Casting A Circuit in Resin

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Casting a circuit in resin


 PeterDove ·  Jan 29, 2007

 Not open for further replies.

PeterDove
P New Member

Jan 29, 2007  #1

Hi All, 

I was wondering if it would be feasable ( and the circuit would still work ) if I were to cast a PCB which
has a matrix of LEDs in resin so that the resin covers the back of the pcb and a little up on bases of the
LEDs essentially rendering the circuit weather resistant? 

Has anyone else done such a thing? 

Peter

Nigel Goodwin
Super Moderator Most Helpful Member

Jan 29, 2007  #2

It's quite common, and you can even buy resin specifically designed for the purpose ­ obviously it
renders repairs pretty well impossible, so you need to make sure it's 100% OK before you do it.

PIC programmer software, and PIC Tutorials at:


http://www.winpicprog.co.uk

PeterDove

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New Member
P

Jan 29, 2007  #3

Nigel Goodwin said:

It's quite common, and you can even buy resin specifically designed for the purpose ­ obviously it renders repairs
pretty well impossible, so you need to make sure it's 100% OK before you do it.

What sort of container can I use to put the PCB into and pour the resin into? I am worried about the resin
binding to the container I am pouring it into. 

Peter

ericgibbs
Well-Known Member Most Helpful Member

Jan 29, 2007  #4

hi Peter, 
If you use a 2 part epoxy mix you can pour into a cheap, open topped pvc box.  
They are in fact called 'potting cases', its usual, as they are so cheap,to leave the box as part of the
potted assembly. 

You could pour upto the level you want, let it harden, then trim off the excess pvc box with a utility knife. 
It a 'once and for good' method. 

There are silicon based potting compounds, which are semi­permanent, it can be cut away, the module
repaired then resealed. 

The best way I have found is to get a small IP65 box [water resistant seal]. 

Cut out a rectangular hole in the top cover, [ the size of your LED outline] cover this with 1­2mm thick
perspex or polycarbonate, on the inside of the lid, seal and secure the perspex.  

If you use a 'red' filter instead of the perspex its even better. 

Regards 
EricG 

edit: to clarify, when using the water resistantIP65 box, no need to pot the pcb/assembly.
Last edited: Jan 30, 2007

Eric " Good enough is Perfect ", good enough means it meets the Clients specification.!

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Please do NOT PM me with technical questions, use the Forums


http://www.winpicprog.co.uk

Hero999
Banned

Jan 29, 2007  #5

It's called potting and you can buy resin specifically for the purpose. I've heard about people using the
transparent resin used to make ponds and lakes in model railways but make sure the resin doesn't heat
up too much when it cures.

I do not answer private messages asking for help because no one else can: benefit from advice I may give or
correct me if I'm wrong.

Please ask on the open forum if you have a question and I'll be happy to help, if I know the answer.

HarveyH42
H Banned

Jan 29, 2007  #6

PeterDove said:

What sort of container can I use to put the PCB into and pour the resin into? I am worried about the resin binding to
the container I am pouring it into. 

Peter

You need a mold release agent the doesn't react with the type of resin you use. 
I work with pewter (not so much these days), and coated my model and anything I didn't want stuck to
the mold material with petroleum jelly. Not sure if this will work for you, I made molds out of concrete or
plaster of paris. I'd search some sites on resin casting, I'm sure you will find some kind of spray on mold
release, maybe something common around the house. I'm guessing that you want just the resin piece
when you are done.

Sceadwian
Banned

Jan 29, 2007  #7

A very clean debris free board is really important before you do the resin pouring. 
Another thing to keep in mind is it's going to effect the heat dissipation characteristics of the board. I'm

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sure various resins have different heat transfer ratios.

"Because I be what I be. I would tell you what you want to know if I
could mum, but I be a cat and no cat anywhere ever gave anyone a
straight answer, har har."

Oznog
Active Member

Jan 29, 2007  #8

It's important to note that this significantly reduces the dissipation of the LEDs, which is already a
problem being in close proximity. You may need to run the LEDs at a lower current. 

How much dissipation is lost depends part on how deep the potting resin is poured, but actually IIRC
LEDs in those 5MM pkgs get most of their dissipation through the leads and the PCB traces. If so
whether the PCB is potted or not may be more important than the potting around the LEDs.
Last edited: Jan 29, 2007

I thought what I'd do was I'd pretend I was one of those deaf-mutes.

hjames
H New Member

Jan 29, 2007  #9

I think polyethylene is the material of choice if you need some sort of temporary non­stick cup/tray to do
the pouring. Pretty much nothing sticks to it.  

http://www.sunbriteleds.com/product.asp?id=38 
These guys have a ~.25" lens on top of a .25" solid molded/poured base. I have one with some pretty
ugly cracks in the resin, probably because the manufacturer tried to pour the entire thing in one layer. 

Also, I think some materials (like RTV silicone) will react with copper and corrode it a bit, so keep an eye
out.

ClydeCrashKop
Well-Known Member Most Helpful Member

Jan 30, 2007  #10

Poly Vinyl Alcohol, PVA is mold release for fiberglass type resins. Brush it, spray it, nothing sticks to it.
Water soluble.

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Beware the asterisk*


Warning labels are to thwart natural selection.

Oznog
Active Member

Jan 30, 2007  #11

PVA is difficult to put onto plastics like a project box because it will bead up and fail to cover. Really, a
good mold release is just petroleum jelly. Very easy to get a reliable coating all over. 

The reason people like to use PVA is it's water­soluble, thus very easy to clean off. Petrolum jelly will
just take a few paper towels.

I thought what I'd do was I'd pretend I was one of those deaf-mutes.

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