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HOW TO BUILD A
WENDY HOUSE

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How to build a Wendy House Standard version

Copyright Notice:
Copyright © . All rights reserved. No part of this content may be reproduced in any form or by any
means, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the owners.

Disclaimer:
Although all due care is taken, no responsibility is accepted for any wrongful information,
omissions, or any other irregularities in this content. This project is to be undertaken at the users
own risk.

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Table of Contents
.........
.........
. . . . . of
Table . . contents
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 03
............
. . . . . . . . . . .About
Introduction, . . . . . the
. . .lumber
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 04
............
. . . . plans:
The . . . . . Side
. . . . elevation
. . . . . . . .and
. . . front
. . . . .elevation
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 05
............
. . . . floor
The . . . . and
. . . .frame
. . . . .cutting
. . . . . list,
. . . .Instructions
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 06
............
. . . . base
The . . . . and
. . . .the
. . .floor
. . . .(including
. . . . . . . .the
. . .floor
. . . .plan)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 07
............
The
. . . . wall
. . . frames
. . . . . . .(including
. . . . . . . the
. . . plate
. . . . .and
. . . stud
. . . .layout
. . . . . plan)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 08
............
. . . . roof
The . . . .frame
. . . . . (including
. . . . . . . .a. roof
. . . . detail
. . . . . plan)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 09
............
. . . . roof
The . . . .blocking
. . . . . . .and
. . . purlins
. . . . . .(including
. . . . . . . .a. detail
. . . . . plan
. . . .and
. . . legend)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 10
............
. . . . wall
The . . . and
. . . .roof
. . . .cladding
. . . . . . .(including
. . . . . . . .a. detail
. . . . .plan
. . . .and
. . . cutting
. . . . . .pattern)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Page
. . . . 11
............
.The
. . . roof
. . . .trim
. . . and
. . . .the
. . .door
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 12
............
The window and the handrail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 13
............
. . . . materials
The . . . . . . . .list
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 14
............
Some user contributed photos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 15
............
Some user contributed photos . . . . . (continued)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
. . . . . 16
............

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Introduction

The Wendy House.

A Wendy house is basically a playhouse with a few
feminine touches added. With a little imagination,
customized touches can be added to your Wendy
house to create a unique and special environment
that can provide children with hours of enjoyment!
This house stands 78" high, is 92" long and 48" wide
with an additional 28" wide deck along the front.

About the lumber.

The lumber sizes referred to in this project are the finished or 'actual' sizes.
The floor base is constructed of 1 1/2"x 5 1/2" treated lumber. The floor is 3/4"x 3 1/2" deck
boards.

Note: Alternative size deck boards. Alternative size deck boards can be used such as 5/4" x 6"
or 1 1/2"x 3 1/2" - whatever the size just ensure that there are enough boards to cover an area of
50 sq ft.

All the framing is 1 1/2"x 2 1/2" lumber (ex 2x3) with the exception of the ridge beam which is 1
1/2"x 3 1/2" (ex 2x4). The posts also are 1 1/2"x 2 1/2" lumber.

Note: Alternative size framing lumber. All the framing lumber referred to in this project is 1
1/2"x 2 1/2" lumber which is dressed (surfaced) 2x3. If this stock size is not available in your area,
then use 1 1/2"x 3 1/2" (ex 2x4) lumber but make any necessary measurement adjustments.
Alternatively rip 1 1/2"x 5 1/2" (ex 2x6) lumber in half to obtain the 1 1/2"x 2 1/2" stock.

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The Elevation Plans

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The Floor and Frame Cutting List.

[a] 1 1/2" x 5 1/2": edge joist; 2 @ 92" long.
[b] 1 1/2" x 5 1/2": common joist; 5 @ 73" long.
[c] 3/4" x 3 1/2": decking boards; (random 175ft of).
[d] 1 1/2" x 2 1/2": bottom plate; 2 @ 87" and 2 @ 48".
[e] 1 1/2" x 2 1/2": top plate; 2 @ 87" and 2 @ 48".
[f] 1 1/2" x 2 1/2": stud; 18 @ 45".
[g,h] 1 1/2" x 2 1/2": blocking and misc; (random 50ft of).
[i] 1 1/2" x 2 1/2": ridge beam support; 2 @ 19 1/4".
[j] 1 1/2" x 3 1/2": ridge beam; 1 @ 92".
[k] 1 1/2" x 2 1/2": common rafter; 10 @ 32 3/4".
[l] 1 1/2" x 2 1/2": lean-to rafter; 5 @ 36".
[m] 1 1/2" x 2 1/2": lean-to rafter support; 5 @ 5 3/8".
[n] 1 1/2" x 2 1/2": lean-to beam; 1 @ 92".
[o] 1 1/2" x 2 1/2": post; 3 @ 48"

