with wire nuts. While mounting the light to the box, then on again. Aim the lights, then tighten the nuts to hold
position the gasket so it will keep the box dry. them in place.
otion-sensor lights
greet you when you
come home at night,
REAL W O R L D
and they discourage potential
burglars. If you have an existing
floodlight, they are easy to install. Installing a floodlight that is activated by movement can provide
(To install an exterior box for a new security when entering a home at night, but if positioned at
light, see pages 172-173.) the wrong angle, it can prove to be annoying to neighbors or
Choose a fixture that lets you people just passing by. Be aware of where the light is installed
control the time and the sensitivity and positioned.
to motion. If the light is connected
to a switch inside the house, you
can override the motion sensor so
the light stays on or off.
To activate the motion sensor, manufacturer's instructions will

probably tell you to turn off the wall switch, wait a few
seconds, and turn it back on. Choose how long you want the
light to stay on (ON TIME). There may be a control that keeps
the light less bright for the amount of time you choose (DUAL
BRIGHT). Set the RANGE to the middle position, and test how
sensitive the motion sensor is by walking around near it.
Adjust if necessary.
WIRING 1-2-3 171

Adding an outdoor receptacle
nless you need an outdoor receptacle in a Ensure that you will not be overloading a circuit when
particular location, plan the easiest path for the installing the outdoor receptacle (pages 112-113). If you plug
SKILLS: Running cable through walls, cable. One option is to install it nearly (but not in too many Christmas lights or plan to use heavy-duty
stripping and connecting wires exactly) back-to-back with an indoor receptacle. Or run cable power tools, you may need to place the receptacle on its
PROJECT: Installing an outdoor GFCI through the basement ceiling and out the rim joist. own circuit (pages 192-193). Local codes may require that
receptacle Even if you install a weatherproof cover, place the you have a separate circuit for outdoor electrical service. See
receptacle in a dry location and at least 16 inches above the pages 128-131 for tips on fishing cable through walls.
ground. Codes require that an outdoor receptacle be a ground
fault circuit interrupter (GFCI).
EXPERIENCED: 2 hrs.
HANDY: 4 hrs.
NOVICE: 6 hrs.
TOOLS: Drill with long bit, saber saw

or keyhole saw, wire strippers,
screwdriver, lineman's pliers,
hammer (for masonry walls, a
masonry bit and cold chisel)
MATERIALS: GFCI receptacle, cable
with clamps, remodel box, in-use
cover, wire nuts, electrician's tape
DRILL A LOCATOR HOLE CUT THE HOLE FOR THE RECEPTACLE

Shut off power to the circuit. Pull out an interior receptacle On the outside cut a hole for a receptacle box. Drill a second
and detach it. Using a hammer and screwdriver, open a hole as an entry point and use a saber saw with an extra-
knockout hole in the back of the receptacle box. Put a long long blade, a reciprocating saw, or a keyhole saw. If the
bit or a bit extension in your drill. (Use a masonry bit if your exterior is masonry, see page 166 for tips on cutting the hole.
exterior is brick.) Poke the bit through the hole in the box.
The wall may not be thick enough to fit back-to-back
receptacles, so aim the drill bit at an angle. Drill through
to the outside.
172 WIRING 1-2-3

WORK SMARTER
RUN THE CABLE

Cut cable about 2 feet longer than you need, and strip the
sheathing from both ends. Have a helper push the cable from
indoors as you pull it out through the hole. Clamp the cable
to the remodel box and mount the box (pages 132-133).
If your basement ceiling is unfinished, this is junction box. Cut a hole through the rim joist and
Install a new GFCI receptacle outside (page 74). Connect to
probably the easiest method. Shut off power siding, and staple the cable to the joist,
power in the interior box.
to the circuit and tap into a receptacle or
Adding an extension ring to the

receptacle box allows you to run
cable or conduit from the receptacle
to supply outdoor lights and other
receptacles. Two screws attach the
extension ring to the box. Remove
one or more knockouts in the ring to
extend the circuit.
INSTALL AN IN-USE COVER

This kind of cover will keep the receptacle dry even when it
has a cord plugged into it and it can be locked shut. In
addition to the plastic cover, install the rubber gasket behind
the plate. Restore the power and test the receptacle.
WIRING 1-2-3 173

Running conduit and cable
hough you can run
cable to an outdoor
SKILLS: Basic wiring skills, working light or outlet several
with conduit, digging trenches ways, the easiest is with UF cable,
PROJECT: Running outdoor conduit which is waterproof and can be
and running wires for a line about buried directly in the ground. Code
40 feet long requires that you protect the cable
above ground, so you'll have to do
some basic conduit work where
the cable enters and exits the
EXPERIENCED: 2 hrs.
ground.
HANDY: 3 hrs.
Other methods require you to
NOVICE: 4 hrs.
enclose wiring in conduit for the
entire length of the trench. You
won't have to bury the cable quite
TOOLS: Shovel, hammer, drill, as deeply, but you will have to fish
INSIDE THE HOUSE, CABLE RUNS FROM THE BREAKER BOX TO A JUNCTION
screwdriver, plastic pipe cutter, caulk wires and cut conduit. It's best to
BOX NEAR THE FOUNDATION WALL
gun, wire strippers stick with UF.
Inside the junction box each wire in the cable is attached to a corresponding wire in a UF
MATERIALS: PVC conduit and fittings,
(underground feeder) cable. A length of conduit, called a nipple, protects the cable's run
wire or UF cable, outdoor boxes
through the wall. Outside, attach the nipple to an LB fitting-an L-shape fitting with a
and fixtures
removable plate that turns the cable toward the ground. The fitting attaches to conduit
that goes down the house wall into a 24-inch-deep trench. The conduit then stops and
the cable continues along the bottom of the trench. At the end of the trench it reenters
conduit and is routed up to the fixture it will power.
Installing PVC conduit
Drill where you want the wire to enter the house, at a point Cut a PVC nipple to length so it extends 1 inch into the
just above the foundation. Measure and make sure the hole basement, and test the fit. Glue it to the LB fitting and push
will go through the rim joist and not into the foundation or first the assembly into the hole until the fitting is against the wall
floor. Make the hole wide enough to accommodate the short of the house.
section of conduit that protects the cable.
174 WIRING 1-2-3

it;ii
DIG A TRENCH ATTACH A PIECE OF CONDUIT TO
Dig a trench for the cable below the LB fitting. THE LB FITTING Glue the elbow in place. The lower end should be at
Make the trench about the width of a shovel and Cut a piece of conduit to reach from the fitting to an the bottom of the trench. UF cable will come out the
24 inches deep. Code requires this depth for UF elbow at the bottom of the trench. Spread PVC opening and travel directly along the bottom of the
cables buried without conduit. solvent cement onto the conduit and push it into trench until it reaches the other end.
the fitting.
BUYER'S GUIDE
Code lets you bury NMWU cable directly in the

ground, which is the easiest method of running a
Nipple circuit, but you also can run conduit the length of the
trench. If you do, you won't have to bury the cable
quite as d e e p -1 8 inches instead of 24 inches. You
Metal conduit, which is more durable and less likely will, however, have to fish cable through the conduit.
to be damaged accidentally, is required instead. With Running UF or other cable through conduit meets
metal conduit all connections must be made with code, but cable adds expense and the sheathing may
compression fittings, which have a compression ring make it difficult to fish. Most electricians feed three
(like plumbing fittings do) to keep out water. Thin- single wires, known as TW wires, through the conduit
walled tubing, called EMT (electrical metallic tubing), instead. If you do this, run the conduit first, and glue
is the easiest conduit to use. A nipple connects an the sections together. Once the conduit is in place,
interior junction box to an exterior metal LB fitting. fish all three wires at once.
Metal conduit extends down from the fitting to 6
inches above grade, where a compression fitting is
screwed to a plastic transition fitting. An elbow is
added at the bottom and then the cable runs along
the bottom of the trench to the area requiring power.
WIRING 1-2-3 175

Running lengths of conduit often
requires a fair amount of cutting.
Begin by clamping the conduit in
a vise. Cut PVC conduit with a
hacksaw that has a blade with 32
teeth per inch. Then remove any
burrs with a utility knife and
bevel the outside edges to fit the
couplings. For metal conduit use a
pipe cutter or hacksaw that has a
blade with 18 teeth per inch.
Wrap a piece of masking tape
around the area that is to be cut
to prevent the blade from
slipping. Remove any burrs with a
half-round file.
Fasten the conduit to the house wall with plastic straps. Drill Caulk the gaps between the siding and the conduit to create
holes in the foundation and use masonry screws to screw the a watertight seal,
straps in place.
Running the cable
LAY CABLE
Remove the cover from the LB fitting. Install the CONDUIT To hook the cable onto the fish tape, bend the cable
fixture at the other end of the trench and uncoil Pushing wire through a conduit by itself is next to to form a hook and interlock it to the fish tape. Use
enough UF cable to reach up from the trench to the impossible, so use fish tape—a flat, springy length of black electrical tape to bind the fish tape and the
fixture-plus approximately 2 feet-and leave it at the metal in a roll. Insert the end into the fitting and cable together. Then pull the tape and the cable
end of the trench. Then work your way back toward push the tape until it reaches the end of the conduit. through the conduit elbow. Use conduit lubricant to
the house, laying cable in the trench as you go. make pulling easier and to prevent damage to
the cable.
176 WIRING 1-2-3

Installing a lamppost
lamppost and light
fixture are usually sold
0 SAFETY ALERT
as a unit. The majority HOT TO THE TOUCH

of the work is in digging a trench Halogen and mercury-vapor lights
and running cable from the house are extremely hot when they are on.
to the spot where the lamp will be
installed. The depth of the trench
depends on whether you use
conduit in the trench (see pages WORK SMARTER
174-176). In this case UF cable is
buried 24 inches deep.
Anchor the post in a footing
Use this method whether running
made of quick-setting concrete
cable or conduit. Cut a piece of
poured in a fiber tube form. Keep
metal conduit 2 feet longer than
the post vertical while the concrete
the sidewalk width and flatten
sets using 2x4s staked to the
one end with a hammer to make
ground and clamped to the post.
WHAT YOU DON'T SEE WHEN YOU LOOK AT A LAMPPOST a sharp point. Drive the pipe
Lampposts may differ in fixture
IS THE WORK THAT WENT INTO IT under the sidewalk with a
styles or in material used for the
Here waterproof UF (underground feed) cable is buried in a trench 24 inches deep and hammer and a block of wood. Cut
posts. However, the electrical
runs from the house to the location of the post. (If you run conduit, you can dig a off the sharp end with a hacksaw.
connections are the same for all
shallower trench. See pages 174-176.) A concrete footing made with a fiber tube form Install a plastic bushing at each
types of posts.
provides support for the lamppost. The wire connections are a simple matter of joining end so the cable won't get nicked
When working with electricity,
three pairs of wires with wire nuts. as it is pulled through the conduit.
always turn off the power by
shutting off the appropriate
breaker at the service panel.
DIG THE TRENCH ATTACH THE LIGHT

Dig a trench 24 inches deep and a hole deep Strip the cable wires and connect them to wires in Screw the cap to the top of the post, then mount
enough for the lamppost and wide enough for a the light. Twist and connect the black wire to the the light socket in the cap. The mounting method
fiber tube form. Cut the form to reach the bottom black wire, the white to the white, and the ground depends on the type of fixture. Check the
and cut a slot in the bottom for the conduit elbow. to the ground. Tuck the wires into the post. instructions that came with the lamppost.
Fish cable from the trench through the conduit, and
lower the post into the form. Fill the form with
concrete per manufacturer's instructions. Brace the
post until the concrete is set.
WIRING 1-2-3 177

Home networking
PLANNING FOR A HOME NETWORK
INSTALLING TELEPHONE W IRING
DISTRIBUTING TELEPHONE LINES
RUNNING COAXIAL CABLE
INSTALLING A NETWORK PANEL
n addition to having miles of standard-voltage wiring, your home
O
REAL W ORLD
likely has hundreds of yards of thin wires that carry little or no
DRILL NEW HOLES
TV cables and phone cables power. These wires lead to telephones, thermostats, door chimes,
require separate holes. Threading
VCRs, and TVs.
the cable through the same hole
will result in static and buzzing on These wires and cables carry voltage that is so low it cannot harm you. Still, you
the phone line. Always keep
should respect low-voltage wiring. Once the wiring is damaged, it can be difficult to
phone and TV cable 2 inches
apart from electrical cable when diagnose and repair the problem. Hide low-voltage wiring inside walls or behind
running parallel, and 1 inch apart
moldings when possible. If wires must be exposed, pull them taut and staple
wherever they cross.
them firmly.
178 WIRING 1-2-3

