APH 302

Rabbit Production

By Dr. O.M. Sogunle

 Introduction
 About 66 varieties of the domesticated rabbit are derived from a wild rabbit native to Europe and
Africa.
 Examples of the varieties include: Angora, Belgian, Dutch, Himalayan, lop, Siberian,
Patagonian, silver-tip, Polish, and Flemish.
Characteristics include:
1. Varying colours through every grade, shade, and mixture, from pure white to all black; in coat
from very short to long.
2. Silky hair capable of being woven.
3. Style of ears from the prick ear—erect, small and almost as stiff as metal—to the floppy, broad,
soft-skinned lopped ear, which hangs to the ground.
 Domestic rabbits warn one another of danger by thumping on the ground with their hind feet.
 They are bred as pets, for genetic studies, for laboratory experimentation, and for their meat
and furs.
 Rabbits' furs are sold under the trade names of arctic seal, clipped seal, and lapin.
Rabbits belong to the family Leporidae of the order Lagomorpha. The w ild rabbit of Europe and
Africa as Oryctolagus cuniculus.
Reasons for keeping Rabbits
 The meat is tasty, good quality and similar to chicken meat.
 There are few religious or other taboos on rabbit meat. Islam does not prohibit
eating rabbit meat.
 Initial capital outlay is minimal. With some scrap wood or bamboo, a hutch can be
constructed.
 They are like other animals all over the world used as a saving account.
 The quantity of meat provided by a rabbit is big enough for a small party or a family
dish.
 Because the does produce offspring regularly they form a regular source of
income instead of a large amount at once.
 Feeding rabbits can be very cheap. Kitchen wastes can provide the main feed at
almost no cost.
 Rabbits require no force to be restrained which is unlike bigger animals.
 The manure (which does not smell too much) can be used for vegetable growing.
 The skin ‘pelt’ is valuable if there is market for it.
Disadvantages of Keeping Rabbits

 Keeping rabbits will certainly take up some of ones time. For

example, keeping 5 to 10 rabbits will take 1 to 2 hours a day for
cleaning and feeding.
 Diseases are common and unlike chickens, specific rabbit medicines
are not easily available.

Breeds of Rabbits:
 Chinchilla, Flemish giant, Angora, New Zealand Red, Florida White,
Dutch, California White, etc.
Subdivisions of the Breeds:
1. Fancy and Fur Breed
2. Meat Breed
Characteristics of the Breeds
1. Fancy and Fur Breed:
 Not a good meat producer
 Do not have large litter size
 Not resistant to diseases
 Have nice skins (pelts), nice colours and funny ears. An Example is
Angora.

2. Meat Breed
 Called utility breed: have fast growth rate, large and frequent litter.
 Differentiated on weight basis as
1. Light breed ( 2-3kg adult weight)
2. Medium breed (3-5kg adult weight)
3. Heavy breed (>5kg adult weight)
Sexing of Rabbits
• Sexing of very young rabbit is not easy.

Procedures:
1. For Buck: Older bucks have two visible *testes. For young buck, hold the
rabbit on his back down, put one finger on the tail side of the genital
apparatus and one on the abdominal side. Press down gently and stretch
the organ, if a small curved penis shows, it is a buck.
*Do not confuse two small glands about the size of a pinhead on either
side of the sexual organ with the testes.

2. For Doe: Hold the rabbit on his back down, put one finger on the tail side
of the genital apparatus and one on the abdominal side. Press down
gently and stretch the organ, if a long slit appears, it is a doe.
Pictures on the sexes of rabbits
Selection of Stock
• The selection criteria hinge on the health of the rabbit.
These are:
 Smooth skin
 Standing ears
 Clear eyes
 Quiet breathing
 No mange: forming scabs around the nose, eyes, at the
edges of the ears or inside the ears

NB. Put the rabbit on the ground and let them jump to watch for irregular legs,
inspect the anus to see if its dirty from diarrhoea. Dirty front legs and/or dirty
nose may indicate a coughing disease (pasteurellose).
 Reproduction: Mating & Kindling
• The Buck
 Age of first mating is dependent on the breed and individual development e.g. 4-5months for light breeds
and 9-12months for heavy breeds.
 One buck can easily handle up to 10 or more does. This depends on mating intensity, heat, stress, age of
the buck, nutrition, etc.
 The buck’s hutch is at a distance from the doe so they will not get accustomed to each other’s smell.