The Instructions
Step one: The pieces
Cut all the pieces to the lengths as given in the cutting list above.
The common rafters [k] have a 45° cut at each end.
The lean-to rafters [l] have a 10° cut at one end and a 55° (off square) cut at the other end.
The lean-to rafters supports [m] have a 10° cut at one end and a 45° cut at the other end.
All the other pieces are square cut.

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Step two: The base and floor

On a level, flat piece of ground make a rectangle by nailing the two edge (longer) joists [a] to two
of the common (shorter) joists [b].
Nail another three intermediate common joists [b] in place evenly spaced (see floor frame plan
below). Use 4" galvanized nails.

Check that the floor base is square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner. When the
diagonals are equal, then the base is square.

Cut as many of the decking boards as possible to the full deck length of 92" and lay and fix them
to the floor frame.
Any shorter lengths or off-cuts must join over a joist.

Important! When laying the decking boards, ensure that there will be
a 3/8" gap (between the decking boards) along the front of the wall
frame to take the bottom of the cladding (siding). See the image.

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Step three: the wall frames

Lay out the bottom plates [d] flat on the floor to form a rectangle 48" x 92". Lay the top plates [e]
on top of the bottom plates and mark the stud positions on the edge of both plates (see the plate
and stud layout diagram below).

Separate the plates [d] & [e] and lay the studs [f] in place. Cut and fix blocking [g] between
studs [f] as shown in 'the plans' diagram.
Nail the wall frame together.
There will be four wall frames in all, the two end frames and the front and back frame.

Stand the frames up in place and nail together. Ensure the bottom plates are straight and fix to
the floor.

Check all corners are vertical (plumb) and fix temporary diagonal braces to the insides of the wall
frames.

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Step four: the roof frame

Centralize the two ridge supports [i] on top of the two end frames and fix in an upright position.

Balance the ridge beam [j] on top of the ridge supports [i] and fix in place with nails skewed
(angled) through the ends of the ridge beam into the supports.

Fix the 10 common rafters [k] in place (5 each side) beginning with the end rafters and then the
intermediates.

Fix the lean-to rafter supports [m] in place at the lower end of the top rafters [k]. (See diagram
below.)

Fix the lean-to rafters [l] in place on top of the lower rafter supports [m], and so that the top of
the lean-to rafters [l] are at a point 12 3/4" up from the bottoms of the top rafters [k]. (See
diagram below.)

Nail the beam [n] to the end of the lower rafters.

Fix three posts [o] plumb under the beam [n]. One post in the middle and one at each end.

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The cladding (siding) and fascia

Step five: Blocking and purlins
From 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" lumber, measure, cut and fix two rows of blocking [p] between the lean-to
rafters [l], one row across the top and one row across the middle as shown in diagram below.

Also using 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" lumber, fix two rows of purlins [q] on top of the front common rafters
[k]. Position as shown in diagram below, with one row at the apex and one row just above the
lean-to rafters [l].

LEGEND: (see the cutting list for timber sizes).

a: joists f: studs k: rafters p: blocking

b: joists g: blocking l: lower rafters q: purlins
c: decking h: blocking m: rafter support s: ridge capping
d: bottom plates i: beam support n: lean-to beam S1: rear & side wall cladding
e: top plates j: ridge beam o: posts

R1: lean-to roof cladding

S2: front wall cladding
R2: back roof cladding
R3: front roof cladding
S3: gable wall cladding

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Step six: The wall cladding

From six full 48" x 96" x 9/32" sheets of
plywood cut the individual pieces required
to cover the walls and roof.
Refer to the 'Plywood sheet cutting detail'
image for the size of the individual pieces.

Note: You can use 3/8" thick plywood if

you want something a bit more substantial.

Fix the wall panels in

place so that the
bottoms finish 3/8"
below the bottom
plate. The front
panels will need to be
checked (marked and
cut) around the lower
rafters [l]. Mark and
cut out any windows
(you might want to do
a fancy shape here),
doors or overhanging
edges. Nail with 2"
flathead galvanized
nails. Keep the door
cutout intact, as this
will later become the door.