Planning for a home network
f your household has two or more computers, speaker wire connectors. A home office needs voice and data
O several television sets, Internet access, a couple

of telephone lines, and maybe a fax machine, it
may be time to consider installing a home network.
perhaps you are yet again adding to the tangle of cables
running along the baseboard-and are getting more than a
ports; even a shop area might benefit from Internet access.
And don't forget the kitchen. In addition to outlets for a
Ortelevision and a phone, it needs Internet access. And if you
someday expect to own a stove or refrigerator with "smart"
technology that allows you to launch meal preparation
vx
little confused about what cable goes where. The devices remotely, even your appliances may need nearby data jacks.
CAT5e cable
strung together with low-voltage lines are with us to stay;
it makes sense to install a permanent system to H o m e n e t w o r k c a b lin g
accommodate them. The workhorse cable for home networking is CAT 5e cable.
This eight-wire cable is designed for high-speed data
C onsid er y o u r n e t w o r k n e e d s transmission, but it can also be used in place of 4- or 6-wire
A home network lends order to the devices you have and CAT 3 telephone cable. CAT 5e is available in several colors, RG6/U coaxial cable
has built-in flexibility so it is ready to make room for the new which is useful when you are "bundling" several cables (see
innovations in communication and entertainment that are yet page 187). For video and Internet cable access, use RG6/U
to come. Consider the potential networking needs for each coaxial cable. Both CAT 5e and RG6/U coaxial cable can be
room in the house. For example, a basic setup for each bought in a variety of lengths up to 100 feet, with connectors
bedroom might be an outlet that has a video jack, a phone factory-attached. These connectors are a bit tricky to attach,
jack or two, and a data jack for a computer. A living room, so ready-made cables are an advantage. However, you can
family room, or great-room could benefit from an outlet that buy bulk amounts of cable and, with special tools, attach
could serve an entertainment center, including a couple of connectors yourself (see pages 184-185 and 188).
video jacks, two phone or data jacks, and two pairs of
MULTIPURPOSE OUTLETS
At the user end of the network, outlets
like this combine voice, data, and
video jacks. Snap-in jacks allow you to
customize the outlet to meet your needs.
CABLE BEHIND THE WALLS

This is an example of how a home network can link various panel located in a downstairs closet makes it
communication and entertainment devices. The network easy to alter services and add new cable.
WIRING 1-2-3 179
Drawing a plan
Even if your immediate goal is only to add a video outlet or telephone
extension, making a master plan for a whole-house network still makes
sense. You may find that while pulling one cable, you can add another
for future use. At the very least you'll have a plan you can build upon.
A home network doesn't require a highly precise plan; all that is necessary
is a drawing roughly to scale (helpful in estimating how much cable you'll
need) with the location of each outlet and the types of jack you want in
each outlet.
Give each outlet a code that you'll use for labeling cable. The first
outlet in a master bedroom might be "MB1." The third of three outlets in
the family room might be "FR3." As you label each cable (see page 187),
indicate its specific use-"MB1-V" for a voice line or "MB1-D" for a data
line, for example.
In making your plan be aware that your modem should always be
next to a computer so you can troubleshoot any Internet service problems.
To let other computers share Internet access, you'll need a router. It can be BASEMENT OR CRAWLSPACE
located next to the modem or in the network panel.
Routing cable
The ideal setup for a home network has a
centrally located network panel. This panel
neatly puts all the primary voice, data, audio,
and video connections in one place, allowing
you to alter existing services or add new cables
as needs change. For making cable runs the
HANDLE W ITH CARE attic is ideal. In two-story homes you may have
Network cabling is more delicate to use the crawlspace or basement as well. A
than standard electrical wiring. 2- or 3-inch PVC pipe located near the network
RG6/U cable should not be bent panel is a convenient way to route cables in a CABLE DEFENSE
to more than a 21/Hnch radius; CAT two-story house. Such a pipe also makes it easy Protect your cable runs by running them through or along the sides of
HOME NETWORKING
5e no more than a 1-inch radius. to pull additional cable at a later date. A single framing members-wherever they are least likely to get snagged or
Both can be pulled using a fish run of CAT 5e can be up to 300 feet long-far stepped on. Use protective strips when running cable perpendicular to
tape, but always have a helper more than most homes would require. RG6/U attic joists where items might be stored.
unkink and feed the cables into can run as far, but if you split it to more than
the wall cavity as you pull. (For three outlets, you'll need to add an amplifier
tips on preparing pathways and (see page 189).
pulling cable, see pages 131-131).
Securing network wiring

Unlike standard electrical boxes, boxes and brackets for network wiring are open at the
back. Their main function is to provide a means of fastening the outlet faceplate and its
various snap-in jacks to the wall. Both "old-work" and "new-work" brackets are
available. Use plastic, not metal, cable staples. Make a neat installation, with the cable
well out of the way of possible damage. Install a staple every foot or so. Attach cable
along the sides of attic joists so it will not be be crushed by someone stepping on it. In
basements or crawlspaces bore access holes through the floor joists if the cable runs
perpendicular to the joists. If you must cross over AC wiring, do so at a 90-degree angle
and make sure the two cables do not touch.
180 WIRING 1-2-3

Installing telephone wiring
dding a new telephone jack is straightforward
SKILLS: Attaching with screws;

stapling, stripping, and connecting
thin wires
PROJECT: Running about 50 feet of
Q work. Just run cable and connect wires to
terminals labeled with their colors. The most
difficult part is hiding the cable.
Depending on your service arrangement, it may be less
expensive to have the phone company install new service for
BUYER'S GUIDE
As long as you're running phone lines, spend

a little more for Category 5e cable, which can
handle connections for Internet and high-speed
phone cable and installing two jacks you. The lines they install will be under warranty-all future
data networks as well as standard telephone
repairs will be free.
connections.
Not all telephone wires are made to the same
specifications. It is worth paying the slightly higher cost for
EXPERIENCED: 2 hrs.
solid-core wires within the cable because they are less likely
HANDY: 4 hrs.
to result in faulty connections.
NOVICE: 6 hrs.
Make all connections in a jack or junction box. Plan cable
paths so as little of the cable as possible can be seen. For
instance, going through a wall (page 182) saves you from
TOOLS: Drill, screwdriver, lineman's running unsightly cable around door moldings. Use these
pliers, wire strippers same techniques to run speaker wire.
MATERIALS: Solid-core telephone
cable, phone jacks, staples
W ORK SMARTER
x
mmiMwmm
The wires withing Category 5e
cable are telephone wires and are
fragile. Don't bend, flatten, or
otherwise compromise these
wires. A damaged wire can result
E NETWORKING
in a distorted connection,
especially for computers.
OPTION A: TAP INTO A PHONE JACK OPTION B: USE PUSH-ON CONNECTORS

Unscrew the cover from a phone jack or a phone junction Some jacks have terminals that clamp onto the wire so you
box. Strip about 2 inches of sheathing and \ inch insulation don't have to strip it. Just push the wire down into the slot
from each wire. (Standard phones use only two of the wires, until it snaps into place.
but it doesn't hurt to connect all the wires.) Loosen each
terminal screw. Bend the wire end in a clockwise loop, slip it
under the screw head, and tighten the screw.
WIRING 1-2-3 181

HIDE CABLE RUN CABLE THROUGH A WALL
Use any trick you can think of to tuck away To go through a wall, drill a hole using a long, \ When there is no choice but to leave cable exposed,
unsightly cable. Pry moldings away from the wall, inch drill bit, then insert a large drinking straw. Fish staple it in place every foot or so along the top
slip the cable in behind, and renail the molding. Or the cable through the straw. When you're finished, of the baseboard. Use a round-top stapler or
pull carpeting back one short section at a time, run split and remove the straw. plastic-shielded staples that hammer into place.
cable along the floor behind the tack strip, and push (Square-cornered staples damage the
the carpet back into place. cable sheathing.)
Installing a wall jack

HOME NETWORKING
A wall jack can attach to a low-voltage ring (as Drill a %-inch hole at the bottom of the wall where Attach the base of the jack and make the
A you want the wire to go. Bend a piece of wire into a
shown) or to an electrical remodel box. Cut a hole in connections. Install the cover plate.
the wall and install the ring. Tie a small weight to a hook, slip it into the hole, and pull out a loop of the
string and lower it through the hole until you feel it string. Tape the string to the cable and pull the cable
hit the floor. up through the remodel box.
182 WIRING 1-2-3

Distributing telephone lines
split 66 block is used to "distribute" incoming
SKILLS: Stripping cable, following

logic of circuits
PROJECT: Connecting low-voltage
phone lines
Q lines to the various extensions throughout the
house. The block has four columns of punch-
down terminals. The first two columns (think of them as A
and B) are connected as are the last two (C and D). However,
columns B and C are not connected unless you press into
place a metal bridging clip (see step 3). While not as versatile
as the voice and data modules used in network panels (see
pages 186-189), a 66 block is a great way to organize your
EXPERIENCED: 2 hrs.
phone lines. Here's how to install three incoming "trunk"
HANDY: 3 hrs.
lines to several extensions.
NOVICE: 4 hrs.
SPEED THE JOB WITH A PUNCH-DOWN TOOL
A spring-mounted punch-down tool not only pushes a wire
into a punch-down terminal or jack, it automatically trims off
TOOLS: Drill, screwdriver bits,
excess wire. Ideal if you'll be making a lot of connections, it
longnose pliers,cutting pliers
uses reversible multipurpose tips. The 66 block tip must be
MATERIALS: 66 block, CAT 5e cable,
bought separately.
bridging clips, cable clips
HOME NETWORKING
CONNECT THE INCOMING LINE AND INSTALL JUMPERS ADD BRIDGING CLIPS
ALL EXTENSIONS Strip a foot or so of cable of its outer jacket. Separate To complete the connection across the columns of
Using a longnose pliers or punch-down tool, push the wires and use them as jumpers to connect each the block, purchase bridging clips. Push them into
the incoming wires in place. No stripping is required extension wire to its incoming line. One wire can place between the incoming lines and the six wires
(the terminals bite through the insulation when you jump to several extensions-punch the jumper in of the first three extension lines.
push the wire in), but you'll need to nip off excess where needed and trim it off at the final connection.
wire. The green and red lines are line one, black and
yellow line two, and blue and white line three. The
first extension cable on the right side of the block
carries all three lines to one outlet (personal,
business, and fax lines); the other extensions go to
outlets with only one line. Fold back unused lines.
WIRING 1-2-3 183

Running coaxial cable
able TV companies will run new lines and install
SKILLS: Stripping with a knife, fishing

and attaching cable
PROJECT: Installing a splitter, about
30 feet of cable, and a jack
Q jacks. Some do simple installations for free; for
longer runs they may charge and may not hide
as much of the cable as you like. They also may increase your
monthly fee after installing a second or third jack. Still it's
worth checking out the service options before doing your
own installations.
ET0CG Purchase RG6 coaxial cable for all runs through the
house. Don't use RG59, which has less-substantial wire
EXPERIENCED: 2 hrs.
wrapping. Coaxial cable is thick and ugly, so fish it through
HANDY: 4 hrs.
walls when possible (pages 128-131).
NOVICE: 6 hrs.
If your cable signal is weak after adding new lines, install
a signal booster to solve the problem. The booster attaches
to the coaxial cable and plugs into a receptacle.
TOOLS: Drill, screwdriver, knife, wire MAKE A MALE END
strippers Use wire strippers to strip % inch of insulation, exposing the
MATERIALS: Coaxial cable, splitter, bare wire. Do not bend the exposed wire. With a knife
male connectors, wall jack, staples carefully strip and additional 3/s inch of the thin outer
sheathing only-do not cut through the metal mesh
wrapping. Firmly twist a screw-on F-connector according to
the instructions on its package. Some connectors require you
to peel back a portion of the metal mesh wrapping.
Cut the line you want to tap into. Install male ends on both Cut a hole in the wall and run cable to it using the technique
ends of the cut line and the end of the new line. Insert and shown on page 182. (A regular electrical box can be used,
twist all three male connectors onto a signal splitter. Anchor though a low-voltage ring is preferable. See page 182.) Strip
the splitter with screws. the insulation to make a male end in the cable. Clamp the
mounting brackets in the hole. Attach the cable end to the
back of the jack by twisting on the F-connector. Tighten the
connection with pliers or a wrench. Attach the jack to the
wall by driving screws into the mounting brackets.
184 WIRING 1-2-3

Coaxial connection options
MULTI-JACK CONNECTION RIGHT-ANGLE A D A PTER

An F-connector, whether a crimp-on type (see opposite page) or non-strip Coaxial cable can be damaged if it is bent to more than a 21/Hnch radius.
(shown), is used to attach coaxial cable to multi-jack outlets. The video Add the F-connector to that and you need about 4 inches of clearance to
jacks snap into the outlet plate. connect to an outlet. A right-angle video adapter makes the best of tight
quarters without compromising the cable.
Keeping water out
ONE-STEP STRIPPING
If your network calls for numerous coaxial
connections, consider investing in this one-step
coaxial cable stripper. With one squeeze and a
pull, you can cleanly strip the jacket from the
U SIN G D R IP LOOPS metallic shield (always tricky) and the insulation
Where your coaxial cable meets that of the cable provider, the cable from from the center copper pin (otherwise tough to
the satellite, or antenna, coil two drip loops and fasten them in place with do without nicking).
cable staples. The loops direct moisture away from the connector.
WIRING 1-2-3 185

Installing a network panel
network panel helps tame that
0
SKILLS: Stripping cable, following
logic of circuits
PROJECT: Organize cables and devices
by installing a network panel and
Q tangle of cable and devices that
make up most home networks and
is designed to let you easily make changes as
needed. For a modest investment you can put
together a panel and its component modules
component modules that will bring your home into the cyber age.
Locate the panel away from your breaker
EXPERIENCED: 4 hrs.
SSh box or subpanel. Avoid areas like basements,
garages, and attics where there is wide
temperature variation or high humidity. A
HANDY: 6 hrs.
centrally located closet or utility room is the best
NOVICE: 8 hrs.
location. A panel needs a 120-volt receptacle
nearby to plug in power module adapters. More
elaborate panels have a power source module
TOOLS: Drill, screwdriver bits, that will require running a new 120-volt line.
combination strippers, longnose and
cutting pliers, punch-down tool,
torpedo level QUICK CHANGE
MATERIALS: Panel, panel door, Change is the one constant in home networking. A network panel allows
bushings, telephone distribution you to easily upgrade and alter your system. Should you need to add a
panel, voice and data module, new phone extension, change a voice line to a data line, or add a new
coaxial distribution panel, video Incoming phone line video line, a network panel helps ease the transition.
amplifier, power module, patch Incoming cable
cords, 2-inch general-purpose

screws, wire wraps
Television
HOME NETWORKING
Television
HOME NETWORK
PANEL
This example of a home
network shows how
Video am plifier dat3 mo(|u|e various modules link
devices throughout your
house. Patch cords allow
Telephone you to quickly change the
distribution of voice and
Fax machine
data lines. Modules ease
the addition of new lines.
186 WIRING 1-2-3

