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BUILDER BASICS
By Aaron Skinner

Model glue FAQ

How it works and how to work with it

A
lthough modelers increasingly Cement should be applied to both surfaces palette or a piece of glass and use a tooth-
use super glue and epoxy, the as they are joined. pick to transfer it to the parts.
basic tool for connecting one Because of the chemical process, plastic
plastic part to another remains solvent cement can only be used to join What’s the secret of
good old solvent-based cement, sometimes plastic to plastic. If you are working with liquid cement?
called model or plastic-airplane glue resin or metal, use super glue or epoxy. Also, The first time I used liquid cement was a
because the process physically changes plas- revelation, and I haven’t looked back since.
How does glue work? tic, it can be dicey around clear parts; add It’s easy to apply and provides a strong
Speaking chemically … actually, let’s not them with white glue or clear-part cement. bond. Many brands supply a built-in brush,
get too technical. But knowing how glue but most are too big, 2. I use a fine brush to
works helps understand how to use it. Should I use tube glue? apply liquid cement, 3.
Most of us got started squeezing thick I don’t use it often, but I keep tube glue Don’t try to brush glue along both sur-
stuff out of tubes onto our fingers, work- handy. It’s thicker and takes longer to set, faces, then push them together; the solvent
bench, and possibly the mating surfaces of which means more time to adjust the posi- will be gone before you finish and no weld
parts. Watching others and advancing our tion of the parts, and it’s easy to apply a lit- will form. Instead, hold the parts in place,
skills, we learned how to discretely in a little tle dot without it flowing away. But be load the brush with cement, and touch it to
liquid cement. warned, the longer plastic cement stays liq- the seam, 4. There’s no need to brush the
Formulations and consistencies differ, uid, the longer the solvent is active. It can glue along the joint; capillary action will
but glue works the same way: The solvent in damage thin, delicate parts if left too long, pull the thin liquid into and along the gap.
the cement dissolves, melts, or softens — so use it sparingly. Also, some tube glues Both sides will be affected by the solvent.
pick your verb — plastic on either side of produce strings of cement that will etch any On short joints, one brush load will work.
the join. As the solvent evaporates, the plas- plastic they touch, 1. For long ones, like a fuselage, touch the
tic hardens and welds the pieces together. To use tube glue, squeeze a little onto a brush to the seam several times, 1-2" apart.

48  FineScale Modeler  July 2016

 1 2
Tube glue stays put and can be applied with pinpoint accuracy on a Most brushes in liquid cement bottles are too big and hold too much
toothpick or pin. But it can be stringy and messy, so take care using it. cement for accurate applications.

3 4
For fine work without the mess, use a No. 0 brush. I prefer long bristles If possible, apply liquid cement from the back side of a join as on this
because they hold a little more cement. F-15 ejection seat. That hides any blemishes from view.

5 6
A gentle squeeze of the Testors Liquid Cement container produces a Before completely pushing together the halves of an M48 gun, I
thin bead of solvent along mating surfaces on Tamiya’s M48A3 turret. generously apply liquid cement to the seam.

If you like the extended working time take hours to set completely and remain Professional Plastic Welder, and Squadron
and extra power of tube glue, but crave the tacky and workable. Some work only on Plastic Weld, which evaporate quickly. That
neatness of liquid cement, several manufac- certain types of plastic. Knowing the differ- means less working time but also less time
turers package thin cement in small plastic ences helps you choose the right kind. bracing parts as they dry and minimal risk
bottles with a built-in applicator. The glue Some, such as Tamiya Cement and Mr. of damaging delicate parts. Need an instant
is easily dispensed onto joining surfaces, 5. Hobby Mr. Cement, are noticeably thick on bond between parts you are holding
It doesn’t evaporate immediately, giving the brush. Others, like Testors Plastic together? Try Tenax-7R.
working time and a strong bond. Cement, are low-viscosity but take longer In the middle are glues like Tamiya
to set. All give you more working time; the Extra Thin Cement and Microscale Micro
Are all liquid glues the same? latter works especially well for joining indi- Weld which, as Goldilocks might put it, are
No. Liquid glues are not created equal. vidual-link tank tracks, as the parts remain “just right.” Intermediate drying times
Some are thick and viscous, others are thin flexible for 30-45 minutes — perfect for make them ideal for general construction.
and flow like rubbing alcohol. Some evapo- forming them around running gear. Check glue labels and kit instructions
rate within a matter of seconds and make At the other extreme are Plastruct’s for the types of plastic used and the cement
seemingly instantaneous bonds. Others Bondene and Plastic Weld, Micro-Mark recommended.

www.FineScale.com 49
 7 8
A few seconds later, I squeeze the halves together, which forces liquid Scraping the bead of hardened plastic off the barrel produces a nearly
plastic out of the seam. Then I leave it to harden. perfect seam that requires little or no cleanup.

