HM Chemical Restrictions Part 3

CONTENTS
Introduction ....................................................................................................... 3
Description and Field of Application of the Restricted Substances ...................... 4
Communication along the Supply Chain ............................................................ 13
Chemical Testing .............................................................................................. 14

Supplier Chemical Testing and Testing according to Risk Assessment .......................14
Non Compliance.................................................................................................14
How to choose Labs for Chemical Tests ................................................................14
Guide for Chemical Testing .................................................................................15
Frequently Asked Questions ............................................................................. 16

H&M Chemical Restrictions ..................................................................................16
H&M Contacts....................................................................................................17
Testing and Test Methods ...................................................................................18
Appendix 1. Safety Data Sheet (SDS) .............................................................. 19
Appendix 2. Labelling of Chemical Products .................................................... 20
Appendix 3. Compliance Certificate ................................................................. 21
H&M Implementation Toolkit for H&M Chemical Restrictions – 2(21)

Apparel/Accessories/Footwear/Soft Products, 8 July 2013
INTRODUCTION
H&M Implementation Toolkit for H&M Chemical Restrictions – Apparel/Accessories/

Footwear/Soft Products should be a help for suppliers to work proactively with fulfilling
H&M Chemical Restrictions, Part 3: Apparel/Accessories/Footwear/Soft Products 1. It
contains information about restricted substances, chemical testing, frequently asked
questions, documentation and test methods.
The information in this document does not claim to be complete. The suppliers have the
responsibility to make sure that all products supplied to H&M group fully comply with the
latest version of H&M Chemical Restrictions. This is committed by accepting H&M
Standard Purchase Conditions (SPC)1.
See the table below to find your local contact for any issues regarding chemistry.
Country / City E-mail
Bangladesh / Dhaka [email protected]
China / Hong Kong [email protected]
China / Shanghai [email protected]

apparel /soft products
China / Shanghai [email protected]

accessories / footwear
India / New Delhi [email protected]
India / Bangalore [email protected]
Indonesia / Jakarta [email protected]
Korea / Seoul [email protected]
Pakistan / Karachi [email protected]
Romania / Bucharest [email protected]
Turkey / Istanbul [email protected]
If you have technical questions regarding H&M Chemical Restrictions, its future
development, test methods or the background for the restrictions, please contact H&M
Global Quality department. See below for contact information:
Country / City E-mail / Phone
Sweden / Stockholm [email protected]

Phone: + 46 8 796 55 00
1
Download the document at H&M Group Supplier Portal.

DESCRIPTION AND FIELD OF APPLICATION OF THE RESTRICTED
SUBSTANCES
Below table gives information about the field of application and description of the
restricted substances. This information is of use in the proactive work on how to avoid
restricted substances.
The table below does not claim to be complete; there might be other fields of application
for a substance than mentioned.
Restricted Description and Field of Application

Substances
Alkylphenol Alkylphenolethoxylates (APEOs) is a group of non-ionic
Ethoxylates/ surfactants including: Nonylphenolethoxylates (NPEs),
Alkylphenols (APEO/AP) Nonylphenol (NP), Octylphenoletoxylates (OPEs) and
Octylphenol (OP). NPEs and OPEs degrade to NP and OP
respectively.
APEOs can be used in for example:

Detergents
Scouring agents
Wetting agents
Softeners
Emulsifier/dispersing agents
Impregnating agents
Degreasing agents for leather
Finishing
De-gumming for silk production
Dyes and pigment preparations
Bisphenol-A (BPA) Bisphenol A (A=acetone) (BPA) occurs in its pure form as white
flakes with a faint phenol-like smell. It is used in the production
of epoxy resins and polycarbonate plastics. It can be used in
production of flame retardants and in PVC production and
processing.
Cationic Surfactants Distearyldimethyl ammouniumchloride (DSDMAC),

(DSDMAC, DTDMAC, Ditallowdimethylammonium (DTDMAC) and Di(hydrogenated
DHTDMAC) tallow)dimethylammonium chloride (DHTDMAC) belongs to the
group “quarternary ammonium salts” and is used as cationic
surfactants.
DSDMAC, DTDMAC, DHTDMAC are used in processes/products

as:
Levelling agents (Retarders) for Basic (cationic) dyes, that are
mostly used for acrylic fibres
Fixation of Direct dyes, that are mostly used for cotton, rayon
(viscose), linen, silk and polyamide
Surfactants
Emulsifier
Antistatic agents
Softeners
Water repellent agents

Substances
Chlorinated Bleaching Chlorinated Bleaching Agents are used for bleaching textiles,
Agents and paper etc.
Textiles
Chlorine dioxide (ClO2), sodium hypochlorite (NaClO) and
calcium hypochlorite (Ca(ClO)2).
Paper
Chlorine gas (Cl2) and chlorine dioxide (ClO2).
Chlorinated Aromatic Chlorinated aromatic hydrocarbons are used as carriers in the

Hydrocarbons dyeing process of polyester or wool/polyester fibres. They can
also be used as solvents.
Chloroparaffins Chloroparaffins are hydrocarbons with a straight carbon chain.