LABELING TH AT HANGS TIGHT
Label each cable using self-
adhesive alphabetical and
numerical labels available from
the electrical department of your
home center. Cover the label with
clear tape, or best of all, wrap it
Remove the number of knockouts you think you'll need for Label each of the cables and pull them to the outlet location.
with transparent heat-shrink
your cable runs. Insert plastic bushings to protect the cable By "bundling" multiple cables as shown, you can pull them
tubing. When pulling cable
jackets as they are pulled into the panel. If surface mounting all through at once. As you pull the cables, have a helper
permanently attach one label
the panel (shown), use 2-inch general purpose screws to guide them into the wall cavity to avoid kinks and abrasions.
about 4 inches from the end to
fasten it to framing members. If you choose to set the panel
leave room for stripping. Stick the
into the wall, cut the opening and pull the cable bundles into
label for the other end of the
the panel before installing it.
cable to the box or spool and
apply it after the cable has been
pulled. Pull enough cable so there
is adequate extra length at both
ends; 2 feet at a network panel
and 12 inches at a box.
Remove the fish tape and install the bracket. Strip about 2 Separate the four pairs of wires. Using the "B " color code
inches of the jacket from the cable. A cable stripper made to (technically known as T568B wiring), punch the wires into
handle CAT 5e cable (shown) does the best job. place. Make sure the wires stay wound to within \ inch of
their punch-down connection.
WIRING 1-2-3 187

Use a pair of wire nippers to trim the wires even with sides of the connector. Add an F-connector (see pages 184-185) to the coaxial cable and attach the
Check that the cable jacket extends into the connector. Place the cover over the cable to the back of the jack. Clip the jacks in the mounting plate and attach the
connections and press it in place. mounting plate to the wall.
Install the telephone and video module. Locate this and each module so cables Follow manufacturer's directions for attaching the wires of the incoming
can be attached without crowding. Most panels come with prepunched holes for telephone line. Strip off 3 inches of the outer jacket and match the wires to the
mounting modules with push pins. Some panels are backed with plywood to color coding of the connector strip marked "From Demarcation." Use the plastic
which modules can be fastened with screws. punch-down tool provided with the module to attach the wires.
188 WIRING 1-2-3

Following manufacturer's instructions punch in wires Attach the Ethernet hub. Follow manufacturer's Fasten in place the video amplifier module. Hook up
from voice, fax, modem, and computer cables to the instructions for installing the patch cords between the coaxial line from the cable source. Use a coaxial
voice and data module. Strip away 3 inches of the hub and the data module to link the incoming patch cord to link the amplifier to the video splitter.
jacket, matching the color code on the connector line from the modem and the outgoing lines to
strip, and punch each wire in. other computers in the network.
HOME NETWORKING
SECURE THE CABLES ATTACH THE COVER

SPUTTER Connections will be protected and the panel easier After giving the connections a final check
Connect your video cables to the video splitter. Plug to work in if you tidy up the cables. Use Velcro wire and testing the system, install the cover on the
the power adapters into the video amplifier and wraps; that way you can readily remove them network panel using the fasteners provided by
Ethernet hub and run the adapter power cords to a should you choose to pull in additional cables. the manufacturer.
nearby 120-volt receptacle. Secure the cables to the wall near the box with
bundle clips.
WIRING 1-2-3 189

ADDING A NEW CIRCUIT
i WIRING A KITCHEN
INSTALLING A SUBPANEL WIRING A BEDROOM
WIRING A BATHROOM
m WIRING A LAUNDRY ROOM
ELECTRIC BASEBOARD HEATERS

190 WIRING 1-2-3
Major projects
he installations described in this chapter involve adding and need 200 amps-you need a new service panel. You also may need
a new circuits. Once you have learned how electricity
works and how to calculate loads, and have successfully
completed several electrical installations, you are ready for the serious
to have the utility company change the wires that enter your home. See
page 194 for more information.
business of installing new circuits. However, proceed with caution, and W h a t's in v o lv e d
never begin any project that involves running cable without first consulting An electrician or the utility company must first disconnect the power
a building inspector. coming to the house—often by cutting live wires near the service
Your local building department may not allow unlicensed entrance. The electrician can then provide temporary electrical service
homeowners to run new circuits, install panels or subpanels, or wire entire by tapping the live wires. Obviously, all this is too dangerous for
rooms. If you hire out the work, use this chapter to understand what is a homeowner.
involved and how to judge the quality of the work being done. If your service amperage needs to be increased, the utility company
Before attempting any of the projects in this chapter, be sure you may need to install thicker wires. If you have very old electrical service
have a thorough understanding of the wiring principles presented with only two wires, the utility company must run three wires to
in Chapter 1. your home.
Replacing the service panel is primarily a matter of managing a tangle
R e p la c in g a service p a n e l of wires. All the wires running to the panel must be disconnected, tagged,
Although homeowners sometimes install new service panels themselves, and pulled out of the panel. Then the panel must be removed and another
many building departments insist that the job be done only by one mounted. It's important to position the new panel so that all the wires
licensed and bonded electricians. Because the job is complex and can reach the breakers and bus bars. When the wires are attached, power
potentially dangerous, tackle it only if you have an excellent source of can be reconnected.
professional advice.
It's a tangle
W h e n to in s ta ll a n e w p a n e l
Sorting out the incoming circuits and hooking them up
If your service panel is an old-fashioned fuse box, you may want to properly is a job best left to the pros. It's not a highly technical
job, but it does require clear thinking and the skills that come
update it by installing a breaker panel. However, if your circuits rarely blow
MAJOR PROJECTS
with practice. Hire a professional electrician to do this.
fuses, the box is not damaged, and you do not plan to add new circuits,
there is no compelling reason to upgrade it.
If you need to add new circuits and the service panel cannot accept
additional breakers, the easiest solution is to add a subpanel (pages
194-195). A professional electrician-who is accustomed to working with
live electricity and sorting out tangles of wires-may prefer to replace the
old service panel with a larger one.
If your existing electrical service is insufficient-for example, if you
have 60-amp service and need 100 amps or if you have 100-amp service
WIRING 1-2-3 191

Adding a new circuit
he physical work of installing a new electrical
SKILLS: Understanding circuits,

stripping and splicing wire
PROJECT: Hooking up a new circuit
after cable has been run
a circuit is simple and calls for no special skills.
Most of the work is completed outside the

service panel. To get a breaker that will fit in your panel, jot
down the brand and model number, or bring a sample
breaker to the store.
0 TIM E TO COMPLETE First, determine whether your service panel can
accommodate a new breaker, and then plan a circuit that will
EXPERIENCED: 'fi hr. not be overloaded (pages 112-113). Install the new boxes.
HANDY: 1 hr.
Run cable from the boxes back to the service panel (pages
NOVICE: 2 hrs.
128-131). (Electricians call this practice a "home run.") Hook
up the devices and fixtures. Now you're ready to energize the
new circuit by installing a new breaker and connecting the
TOOLS: Hammer, screwdriver, wires to it.
lineman's pliers, wire strippers
MATERIALS: Cable and clamp, new
circuit breaker
Work during the daytime and have a reliable flashlight on
hand. Turn off the main circuit breaker. All the wires and
circuit breakers in the panel are now de-energized except for
the thick wires that come from the outside and connect to
the main breaker. Do not touch the thick wires.
) > C LOSER LO O K
X
0 SAFETY ALERT
FIRE PROTECTION
Some codes now require the use
of arc fault circuit interrupters
(AFCI) for bedroom circuits. AFCIs
provide greater fire protection
than a regular breaker. Regular
breakers trip for overloads and
MAJOR PROJECTS
short circuits. AFCIs offer

protection when arcing occurs
because of frayed and overheated Single-pole
cords, and impaired wire
BREAKER OPTIONS
insulation. See page 76 for more
If the service panel has room, install full-size, many, they will require you to put in a new panel
information.
single-pole breakers. If you're out of space, see if or a subpanel (pages 194-195). You'll need
your panel can accommodate half-size or "skinny" double-pole breakers for 240-volt circuits. A quad
breakers, or tandem breakers. In some panels breaker supplies one 240-volt circuit and usually
these breakers only fit in slots near the bottom. two 15-amp 120-volt circuits in the same space of
Your building department limits the number of a double pole breaker.
breakers that can be installed. If you add too
192 WIRING 1-2-3

CLAMP THE CABLE
Remove the service panel cover (page 46). To Determine how far the wires must travel to reach AND GROUND WIRES
remove a knockout slug from the side of the service the breaker and the neutral bus bar. To avoid tangles Run the neutral wire toward an open terminal in the
panel, first tap it with a hammer and screwdriver, plan a path around the box perimeter. Strip about a neutral bus bar, bending the wire carefully so it will
then twist it off with pliers. Install a cable clamp. foot more sheathing than you think you need. easily fit behind the panel cover. Cut the wire to
Also remove a knockout tab from the panel cover. Thread the wires through the clamp and secure the length and strip off about \ inch of insulation. Poke
cable. Don't overtighten. the end into the terminal and tighten the setscrew.
Connect the ground wire to the ground bar (or
neutral bar if there is no ground bar).
MAJOR PROJECTS
INSTALLING DOUBLE-POLE BREAKERS

Run the hot wire, bending it carefully so it will easily Slip one side of the breaker under a tab to the right Shut off the power. Wire a 240/120-volt circuit with
fit behind the panel cover. Cut the wire to length. or left of the hot bus bar. Push the other side onto the black and red wires connected to the breaker
Strip off \ inch of insulation. Poke the wire into the the bus bar until the new breaker is flush with the terminals. Connect the white wire to the neutral bus
new breaker terminal. If bare wire is visible, remove other breakers. (Some brands of breakers may bar. Wire split circuits the same way (page 144). To
the wire, snip it a little shorter, and reinsert it. require a slightly different installation method. Check wire a straight 240-volt circuit (page 145), connect
Tighten the setscrew. the instructions.) Restore power and test. the two hot wires to the breaker and the ground
wire to the ground bar (or neutral bar if there is no
ground bar).
WIRING 1-2-3 193

Installing a subpanel
n experienced homeowner can tackle a G e ttin g re a d y
SKILLS: Attaching with screws,

running cable, stripping and splicing
wires
PROJECT: Installing a subpanel with
a subpanel, but hire a pro if a new service
panel is needed.
W h e n to a d d a s u b p a n e l
Install a subpanel to handle new circuits if the existing
Purchase a subpanel. Unlike some main service panels, it
has separate bus bars for neutral and ground wires. Figuring
the size of the subpanel, feeder cable, and feeder breaker
can be complicated, so consult an electrician or your
building department.
several new circuits after the circuit service panel does not have open breaker slots and you In most cases, to add up to six new circuits with a total of
cable has been run cannot use half-size breakers (page 192). 6,000 watts or less (pages 112-113), you'll need a 30-amp,
A subpanel doesn't add to the total amount of power 240-volt subpanel. Open two spaces in the main panel and
entering the home. If you have 100-amp service and the install a 30-amp double-pole feeder breaker. Run 10/3
new circuits you are installing will require more than that feeder cable between the main panel and the subpanel. Or
EXPERIENCED: 3 hrs.
(see pages 112-113 for how to add up your requirements), install a 40-amp subpanel and feeder breaker, and use #8
HANDY: 5 hrs.
call an electrician. Electricians working with the utility wire. Once your plan is approved, you may receive a permit
NOVICE: 8 hrs.
company can bring 200-amp service to your service head to do the work.
and can install a new service panel.
TOOLS: Drill, hammer, screwdriver,

wire strippers, lineman's pliers
MATERIALS: Subpanel, screws, cable
with clamps, staples
MAJOR PROJECTS
Position the subpanel for easy access but out of reach of Ask the building department what kind of feeder cable or
small children. Anchor it firmly by driving screws into studs. conduit to use. Punch out the slug from a knockout. Install a
On a masonry wall drill holes and drive masonry screws. cable clamp in the hole. Strip plenty of sheathing so that the
Remove the brass screw in the neutral bus bar when using wires can run around the perimeter of the subpanel. Clamp
the box as a subpanel. the cable to the box.
194 WIRING 1-2-3

Main
SUBPANEL
MAKE ROOM FOR THE FEEDER
BREAKER IN THE MAIN PANEL
a CLAMP THE CABLE TO THE
MAIN PANEL
Carefully bend the feeder wires so they run around Shut off the main breaker in the main service Run the feeder cable to the service panel. Strip
the perimeter of the subpanel. Run the white wire panel. If you do not have two open slots for the plenty of sheathing, punch out a knockout slug, and
to the main terminal on the neutral bar and run the feeder breaker, replace two full-size 15-amp clamp the cable.
ground wire to the ground bar. Run the red and breakers with one quad breaker using the double
black wires to each of the main terminals on the hot pole breaker to feed the subpanel. Attach the two
bars. Snip each wire to length and strip off \ inch of circuits that used the replaced breakers to the two
insulation. Poke the wires into the terminals and single pole breakers in the quad breaker.
tighten the setscrews.
MAJOR PROJECTS
Ground bus b
CONNECT THE WIRES TO THE WIRE NEW BREAKERS TO

