World Heritage Series

FATEHPUR
SIKRI

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA

World Heritage Series

FATEHPUR
SIKRI
Fatehpur Sikri is the third in a series of travel
guides being published by the Archaeological
Survey of India with the aim of introducing
the visitor to the World Heritage Monuments
in India.

Extensive historical research and a focus on

architectural details make this book an
invaluable companion for anyone wishing to
explore the imperial city Emperor Akbar built
and then abandoned after 14 years. The guide
takes the traveller to the many monuments
within the imperial palace complex, and to the
dargah of the Sufi saint. Shaikh Salim Chishti
and other monuments around it.

Specially commissioned photographs,

architectural illustrations and easy-to-follow
site maps make the book a visual delight.

Also included is a comprehensive section of

all the information a traveller needs to make
his way to Fatehpur Sikri - from when to visit
to where to stay, from tourism information
offices to airline offices.

• Introduction
9 Gateways and Bazaars
• Imperial Palace Complex
• Imperial Harem
9 Jami Masjid and Chishti Monuments
• Environs of Jami Masjid
• Hiran Minar and Waterworks
• Practical Information

Also available in the World Heritage Series:

C Qutb Minar & Adjoining Monuments
C Humayun's Tomb & Adjacent Monuments

ENTRY FEE
$ 5 or Rs 250 for foreigners
Rs 10 for Indians
Still Photography
•
Free
-V ' A.

Video Photography
Rs 25
 < > vV

o‘v

Key
1. Tansen's Baradari
2. Bazaar with Naubat-Khana
3. Taksal
4. Diwan-i-Am
5. Imperial Palace Complex
6. Daftar Khana
7. Imperial Harem
8. Shah Quli's Baoli
\ ^ 9. Hakim's Hammam
V P~ Jj
\ Sr
10. Jami Masjid
i. 0 11. Shaikh Salim's Tomb
12. Buland Darwaza
13. Badshahi Darwaza
14. Hiran Minar

MAP NOT TO SCALE

i.Palace Complex

Key
A Diwan-i-Am
B Diwan-i-Khass
C Ankh Michauli
D Astrologer's Seat
E Pachisi courtyard
F Panch Mahal
G Turkish Sultana's
Pavilion
H Anup Talao
I Khwabgah
J Daftar Khana
K Maryam's House
L Jodh Bai's Palace
M Lower Haram Sara
N Birbal's House
0 Nagina Masjid
Fatehpur Sikri

Based on Ebba Koch: Mughal Architecture, New Delhi, 2002

//
 Key
1. Tansen's Baradari
2. Bazaar with Naubat-Khana
3. Taksal
4. Diwan-i-Am
5. Imperial Palace Complex
6. Daftar Khana
7. Imperial Harem
8. Shah Quli's Baoli
9. Hakim's Hammam
10. lami Masjid
11. Shaikh Salim's Tomb
12. Buland Darwaza
13. Badshahi Darwaza
14. Hiran Minar

MAP NOT TO SCALE

Palace Complex

Key
A Diwan-i-Am
B Diwan-i-Khass
C Ankh Michauli
D Astrologer's Seat
E Pachisi courtyard
F Panch Mahal
G Turkish Sultana's
Pavilion
H Anup Talao
I Khwabgah
J Daftar Khana
K Maryam's House
L Jodh Bai's Palace
M Lower Haram Sara
N Birbal's House
0 Nagina Masjid
 Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2017 with funding from
Public.Resource.Org

https://archive.org/details/fatehpursikriOOrizv
 World Heritage Series

FATEHPUR
SIKRI

Based on the text of

S A A Rizvi

Published by

The Director General

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA
New Delhi, 2002
 Copyright © 2002
Archaeological Survey of India
Government of India
ISBN 81-87780-09-6

Editor-in-Chief: Swati Mitra

Senior Editor: Sona Thakur
Assistant Editor: Samia Sharma
Designer: Sagarmoy Paul

Photographers:
Shalinee Ghosh: pp.16,18, 22- 25, 28, 30, 33-43, 50-52,
54, 56-60, 62, 63B, 73, 77, 78, 88, 96
Sagarmoy Paul: pp. 3, 4, 9,12-15, 32, 46, 53, 61, 63A, 74-76, 81-83
Mohit Saxena: pp. 7,11, 26, 27, 45, 67-71; Krishna Kumar: p. 29
N Srivastava, ASI: pp: 85-86; Sona Thakur: p. 47
Rajbir Singh, ASI: Cover Photograph
Reproduction of original drawings by E W Smith
from the collection of ASI Agra Circle on
pp. 44, 48, 64
Design Assistance: V Murali

Special thanks to
Umesh Kumar, B R Mani, Arundhati Banerji,
Hoshiar Singh and Purnima Ray
of the Archaeological Survey of India, New Delhi
and to Mohammad K K and Munazzar Ali of the Agra Circle, ASI
without whose assistance this book would not have been possible.
Thanks also to D V Sharma, S A (Excavation Branch II)
for his note on 'Recent Excavations in Fatehpur Sikri'.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,

stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,
without the prior permission of the copyright owner.

Great care has been taken in the compilation, updating and validation of
information, and every effort has been made to ensure that all
information is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press.
Details like telephone and fax numbers, opening hours,
prices and travel information may change.

Conceptualised and Designed by

Good Earth Publications,
Eicher Goodearth Limited, New Delhi.
Printed at International Print-O-Pac Ltd, New Delhi

Price: Rs 99
 Contents

Foreword 5

Introduction 6

Gateways and Bazaars 12

Imperial Palace Complex 18

• Din-i-Ilahi 37

Imperial Harem 38

Jami Masj id and

Chishti Monuments 54

• Chishtis 67

• Recent Excavations 70

Environs of Jami Mas j id 72

Hiran Minar and Waterworks 78

Hamm am s 84

Practical Information 90

Further Reading 93

Glossary 94

Index 95
Foreword
/y 1 atehpur Sikri is the third guidebook in a series being
\Jri brought out by the Archaeological Survey of India to
showcase the 16 World Cultural Heritage Sites maintained by
them. Fatehpur Sikri is one of India's most prominent tourist sites and
due to its proximity to Agra, also one of the most visited.

In order to maintain the pristine glory of the complex, the ASI has
drawn up an elaborate Master Plan for Fatehpur Sikri. Efforts are being
made to ensure that, although all tourist facilities are provided, the
ambience of the heritage city is maintained. Extensive conservation work
is being carried out, including the landscaping and greening of all open
spaces within the complex, and a special effort is also being made to
remove all unauthorised structures within the medieval city.

Founded in AD 1571 by Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar (1542-1605),

the third Mughal ruler of India, this sprawling capital city is located
37 kms west of Agra. This medieval city built in honour of Shaikh
Salim-ud-din Chishti was the capital of Akbar between 1571-85.

Exhibiting the vibrant features of sixteenth century Mughal architecture,

the majestic monuments dot the slopes of the dominantly sandstone
ridge overlooking the vast (now dried up) lake towards the north-west.
This city, enclosed by a 11 kms long fortification wall pierced with
numerous gateways, accommodates the remains of the ancient township
built for common people to the south of the ridge. The imperial edifices
built of sandstone, however, are clustered at the top of the ridge and
include halls, palaces, gardens, pleasure resorts, hammams (baths),
mosques and tombs, apart from the remains of the quarters for noblemen.

Fatehpur Sikri stands out as one of the best examples of medieval urban
planning, particularly in its blending of religious, secular and defence
architecture. The continuance of this magnificent tradition can be seen
in Lahore, Agra and Delhi.

The palace complex and the Jami Masjid are some of the early projects
undertaken at Fatehpur Sikri (1569-74) and together denote the blend of
elegance and magnificence in Mughal architecture. The famous Buland
Darwaza was added later to commemorate the victory of Akbcr over
Gujarat.

Among other important buildings are the tomb of Shaikh Salim Chishti,
the Naubat or Naqqar Khana (drum house), Taksal (mint), Karkhanas
(royal workshops), Khazana (treasury), Hakim's Quarters, Diwan-i-
Khass, Diwan-i-Am, Maryam's House, also called Sunahra Makan,
Jodh Bai's Palace, Birbal's House, etc.

Under a sustained field archaeological research programme, explorations

and excavations have been carried out since 1977-78, revealing hitherto
unknown facets of the cultural heritage of this medieval city.

JAGMOHAN
Minister of Tourism and Culture
Government of India
In 1571, Akbar decided to build himself
a capital city. For it, he chose Sikri, a
village on the road between the
Mughals' imperial centre at Agra and
their spiritual centre at Ajmer.

Unlike Agra that was a thriving centre of

trade, Sikri was just a little village which
had first come to Mughal notice when
Babur, triumphant after defeating Rana
Sanga at Khanuwa in 1527, according to
a popular belief, named the village
Shukri, meaning thanksgiving.

As chronicles attest, Akbar's choice of

this site was largely governed by the
presence there of Shaikh Salim Chishti,
a Sufi saint, who had predicted that the
heirless Akbar would soon be blessed
with not one but three sons. By situating
his imperial capital on ground hallowed
by the popular mystic, Akbar sought to
attach the charisma of the Sufis to his
imperial authority.

Fatehpur Sikri reflected Akbar's design

and architectural philosophy. This
'Akbari' style of architecture consisted
of a synthesis of earlier styles, Timurid,
Persian and Indian. The lavish use of
red sandstone sought to minimise the
stylistic clashes consequent to the mixing
of these disparate elements.

The emperor's own interest in the

construction was all-consuming:
'He even quarried stone himself,
alongside the workmen', says Father
Monserrate, the Jesuit priest who visited
the city in 1580. Built by a single ruler Right:
in a relatively short span of fifteen years, entrance1
there was thus a certain architectural arch of
Jami Masjid

8
■ :'/l

9
coherence to the city conceived as a
courtly centre.

Fatehpur Sikri rose rapidly from a

nondescript village to a thriving centre
of commerce once Akbar's court took
its seat here in 1571-72. Historians
estimate that the total population of
Fatehpur Sikri in 1580 was just short of a
quarter of a million. In 1585, the English
traveller Ralph Fitch visited the city at its
apogee, and wrote, 'Agra and Fatepore
are two very great cities, either of them
much greater than London and very
populous.'

The new city had significant resonances

with Akbar's early life as king. It was at
Fatehpur Sikri in 1569 that his son and
heir, Salim, was born; it was from here
that Akbar marched out to Gujarat in
1572, and returned victorious the
following year. To celebrate this triumph,
the emperor renamed Sikri as Fatehpur,
meaning city of victory, and endowed it
with a monumental commemorative
doorway, the Buland Darwaza.

However, in 1585, only fourteen years

after it was built, Akbar and his court left
Fatehpur Sikri never to return again.
Political exigencies made him move his
capital to Lahore till 1598.

The popular explanation that Latehpur

Sikri was suddenly abandoned because
the supply of water failed is unlikely,
given the otherwise meticulous planning
that went into the making of the city.
A replenishable water source must have
been one of the first things Akbar's city
planners took account of.

10
The more plausible explanation is that
Akbar never really intended to establish
a permanent capital. He shifted court
when he felt necessary. Fatehpur Sikri
was temporarily suited to Akbar's
scheme of imperial expansion - it was
close to Rajasthan and Gujarat as well as
the Gangetic plain - allowing him to
swoop wheresoever the call of dominion
took him.

Below:
When he left for Lahore in 1585, Akbar The jalis surrounding
took the life from Fatehpur Sikri, leaving the tomb of Salim
Chishti resemble
it a vast ghost city. carved ivory rather
than chiselled marble

11
Gateways
and liiaars

Naubat Khana, where the imperial drums were beaten

to announce the arrival of the emperor

12
 7 atehpur Sikri, Akbar's
\l 1 imperial capital, was planned
L-x as the cultural, commercial and
administrative centre of the empire.
Strategically situated, it afforded the
emperor and his court the security of
Agra Fort within a day's march. Fatehpur
Sikri, following the general pattern of
medieval Indian towns, was provided
with walls, some 6 kms long, which
enclosed the city from north to south¬
west; while the western side was
protected by a lake, now largely dry. The
walls were loop-holed and there was a
path some 2.5 metres wide inside to allow
soldiers to pass to and fro.

