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The Basics of Testing A Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor

This document provides instructions for testing a mass air flow (MAF) sensor using a digital multimeter. It explains that MAF sensors can produce either an analog voltage signal or a frequency signal, and both can be tested with a multimeter. The document then gives detailed steps to test the power, ground, and signal circuits of a MAF sensor, using a 1994 Nissan D21 pickup as an example. It describes how to check for 12 volts on the power circuit, check the ground circuit, and monitor the sensor's voltage signal at idle and under acceleration to determine if it is functioning properly.

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17K views

The Basics of Testing A Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor

This document provides instructions for testing a mass air flow (MAF) sensor using a digital multimeter. It explains that MAF sensors can produce either an analog voltage signal or a frequency signal, and both can be tested with a multimeter. The document then gives detailed steps to test the power, ground, and signal circuits of a MAF sensor, using a 1994 Nissan D21 pickup as an example. It describes how to check for 12 volts on the power circuit, check the ground circuit, and monitor the sensor's voltage signal at idle and under acceleration to determine if it is functioning properly.

Uploaded by

bro
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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The Basics of Testing a Mass Air

Flow (MAF) Sensor


A MAF sensor can be tested without a scan tool. How? With a digital multimeter. Yes, a
digital multimeter can be used in testing the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor. This
test is almost but not exactly the same for all types of MAF Sensors. So, what's the
difference?
The biggest difference between MAF Sensors is the output type of the MAF Sensor's
Signal to the ECM (Fuel Injection Computer). This signal may be an Analog Voltage
Signal or a Hertz Frequency Signal. Both types can be tested with a multimeter! Ok,
now where do you start?
You can start here, 'cause this site is full of specific MAF Sensor Testing articles to
address the specific vehicle you're working on.
MAF Sensor Tests are available for the following makes: Buick, Chevrolet, Ford,
GMC, Isuzu, Mazda, Mercury, Lexus, Nissan, Oldsmobile, Toyota, Volkswagen,
and Volvo.
Below is a complete example of a MAF Test as it applies to a 1994 Nissan D21 Pick Up.
So if you want to take a look at how simple and easy a MAF Sensor Test can be, read
on!!
If you want to skip this article and go directly to this site's index of MAF Sensor Tests,
click on the link that says 'See full list of Makes...' on the Box titled Mass Air Flow
Sensor Tests on the right of this page. This is the second from the top box.

Example of MAF Sensor Test


The most common symptoms of a BAD MAF Sensor are:
1. A MAF sensor code.
2. Lean and/or Rich code(s).
3. Fuel Trim code(s).
4. A tremendous lack of power upon acceleration.
5. Black smoke coming from the tail-pipe.
6. Vehicle may idle rough and stall.
As stated before, the Mass Air Flow Test is a very easy and simple test but there are
a couple of things that have to be done first.
The most important thing to do first, is to make sure your MAF Sensor isn't
contaminated with dirt and/or oil, since the tests in this article assume the MAF sensor
isn't contaminated. Why? Because this MAF Sensor is a hot-wire type that easily
becomes contaminated with dirt and stuff from the air filter not performing its job.
Cleaning this type of Sensor is easy since the hot-wires are clearly visible to the eye
(with the sensor removed).
This contamination will cause the sensor to produce a lower reading to the ECM
(Engine Control Module = Fuel Injection Computer). The most common symptom of this
contamination is a hesitation or a time-lag in engine responce that is felt after the
accelerator pedal is depressed. As stated in the list at the beginning of this article, other
symptoms may include but are not limited to: higher tailpipe emissions and diagnostic
codes that may illuminate the "Check Engine" light.
If cleaning the MAF Sensor, use an electronics spray cleaner to do it with. This in itself
may solve your problem. Don't use carb or brake clean spray. These solvents can
damage the sensor. Also, don't attempt to physically clean the sensor with anything.
Check your local autopart store, they will have MAF Sensor cleaning spray.
After having checked for contamination the other things that you must check for (and
eliminate if present) are:
1. That the engine does not have any vacuum leaks.
2. That there are no ignition system misfires. A misfire condition will skew
the results of the test you'll perform here.
If the above conditions exist, repairing them first will more than likely solve your
vehicle's drive-ability issue without having to test the MAF Sensor, if not continue with
the MAF Test in this article.

THE MAF TEST


OK, you're gonna' start by checking the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor basics. These
are 12 Volts and Battery ground to the MAF Sensor. After that, we'll test the actual
performance of the MAF Signal as the engine is running. Use a digital multimeter for all
tests where a multimeter is called for.
The MAF sensor produces an analog voltage signal. At idle with the engine at its normal
operating temperature, the MAF sensor produces a signal of 1.0 volts to 1.7 volts. The
MAF Sensor's operating voltage range is from .0 to 5 volts.
The MAF Signal's voltage is directly related to amount of air the engine is breathing.
Common sense tells us that the engine will breathe in more air at 2500 RPMs than at an
idle of 900 RPMs.
So keeping this in mind, the Voltage value on the multimeter will be greater at 2500
RPMs than at 900 RPMs
Now, when testing this voltage signal, the important thing to know is not an actual volts
number at a specific RPM, but to look for crazy and extreme fluctuations in the voltage
signal that do not correspond to the actual air intake (RPM's) of the engine. For
example: If at Idle the voltage reading starts to spike up and down without you
accelerating the engine.
In the TEST 3 section of this article, I'll show how you'll use a base voltage reading at
idle from the MAF Sensor that will help you to confirm that the MAF Sensor is bad or
not.
Lastly, these tests are not designed to diagnose an intermittent problem with the MAF
sensor. They are designed to diagnose a hard fault with the sensor.