9 10
Gah! That’s not where I wanted that glue to go. Resist the urge to wipe … because you’ll only make it worse, spreading the damage, and
the spill away … leaving fingerprints.

11 12
To enhance the texture on Tamiya’s M48A3 turret, I softened the surface After a minute, I stippled the softened plastic with an old stiff brush.
with Testors Liquid Cement. Here, the coarse bottle brush is an asset. Another application of cement will soften ridges and peaks.

Is it possible to fill seams? Let it dry. Then you can scrape and sand tion at a time, brush a little slow-setting
Super glue is better known as a filler, but the bead from the seam, leaving smooth cement onto the model, 11. After letting it
solvent cement can eliminate seams in sty- plastic underneath, 8. It’s perfect for gun set for a minute, stipple the soft plastic with
rene. Hold the parts together and flow barrels, fuselages, and hulls. a stiff brush — don’t use one of your good
medium-setting cement into the join, 6. ones — to produce a cast texture, 12.
Wait a few seconds for the solvent to do its I made a mistake. What now? A little liquid cement can smooth rough
thing, then squeeze the parts together, 7. If you get glue where you don’t want it plastic resulting from sanding.
That should force a bead of molten styrene because you slipped, sneezed, or are genu-
out of the gap. inely clumsy like me, don’t try to wipe it Should I handle glue with care?
away, 9. You’ll make things worse by Solvent glues have harmful vapors and
More at www.FineScale.com spreading the solvent and marring the plas- should be used in a well-ventilated space. If
To view techniques on how to use various tic, 10. Instead, let the solvent evaporate, you can smell the glue, you’re inhaling the
glues for constructing your models, visit then repair the blemish. stuff. Avoid eye contact or swallowing.
FineScale.com/videos You can take advantage of the solvent’s Most are flammable, so keep them away
action to texture surfaces. Working a sec- from flames. FSM

50  FineScale Modeler  July 2016

 | COVER STORY |
How to work with
photoetched
metal Stop fretting and bend your way to better models • By Aaron Skinner

P
hotoetched metal used to be the province of the
aftermarket — packages of metal frets designed to Photoetched-metal safety
enhance a kit if you were feeling adventurous.
Nowadays, more and more kits include photoetched- Photoetched metal is thin and can be very sharp, so use caution when
metal parts in the box, sometimes as alternatives to handling. The parts can take unpredictable flight during removal from
plastic pieces. Increasingly, the metal parts are the only the fret, so always wear eye protection. Also, consider wearing something
option, forcing modelers to confront the unique nature on your feet to protect against piercing injuries from dropped parts.
and techniques involved in using them. On a less serious note, super glue will bond to skin more quickly than
I have a love-hate relationship with photoetched metal. There’s a good chance you’ll stick yourself to parts or the model.
metal. The fine metal parts do a better job than plastic Keep debonder handy to get out of a sticky situation.
or resin of replicating thin objects such as armor plates,
engine grilles, and straps. But those advantages are Eye protection and
often counterbalanced by fiddly parts that are difficult debonder are essen-
to handle and attach. Their true purpose, seemingly, is tial safety precau-
to drive me crazy! tions when working
But all my frustration melts away when the planets with sharp pho-
align and everything goes as planned. toetched metal. And
The truth is you needn’t be intimidated by pho- keep a few adhe-
toetched metal. Sure, it involves different skills and sive bandages
tools than those used for plastic parts. But the basic around to stanch
techniques are easily mastered. What follows is an any bleeding!
introduction and overview of those techniques.

24  FineScale Modeler May 2013

What is photoetched metal?
The process begins with thin sheets of metal — usually brass or a sticky, rubber-like material, 2. (The same kind of process cre-
steel, but I have seen copper and aluminum — coated with a ates fine circuit boards and is used in jewelry-making and met-
photosensitive material. An image of the part to be produced is alwork.)
projected onto the plate and exposed to light, altering the pho- Modern photoetching can create relief detail, such as panel
tosensitive coating after it is dipped in a developer solution. dials and vent louvers, along with scores to help make folding
An acid bath eats away some of the metal, usually leaving the parts easier, 3.
parts attached by thin strips of metal to a frame known as a fret, Other advances include self-adhesive and prepainted parts,
1. Sometimes the parts are left completely separate, attached to like those from Eduard, 4.