13
 Left:
Agra
Gateway,
the entry
point in to
Fatehpur Sikri

Historian Glenn D the Akbarabad (Agra),

Lowry says that, seen the Suraj (Sun) or Bir,
from the lake, Fatehpur the Ghandar (Moon),
Sikri's plan takes on a and the Gwalior
coherence which is Darwazas. Beyond these,
invisible from the further to the west, are
western approach along the Terha (Crooked) and
the main road. 'From the Ajmeri Darwazas.
the Hiran Minar, which Delhi, Agra, Gwalior,
is axially aligned to the and Ajmer Gateways are
Hathi Pol, the core of so called because the
the city develops in a roads to these towns led
triangular manner out through them.
towards the ridge with The gateways are all
the north-east corner identical in design but
of the Diwan-i-Am the Agra Gateway is best
forming one edge of preserved and most
the city and the south¬ frequently used by the
west corner of the modern tourist coming
Jamf Masjid the other. either from Agra or
Access into the city Bharatpur.
was carefully controlled
by a series of gates or Inside the Agra
barriers that Gateway, abutting on
progressively restricted the wall to the right is
movement from the a large irregular
public spaces into the pentagonal enclosure
zones of the city containing ruined
reserved for the royal cloisters. Locally known
family and nobility'. as the kotwali or police
checkpost, it was
The Gateways a carvanserai in Akbar's
time. William Finch, a
Beginning from Delhi European traveller who
Darwaza in Sikri visited Fatehpur Sikri in
village, and moving 1610 by when it had
westward lie the city's been long abandoned,
gateways: the Lai (Red), says, 'Close within the
14
gate is the King's sarai, The road from Agra
with large stone Gateway to the imperial
lodgings but much palaces runs through
ruined'. a walled enclosure,
usually known as the
To the right, behind Naubat Khana or
the caravanserai, the Naqqar Khana.
eastern end of the Naubat Khana was
Fatehpur ridge rises a place where drums
steeply. On its slopes were beaten to make
and summit are the important
remains of some elegant announcements, and
quarters, which were in this case also to
probably inhabited by herald the emperor's
the nobility. Most appearances in the
interesting and best Diwan-i-Am. However
preserved of these is a according to
charming pavilion of archaeologist SAA
red sandstone called Rizvi, this enclosure
Tansen's Baradari, was part of a chahar suq
although it certainly or a market arranged
was not the residence around a square.
of the illustrious The triple arched gate
musician. The road of this bazaar is based
leads to the attractive on the Tin Darwaza of
Dak Bungalow of the Ahmedabad (first half
Archaeological Survey of 15th century).
of India (ASI), built by
Lord Curzon (1898- A little ahead on the Below:
Tansen's
1905). The Dak right is a huge structure
Baradari
Bungalow is worth with rubble masonry
was probably
visiting if only for the walls, popularly called the residence
magnificent view it Taksal or mint, but of some
offers of Sikri village most likely it was the important
and Delhi Darwaza. Karkhana or workshop nobleman

mmmm .jm

"MM: 'mmm

15
where goods - both for Superintendent of the
daily use as well as Imperial Table whose
luxury items - were duty was to wait upon
manufactured for the the emperor at his
court. The Taksal was meals.
probably just a part of
the Karkhana and it is South-east of the
possible that gold and Karkhana is a small,
presentation coins were ruined building, faced
minted here. with red sandstone,
popularly called
To the right, behind the Khazana or treasury.
Karkhana are remains This is being converted
of the imperial kitchen. to accommodate the
Among these ruins is a ASI Museum.
large plastered tank,
called Hauz-i-Shirin or In a depression to the
sweet tank, which south-west of this
collects rainwater. house, are tolerably Facing Page:
According to Ain-i- preserved masonry A miniature
painting of
Akbari, while Akbar buildings called the
Akbar
only drank the water Hakims' Quarters, supervising
of Ganga, he allowed believed to have been the
rainwater to be used in the residence of the construction
preparing the food for three Hakim brothers. of Fatehpur
the court. Hailing from Gilan on Sikri
the southern shore of
Not far from the Hauz- the Caspian Sea, their Below:
The royal
i-Shirin, stand the knowledge of
workshop
remains of the Yatish philosophy and the situated just
Khana or House of sciences, earned them behind the
Muhammad Baqir. the title of Hakim in ASI Dak
He was the sufrachi or Akbar's court. Bungalow

16
 ifas

• J ,-
iJ' '• '
\ k
rJ&* /: Ibw.
«Mg$m TW^:,,.- * ..}m ■ i

mm L ' |4 w

W\ r
.; pSfc, T^l
1? .

17
 Bird's eye-view of the Imperial
Palace complex

18
 bul Fazl, Akbar's court
chronicler, describes the
emperor's architects and
designers as lofty-minded
mathematicians and says the emperor's
style of architecture was understandable
only to the scientifically oriented.
According to contemporary historians,
Akbar took a great interest in the building
of Fatehpur Sikri and probably also
dictated its architectural style.

19
Though elements within sandstone in the
the Imperial Palace neighbouring areas of
complex can be related Fatehpur Sikri, also
to various traditions, meant that all the
it does not as a whole buildings here were
adhere to any single made of this red stone.
style or pattern. Hence,
in many respects it The Imperial Palace
represents a unique and complex consists of a
mysterious masterpiece. number of independent
The Imperial Palace pavilions arranged in
complex, consisting of formal geometry on a
the Treasury, the offices, piece of level ground.
the Daulat Khana, the
Haram Sara or ladies'
palace, now appears
Imperial Palace Complex
irregular and disjointed;
but in Akbar's time it
was part of a well-
connected and highly-
planned complex. The
complex, with Hathi Pol
for its main entrance,
was divided into three
parts: The mardana or
men's section, the
zanana or women's area,
and the official area.
The main units of
Haram Sara were earlier
connected to the Daulat
Khana by screened
corridors and were
closed entirely from
the treasuries and the
offices. Another viaduct
connected the Daulat
Khana to Hathi Pol
and beyond to the
Hiran Minar.

Seeking to revive the

splendours of Persian
court ceremonial made
famous by his ancestor
Timur, Akbar planned
the complex on Persian
principles. But the
influences of his
adopted land came
through in the typically
Indian embellishments.
MAP NOT TO SCALE
The easy availability of

20
 a pattern derived from
Arab and Central Asian
tent encampments.
In its entirety, the
monuments of Fatehpur
Sikri thus reflect the
genius of Akbar in
assimilating diverse
regional architectural
influences within a
holistic style that was
uniquely his own.

Key
A Diwan-i-Am
B Diwan-i-Khass
C Ankh Michauli
D Astrologer's Seat
E Pachisi courtyard
F Panch Mahal
G Turkish Sultana's
Pavilion
H Anup Talao
I Khwabgah
J Daftar Khana
K Maryam's House
L Jodh Bai's Palace
M Lower Haram Sara
N Birbal's House
0 Nagina Masjid

Based on Ebba Koch, Mughal Architecture, New Delhi, 2002

21
 and on either side were Above:
Diwan-i-Am Colonnade
stone screens carved
The colonnaded in fine geometrical of the
Diwan-i-Am
courtyard of the patterns.
Diwan-i-Am or the
public enclosure runs The Akbari style of
112 metres from north architecture, heavily
to south and 55 metres influenced by regional
from east to west. The patterns, is clearly
colonnade of 111 bays visible here. The
runs around the court, geometric patterns on
broken at the west by the jalis are the only
the emperor's pavilion, conspicuously Islamic
from where Akbar feature. However, like
would dispense justice other apartments in the
to one and all. palace, the construction
is trabeate and includes
The pavilion is a components such as
projecting structure corbelled capitals and
with a pitched stone chhajjas derived from
roof and five equal indigenous temple
openings to the front. architecture. From here
The emperor sat in the the emperor had a
central bay upon direct passage into the
cushions and carpets Daulat Khana or private

22
royal apartments, as
does the modern
traveller.

To the right of the path

that leads into the
Diwan-i-Am courtyard
is a great stone ring
embedded into the
earth. Local guides
will tell you that this
was where an elephant
used to be tethered for
the sole task of crushing
the condemned to death
in full view of the
emperor and his court.
A more plausible reason
is that the ring was
probably meant for
exhibiting captured
elephants brought to Above-
the palace as trophies The pavilion in Diwan-i-Am
of war. where Akbar gave public
audience

23
 Oaulat Khana
Daulat Khana, literally
the Abode of Fortune,
comprises the pillared
structure known as
Diwan-i- Khass, the
two-roomed Diwan Below:
Imperial buildings in
Khana-i-Khass, the
the Daulat Khana complex
Khwabgah, the Anup
Talao, the Turkish Right:
Sultana's Pavilion and Detail from the Turkish
some other minor Sultana's Pavilion or
structures. Hujra-i-Anup Talao

24
25
Diwan-i-Khass According to Rizvi, Above:
'.. .It was possibly a Diwan-i-Khass,
(Jewel House) storehouse for the one of the
imperial hoard of gems most famous
This is one of the most structures in
fantastically conceived and jewels.... And it is
Fatehpur Sikri
yet enigmatic buildings probably quite true that
in Fatehpur Sikri and the emperor often sat
continues to be its most suspended in air as it
widely photographed were, upon the great
monument. It has been capital... to inspect his
variously identified as jewels.' According to
the Diwan-i-Khass, the other historians it was
Jewel House and even the Diwan-i-Khass or
the elusive Ibadat hall of private audience.
Khana. Its interior is Y D Sharma conjectures
dominated by a that the central place on
massive, richly carved the top of the pillar was
pillar which supports occupied by the
one of the most emperor's throne while
elaborate capitals ever his ministers sat at the
conceived: a circular corners or on the
arrangement of brackets peripheral passage.
that supports a circular
platform, linked by four G H R Tillotson, on the
diagonal 'bridges' other hand, recalls the
connecting the hanging pattern of mandalas, in
galleries to each corner which the column
of the building. stands for the axis of
the world in Hindu

26
cosmology and hence A problem faced while
anyone who sits on it identifying many
would adopt the monuments in Fatehpur
position of supreme is that they were
power. He also claims constructed in such a
that its role may have way that a variety of
been ceremonial and uses could be assigned
ritualistic rather than to them. With the
practical. passage of time it
became even harder,
Percy Brown says that since many legends, not
the emperor sat necessarily historically
enthroned on the central accurate, became
platform while listening attached to them,
to arguments from making it even more
different religions, the difficult to distinguish
whole arrangement fact from fiction.
signifying what he has
termed as 'Akbar's
dominion over the
Four Quarters'. Below:
The richly carved pillar in
Diwan-i-Khass

27
 Left:
Exquisite
stone brackets
of the
Astrologer's
Seat

There is little possibility domestic activities

that the building might have been
popularly called Ankh performed.
Michauli, literally blind
man's buff, was actually In the south-west corner
the place where Akbar of the Treasury stands
played this game with a kiosk traditionally
the women of his called the Astrologer's
harem. Akbar's days Seat. The luxuriously
and nights passed in extravagant stone
constant hard work, and brackets placed on each
he must have had little of the kiosk's four
time for such frivolities. openings make it a
Rizvi claims that this photographer's delight.
building was actually Rizvi suggests that the
part of the Imperial emperor would sit here
Treasury, hence and watch the
explaining its location at distribution of the
the northern end of the copper coins which
Daulat Khana contemporary European
quadrangle. Tillotson travellers say were
and other historians, usually heaped in the
however, differ, courtyard to pay
suggesting that it was subordinate officers or
perfectly adaptable as a else the needy poor.
palace pavilion in which
a range of social and

28
Diwan Khana-i- window above it. Father
Monserrate records that
Khass and carpets and cushions
Khwabgah were laid upon the
platform, reminding
Diwan Khana-i-Khass,
him of 'a couch covered
a two-chambered
with scarlet rugs'.
pavilion to the far left
The emperor used to
of the imperial complex,
reach this platform by
is where the emperor
means of wooden or
met with his closest
marble steps, which
advisers. The eastern
could be slid beneath
room was once richly
the platform.
painted and the faintest
outlines of floral
To the east of the room
designs still remain.
is a small bathroom,
The lower walls of the
with water that flowed
rooms were hollow,
through conduit pipes
with sliding stone slabs
fitted in channels under
closing the openings -
the floor. In the west
historians conjecture Below:
wall there was a
that the spaces were Platform in
doorway leading to the
used for storing books the Diwan
courtyard in front of the Khana-i-Khass
that Akbar was fond of
Records Office, which on which
having read out to him.
was used by clerks of Akbar is
the Record Office as believed to
A large room behind
well as the translators have sat,
this chamber, 12 metres discussing
of the Maktab Khana,
by 8 metres, contained a various issues
while they waited upon
platform against the with close
the emperor.
southern wall, with a advisors

29
The window on the The ladies of the Haram
southern wall of the Sara could easily reach
larger chamber, looking the emperor here
on to the courtyard whenever he so wished.
quadrangle, was the After sitting cross-
opening from where the legged in the Diwan
emperor showed Khana-i-Khass for
himself to his subjects several hours Akbar
every day. Some of his probably used to retire
subjects would eat here for relaxation.
nothing until they had
seen his face. The Badauni relates the
practice, popularised story of Devi, a Brahmin
by Akbar, was known interpreter of the
as jharokha-darshan. Mahabharata, who used
to be pulled up while
The beautiful chamber sitting on a charpai
on the first floor of the (Indian string bed) till
Diwan Khana-i-Khass he was level with the
was the emperor's emperor's Khwabgah.
private room, popularly Whilst thus suspended
known as Khwabgah or in mid-air, he instructed
sleeping chamber. the emperor on the

■■
fT#.

fP55^
* a
myths and legends of Anup Taiao
Hinduism. It was here
too that the emperor Anup Talao or the
would allow his Peerless Pool -
favourites to read out incidentally referred to
passages from books to as Kapur Talao by
him; or he would chat Monserrate and
with his courtiers Abul Jahangir - is a 29 metres
Fazl and Raja Birbal. square tank, now dry
Philosophers, Sufi most of the year, north¬
saints, and others were east of the Diwan
also presented to the Khana-i-Khass. Steps
emperor here, and in led down to the water,
this room they all sat which was supplied
together and talked from the northern
informally on divers^ waterworks. It is now
subjects. less than one-and-a-half
metre deep, having
been given a new floor
Below: in the 1840s. Anup Talao
Anup Talao or Peerless Pool has a central island
lies to the north-east of the linked by four bridges
Diwan Khana-i-Khass to its sides.