NEUTRAL WIRES AT THE MAIN PANEL FEEDER BREAKER AT THE MAIN PANEL THE SUBPANEL
Bend the ground wire and the neutral wire around Cut the red and black wires to length. Strip \ inch of Run cable for new circuits into the subpanel. Connect
the perimeter of the service panel to open terminals insulation from each and connect them to the two the wires to new circuit breakers as you would in a
on the neutral bar, and snip them to length. Strip \ setscrew terminals of a double-pole feeder breaker. main service panel (pages 192-193), but connect
inch of insulation from the neutral wire. Poke the Snap the feeder breaker into place. Turn off the the neutral and ground wires to separate bus bars.
wires into the terminals and tighten the setscrews. feeder breaker and turn on the main breaker. Turn on the feeder breaker in the main panel to
energize the subpanel.
WIRING 1-2-3 195

Wiring a bathroom
athrooms are usually small, with only a few Codes usually require a vent fan. Usually a vent fan
electrical fixtures and devices. Because they are supplies light as well as ventilation. Unless the fan is very
damp places, specific code requirements apply. powerful or has a heating unit, a vent fan can share a circuit
You'll need at least two circuits-one for the lights and one with other bathroom lights.
for the receptacles. All overhead lights must be approved for moist rooms.
A bathroom must have at least one ground fault circuit Install lights over the sink, in the main area, and over the
interrupter (GFCI) receptacle on a 15-amp circuit. The tub/shower. Canadian codes require all bathroom outlets to
receptacle must not be above the sink, but within 12 inches be GFCI protected. Check your local codes specifying types of
of it. If the sink has two bowls, place a single receptacle lights and installation of them in bathrooms, especially those
between the bowls or put one receptacle on each side of the lights over tubs and showers.
sink. Some codes allow bathroom receptacles to share a
circuit with another receptacle elsewhere in the house.
BAcrmoohA wiftiNi#
MAJOR PROJECTS
A TYPICAL BATHROOM
Only one receptacle is usually needed in a bathroom. Here a single GFCI is If you install a fan/light with a heating unit, it may pull as much as 1,500
on its own 20-amp circuit. One 15-amp circuit supplies waterproof can watts and will require a separate 20-amp circuit depending on your local
lights over the tub/shower, the lights beside the mirror, and the fan/light. codes. Switches are conveniently positioned beside the door.
196 WIRING 1-2-3

Wiring a kitchen
kitchen is the room that has the most electrical devices and and can be safely plugged into any small-appliance receptacle.
a fixtures. It's not unusual to have eight or more circuits in a

large kitchen, an organizational challenge. Listed below are
A refrigerator receptacle needs its own 15-amp circuit. Wire a split
and switched receptacle (pages 143-144) for the garbage disposer,
only a few considerations. If you've taken on creating your own wiring and place the switch on the wall above the countertop or on a base
diagram always have it reviewed by your local electrical regulatory
authority to confirm that it meets your local codes.
cabinet. This receptacle has an always-hot outlet that can be used for
another appliance.
■ Receptacles: Position small-appliance receptacles over the counter no ■ Appliances: A dishwasher is hardwired, meaning you run cable directly
more than 4 feet apart and a couple of inches above the countertop into it. Hardwire a range hood as well (pages 164-166). An electric
backsplash. One reason kitchens have many receptacles is to avoid range needs a 240/120-volt receptacle; however, a gas range needs
tangles of cords for small appliances. Plan the placement of the toaster, only a 120-volt receptacle.
mixer, and other appliances before wiring a kitchen. Islands and ■ Lights: A kitchen with many lights might need more than one 15-amp
peninsulas also need appliance receptacles, which can be mounted on circuit; add up the kitchen's total wattage to find out. Position switches
the sides of cabinets. Older microwaves are heavy users of electricity. for maximum convenience. A large kitchen may need three-way
Many kitchens have a dedicated 20-amp circuit supplying the switches. Codes in some areas require at least one fluorescent fixture
microwave receptacle. But most new microwaves use far less power for ambient lighting.
MAJOR PROJECTS
A MODEST-SIZE KITCHEN
A 15-amp lighting circuit supplies a single ceiling fan/light, pendent lights, protected. If they're split (page 144), as required in some areas, none
and recessed can lights; many lights are controlled by 3-way switches. The could use a GFCI receptacle. The electric range has its own 50-amp, 240-
dishwasher and disposer share a circuit; the microwave and refrigerator volt circuit. (For a larger kitchen, see pages 110-111.)
each have their own circuit. Receptacles next to the sink are GFCI
WIRING 1-2-3 197

Wiring a kitchen (continued)
WIRING A DISHWASHER WIRING A GARBAGE DISPOSER

Run two-wire cable into the space, leaving plenty of slack. Slide in the Install a receptacle box in the wall under the sink and a switch box in an easy-to-
dishwasher and connect the plumbing. Remove the electrical cover and clamp reach place above the countertop. Wire for a split and switched receptacle (pages
the cable to the dishwasher electrical box. Splice white to white, black to black, 143-144). Remove the electrical cover from the disposer, strip the ends of an
and connect the ground. Fold back the wires and snap on the cover. appliance cord, and wire the cord to the disposer. After completing plumbing
connections, plug the disposer into the switched outlet.
ADDING SMALL-APPLIANCE RECEPTACLES (GFCI

TO STANDARD RECEPTACLES)
Depending on your local inspector, you may need to add GFCI
protection with a GFCI breaker for receptacles next to kitchen
sinks. Some codes allow you to protect a circuit with one GFCI
receptacle at the start of the circuit. A GFCI installed at the
first box in the run will protect the standard receptacles that
follow it as long as the power and neutral wires run
"through" the GFCI. Run 12/2 cable from a single-pole 20-
amp breaker into the first receptacle box and then on to the
other boxes, and install the receptacles as shown. Keep in
mind that if local codes require split receptacles, you can't
install GFCIs. You may also be limited to how many
MAJOR PROJECTS
receptacles you can have on a circuit.
ADDING SMALL-APPLIANCE GFCI RECEPTACLES

If you can, run separate power and neutral wires for
alternating circuits. If you have only 12/3 cable, use the
pigtails and GFCIs at each outlet as shown so that you don't
have to run new cable. Here the receptacles are wired from a
double-pole breaker in an alternating pattern (page 144),
with every other receptacle on the red wire and the others
on the black wire. The white wire connects to all the
receptacles. This arrangement allows you to install GFCIs.
Keep in mind that if local codes require split receptacles, you
can't install GFCIs. Your local codes may also limit the number
of receptacles you can have on a circuit for appliances.
198 WIRING 1-2-3

Wiring a bedroom
ost bedrooms have either an overhead switched light or one Avoid placing a receptacle directly below a window: It may get
switched receptacle, plus a receptacle or two on each wall. wet if the window is open during a rainstorm. If you use a window
You can go beyond the basic necessities and supply your air-conditioner, install a receptacle near the window. An average
bedroom with electrical service to outfit a small office or to add a few window unit does not pull heavy amperage, so you can use a 15-
creature comforts. NOTE: AFCIs (Arc Fault circuit Interrupters, page 76) amp receptacle but it must have its own circuit. A heavy-duty
have been required since January 2002 to be installed for each air-conditioner may need a dedicated 20-amp receptacle.
bedroom receptacle circuit. ■ Lights: To control an overhead fan/light, run three-wire cable from the
■ Receptacles: Codes typically allow bedroom receptacles to be up to ceiling box to the switch box and install a fan/light switch (page 95).
12 feet apart. If you cut this distance in half, you'll improve receptacle Consider installing three-way switches at the door and by the bed for
accessibility and give yourself more options for arranging bedroom convenience. Or install a remote-control switch (page 95). Place a
furniture. To provide a computer with maximum protection against reading lamp at both sides of the bed, each with its own switch.
power surges, wire an isolated-ground receptacle. For comfortable TV
viewing while in bed, install a wall bracket for a TV with a nearby
receptacle, about 6\ feet above the floor.
MAJOR PROJECTS
A MULTIUSE BEDROOM
Separate reading lights on each side of the bed each have conveniently a wall switch and a remote control. (Wire the fan and light separately,
placed switches. A receptacle with its own dedicated circuit guards a using the three-way wiring described on pages 148-150.) A receptacle
computer against damage caused by power surges (page 82). A placed higher than usual near the window accommodates a window
receptacle 6 feet from the floor supplies power to a wall-mounted TV and air-conditioner.
VCR, and eliminates unsightly dangling cords. The fan/light is controlled by
WIRING 1-2-3 199

Wiring a laundry room
n a laundry room receptacles that feed the Because these machines vibrate, fasten the wiring
O washing machine, gas dryer, and other

appliances must be on 20-amp circuits that are
fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protected.

If the dryer is electric, you also will need a 30-amp,
securely. Local codes may allow NM or armored cable, but
conduit is more secure. See pages 122-124 for conduit
not used by any other room. The receptacles must be installation
ground instructions.
Laundry room lights don't need their own circuits. But
you shouldn't put them on circuits other than receptacle
120/240-volt receptacle. Use 10-gauge wire and connect the circuits so you won't be without light if a faulty appliance
dryer directly to a 30-amp, 240-volt breaker or fuse (page causes a circuit overload.
145). In this example the washer is on its own circuit.
C LOSER LO O K
LIGHTING CLOSETS
AND STORAGE SPACES
The days of exposed lightbulbs on
pull-chain switches are past.
Lights in closets, attics,
crawlspaces, and other storage
areas must now be recessed or
enclosed, controlled by wall
switches, and positioned at least
18 inches away from flam m able
materials. Wherever there is
equipment that must be
serviced—such as a sump pump
or a water heater—there must be
a light controlled by a wall switch.
MAJOR PROJECTS
A HARDWORKING LAUNDRY AREA

The dryer has a dedicated 30-amp, 240-volt circuit, and the (GFCI) receptacles throughout (page 74). Fluorescent lights
washer has its own 20-amp, 120-volt circuit. Because this are on a 15-amp circuit, which they may share with lights in
area could become damp, use ground fault circuit interrupter other rooms.
200 WIRING 1-2-3

Electric baseboard heaters
n electric baseboard heater can get heat into a
Be sure that you
a
ij& PROJECT DETAILS
cold part of the house. But head for the breaker
SKILLS: Basic carpentry and wiring
skills
box first because a new heater requires a new
have room in the
circuit, and you want to make sure you have room for it. You
PROJECT: Installing an electric
baseboard heater
will need at least one empty spot on the panel. Two are
better. If there's no room for an extra circuit, find another way
breaker box for
to heat the cold spot. Code requires an electric heater to have
its own circuit, and even if it didn't, combining it with an
a new circuit
EXPERIENCED: 4 hrs.
existing circuit would overload the breakers every time the
heat came on.
before you decide
HANDY: 6 hrs.
NOVICE: 8 hrs.
You can attach an electric heater against plaster, drywall,
wallpaper, or wood paneling. If you want to attach to
to install a new
another surface, consult the manufacturer's instructions.
Use the gauge wire recommended for the amount of
heater.
TOOLS: Screwdriver, drill, drywall saw, power the heater requires. The directions here are for a 240-
utility knife, fish tape, wire strippers, volt heater, which is both the most efficient and the most
longnose pliers, stud finder common. Regardless of the amount of electricity the heater
MATERIALS: 240-volt electric heater will draw, consult the manufacturer's recommendations for
with thermostat, 1 2 /2 cable, wire installation and check with your local electrical regulatory
nuts, electrician's tape, junction box, authority to ensure your following proper safety and
cable clamps, breaker or breakers installation procedures.
MAJOR PROJECTS
IF YOU'RE USING A WALL-MOUNTED

If you're using a heater with a built-in thermostat, THERMOSTAT, THE CABLE FROM THE BREAKER Remove the knockout in the back of the heater
run 12/2 cable from the heater to the service panel. PANEL WON'T RUN DIRECTLY TO THE HEATER. by giving it a sharp blow with the blade of a
See page 129 for running cable behind a baseboard. Run the cable to where the thermostat will be and screwdriver. Put in a connector-a type of clamp
Leave about 2 extra feet of cable at the heater. Run run a second length of cable from there to the required by code to prevent the edge of the
the cable to the panel, leaving the cable long heater. Feed both through a junction box and box from accidentally shorting out the cable. Strip
enough to run around the perimeter to the breaker install it, marking the wires so that you know about 12 inches of sheathing. Fish it through the
and the bus bars. which is which. connector and tighten the clamp around the end
of the outer insulation.
WIRING 1-2-3 201

Electric baseboard heaters (continued)
OPTION A: IF YOU'RE USING A BUILT-IN OPTION B: IF YOU ARE USING A WALL-