TEST INFO: A Description Of The Circuits

To effectively test the MAF Sensor, we


need to know what each wire does in
the MAF sensor connector.
The safest way to test these circuits, and
the method I always use, is using a wire
piercing probe. (click here to see a picture
of this tool). Using this probe, I don't have
to disconnect the MAF Sensor's connector
to probe the front of the female terminal
and possibly risk damaging it.
Independent of the method you use, be
careful not to damage the wire or the
female terminal. Take all safety precautions.
IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove or disconnect the
mass air flow sensor from the vehicle or from its plumbing.
As you've already noticed, the photo (above) has the MAF Connector lettered A thru' C.
If you take a close look at the MAF Sensor, you'll see these same letters on it too. I'll be
using these letters for the circuit descriptions. Here's the description of each circuit
below.
 Letter A- 12 Volt battery power.
 Letter B- MAF Signal.
 Letter C- Ground. Provided by the ECM internally.
We're ready to get started...

Testing the Power


Circuit of the Mass Air Flow Sensor

The very first thing that we'll do is check that the MAF Sensor is receiving 12
volts. Again, the procedure I recommend to use (to accomplish all of the tests below) is
to use a test probe that pierces thru' the wire's insulation (click here to see a picture of
this tool). DO NOT insert anything into the female terminal.
Whatever method you use, the key here is not to damage the female terminal or the
wire. Again, be careful. Use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions.
1. Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode.
2. Do not disconnect MAF Sensor Connector from the MAF Sensor.
3. With the RED multimeter test lead and an appropriate tool, probe the MAF
Sensor Connector's A circuit as shown in the photo.
4. With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe BATT (-) negative terminal.
5. Turn Key On with the engine Off.
You should see 12 Volts on the multimeter. Do you have 12 volts?
CASE 1: Your multimeter registered 12 Volts All is still good in the neighborhood. Go
to Test 2.
CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts The MAF sensor is not the
problem. Without power in this circuit, the MAF sensor will not work.

How to Test The


MAF Sensor's Ground Circuit

In the previous test we checked that the Sensor was receiving 12 Volts.
Now we'll check that the MAF sensor is getting a good ground. This ground is
provided by the ECM internally.
Be careful and take extreme care not to short-circuit this wire to ground or power as
you're probing it.
You can test this circuit with the connector connected to MAF Sensor or not.
1. Turn key to the OFF Position.
2. Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode.
3. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire-piercing-probe, probe the
MAF sensor connector's C circuit as shown in the photo.
4. Connect RED lead to the BATT (+) positive terminal.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position.
You should see a voltage of 12 Volts. Do you have that?
CASE 1: Your multimeter registered 12 Volts All is still good in the neighborhood. Go
to Test 3.
CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts The MAF sensor is not the
problem. Without a ground in this circuit, the MAF sensor will not work.

Testing the MAF


Signal of the Mass Airflow sensor!

Now that the basics have been checked,we'll check the MAF signal coming out of
the sensor and going to the ECM with a multimeter. Here's how to do it...
Start the engine and let it reach it's normal operating temperature. You'll be using the
voltage reading you will obtain at idle as a base to diagnose the MAF sensor.
The MAF Sensor must be connected to its connector to perform this test.
1. With the key in the OFF position.
2. With a suitable tool connected to the RED multimeter lead, probe
the Bcircuit of the MAF sensor connector shown in the photo.
3. Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode.
4. Connect the BLACK lead to the battery (-) Negative Terminal.
5. Start the already warmed up engine.
6. Note the Volts reading on your multimeter at idle. This reading may be
stable (with only small fluctuations) or unstable with very extreme
fluctuations. No matter what the instability in the reading, this will be your
base reading.
7. Accelerate the engine as you watch the multimeter's voltage readings.
8. The voltage numbers should correspond to the amount of acceleration.
9. Repeat this as often as you need to verify that the voltage numbers on the
multimeter rise smoothly every single time.
10. If the MAF sensor is good, these readings will not spike up and down
crazily but will correspond to the amount of air the engine is breathing at
the different RPMs you're accelerating the engine to.
Did the signal rise smoothly with each increase in engine acceleration and stay steady
at idle?
CASE 1: Your multimeter registered the indicated voltage The MAF Sensor is
functioning correctly.
CASE 2: Your multimeter DID NOT register the indicated voltage The MAF Sensor
is defective. Replace MAF sensor.

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