#-**r
ffl&ys
Turkish Sultana's discussion took place in
the Hujra-i-Anup Talao
Pavilion (Chamber of the Anup
(Hujra-i-Anup Talao) Talao).

North-east of Anup
The Abdar Khana or
Talao is a small and
the Water and Fruit
beautiful structure
Store has been wrongly
which has been
called Girls' School.
described as a 'superb
This two-storied
jewel casket'. In fact, the
structure was probably
carvings on its bracket
where Akbar's drinking
friezes, pillars and
water was kept in the
pilasters are so intricate
care of a trusted
that they appear to be
nobleman. The imperial
the work of wood-
store for fruits such as
carvers rather than that
melons, mangoes, and
of stonemasons.
grapes was also
probably here, and the
Commonly known as
'forty courses' that
Turkish Sultana's
usually comprised the
Pavilion, it is unlikely
emperor's meal were
that the building was a
tasted and served from
zanana residence, since it
this building.
is located so close to the
mardana section of the Below:
imperial palace. It was The superbly carved Turkish
probably a pavilion for Sultana's Pavilion adjoining
repose, attached to the Anup Talao
pool. Badauni says that Left:
one night in 1575, a very Detail from the Turkish
important religious Sultana's Pavilion

33
 Left:
Pachisi, the
courtyard
paved to
resemble a
board game

The large courtyard of beyond the tarred road

red sandstone that lies leading to the Jami
between the Anup Talao Masjid is the Daftar
and Diwan-i-Khass is Khana or Record Office.
known as the Pachisi. The grouping of double
It is so named because columns with their fine
some of the paving brackets, one on the
stones are laid out to outer and one on the
resemble the cruciform inner aspect produces a
board on which the suggestion of arches.
popular Indian board The Daftar Khana's
game of pachisi is enclosure sheltered
played. Local legend another of Akbar's
claims that the emperor projects, his translation
played the game using bureau, or Maktab
slave girls as living Below:
Khana, represented
pieces. Daftar Khana
today by the remains of
or the
cloisters to the west of imperial
Outside the Daulat the Daftar Khana Records
Khana complex and building. Office

34
Ibadat Khana
If only it could be
positively identified,
the richest building at
Fatehpur in historical
and literary significance
would have been the
Ibadat Khana or 'house
of worship' where
Akbar led discussions
with divines of various
religions. It is certain
that it is not among the
buildings still standing.
While its site has been
identified with tolerable
certainty, it is scarcely
worth the inspection of
the visitor interested
only in the splendid and
the picturesque.

Archaeologist Rizvi
says that the Ibadat
Khana was behind the
principal Haram Sara
Palace. Today it is a
tumbled mass of rubble
scattered with
gravestones and
scrubby trees, located
between the ticket gate
adjacent to Jodh Bai's
Palace and the Badshahi
Darwaza of the dargah
complex.

All that a visitor can see

today is a massive
rubble platform, 19.5
metres square, covered
with about 18 cm of
lime mortar, visible at
the edges. On looking
more closely, one
perceives the outline of
a second platform quite
clearly. Heaped upon
this is more debris,
which might have
represented a third
platform.
Din-i-llahi
O ne of the most
contentious
1582, he convened a
general conference of the
aspects of Akbar's prominent divines of
reign was the religious various religions, nobles,
policy pursued by him. officers and the ulema to
As a man drawn to discuss the desirability of
mysticism and fond of a 'national' religion.
deep contemplation, He announced, 'For
Akbar's quest for an empire ruled by one
formulating a new head it was a bad thing
religion has to be viewed to have the members
as a blend of personal divided among
inclination and state policy themselves'. His
progression away from
Akbar carefully examined orthodox Islam towards
the doctrines of the various his self-created religion
sects of Islam apart from has often been seen by
studying Hinduism, historians as part of a
Jainism, Zoroastrianism, conscious effort to
Judaism and Christianity represent all his people.
and meditated on various
aspects of their teachings, The official account of the
customs and ceremonies. Divine Faith is given by
This study pursued with Abul Fazl in Ain-i-Akbari,
devotion for more than who says that people
seven years revealed that seeking guidance to truth,
every religion had will naturally look to their
elements of truth but king. Din-i-Ilahi was
differences in opinion officially called the Tauhid-
regarding interpretation i-Ilahi or Divine
of various socio-economic Monotheism and had
and political issues no temple or mosque,
resulted in hostilities. no scriptures or religious
books. Members were
Therefore it became supposed to look on
important to formulate Akbar as the pivot or the
a 'consensual religion' perfect man or Insan-i-
whose de facto authority Kamil. Din-i-Ilahi
lay with the emperor, who remained from its
in his divine wisdom, inception a socio-religious-
would guide the masses cum-political brotherhood.
both as a temporal and
spiritual head.

The problem was how to

make people accept it. The
emperor did not want it to
be an imposition. In March

37
A view of the imperial Harem complex,
with Maryam's House in the foreground
 f B he imperial Harem or Haram
K Sara was an enclosure where
_JL women of the royal household
lived in protected environs. It included
the Panch Mahal, Jodh Bai's Palace,
and what are known as Maryam's House
and Bubal's House. Each was connected
with the other by covered passages,
and screened off to the east from the
Daulat Khana or the imperial court
and treasuries.

39
The harem was also an women in the Haram
important institution of Sara, seems to be an
the state. The senior exaggeration.
queen in the emperor's Monserrate, the Jesuit
family was not only the priest, says that 'Akbar
mistress of the royal has more than 300
household, but also the wives, dwelling in
guardian of two of the separate suites of
seals of the realm and a rooms'.
farman or royal order
without the seal was Jodh Bai's Palace
ineffective.
or Principal
Akbar's mother, Haram Sara
Hamida Banu Begum
This was the residence
(1527-1604) was the
of a number of the
principal lady of his
emperor's principal
court. She was given the
wives, and not Jodh
title of Maryam Makani,
Bai's personal palace as Below:
literally 'of rank equal
often claimed. Zenana The facade
to Mary', and the
life was largely of Jodh Bai's
emperor sought solace
communal and this Palace
from her in his
difficulties and ad vice
on contentious issues.

Akbar married several

times, often due to
political exigencies and
it is believed that apart
from Muslim and
Hindu wives he also
had a Christian wife.
He was also the first
Muslim ruler in India
to permit his wives to
continue following their
faith within the
precincts of the harem.

The emperor extended

to the wives of nobles
and 'women of chaste
character' a singular
privilege - to dwell in
the Haram Sara for as
long as a month at a
time, with the purpose
of bestowing distinction
upon the family of the
women so invited. Abul
Fazl's contention that
there were some 5,000

40
complex, also known as private access from
Shabistan-i-Iqbal, was his Khwabgah to every
designed to provide palace in the Haram
space, both private and Sara.
shared, to women living
there. The palace appears
solemn and massive; the
It is the largest and balconies at the corners
most important of the allowed the residents a
buildings in the Haram view of the outside but
Sara having a single kept the interiors well
entrance, facing east concealed. The principal
across a wide paved entrance, once guarded
courtyard. From the by eunuchs, is double¬
entrance of the palace a storied. Jodh Bai's
screened viaduct ran Palace is a good place to
across the road behind study the different
Maryam's House; and architectural styles in
joined the top of the the buildings of
cloister facing the Fatehpur Sikri.
Daftar Khana. Through
it, Akbar had easy and

41
 :
■' ' . " w

i’
Left:
The ribbed
ceiling of
the upper
floor in
Jodh Bai's
Palace
Right:
The viaduct
from Hawa
Mahal to
Hathi Pol
contains the
only surviving
arabesque
screen in
Fatehpur Sikri

The bases, columns, and rows, is open; the

capitals in the central second is closed with
rooms are carved in the beautiful stone screens.
Hindu manner and the From the eastern and
plan draws inspiration western sides of the
from Rajput traditions central northern room,
as against the more staircases rise to the
Islamic pattern of other screened first storey.
buildings. The azure- Here the emperor was
blue ribbed roof of the wont to recline in fresh
upper rooms at the air with a few chosen
northern and southern ladies, secluded from
ends stand out among public eye.
the sea of dull and
weathered kiosks. One can walk across
from the Hawa Mahal
Against the northern to the Hathi Pol through
exterior wall of Jodh a screened viaduct
Bai's Palace is the Hawa which has the only
Mahal or Wind Palace. surviving arabesque
The first storey, stone screen in
supported on square Fatehpur.
columns in double

43
44
 Panch Mahal
(Badgir)
Panch Mahal is an
extraordinary structure,
entirely columnar,
consisting of four
storeys of decreasing
size, disposed
asymmetrically upon a
ground floor that
contains 84 columns, a
number regarded as
highly auspicious by
Hindus. The first storey
contains 56 columns; the
second, 20; the third, 12;
and the top storey is a
single, domed kiosk
supported on four
pillars, taking the total
to 176. Spend some time
on the first floor where
no two columns are "India's climate is
alike. Some are circular
with tiny blossoms gentle to stone if not
carved on them; others people and a modern
octagonal with fleur-de-
visitor could well be
lis patterns; some have
weaves around their persuaded that these
centres; and one carries intricate casket-like
a beautiful version of
the bell-and-chain motif. buildings, with their
elaborately carved
Panch Mahal is
stone ornamentation
modelled on the Persian
badgir or 'wind-catcher' still crisp and
and meant to mitigate unweathered, had
the intense summer
been completed only
heat. Yet it was unlike
the Persian original in yesterday'.
that it was not a tower
but built in diminishing - Bamber Gascoigne
stages. Also it had five The Great Moghuls
storeys, not the usual
three, and was screened
on all but the ground
floor. The Indian tower still in use all over
was probably open northern India, which
Left:
towards the private cool the air through the
Original
drawing of a garden on the west, and evaporation of the
column from screened in the hot water splashed
Panch Mahal weather with khas tattis, regularly over them.

