*Draft:

1.Straight draft: 2.Pointed draft

5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
# 1 2 3 4 5 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Position=1,2,3,4,5 Position=1,2,3,4,5,,4,3,2,1
R.S=5*5 R.S=5*9

3.Flat Pointed draft: 4 Skip draft:

5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 # 1 2 3 4 5
Position= 1,2,3,4,5,5,4,3,2,1 Position:1,3,2,4,3
R.S=5*10 R.S=5*5

5.Broken draft: 6.Divided draft:

4 6
3 5
2 4
1 3
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 2
Position=1,2,3,4,2,1,4,3 1
R.S=4*8 # 1 2 3 4 5 6
Position=1,4,2,5,3,6

**Twill Weave:
5 5 5
4 4 4
3 3 3
2 2 2
1 1 1
# 1 2 3 4 5 # 1 2 3 4 5L R 5 4 3 2 1#
R.S=5*5 R.S=5*5 R.S=5*5
Warp way Z-Twill weave Weft way Z-Twill weave Warp way S-Twill weave

**Multiple Twill Weave:

8 8
7 7
6 6
5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
R.S=8*8 R.S=8*8
Doubleface e multiple warpway Z-Twill Doubleface Multiple weftway Z-Twill
3/2*1/2 3/2*1/2

**Zig-zag Twill:
 1 2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1 5
5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
# 1 2 3 4 5 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 2 3 4 5
R.S=5*5 R.S=5*10

Zig-Zag Weaved or pointed Multiple Twill Weaved Based Om n 3 d on 3 up 2 down twill weave

Zig-zag Horizontal twill Weave:

1 2 3 4 5 4 3 2 1 5
5 5 5
4 4 4
3 3 3
2 2 2
1 1 1
# 1 2 3 4 5 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 # 1 2 3 4 5
R.S=5*5 R.S=5*10
Zig-Zag Horizontal Z-Twill Weave

Zig-Zag Vertical Twill:

6
5
4
3
2
1
# 1 2 3 4 5 6
12 6
11 1
10 2
9 3
8 4
7 5
 6 6 6
5 5 5
4 4 4
3 3 3
2 2 2
1 1 1
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 # 1 2 3 4 5 6
R.S=6*6 R.S=6*12
10
9
8
7
**Herringbone Twill Weave: 6
5
4
3
2
1

5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
# 1 2 3 4 5 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
R.S=10*5
Herringbone warpway Zig-zag Twill

5
4
3
2
1
# 1 2 3 4 5
10
9
8
7
6
5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
# 1 2 3 4 5 # 1 2 3 4 5
R.S=5*5 R.S=5*10
Herringbone weftway zigzag twill

**Diamond Design:

**Herringbone Diamond: /diaper design:

 # #
R.S=6*6 Warp Way Herringbone Diamond

** Broken Twill:

1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 6 5 4
6
5
4
3
2
1
# R.S=6*6 # Warp Way Broken Twill # # Weft Way Broken Twill
Doubleface Twill

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1 2 3 4 7 6 5
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
# R.S=7*7 Warp Way Broken Twill # R.S=7*7 #
F.N=3/1*2/1 F.N=2/2*2/1 Weft way Broken Twill

**Single end rearrange design:

Possible design:
1 7 2
Warp 4 7 3
4 5 3
1 4 2
1 7 2
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 # 1 5 2 6 3 7 4

**Group end rearrange design:

d

Warp Weft b

c
 a
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 # 1 2 5 6 3 4 7 8
a b c d a c b d
R,S=8*8
F.N=3/2*2/1
** Corkscrew:

# # # 3
R.S=7*7 M.N=3
F.N=3/1*2/1
Weft face satin(sateen) warp face satin
Odd number corkscrew

# 1 2 3 4 5 6 # a b c d e f # 1 a 2 b 3 c 4 d 5
R.S=6*6 R.S=6*6 R.S=12*6
F.N=3/3 F.N=2/1*2/1
Even number corksrew
**Shaded design:

(3 2
1)/(3 2
1) Double Shaded
Single shaded Design
Design

# R.S=12*12
F.N=

#
R.S=24*24
** Irregular satin:
(2 1)/█(1 1@)
 # 4*4 # 6*6

**Derivatives of satin:
*Crepe: 3
By Superimposing

By Reversing # 5*5 # 5*5

Plain Based

Sateen Based Crepe design by Superimpos

3 5 3
4
2 3 2
2
# 7*7 1 1
# 1 2 3 4 5 # 1
5*5 10*10

**shaded design:
*Single shaded

# 5*5 Sateen # 1 20*5 2 3

Weft to warp single shaded sa

# 5*5 Satin # 1 20*5 2 3

Warp to weft single shaded sa
*Double shaded:
 5*5 Sateen # 1 20*5 2 3
Weft to warp double shaded sateen design