Line up the holes in the back of the heater with the THERMOSTAT MOUNTED THERMOSTAT
studs. Push any extra cable inside the wall, then Usually the incoming black and white supply wires Use a double-pole, 240-volt thermostat designed for
screw the heater in place as directed by the connect to two red wires on the thermostat. The two baseboard heaters; a standard low-voltage
manufacturer. (Accessing the screw holes black wires on the thermostat connect to the two thermostat will burn up. The double-pole switch in
sometimes involves removing a part or two.) black heater wires that were twisted together. On a the thermostat shuts off power to both 120-volt
240-volt circuit like the one shown here, the white lines that make up the 240 volts going to the heater.
wire is hot, and code requires you to mark it with a Use a larger capacity box to hold the bigger
piece of black tape as a reminder. thermostat. Wire the thermostat as directed by the
manufacturers instructions. Connect the grounds.
MAJOR PROJECTS
The bare wire coming into the heater is connected to See pages 192-193 for instructions on installing a A 240-volt circuit requires a double pole breaker.
a green ground screw in the heater. If you have new breaker. Punch out a new knockout in the side Screw the black wire into one of the breakers; screw
cable that has white and black wires as opposed to of the service panel, and install a cable clamp. Run the white wire into the other and mark it with a
red and black, mark the white wire with black tape the ground wire to the ground bar (or the neutral piece of black tape. To install a breaker, put the tab
to show anyone working on it in the future that the bar if there is no ground bar). Attach the black and on one end of the breakers under the notch for it.
wire is hot. white wires to the breakers, or to the two terminals Bring the other end down onto the other tab and
of a double breaker. Wrap black tape around the press until it snaps into place. Screw the bare ground
insulation of the white wire to show that it's hot. wire to the ground bus bar. Restore power and test.
202 WIRING 1-2-3

Electrical repairs
FIXING LAMP SOCKETS
REPLACING LAMP SWITCHES
REWIRING LAMPS
REPAIRING PENDENT FIXTURES
REPLACING PLUGS AND SWITCHES
REPAIRING FLUORESCENTS
REPAIRING WIRES IN BOXES
TROUBLESHOOTING A DOOR CHIME
TROUBLESHOOTING A THERMOSTAT
hen electrical devices and fixtures no longer work, often the logical
H i I J S I s°lution >s t0 replace rather than repair them. Switches, receptacles,
M l lamps, and overhead lights may not cost enough to warrant the time
it takes to diagnose and repair them.
Some repairs, however, take only minutes. You may be able to get your lamp to
work again just by pulling up the tab on the light socket (see page 204). If you have a
valuable antique lamp or overhead light-a treasured part of your home-you certainly
have a vested interest in getting it back into working order.
WIRING 1-2-3 203

Fixing lamp sockets
SKILLS: Testing for continuity,
attaching wires to terminals
PROJECT: Testing and replacing a
table lamp socket
HANDY: 30 min.
NOVICE: 1 hr.
TOOLS: Screwdriver and a continuity

tester or multitester Unplug the lamp and remove the bulb. If the contact tab is Look for the word PRESS on the socket shell. Push there with
MATERIALS: New socket if needed, corroded or rusty, scrape it with a screwdriver. If the tab lies your thumb as you squeeze the shell and wiggle it up and
electrician's tape flat, it may not be making solid contact with the base of the out. If there is a cardboard sleeve, remove it too. Loosen the
bulb. Gently pry up the tab about \ inch and retest. If two terminal screws and pull out the socket.
the lamp still doesn't work, go to the next step.
Connect the ridged (neutral) wire to the silver terminal and the
smooth (hot) wire to the brass terminal.
f a lamp doesn't work,
eliminate the obvious
causes first. Make sure
the lamp is plugged in. Make sure
the bulb is OK. A burned-out bulb
usually makes a tinkling sound
14 when you shake it. Screw in a
fresh bulb if necessary.
Check that the receptacle's
circuit hasn't blown a fuse or
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
popped a breaker. If the lamp still

doesn't work, test by plugging in a
lamp that you know is in working
order. If it lights up you've isolated
the problem to the lamp itself. TEST THE SOCKET AN D SWITCH REPLACE THE SOCKET
Before replacing the cord or switch, Test the socket with a continuity tester (shown) or a You may need to loosen a small setscrew in order to unscrew
take a look at the socket. multitester (pages 30-31). Touch one probe to the neutral the old socket base. Install the new base, threading the cord
(silver) screw and the other to the threaded metal of the carefully so you don't nick the insulation. Tie the wires with
socket. If the tester bulb doesn't light, replace the socket. If an underwriters knot as shown. Twist the strands together
the socket has a switch, touch the clips to the brass terminal with your fingers, and form a partial loop. Wrap each wire
and to the contact tab. If the switch is defective, replace it. If clockwise around a terminal, and tighten its terminal screw.
it is not test the cord and plug (page 206-207). Slip on the cardboard sleeve, and snap down the socket shell
into position.
204 WIRING 1-2-3

Replacing lamp switches
SKILLS: Testing for power, splicing
wires
PROJECT: Replacing and wiring a
lamp or fixture switch
0 TIME TO COMPLETE
HANDY: 30 min.
NOVICE: 45 min.
TOOLS: Voltage tester, wire strippers, TEST THE SWITCH

pliers Unplug the lamp. Remove the bottom of the lamp to access Unscrew the switch retaining nut-you may need to use
MATERIALS: New switch, electrician's the wiring. Remove one of the wire nuts that connects a lead pliers. Unravel the wires, then pull out the switch. If the wires
tape, wire nuts from the switch to the lamp wires. Clip one probe of a on the lamp are damaged, snip off the stripped portion and
continuity tester to the switch lead and the other to the lamp restrip the insulation. Insert the switch into the hole, and
wires. Try the switch several times. If the continuity detector tightly screw in the retaining nut. Splice the switch leads to
doesn't light, the switch is defective. the lamp, and twist on the wire nuts.
toggle, pull-chain, or
Q twist switch is not an

integral part of the
lamp or the fixture on which it's
mounted. It's an inexpensive
switch that can be easily
WORK SMARTER
WIRING A THREE-LEVEL SWITCH
If a fixture-mounted switch powers a light or fan at more than
one level, the wiring is more complicated. If the switch has more
replaced-and may need to be than two leads, carefully tag the lamp or fixture wires with
replaced yearly, if heavily used. pieces of marked tape so you know which wire goes where
There's one universal hole when you install the replacement. Take the old switch with
size, so you can interchange you to the hardware store or home center to buy an exact
14
twist switches with toggles or replacement.
pull-chains.
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
Test a switch like this (common on ceiling lights and fans) in

the same way as a toggle or twist switch. It mounts with a
retaining nut. Some porcelain ceiling fixtures have built-in
switches; these can't be repaired.
WIRING 1-2-3 205

Rewiring lamps
SKILLS: Stripping wire, testing for
continuity
PROJECT: Rewiring a lamp
0 TIME TO COMPLETE
HANDY: 30 min.
NOVICE: 1 hr.
TOOLS: Multitester or continuity

tester, wire strippers, pliers,
screwdriver, utility knife With the socket removed (page 204), touch the probes of a LAMP, HOOK THE NEW CORD TO THE OLD
MATERIALS: New lamp cord, continuity tester or multitester (pages 30-31) to the end of Cut the old cord about 8 inches past the lamp base. Strip the
electrician's tape, wire nuts the ridged (neutral) wire and the wide prong of the plug. ends of the old and new cords. Twist all the strands clockwise
Then touch the probes to the smooth (hot) wire and the with your fingers so that no strands are loose. Bend the old
narrow prong. If either test fails to show continuity, replace wires and the new wires. Hook them together as shown.
the cord and plug. If the prongs are the same size, test each Wrap the joint tightly with electrician's tape.
wire with both prongs. The meter should show continuity on
one prong only.
iring lamps is easy

0 SAFETY ALERT
work. Electricity travels
up through the lamp EXTRACTING A BROKEN BULB
body through a cord until it reaches If a bulb is broken and stuck in the socket, don't try to unscrew
the socket. If the tests show that it by hand. Unplug the lamp. Press a potato onto the broken
the socket works OK (page 204), glass and then twist. Or insert the end of a wooden broom
the problem is probably with the handle into the middle of the socket and twist.
cord. Don't repair a section of a
cord: Cord splices never look good
and they unravel easily. Install a
new replacement lamp cord,
which has a molded plug.
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
This step is easier with a helper. While pulling up on the old

cord at the top of the lamp, feed the new cord into the hole
at the base. If the tape gets stuck, pull the cord out and wrap
the tape more tightly. Keep pulling until the new cord
emerges from the top. Unwrap the tape. Tie an underwriters
knot and connect the new cord to the socket (page 204).
206 WIRING 1-2-3

Repairing a two-socket lamp
REMOVE THE COVER AND TEST switch on, use a multitester or continuity tester ■ ■ REWIRE THE LAMP
THE LAMP to check for continuity (pages 30-31). If only Replace one cord at a time. For the sockets cut and strip
If a lamp has two or more sockets and only one one socket fails to light, the wire between the pieces of cord to the length of the old pieces. Connect the
doesn't operate, test and replace the defective splice and the socket is probably the culprit. If ridged (neutral) wire to the silver socket terminal and the
one as you would a one-socket lamp (page all the sockets fail to work, then the cord smooth (hot) wire to the brass terminal. When splicing
204). Remove the cover plate and make sure between the plug and the splice is bad. always connect ridged wire to ridged and smooth to smooth.
the wire connections are tight. With the lamp
Dividing and stripping lamp cord
14
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
A LAMP REWIRE KIT
Some lamps have special
components-such as washers or
plastic stoppers. Replace them
Separate part of a lamp cord into two wires before making Pull the cord-not the knife—to separate the wires. Once you while you are rewiring. A lamp
connections. Stick the tip of a knife blade into the little valley have made this cut, pull the wires farther apart if needed. rewire kit contains the cord with
between the two cords, and push down until it jabs firmly Use wire strippers to remove insulation. Work carefully so plug and the little parts unique to
into the work surface below. that you don't pull off more than a couple of wire strands that kind of lamp. The kit shown is
with the insulation. for a bottle-type lamp.
WIRING 1-2-3 207

Repairing pendent fixtures
egular flush-mounted ceiling fixtures rarely need
Q
PROJECT DETAILS
repair, and when they do, the wiring is
SKILLS: Testing for continuity, tracing straightforward. Pendent fixtures or chandeliers,
and replacing wires, stripping and however, often have a tangle of wires running through
splicing wires narrow tubes. When old insulation cracks, pendent lights start
PROJECT: Rewiring a medium-size to fail and sparks may fly.
chandelier If one wire has brittle insulation, replace all the wires;
the others are just as old.
0 TIM E TO COMPLETE If only one light malfunctions, turn off the switch and test
its socket. Replace the socket if it is defective (page 204).
EXPERIENCED: 2 hrs.
To get ready, shut off power to the circuit at the service
HANDY: 4 hrs.
panel. Have a helper hold the fixture, or bend the ends of a
NOVICE: 5 hrs.
coat hanger to support it. Loosen the screws holding the
canopy in place.
0 STUFF YOU'LL NEED
TOOLS: Voltage tester, continuity

tester, wire strippers, longnose pliers, Slide down the canopy. Pull out and separate the wires.
side-cutting pliers, screwdriver Carefully remove the wire nuts. Test for the presence of
MATERIALS: Lamp core, electrician's power in the box (pages 30-31). If any wires are live, shut
tape, wire nuts off the correct circuit. Disconnect the wires and take down
the fixture. Remove the cover near the bottom of the fixture
to expose the connections.
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
TEST THE SOCKET W IRES TEST THE STEM W IRES

If some of the sockets do not light, test each wire for If all the lights fail to come on, the stem wires probably need
continuity. To find out which cord goes where, tug on the cord replacing. To make sure twist the stem wires together at the
at the socket end while holding the wires at the base. base. Touch tester probes to both wires at the top of the
Unscrew the wire nuts at the base, and test both the ridged fixture. If no continuity is indicated, replace the stem wires as
(neutral) wire and the smooth wire for continuity. If you do shown on page 206. If light still fails to come on, test the
not get a positive reading for both wires, replace the cord. wires from the ceiling box as shown above.
Test and repair all malfunctioning light sockets.
208 WIRING 1-2-3

Replacing plugs and switches
Installing flat replacement plugs
SKILLS: Stripping wire, dividing cord,
attaching wire to terminals
PROJECT: Replacing one plug or
adding one cord switch
0 TIME TO COMPLETE
EXPERIENCED: 5 min.
HANDY: 15 min.
NOVICE: 30 min.
TOOLS: Wire strippers, utility knife,

screwdriver
MATERIALS: Replacement plug or
cord switch
SNAP ON THE BODY
REPLACEMENT PLUG Make sure the connections to the terminals are tight. Hold
Cut the cord near the old plug. Slide the cord through the the core with one hand and push the body onto it with the
replacement plug body. Separate and strip the cord wires other hand until the two pieces snap together.
(page 207). Twist the wire strands tightly with your fingers,
and wrap the strands clockwise around the core terminals
connecting the side of the wire with ridges to the wider
prong. Tighten the screws.
plug with loose prongs

Installing a quick-connect plug
Q or a cracked body is
dangerous and should
be replaced. If the cord and the
plug are damaged, rewire the
lamp or appliance with a one-
piece cord and plug (page 206). If
only the plug is damaged, save
yourself the chore of rewiring the
entire device by using one of the ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
replacement plugs shown here.
Note that lamp cords have
ridges on one wire. These ridges
allow you to preserve the polarity
of the existing wiring. Rewire the
new cord with the ridged side
attached to the same wire in the
lamp or appliance. With this type of plug, you do not have to divide or strip the Squeeze the prongs together so they bite down on the cord.
A cord switch (see page 210), cord. Cut off the old plug. Thread the cord through the plug While still squeezing slip the body onto the core until it snaps
which is almost as easy to install, body. Spread the prongs apart, and push the cord into the into place.
is ideal for lamps that have hard- core. Connect the ridged (neutral) wire to the wider prong.
to-reach switches. You can add a
cord switch in minutes.
WIRING 1-2-3 209

