Make Your Own Electrocardiogram (Ecg) : Technology (/technology/)
Make Your Own Electrocardiogram (Ecg) : Technology (/technology/)
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By JasonU14 (/member/JasonU14/)
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E
This is not a medical device. This is for educational purposes only, using simulated
signals. If using this circuit for real ECG measurements, please ensure the circuit and
the circuit-to-instrument connections are utilizing battery power and other proper
isolation techniques.
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If you don’t know what an ECG is, it is simply a recording of the heart’s activity. Due
to the electrical nature of the heart’s contractions, one can record the change in
voltage by placing electrodes on the skin and processing the signal. The plot of these
voltages over time is called an electrocardiogram (ECG for short). ECGs are typically
used to diagnose various forms of heart failure, or passively monitor patient stress. A
healthy ECG has speci c features that are universal between humans. (This includes
a P-wave, Q-wave, R-wave, S-wave, T-wave, and a QRS complex.) I've provided a
simpli ed diagram of an ECG with the corresponding reaction of the heart.
Note that each electrical event occurring in the heart’s nerves corresponds to a
physical event that occurs consequently in the muscle tissue, and while one part of
the heart is contracting, the other portions are relaxing. In this way, the timing of
electrical signals is very important in the heart, which makes an ECG a very powerful
tool in measuring heart health.
For us to record an actual ECG however, many logistical issues come into play such
as the size of the signal, the amount of noise coming from the rest of the body, and
the amount of noise coming from the environment. To compensate for this, we are
designing a circuit that will be composed of 3 parts: a differential ampli er to
increase the size of our signal, a low pass lter to eliminate high frequency signals
noise, and a notch lter to remove 60 Hz noise that is always present in buildings
supplied with AC power. I will describe watch of these steps in detail to you below.
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Step 2: Gather Your Supplies
For this project you will need:
(I used the UA741 with +-15 V, just make sure that ones you choose can handle 15
volts otherwise you will need to adjust the values of your passive components and
you’ll have to settle for less ampli cation)
- Resistors
o 2x 165 ohm
o 3x 1k ohm
o 2x 15k ohm
o 2x 33k ohm
o 1x 42k ohm
o 2x 60k ohm
- Capacitors
o 2x 22nF
o 2x 1μF
o 1x 2Μf
If you just got a breadboard for your birthday and are looking to try make something
cool with it, do at least a few simpler builds before you try this out.
I've included a schematic of the setup. The circuit in the picture should amplify your
signal ~1000 fold. You may need to adjust this depending on the type of op-amp
you decided to use. A quick way to adjust this is by changing the value of R1. By
cutting the value of R1 in half, you will double the output gain and vice versa.
I assume that most of you can translate this circuit onto the breadboard, nonetheless
I’ve included a diagram of the breadboard setup to streamline the process and
hopefully reduce your troubleshooting time. I’ve also included a picture of the UA741
(or LM741) pinout for your convenience. (for your purposes you won’t need pins 1,5,
or 8) The V+ and V- pins on the op-amp will be connected to your +15 V and -15 V
supply respectively. -15V is not the same as ground! You can ignore the capacitors
on my breadboard. They are bypass capacitors meant to remove AC noise, but in
retrospect weren’t worth the effort.
Now that we can amplify our signal, let’s look at cleaning it up. If you hooked up
electrodes to our circuit right now, it would likely have a ton of 60 Hz noise. That
because most buildings are wired with 60 Hz AC current causing inevitably large
noise signals. To remedy this, we will build a 60 Hz notch lter. A notch lter is
designed to attenuate very speci c frequencies and leave other frequencies
untouched; perfect for getting rid of 60 Hz noise.
-
As before, I’ve included a picture of the circuit schematic, breadboard setup, and my
own circuit. As a note, while the notch lter is a relatively easy stage to build, it took
the longest for me to get working. My input was being attenuated well, but at 63 Hz
instead of 60 Hz, which won’t cut it. If you run into the same problem, I recommend
that you change your value of R14. (Increasing resistance of R14 will lower your
attenuation frequency and vice versa). If you have a variable resistor box, use it to
replace R14, then toy with resistance values to nd out exactly what works best, as
it will be sensitive to changes in on the order of single ohm. I ended up with a 175
ohm R14, but in theory it works best to match R12.
Again, you can test this stage by using a function generator to input a 60 Hz sine
wave and record your output on an oscilloscope. Your output should be about -20
dB or 10% the amplitude of the input. As I said before, you can check nearby
frequencies for optimization.
I don’t have any sage advice on the low-pass lter, it’s very simple compared to the
other stages. Similarly to the ampli er, don’t worry about getting a precise cutoff at
80 Hz; this is not crucial and won’t realistically happen. Nonetheless, you should
check its output by using a function generator. As a rule of thumb, a sine wave
should go through the lter untouched at 10 Hz, and should be cut in half by 130
Hz.
In case you are unsure of how to put on electrodes, I recommend sticking the input
electrodes on your wrists (one on each wrist) and connecting a ground electrode to
your leg (the picture may help.) As a reminder, each input electrode should go a
positive input on the op-amps in the ampli er. (It is only grounded in the circuit
diagram for simulation purposes)
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Hey! Can you please explain how the differential amplifier has a gain of 1000? I seem to be
getting a value much much higher than this when I calculated it.
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