Recent Development of Circular Knitting
Recent Development of Circular Knitting
Machine for outerwear and under wear may vary from 12 inch to 60 inch in diameter according
to manufactures requirement. This machine can be used either as fabric or for making garments
completely with fancy stitch. Latch needles are commonly employed in all modern circular
machines because of their simple action and also their ability to process more types of yarns.
Photo: Brush.
Tension Disk: It confronts the tension of the supply yarn.
Photo: MPF.
Feeder Ring: It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together.
Photo: Feeder Ring.
Disk Drum: Use in jacquard machine to produce various types of design.
Photo: Sinker.
Sinker Ring: Sinker ring is a ring. Where all sinkers are pleased together.
Photo: Expander.
Needle Detector: This part detect the any type of faults of needles.
Seamless knitting machines can create more than one tube and join the tubes together on a
machine. The complete garments knitted on circular machines may also only need a minimal
cutting operation.
In addition, seamless circular machines require different diameters to make major changes in
garment size, whereas seamless flat machines can adjust to different garment sizes on the same
machine. Consequently, seamless knitting on circular machines is not true seamless knitting. It
should be mentioned that knitting on V-bed seamless machines produces truly seamless garments
since they do not require any cutting or sewing. In recent years, Santoni has developed a four-
feed single-jersey electronic circular machine, which enables the creation of a shaped garment by
reciprocal movement.
To get a higher quality knitted garment, it is crucial to control the manufacturing functions. It is
critical for designers and manufacturers to communicate effectively in order to create successful
new products in the knitting industry. Designers complain that the designs that they specified are
not accurately created, while technicians are of the opinion that the designers do not understand
the technical problems in knitting feasibility. It has been proposed that one way to overcome the
communication problem between designers and technicians would be the use of intelligent CAD
systems. The CAD system gives designers and manufacturers the opportunity to specify and
evaluate their design more precisely without requiring great time investment and technical
expertise. Diverse computercontrolled systems including CAD/CAM controlled machines have
been developed to facilitate communication.
Companies have been offered new types of CAD system, which use two different monitors
including a technical window and a design window for designers and manufacturers, who require
different information for the same design.
Fine gauge automotive fabrics, known as woven-like fabrics, are produced on fine gauge double
cylinders in Pai Lung ultra fine gauge machines. Pile technology is applied to these machines,
where the fine gauge of loop makers is adjusted near to the sinkers.
As for the type of needle used, Italian machines incorporate latch needles, which operate
according to the drowned butt principle. This kind of needle remains in an idle position with its
heel completely drowned in the needle bed groove without being involved in the action of cams,
and retains the loop, which in this case is not subject to strain. Figures 7.7 and 7.8 demonstrate
novel loop transfer elements of these circular knitting machines.
Each blend is chosen for its specific end result. By engineering the fibre mix, an incredibly wide
range of colours, density, weight, patterning, texture and performance features can be produced
in comfort knit pile fabrics.
Needle with spring for high speed loop transferring
After knitting, the pile fabric is sheared to the desired height. It is then put through a series of
technical finishing processes specially developed by this kind of knitting process to control the
surface texture and special characteristics of the final fabric
The machines used for the manufacturing of knit fabrics can be divided into machines with
individually driven needles and needle bar machines. The former type of machine incorporates
needles which are moved individually by cams acting on the needle butt; they are used for
producing weft knits and are subdivided into circular knitting machines and flat-bed knitting
machines.
The needles used can be latch needles or compound needles. The needle bar machines
incorporate needles which move simultaneously, since they are all fixed to the same bar; we
distinguish full-fashioned knitting machines and circular loop-wheel machines for the production
of weft knit fabrics, which only use spring-beard needles, and warp knitting machines which
use spring-beard needles, latch needles and compound needles.
Classification of Knitting Machines
Flat knitting machine
The Frame:
The needle beds
Concept of machine gauge
The carriage and yarn guides
Feeding the yarn
The take-down device
Selecting the needles
Selection of high and low butts
Main Features:
1. Flat knitting machine has two stationary needle beds
2. Latch needles are used
3. Angular cams of a bi-directional cam system is used
4. The cam system is attached to the under side of a carriage, which with its selected yarn
carriers.
5. The carriage traverses in a reciprocating manner across the machine width
6. There is a separate cam system for each needle bed
7. The two cam systems are linked together by a bridge, which passes across from one needle
bed to the other.