Replacing plugs and switches (continued)
Installing a grounded round plug

0 SAFETY ALERT
RATE THE WIDTH OF YOUR

APPLIANCE CORDS
Most lamp cords are a standard
thickness, but appliance cords
vary. When you buy an appliance
cord, make sure it is rated to
handle the appliance amperage
(page 49). A cord that's too thin
will dangerously overheat. To see
whether a cord needs to be
replaced, bend it at several
points. If the insulation cracks or
feels like it's about to crack,
replace the cord.
INTO THE PLUG BODY Twist the wires together with your fingers so there are no
If you are replacing an old plug, cut the old cord near the loose strands. Wrap each wire clockwise around a terminal
plug. Separate the replacement plug core and body. on the core: black wire to the brass terminal, white wire to
Use a wire stripper or a utility knife to strip 1\ inches of the silver terminal, and green wire to the round green
sheathing, being careful not to nick the insulation of the grounding terminal. Tighten the screws, snap the body onto
three wires inside. Strip about \ inch of insulation from each the core, and tighten the clamp screws to the cord to secure
of the wires. Thread the cord through the new plug body. the plug to the cable.
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
QUICK-INSTALL CORD SWITCHES

Choose the location of the switch carefully: You won't but do not strip it. Insert the wire into the switch, and install: Cut and strip the smooth (hot) wire,
be able to move it after it is installed. An inexpensive screw the two halves of the switch together. and connect the ends to terminals.
rotating switch will not last long if the switch is used A rocker switch is more solidly built and will last A toe-button switch is ideal for torchiers and
daily but is fine for occasional use. To install one, use longer. It will fit with a flat lamp cord or a round plant lights that are otherwise hard to reach. It
a utility knife to cut a 1-inch-long slit to divide the appliance cord. It takes a few minutes longer to installs like on-cord rotating and rocker switches.
cord; then snip the smooth (hot) wire,
210 WIRING 1-2-3

Repairing fluorescents
luorescent lights use less energy and last longer If the tube does not light at all:
a
PROJECT DETAILS
than incandescent lights, but they can be finicky ■ Rotate the tube to get a better connection.
SKILLS: Stripping and splicing wires to repair. The greatest challenge can be finding ■ Check the ballast for a temperature rating. Some
PROJECT: Diagnosing and repairing the right replacement parts. Starters will need replacing on
fixtures will not start in cold or hot temperatures.
a fluorescent fixture older fixtures (newer fixtures don't need them). Consider ■ Make sure the circuit is getting power. Test, then replace
replacing starters when you replace tubes. Sockets can the wall switch (pages 66-67) if necessary.
0 TIM E TO COMPLETE loosen or crack; ballasts are particularly troublesome and ■ Replace the tube, especially if it's dark at the ends or if a
expensive to replace. Save yourself time and trouble by pin is bent.
taking down the fixture to repair it on a bench. ■ Replace the socket if it is cracked or if the tube does not
HANDY: 1 hr.
seat tightly.
NOVICE: 2 hrs.
T ro u b le s h o o tin g ■ Replace the ballast or the fixture.
A flickering or partially lighted tube is the most common
problem. Take these steps to troubleshoot: If the ballast hums:
TOOLS: Wire strippers, longnose ■ Rotate the tube for a better connection. ■ Try turning off a nearby radio or heavy-use
pliers, screwdriver ■ Replace the starter. electrical appliance.
MATERIALS: Replacement parts, ■ Replace the ballast or the fixture. ■ Tighten the ballast-mounting screws.
electrician's tape, wire nuts ■ Replace the ballast.
If a tube has very dark spots at either end:
■ Replace it, even if it works. It may cause the ballast to If the ballast is oozing a thick black substance:
wear out. ■ Replace the fixture or, wearing protective
gloves, replace the ballast.
BUYER'S GUIDE
\
FIX OR REPLACE?
New fluorescent light fixtures are
fairly inexpensive and will likely
last longer than a new ballast or
starter. If the old fixture is easy to
remove and a new fixture will
easily install in the same location,
you may choose to replace rather
14
than repair the fixture.
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
KNOW YOUR FIXTURE

It takes an initial burst of high voltage to light a fluorescent rectangular object. Newer models have electronic ballasts. In a
tube. Once it's lit, the voltage is cut back because the tube rapid-start fixture (above left), the ballast performs this two-
can "coast" on very little current. The ballast, a transformer, level delivery of power. In a starter-type fixture (above), a
initially steps up the voltage and then reduces it after the tube small cylindrical starter acts as a switch, sending a greater
is lit. In older models the ballast is a bulky and heavy amount of current to the tube until it lights.
WIRING 1-2-3 2 11
Repairing fluorescents (continued)
SIGNS OF TUBE WEAR REPLACING A TUBE REPLACING A STARTER

If a tube suddenly stops lighting and is not To remove a tube hold it at each end and twist If it takes more than a few seconds for a starter-
blackened at the ends, gently rotate it while the carefully until you feel it loosen. Remove it, type fixture to light up, remove the tube and
fixture is turned on and see whether that brings being careful not to damage the tube pins or twist the starter to see whether you can seat
it back to life. Gray spots near the ends of a tube the sockets. Replace it with a tube of the same the starter more firmly. If the ends of a tube
(top) are signs of normal aging. If the ends are size and wattage. With dual lamps replace both light up but the center doesn't, replace the
black or dark gray (bottom), you should replace tubes at the same time to so the fixture emits starter. Press in the starter and twist
the tube. If a fixture has two tubes, always even light. counterclockwise to remove it. Buy a starter
replace both at the same time. with the same part number as the old one.
Push in and twist clockwise to install it.
REAL WORLD
EASY DOES IT
When installing a replacement
socket for a fixture, do not be too
aggressive when poking the
wires into the push-in terminals.
If the wires are pushed in too
hard, it may cause the insulated
part (rather than the stripped
part) of the wire to connect to the
terminal. No connection. No light.
Push until it can be felt that the
socket grabs the stripped wire.
REPLACING A SOCKET REPLACING A BALLAST
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
These crack easily, especially if you are not careful when Shut off power to the circuit supplying the light, and check
removing or installing a tube. Unscrew the bracket holding for the presence of power. Disconnect the wires if possible. If
the socket in place, or slide the socket out of the groove. If it's not possible, cut them close to the ballast. Either way tag
the socket has push-in terminals, poke the slot to release the the remaining wires so you'll remember which wire goes
wire. If the socket has attached wires, cut the wires and strip where. Unscrew the ballast and take it to a home center or
off about \ inch of insulation. Install a new socket with push- electrical supply store for a replacement. Install the new
in terminals or screw terminals. ballast in just the same way as the old one was installed. You
may prefer to replace the fixture entirely.
212 WIRING 1-2-3

Repairing wires in boxes
ou open a box in your older home and find old
SKILLS: Wrapping tape around wires

in tight spots
PROJECT: Taking measures to
safeguard several wires in a box
a wiring with insulation that is cracked and frayed.
Very likely, all the hidden wires in the house are
in equally bad shape. What can you do?
Rewiring is the safest solution. It is not too big a job if all
the wires run through conduit or Greenfield flexible conduit
(pages 122-124), but many homes are wired with cable.
0 TIME TO COMPLETE Replacing cable means making holes in walls, followed by
time-consuming, expensive patching and redecorating.
Wires wrapped tightly in cable are likely to be in better
HANDY: 30 min.
condition than wires exposed to air. Insert a plastic bushing
NOVICE: 45 min.
and tape the wires to protect the circuit until you rewire.
Better yet protect the wire with a hot-shrink sleeve (right).
While the box is open, take the following precautions as
TOOLS: Screwdriver well. A box recessed behind the wall surface poses a fire
MATERIALS: Electrician's tape, danger and is out of code. Slip in a box extender (below
BX bushings right), and add the cover plate. Debris that collects in an
electrical box, especially sawdust, poses a fire hazard; SHRINK ON NEW INSULATION
vacuum it out immediately. If a wire has cracked, brittle, or otherwise damaged
insulation, buy a small bag of plastic sleeves made to protect
wires. Shut off power to the circuit. Disconnect the
damaged wire and slip a sleeve down over it. Point a hair
dryer or heat gun at the sleeve until it shrinks, forming a
long-lasting protective coating.
O CLOSER LOOK
LEAKY WIRES
Wiring with cracked insulation can leak small amounts of
electricity. Known as a high-resistance short circuit, this power
loss won't blow a fuse or trip a breaker, but it can overheat
wires. To test for this problem, completely shut down the
house. Remove all lightbulbs, unplug all lamps and appliances,
and disconnect hardwired appliances such as electric water
heaters and whole-house fans. Turn on all the switches. Then
watch your electric meter. If it shows power usage, then you
have a high-resistance short. ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
Test circuits one by one to narrow down the source of
the leak. It may be a bad connection or damaged wire
insulation in an electrical box. If you can't find the source,
call in a professional.
EXTEND A RECESSED BOX

If a box is recessed from a wall surface, there is a danger of
fire—especially if the wall surface is wood paneling.
However, even tile edges or drywall should be covered.
Purchase a box extender sized to fit your box, and slip it on.
WIRING 1-2-3 213

Troubleshooting a door chime
doorbell or chime system is supplied with low- a If you get only one tone when the front (or only) button
SKILLS: Systematically diagnosing,
testing wattage
PROJECT: Tracking and solving a door
chime problem
Q voltage power-between 8 and 24 volts-by a
transformer. When the button is pressed, the
circuit closes and sends power to the chime or bell.
Fix in g c o m m o n p ro b le m s
is pushed, check the wiring in the chime to see that the
button is connected to the "front." On many two-button
systems, the chime is supposed to "ding dong" when the
front button is pushed, and only "ding" when the rear
button is pushed.
Because the voltage associated with doorbells and chimes is a If the chime suddenly stops working at the same time
0 TIME TO COMPLETE low, there is no need to shut off power unless you are you blow a fuse or trip a breaker, restore power to the
working on the transformer. Here's how to troubleshoot circuit supplying the transformer,
EXPERIENCED: 1 hr.
HANDY: 2 hrs.
most problems. a If the chime stops working altogether, conduct a
a If a bell or chime develops a fuzzy sound, remove the systematic investigation, moving from the simplest to the
NOVICE: 3 hrs.
chime cover and vacuum out any dust and debris and most complex repairs. First check out the button(s), then
brush off the bell or chimes. the chime, and then the transformer. If none of these
Q ) STUFF YOU'LL NEED
reveals a problem, the wiring may be damaged.
TOOLS: Screwdriver, multitester,
wire strippers
MATERIALS: Replacement for the
faulty component: button, chime,
transformer, or bell wire
| Remove the screws holding the button in place, If the button still doesn't work, loosen the
Transformer and gently pull out the button. (Make sure the terminal screws and remove the wires. Holding
wires do not slide back into the hole.) Clean each wire by its insulation, touch the bare ends
away any debris, cocoons, or corrosion, and together. If the chime sounds, the button is
tighten the terminal screws. If either wire is faulty and needs to be replaced. If you see or
broken, restrip it then reconnect it. Retest hear a tiny spark but the chime does not sound,
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
the button. the chime may be faulty (Step 3). If there is no

sound and no spark, check the transformer
Junction box j A TYPICAL TWO-BUTTON SETUP (Step 4).
The transformer—usually located in an out-of-the-way spot such
as the basement, crawlspace, or cabinet interior-sends low-
voltage power to the chime. There one wire is connected to the
chime. Another wire is spliced to two different wires, each of
which travels through a button and back to the chime. When
either button is pressed, the circuit is completed, power travels to
the chime, and the chime rings.
214 WIRING 1-2-3

TEST THE CHIME TEST THE TRANSFORMER REPLACING A TRANSFORMER
Remove the chime cover and ensure that all the Follow the bell wires and look for an exposed Purchase a transformer with the same voltage rating
wires are securely connected to the terminals. electrical box with the transformer attached. Touch as the old one. Shut off power to the circuit and
Vacuum out any dust and scrape away any corrosion the probes of a multitester to both transformer open the adjacent junction box. Label the bell wires
near the terminals. When you pull back a plunger terminals. If you get a reading of more than 2 volts and disconnect them. Disconnect the transformer
and release it, the chime should sound. If not, clean below the transformer rating, the transformer is leads inside the junction box and disconnect the
any greasy buildup that may gum up the springs. If faulty and should be replaced. transformer. Thread the new transformer leads into
the chime still does not work, touch the probes of a the junction box, fasten the transformer to the box,
multitester to the "front" and "trans" terminals, and splice the leads to the wires. Connect the bell
and to the "rear" and "trans" terminals. If power is wires, restore power, and test.
present within two volts of the chime's printed
voltage rating, then the chime is faulty and should
be replaced.
Installing wireless chimes BUYER'S GUIDE
REPLACING A CHIME
Purchase a chime with the same
voltage rating as your transformer. It
should be at least as large as the old
chime so that you don't have to paint
the wall around it. Label the wires with
pieces of tape, unscrew the terminal
screws, and remove the wires. Remove
14
INSTALLING THE CHIME ADDING A WIRELESS CHIME TO the screws holding the chime to the
Rather than going through the trouble AN EXISTING CHIME SYSTEM wall and pull it away. Thread the wires
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
of replacing defective bell wire, buy If you can't hear your door chime through the new chime and fasten the
a wireless chime system. Installation everywhere in your home, add a chime to the wall. Connect the wires to
is easy: Plug the chime into a standard wireless chime to your wired system. the terminals.
receptacle, power the button with Remove the cover from the existing
a battery, and attach the button to chime and loosen the terminal
the house. screws. Take the leads of the wireless
chime's sending unit and
insert them under the screws. Tighten
the screws. Using its double-sided
tape, stick the sending unit to the
chime housing. Plug the wireless
chime into a receptacle.
WIRING 1-2-3 215