• The Doe
 This requires more care and attention.
 Age of first mating is also dependent on the breed and individual development e.g. 4-5 months for light
breed and 7-9 months for heavy breed.
 Note that does mature earlier than the bucks.
 Does do not have clear reproductive cycle though exhibits periods of greater willingness to accept the
buck. However, the buck is refused sometimes.
 Signs of heat are: restlessness, noisiness, rubbing of her chin on the feeding tray and reddish vulva.

NB. Do not wait for these signs, put the doe with the buck at any time (early morning or late
afternoon) since the doe experiences spontaneous ovulation after mating
Mating
 Mating should be carried out during the cooler times of the day; early morning or late afternoon
 Take the doe to the buck and not the other way. If you put the buck in the hutch of the doe, she tends
to defend her territory and fighting ensues.
 Once the doe accepts the buck, she will sit down in his hutch and raise her rear end.
 Mating has taken place when the male falls aside or backwards after mounting the doe. Often the buck
makes a characteristic cry of pain or pleasure. If the doe is willing to be mated, effective mating
takes place within the first 5-15minutes.
 If mating was successful, carefully take the doe back to her hutch.
 If a buck shows no interest within the first few minutes, it is virtually no use leaving them together.
 If the doe begins to run or fight, it is better to try it again after a few hours, the next morning or
evening.

NB. If the doe refuses the buck, it could be that she is pregnant. She w ill almost
certainly refuse the buck then and each time she is bothered it w ill reduce the
chances of a good litter. Also, there might be antipathy betw een the buck and
the doe.
Pregnancy & Signs of Pregnancy

• Two weeks after mating, it will be noticed that the doe will become quieter, seems to
eat less and sits with her abdomen resting nicely on the floor.
• She will start pulling out her fur to make a nest few days to ‘kindling’ (act of giving
birth in rabbit)
• Sometimes she fails to produce a litter after making a nest. If this happens about 2
weeks after mating, it is called ‘pseudo pregnancy’. This is a perfect time to breed
her, she is willing and fertile right at the time of pseudo pregnancy.

Signs of Pregnancy: Requires some practice but there are some fairly clear signs:
i. Her fur can easily be pulled out if she is pregnant.
ii. During the last days of pregnancy, the teats become harder and somewhat red.
iii. The udder will begin to swell
Methods of detecting Pregnancy

• The best method is ‘palpation’ but it requires a great deal of practice.

 Once the doe is pregnant, after two weeks one will feel hard things like marbles in the
upper side of the abdomen. These become progressively larger until one might be
able to feel the form of an embryo.

• Another method is ‘test mating’.

 This is done by putting the doe with the buck again 12 days after mating. If she
refuses, the first mating has almost certainly worked out well. If she is willing again,
the buck can repeat the servicing. This method has the very small risk that an
already pregnant doe gets mated again w ith the possibility of starting another
pregnancy halfw ay through the first. This ‘super pregnancy’ occurs
occasionally.
Kindling & Mother Care
• About 4 weeks after mating (ascertained that the doe is pregnant), a nest box is put
in the maternity hutch in which kindling can take place.
• The doe should be fed appropriately and allowed time to rest.