45
Maryam's House or Rizvi believes that the
popular ascription of
Sunahra Makan this house to a
To the south-east of Portuguese queen of
Panch Mahal stands a Akbar called Marie is
severe looking building totally imaginary. There
known as Sunahra were two Maryams in
Makan, so called Akbar's court: Maryam
because of the beautiful Makani ('equal in rank
murals and gold to Mary') was Akbar's
coloured paintings that mother, Hamida Banu
once adorned it. It is Begum, and Maryam
now generally referred Zamani ('Mary of the
to as Maryam's House. Age') was his first
A pavilion on top Rajput queen and
softens the otherwise mother of his first-born
grim look of the son. Emperor Jahangir.
building. Stone eaves Since it is fairly certain
(restored in 1925-26) run that Maryam Zamani
around the building and lived in the main palace
are supported on heavy of the Haram Sara, it
brackets. Some of these may be safely presumed
are carved: one shows that Akbar's mother,
Rama attended by Maryam Makani lived
Below:
Hanuman, another a here. While travelling
Maryam's
pair of fat geese, clearly with the emperor her
House,
inspired by Hindu importance was popularly
imagery. acknowledged by known as
assigning her a central Sunahra
place in the camp. Makan

46
North-west of Sunahra Treasury building, and Above:
Makan is a small, within the Haram Sara The road
secluded garden laid enclosure was likely to from Hathi
Pol with the
out on the charbagh have been a guesthouse
rear-view
principle. In the middle for the high-born
of Nagina
of this charming garden women Akbar Masjid to
is a small fishpond. The admitted into his harem the right
water of this pond once for short stays. Arranged
Next Page:
ran out towards the in the form of a small
Original
south over a sloping caravanserai, it was drawing of
stone slab carved with a ideally suited for the the north
pattern called regular reception of elevation of
mahipusht, representing guests. Maryam's
the scales of a fish. House
To the left of Sunahra
Going back towards the Makan stands a plain¬
Hawa Mahal one enters looking red structure
the screened arches of popularly called Jodh
the Nagina Masjid. Bai's Kitchen. The
All Mughal palaces interior is finely carved
have a small private but ruined by smoke
mosque set aside for the from fires. Outside,
ladies of the imperial however, the greater
harem called by this part of the carving is
name. The one at excellently preserved.
Fatehpur Sikri is rather The finest part is the
plain and its decoration frieze of tassels
somewhat old- simulating a pelmet or
fashioned. valance. Rizvi calls this
building the Haram Sara
The building on the Offices.
western wall of the

47
48
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 Left:
The building
commonly
called
Birbal's
House

Below:
A detail from
the interior
of Birbal's
House

Birbal's House or The pilasters and

brackets, and parts of
Northern Palace of
the chhajja especially
the Haram Sara deserve notice. Each
pilaster is finely carved
Though Birbal was a
with a pleasant
colourful and influential
geometrical pattern
figure in Akbar's court,
while the bases are
scarcely could he have
typically Hindu, being
occupied a house in the
cut with a deep semi¬
middle of the zanana.
circle with a fan-like
This building was
halo around it.
definitely an integral
part of the Haram Sara,
its most probable
occupants being
Akbar's two senior
queens, Ruqayya
Begum and Salima
Sultan Begum.

The building represents,

at least stylistically, a
conjoining of the two
main architectural
traditions in India -
the Hindu and the
Islamic, but there has
been no attempt to fuse
or synthesise these
traditions. They are
simply placed together
in an elaborate medley.

Left:
Details of brackets showing
traditional Hindu influence
in Birbal's House

51
 *c_
. „ ' . ^* “ ;,7

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1 •" ;C-.^ »

• ;k: V,'§&
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 Lower Haram Sara the Kabutar Khana or
Pigeon House.
buildings
At the rear of the On the other side of the
principal Haram Sara, incline is a building
is a large colonnaded generally referred to as
enclosure. It has been the Filkhana or
variously called the Elephant House. But
imperial stables for these were more
camels, elephants or the probably lodgings for
emperor's choicest guards, either eunuchs
horses. or women.

However, it is doubtful Hathi Pol and

that a structure which Sangin Bur;
required for a crowd of
men passing in and out Hathi Pol gets its name
could have been placed from the two headless
Left: so close to the Haram elephants that flank the
The pavilion Sara. The place must gateway. The majestic
where maids instead have been elephants stand
who served allotted to the serving headless today because
the Haram maids of the ladies' of the holy zeal of
Sara are
palaces. The sanitary Aurangzeb who
supposed to
needs of the staff were decapitated them. They
have lived
met with a hammam were not sculpted but
Below: (bath) at the eastern end built of rubble faced
Inside view of the block. with stone slabs, which
of Hathi Pol
were then cut to form.
and Sangin
A massive, plastered
Burj or the
principal building with slightly Sangin Burj was also
Naqqar battered walls to the located here. It was the
Khana of east of Birbal's House is principal Naqqar Khana
Fatehpur supposed to have been of Fatehpur.

53
The vast expanse of the courtyard in the Jami Masjid complex
with Salim Chishti's dargah on the right

54
 mongst the earliest
monuments to have been
constructed in Fatehpur Sikri,
ihe buildings of the dargah complex
followed an architectural style that gave
expression to the religious ideology
Akbar relied upon in the early years of
his reign. The monuments reflect not only
Emperor Akbar's profound reverence for
Shaikh Salim Chishti, but are his
strongest assertion of imperial power
and dominance.

55
56
||gg|Mgi|
By placing Shaikh spaciousness. Around
Salim's tomb in the the edges of the
courtyard of the great courtyard are cells once
mosque, Akbar used for the
juxtaposed the popular accommodation of the
appeal of mystical Islam mullahs. Entering from
with an unambigous the Badshahi Darwaza,
affirmation of the the visitor sees before
orthodox Muslim him the majestic arch of
foundations of his the central prayer-
regime. The great chamber of the mosque.
congregational mosque To the left is visible the
is undoubtedly the most rear facade of the
dominant building in Buland Darwaza
Fatehpur Sikri. adorned with small
domed kiosks.
Badshahi Darwaza
Jahangir remarks in
Badshahi Darwaza Tuzuk-i-Jahangiri that on
projects from the wall the eve of holy days and
of the mosque in the important imperial
form of a half-hexagonal anniversaries, these
porch and is 13.2 metres kiosks were enveloped
wide and 18.6 metres in coloured cloth, and
high. Its two sides have lamps lit within. The
arched openings and a jewel-like marble tomb
similar archway tops the of the Shaikh is to the
entrance. Today it is the right. Further right of
entrance to the dargah the dargah is a red
complex closest to the sandstone structure
tourist parking lot. popularly referred to as
The actual gateway the Tomb of Islam
within is reduced to Khan, and behind these
human proportions by monuments is the small
an ingenious device and pretty northern
perfected in Iran in gateway of the Jami
previous centuries and Masjid complex.
also used in the Buland
Darwaza. On the south-east
corner of the courtyard
As one enters the great is a small well where
expanse of the once stood the great
courtyard (109.6 metre rainwater cistern or
by 133.5 metres) of the birka and in the centre
Jami Masjid, one is of the courtyard stands
overwhelmed by its a masonry tank of red
great dignity and sandstone.

Left:
Badshahi Darwaza or the
King's Doorway was used
by Akbar to join the
congregational prayers in
the Jami Masjid

57
 mosque was completed
Jami Masjid
in 1571-72. And given
Dominating the scene, Badauni's evidence that
and occupying the the building work took
highest point on the five years, we have an
ridge, the Jami Masjid is idea of the date of
the principal building commissioning of the
of Fatehpur and the great mosque.
vastest, spanning 133.6
metres north to south Akbar acknowledged Below:
The Jami
and 165.2 metres east to his deep gratitude and
Masjid was
west. According to respect for Shaikh Salim conceived on
inscriptions on either Chishti by ascribing the a scale larger
side of the central mosque to him. than any
archway of the prayer The Shaikh died on existing
chamber, the 14 February 1572 aged mosque in
construction of the 95 lunar years (92 solar India
years) and the great assigned to him
mosque must have been unlimited powers in
nearly complete before religious matters.
his death.
Although conceived on
Legend has it that the a scale larger than any
emperor himself often previous mosque in
swept the floor of the India, the Jami Masjid
mosque and called the follows the
azan. In 1579, he read conventional structure
the khutba, the prayer of a mosque - it
to proclaim his comprises an open
sovereignty, and also courtyard with pillared
issued the mahzar or cloisters on three sides
declaration from the and the western end
hallowed precincts of occupied by the
Jami Masjid that sanctuary.
The prayer hall has an •JJiw *Y« ><
arcade of pointed
arches, interrupted and -I# 5 *«***5 j * * *
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Above and Right:

Pillared bays in . v' *

Jami Masjid 95W

60
Wm0.

61
 Above:
To the right is the The flat roofs of the
Detail of the
mitnbar, a simple marble side halls are supported painted
structure of three steps, on corbels rather than interiors of
from where was read squinches. Jami Masjid
the Friday oration or the
khutba. Special orations Akbar seems to have
were also read on the absorbed this
occasion of Id-ul-Qurban architectural style from
and Id-ul-Fitr, the two Gujarat after his
great festivals of the conquest of that region.
Right:
Muslim calendar. This deliberate use of The pillars
Hindu structural forms around the
From either side of the in a mosque had not dargah are
central chamber, one been paralleled in quite unique.
can pass into the north northern India for 300 Serpentine
and south aisles years, since the early brackets
through three arched days of the Muslim spring from
the shafts
openings. The wings are advent produced
and the
divided into three halls, structures such as the spaces
each provided with a Quwwat-ul-Islam between the
central mihrab flanked Masjid next to Qutb curves are
by two smaller ones, Minar in Delhi or the filled with
embellished with Adhai Din ka Jhompra jalis.
Quranic verses. in Ajmer.

62
Shaikh Salim In the last years of his
life. Shaikh Salim
Chishti's Tomb Chishti abandoned his
The tomb of Shaikh cell besides the Stone
Salim Chishti is often Cutters' Mosque for a
described in new khanqah to the
superlatives. Percy north of Jami Masjid.
Brown has called the The tomb, raised where
tomb, 'an architectural the Shaikh's zawiya or
cameo, its chaste marble meditation chamber
forms being aerial in stood, was completed
their delicacy, so that it in 1580-81. The main
appears as a chiselled, structure is low,
polished and fretted consisting of a square
exquisiteness'. exterior, with sides of
7.2 metres, and a
mortuary chamber with
a diameter of 4.8 metres.

When the tomb was

constructed, the interior
and exterior was only
partly faced with
marble, while the
verandah and the dome
were of red sandstone.
Jahangir says that his
foster-brother,
Qutbuddin Khan Koka,
added the outer marble
screens, and paved the
ambulatory with marble
in 1606. In 1866, the
external transformation
of the tomb was
completed by veneering
the outside of the dome
with marble.

63
64
Passing through the
entrance, dim light
filters through two rows
of screens, the burning
fragrance of incense
sticks and shadows on
the cenotaph, evoke
even more powerfully
an aura of godliness.
Here the mighty
Mughal emperors and
their nobles bowed and
prayed with the same
respect and devotion as
the simplest peasant.

The burial of Sufis and

other holy men on the
very spot where they
led their austere lives is
a tradition that still
persists in India. Shaikh
Salim Chishti was
accordingly laid to rest
in a crypt beneath his
zaiviya; this was once
accessible by a flight of
steps but has been
walled up for over a
century now.

The marble screens

encircling the tomb
offer a sober yet delicate
pattern of hexagons
enclosed within an
interlacing eight-foil
ornament, which in turn
enfolds an elaborate
eight-pointed star. The
early morning sun,
striking the verandah
through the screens,
produces the most
beautiful shadow-
patterns, and an
ethereal light rarely
to be experienced
elsewhere.

Left:
Original drawing of the
painted spandrel inside
the dargah of Salim Chishti

65
Jamaat Khana that the building was
not originally intended
(Tomb of to be Islam Khan's tomb
Islam Khan) as it has been
commonly called, since
To the east of Shaikh
his grave does not
Salim's tomb is a red
occupy the central place
stone structure that
in the tomb.
originally served as
the Jamaat Khana or
Between Shaikh Salim's
common religious
tomb and the Jamaat
house for the most
Khana is another
distinguished disciples
archway. On entering
of Shaikh Salim. It is
this you find yourself
encircled by perforated
in a dark suite of rooms,
stone screens partly
known as Zanana
open to the front, and
Rauza or Women's
surmounted by a large
Tomb. Shaikh Salim
dome surrounded by
lived here for a while
36 small domed kiosks.
and women wishing for
an audience with the
It is conjectured that saint could visit him
after the death of from an underground
Shaikh Hajji Husain, an
doorway in the
eminent disciple of northern wall. Akbar
Shaikh Salim, the was also known to sit
Jamaat Khana became here with his favourites
the tomb of the Shaikh's and listen to the holy
descendants. It is clear man's discourses.

Khanqahs However, after Akbar

built the Jami Masjid,
Chishti khanqahs in the Shaikh moved to
India initially his new khanqah.
consisted of a single This new khanqah
hall with a thatched consisted of the
roof called the northern and eastern
Jamaat Khana. Open range of cloisters,
to all visitors, even the zawiya of the
Hindu yogis, all Shaikh and a Jamaat
aspects of Sufi life Khana for his senior
were conducted disciples. Santa -
within the precincts a musical rendition
of the hall. popularised by Sufis,
honouring God
Shaikh Salim and reaching
Chishti's first khanqah peaks of mystical
was located next to ecstasy - was held
the Stone Cutters' in a secluded hall
Mosque, while his at the back of the
family lived nearby. Jamaat Khana.