Short chained (SCCPs) They can be used as flame retardants or as fat liquoring of
leather.
Chloroparaffins Medium
chained (MCCPs)
Chromium VI (Cr6+) Chromium is used in leather tanning and can be oxidised into
Cr6+.
Free CrIII from the leather tanning shall be washed away as

thorough as possible.
To avoid oxidation of free CrIII into CrVI, e.g. during shipment,

the finished product should have a reductive capacity. This
could be accomplished by using products with
reducing/buffering effect.
An aging test must be performed before analysing CrVI on the

leather. The aging test simulates transportation.
Dimethylformamide Dimethylformamide is a solvent used in plastics and in rubber.

(DMF) It has a strong smell also in the finished product. Water based
PU does not contain Dimethylformamide and is therefore
preferable.
Dimethylfumarate Dimethylfumarate is an anti mould agent used in sachets in

(DMFu) packaging.
Dyes
AZO Dyes and Azo dyes and pigments are colorants which molecular structure
Pigments include a so called azo-bond, which is two nitrogen atoms with
a double bond between them (N=N).
Some azo dyes can split of one or more of the aromatic amines
listed in H&M Chemical Restrictions through cleavage of the azo
bond (N=N).
Disperse Dyes Disperse dyes are molecules that can penetrate the fibre
system of polyester. It is not chemically bonded to the
polyester fibre but trapped inside the fibre by physical forces.

Substances
Other Azo Dyes Azo dyes are colorants which molecular structure include a so
called azo-bond, which is two nitrogen atoms with a double
bond between them (N=N).
These azo dyes are regulated as dye compounds and not as
aromatic amines (that are cleavage products).
Other Dyes For dyeing textiles and other materials.
Dye related compounds These compounds could be used when dyeing or occur as an
impurity in the dye stuff.
Flame Retardants Flame retardants are used to decrease the flammability of the
product, by for example lowering the energy (heat) of the
flame.
Formaldehyde Formaldehyde is a volatile, colourless gas that is present in

small amounts in the atmosphere, tobacco smoke, glue, air
pollution etc. Due to its volatility, formaldehyde is
“contagious”. If you place a garment with formaldehyde on top
of a garment that does not contain formaldehyde, the other
garment may become “infected”. Fabric samples for testing
need to be packed separately in plastic bags.
Formaldehyde/ formaldehyde releasing compounds can be

applied for:
Dimensional stability control (i.e. Pre-shrinkage)
Easy-care
Crinkle treatment
Fixation or preservation of dyes and prints
Adhesives for flock prints
Binders for pigment prints
Fluorescent dyes and pigments
Isocyanates Isocyanates are used in the production of polyurethane plastics

and foams. When testing PU for Isocyanates it is important to
follow the standard method, since certain conditions result in
false positives.
Metals
Antimony (Sb) Antimony is a half-metal element. It can be present as a pure
metal, as non-metal or as Antimony compounds e.g. salts.
Antimony can be used as:

Catalyst in polymerisation of polyester
Flame retardants
Fixing agents
Pigments
Alloys

Substances
Arsenic (As) Arsenic is a half-metal element. It can be present as a pure
metal, as non-metal or as Arsenic compounds e.g. salts.
Arsenic and its compounds can be used in some preservatives,

pesticides and defoliants for cotton.
Cadmium (Cd) Cadmium is a metal element that can be present as a pure

metal or as Cadmium compounds e.g. salts.
Cadmium compounds can be used in some pigments and as

stabiliser for PVC plastic. Cadmium compounds have been
found in fertilisers and biocides. Cadmium metal can be used in
alloys and for plating of other metals. Cadmium compounds
can be used in paints, e.g. surface paints on zippers and
buttons.
Chromium (Cr) Chromium is a metal element that can be present as a pure

metal or as Chromium compounds e.g. salts. (See also
Chromium VI).
Chromium compounds can be used as:

Dyeing additives
Dye-fixing agents
After-treatments to improve colour fastness
Dyes for wool, silk and polyamide (especially dark shades)
Tanning of leather
Most Cr containing dyes can be put in one of the following

categories:
Metal complex dyes
• 1:1 metal complex
• 2:1 metal complex
Mordant dyes
• Metachrome
• After-chrome
Textile (except polyamide, polyamide blends & worsted wool)

• Never use dyes based on, or containing Cr. Never use
Cr-fixation of dyes (Mordant dyes).
Polyamide, polyamide blends and worsted wool

• Most important for dark shades
• Consult your dye stuff supplier to make sure the dye is
bound strongly enough and that you’re not using more
Cr than needed
There are reactive dyes and acid dyes suitable for the critical
fibres. Preferred dyes depend on the colour and the fibre.

Substances
Cobalt (Co) Cobalt is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal
or as Cobalt compounds e.g. salts.
Cobalt compounds can be used as pigments and in dyestuff.

Cobalt metal can be used in alloys.
Copper (Cu) Copper is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal
or as Copper compounds e.g. salts.
Copper compounds can be used as pigments and in dyestuff.

Copper metal can be used in alloys.
Lead (Pb) Lead is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal or
as Lead compounds e.g. salts.
Lead compounds can be used as stabilisers for plastics. Paints

and surface coatings for plastic, leather, wood and metal could
contain lead compounds. Examples of coated or painted
products are zippers, beads and buttons. Pigments based on
lead could be used in for example plastic buttons. Lead metal is
used in solder alloys and can be present in other alloys.
Soldering material free or low in lead is always preferable.
Mercury (Hg) Mercury is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal
or as Mercury compounds e.g. salts.
Mercury compounds can be present in pesticides and can be

found as contamination in caustic soda (NaOH). Mercury
compounds can be used in paints, e.g. surface paints on
zippers and buttons.
Nickel (Ni) Nickel is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal
or as Nickel compounds e.g. salts.
Nickel metal is mainly used for plating of alloys, improving the

corrosion resistance in alloys, improving the hardness of alloys
and is a key element in the production of stainless steel.
Certain dyestuffs contain complex-bound Nickel. Both Nickel
metal and Nickel compounds can occur as an impurity in
pigments and alloys.
Mineral Oil Mineral oil could be used as filling liquid for any products like
compasses, snow globes etc.
N-Nitrosamines N-Nitrosamines can be found in rubber.
Octamethylcyclo- Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane can be used in textile softeners.

tetrasiloxane

Substances
Organotin Compounds Organotin compounds are used as / in:
Stabilisers in plastic/rubber
Anti-bacterial agents in textiles
Anti corrosion coatings in drums containing for example
dyestuff.
Catalysts in plastic and glue production
Metallic glitter
Perfluorinated Perfluorinated Compounds are a variety of compounds with the

Compounds common property that the hydrogen on the carbon chain has
been exchanged to fluorine. They might be fully or partially
fluorinated. These compounds are known to be stable, not
sensitive to heat and to reject water and oily compounds.
In this group of substances you find among others; PFOS,

PFOA, Fluorotelomers, the compounds in the C6 and C8
fluorine technology.
In production they are used as water repellent agents, e.g. on

jackets, shower curtains, etc.
Pesticides Compounds used for preventing growth of insects or fungi on

plants, animals or materials. In textile industry they are mainly
used in production and transportation of natural fibres (cotton,
wool).
pH The pH-value represents the acidity/alkalinity. A low value

shows an acidic media and a high value shows an alkaline
media. Fabric samples for testing need to be packed separately
in plastic bags.
Various chemicals and processes in the textile- and garment

production require certain pH-values, e.g. mercerisation and
dyeing of cotton involves the use of chemicals with high pH-
values. Garment washing and finishing will also affect the final
pH-value.
Chlorinated Phenols Pentachlorophenol (PCP) and Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP) can be
used to prevent mould and kill insects when growing cotton
and when storing/transporting fabrics. They can be used for
both textiles and leather. PCP/TeCP can also be used as a
preservative in print pastes.
o-Phenylphenol (OPP) o-Phenylphenol (OPP) can be used for its preservative

properties in leather or as a carrier in dyeing processes.