Many photoetched- A few manufactur-

metal parts, like ers, such as Fotocut,
these in a set from etch the parts com-
Profimodeller, come pletely, leaving them
attached to a fret by attached to a flexi-
fine strips of metal. ble backing. They
come away easily
when pried with the
tip of a knife.
1 2

Refined etching Eduard produces

techniques allow for many detail sets
scored lines where with color, making
parts need to be cockpit detailing
folded, and relief easier for those on
etching, such as the tight deadlines or
control panel detail without the steady
on ParaGrafix’s hands for painting
Colonial Viper such minute parts.
3 Mk.VII cockpit. 4

Part preparation
Photoetching is a chemical process, which means there is likely chemical residue left on the parts. Just like plastic parts, it’s a good
idea to clean the parts before construction to promote glue and paint adhesion. Due to the delicate nature of the parts, it’s best
clean them while they are still attached to the fret.

To clean pho- Don’t scrub the fret;

toetched metal, more than likely
place the fret in a you’ll snag, bend,
shallow container of or break the tiny
lacquer thinner or parts. Don’t clean
alcohol. Gently agi- prepainted or self-
tate the container adhesive parts, as
for a few minutes, you will likely mar
then remove the fret the finish or weaken
1 and let it air dry. 2 the glue.

I’ve also heard of Before you cut any-

modelers who dip thing off the fret,
photoeteched-metal study the instruc-
parts in vinegar for tions for the kit and
a few minutes. The photoetched details;
mild acid may make notes about
lightly etch the sur- what you need to
face, making paint do differently. I typi-
stick better. cally highlight areas
3 4 of concern.

May 2013  www.FineScale.com 25

 Removing parts

1 2 3
I remove most parts with a sharp hobby knife. Nothing dulls an edge faster than metal, so Avoid using a soft surface like a cutting mat,
A curved edge, like a No.10, works well and keep extra blades handy if you need to do a because applying pressure will bend the part
tends to hold its edge longer because you can lot of cutting. To cut the connectors, I place the rather than cut the attachment.
use more of the cutting surface. But a standard fret on a hard surface, such as glass or tile,
No.11 blade does the job, too. then press the blade through the strip as close
to the part as possible.

4 5 6
Photoetched-metal parts are light and tiny, Gently pry the part from the Post-it note using Alternatively, place the fret inside a zipper-
and they will take wing during removal if you a hobby knife. Tape can be used, but I find it closing plastic bag, such as those designed for
aren’t careful. To avoid spending a lot of time too sticky — increasing the risk of damaging food storage. Cut through the bag to remove
on the floor under your workbench with a the part while removing it from the tape. the part; it will remain inside until you are
flashlight, place the fret on the sticky section of ready to use it.
a Post-it note. Lightly press the part into the
adhesive before cutting it from the fret.

7 8 9
No matter how close to the part you cut, there Don’t go across the edge or you may bend the Hold small parts with tweezers to remove the
will be a stub at the attachment point. With part. In most cases, it will only take a couple attachment-point nub.
bigger parts, simply run a sanding stick or file of swipes to clean up the part.
along the edge. FSM author Karl Logan rec-
ommends a small whetstone.

26  FineScale Modeler May 2013

Attaching photoetched metal

1 2 3
Super glue is most commonly used to attach To attach photoetched metal, hold the part in Accelerator will speed drying, but it can also
photoetched-metal parts. Standard solvent place and run thin super glue into the join with craze plastic or ruin paint.
cements work by melting the plastic on both a fine applicator like a toothpick. Capillary
sides of a join and welding them together, so action will pull the glue into the space, and it
they won’t work to attach metal to plastic. should set up pretty quickly.

4 5 6
For small parts, you’ll need to hold the part in Some parts are better attached with thick, I hold small parts in tweezers, barely touch the
tweezers to locate it. But be careful when slow-setting super glue. It will hold the piece joining edge to a small puddle of thick super
applying super glue to avoid permanently on the surface as it sets, but it gives you time glue, then maneuver it into place. Again, be
affixing the piece to the jaws. Speaking of to fine-tune alignment and location. careful around the glue so you don’t perma-
tweezers, don’t squeeze the part too hard or it nently join the part to the jaws.
might squirt out like a bar of soap.

7 8 9
Clear-part cement and white glue thinned with I’ve had good luck using Aleene’s Tacky Glue. Clear gloss coats, including Pledge Future floor
water are useful for attaching parts when you It turns sticky enough to hold the part in place polish, work for small, flat parts. Apply a little
don’t want to mar the surface. Hold the part in within seconds, but I can still move the part to to the area where the part will go, add the
place with the point of a knife, then touch a refine the position. If I don’t like it at all, I can part, then draw away excess liquid with a
brush with thinned glue to the edge and let remove the glue with a little water. Once I’m brush.
capillary action draw the liquid under the satisfied, I secure the part with super glue.
part.