66
Chishtis Chishti of Karnal and
Shaikh Salim Chishti of
The Chishtis were a sub-sect Fatehpur Sikri.
of the Sufis. The word Sufi
is derived from suf or wool, The dargah of Khwaja
and referred to the flowing Muinnudin at Ajmer even
woollen robes worn by today draws large numbers
wandering mendicants. of pilgrims. The Khwaja
Sufism itself traced its who came to India at the
theoretical base to the end of the 10th century was
knowledge imparted by famous for his charity and
Prophet Mohammed called generosity and was lovingly
Ilm-i-Batin or renunciation called Khwaja Gharib
and absolute absorption in Nawaz by both Muslim and
the contemplation of God. Hindu disciples. Shaikh
This was in opposition to Salim Chishti of Sikri was
the Ilm-i-Zahir or given the title Shaikh-ul-
Knowledge of Rules as Islam by Emperor Akbar.
practised by the orthodoxy His prayers are said to have
of the mullahs. blessed the emperor with
several sons. The emperor,
The credit for establishing in gratitude, built the
and popularising Sufism in magnificent Jami Masjid in
India goes to Khwaja Sikri. To this day, childless
Muinnudin Chishti of women, both Hindu and
Ajmer. The Chishtis Muslim, frequent his dargah
accordingly became the at Fatehpur Sikri to pray for
most influential Sufi sect in an offspring.
India. Other famous Chishti
saints in the subcontinent
included Khwaja
Below:
Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki Devotees seeking Shaikh Salim
of Mehrauli in Delhi, Chishti's blessings have traditionally
Khwaja Nizamuddin Aulia tied threads to the jalis of
of Delhi, Bu Ali Qalandar his dargah
Buland Darwaza Buland Darwaza is an
imposing structure with
Buland Darwaza, or a height of 40 metres,
literally Lofty Gate, one added to which, the 12
of the monumental metres of steps leading
structures of Akbar's to it makes the entire
reign, has often been composition rise 52
described as his most metres above the road.
arrogant assertion of
imperial power. This In style it is somewhat
magnificent gate dissimilar to other parts
Below:
dominates the southern of Fatehpur Sikri.
Buland
side of the Jami Masjid Though it has many Darwaza
and is visible from a Hindu embellishments, or the
great distance. Tillotson says that 'its Lofty Gate

68
severe pointed arches dissonance, the architect
and simple geometry of took the same course as
basic form mark a with the Badshahi
return to the more usual Darwaza: the principal
approach of early arch stands in the midst
Mughal architecture - to of the three projecting
the style of Humayun's sides of an octagon
Tomb'. centered upon the apex
of the dome in the
To construct an entrance entrance hallway. The
of human proportions central projecting face
in a structure of such carries a great arch
vast height required while the faces looking
careful planning. south-east and south¬
To avoid any west on either side are

69
broken into three tiers. of the topmost point of
Crowning the whole is a the frame bearing down
handsome perforated too heavily.
parapet behind which
rises a range of kiosks. Decorated simply, the
plain red sandstone
Structurally, the design spandrels are framed
of the great archway can in white marble. At the
be divided into two apex of the central arch
aspects: the front facade is a flower-like
along with its portal and ornament inlaid in
the rear facade white marble, and a
consisting of a lower flattish rosette on either
and plainer portion, side. Within the three
which intrudes into the great cartouches are
main courtyard. The verses from the Quran,
front design provides in bold Naksh letters.
for the sheer immensity The lettering and
of proportions. Three carving are both
horizontal panels of buff exquisite. Right:
stone prevent an illusion lami Masjid

Recent Excavations at Fatehpur Sikri

Fatehpur Sikri is situated on from 1571 to 1585. Recently
the banks of an ancient lake in the compound of the
where several ancient sites Khwabgah, a red sandstone
were excavated by the storage jar has been
Archaeological Survey of identified with the help of
India. Birchhabili Tila, on contemporary sources and
the eastern bank of the lake has been partially restored.
was excavated during 1999- This jar measures 12 feet in
2000 to trace the pre-Babur height and 8 feet in diameter
history and archaeology of and has been mentioned as
the area. Abdar Khana (Ganga Sagar),
meant for storing water
A large number of Jaina from the river Ganga.
sculptures with inscriptions
were discovered along with The recent scientific
a unique sculpture of a clearance work conducted
Jaina Sruti Sarasvati at Anup Talao revealed an
(VS 1067/AD 1010) which underground corridor and
also bears an inscription on a chamber, suggesting the
the pedestal. A stone existence of a Kasana
fragment bearing two letters (cool place) which has been
in Brahmi script in Sanskrit mentioned in contemporary
language was also found at Persian records. These
the site. discoveries have added a
new chapter to the history
The Mughal ruler Akbar and archaeology of
shifted his capital to Sikri Fatehpur Sikri.

70
On the side of the Rizvi believes that
central archway, to the Buland Darwaza
right, as one passes celebrates the conquest
into the Jami Masjid of Gujarat. Akbar's
there is a famous lightning expedition to
inscription dated 1601, Gujarat in June 1573 to
partly in Persian and quell rebellion met with
partly in Arabic, immediate success.
announcing Akbar's On his triumphant
victory in Khandesh. return, Akbar renamed
Some historians Sikri, Fatehpur or
conjecture from this the City of Victory.
inscription that the According to some
Buland Darwaza was other historians, Akbar
constructed to demolished the existing
commemorate Akbar's main gateway of the
capture of Asir, mosque and raised the
Burhanpur and Buland Darwaza
Ahmadnagar that year. in its place.
 ( ayisitor standing at
a the top of the steps
-JL leading to the Buland
Darwaza, will see right ahead
the Jhalra or the rain-water
reservoir, its eight arcaded
sides, each 10.4 metres long,
lined with smooth red stone.
The colonnade of forty
columns which once
surrounded it has all but
disappeared. Once, young
boys used to dive into its
waters from the north-western
wall of the mosque for a
pittance. This practice has,
however, been banned.

An imposing hammarn,
called Zera Hammam,
supposedly built by Nawab
Islam Khan for public use,
faces the Buland Darwaza
and offers an attractive view
of the great portal.

72
73
 Outside the south-east Fazl became a member
wall of the Jami Masjid of the emperor's coterie,
are large but ruined the princes had already
vaults generally been allotted separate
believed to be the establishments. So, it
Langar Khana or public is possible that these
kitchen meant for houses were given to
feeding the poor. Abul Fazl and his
brother Faizi. These
Controversy surrounds houses are the best-
the actual occupants of preserved early Mughal
the quarters near the domestic buildings and
new khanqah of Shaikh contain some valuable
Salim to the north of decorative features.
Jami Masjid. They are
popularly referred to as To the west of Jami
the Princes' Nursery Masjid are some
because Akbar is said to historically interesting
have had them built for monuments which are
his infant sons, Salim not a part of the local
Left: and Murad, to give guides' itinerary but are
Langar them easy proximity well worth visiting.
Khana to the Shaikh. These include:
outside the
south-east
Some historians assign Stone Cutters'
wall of
these two houses and
Jami Masjid Mosque
the attached baths to
Below: Abul Fazl (1551-1602) Around 1565, the
Princes' and Faizi (1547-1595). quarrymen working the
Nursery
This seems unlikely as ridge for stone for Agra
popularly
Abul Fazl was Fort built a small
known as
Abul Fazl
presented in the court of mosque of five bays for
and Faizi's Akbar only in 1575. Shaikh Salim Chishti.
house However in 1580, when The dark red stone

75
Above: was quarried from is still inhabited by his
Stone Cutters' its immediate lineal descendants.
Mosque, one neighbourhood. It contains fine stone
of the oldest
The single cusped arch screens and has, on the
monuments
in Fatehpur of the present nine- first storey, two facing
Sikri, was arched facade, 18 metres pavilions with stone
built for long, is the central arch roofs carved in
Shaikh Salim of this mosque; behind herringbone patterns.
Chishti by it is a richly ornamented Though altered
local mihrab with a crude internally in 1810, the
quarrymen mimbar of five steps facade of the building
to the right. has been preserved.

Inside the Stone Cutters'

Rang Mahal
Mosque, are arched
recesses in the form of Akbar built this historic
horseshoes on either building in 1569, for the
side of the prayer- mother of Prince Salim
niches, and lamp-stands so that the queen could
of rustic appearance. spend the months of her
Such and other features pregnancy close to
show that the devoted Shaikh Salim Chishti.
builders were not all This beautiful building
expert stonemasons. was in private hands for
many centuries until it
Opposite the north-west was acquired by the
corner of the mosque, is Government of India
the door to the under Lord Curzon.
courtyard of Shaikh The south-western wing
Salim's House which of the building is a five
has been subsequently minute walk from the
rebuilt. Stone Cutters' Mosque
and ought to be visited.
The house, where the Both the northern and
Shaikh originally lived southern doorways are

76
 the mosque and the
Buland Darwaza.

Walking westward
along the edge of the
ridge, one comes to
Shaikh Ibrahim's
Mosque. Perched on the
very edge of the ridge,
its site is one of the most
striking in Fatehpur.

The facade which

resembles the Stone
Cutters' Mosque has a
most unusual feature in
that the mosque is not
aligned with the cjibla.
Above: finely worked, the Instead, it takes
Detail from floreate cuspings on the advantage of its
a pillar in arches proceed from the position to catch the
Rang Mahal cooling afternoon
open mouths of small
elephants. The principal breezes through
colonnade in the openings in the walls.
remaining wing has tall
double columns with
stylised peacocks' tail
Below:
bases. From the pavilion A view of the interiors
on the first floor, one of Rang Mahal,
gets a remarkable view used by Jahangir's mother
of the southern wall of during her pregnancy

77
 The waterworks down the
road from Hathi Pol

78
 J oing down a steeply
descending road from Hathi
Pol the visitor observes, to his
right, a group of rubble buildings topped
with low domes. A single deep well here
is flanked by two chambers in which
men once turned a treadmill which raised
the water.

A baoli or step-well lies to the right. The

northern and southern upper chambers of
the baoli have below their domed ceilings
great beams that took the upward thrust
of the revolving windlasses.

79
The windlasses were In the pavement east
turned by men, not of Daulat Khana is a
animals, who worked large stone tank. The
ceaselessly at them. tank was probably used
Other workers, standing to perfume the water,
on the roof emptied by mixing oils, essences
buckets on to the slope and fragrant herbs.
of the roof, which The scented water
conducted the water would have flowed on
into a water tower to the hammam, and
through an aqueduct. might even have been
carried in ewers to the
Next, the water was bath behind the
lifted from the storage Khwabgah.
well to an aqueduct
atop a rubble-built wall, Hiran Minar
and ran northward
towards Hathi Pol. In Further downhill from
the subsequent stage the Hathi Pol is Hiran
water was again raised Minar. Abul Fazl
to the bastion-like mentions that in all
building projecting from Mughal camps a lamp
the wall. It was then was lit on a tall pole and
drawn up to the roof of Hiran Minar might
the arcade between the well have been lit up at
eastern wall of Hathi night by small lamps.
Pol and the road. This Others conjecture that
brought the water the Minar was used to
roughly to the level of display hunting
the pavement of the trophies.
extensive minor Haram
Sara quarters. The tower is entered
through a flat-topped
On the northern side doorway, on either side
of the gateway it was of which is a blind arch.
raised a fifth time and The spandrel on the
emptied into several Minar is finely
channels. One channel decorated with a small
lead to the bath in what pattern of rosettes.
is called Maryam's
Garden, another to the From the kiosk on the
garden itself, and top, a spectacular view
another past the Wind can be had of the
Tower towards the palaces of the Haram
central Haram Sara Sara, the northern wall Right:
palace, where it would of Jami Masjid and the It is believed
have supplied the towering Buland that the
fountain in the centre Darwaza, and, over the tusk-like
of the court. Anup Talao now-dry bed of the lake, protrusions on
was also supplied from to the water-palaces. Hiran Minar
were used to
these waterworks, with
hang lamps to
the overflow going to light the way
Hauz-i-Shirin. for travellers

80
smmmOi

amOTi'»w'ai>oy,''TOvraa
Hada Mahal and Qush palace is popularly
Khana, are a long walk known as Qush Khana
away and are best or falcons' mews.
driven to.
The caravanserai shows
The former is a two- good workmanship and Below:
The
storeyed octagonal remains in a reasonable
caravanserai
baradari surmounted by state of repair. The
and the Hiran
a kiosk with very central court Minar beyond
slender columns, while surrounded by vaulted it, are visible
the latter, a red rooms is newly planted from the top
sandstone pleasure with pomegranate trees. of Hathi Pol
The corner suites are to the west is the
self-contained, built Samosa Mahal which
around a large gets its name from the
courtyard which is lit stuffed Indian pastry
from above. called samosa. The real
name and original
The red sandstone purpose of this building
house called Darogha's are unknown. The effect
House, on the western of the colonnade
end of the upper range around the triangular
of the ridge has painted courtyard is quite
interiors. On the slope interesting.