Substances
Phthalates Phthalates are sometimes used to facilitate moulding of plastic
by decreasing its melting temperature. They are also
commonly used as softeners in plastics.
Phthalates can be found in:

Print pastes
Adhesives
Plastic (not only PVC)
Plastic buttons
Plastic sleevings
Poly Aromatic Polyaromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) are natural components of

Hydrocarbons (PAH) crude oil and they are a common residue from oil refining.
PAHs have a characteristic smell that reminds of the smell of
car tires or asphalt.
Oil residues containing PAHs are added in rubber and plastics

as a softener or extender. Therefore, PAHs are risky in rubber,
plastics, lacquers and coatings.
Clean mineral oils should be used in the rubber to avoid PAHs.
Polychlorinated PCBs and PCTs are large molecules containing many chlorine
Biphenyles (PCBs) atoms. PCBs/PCTs are mainly used as pesticides but also as
softeners, carriers and flame retardants.
Polychlorinated
Triphenyles (PCTs)
Polyvinylchloride (PVC) PVC is a plastic that can be soft or hard, transparent or

coloured.
In the textile industry PVC is used to make plastic accessories

such as badges, sequins and zip pullers, stickers or as coating
on textiles for rainwear and prints. Fake leather bags and
garments can also be made out of PVC. Various kinds of prints
might be made out of PVC.
Triclosan Triclosan can be used as disinfectant and as an antibacterial

agent in textiles.

Additional Description
Requirements
Antibacterial treatment Chemicals added for their ability to kill bacteria. They might be
added to the garment, often sportswear, to prevent smell. The
chemicals can during use and laundry be released and have a
negative environmental impact.
Antibacterial treatments in the finished product for any brand

in H&M group are banned.
Discolouration Some chemicals can react with light, oxygen or solvents and
cause a discolouration of the product.
Phenolic yellowing is when a material under special

circumstances is turning yellow. Risky materials are:
Polyamide and polyamide/elastane blends,

Embroidery
Polyester
Cotton
The main reason is the presence of Butylated HydroxyToluene,

CAS no. 128-37-0. BHT is a chemical which is often present in
plastic bags, elastane, polyurethane foam (e.g. in bras) etc.
BHT is not yellow itself, but it could be converted by pollution
(NOx) assisted by amino groups (e.g. of polyamide, elastane
and softeners) and then become yellow.
Polyamide/elastane blends are especially sensitive and should

be protected by special anti-yellowing chemicals. If done
properly, the fabric will not turn yellow, even if BHT is present.
Heat setting such as moulding of bra cups at high temperature
is a possible risk if the process it not controlled correctly
and/or the fabric is not protected with anti-yellowing
chemicals.
Precautions to be taken
• Avoid mixing many different qualities within one
garment.
• Keep the amount of BHT and similar chemicals at a
minimum in packaging material, polyurethane foam,
polyamide, elastane etc. Investigate the possibility to
find BHT-free foam.
• Treat all parts with anti-yellowing chemical products to
make them less sensitive to phenolic yellowing. Both
white and light coloured fabric/trims shall be treated.
• Make sure to finish the fabric and all trims at a low pH
value using a non-volatile acid, such as citric acid. Final
pH shall be 4.0-5.5.
• All factories and storage facilities must be kept clean
and well ventilated to avoid excess amounts of NOx
(nitrogen oxide gases).
• Avoid leftovers of chlorine after bleaching

Additional Description
Requirements
Mould Mould spores are present everywhere in nature.
Infection of fabrics/yarn/accessories/garments combined with
storage/transportation in a humid and/or dirty environment
can create severe damage on the garments. Mould is
contagious and could infect other goods hanging close to or
lying next to the infected goods.
Keeping storage rooms and production facilities clean is
essential for preventing mould.
Odour Odour can for example derive from:
Solvents
If the product is not aired or rinsed thoroughly, solvents
and/or spot removers might remain in the product and hence
cause smell. To avoid the use of spot removers it is important
to keep the production facilities clean.
Print pastes
White spirit, kerosene and MTO can be used in print pastes. It
is preferred to use only water based print pastes.
PEVA
For PEVA (Poly Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) plastic,
the commonly used cross linker/catalyst DCP
(Dicumyl Peroxide, CAS: 80-43-3) can release the substance
Acetophenon (CAS: 98-86-2) which could give a very strong
smell to the final product.
DCP should not be used. Alternatives are available.
REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and

of the Council concerning the Registration, Evaluation,
Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals.
Check the ECHA website for the updated list 2
2
http://echa.europa.eu/chem_data/authorisation_process/candidate_list_table_en.asp