**Fancy design:

# 10*10 # 6*10 # 8*8

huckaback design /Balance Devon Huckaback Huckaback

# 6*6
Mock leno(smallest repeat)
# 10*10
Mockleno design

**Honeycomb design: Repeat size always will be multiple of 4,,, e.g=4*4….8*8….12*12…16*16

*Brighton
*Ordinary

#
 # 12*12 Brighton Honeycomb

Introduction:
Plain weave also called Tabby Weave, linen weave and taffeta weave is
It is strong and hard-wearing, is used for fashion and furnishing fabric. In the
at the right angles aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern.
Its uses range from heavy and coarse canvas and blankets made of thick ya
made inIt is also known as Calcio.

Uses of plain weave:

Plain weave used for structure which range from very heavy and coarse can
It also used in dothi, saree, shirting, suiting etc.

Characteristics of plain weave:

 1. Simplest weave of all weaves.
2. It can be produced in minimum repeat size of 2*2
3. It has the maximum number of binding points
4. Threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down
5. Thread density is limited
6. Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited
7. It produced a relatively strong fabric that is obtained by any other comb

Rib weave:

Warp Rib:
When the weave extended in warp direction warp rib weave produced. It give
It is vertical extension of plain weave.

Design:

Regular Warp Rib

In the regular warp rib, the number of warp yarn is same for each li
structure creates the floating characteristics on the fabric. For this f
The regular warp rib is shown in the figure.

Drafting plan
 8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 Lifting plan

Formula Number Repeat Size=8*

2 6
2

Irregular Warp Rib:

In this case the number of weft yarn in the bundle are diff
the fraction line and below the fraction line are not same.
The irregular warp rib is shown in the figure.

Drafting Plan

14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 Lifting plan
 Formula Number 3 Repeat Size=
4 14*6

Feature of warp rib:

Following features are posses by warp rib weave

1. It is a vertical extension of plain weave.

2. Number of warp is 2 and number of weft os sum of wave numbe
3. It gives a cord effect in weft direction .
4. Finer yarn are for warp.
5. EPI is more than PPI
6. Coarser yarn used in weft.
7. Two or more weft yran pass above or below the warp yarns.
8. It is most used gor poplin fabric.

Weft rib:

When the plain weave extends in weft direction weft rib weave prod
It is horizontal extension of plain weave.

Design:

Regular Weft Rib

In this weave the number of warp ends in the bundle

single number at the right side of the fraction line. Th
of ribs is produced on the surface of the fabric.
The regular w
 Drafting Plan

6
5
4
3
2
1
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Lifting Plan
Formula Number 2 Repeat Size=
6*
2 8

Irregular Weft Rib

In this case the number of warp yarns in the bund

is two different numbers at the roght side of the fra
So, the different size of ribs i.e. thick and thin ribs
The irregular weft rib weaves are shown in the figu

Drafting Plan

6
5
4
3
 2
1
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 Lifting plan
Formula Number 3
2 Repeat Size=6*10

Features of Weft rib structure:

Following features are possess by weft rib weave

1. It is a horizontal extension of plain weave

2. number of weft is 2 and number of warp is sum of w
3. It gives a cord effect in warp direction
4. Finer yarns used for weft
5. PPI is more than EPI
6.Coarser yarns used in warp
7. Two or more warp yarn pass above or below the we
8. It is mostly use for producing blankets, hair cord fab
9. Normally two heald shaft is used.

Names of Rib Fabric:

Following woven fabric is produced by plain rib sturcture-

1. Cord Fabric
2. Bayadere
3. Ottoman
4. Poplin Fabric
5. Blankets
6. Broadcloth
7. Faille
8. Hair Cords
 9. Shantung
10. Taffeta

Some properties of plain weave fabric:

1. No right or wrong side

2. No lengthwise of crosswise stretch, only stretch is on t
3. Doesn't fray as easily as other weaves.
4. Creases easily

Matt weave:
The matt weave is a variation of the plain weave, uses two or more warp /weft yarn side by side as one yarn. Th
The matt weave is obtained by doubling or otherwise multiplying the interlacing points of the plain weave in both the war
Basket weaves are made with two or more adjacent warps controlled by the same harness, and with two or more weft ya
The interlacing patterns are similar to a plain weave but two or more yarns follow the same parallel path.
Derivatives of Matt weave are given below:
Regular matt weave:
Most regular matts are woven with the same number of ends and picks and the same yarn count.Equal warp flo
So the regular matt weave is produced bt the combination of regular warp and weft rib weave.This is represente

"A A"
A 6
A= warp/weft floa 5
4
3
2
1

Drafting Plan

6
5
4
Design 3
2
1
 # Lifting plan
Repeat unit=6*6
Regular matt weave #
Regular
matt=

Irregular matt weave:

Warp and weft floats are different in one repeat of irregular matt weave.So the irregular
matt weave is produced by the combination of irregular warp and weft rib weave.