'..
 Hammams
The Romans are widely
credited with developing
public baths. This luxury of
the ancient world acquired
a new dimension when
combined with Muslim
religious sanctity: the Quran
lists several occasions when
its followers are called upon
to bathe themselves. Baths
or hammams thus became
an integral part of Muslim
city planning.

Hammams first came to India

from Central Asia during the
Sultanate period, but it was
only with the arrival of the
Mughals that the hammam
acquired a pronounced
importance in the social
fabric of medieval life.

Babur, the first Mughal

emperor, expressed, in his
memoirs, a disappointment
at the paucity of baths in It is said that Akbar spent
India. Remarking that 'baths three gharis (a little over one
were the means of removing hour) bathing and dressing
all three (heat, dust and hot and also that he had a
wind) inconveniences...', one portable bath fitted on an
of his first acts in India was to elephant to serve him when
issue orders for the he was travelling.
construction of baths.
The hammams at Fatehpur
Akbar and his nobles Sikri constitute what is
also placed an extraordinary probably the largest
importance on baths. surviving concentration of
This is documented by hammams in Mughal India.
contemporary historians At Fatehpur Sikri, one of the
including Abul Fazl who grandest and largest
considered hammams to be of hammams are the Hakims'
equal importance to Hammam. This majestic
benevolent institutions like structure with delicate stucco
khancjahs and madrasas, while work and golden paintings
Badauni says hammams were occupies an area 105 metres
second only to bazaars among by 78 metres, and was, in all
the public works of the probability, a part of the royal
emperor at Fatehpur Sikri. Haram Sara.

84
Above: mostly collapsed, while the
Exquisitely painted interiors hammams remain, bv and
of the Hakims' Hammam large, intact.

In Jahangir's time, it seems The construction techniques

the emperor gave private and interior decorations of a
audience in the ghusalkhanah, hammam were quite
an offshoot of the hammam. appropriate to the function
The English traveller Thomas of the building - painted
Roe, in fact, says that a interiors, tanks filled with
private meeting with the king cold water, and bubbling
in the ghusalkhanah was the fountains meant that even on
most opportune time to get a an oppressively hot day in
favour from him. the arid plains of north India,
one felt comfortable within
Archaeologists say that the its cool environs.
materials used in the
construction of hammams In winters, the reverse
were of better quality than became true: by filling the
those used for the houses of tanks with hot water, a
noblemen. And this is the person could escape the cold
reason why in Fatehpur Sikri and also enjoy a warm bath
the houses of noblemen have in the hammam.

85
 Baths and Well on come into view while
descending from Daftar
the Southern Side Khana. Containing some
The emperor's private of the finest specimens
baths (popularly of plaster art in
referred to as Turkish Fatehpur Sikri, these
Sultana's baths) are baths appear too grand
housed in a grim- to have been built by the
looking, plastered three Hakims of Gilan
structure east of the whose house lies above
Turkish Sultana's them to the north-east.
Pavilion. Scented water
came from the stone These were probably
tank connected with royal baths. They
northern waterworks, contain a dressing room,
while the main supply a steam room, and
was from the southern rooms for hot and cold
waterworks. On the plunge baths, two large
inside, the hammams are rooms probably for
plastered throughout; massage and a latrine,
dadoes in red, yellow, all finely plastered.
and greenish black on a
white background A well on the south-east
survive. There are fine corner supplied water,
patterns on the ceilings. which was carried up a
ramp by men with skin
bags or pulled up over a
Hakims' Hammam
pulley on stone piers
Right below the Daftar and emptied out on the
Below:
Entrance Khana lie the Principal roof, whence it flowed
leading to Court Baths also known into a vast masonry tank
Hakims' as Hakims' Hammam. within the building.
Hammam The domes of the baths

86
Shah Quli's Baoli Monuments of the
A deep well, octagonal, Southern Environs
with three galleried The area between the
storeys and two
modern town and the
windlasses lies further distant city walls was
south. Shah Quli (1601) once strewn with
is popularly believed to mansions and gardens
have built this step- of noblemen, pavilions,
well. Water was raised stables, caravanserais
from the baoli in five and bazaars. Most of
stages by the method these buildings have
used in the northern been reduced to ruins.
waterworks. Beyond
Daftar Khana, however, Between the Terha
the conduits have been Darwaza and the
obliterated. A branch Gwalior gate, stands an
may have led to the octagonal pavilion.
principal court baths. Tradition calls it Raja
Todar Mai's Baradari;
Sukh Tal no evidence beyond this
is known. The Raja
Sukh Tal (Sweet Tank)
(15157-1589) was
is 6.4 metres deep and
Akbar's financial
the largest tank in
adviser for over 25
Fatehpur. It lies
years, and introduced
opposite the principal
a number of
court baths and below
administrative reforms
Daftar Khana. Made of
of far-reaching
stone masonry, it has a
importance.
ramp ending in a flight
of steps.
Outside the Terha
Darwaza is one of the
Sikka Tal is a misnomer
prettiest spots in
given to it by those who
Fatehpur Sikri. Large
think Akbar's famous
and ancient tamarind
largesse of coins was
trees shade the road.
poured out here and not
Here stand the Mosque
in the Anup Talao.
and Tomb of
Bahauddin within a
This Sukh Tal must not
low enclosure wall.
be confused with the
Bahauddin was one of
much smaller Hauz-i
those employed to build
Shirin (also meaning
Fatehpur Sikri. Local
Sweet Tank) on the
legend gives him the
northern side of the
title 'overseer of the
Diwan-i-Am, near the
works'.
imperial kitchens.

87
Bahauddin must have sandstone and
acquired a comfortable important
fortune, though he architecturally because
seems to have had they show interesting
neither title nor rank developments in style
and calls himself chuna and decoration, different
paz (lime-burner) of from other buildings of
Emperor Jahangir. Fatehpur Sikri. The
dome on the tomb
Both the mosque resembles the one on
and tomb are of red Shaikh Salim Chishti's

88
tomb before it was the splendid silhouette
covered with marble of Fatehpur Sikri.
in the nineteenth
century, but lacks the To the right, on a ruined
elegance of the latter. platform, is the red
sandstone tomb of
Visitors who travel by Shaikh Musa, the
the Bharatpur road may brother of Shaikh
stop at Akbar's Terah Salim Chishti.
Mori barrage for an
unforgettable view of

89
PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Health Connaught Place and is

equipped with all modern
/0\ Your health during facilities; while Terminal 1
your travel in India is the old airport, basic but
depends on three efficient and is located
things: Precautions taken 12 kms away from the city
before arrival, day-to-day centre.
When to corns health care, and efficiency in
to India tackling emergencies. fVSosvey
The best time to Precautionary medication
come to India, Indian Currency
is the best bet against Indian currency is called
especially if you are
common ailments like the Rupee. It is available in
planning to visit Fatehpur
diarrhoea, dysentery and denominations of 1000, 500,
Sikri and Agra, is between
malaria. Malaria is a problem 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2, 1.
October and March. During
in India during the rainy One rupee equals 100 paise.
the winter months of
season. So, if you are coming Coins in common use are
December and January, the
at that time of the year, do those of Rs 5, Rs 2, Re 1
day temperature in the
consult your doctor for and 50 and 25 paise.
plains of north India is
precautionary anti-malarial The 20,10 and 5 paise coins
around 18°C (64°F) and
medication. While in India, have become redundant in
could go down
use mosquito repellent big cities, but they still have
to 4°C (39°F) at night.
ointment. value in smaller towns and
The summer months of May in rural India. Be careful not
If you are not already
and June are hot, and the to accept soiled notes.
vaccinated against Hepatitis B,
temperature can rise as high
get it done before travelling. Credit Cards
as 46°C (115°F). After the
scorching heat, the Those not accustomed to Credit cards are becoming
monsoons arrive towards the Indian conditions are usually increasingly popular in urban
end of June and the rainy vulnerable to stomach areas. All major international
season stretches till problems. It is advisable to credit cards are used - Visa,
September. seek qualified medical advice Amex, Mastercard.
before travelling and to carry
Before coming your own first-aid kit. Banks
to India Banks are open from 10 am
Delhi, and even Agra, have to 2 pm Monday to Friday
Visa many government as well as and 10 am to 12 pm
There are three kinds of visas privately run hospitals and
Saturdays. Banks are closed
for tourists. nursing homes. The on Sundays and national
government hospitals have holidays. Most international
1. The 15-day single/
modern medical facilities but banks have several branches
double-entry transit visa.
due to large patient turnout, in Delhi and Agra. Most
This visa is valid for 30 days
medical assistance is slow. banks, Indian as well as
from the date of its issue.
Arriving in Delhi international have installed
2. The 3-month multiple- ATM counters in various
entry visa. This visa is valid For the international central locations.
for 90 days from the date of traveller, Delhi is
first entry into India, which the closest entry- E-mail
must be within 30 days from point to Agra. The Delhi
the date of its issue. Internet and e-mail
airport is called the Indira access are easily
3. The 6-month multiple- Gandhi International Airport
available. There are
entry visa. This visa is valid (IGI). It has two terminals:
many cybercafes
for 180 days from the date of Terminal 1 for domestic
even in small towns
its issue, not from the date flights and Terminal 2 for
where for a nominal
of entry into India. international ones. Terminal
amount you can access
2 is located about 19 kms
the Net.
from the city centre at

90
 The internationally
renowned bird sanctuary, STD Codes
the Keoladeo Ghana Fatehpur Sikri 05619
National Park is situated
Agra 0562
here. Accommodation is
easily available in Bharatpur Delhi Oil
Only 237 kms from Delhi to suit all budgets.
and 37 kms from Agra,
The best months to visit Arriving by Air
Fatehpur Sikri, is a
Fatehpur Sikri, as indeed
fascinating destination for Agra airport at
any part of north India,
tourists, both Indian and Kheria is the
are October to March.
foreign. A veritable ghost nearest airstrip to
However early mornings
town, it has been so for over Fatehpur Sikri. It is 6 kms
and evenings remain
400 years now. The sudden from the centre of Agra
pleasant even in the
demise of the city within town. From the airport you
summer months.
14 years of its inception can book pre-paid taxis for
represents an enigma that Guided Tours the entire day (8 hours)
has never really been solved. which will include a trip to
ITDC runs a Package Tour
Its many extant monuments the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and
starting at 7 am from
are magnificent expressions Fatehpur Sikri (the charge
Connaught Circus in New
of a time when it was is 25 per cent more for
Delhi, which goes to Agra
peopled and alive. air-conditioned vehicles).
and Fatehpur Sikri, returning
Fatehpur Sikri is an hour's to Delhi at 9.30 pm. Air Connections
drive from Agra. So it is best Ph 011-3320331,3322386 Alliance Air has a direct flight
to book rooms in Agra where from Delhi to Agra four days
For tourists without prior
there are better places to a week; while Jet Airways
bookings, conducted tours
stay, and then proceed to has daily flights.
to Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and
Fatehpur Sikri where
Fatehpur Sikri are run daily Airlines Offices
accommodation is rather
by UP State Tourism in Agra
limited. In fact, a better
Development Corporation.
option would be to spend a Indian Airlines
Bookings and reservations
day in Agra, visit the Taj, the Hotel Clarks Shiraz
can be made at Hotel Taj
Fort and other monuments 54 Taj Road
Khema near Taj Mahal's
there and stop by Fatehpur Ph 360948
eastern gate.
Sikri the next day. From here Airport Ph 301180-84
you can proceed to Ph 330140
Bharatpur just 19 kms away. Jet Airways
Hotel Clarks Shiraz
54 Taj Road
Ph 360303, 267944
Tourist Information Centres
Agra Delhi
Arriving by Train
The Taj Express
UP Govt. Tourist Office UP Tourism Office
and the Shatabdi
64 Raj Road Ph 360517 Chandralok Building,
Express run daily
36 Janpath
Govt, of India to Agra from Delhi. The Taj
Connaught Place
Tourist Office Express, which leaves Delhi
Ph 011-3322251
191 The Mall at 7.15 am from the
Fax 011-3711296
Ph 363959/363377 Nizamuddin Station reaches
ITDC Agra at 9.50 am. This is best
UP Govt. Tourist Scope Building, suited to day-trippers on
Reception Counter Core 8, 7 Lodhi Road guided tours organised by
Agra Cantt Ph 011-4360303 the Government of India
Ph 364439, 368598
Fax 011-4360233 Tourist Office.