COMMUNICATION ALONG THE SUPPLY CHAIN
• Forward H&M Chemical Restrictions to all your subcontractors, accessory

suppliers, dye mills, print mills, tanneries, chemical suppliers etc. and make sure
that they have the latest updated version available (see the flow chart below).
H&M SUPPLIER
Chemical
Restrictions CHEMICAL
SUB CONTRACTOR MANUFACTURER
DYER, PRINTER,
TANNER
• Insist that the chemical supplier provide Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for all dyes,
auxiliaries and other chemical products used. SDS shall contain certain specified
information presented in a standardized way. Information about how a SDS should
be structured and what it should contain can be found in Appendix 1.
Study of the SDS can help to reveal whether the materials used are free from
banned substances. However, the content of any banned substances in the chemical
product always need to be verified in other ways, since SDS don’t have complete
information about all ingredients in the chemical product.
• Use dyestuffs, pigments and textile auxiliaries from reputable manufacturers, for
example ETAD members (www.etad.com).
• All chemical products should have properly labelled containers. Example of labelling
requirements can be found in Appendix 2.
• Make sure dye mills, print mills, tanneries, wash units have certificates from their
chemical suppliers stating that all their chemicals are in compliance with H&M
Chemical Restrictions. An example of a certificate is to be found in Appendix 3.
• Check the H&M Group Supplier Portal for “Positive list”. This is a listing done by
chemical suppliers pointing out which of their products that fulfil Zero Discharge of
Hazardous Chemicals, ZDHC 3.
3
“Zero Discharge of Hazardous Substances” is a cooperation between brands to
eliminate or substitute hazardous chemicals in our supply chain. Please see
http://www.roadmaptozero.com/ for more info.

CHEMICAL TESTING
It is clearly stated in H&M Chemical Restrictions that the supplier has full responsibility
for compliance between their products and H&M Chemical Restrictions.
Compliance to the H&M Chemical Restrictions is investigated by H&M Group through

chemical testing. Products to be tested and tests to be performed by H&M Group are
decided by the local H&M lab or by H&M Global Quality Department. Testing is performed
both randomly as well as based on risk assessment and past performance.
H&M Group only performs tests on H&M Group’s own initiative. The supplier pays for
H&M Group’s testing on placed orders. For development testing, H&M Group pays.
Below is a clarification on the routines and responsibilities.
Supplier Chemical Testing and Testing according to Risk Assessment

Suppliers will for each style/order get a risk assessment form filled out by the local H&M
lab. In the risk assessment, there are a number of check boxes for various restricted
chemicals. Suppliers are requested to perform tests for the selected chemicals. If nothing
else has been agreed, test reports should be submitted to H&M Group, together with the
counter sample.
Non Compliance
Any problems to comply with H&M Chemical Restrictions must be reported to H&M Group
immediately. Products that do not comply with H&M Chemical Restrictions will be
rejected. For details, see Standard Purchase Conditions 4.
How to choose Labs for Chemical Tests

Business decisions are based on test results. Therefore it is important that the data from
the laboratories is reliable. Some examples of things to consider when choosing a
laboratory are:
 The lab must hold relevant certifications or accreditations.

 The lab must be able to perform the tests described in Appendix B.3 in H&M
Chemical Restrictions.
 The lab must regularly participate in round-robin or blind sample correlation
testing.
 The lab must have satisfactory runtimes.
 The lab should inform if any of their tests are subcontracted.
4
Download the document at H&M Group Supplier Portal.

Guide for Chemical Testing
The different substances in H&M Chemical Restrictions are more likely to be found in
certain types of materials than others. Below table gives an indication where the
substances are more likely to occur if present.
This table does not claim to be complete.
Material Textile Plastic

Fusing
Rubber
Paper Padding
Paint
Leather Metal & Feather
Natural &
Wood &
Cellulosic Synthetic & Surface
Wool Silk Down
Chemicals fibre fibre Synthetic coating
blend
APEO
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Azo
● ● ● ●
Bisphenol-A
●
Cationic Surfactant
● ●
Chloroparaffins
●
Cr VI
●
Disperse dyes
● ●
Dimethylformamide
●
Formaldehyde
● ● ● ● ● ●5 ● ●
Metals, extractable
● ●
Metals, total
● ● ● ● ●
Nickel release ●
N-Nitrosamines 6
●
Organotin
Compounds ●7
pH
● ●
Phenols 8
● ● ● ●
Phthalates
●
PAH
●9
PVC
●
5
Formaldehyde is especially risky in pigment print, flock print and puff print.
6
N-Nitrosamines are especially risky in vulcanized material eg. rubber, latex and TPE/TPR.
7
Organotin compounds are especially risky in print and PU coated fabric.
8
PCP and TeCP are especially risky in fake suede.
9
Polyaromatic Hydrocarbons, PAHs, are especially risky in rubber.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Do not hesitate to contact H&M Group with any questions you might have. Below are
answers to some of the most frequent questions.
H&M Chemical Restrictions
Why are substances restricted?

