Course Title : Garments Manufacturing

Management

Course Code : IE 3011

Assignment on :Fabric
cutting In Garments
Manufacturing

Submitted By : Submitted To :
Shimla Yeasmin Hafsana Yeasmin

ID : 2172401013 Senior Lecturer

Semester : 11th Department of FDT

Batch : 15th Uttara University

 Index

Serial Number Name of Topics

1. Introduction

2. Definition

3. Objectives of fabric cutting

4. Factors affecting the cutting processes

5. Method of Fabric Cutting

6. Process Sequence in Cutting Room

7. Machines Used in Cutting Room in Apparel

Industry

8. Conclusion
Introduction
Cutting room is a section in the garments industry where to cut fabrics as per the pattern,
marker, cutting parts sew to bring in garments form. Cutting is the most sensitive operation in
the apparel industry, cutter man work accuracy is the key here to maintain good cutting
quality Some certain rules and procedure have to maintain by cutting department .

Definition
fabric cutting means to cut out pattern pieces of garment component as per exact dimension
of the pattern from a fabric lay It is totally different from general cutting in which exact
dimension is not taken into account. Apparel production starts with the cutting process. In this
process, fabric is being cut into components ,shapes or patterns of different garment parts, i.e.
front, back, sleeve, collar shapes etc.

Objectives of Fabric Cutting

 To separate fabric parts from the spread of lay according to the dimension of the
marker
 To make the garments according to the required design and shape
 To prepare garments pieces to go forward with the next process of garments
 manufacturing

Factors affecting the cutting processes

 Nature of fabric ( grain line shade, twill etc.)
 Thickness of fabric.
 Design characteristics of finished garment.

Requirements for Fabric Cutting

Precision of fabric cutting

Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern pieces in the
marker. Accurate cutting depends on methods of cutting and marker planning. If manual
cutting method is used, then cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator,
and attentiveness of operator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self
cutting accuracy.

Consistent cutting
Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensured that the
shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and shape, otherwise
the garments produced will be defective.

Infused edge
line-height: 115%;">During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade
produces temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 3000C. If the fabric
contains synthetic fibres e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused edge may
result in the fabric. As because most of those fibres melt at around 2500C. Therefore, sticking
of cut edge of fabric will increase the fabric wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after cooling
will form hard bid, which will be a problem of irritation during use of garments.

Method of Fabric Cutting

Manual Method
 Scissor
 Round knife
 Band knife
 Straight knife
 Die cutting
 Notcher, and
 Drill

Computerized Method

   Straight Knife cutting

   Water jet cutting
   Laser beam cutting, and
  Plasma torch cutting.

Scissor
It is the oldest type of instrument used for cutting paper, thread, fabric, etc. It is generally used
for cutting single layer of fabric but for cutting multilayer of fabrics another type of instrument
will have to be chosen.
Round Knife
The cutting knife is a circular disc type component which has a very sharp edge. It rotates at
about 1000 to 3000 rpm by electric power. The main components are circular knife, baseplate,
motor, knife guard, etc. The sharp edge may be waved, toothed, and plain.

Straight Knife
It is the commonest and extensively used fabric cutting machine in the garments
manufacturing Industries .The machine has a base plate; under base plate there are wheels to
facilitate easy movement of the cutting machine during fabric cutting on the cutting table.
There is a big motor on the stand; the stand is connected to the base plate. On the motor,
there is a handle to move the cutting machine. The blade or knife is situated inside of the
stand. 
 
Band knife
It looks like a saw mill wood cutting machine but of smaller in size. An endless blade is placed
on three pulleys and the blade is driven by a motor continuously in one direction. The blade
passes through a slot of the cutting table. The operator places the fabric lay onto the table,
pushes the block of fabric towards the rotating blade and cuts the pattern by moving the lay.
To ensure accurate cutting, templates are use

Die Cutting
The main components of a die cutting machine are ram head, die, cutting blade, motor, etc.
The die is made from steel strip, as per exact size and shape of each pattern. One end of the
steel strip is sharpened and the other end is secured by tie bar. The die is placed onto the
fabric lay and pressure is applied on the die by ram head. As a result, they cut the fabric by
embedding into the fabric lay.
Process Sequence in Cutting Room

Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Numbering
↓
100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.
↓
Shorting & Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling

Operation of Cutting During Garments Manufacturing are given below

Marker Making:

Markers, made in accordance to the patterns are attached to the fabric with the help of
adhesive stripping or staples. Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric
gets wasted during cutting operation. After marking the garment manufacturer will get the
idea of how much fabric he has to order in advance for the construction of garments.
Computer marking is done on speciallized softwares. In computerized marking there is no
need of large paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are
made instead to know how much fabric is required.

Fabric Spreading
With the help of spreading machines, fabric is stacked on one another in reaches or lays that
may go over 100 ft (30.5 m) long and hundreds of plies (fabric pieces) thick.

Cutting
The fabric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting machines suitable for the type of the cloth.
These can be band cutters having similar work method like that of band saws; cutters having
rotary blades; machines having reciprocal blades which saw up and down; die clickers similar
to die or punch press; or computerized machines that use either blades or laser beams to cut
the fabric in desired shapes.

Sorting/Bundling:
The sorter sorts the patterns according to size and design and makes bundles of them. This
step requires much precision because making bundles of mismatched patterns can create
severe problems. On each bundle there are specifications of the style size and the marker too
is attached with it.

Sewing/Assembling
The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched. Large garment manufacturers have
their own sewing units other use to give the fabrics on contract to other contractors. Stitching
in-house is preferable because one can maintain quality control during the processing. On the
other hand if contractors are hired keeping eye on quality is difficult unless the contactor is
one who precisely controls the process.

Machines Used in Cutting Room in Apparel Industry

  Automatic spreading machine
 Automatic cutting machine
 Manual cutting with straight knife
 Round knife cutting machine
 Band knife cutting machine
 Die Cutting machine
 Computerized automatic cutting machine

Automatic Cutting Machine

Conclusion
From The above discussion it can be said that In Apparel Industry fabric cutting is an
important department and it plays an important rule because fabric is the main raw material .
Cutting is one of the major steps to make a complete garment according to required design
and shape .