May 2013  www.FineScale.com 27

 Bending photoetched metal

1 2 3
Simple, straight bends can be done with twee- If the part is bigger or more complicated, hold If you plan to do a lot of bending, get a spe-
zers or pliers. I recommend a pair of smooth- a metal straightedge at the bend and place a cialized tool like Mission Models’ Etch Mate.
jawed pliers so you don’t mar the metal. Some razor blade under the section to be bent. Then You clamp the part into the bender, then use a
companies, like Tamiya, sell needle-nose, gently pivot the blade to bend the metal blade to smoothly bend the part against the
smooth-jaw pliers especially for bending pho- against the edge. metal edge. Most benders have several shapes
toeteched metal. and sizes to accommodate odd parts and
allow for multiple bends.

4 5 6
On an elbow bender, the part is clamped at Curves require a different approach. For sim- For more acute curves, use a cylinder, such as
the bend point and the tool pivots to bend the ple, slight curves, place the part on a cutting a metal rod or tube, as a mandrel. I use one
part. mat or other slightly soft surface, then roll a that’s slightly smaller in diameter than the
hard cylindrical object — a hobby knife han- shape I am making so the metal’s natural
dle works well — back and forth over it, springiness returns it to the right size.
applying even pressure. After a few passes,
the part should start to curve.

www.FineScale.com
7 8 Subscribers can see a walkaround of
Aaron’s Tamiya IS-3, as well as instruc-
Some kits include forms to produce unique If the metal is stiff, you can anneal it by heat- tional videos on attaching, bending,
shapes. ing it with a torch until it glows. (Hold the part and annealing photoetched-metal, at
with a tool that has insulated handles or you www.FineScale.com/OnlineExtras
will burn your fingers.) After it cools, you and www.FineScale.com/Videos.
should find it more malleable. FSM

28  FineScale Modeler May 2013

BUILDER BASICS
By Aaron Skinner

Reasoning with resin

It’s all about preparation

O
nce almost solely the province of aftermarket details and small manufacturers,
resin seems to be as prevalent today as photo-etch and plastic. Mainstream
manufacturers often include resin details or figures in their kits and the number
and quality of all- or mostly resin models increases every year.
This means that you need to know how to work with resin. Ultimately, “parts is parts,”
and the models go together the same, albeit with super glue or epoxy rather than plas-
tic-solvent cement that has no effect on resin. But cast-resin parts usually need a bit
more prep work before assembly. Here’s what you need to know.

Pour plugs

1 2 3
Most resin parts come attached to lumps of If you cut close on small parts, you can finish For large pour plugs, use a cutoff wheel in a
excess material referred to as pour plugs. Small cleanup with a sanding stick. Again, don’t motor tool. Set the speed low to avoid melting
plugs can be sliced off with a fine razor saw apply a lot of pressure, and try to keep the the resin, and don’t cut hard up against the
held close to the edge of the part. The material abrasive surface flat against the part. Check mating surface — it only takes one slip to slice
is relatively soft and easy to cut, so don’t use a your work and stop once the area is flat and deep into the part.
lot of pressure. Also, constantly check the uniform.
blade’s alignment as you go to avoid cutting
into the part itself.

52  FineScale Modeler  October 2018

 Mold seams

4 5 6
Unfortunately, that leaves a larger tab; remove Just as with injection-molded plastic, resin cast In tight spots, such as behind the knees of
most of it with a sanding stick or metal file. To in two-part molds can show mold seams. Fine Hunk of Junk’s 1/6 scale Xev Bellringer (from
ensure the mating area at a wing root is flat, lines are easily eliminated with a sanding stick the TV series Lexx), remove mold seams with a
hold the part against sandpaper taped to a or sandpaper. Take care to avoid scratching the hobby knife. Eliminate all traces of the blemish
hard, flat surface and move it in small circles surrounding surfaces or damaging detail. with sandpaper thin enough to get into the
until the area is flush. It’s important to work narrowest recesses.
slowly, keep the part aligned, and check your
progress frequently.

Fixing warped resin

7 8 9
A quick check of Xev’s legs showed that the Boil water in a container large enough to Immediately after removing the part from the
lower sections bent up slightly and wouldn’t submerge the warped part. The thickness of water, apply gentle pressure and bend it to the
sit flat. The part may have been molded that the resin determines how long it should stay in desired position. A quick dip in cold water will
way, or it may have warped during removal the hot water. Thinner parts don’t need much, set the resin in its new position.
from the molds or in storage. but the thicker material of Xev’s legs required
25-30 seconds.