First of all to make sure that H&M Group products are complying with all relevant
legislations and regulations within the countries where H&M Group markets products.
Secondly, H&M Group voluntarily bans or limits the use of some substances due to
environmental and health concern.
Will complying with H&M Chemical Restrictions make my products more expensive/less
competitive?
H&M Chemical Restrictions is a part of the contract between H&M Group and its suppliers.
Every time H&M Group places an order, it is expected that the price includes compliance
with H&M Chemical Restrictions. It is not interesting to compare prices between
compliant and non-compliant products, since H&M Group does not wish to buy non-
compliant products, no matter the price.
Is H&M Group recommending alternative substances?

Not generally. In some cases recommended alternatives are however available on
request. If you fear you will not be able to comply with a certain restriction, always
contact your local H&M Group office as early as possible. There might be a solution to
your problem, but you should not rely on that. The best is always if the supplier is
working directly with chemical suppliers to find the best combination of availability,
performance and price.
How can we ensure compliance?

The fastest, cheapest and easiest way is to have total control over the substances used in
the production of your products. H&M Chemical Restrictions must be handed over to your
subcontractors like dye mills, print mills, tanneries etc. They should then demand their
chemical suppliers to supply them only with chemical products that won’t cause
difficulties with complying with H&M Chemical Restrictions. Good chemical suppliers are
able to submit certificates stating that. Furthermore, tests could be carried out for
substances that for some reason are difficult to have control over.
Are there any restrictions for sulphur dyes?

No, but experience show that sulphur dyed fabrics are likely to face problems with
physical tests, e.g. dry rubbing.
Why is it that H&M Group can get a fail test result when our button supplier guarantee
Lead free?
For Lead, H&M is testing the total amount. It might be that your button supplier tests the
extractable amount which is a less strict test. For some eco labels, the requirement is
extractable amount, but H&M’s requirement is for the total amount.
Is it OK to use “ecological” PVC?

No. All PVC is banned from all H&M products. The term ecological PVC generally refers to
PVC which is free from heavy metals and/or other additives.

May I use Cr-dyes for H&M Group products?
There are generally two types of Cr-dyes; metal-complex and mordant dyes. Except for
polyamide, polyamide blends and worsted wool, these dyes may not be used when
producing H&M Group products. In the case of polyamide, polyamide blends and worsted
wool, Cr-dyes may be used as long as H&M Group’s limit for extractable Chromium can
be achieved.
May I use fluorescent dyes and pigments?

Yes, provided that the product can comply with H&M Chemical Restrictions (e.g.
formaldehyde). The production also has to correspond to all H&M Group requirements
and restrictions in all aspects. If you receive a quotation request and have doubts about
this, always contact H&M Group directly.
Are there additional requirements to be followed for organic cotton?

All suppliers of organic cotton products must be certified by OE100 or GOTS and OE
Blend. Contact your local H&M Group office or H&M’s Sustainability department in
Stockholm for more information.
Could soldering add to lead content in jewellery?

Yes, soldering material often contain lead. Lead free soldering materials are available and
recommended to use.
Can I use AFIRM 10 RSL Guidance instead of H&M Chemical Restrictions?

AFIRM RSL Guidance compiles the RSLs (Restricted Substances Lists) of the AFIRM
members. It often stipulates the strictest limit in any of the members RSL, but not
always. No policy decisions like PFC ban or PVC ban are included. Also other parameters
might be excluded. It only gives RSL guidance about apparel and footwear products and
not of any other product types.
All suppliers must comply with H&M Chemical Restrictions, which differs from AFIRM RSL
Guidance.
What is AFIRM Toolkit and where can I find it?

AFIRM Toolkit has been developed by AFIRM to assist the suppliers to fulfil the RSL
requirements. It contains a lot of information about restricted substances, how they can
be eliminated, corrective actions, which substances that are risky in specific materials,
etc. The Toolkit is available in English, Chinese and Vietnamese. You can find the Toolkit
on AFIRM website (free to download):
http://www.afirm-group.com/
What is the purpose of the MRSL and how does it differ from the RSL?
The aim of the MRSL is to secure not only the final product but also the work
environment and environment in the production country.
What is the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Programme?