• Reasons for Cannibalism (flesh eating) in Rabbits

 A scared doe may eat her young
 No drinking water, lack of mineral salts, etc.
NB. If a doe continues to eat her young after the second litter, it is better to kill her and
eliminate this bad behaviour.
Handling of Kits
 To handle the newborn, wash your hands first since the smell of dogs, cats or
rodents may upset the mother. You will need to rob your palm with onions or spread
sweet smelling powder on the kits and on the nose of the mother.
 After about 3 weeks, the nest box can easily be removed. Weaning takes 4 weeks but
should not be later than 6 weeks. Milk production by the mother stops at this time.
Mating after Kindling, Raising the Kits & Fostering

• Mating after Kindling

• The doe can be re-mated the very day of kindling and she is likely to be pregnant.
Though, results might be disappointing e.g. the litter will be smaller, lighter and with a
higher rate of mortality.
• It is better to re –mate 3-4 w eeks after kindling.
NB. It is advisable to mate tw o does at the same time because of fostering.
• Raising the Kits
I. Clean the hutches every day with water.
II. Handle the kits in the proper way.
III. Separate the bucks fro m the does as soon as possible after weaning.
IV. After mating the first time, each doe should be given separate hutch.
• Fostering: No more than 3 young rabbits should be given to a foster mother, the
maximum age difference between the foster doe’s litter and the fostered litter
should be 48hours; and fostering should be within 5days of kindling.
Housing
• There are two main types of housing in rabbitry, viz.;
1. A main building known as ‘Stable’
2. Individual Hutches

The Stable: the main building under which the hutches are placed. It is constructed with
the following in mind:
A. Rain: Designs depend on the wind direction. A large overhang is made to prevent rain
and sunshine. The walls may be closed or open.
B. Temperature: Extremes of temperature can be tempered mainly by planting trees
around the stable in order to decrease the amount of heat that enters, provide
shade and lessen the impact of rain and wind.
C. Humidity and Fresh air: Warm air ventilation holes might be necessary if there is
not much wind blowing. Avoiding piling up manure and urine around the stable.
The Individual Hutches
• These are needed whether there is a stable or not.
• Many designs are possible but the following should be taken into account:
 A favourable microclimate
 Protection from predators
 Easy handling
 Easy to keep clean
NB. Each rabbit needs 0.7sqm cage space. The standard size is 75cm depth x 75cm front width. The
cages are arranged in double rows (3m space) down the centre of the stable
The Maternity Hutch & Nest Box
The maternity hutch houses the nest box. It is larger than the individual hutch.
The nest box could be; open-type, half-open or close-type nest boxes.
Sizes of the nest box vary with the size of the breed.
Breed type L1 (cm) L2 (cm) W (cm) H1 (cm) H2 (cm)
Medium breed 40 25 30 25 10
Large breed 45 30 35 25 15
Water Requirement & Feeding
• With proper care and equipment, clean water should be and can become a routine.
• One watering point is sufficient for 10 to 15 rabbits.
Term paper: Describe the various feeding and drinking equipment used in rabbit production
(Photographs needed)
Feeding
Proper feeding will influence the rabbit’s growth, fertility and health.
It depends on the sate of production.
One feeding rack is enough for 10 rabbits, at most two are needed in case the pellet flow in one gets blocked.
The suggested daily portion is as shown below:
Class of rabbit Quantity (g)
Buck 85-112
Doe 85-112
*Pregnant doe 168-224
Lactating doe ≤454
Fryer Ad libitum
*Increase gradually throughout pregnancy
Practical Remarks on Feeding

Do not change feed suddenly.

Do not get desperate if animals don’t like seemingly good feed at
first glance.
Greens should not be too wet to avoid diarrhoea.
Do not feed more than they will eat. Remove old mouldy/dusty
feed.
Cooking the feed will probably not justify the effort.
A good feeding method is to give concentrate during the day and
feed greens overnight. This is done to avoid attracting rats
during the night time.
Types of feed