Cleaning Pinholes Safety

10 11
Many resin parts are coated in a mold-release Air trapped in resin as it hardens produces
agent to ease removal from the mold. small voids in the material. Fill each with a
Unfortunately, that substance can prevent drop of super glue and sand it flush. Before Resin dust can be irritating: Wear gloves
paint from sticking to the resin. To remove it, painting, prime resin parts to check for and a respirator when sanding or cut-
soak the parts in an aggressive detergent such problems and promote paint adhesion. ting resin. Eye protection is essential
as Westley’s Bleche-Wite tire cleaner. Wear whenever a motor tool or corrosive
gloves and eye protection, and avoid splashing cleaners are used. FSM
it on bare skin as it can cause burns.

www.FineScale.com 53
BUILDER BASICS
By Waikong Chung

Acrylic-rod display
How to make an in-flight aircraft model look grrrrreat!

T
he NATO Association of Tiger Squadrons was established in 1961
as an informal way for NATO air forces to work together. Every year,
aircraft from several member and honorary member nations gather
for a public relations/media event with camaraderie as the centerpiece. From
the modeler’s perspective, the best part is the collection of flamboyant Tiger-
themed paint schemes from each squadron.
Ever since seeing a picture of a Belgian F-16 in NATO Tiger Meet mark-
ings, I’ve wanted to build one. I was able to pick up a sheet of decals from
DACO (No. DCD4846) that depicts an F-16 of Belgium’s 31 Tiger
Squadron during the 1998 event — beautiful colors on a black background.
Next, to find a kit. I picked up an old 1/48 scale Academy kit on sale that
would fit the bill. Technically, it’s not the correct subvariant, the main differ-
ence being the absent tail parachute. However, for this build I decided not to
care. In addition, I was going to build a wheels-up configuration with a pilot,
eliminating much of the detail work on the cockpit and landing gear. Those
areas always slow me down!
42  FineScale Modeler  July 2017
 1 2
Wheels up, doors closed: As you can see, a fair amount of filler was A 1/4-inch clear acrylic rod holds the aircraft aloft and is anchored in a
needed to smooth everything out. wood dowel in the model. The grooves were cut to allow the plug to
clear internally. I used epoxy to attach the plug before installing the
tailpipe — but make sure everything fits before applying epoxy.

3 4
To bend the rod, I clamped a heat gun to a table and, wearing heavy- I drilled a hole in the wood plug to receive the rod. It’s a friction fit, so I
duty gloves, heated the rod in one spot until I could bend it. If you want can remove it from the model for transport. It also made a good grab
a gentler curve, heat a larger portion of the rod and bend it around a handle during the decal process.
round object.

5 6
Epoxy holds the other end of the rod in a hole I drilled in a sufficiently The finish coat is Microscale satin; a clear gloss would have looked
weighty wood base. After a coat of Tamiya white primer, I sprayed toylike. No need for weathering — these aircraft were kept immaculate
Testors black gloss acrylic. Each tiger stripe is a separate decal; overall, it during the meet. I sprayed the base with metallic paint, mounted a
took eight hours and a lot of decal solution. home-printed 31 Squadron decal on a sheet-styrene placard, and my
tiger was ready to pounce! FSM

www.FineScale.com 43
Add grass
to display bases
A simple way to create a small scene /// BY CESAR “MANNY” RODRIGUEZ

If you already have a base,

you’re only a few steps and a
handful of materials away from
a grass-covered pedestal.

I
n the past, every time I finished a military vehicle I displayed it on a
plain wooden base. Boring!
Wanting to kick it up a notch, I recently starting adding grass,
twigs, and branches. Now, my vehicles fit their surroundings.
This method of making grass is easy to do and does not require a lot of
time — perfect for a busy modeler who still needs to finish the vehicle!

38  FineScale Modeler  July 2018

 Курская битва

1 2 3
Mask the base edges and apply a zigzag of Mix Celluclay, sand, Elmer’s glue, and talus rock Smooth out the paste using the back of the
super glue across the top. The amount of each debris together. Slowly add water to make a spoon.
material needed (see list) will vary by base size thick paste. Using an old spoon, scoop this on
— experiment with proportions. top of the super glue.

4 5 6
Sprinkle on Verlinden static grass. Once the … then pull the pieces out, leaving their To plant taller tufts of grass, dig out small holes
surface is completely covered, blow across the imprints behind. (Be sure to measure precisely with a toothpick. Place the ends of grass
grass to make the strands stand up realistically. how far apart tracks should be.) clusters inside the holes and fill them back in
Wait 30 minutes, then position the tracks, tires, with the grassy Celluclay mixture.
or figures. Press the pieces down slightly into
the hardening mixture …

7 8 9
Place the grass randomly and vary its height. Next, thin dark green enamel (acrylic would Dilute the green with yellow. Load a bristle
Let the base dry completely overnight. work as well) to the consistency of milk and brush with a tiny amount of paint and apply it
airbrush the grass. Let dry overnight. over the grass as if dry-brushing the base. Add
more yellow to the paint mix and make a
second pass. Add highlights to a few areas
with straight yellow.