H&M cooperates with several other brands to drive positive change through eliminating
the use and discharge of hazardous chemicals in the product life cycle. For more
information please see: http://www.roadmaptozero.com/
H&M Contacts
Who do I contact at my local H&M Group office if I have questions?
In the table in the beginning of this document you find contact e-mail addresses for all
different POs for queries about restricted chemicals and tests.
10
AFIRM – Apparel and Footwear International RSL Management Group

Testing and Test Methods
What test methods are to be used?

For each restricted substance in H&M Chemical Restrictions, a test method is defined in
Appendix B.3 in H&M Chemical Restrictions.
What testing is required by H&M Group?

Suppliers will for each placed order get a risk assessment made by local H&M Group’s lab.
On this risk assessment, there is a part consisting of a number of check boxes for various
restricted chemicals. Suppliers are then requested to perform tests for the chemicals and
materials for which boxes are ticked. If nothing else has been agreed on, test reports
should be submitted to H&M Group together with the counter sample.
Is H&M Group testing?

H&M Group only performs tests on H&M Group’s own initiative. Products to be tested and
tests to be performed by H&M Group are decided by the local H&M lab or by H&M Global
Quality Department. Testing is performed both randomly as well as based on risk
assessment and past performance.
The supplier will also be required to carry out its own tests according to a risk
assessment done by local H&M lab.
Who pays for testing?

The supplier pays for H&M Group’s testing on placed orders. For development testing,
H&M Group pays. H&M Group’s testing will be focused on products and suppliers with a
bad test record, which will also be discussed with each supplier. Consequently, suppliers
with good past performance will have to pay very little, but for suppliers with bad test
record, the test cost might be significant.
What happens in the case of contradictory test results?

H&M Group’s test result will prevail.
Are fail test results negotiable?

NO! Any product that fails in a chemical test will be treated as non-compliant, no matter
how close to the limit the result is. Anything else could mean that it would be illegal for
H&M Group to put that product on the market. No exceptions are made.
What laboratories are used by H&M Group?

H&M Group is only using laboratories that through inter laboratory correlation tests have
shown to give similar and accurate test results. These laboratories are able to test
according to required test methods and are aware of H&M Chemical Restrictions.
What happens in the case of non compliance?

Any product that is found to be in non compliance with H&M Chemical Restrictions will be
rejected by H&M Group. The supplier will be claimed for the cost of the products and any
extra costs caused by the non compliance.
If we are Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified, why do we have to comply with H&M
Chemical Restrictions?
The reason for this is that Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and H&M Chemical Restrictions are
NOT the same. The two standards have significant differences. Some chemicals that are
restricted by H&M Group are not included in Oeko-Tex Standard 100, and for other
chemicals, the limits and/or test methods might differ.

APPENDIX 1. SAFETY DATA SHEET (SDS)
The SDS for a chemical product should have a structure and content as specified in
Article 31 of REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 11 or in GHS 12. The classification given
in the SDS shall be done according to GHS, Dangerous Preparations Directive 13
(mandatory in EU until 1st June 2015) and/or CLP Regulation 14 (mandatory in EU from 1st
June 2015). It shall be dated and contain at least the below headings.
1) IDENTIFICATION OF THE SUBSTANCE/MIXTURE AND OF THE

COMPANY/UNDERTAKING;
2) HAZARDS IDENTIFICATION;
3) COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS;
4) FIRST-AID MEASURES;
5) FIRE-FIGHTING MEASURES;
6) ACCIDENTAL RELEASE MEASURES;
7) HANDLING AND STORAGE;
8) EXPOSURE CONTROLS/PERSONAL PROTECTION;
9) PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES;
10) STABILITY AND REACTIVITY;
11) TOXICOLOGICAL INFORMATION;
12) ECOLOGICAL INFORMATION;
13) DISPOSAL CONSIDERATIONS;
14) TRANSPORT INFORMATION;
15) REGULATORY INFORMATION;
16) OTHER INFORMATION (GHS – OTHER INFORMATION INCLUDING INFORMATION

ON PREPARATION AND REVISION OF THE SDS)
11
REACH Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 http://eur-lex.europa.eu/en/index.htm
12
Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labelling of Chemicals (GHS)
http://www.unece.org/trans/danger/publi/ghs/ghs_welcome_e.html
A Guide to GHS http://www.osha.gov/dsg/hazcom/ghs.html
13
Dangerous Preparations Directive 1999/45/EC on classification, packaging and labeling of dangerous
preparations http://eur-lex.europa.eu/en/index.htm
14
CLP Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 on classification, labelling and packaging of substances and
mixtures http://eur-lex.europa.eu/en/index.htm

APPENDIX 2. LABELLING OF CHEMICAL PRODUCTS
Labelling requirements, which should be in conformity with national requirements, shall

cover 15:
• PRODUCT NAME / TRADE NAME

• IDENTITY OF THE CHEMICAL PRODUCT
• HAZARD PICTOGRAMS
• SIGNAL WORD
• HAZARD STATEMENT
• PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES & PICTOGRAMS
• FIRST AID STATEMENTS
• SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATION
• NOMINAL QUANTITY
• IDENTIFICATION OF THE BATCH
• NAME, ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER OF THE CHEMICAL SUPPLIER
Fig 1.Example of a label including required elements according to GHS.
15
In GHS (Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labelling of Chemicals) and/or CLP Regulation No
1272/2008 there is more information about labelling of chemical products.