The irregular matt weave is represented by t" (A+B

A "
)
B
Where "A" indicates the warp floats and "B" indicates the weft floats.

4
3
2
1
Drafting
plan
6
5
4
3
2
1
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 Lifting plan
Repeat size=6*6 Irregular
matt=

Stitch matt:
with worsted yarns.To produce a firm cloth with Iower setting , the centre ends in each
square can be stitched.In case of warp float are the central warp yarn goes down and of
The following figures show the weave plan of stitch matt fabric with drafting and drawing plan

6
5
4
3
2
 1
Drafting plan

10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Design (stitch matt) Lifting plan
Repeat size =10*10

Fancy matt:
by the neighbouring threads,so it does not visible on the fabrics surface.But in the fancy
matt the stitching threads are not hidden , they are visible.The stitching system affects the

10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
Drafting plan

18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
# 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Lifting plan
Design(Fancy matt)
Repeat size= 18*18
Fancy 9
9
matt= 9
 Fancy 5
5
matt= 5

Fancy 9
9
matt= 9

Examples of matt weave: Monks cloth,Oxford etc.

Conclusion:
Matt weave is a derivatives of plain weave but its fabric look flatter than comparable regular plain we
Matt weave fabrics are more flexible and wrinkle resistant because there are fewer interlacings per square inch.
The matt weave cloth has a great resistance to tearing.Matt weave tend to give smooth surfaced fabrics.
It is reversible if not printed or finished with special effects.
 18
17
16
15
14
13
12
mond Design: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
9 9
8 8
7 7
6 6
5 5
4 4
 3 3
2 2
1 1
# R.S=9*9 # 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
F.N=3/2*3/1
Warp Way Diamond Diaesign

4
5
6
3
2
1
Weft Way Broken Twill

4
5
6
7
3
2
1

Weft way Broken Twill

4
ossible design: 7
6 3 5 4 3
6 2 5 1 Pick 6
6 2 7 1 2
5 3 6 7 5
6 3 5 4 1
#

8
7
4
3
6
5
 2
1
#

e 6 f

(3 2
1)/█(
1 2
(3 2 3@)
1)/█(
1 2
3@)

F.N=

(2 1)/█(1 1@)
 # 5*5

# 4*4 # 8*8
repe design by Superimposing Crepe design by reversing

(3 3)/█(2 2@)

1/█
(4@
)*2
2 3 4 5

FN

4 # 5*20
ngle shaded sasat een

4
ngle shaded sasatin
 4 3 2
shaded sateen design

Huckaback

4*4….8*8….12*12…16*16

.
8*8 # 8*8
 Ordinari Honeycomb # 10*8 #

nd taffeta weave is the most basic three fundamental types of textile weave.
nishing fabric. In the plain weave cloth the warp and weft threads cross
oss pattern.
ets made of thick yarns to yhe lightest and finest cambries and muslins

avy and coarse canvas & blankets.

 by any other combination of thread.

ave produced. It gives cord or rib effect in weft direction.

n is same for each line and it alters in the next picks. This type of
the fabric. For this fabric becomes comfortable than the basic plain weave cloth.
n the bundle are different i.e. in the formula number, the number above
n line are not same.
sum of wave number.

the warp yarns.

weft rib weave produced. It gives a cord or rib effect in weft direction.

p ends in the bundle should be same,i.e. in the formula number, there is

the fraction line. The thickness of all ribs is same. So the same size
e of the fabric.
The regular weft rib is shown in the figure.
 p yarns in the bundle is different i.e. the formula number, there
roght side of the fraction line. The thickness of all ribs is not same.
. thick and thin ribs are produced on the surface of the fabric.
are shown in the figure.
n weave
of warp is sum of weave number

ove or below the weft yarn

nkets, hair cord fabrics

lain rib sturcture-

, only stretch is on the bias.

de by side as one yarn. The resultant cloth is fairly loose in weave.

plain weave in both the warp and weft direction.
nd with two or more weft yarns placed in the same shed.
same parallel path.

arn count.Equal warp floats exchange with equal warp floats.

weave.This is represented with the formula number of
 3
3
3

4 (4
Irregular
+2
matt=
2 )
Stitch 5
5
matt= 5
arable regular plain weaves fabric.
s per square inch.
8*10