8. Normally machine gauge is 3 to 18 needles per inch and machine width up to 79 inches.
a. Diagram of a V bed, and b. Diagram showing relative positions of needles from front and back
beds
Advantages of Flat Knitting Machine:
1. The flat machine is the most versatile of weft knitting machines, its stitch potential
includes needles election on one or both beds, racked stitches, needle-out designs,
striping, tubular knitting, changes of knitting width and loop transfer.
2. A wide range of yarn counts may be knitted per machine gauge including a number of
ends of yarn in one knitting system, the stitch length range is wide and there is the
possibility of changing the machine gauge.
3. The operation and supervision of the machines of the simpler type is relatively less
arduous than for other weft knitting machines.
4. The number of garments or panels simultaneously knitted across the machine is
dependent upon its knitting width, yarn carrier arrangement, yarn path and package
accommodation.
Flat Bed Knitting Machine is the most common knitting machine for hobbiests and boutique
producers. It have horizontal needle beds. In previous article, we have discussed about features
of flat bed knitting machine and parts of flat bed knitting machine.
Flat Bed Knitting Machine:
Flat Bed Knitting Machine produces flat pieces. Most common knitting machine for hobbiests
and boutique producers. Garments produced from a flat bed knitting machine normally have side
seams. ; It is not possible to knit in the round on a flat bed knitting machine. Flat bed knitting
machines cannot work purl stitches or garter stitch automatically. A flat bed knitting machine
comprising a flat elongate bed on which is retained a plurality of parallel, latchable, needles
equally spaced along the length of the bed and each movable relative to the bed in a direction
lengthwise of the needles and transverse of the bed length.
7. Operation Bar: Actuates and stops the carriage. Also used for clearing operation errors.
11. Side Tension Equipment: Pulls the yarn fed to the feeder to create tension as tension
equipment does.
13. Controller: Loads knitting data for floppy disk and command the machine to execute the
data. Modifying and inputting data are available in controller.
14. Lock Lever: By execute this lever, the sub roller is pressed and comes into contact with the
main roller. Pull the lever toward you to release the sub roller from the main roller. Press the
lever downward to engage the sub roller.
15. Main Power Switch: Cuts off power supply. This switch has emergency stop function. In
case of an emergency, turn this switch off.
16. Oil Pump: Supplies oil to the brush holder and the racking side plate.
17. Breaker Switch: This protects the machine from odd power source to the turned off
automatically. The breaker switch is back side of controller.
Now we highlighted main parts of flat bed m/c and their identification and function.
Tension Equipment:
Photo: Schematic Diagram of Tension Equipment.
1. Knot catcher adjust dial (1) -Dial for adjusting the knot catcher to the larger knots.
2. Knot catcher adjust dial (2) - Dial for adjusting the knot catcher to the smaller knots.
3. Knot catcher (a) - Detect for knot and stop the carriage.
4. Knot catcher (b) - Detect for knot. Carriage moves in low speed from the course to the line set in
the screen. When a small knot is detected.
5. Tension disk – Adjusts tension of the yarn.
6. Yarn guide plate – Guides the yarn to the knot catcher rightly.
7. Tension – Detect breakage of the yarn.
Carriage:
Photo: Schematic Diagram of Carriage.
1. Needle bed – Needles, jack, select jack and selector are arranged on this needle bed.
2. Carriage rail – Rail for the carriage.
3. Needle selection gauge.
4. Clear brush.
Racking Device:
Photo: Schematic Diagram of Racking Device.
1. Ball screw unit – converts the revolution of the racking motor to lateral motion to the needle
bed.
2. Main motor – control the carriage.
3. Racking motor – used to rack the needle bed.
4. Oil pump – Supplies oil to brush holder and racking slide plate.
Figure.A: Shows the cross-section of the knitting head containing the following
elements:
5.
A. Bearded needle, having a cranked end for location in the tricked and drilled needle
bar.
B. Sinker – only one between every other needle space – with a reinforced back and, at
the front, a ‘catch’ to sink the yarn around the needles, and a ‘neb’ to separate the old and
new loops until knock-over.
C. Divider, occupying each remaining space, usually having the same shaped front as the
sinker but with an extended tail at the back.
D. Knocking-over bit – one directly beneath each sinker and divider – having a ‘throat’
for holding the loops and a ‘nose’ for knocking-over.
F. Striking jack, fulcrummed at its lower end, each one with its ‘nose’ resting on a
sinker back, and a ‘spring’ exerting pressure on its ‘tail’.