Next hold the gable side panel [S3] in place on top of the sidewall panel [S1], mark to the
triangular shape of the gable, cut and fix in place. Insert a length of galvanized horizontal
weather-strip flashing so it tucks under the bottom of the gable side panel [S3], and over the top
of the sidewall panel [S1]. See diagram.

Step seven: The roof cladding

The roof plywood panels [R1], [R2] and [R1] can be fixed in the same way as the wall panels.
The roof panels will overhang the perimeter (front, back and sides) by approximately 2".

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Step eight: The ridge capping, fascia and barge board

The ridge capping, fascia and barge board are (in this case) all the same type of timber, namely
1" x 4" sawn (rough sawn) treated lumber.

The ridge capping is the board on the ridge of the roof and its purpose is for waterproofing. The
fascia and barge board are the boards encompassing the house at the top of the walls tucked
under the roof cladding overhang.
The board along the front and back of the house is called the fascia board and the board running
up the gable on the sides of the house is called the barge board (rake board).
Fix all with 3" galvanized nails.

A pattern can be cut into the fascia and barge board and the shape used is solely a matter of
personal preference.

A pattern like this can be made on the fascia and barge boards by using the bottom of a paint tin
(or similar) as a template to mark the rounds and then by cutting out with a jigsaw.

Step nine: The door

The cut-out piece of plywood saved from the door hole can now
be made into the door. Trim the bottom edge (about 3/4") to
ensure the door will easily open, and sand the edges. There
should be about 1/4" clearance both sides of the door.
Reinforce the door with 1" x 4" wood nailed to the back.

Hold the door in place with packers and wedges and screw on
the hinges. See diagram.

Nail a piece of doorstop (1"x 1") down the doorjamb stud, 1

9/32" (the thickness of the door) in from the outside. This acts
as both a doorstop and wind and weather seal.

A preferred door handle / lock / or latch can be fitted.

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Step ten: The windows

Draw a window pattern such as an oblong, heart or 4 squares (keeping
within the perimeters of the window frame) and cut out with a jigsaw. First
drill a hole through the plywood using a drill bit large enough to make a
hole that will accept the jigsaw blade.

Once the windows are cut out, cover with an oblong piece of 1/8" acrylic
sheet (plastic glass). Ensure the acrylic sheet is larger than the window
holes to allow for waterproof mastic sealant and screwing.

The tops of the acrylic sheet on the sidewalls should tuck under the existing flashing.

A trim can be fixed around the window.

Step eleven: The handrail

Cut the 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" top and bottom rails to length (to fit
between the posts) and rebate them (cut a channel along the
centre of each piece).

On one side only, pencil two lines 1" apart along the length in
the centre of the rails.(See handrail detail diagram). Set the
blade on your circular saw to a depth of 3/4" and do repeated
cuts along and between the two pencil lines.
Clean out with a chisel.
This will give you a rebated groove 1" wide x 3/4" deep along
the centre of the rails.

Cut 1x6 lumber into 22 1/2" lengths and implement a pattern of your choice.
The pattern shown in the handrail detail diagram is just one idea.
Make the pattern on one piece of board and use that as a template to do the rest.

Fit the boards into the rebated grooves in the top and bottom rails.
This is best done by laying the top and bottom rails on the ground and then inserting the boards
into the grooves.
If the number of boards does not work out exactly, one of them will need to be marked and ripped
(cut) lengthwise.
When one section is finished, tie a rope around each end so the boards will not fall out while that
section is being installed.
Nail each section in, and fix the rails to the posts with 4" galvanized nails.
Do this to all 3 sections. All Done. Eazy with a z.
Have fun!

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Materials List
● 1 1/2"x 5 1/2" stock for floor joists. 60ft of
● 3/4"x 3 1/2" stock for decking. 165ft of
● 1 1/2"x 2 1/2" stock for framing. 365ft of
● 1 1/2"x 2 1/2" treated stock for posts. 14ft of
● 1 1/2"x 3 1/2" stock for ridge beam. 8ft of
● 1 1/2"x 3 1/2" treated stock for handrail. 20ft of
● 1x6 treated stock for handrail. 65ft of
● 1x4 stock for fascia, barge board, ridge capping and door backing. 60ft of
● Galvanized horizontal weather strip flashing. 8ft of
● 1/8" thick acrylic sheet (plastic glass) for windows. 16 sq ft of
● Assorted nails, mastic sealant, hinges, door handle.

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Some user contributed photos

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How to build a Wendy House Standard version

Some user contributed photos (continued)

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