91
PRACTICAL INFORMATION

The tour operators pick Buses from Delhi's Sarai Where to Stay in
passengers up from the Kale Khan Inter State Bus Fatehpur Sikri
Agra Cantonment station Terminus (ISBT) are run on
and the tour itinerary an hourly basis to Given below are names
includes a visit to the Taj Agra.Similarly, there is an of a few hotels:
Mahal, Agra Fort and hourly bus service, through
Fatehpur Sikri, returning to the day, from Agra to Delhi Price range in rupees for
the station to catch the Taj from Agra's Idgah Bus a standard double room
Express for Delhi at 6.35 pm. Terminal. Frequent buses O Above 6000
(half-hourly) also leave Agra
Alternatively, if you have a @ 4000-6000
for Fatehpur Sikri and take
little extra time you can take 2500-4000
less than an hour. Most
the superfast train, Shatabdi
buses deliver visitors to the 0 1500-2500
Express, which leaves Delhi
main entrance and car park
at 6 am and sets off from 0 Below 1500
near the Buland Darwaza,
Agra at 8.18 pm. Cars are
from where the deserted
available for hire at the
city is a five-minute walk
railway station in Agra. Gulistan Tourist Complex
uphill.
With an early start, it is (UP Tourism)
possible to fit in Agra and While travelling down the Ph 882490
Fatehpur Sikri in the same highway connecting Agra to
Maurya Rest House
day. Flowever, this would Fatehpur Sikri and going
Ph 882643
make for a very tight visit. ahead to Bharatpur, you will
Some local trains also leave witness a strange sight - Rang Mahal Guest House
from Agra Fort and take an scraggly bears with their Ph 883020
hour to reach Fatehpur Sikri. equally impoverished
owners standing on the Hotel Red Palace
Railway Enquiry sides of the road. The Ph 882637
Agra Cantt Ph 131 muzzled bears are forcibly Goverdhan Tourist
Reservation 364519/364131 made to perform tricks to Complex
Agra City Ph 132 attract the attention of Ph 882643
Reservation 364163 tourists and earn the odd
buck for their stick-wielding
Arriving by lead owners. Please do not stop Important Road
your car, as this will Distances from
If you are driving
encourage these men to Fatehpur Sikri
to Fatehpur Sikri
continue making a living out
by your car/taxi
of a practice, which is Agra 37 kms
there are two routes you
barbaric, to say the least. Bharatpur 19 kms
can take-one is to go to
Delhi 237 kms
Agra and then proceed to Roadways enquiry
Fatehpur Sikri; the second
UP State Road Transport
route is via the by-pass just
after Mathura, which goes to
Corpn Where to Stay
Bharatpur (58 kms), from
Bus Stand, Idgah in Agra
where Fatehpur Sikri is 19
Ph 366124/367543
Amarvilas
kms. This road, however, UP State Road Transport Taj East Gate Road
is quite patchy and the first Corpn Taj Nagari Scheme
is a better option since a Bus Stand, Opposite Power Ph 231515
well-maintained eight-lane House Ph 364557 Fax 231516 Q
highway, National Highway
2, connects Agra and Rajasthan State Jaypee Palace
Delhi. The 200 km journey Transport Corpn Fatehabad Road
takes barely four hours by Sheetal Tourist Home Ph 330800
car. The traffic in Agra city Near Idgah Bus Stand Fax 330850 Q
itself can, however, be Ph 369420
rather chaotic.

92
Mughal Sheraton Atithi to buy-though a scattering
Fatehabad Road Fatehabad Road of shops behind the Jami
Ph 331701-728 Ph 330879-84 Masjid sell marble inlay
Fax 331730 Q Fax 330878 artefacts from Agra.

Taj View Amar Agra is also known for its

Fatehabad Road Fatehabad Road exquisite hand-woven
Taj Ganj Ph 331885-89 carpets, and zardozi
Ph 331841-59 Fax 330299 embroidery on garments as
Fax 331860 O well as leather goods. Food
Tourist Bungalow buffs can enjoy Agra's
Mansingh Palace (UP Tourism)
mouth-watering variety of
Fatehabad Road Station Road
sweet delicacies like petha,
Ph 331771 Raja ka Mandi gajak and popular salted
Fax 330202 Q Ph 350120/351720 snacks like dalmoth. Some
Clarks Shiraz Taj Khema of the major shopping
54 Taj Road (UP Tourism) centres/shopping complexes
Ph 361421 East Gate of Taj Mahal in Agra are:
Fax 361428 Q Ph 330140 • Sadar Bazaar
• Kinari Bazaar
Agra Ashok Where to Shop • Gwalior Road
6B Mall Road
Ph 361223-32 In Fatehpur Sikri there is • Mahatma Gandhi Road
Fax 361620 © nothing much for the tourist • Partap Pura
m

FURTHER REAPING

Ali, Mohammad, Holy Saint of Ajmer, Mitra, Swati (ed.), Speaking Stones: World
Mumbai, 1949. Cultural Heritage Sites in India, Delhi, 2000
Asher, Catherine B, Architecture of Mughal Nath, R, History of Mughal Architecture,
India, The New Cambridge History of India, Vol 1, Delhi, 1982.
New York, 1992. Okada, Amina, Imperial Mughal Painters,
Beale, Thomas W, An Oriental Biographical Paris, 1992.
Dictionary, Ludhiana, 1972 (Indian edition). Petruccioli, Attilio, 'The Geometry of Power:
Brown, Percy, Indian Architecture (Islamic The City's Planning', in Marg,
Period), Mumbai, 1997. Vol. XXXVIII No. 2.
Chandra, Satish, Medieval India, Delhi, 1990. Rose, H A, Religious History of Islam,
Gascoigne, Bamber, The Great Moghuls, Delhi, 1984.
Delhi, 1987. Rizvi, S A A, Fatehpur Sikri, Delhi, 1992.
Grover, Satish, The Architecture of India Sen, Geeti, Paintings from the Akbarnama,
(Islamic), New Delhi, 1981. Singapore, 1984.
Habib, Irfan, 'The Economic and Social Setting', Smith, V A, Akbar, The Great Moghul
in Marg, Vol. XXXVIII No. 2. 1542-1605, New Delhi, 1962 (Reprint).
Habib, Irfan, The Agrarian System of Mughal Srivastava, Ashirbadi, Lai, Akbar The Great,
India (1556-1707), Mumbai, 1963. Agra, 1979.
Koch, Ebba, Mughal Architecture, Delhi, 2002. Tillotson, G H R, Mughal India,
London, 1991.
Lowry, Glenn D, 'Urban Structures and
Functions', in Marg, Vol. XXXVIII No. 2. Zafar Hassan, List of Hindu and
Muhammadan Monuments, Vol II,
Mohammed, K K, 'Hammams (Baths) in
Calcutta, 1919.
Medieval India' in Islamic Culture,
Vol. LXIINo. 4, 1988.

93
GLOSSARY
azan call to prayer sounded by a muezzin Khwabgah literally House of Dreams;
before every namaz sleeping-pavilion of a Mughal emperor
badgir Persian name for tall tower designed khutba recitation; a discourse generally
to catch the breeze preached by the imam at the Friday
bagh garden prayer
baoli step-well kothi a house made of baked brick or stone
baradari pillared portico or pavilion; kotwali police checkpost
columned building madrasa a school, especially one associated
birka reservoir, cistern with a mosque
chahar suq bazaar crossing; an open mahal large house or palace; usually
square with four arched doorways or denoting a substantial structure.
gates at the intersection of two bazaar mansabdar literally rank-holder; one
streets or inserted in a single bazaar holding a mansab in the Mughul
street bureaucracy; loosely, a nobleman.
chhajja overhanging eaves mardana men's quarters in a palace or
charbagh four-fold garden; a formal Mughal house
garden mimbar pulpit in a mosque from where the
charpai string bed imam reads the khutba
corbels blocks of stone projecting from a mandala ritual drawings which represent
wall the cosmos; in architecture, a group of
cusp projecting point between small arcs of buildings arranged at cardinal points
an archway around a sacred central point
dado the finishing of the lower part of an mihrab niche or arched recesses in the
interior wall from floor to about waist western wall of an Indian mosque,
height towards which the worshippers turn
darbar the royal court; an audience for prayers
chamber Naskh Arabic script developed in the 10th
darwaza literally door, but generally century
denotes a large gateway, as in a city piers a supporting mass other than a
gateway column
engrailed foliated, cusped; an arch having qibla direction of Mecca to which Muslims
an arch within its curves turn in prayer
farman imperial orders stamped with the sahn courtyard in front of a house or
royal seal mosque
Hakim wise man; scholar; title given to sama song and music performed by
learned men Sufis intended to produce spiritual
hammam bath-house; consisting of a ecstasy
group of rooms for the various stages Shaikh an old and venerable man; a man
of the bathing procedure learned in Islamic law
haram 'forbidden (by religious law)' spandrel the triangular space between the
harem area where women of the Muslim curve of an arch and the square
royal household reside enclosing it
hauz tank squinch a device of arches placed
imam religious leader of Muslims diagonally at the upper angles of a
iwan large arched recess, especially one square chamber with the aim of turning
containing an entrance it into an octagon and then capping it
jalis literally net; perforated stone-screen with a dome
jharokha window embrasures talao a tank; generally provided with
khass tattis screens made from dry aromatic masonry steps
grass upon which water is sprinkled to zawiya meditation chamber of Sufi saints
cool rooms zanana women's apartments
khanqah common dwelling for
disciples of Sufi saints
khazana treasury

94
INDEX

A H
Abdar Khana 33 Hada Mahal 82
Abul Fazl 19, 31, 37, 40, 75, 80, 84 Hakims' Hammams 84-85, 86
Adhai Din ka Jhompra 62 Hakims' Quarters 16
Agra 6, 8,10,14 Hamida Banu Begum 40,46
Agra Fort 13,75 Hammam 53, 80, 84-85, 86
Agra Gateway 14-15 Haram Sara 20, 30, 35, 38-53, 80, 84
Ain-i-Akbari 16,37 Haram Sara's Offices 47
Ajmer 8,14, 62, 67 Hathi Pol 14, 20, 43, 47, 53, 78, 79, 80, 82
Akbar 6-11,13, 16, 19-23, 27-30, 33-37, Hauz-i-Shirin 16, 80, 87
40, 41, 46, 47, 51, 55, 57, 58, 62, 66-68, Hawa Mahal 43,47
70, 71, 75, 76, 84, 87, 89 Hiran Minar 14, 20, 78, 80-81,82
Ankh Michauli 28 Hujra-i-Anup Talao 24, 33
Anup Talao 24, 31,33, 34, 71, 80 Humayun 6
ASI Dak Bungalow 15,16 Humayun'sTomb 69
Astrologer's Seat 28
I
Aurangzeb 53
Ibadat Khana 26, 35
B Imperial Harem complex 38-53
Babur 6, 8, 71 Imperial Palace complex 18-35
Badauni 30, 33, 58, 84 Imperial Treasury 28,47
Badgir 45
Badshahi Darwaza 35, 57, 69
i
Jahangir 31,46, 57, 63, 77, 85, 88
Bahauddin 87
Jamaat Khana 66
Bharatpur 14, 89
Jami Masjid 8,14, 34, 54, 57, 58-62, 63,
Birbal's House 39, 50-51
66, 67, 68, 70, 74, 75, 80
Brown, Percy 27, 63
Jhalra 72
Bu Ali Qalandar Chishti 67
Jodh Bai's Kitchen 47
Buland Darwaza 10, 57, 68-70, 72, 77, 80
Jodh Bai's Palace 35,39,40-43
C
K
caravanserai 14,15, 80-81
Kabutar Khana 53
Chishti 54, 66, 67
Khanqah 63, 66, 75
D Khazana 16
Daftar Khana 34, 41, 86, 87 Khwabgah 24, 29, 30-31, 41, 71
Darogha's House 83 Khwaja Muinuddin Chishti 67
Daulat Khana 20, 23, 24-34, 39, 80 Khwaja Nizamuddin Auliya 67
Delhi 14, 62, 67 Khwaja Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki 67
Delhi Darwaza 14,15 Koch, Ebba 21
Din-i-llahi 37
L
Dinpanah 6
Lahore 6, 8,11
Diwan Khana-i-Khass 24, 29-30,31
Langar Khana 75
Diwan-i-Am 14,15, 22-23, 87
Lord Curzon 15, 76
Diwan-i-Khass 6, 24, 26-27, 34
Lowry, Glenn D 14
F
Faizi 75
M
Maktab Khana 29, 34
Father Monserrate 10, 29,31,40
Maryam Makani 40, 46
Filkhana 53
Maryam Zamam 46
Finch, William 14
Maryam's House 38, 39,41, 46-47
Fitch, Ralph 10
Mehrauli 67
G Mosque and Tomb of Bahauddin 87
Gascoigne, Bamber 45
Girls' School 33
H
Nagina Masjid 47
Gujarat 10, 62, 70.
GLOSSARY