G. Catch bar, extending the full width of the knitting head, having forward and
backward, as well as vertical, movement.
H. Yarn carrier, which traverses in alternate directions across the head from one course
to the next – up to six carriers may be available.The carrier is connected to a
reciprocating carrier rail by friction, and when the carrier is arrested by its carrier stop,
the carrier rail completes its full traverse, driven by the coulier cam and punching through
the carrier friction.
J. Falling bar, which is a stop that cushions the advance of the sinkers and dividers.
Knitting Cycle of the Bearded Needle Tricot Machine
Figure.A: illustrates the knitting cycle of the bearded needle tricot machine
1. The rest position (a). The needles have risen to 2/3 of their full height from knock-over and
have their beards towards the back of the machine.The presser is withdrawn and the guides are at
the front of the machine with the sinkers forward, holding the old overlaps in their throats so that
they are maintained at the correct height on the needle stems.
2. Backward swing and overlap shog (b, c). After swinging through the needles to the beard
side, the guides are overlapped across the beards, usually by one needle space in opposite
directions.
3. The return swing and second rise (c, d). As the guides swing to the front, the needles rise to
their full height so that the newly-formed overlaps slip off the beards onto the stems above the
old overlaps. This arrangement reduces the amount of guide-bar swing necessary and therefore
the time required.
4. Pressing (e). The needle bar descends so that the open beards cover the new overlaps. There is
a slight pause whilst the presser advances and closes the beards.
5. Landing (f). As the sinkers withdraw, the upward curve of their bellies lands the old overlaps
onto the closed beards.
6. Knock-over and underlap shog (g). The presser is withdrawn and the continued descent of
the needle bar causes the old overlaps to be knocked-over as the heads of the needles descend
below the upper surface of the sinker bellies. The underlap shog which can occur at any time
between pressing and knock-over usually occurs in opposite directions on the two guide bars.
7. The sinkers now move forward to hold down the fabric loops and push them away from the
ascending needles, which are rising to the rest position
Knitting Elements of a Crochet Machine
A single horizontal needle bar whose simple reciprocating action can be used to operate
individually-tricked latch, carbine or embroidery needles. The patent or carbine bearded
needle is used for fine structures and has a sideways crimped beard placed in a
permanently-pressed position. Although warp threads can only be fed into the beard from
the left (necessitating a unidirec-tional closed overlap), the old overlaps are automatically
cleared and landed by the movement of the needle. It is still the most frequently used
needle, achieving speeds up to 2500 rpm. Reduced machine speed and high needle wear
make its use uneconomical for knitting single end cotton yarns.
No sinkers; instead a fixed hold-back bar is fitted in front of the knock-over verge to
prevent the fabric moving out with the needles.
Knitting Elements of a Crochet Machine
Closed lap pillar stitches and inlay threads controlled and supplied as separate warp and
weft respectively. Each needle is lapped from below by its own warp guide, which is
clipped to a bar whose automatic one-needle overlap and return and underlap shog is
fixed and is controlled from an eccentric cam whilst its upwards and downwards swing is
derived from a rocker-shaft. The warp yarn is often placed low at the front of the
machine.
The weft yarn, often placed above and towards the back of the machine, supplying the
carrier tubes, which are clipped to the spring-loaded inlay bars.These bars are fitted
above the needle bar and are shogged at the rate of one link per course, from pattern
chains around a drum at one end of the machine.There are usually up to two warp guide
bars and up to 16 weft inlay bars, which may be electronically controlled.
Special attachments are available for producing fancy effects such as cut or uncut fringe
edges, pile, braiding (equivalent to fall-plate) and snail shell designs.
Crochet machines, with their simple construction, ease of pattern and width changing, and use of
individual yarn packages or beams provide the opportunity for short runs on coarse- or fine-
gauge fancy and open-work structures and edgings, as well as the specialist production of wide
fancy fabrics or narrow elastic laces
Experiment name: Study on yarn to fabric path diagram of Tricot warp knitting
machine.
Introduction:
Warp knitting m/c is one kind of flat bed m/c. This m/c produces the knitted loops in wales
direction. There are two major classes of warp knitting m/c. They are the ‘Tricot’ & the
‘Raschel’ warp knitting m/c. The ‘Tricot’ warp knitting m/c is also termed as automatic warp
knitting of its function.