APPENDIX 3. COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATE
Below is an example of a certificate for compliance that certifies that a specific chemical
product complies with H&M Chemical Restrictions.
Certificates from individual chemical suppliers can look different and have different
wording depending of legal aspects and the nature of their business.
Date: xxxx
CERTIFICATE
We herewith confirm that the following chemical product:
Name of chemical product
Fulfils the requirements of the current valid “H&M Chemical Restrictions”, provided that
the appropriate application and consideration of our recommendations are followed.
Signature
Name
Title
Company name and address
Company Stamp


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CONTENTS

Description and Field of Application of the Restricted Substances ...................... 4

Communication along the Supply Chain ............................................................ 13

Chemical Testing .............................................................................................. 14

Frequently Asked Questions ............................................................................. 16

Appendix 1. Safety Data Sheet (SDS) .............................................................. 19

Appendix 2. Labelling of Chemical Products .................................................... 20

Appendix 3. Compliance Certificate ................................................................. 21

H&M Implementation Toolkit for H&M Chemical Restrictions – 2(21)

H&M Implementation Toolkit for H&M Chemical Restrictions – Apparel/Accessories/

Country / City E-mail

Bangladesh / Dhaka [email protected]

China / Hong Kong [email protected]

China / Shanghai [email protected]

China / Shanghai [email protected]

India / New Delhi [email protected]

India / Bangalore [email protected]

Indonesia / Jakarta [email protected]

Korea / Seoul [email protected]

Pakistan / Karachi [email protected]

Romania / Bucharest [email protected]

Turkey / Istanbul [email protected]

Country / City E-mail / Phone

Sweden / Stockholm [email protected]

H&M Implementation Toolkit for H&M Chemical Restrictions – 3(21)

Restricted Description and Field of Application

APEOs can be used in for example:

Cationic Surfactants Distearyldimethyl ammouniumchloride (DSDMAC),

DSDMAC, DTDMAC, DHTDMAC are used in processes/products

H&M Implementation Toolkit for H&M Chemical Restrictions – 4(21)

Chlorinated Aromatic Chlorinated aromatic hydrocarbons are used as carriers in the

Chloroparaffins Chloroparaffins are hydrocarbons with a straight carbon chain.

Free CrIII from the leather tanning shall be washed away as

To avoid oxidation of free CrIII into CrVI, e.g. during shipment,

An aging test must be performed before analysing CrVI on the

Dimethylformamide Dimethylformamide is a solvent used in plastics and in rubber.

Dimethylfumarate Dimethylfumarate is an anti mould agent used in sachets in

H&M Implementation Toolkit for H&M Chemical Restrictions – 5(21)

Other Dyes For dyeing textiles and other materials.

Formaldehyde Formaldehyde is a volatile, colourless gas that is present in

Formaldehyde/ formaldehyde releasing compounds can be

Isocyanates Isocyanates are used in the production of polyurethane plastics

Antimony can be used as:

H&M Implementation Toolkit for H&M Chemical Restrictions – 6(21)

Arsenic and its compounds can be used in some preservatives,

Cadmium (Cd) Cadmium is a metal element that can be present as a pure

Cadmium compounds can be used in some pigments and as

Chromium (Cr) Chromium is a metal element that can be present as a pure

Chromium compounds can be used as:

Most Cr containing dyes can be put in one of the following

Textile (except polyamide, polyamide blends & worsted wool)

Polyamide, polyamide blends and worsted wool

H&M Implementation Toolkit for H&M Chemical Restrictions – 7(21)

Cobalt compounds can be used as pigments and in dyestuff.

Copper compounds can be used as pigments and in dyestuff.

Lead compounds can be used as stabilisers for plastics. Paints

Mercury compounds can be present in pesticides and can be

Nickel metal is mainly used for plating of alloys, improving the

N-Nitrosamines N-Nitrosamines can be found in rubber.