Materials
• Tamiya masking tape
• Super glue
• Celluclay
• Sand
• Elmer’s glue
10 11 • Woodland talus rock debris, field
grass, dry wood, and tree branches
Add Woodland bark and branches in irregular Once you’re satisfied with the grassy scene,
patterns. remove the masking tape and check for paint • Verlinden static grass (No. 0044)
that might have slipped through. Now you can • Humbrol green and yellow enamels
place your vehicle in its tracks (whenever it’s
finished). FSM
www.FineScale.com 39
 Squiggles
made sımple
Precisely applied liquid mask makes it easy /// BY PABLO BAULEO

D
uring World War II, several air
forces camouflaged their aircraft Tip: Be careful when
with wavy or squiggly patterns. choosing a liquid
Examples include the Luftwaffe, Reggia mask. Some, like
Aeronautica, and Imperial Japanese army. Microscale Micro
Airbrushing these patterns freehand Mask, Humbrol
on scale models can be challenging. But it Maskol, and Mr.
doesn’t have to be difficult; I’ve developed Hobby Mr. Masking
a masking technique that turns a night- Sol Neo, contain
mare paint job into a breeze. It could even ammonia, leading
be used with spray cans. to problems with
I used it on Otaki’s 1/48 scale Nakajima acrylic paints. Check
Ki-43 to camouflage it for the People’s the labels before
Liberation Army during the Chinese use and test it if
Civil War in the late 1940s. you’re unsure.
— FSM staff

18  FineScale Modeler  April 2017

 1 2
Otaki’s Ki-43 builds quickly and easily with just a few fit problems Now for the painting: First, apply a uniform base color, using the shade
around the wing root and cowl flaps. Careful sanding took care of the that will be the color of the squiggles. In this case, I used light gray,
first problem, but I found it easier to adapt a set of cowl flaps from my which doubles as the lower-surface color.
spares box ­­— notice the slightly different plastic color — rather than
correcting the kit parts.

3 4
Tools of the trade: liquid mask — I used Bob Dively Liquid Masking Film Fill a syringe with liquid mask. Now, without dragging the tip of the
— a syringe, and blunt needles. I procured the latter from online syringe over the model — you don’t want to scratch the paint — draw
sources. Get several needle sizes for different applications, but be aware the squiggles on the model. Remember, you are masking the areas to
that the surface tension of the liquid mask limits the width of squiggles remain gray. Practice how to apply the liquid mask before applying it to
to 1-2mm (1/64-1/32 inch). the model.

5 6
This is the model once all the squiggles are applied. This technique is After letting the liquid mask dry overnight, I airbrushed the main
very forgiving; if you don’t like the pattern, let the liquid mask dry, pull it surface color. I usually mask the areas for the national insignia. In this
up, and reapply as needed. case, I added wavy patterns around the insignia to reproduce the paint
job on the original airplane.

www.FineScale.com 19
 7 8
A few hours later, peel off the liquid mask. The material is stretchy, and it The camouflage in all its glory: I masked and painted a black antiglare
is both fun and a bit messy to remove. Stripping the mask within a few panel and wing walk, then attached the antenna mast. The wing and
hours minimizes the risk of a ridge forming along the edges of the paint rudder were the underlying gray, so the national markings can be
as it dries. applied over a uniform color.

I finished the model with Bestfong decals (No. 48053), EZ Line for the antenna, a Mig Productions panel-line wash, and pastel chalk for engine
exhaust. Antenna insulators were made by applying dabs of white glue and painting them white. FSM

20  FineScale Modeler  April 2017

BUILDER BASICS
By Elizabeth Nash

Setting up your
“I purchased the house my family is in now
under one condition: that one of the three
bedrooms could be my workspace and the

workbench
place where I display all my models. I love this
space and try to keep it organized.”
– Jose Luiz Dalmiglio, Guarujá, São Paulo, Brazil

What to buy and where to put it

C
lose your eyes and pic- there’s a Jacuzzi and Sno-cone rent space closer to that perfect
ture your perfect work- machine in your peripherals as one you’re imagining.
space. What do you see? well — it’s your perfect work- Whether you have a lot of
Paint racks up to the ceiling? space. money budgeted or want to
Light streaming over the bench While the FSM staff can’t work with what you have, fol-
from high-powered desk lamps? make hot tub recommenda- low these tips and you’ll have a
Clean, white tile floors? Perhaps tions, we can help get your cur- workbench to be proud of.
18  FineScale Modeler  December 2018
Things to purchase
Inexpensive upgrades
Let’s start from the top, down.