• Aside balanced pelleted feed which contains 3-35g DM per kg of live weight per day
given to the rabbit, the following wild and cultivated plants are suitable for rabbit feed:
 Amaranthus spp. Mimosa pigra
 Arachis hypogea Panicum maximum, etc.
 Cocos nucifera
 Daucus carota
 Ipomea batatas
 Leucaena leucocephala
 Tridax procumbens
 Sorghum vulgare
 Vigna sinensis
 Zea mays
 Solanum tuberosum
Handling of Rabbits
 Rabbits should be handled gently. They must never be lifted by their ears.
 A rabbit can always be picked up by the skin of the shoulders.
 For rabbits weighing under 1kg, one method is to pick them up and carry them
by the saddle just above the hindquarters, using thumb and index finger (see
picture in the next slide).
 If the rabbit is heavier, it is best to take it by the skin fold around the
shoulders, but if it has to be transported or shifted for more than 5 or
10minutes, it either be supported with the other hand or be carried on the
forearm with the head in the bend of the elbow (see picture in the next slide).
 If it struggles and cannot be controlled, it is best to just drop it so it will fall
on all fours and then pick it up again within 2-3seconds.
Pictures on how to handle rabbits
How to handle rabbits
Identification of Rabbits

 Individual Identification:
Each rabbit is assigned a number which will appear on all documents concerning the
rabbit and on the rabbit itself. Ways of identifying individual rabbit are:
o Rings: a numbered ring is attached to the hind leg just above the hock. The risk of losing
the ring is high.
o Clips: numbered clips are attached to the rabbits’ ears. These clips are made of metal or
plastic. The risk of losing these clips is also high.
o Tattooing: Small holes are punched in the rabbits ear spelling out numbers or letters, and
these are filled by rubbing in a special ink. A well made tattoo lasts throughout the
rabbits’ lifetime.
 Cage Identification:
All the cages in the nursery section of the management unit (mother cage) is numbered
and this number appears on the records. It is much easier than the individual method and
it is used on rabbit farms which keep records but do not breed selectively.
Record Keeping

• A daily record book is essential in almost every kind of production.

• The record to be kept include:
1. Breeding records: date bred and breed used, buck and does bred.
2. Kindling records: Does that kindled, date and number kindled (numerical
size of the litter), number alive and number dead.
3. Weaning records: number of weaned rabbits, date and weight of weaned
rabbits.
4. Record of sales: Average weight at market time and age of kit at the
weight, expenditure (including utilities) and income.
Coprophagy in Rabbits
• This is a phenomenon practiced by the rabbits. It is the consumption of soft faecal
pellets and in which the rabbit recirculates a part of the feed through the body. This
is made possible by its possession of large hind gut ‘Caecum’.
• Rabbits are thereby referred to as ‘pseudoruminant’
• This phenomenon depends on the integrity of the digestive flora and is governed by
intake rate. It begins about 8-12hours after the feeding of rationed rabbit,s or after
intake peak of rabbits fed ad-libitum.
• It begins to function in young rabbits (domesticated or wild) at the age of about
3weeks when the start eating solid feed in addition to mother’s milk.
• Considering the fact that some parts of the intake may be recycled once, twice and
even three or four times and depending on the type of feed, the rabbit’s digestive
process lasts from 18 to 30 hours averaging 20hours.
Common Diseases of Rabbits
 Foot Pad abscesses: this starts as a barely visible swelling which can be felt by
palpating. The skin becomes thick (parakeratosis) and scabby. Infection is latent and the
sores may bleed.
 Buck Teeth: This prevents the upper and lower incisors from touching and so they do not
wear down. The incisors keep growing and eventually prevent the rabbit from eating.
Buck teeth may be hereditary (jaw malformation) or the results of injury (teeth broken
against wire mesh). Treatment consists of cutting the teeth with sharp pliers right down
to the gums every 15-21 days.
 Ear and Skin Mange: (Mange is a parasitic disease caused by mites (Psoroptes and
Chorioptes) and frequently complicated by bacterial infection. The middle ear may then
be affected, causing ‘w ryneck’.
 Ear canker or mange is very common. The symptoms are external otitis and yellow or
brown scabs in the ear canal. The scabs become waxy and invade the whole ear. The
inside of the ear becomes scaly. Treatment with glycerine, iodized oil, cresol oil are
effective with frequent application.
 Skin mange is less common. It is only found in poorly- managed rabbit farm.
 Good luck to you
‘A CANDLE LOSES NOTHING BY LIGHTING
ANOTHER CANDLE’