azan call to prayer sounded by a muezzin Khwabgah literally House of Dreams;

before every namaz sleeping-pavilion of a Mughal emperor
badgir Persian name for tall tower designed khutba recitation; a discourse generally
to catch the breeze preached by the imam at the Friday
bagh garden prayer
baoli step-well kothi a house made of baked brick or stone
baradari pillared portico or pavilion; kotwali police checkpost
columned building madrasa a school, especially one associated
birka reservoir, cistern with a mosque
chaharsuq bazaar crossing; an open mahal large house or palace; usually
square with four arched doorways or denoting a substantial structure.
gates at the intersection of two bazaar mansabdar literally rank-holder; one
streets or inserted in a single bazaar holding a mansab in the Mughul
street bureaucracy; loosely, a nobleman.
chhajja overhanging eaves mardana men's quarters in a palace or
charbagh four-fold garden; a formal Mughal house
garden mimbar pulpit in a mosque from where the
charpai string bed imam reads the khutba
corbels blocks of stone projecting from a mandala ritual drawings which represent
wall the cosmos; in architecture, a group of
cusp projecting point between small arcs of buildings arranged at cardinal points
an archway around a sacred central point
dado the finishing of the lower part of an mihrab niche or arched recesses in the
interior wall from floor to about waist western wall of an Indian mosque,
height towards which the worshippers turn
darbar the royal court; an audience for prayers
chamber Naskh Arabic script developed in the 10th
darwaza literally door, but generally century
denotes a large gateway, as in a city piers a supporting mass other than a
gateway column
engrailed foliated, cusped; an arch having qibla direction of Mecca to which Muslims
an arch within its curves turn in prayer
farman imperial orders stamped with the sahn courtyard in front of a house or
royal seal mosque
Hakim wise man; scholar; title given to sama song and music performed by
learned men Sufis intended to produce spiritual
hammam bath-house; consisting of a ecstasy
group of rooms for the various stages Shaikh an old and venerable man; a man
of the bathing procedure learned in Islamic law
haram 'forbidden (by religious law)' spandrel the triangular space between the
harem area where women of the Muslim curve of an arch and the square
royal household reside enclosing it
ha uz tank squinch a device of arches placed
imam religious leader of Muslims diagonally at the upper angles of a
iwan large arched recess, especially one square chamber with the aim of turning
containing an entrance it into an octagon and then capping it
jalis literally net; perforated stone-screen with a dome
jharokha window embrasures talao a tank; generally provided with
khass tattis screens made from dry aromatic masonry steps
grass upon which water is sprinkled to zawiya meditation chamber of Sufi saints
cool rooms zanana women's apartments
khanqah common dwelling for
disciples of Sufi saints
khazana treasury

94
INDEX

A H
Abdar Khana 33 Hada Mahal 82
Abul Fazl 19, 31, 37,40, 75, 80, 84 Hakims' Hammams 84-85, 86
Adhai Din ka Jhompra 62 Hakims' Quarters 16
Agra 6, 8,10,14 Hamida Banu Begum 40,46
Agra Fort 13, 75 Hammam 53, 80, 84-85, 86
Agra Gateway 14-15 Haram Sara 20, 30, 35, 38-53, 80, 84
Ain-i-Akbari 16,37 Haram Sara's Offices 47
Ajmer 8,14, 62, 67 Hathi Pol 14, 20, 43, 47, 53,78, 79, 80, 82
Akbar 6-11, 13, 16, 19-23, 27-30, 33-37, Hauz-i-Shirin 16, 80, 87
40, 41, 46, 47, 51, 55, 57, 58, 62, 66-68, Hawa Mahal 43,47
70, 71, 75, 76, 84, 87, 89 Hiran Minar 14, 20, 78, 80-81, 82
Ankh Michauli 28 Hujra-i-Anup Talao 24, 33
Anup Talao 24, 31,33, 34, 71, 80 Humayun 6
AS1 Dak Bungalow 15,16 Humayun'sTomb 69
Astrologer's Seat 28
S
Aurangzeb 53
Ibadat Khana 26, 35
B Imperial Harem complex 38-53
Babur 6,8,71 Imperial Palace complex 18-35
Badauni 30, 33, 58, 84 Imperial Treasury 28,47
Badgir 45
I
Badshahi Darwaza 35, 57, 69
Jahangir 31,46, 57, 63, 77, 85, 88
Bahauddin 87
Jamaat Khana 66
Bharatpur 14, 89
Jami Masjid 8, 14, 34, 54, 57, 58-62, 63,
Birbal's blouse 39, 50-51
66, 67, 68, 70, 74, 75, 80
Brown, Percy 27, 63
Jhaira 72
Bu Ali Qalandar Chishti 67
Jodh Bai's Kitchen 47
Buland Darwaza 10, 57, 68-70, 72, 77, 80
Jodh Bai's Palace 35, 39, 40-43
C
K
caravanserai 14,15, 80-81
Kabutar Khana 53
Chishti 54, 66, 67
Khanqah 63, 66, 75
D Khazana 16
Daftar Khana 34, 41, 86, 87 Khwabgah 24, 29, 30-31,41,71
Darogha's House 83 Khwaja Muinuddin Chishti 67
Daulat Khana 20, 23,24-34, 39, 80 Khwaja Nizamuddin Auliya 67
Delhi 14, 62, 67 Khwaja Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki 67
Delhi Darwaza 14,15 Koch, Ebba 21
Din-i-llahi 37
i
Dinpanah 6
Lahore 6, 8,11
Diwan Khana-i-Khass 24, 29-30,31
Langar Khana 75
Diwan-i-Am 14, 15, 22-23, 87
Lord Curzon 15, 76
Diwan-i-Khass 6, 24, 26-27, 34
Lowry, Glenn D 14
F
M
Faizi 75
Maktab Khana 29, 34
Father Monserrate 10, 29, 31, 40
Maryam Makani 40, 46
Filkhana 53
Maryam Zamani 46
Finch, William 14
Maryam's House 38,39,41,46-47
Fitch, Ralph 10
Mehrauli 67
G Mosque and Tomb of Bahauddin 87
Gascoigne, Bamber 45
N
Girls' School 33
Nagina Masjid 47
Gujarat 10, 62, 70.

95
mmm
m I ™ ft# Sh Mm

Naqqar Khana 12,15, 53 Shaikh Ibrahim's Mosque 77

Naubat Khana 12,15 Shaikh Salim Chishti 8, 54, 55, 57, 58, 63,
65, 66, 67, 75, 76, 89
P Shaikh Salim's House 76
Pachisi 34 Sharma, Y D 26
Panch Mahal 39,44-45, 46 Sher Shah Sur 6
Princes' Nursery 75 Sikri 8,10,15, 67
Smith V A 70
Q Stone Cutters' Mosque 63, 66, 75-76, 77
Qush Khana 82
Sufi 8, 31, 65, 66, 67
Qutb Minar 62
Sukh Tal 87
Qutbuddin Khan Koka 63
Sunahra Makan 46-47
Quwwat-ul-lslam Masjid 62
T
R
Taksal/Karkhana 15,16
Raja Birbal 31, 51
Tansen's Baradari 15
Rang Mahal 76-77
Terah Mori 89
Record Office 29 Terha Darwaza 14, 87
Rizvi, S A A 15, 26, 28,35, 46,47, 70 Tillotson, G H R 26, 28, 68
Roe, Thomas 85 Timur 6, 20
Ruqayya Begum 51 Todar Mai's Baradari 87
Turkish Sultana's Pavilion 24,33, 86
S
Tuzuk-i-Jahangiri 57
Salim Chishti'sTomb/dorya/r 11, 63-65, 66,
69, 88 Y
Salim/Prince Salim 75, 76 Yatish Khana 16
Salima Sultan Begum 51
Samosa Mahal 83 Z
Sangin Burj 53 Zanana Rauza 66
Shah Quli 87 Zawiya 63, 65, 66
Shah Quli's Baoli 87 Ze-ra Hammam 72

96
 O Qutb Minar © Fatehpur Sikri
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©Agra Fort © Elephanta lansi
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Andaman &
Lakshadweep Thanjavur Nicobar Islands

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Chiraw;
Mahend

Mandawa Jhunjhunu
Narnaul
Fatehpur
Dundlod f Neeni

Nawalgarh

Nim ka Thana

Sikar

Didwana

Shahpura

Kishangarh

JODHPUR

M^JiNaharoarh Fort

Lishkar

AJMER

® Nasirabad
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Bharoti

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Panipat
Budhana

Khatauli
Sardhana

Baraut

Sonipatw* Baghpat
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Rohtak
Modmagar
Garhmuktesar

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Humayun’s
Qutb Minar Tomb

Kosla
Faridabad ®Bulandshahr

Sohna
Rewari Khurja

Palwal

Bawal

Khair

Hodal
Aligarh

WAR Brindavan
Govardhan athras

Mathura
riska

ALLAHABAD
Taj Mahal

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ftf / / Fatehpur Sikri
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Bayana

Dhaulpur* Ambah

Gangapur LEGEND

Qutb Minar (§) Heritage Site Morena

— Inter-State Boundary
—=—=— - Railway Line
1 NH ZZI National Highway
hhhbhhhimm Other Roads
GWALIOR
4 Airport
:onal Park
^Madhopur
 O Qutb Minar © Fatehpur Sikri
©Humayun's
TaiwK
(3 Ajanta
— Tomb
Hisar
© Taj Mahal O Ellora

© Agra Fort O Elephanta lansi

DELHI ~v
On©
Agra©0

®Khajuraho
Sanchi®
KOLKATA®

Konarak Bhiwa
®Patiadakal
®Hampi

BANGALORE
®CHENNAI
Maniallapuram®
Andaman &
Lakshadweep Thanjavur
Nicobar Islands

Churu Pilani

Chirawi
Mahend»

Mandawa Jhunjhunu

Fatehpur
Dundlod f Neem

Nawalgarh

Nim ka Thana

Sikar

Didwana

Shahpura

Kishangarh

JODHPUR

feS^Nahargarh Fort

Sanganej

ushkar

AJMER

MNasirabad
alpura

Bharot

ban AS

Eicher Goodearth Limite

 World Heritage Series

FATEHPUR
SIKRI
Fatehpur Sikri was built by Akbar as his
imperial capital but was suddenly abandoned
after 14 years. The complex houses a range of
palaces and pavilions built in the Mughal
architectural style and for a variety of
purposes.

There is a story attached, often not strictly true,

to almost all the buildings in Fatehpur Sikri;
but this only adds to the charm of the place.
Turkish Sultana's Pavilion, Jodh Bai's Palace,
Birbal's House are superb examples of Akbar's
fusion style of architecture.

Among the other buildings at Fatehpur Sikri,

the Diwan-i-Khass with its intricately-carved
central pillar, the pyramidal Panch Mahal and
the imposing Buland Darwaza deserve special
mention.

Visitors are advised to stay the night at

Fatehpur Sikri to fully savour the medieval
city's splendour and to watch the peacocks
dance in the faint light of the early morning.

Kasturi Gupta Menon

Director General
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA

Forthcoming Guides:

# Agra Fort G Hampi

# Ajanta Caves % Khajuraho

# Brihadisvara Temple % Konarak
# Elephanta Caves % Mahabalipuram
# Ellora Caves 9 Pattadakal

# Goa: Churches & f* Sanchi

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Conceptualised & designed by

Good Earth Publications, Eicher Goodearth Limited, New Delhi, 2002