• Fan — A small fan can both keep you close a drawer. Cushioned contact paper is
comfortable when it’s warmer and blow a tacky material that can be cut to fit any
unpleasant and bad-for-you fumes far away. cabinet, drawer, or counter and helps keep
• Cutting mat — Keep sharp, stabby items things in place. It also quiets the act of
away from countertops. Look for a self- picking things up and putting them down
healing mat with measurements printed on. — win-win!
Check out Dave’s handy mat (right). • Recycle bin — Empty paint bottles, kit
• Drawer organizers — Take a walk down packaging, scratch paper — all of this and
any home improvement aisle and you’ll see more can be recycled. Instead of putting it “My workbench is very basic, but, so far, it
quite the selection. Measure your space in the waste bin, only to rummage through works for me. With each model, I learn
(drawer inserts do not necessarily have to sit and sort it later, just purchase another bas- something new and hope to keep gradually
in a drawer) and find small organizers that ket or can to hold all the recycling. Toss improving.” – Dave Sorensen, Irvine, California
fit. Look for ones made of clear plastic, plastic, paper, and more inside and be done
which are easy to clean and keep small bits with it. Standing is good for you! It’s healthy for
organized inside the compartments. In • Power strip — If you never seem to have the body and can increase your energy, if
these you can store hobby knives, extra enough outlets, a power strip or two can perhaps at the expense of your feet. Help
blades, files, sanding sticks and paper, make all the difference. The best ones come those puppies out by standing on a thick
screwdrivers, pencils, etc. Bonus: Tackle with rotating outlets, making the placement cushion with a lot of give and bounce. Of
boxes also work for storing small bits. of large and oddly shaped plugs easy. course you can buy a specialty mat, or you
• Contact paper — While organizers can Remember to purchase only those with can make one for less by placing a rug over
corral smaller items, the bigger pieces will surge protectors. carpet padding. Viola! No more barking
still slide around each time you open and • Floor mat — Haven’t you heard? dogs.

Pricer picks
Middling purchases that make a difference.

• Paint racks — You’re going to collect a lot what brand you buy, look for ones that are
of ’em so it’s best to have specific shelving easy to clean.
meant for storing small bottles. If you’re • Chair — Haven’t you heard? Sitting some
short on wall space, look at Doc O’Brien’s of the time is really appreciated. Don’t
Paint Tower, a vertical storage tower that sabotage your relaxation with an uncom-
can hold 56 bottles of paint. fortable chair. Throw money at something
• Tool organizers — HobbyZone USA is with support and cushion, and preferably
where it’s at when it come to modeling- with a seat that can be raised, lowered, and
specific organizers. They have brush hold- swivels. You’ll notice George (right) uses a “With this space I am able to work on three kits
ers, model stands, pallets, part holders, rolling chair to get around his space (just at a time. Currently, I’m building a Tamiya
storage drawers, and as many module set- don’t roll over the dog!) Hawker Hurricane, ICM Hs 126A, and
ups that you could ever want. But no matter Hasegawa P-38.” – George Hamlin, via email

Big purchases
Livin’ the dream (and paying for it).

• Secretary desk — A beautiful, sturdy desk light on the water heater. OK, so there are
can last a lifetime. Purchase one with a two places you don’t want paint fumes.
retractable lid and keep your models safe Invest in a good spray booth to avoid any
in-between build sessions. Take a look at problems. The typical size of the models
Warren’s beautiful (and protective) work you work on will govern the booth size.
station (right). That, in turn, will govern the power of the
• Spray booth — Airbrushes and spray cans fan — this is one tool you’ll be happy to say
push out a lot of paint and not all of it really sucks! Make sure the fan draws the
makes it to the target model. Overspray on paint fumes through a filter and out of the “When it comes to workbenches, my personal
walls and your workbench might be OK, workshop to the great outdoors. If you pre- preference is the classic secretary’s desk. This
especially if you aren’t fussy about the decor. fer to build your own booth, find inspira- allows me to protect everything when I am not
But the one place you don’t want stray paint tion on the FSM forums by typing in “build working. It has served me well for more than
particles going is your lungs. Or the pilot spray booth.” 40 years.” – Warren Graser, Elkton, Maryland

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Arrange your space
Working with what you have
No need to spend money, simply rearrange to make the most of the space at hand.

• Put like with like — Store similar things loose miscellanies corralled in cups and
together. Organize by pulling everything bowls. Magnetic tool holders, such as the
from one category out into an open space. ones sold by Micro-Mark keep small metal
Don’t leave out a single item in a category. tools up and out of the way while making
This way you can see exactly how much you them visible and easy to grab.
own and judge how much storage the col- • Keep things close — While the dream
lection will take up. Then move onto the may be to have an expansive workbench
next step … with tons of counter real estate, the truth is
• Designate a spot for everything — There that you want to keep supplies close at “My father worked with machines and after he
most definitely is a place for all the items in hand. When sitting/standing in your main passed away I took his machinist’s tool box
your workshop. Some are obvious: paints on spot, the items you use most often should and converted it to a modeling tool kit. Paints,
a rack, pencils in a cup. Other objects don’t never be out of reach. Stretch your arms to files, brushes, tools, putties, extra decals … it
have a well-defined storage area, but it’s the left and right, make note of this space, stores them all nicely, keeping everything safe
easy to make one using solutions from and place storage containers, paints, and convenient. Best of all, it’s portable; if I go
around your home. Put round bottles on a brushes, and tools here. Richard keeps his on vacation, I close it up and bring it along!”
lazy Susan; collect sandpaper in shoeboxes; tools very close at all times (right). – Richard Zolla, Monson, Massachusetts