Objectives:
1. To know about the yarn to fabric path diagram of Tricot warp knitting machine.
2. To know about the name of the differents parts of the machine.
1. Compound needle.
2. Needle bar
3. Guide bar
4. Sinker& sinker bar
5. Sliding latch
6. Sliding latch bar
7. Comb
8. Cloth roller.
9. Link
10. Rocker shaft
11. Pattern chain.
12. Pattern drum.
13. Main shaft.
14. Intermediate shaft.
15. Let-off mechanism
16. Take-up mechanism.
17. Machine A/C.
18. Toothed belt/ Timing belt.
19. Warp beam.
20. Bottom Beam.
M/C specification:
1. Brand: LIBA
2. Origin: W. Germany
3. Manufacturing Company: MASCHINEN FABRIK, NAILA.
4. Manufacturing Year: 1991
5. Width: 84 inch/ 213 cm
6. Type: COP 2K
7. Gauge: 28
M/C Description:
Compound needle is used in the m/c. With the help of the pattern drum and the chain link the
patterning is done. The gears are merged in oil bath for smooth operation. There are two back
beam for yarn supply. The yarns come through guide bar and through the needle the cloth is take
down by cloth roller
Function of different parts of M/C:
1. Compound needle: In Tricot warp knitting m/c compound needle is used. To form loop and
produce the fabric is the main function of the needle.
2. Needle bar: A needle bar is used in this m/c. The main function of it is to hold the needles
together and helps the needles to move unison while loop forming.
3. Guide bar: Guide bar is used in this m/c to guide the yarn properly to the needle. It feeds the
yarn around the needle and controls the rate of warp feed from the warp beam by making lapping
movement.
4. Sinker and Sinker bar: In the tricot warp knitting m/c tricot sinker is used to hold down the
loops produced by the needles. The sinker bar keeps the sinkers together to move unison while
knitting. The main function of the sinker is to hold down, knock over and supporting the fabric
loops.
5. Sliding latch: In warp knitting m/c compound needles are used. A sliding latch is used here to
close the hook while knitting.
6. Sliding latch bar: In warp knitting m/c the sliding latches remain unison. The latch bar keeps
the latches together and helps it to move unison while knitting.
8. Let-off mechanism: The process of releasing the warp yarns according to the requirement of
the m/c and speed of cloth roller is the main function of let-off mechanism.
9. Take up mechanism: It helps the produced fabric to wound on the cloth roller
in proper tension. There are 3 take-up r/r in this m/c. It also gives proper tension to the warp
sheet and controls the speed of warp beam.
11. Link: In the warp knitting m/c the link is used to make design in the knitted fabric. The
different links used here has different thickness and thus it helps to produce design.
12. Pattern chain: The pattern chain is the chain of links joined with each other. The pattern
chain helps the m/c to produce design.
13. Pattern drum: It is a drum, which gives motion to the pattern chain. There are groove on it
and the pattern chain is placed on it. It gets motion from the m/c driving motor through gearing.
14. Comb: In this warp knitting m/c the comb is used to separate the warp yarns coming from the
warp beam. It works as the reeds of the weaving m/c and also controls the fabric width.
15. Warp beam: In tricot warp knitting m/c warp beam is used to supply the warp yarns parallely.
There are 8-warp beam in this m/c. 4 beam are on the upper side and 4 are to the downside.
These beams are not so big as the weavers beam.
15. Machine A/C: The m/c a/c is one kind of cooling device, which keeps the m/c parts and the
motor from over heating and damage while running continuously.
16. Main shaft: The main shaft of this m/c gives the m/c motion from the motor.
18. Controlling unit: The controlling unit is used to control the m/c easily. It has a digital control
unit.
19. Toothed belt: In this m/c the toothed belts are used to transfer motion without any slippage
Machine description:
The machine is driven by an electric motor. Motion is transferred to the machine parts by gear
and toothed belt. Here weft yarn guide bar gives to and fro motion and shogging motion.
Shogging motion lever give motion to the weft yarn guide bar. Shogging motion is driven from
motor by main shaft. Needle bar and warp yarn guide bar also give to and fro and shogging
motion by the same mechanism.Take up roller has ratchet wheel, by which take up roller gets
motion from the motor by pushing pawl amd some mechanism.
Conclusion:
First of all I would like to offer my heartily thanks to our supervising tutor and the lab assistants
for their consistent help to complete the study properly. Crotchet knitting machine is one of the
most important knitting machines to produce knitted fabric