Troubleshooting a thermostat
he round, low-voltage unit featured in most
SKILLS: Cleaning, stripping,

and connecting wires
PROJECT: Inspecting and replacing
a low-voltage thermostat
a of these pictures is the most common type of
thermostat in use. Yours may be rectangular, but
its functions are the same.
If your furnace or air-conditioner fails to operate, check
the thermostat for mechanical problems. The cover may be
jammed in too far, disrupting the mechanism. A wire may
have broken or come loose. Or the parts may be covered
with dust, inhibiting electrical contact.
EXPERIENCED: 1 hrs.
If cleaning and adjusting do not solve the problem,
HANDY: 3 hrs.
replacing a thermostat is an easy job. Consider installing a
NOVICE: 5 hrs.
programmable unit for more control options. Remember that
a thermostat contains mercury, so dispose of it properly.
TOOLS: Small brush, screwdriver, wire

strippers
MATERIALS: Short length of wire,
CHECKING A LINE-VOLTAGE THERMOSTAT
replacement thermostat, scrap of
If your thermostat uses household current, always shut
bond paper
off power to the circuit before pulling it out. If it fails,
disconnect it and take it to a dealer for service
or replacement.
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
REVIEWING THE ANATOMY OF A LOW-VOLTAGE

THERMOSTAT
Thin wires come from a transformer and connect to the
thermostat base. You'll probably find one wire for the SEAL OFF DRAFTS
transformer, one for heat, one for air-conditioning, and one Even if your thermostat is on an interior wall, air coming through
for a fan. (A heat pump uses six or more wires and has a a hole behind it may throw its temperature readings out of
special thermostat. Contact a dealer for repairs.) To protect whack, resulting in erratic heating. Remove the thermostat base
circuitry shut off power before you start to work. from the wall and fill the hole with insulation or caulk.
216 WIRING 1-2-3

CLEANING THE CONTACTS WITH A BRUSH CLEANING THE SWITCH CONTACTS CONDUCTING A HOT-WIRE TEST
Pull off the outer cover and use a soft, clean, dry Remove the screws holding the thermostat body If heat does not come on, test to see if power is
brush to remove dust from the bimetal coil. Turn the and pull out the body. Gently pull back on the fan getting to the thermostat. Cut a short length of wire
dial to get at all the nooks and crannies. control lever, slip a piece of white bond paper and strip both ends. Holding only the insulated
behind it, and slide the paper back and forth to portion, touch the bare ends to the terminals
clean the contact behind it. Do the same for the marked W and R. If the heating system starts to run,
mode control lever, if there is one. replace the thermostat. If nothing happens,
troubleshoot or replace the transformer (page 215).
ELECTRICAL REPAIRS
LEVELING A THERMOSTAT REPLACING A LOW-VOLTAGE THERMOSTAT INVESTING IN A PROGRAMMABLE

If the temperature is always warmer or cooler than Loosen the terminal screws and pull out the wires. THERMOSTAT
the thermostat setting, the thermostat may be out Remove the mounting screws and pull out the plate. Spend a little more and save money in the long run
of level. Hold a level or a weighted string in front of Clip the wires so they cannot slide back through the with a thermostat that adjusts heating or
the thermostat to see if the two alignment marks hole. Thread the wires through the new thermostat cooling several times a day.
line up. If not, remove the mounting screws, realign and hook the wires to the terminals. Check for
the thermostat, and drive new screws. leveling and attach the base to the wall with screws.
WIRING 1-2-3 217

GLOSSARY
Amp. A measurement of the amount of electrical Conductor. A wire or anything else that carries Fuse. A safety device designed to stop electrical
current in a circuit at any moment. 5ee also Volt electricity. flow if a circuit shorts or is overloaded. Like a circuit
and Watt. breaker, a fuse protects against fire from
Conduit. Rigid (metal or PVC) or flexible plastic overheated wiring.
Antioxidant. A paste applied to aluminum wires to tubing through which wires are run.
inhibit corrosion and maintain safe connections. Ganging. Assembling two or more electrical
Continuity tester. An instrument that tells whether components into a single unit. Boxes, switches,
Armored cable. Two or more insulated wires a device is capable of carrying electricity. and receptacles are often ganged.
wrapped in a protective metal sheathing.
Dimmer. A rotary or sliding switch that lets you Greenfield. Flexible metal conduit through which
Ballast. A transformer that regulates the voltage in vary the intensity of a light. wires are pulled.
a fluorescent lamp.
Duplex receptacle. A device that includes two plug Ground. Refers to the fact that electricity always
Bell wire. A thin, typically 18-gauge wire used outlets. Most receptacles in homes are duplexes. seeks the shortest possible path to the earth.
for doorbells. Neutral wires carry electricity to ground in all
Electrical metallic tubing (EMT). Thin-walled, rigid circuits. An additional grounding wire, or the
Box. A metal or plastic enclosure within which conduit suitable for indoor use. sheathing of metal-dad cable or conduit, protects
electrical connections are made. against shock from a malfunctioning device.
End-of-the-run. An adjective describing devices
Bus bar. A main power terminal to which circuits located at the end of a circuit. No wires continue Ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). A safety
are attached in a fuse or breaker box. One bus bar from an end-of-the-run device's box to other device that senses any shock hazard and shuts off
serves the circuit's hot side; the other, the neutral receptacles, switches, or devices. a circuit or receptacle.
side. Some service panels and all subpanels have
separate neutral and ground bus bars. Feed wire. A wire that brings household current to High-intensity discharge (HID). A type of lighting,
a device. including lamps such as halogen, mercury vapor,
BX. Armored cable containing insulated wires but metal halide, and sodium. All HIDs produce a bright,
no ground wire. Fishing. Pulling cables through finished walls, economical light.
ceilings and conduit.
Cable. Two or more insulated wires wrapped in Hot wire. The conductor of current to a receptacle
metal or plastic sheathing. Fish tape. A hooked strip of spring steel used for or other outlet. 5ee also Neutral wire and Ground.
fishing cables through walls and for pulling wires
Canadian Standards Association (CSA). An through conduit. Incandescent bulb. A light source with an
independent testing agency that examines electrically charged metal filament that burns at
electrical components for safety hazards. Fixture. Any light or other electrical device white heat.
permanently attached to a home's wiring.
Circuit. The path of electrical flow from a power Insulation. A nonconductive covering that protects
source through an outlet and back to ground. Flexible metal conduit. Tubing that can be easily wires and other electricity carriers.
bent by hand.5ee also Greenfield.
Circuit breaker. A switch that automatically Junction box. An enclosure used for splitting circuits
interrupts electrical flow in a circuit in case of an Fluorescent tube. A light source that uses an into different branches. In a junction box, wires
overload or short. ionization process to produce ultraviolet radiation. connect only to each other, never to a switch,
This radiation becomes visible light when it hits the receptacle, or fixture.
Codes, electrical. Laws and regulations governing coated inner surface of the tube.
safe wiring practices. Kilowatt (kW). One thousand watts. A kilowatt
Four-way switch. A type of switch used to control a hour is the standard measure of electrical
GLOSSARY
Common. A terminal on a three-way switch, light from three or more locations. consumption.
usually with a dark-colored screw and marked COM.
218 WIRING 1-2-3

Knockouts. Tabs that can be removed to make Polarized plugs. Plugs designed so the hot and Three-way switch. Operates a light from two
openings in a box for cable or conduit connectors. neutral sides of a circuit can't be accidentally locations.
reversed. One prong of the plug is a different shape
LB connector or fitting. An elbow for conduit with than the other. Time-delay fuse. A fuse that does not break the
access for pulling wires. Connections cannot be circuit during the momentary overload that can
made within this fitting. Raceway wiring. Surface-mounted channels for happen when an electric motor starts up. If the
extending circuits. overload continues, the fuse blows, shutting off
Lead. A short wire coming from a fixture, typically the circuit.
stranded, to which a household wire is spliced. It is Receptacle. An outlet that supplies power for lamps
used instead of a terminal. and other plug-in devices. Transformer. A device that reduces or increases
voltage. In home wiring, transformers step down
MC cable. Armored cable containing at least two Recessed can light. A light fixture set into a wall current for use with low-voltage equipment such as
insulated wires and an insulated ground wire. cavity so the lens and trim are flush with thermostats and doorbell systems.
the ceiling.
Middle-of-the-run. An adjective used to describe Travelers. Two of the three conductors that run
devices located between two other devices on a Remodel box. A metal or plastic box, sometimes between switches in a 3-way installation.
circuit. Wires continue from its box to other called an "old-work" box, designed for a hole cut
switches, receptacles or devices. in drywall or plaster and lath. Underwriters knot. A knot used as a strain relief for
wires in a lamp socket.
Multitester. A device that measures voltage in a Rigid conduit. Wire-carrying metal tubing that can
circuit and performs other tests. be bent only with a special tool. Volt. A measure of electrical pressure. Volts x amps
= watts.
Neutral wire. A conductor that carries current from Romex. A trade name for nonmetallic sheathed
an outlet back to ground, clad in white insulation. cable. 5ee Nonmetallic sheathed cable. Watt. A measure of the power an electrical device
See also Hot wire and Ground. consumes. See also Volt, Amp, and Kilowatt.
Service entrance. The point where power enters
New-work box. A metal or plastic box attached to a home. Wire nut. A screw-on device used to splice two
framing members before the wall material is or more wires.
installed. Service panel. The main fuse box or breaker box in
a home.
Nonmetallic (NM) sheathed cable. Two or more
insulated wires and a bare ground wire clad in a Short circuit. A condition that occurs when hot and
plastic covering. neutral wires contact each other. Fuses and breakers
protect against fire, which can result from a short.
Old-work box.5ee Remodel box.
Stripping. Removing insulation from wire or
Outlet. Any potential point of use in a circuit, sheathing from cable.
including receptacles, switches, and light fixtures.
Subpanel. A subsidiary fuse box or breaker box
Overload. A condition that exists when a circuit is linked to a service panel that has no room for
carrying more amperage than it was designed to additional circuits.
handle. Overloading causes wires to heat up, which
in turn blows fuses or trips circuit breakers. System ground. A wire connecting a service panel
to the earth. It may be attached to a main water
Pigtail. A length of wire, stripped at both ends, pipe, to a rod driven into the ground, or to a plate
GLOSSARY
spliced with one or more other wires. It is used embedded along a footing.
instead of attaching two or more wires to a
terminal, an unsafe connection.
WIRING 1-2-3 219

INDEX
A-B track, 53,86-87, 89
Adapter, grounding, 38,81 wall switch, adding, 142 Electrical boxes
AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter), 76, 192, 199 Chandeliers, 52 attaching, 125,133
Aluminum wire, 23,49 Circuit breaker choosing, 114-115
Amperage adding new, 192-193, 195 extender, 213
appliance ratings, 49 AFCI, 76 inspecting for problems, 40, 44-45
circuit capacity, 48 breaker box, 19-20 installing braced ceiling box, 91-92
defined, 8 double-pole, 192,193 installing junction box, 136
fuse, 27,46 feeder, 195 network boxes, 180
receptacle, 15 GFCI, 75 remodeling box, 84, 132-134
Antioxidant, 50 resetting, 26 removing old, 90-91
Appliances tandem, 113 sizing, 112
receptacles, 79-80,197-198 testing, 26 Electrical codes, 37,108-109
wattage and amperage ratings, 49 types, 192 Electrical metallic tubing (EMT), 122, 124, 175
Arc fault, 76 Circuits Electrical symbols, 110
Armored cable, 12, 45, 109, 120-121 adding new, 192-193 Electricians, 37
Armored cable cutter, 107,120 capacity, 48,109 Electric meter, 43
Attic loading correctly, 112-113 Eurostyle lights, 88-89
running cable through, 130-131 mapping, 47 Fan
ventilating, 154-160 overload, 20, 48-49 bathroom vent, 161-163
Ballast, 211-212 shorts, 20 ceiling, 90-95
Baseboard heaters, 201-202 testing, 31 efficiency and noise control, 162
Bathroom types, 10 gable, 156
code requirements, 109 Closets, lighting, 200 roof, 157
lighting, 58 Coaxial cable, 12,184-185 whole-house, 158-160
vent fan, 161-163 Codes, electrical, 37, 108-109 Fishing bit, 131
wiring, 196 Conduit Fish tape, 107, 123, 129, 138, 176, 187
Bedroom wiring, 199 anchoring, 116 Fixtures, 24, 40. See also Light fixtures
Bridging clips, 183 running indoors, 122-124 Fluorescent lighting, 51,54
Bulbs, 51, 54,206 running outdoors, 174-176 installing, 102
Bushing, 121 types, 12 repairing, 211-212
BX cable, 12,13,104 Continuity, testing for, 31,208 undercabinet, 103-104
Continuity tester, 29,30, 77,204,206-207 Four-way switch, 78,151
C Cord Framing, wiring in unfinished, 125-127
Cabinets, lighting, 60 inspecting for damage, 41 Fuse box, 19-21,46
Cable plug replacement, 209-210 Fuses, 20, 27,46
anchoring to wood, 116 Cord switch, 210 Garbage disposal, wiring, 198
code requirements, 109 Cove lighting, 57 GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter)
running outdoors, 174-176 Cover plate, 38 breaker, 75
types, 12-13,109 Crimper, 107 installing, 74
upgrading, 12 receptacle, 39, 45, 74, 196-198,200
Cable clamp, 42, 119, 130, 193-195,202 D testing, 39
Cable staple, 104,116 Deck and patio lighting, 64,170 wiring, 45
Canister lights, 96-99 Dimmer Greenfield, 12,122
Cartridge fuse, 27 replacing, 69 Ground fault, 11,20
Cat 5 cable, 12,179-181 three-way, 68,69 Grounding
INDEX
Ceiling fan, 90-95 touch-sensitive, 70 checking for, 17,38