Bigger changes
So you’re ready to do some installation …

• Plenty of lighting — Good lighting is pricey, but can last for decades.
crucial when working with small pieces. • Pegboard — If you’ve run out of surface
Surrounding lamps can help, but also get a space, go vertical and hang a pegboard.
desk lamp. Look for one that swivels so you Look at John’s organized setup (right).
can focus the light where needed. And don’t • Shelving — Spend as much, or as little,
leave what goes in the lamps to chance … money as you want. A simple slab of rect-
• Light bulbs — Is that olive green or olive angular wood and brackets will do you fine;
drab? Put it under good lighting and you sanding and staining are optional.
won’t have to ask. A bright workspace is • U-desk — Last month you were finishing “I wanted a shop that would accommodate all
essential, but it’s also important to have the up painting a Corvette car and now you’re of my hobby interests, and would provide the
right color temperature measured in kelvin building the hull of a corvette ship. First space for occasional group-build sessions. Our
(K). Look for bulbs labeled as “daylight” off, good for you, keep it up! Second, install basement is a walk-out with a lot of natural
(5,000K to 6,500K). These cast a bright a U-desk, a table with a partly collapsible lighting, perfect for hobby work!”
bluish-white light. This hue provides amaz- surface. Expand your counter space when – John Brohm, Mars, Pennsylvania
ing contrast and shows true colors when you need it and hide it when you don’t.
compared to warmer “soft white” (2,700K – • Bookshelf — Why, where else will you
3,000K) bulbs. Newer LED bulbs are keep back issues of FSM?

Tear up and rebuild

Start over and make it perfect.

• Outlets — If you can install several more Get one with a large bowl and spray nozzle.
outlets along the baseboards, great — you • Flooring — Carpeting is a monster that
know you’ll use all of them. If you can have eats photo-etch. Slay it by installing hard-
them raised up several feet, even better — wood or tile. Get a light color that won’t act
no more crawling around on the floor as camouflage. Bonus: Spills are easier to
(except to chase down stray parts). clean and your chair will roll better. It’s easy
• Sink — When reading through the work- to get around Mark’s work room (right).
bench wish lists on the FSM forum, a sink • Cabinets — If you like the idea of shelv-
is one of the most sought after items. Wash ing but prefer a cleaner look, then install “My wife and I moved often so my spaces were
your troubles (and paint water) down the cabinetry. You’ll love it, and so will others in generally dark basements and garages. When I
drain of a large utility sink close to your your household who don’t enjoy clutter. retired we agreed on a bigger house that
bench. If you can stomach the plumbing • Vents and ducts — Make your paint could accommodate a first-class studio. There’s
costs, this addition might be the greatest booth permanent and tuck the vent pipe an outside vented paint booth with its own air
modeling asset since needle-nose pliers. into the wall. FSM conditioner.” – Mark Mahal, Naples, Florida

20  FineScale Modeler  December 2018

Inspiration

“My wife and I moved to a smaller house with a large walk-in closet in a “I built this cabinet twenty years ago. After surviving all this time and
bedroom. I purchased storage cubes for my paints and spray booth. I even a fire, it’s still temporary. When done working, I can close it and
model on an old office desk.” – Phil Cavender, Myrtle Beach, South Carolina the wife is happy.” – Chester Mohn, New Cumberland, Pennsylvania

“My workshop is 4-feet, 6-inches wide by 9-feet long and is located “In addition to the normal plastic, I also build large wooden ships. I’ve
under the basement steps. It may be jam-packed, but since I do mostly found that containers with several drawers work great for holding spare
military miniatures it works just fine.” – Dan Pocek, Walton Hills, Ohio parts and extra tools.” – Steve Steransak, Kinnelon, New Jersey

“My corner of the basement is almost overflowing! The workbench is a “These lighted cases make for easy viewing while protecting the planes
discard from a laboratory I once worked at — perfect for storing longer from people and dust. My goal is to have one example of every aircraft
tools and those with cords.” – Charles Spencer, Mundelein, Illinois type from WWII in the collection.” – Rick Troutman, Lynchburg, Virginia

www.FineScale.com 21