Modular Hydroponics System
Modular Hydroponics System
By jarpische in Gardening
The inspiration for this project came when I was searching for a DIY hydroponic tower,
and I was unsatisfied with all of the results. I wanted a hydroponic tower which was
able to be any height, and not require the entire structure to be 3d printed.
My design is based on a single 4 inch PVC pipe, using 3d printed cups and cup holders.
This design allows me to take advantage of 3d printing for mounting each of the plant
cups, without having to waste material, money, and time 3d printing the rest of the
tower.
The STL files needed are attached, and have also been posted to thingiverse.
Attachments
hydrponic_tower_top.stl
hydrponic_tower_top_adapter.stl
PVC_plantcup.stl
PVC_plantcup_holder.stl
water_diverter_top.stl
- Hand Drill
Materials:
- A length of 4 inch PVC Pipe. This will be the eventual height of your tower.
- Silicone Sealant. (Make sure you get a fish safe one if you are doing Aquaponics). I
recommend GE Silicone 1. (Pictured)
- Some Growth Media. I am currently testing out using River Pebbles (Pictured), I will
report back as to how well these work
- PLA Filament
Begin printing the plant cups and holders as soon as possible, You will need one of each
for every hole that you want, so you will need a lot of them. My tower (5ft) uses 33 of
each, for a max capacity of 33 plants.
You will need to play with your print settings in order to get the plant cups to print well.
I recommend if you are experiencing stringing on the plant cups to double the retract
distance in your print settings.
I recommend the following method for drilling the holes into the pipe (for the
configuration above):
1) Measure the circumference of the pipe, and mark the circumference divided into 6
equal sections. (For 4 inch pipe (4.5 inches OD), this should be about 2.35 inches)
2) Extend your markings the length of the pipe using a straight edge, lying the pipe
horizontally on a flat surface.
3) Mark the vertical spacing of your plants. In each column of plants, the cups are
spaced 8 inches apart. Be sure to offset every other row down 4 inches, so that the cups
end up staggered, as shown in the picture.
4) Pilot drill each of the markings with a 1/8 inch drill bit.
The pipe is attached to the bucket using the 5/16-18 threaded rod.
I recommend:
1) Drill the pipe with 5/16 inch through holes, so the threaded rod can pass all the way
through. These should be placed with 2 each at 9, 9.5 and 10 inches from the bottom of
the bucket, with the holes across from each other at the the same level.
2) Drill the bucket with 5/16 inch holes spaced around the outside of the bucket, again
so that the threaded rod can pass all the way through. The holes should be placed with 2
each at 10, 10.5 and 11 inches from the bottom of the bucket (outside), with the holes
across from each other at the same level.
4) Align the pipe and bucket holes (the pipe will not be touching the bottom of the
bucket), and insert the threaded rod into each. This may be tight if the hole placement
was not perfect.
Attach the 1/2 inch clear tubing to the Water diverter, it should be a snug fit. If it is a
little loose, hold it in place with silicone sealant.
Drop the tubing down through the tube, and thread it through a hole near the bottom.
(you may want to drill a separate hole to do this.) Attach the tube to the pump in the
bottom of the bucket.
Drill 3-6 holes for #6 screws near the top of the tower, in line with the plant cups, and
attach the water diverter by screwing into the screw mounts, through the outside of the
tower.
2) Add the Grow media to each of the cups. I am using River Pebbles, you could also
use clay beads or a media of your choice.
3) Add some plants that have been started either in rockwool or on cotton balls.
5) You're Done!