Ceiling fixtures types, 72 methods, 11,17-18
flush, 53, 84-85 Dishwasher, wiring, 198 receptacle, 11,15,18,80,81
medallion, 85 Door chime, 214-215 in rocky soil, 17
pendent, 52,56,208 Drip loops, 185 in service panel, 20
planning, 52-53 Dryer, 80,200 Grounding rod, 17
recessed, 61,96-99 Drywall, patching, 134-135
220 WIRING 1-2-3

H-J wall, 60,152 grounding in, 18
Halogen lighting, undercabinet, 100-101 wiring switches for, 146-151 sizing, 112
Heaters, baseboard, 201-202 Lighting, planning, 51-64 types, 114
Hickey, 85 bathroom, 58 Plastic conduit, 122,124
Home network, 178-189 bulbs and tubes, 54 Plug
panel installation, 186-189 ceiling fixtures, 52-53 inspecting, 41
planning, 179-180 deck and patio, 64 polarized, 11
running coaxial cable, 184-185 kitchen, 55-57 replacing, 209-210
telephone wiring installation, 181-183 living areas, 59-60 Polarization, 11,45
Inspection, 36-50 recessed, 61 Power
aluminum wiring, 49 security, 62 computing needs, 113
circuit overloads, avoiding, 48-49 yard, 63 distribution of, 8-9
electrical boxes, 44-45 Living areas shutting off main, 192
electrical codes, 37 code requirements, 109 testing for, 6,73
mapping circuits, 47 lighting of, 59-60 Pulling elbow, 123
service entrance, 43 Low-voltage lighting Punch-down tool, 183
service panel, 46 deck, 170
walk-around, 38-42 landscape, 63, 168-169 R
Inspectors, working with, 108 Lubricant, 123 Raceway wiring, 74, 137-138
Insulation, fiberglass, 84 Marettes, see Wire Nuts Range hood, 164-166
Insulation, wire, 12,32-33,44 Medallion, 85 Receptacle
Joint compound, 135 Metal box amperage, 15
Jumper cable, 17,183 clamping cables, 42,119 bathroom, 196
Junction boxes grounding, 18 choosing 120-volt, 15
crowding in, 40,44 sizing, 112 choosing 240-volt, 16
installing, 136 types, 115 end-of-the-run, 143
opening, 44 Metal-clad (MC) cable, 12 four-wire, 80
tapping into, 140 Metal conduit, 12, 122-123, 175 GFCI, 39,45, 74, 196-198,200
Metal studs, wiring through, 127 grounded, 11,15,18,80,81
K-M Motion-sensor lights, switch, 171 inspecting for problems, 38
Kitchen Multitester, 29,31,77,215 installing new, 141
code requirements, 109 in-use cover, 173
lighting, 55-57, 197 N-0 kid-safe, 39
wiring, 197-198 Nailing plates, 126 kitchen, 197-198
Knob-and-tube wiring, 13,42 Neutral bus bar, 11, 17,20,202 middle-of-the-run, 22,143
Lamppost, 177 New services outdoor, adding, 172-173
Lamps installing, 139-153 overloaded, 41
rewiring, 206-207 planning for, 105-116 polarization, 11,45
socket repair, 204 running new cable, 117-138 replacing, 73
switch replacement, 205 NMWU cable, 12 split, 22,24, 144
Laundry room wiring, 200 Nonmetallic (NM) cable, 12-13,118-119 switch combo, 71,77
LB fitting, 174-176 Offset crossbar, 85 switching, 143
Light fixtures Outdoor wiring, 62-64, 167-177 tapping into, 140
ceiling fixtures, 52-53, 83-99 ungrounded, 15,38
Eurostyle lights, 88-89 P 240-volt, 35, 79-80, 145
fan lights, 94 PVC conduit, 122, 124, 174-176 wiring, 22-24
INDEX
fluorescent, 102-104,211-212 Pendent lights, 52, 56,208 Receptacle analyzer, 29,30,39

grounding, 18 Pigtails, 35 Recessed lighting, 61,96-99
halogen, 100-101 Pilot-light switch, 70 Remodeling box, 84, 132-133
pendent, 52, 56,208 Plan, drawing, 110-111,180 Repairs, 203-217
recessed, 61,96-99 Plants, lighting for, 57 RG6/U cable, 179-180,184
track, 53,56, 86-87, 89 Plaster, 132,135 Rheostat, 160
undercabinet, 100-101, 103-104 Plastic box Rope lighting, 63,64
WIRING 1-2-3 221

INDEX (continued)
programmable, 77 attic, 154-160

Safety, 6 pull-chain, 205 bathroom, 161-163
electrical codes, 37 raceway, 138 gable fan, 156
grounding, 18 receptacle combo, 71,77 range hood, 164-166
halogen, 100 replacing, 66-69 roof fan, 157
inspection of home, 38-42 rheostat, 160 whole-house fan, 158-160
service panel, 20,46 sharing a hot wire, 22 Voltage
Saws, 98, 106, 132 single-pole, 16 defined, 8
Sconce lighting, 60,152 testing, 77-78 testing for, 31
Screwdrivers, 28,34, 107 three-way, 16,68, 78, 148-150 Voltage detector, 29,31
Security lighting, 62 timer, 71,72,77 Voltage tester, 29, 30, 66, 81
Service entrance, 43 touch sensitive, 70 Wall jack, 182,184
Service head, 8-9 ungrounded, 24 Wall lights, 60,152
Service panel vent, 155 Walls
adding new circuits, 192-193 wall, adding, 142 cutting holes in, 132
circuit map, 47 wireless remote, 95 patching, 134-135
fuse panels, 19-21,46 wiring, 22-24 running cable through, 129,182
how it works, 10,19-20 Swivel strap, 85 Water meter, 17
inspection, 46 Symbols, electrical, 110 Wattage
new, 191 appliance ratings, 49
opening, 46 T circuit capacity, 48
safety, 20,46 Tape, 14,28,35 Wire-bending screwdriver, 34
sizing up, 112 Task lighting, 55,56 Wire nuts, 14,33
subpanels, 21,194-195 Telephone wiring Wires
surge arrester, 82 distributing, 183 color, 12,23
upgrading, 20,191 installation, 181-182 inspecting, 42
wire thickness, checking, 46 Terminal, joining wire to, 34-35 insulation, 12
Sheathing, 118-119 Testers, 29, 30-31 leaky, 213
Sidewalk, running cable under, 177 Thermostat, 156-157,202,216-217 marked white wire, 23
Signal splitter, 184 Three-way switch, 16, 68, 78, 148-150 old, 13
Single-pole switch, 16 Timer switch, 71,72,77 repairing in boxes, 213
Smoke detector, 153 Tools, 28-29 size (gauge), 12,109
Splicing wire, 32-33 care, 29 splicing, 32-33
Split receptacle, 22,24, 144 cutting, 106,132 stripping, 32-33
Staples, 104,116 rubber-gripped, 6,28-29 Wire strippers, 28,32,207
Stranded wire, joining solid wire to, 33 for running new lines, 107 Wiring
Strip gauge, 35 testers, 29-31 baseboard heater, 201-202
Stripping wire/cable, 32-33, 185,187,207 Track lighting, 53, 56, 86-87,89 bathroom, 196
Subpanels, 21,194-195 Transformers, 8,43,101,215 bedroom, 199
Surge protection, 82 Trapeze lights, 88-89 can lights, 98-99
Suspended ceiling, 102 Trusses, running cable through, 127 ceiling fan/light, 93-95
Switch 240-volt circuit breakers, 193,195
adding a fixture with, 146-147 circuits, 10,200,202 end-line, 24
amperage, 15 heater, 201-202 fan, 155, 159, 163
ceiling fan, 95 receptacle, 16,34,79-80, 145 finished rooms, 128-131
choosing, 16 Two-part circuit finder, 29,31 kitchen, 197-198
INDEX
cord, 210 lamps, 206-207

dimmer, 68,69,70 U-Y laundry room, 200
double, 71,77 Undercabinet lighting receptacle, 22-24, 143-145
four-way, 78,151 fluorescent, 103-104 switch, 22-24, 146-151
inspecting, 39 halogen, 100-101 to a terminal, 34-35
lamp, 205 Underground-feed (UF) cable, 12, 174-175, 177 through-switch, 24
motion-sensor, 71 Vanity light, 152 undercabinet fluorescent lighting, 103-104
pilot-light, 70 Ventilation in unfinished framing, 125-127
Yard lighting, 63
222 WIRING 1-2-3
/L
- l
Bryan Verhulp John O'Reilly Mark Geertsema

Ottawa,ON Ottawa, ON Ottawa, ON
Guy Dixon
Folsom, CA
Gerald Morrow Rudolph Kos Larry Cuttrell

Whitby, Plano, TX McKinney, TX
Michael Bier
San Leandro, CA
Many thanks to
the employees of
Home Depot® whose
"wisdom of the aisles" Micheal Knish
Scarborough, ON has made Wiring 1-2-3® Toronto, ON
the most useful
book of its kind.
H. Louis Topel
Richardson, TX
Barbara Fargo
Atlanta, GA
V^l£__CL
Jeff Potts
Rockwall, TX Keith Keller
San Ramon, CA
R. Keith Stanley Tom Sattler

Cleburne, TX Atlanta, GA
Ian Cleghorn
Scarborough, ON
^ John DeSantis
Ancaster, ON St. Catharines, ON Ancaster, ON
Toolbox essentials: nuts-and-bolts
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g u e ss w o rk o u t o f h o m e im p ro v e m e n t p ro jects
w it h a g ro w in g lib r a r y o f step-by-step books
fro m th e e xp e rts a t T h e H o m e Depot®.
P acked w it h lots o f projects a n d p ra c tic a l
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You can do it.

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Look for the books that help you say “ I can do that!”
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o r wherever quality books are sold.
Wiring 1-2-3
Install, Upgrade,Repair, and Maintain
Your Home’s Electrical System
YOU CAN DO IT! WE CAN HELP!

Electrical projects can be simpler than you think. Wiring 1-2-3 gives you clear,
step-by-step instructions and detailed photography to ensure great results.
PLAN YOUR PROJECT

Start with the knowledge
you need before you take
on an electrical project.
RIGHT THE FIRST TIME SAFE AND SURE

Easy-to-follow steps and photography Get all the wisdom of the
allow you to add new lights and style experts to avoid common
to your home. mistakes.
$ 2 9 .9 5

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What are some of the main contributors to the book?

What are some of the main contributors to the book?

What are some of the topics covered in the book?

What are some of the topics covered in the book?

Expert Advice from The Home Depot

Install, Upgrade and Maintain

Publisher and Editor in Chief: James D. Blume

Vice President and General Manager: Douglas J. Guendel

Meredith Publishing Group

In Memoriam: E.T. Meredith III (1933-2003)

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

BASIC TOOLS AND SKILLS : §: § i j i i i i i i s i n i i i i i

INSPECTING YOUR HOME 36

SWITCHES AND RECEPTACLES 65

PLANNIN4S F<DR NEW SEI

RUNNING NEW CABLE 117

INSTALLING NEW SERVICES 139

EXHAUST FANS AND VENTS 154

HOME NETWORKING 178

MAJOR PROJECTS 190

Glossary ............................................ ___ 218 Quick guide to cable selection . . . . . . . 223

Q with electricity for years know they

what happens to people who ignore safe work

HOW POWER GETS DISTRIBUTED

HOW A CIRCUIT WORKS

GROUNDING AND POLARIZATION

WIRES AND CABLES

WIRE NUTS AND TAPE

RECEPTACLES AND SWITCHES

KNOW YOUR SERVICE PANEL

RECEPTACLE AND SWITCH W IRING

iring contributes to the convenience of life. Flip a switch or turn a

knob, and electricity instantly goes to work. Occasionally, however, a

lamp flickers or a receptacle goes dead. Many electrical procedures

dangerous to work with, it may be tempting to call a professional electrician.

it yourself or hire someone to do the work. WIRING 1-2-3 7

A SERVICE PANEL HAS 1 2 0 - AND 240-VOLT CIRCUITS

cause a shock. A grounded device, fixture, or appliance is

When a ground fault occurs, the ground path carries the

grounding system useless. To check whether a receptacle is

If a wire carries more amperage than it is rated for, it will dangerously

Types o f electrical cable

Older types of cable NMD 12-3 gauge

ire nuts, sometimes referred to as marettes, must cap all wire

#12 solid wire

Choosing a 120-volt receptacle

WALL-MOUNTED 120-VOLT 50 AMP SURFACE-MOUNTED 120/240-VO LT WALL-MOUNTED 120/240-VO LT

SINGLE-POLE SWITCH THREE-WAY SWITCH

JUMP A WATER METER

Ground wire returns to service panel

GROUNDING PLATES GROUNDING RODS

GROUND 'EM FIRST!

CABLES IN A PLASTIC BOX CONDUIT IN A METAL BOX

CABLE IN A METAL BOX TWO CABLES IN A METAL BOX

A 100-A M P FUSE BOX A 100-A M P BREAKER BOX

RESPECT YOUR SERVICE PANEL

SWITCHES SHARING A HOT WIRE

SHOCK DEFENSE: M AKE SURE

"THROUGH-SWITCH" WIRING "END-LINE" WIRING

2-w ire cable