Development Team

Principal Investigator Prof. Farhan J Ahmad

JamiaHamdard, New Delhi
Dr. Vijaya Khader
Former Dean, Acharya N G Ranga Agricultural University
Dr. Javed Ali
Paper Coordinator
Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi

Content Writer Dr. Javed Ali

Jamia Hamdard, New Delhi

Prof. (Mrs.) Kamla Pathak

Content Reviewer Pharmacy College, Safai, UPUMS (Etawah)

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Introduction of Cosmetics

Content:

 Purpose of Cosmetics

 Meaning of Cosmetics and cosmeceuticals

 Classification of Cosmetics

 Cosmetic nomenclature

 Quality characteristics and Quality Assurance Development Process of Cosmetics.

 Scientific background technology and its future.

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Definition of cosmetics

The word cosmetic is originated from Greek word “kosmeticos” which means adorn and

preparation. The preparation intended for applying on external parts of the body i.e. hairs, nails,

skin for cleaning, coloring, softening, covering, nourishing, setting, waving, removal and

protection. Cosmetic is the item intended to be rubbed, sprinkled, poured, and applied to human

body or part of human body the purpose of cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or

mimicking to others appearance. It is also defined as cosmetics are preparations like powder,

lipstick, lotion, eye liner, eye shadow, hair colorant, nail polish, rouge and many more which on

applications beautify the face, skin, nail, hair etc. Furthermore, it is as defined as a superficial

measure to make appearance more attractive, more impressive and good looking. United States

Food and Drug Administration (US FDA) regulates cosmetics and defined cosmetics as

“intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promote attractiveness, or

altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions (Source: USFDA).”

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Purpose of cosmetics

Purpose of cosmetics is protection of the body from elements of nature, such as heat and

sunlight. Ancient people painted themselves with oils, clay, plant materials, henna to protect

themselves against dryness from cold, burns from sunlight, irritation from insect bites and for

adorn purpose. The main purpose of cosmetics are for personal hygiene, to enhance

attractiveness through use of makeup, to improve self esteem and to protect skin and hair from

damaging via ultraviolet light, pollutants, and other environment factor, to prevent aging, and in

general to help people enjoy a more full and rewarding life.

The purposes of cosmetics are given below:

 Stage makeup is used to make features appear clearer and more pronounced to the

audience.

 Sometimes cosmetics are used for enhancing looks for the camera (especially in black

and white photography) irrespective of the gender.

 Cosmetics are also used to hide discolorations or skin issues or marks.

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Meaning of Cosmetics and cosmeceuticals

Cosmeceuticals refers combination of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. It indicates cosmetic

products are biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug-like benefits.

Quasi-drugs are substances which are applied to the body for the purposes of cleaning teeth or

can be also be applied as deodorants and hair colors etc. They should be used for alleviation of

conditions of the body but not for prevention and treatments of illness. They should not be

designed to affect body structure and function also. Cosmetics and quasi-drugs are quite different

from pharmaceutical drugs in use, purpose and effects.

Cosmeceuticals may contain active ingredients that are known to be beneficial to humans. For

example, vitamin C is known as antioxidant and when it is added to a lotion or cream the product

is considered a cosmeceutical. It is essential to label cosmeceutical on products which may only

be applied topically, such as creams, lotions and ointments. Cosmeceutical may include many

non-prescription anti-ageing products. Products which are similar in perceived benefits but

ingested orally are known as nutricosmetics. US FDA doesn't recognize cosmeceuticals as a

separate class. It recognizes three classes: drugs, cosmetics, and soaps.

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Classification of cosmetics

Cosmetics are classified in different ways according to use, functions and their nature. It

includes “hair care products, skincare creams, lipsticks, lotions, powders, Nail products, eye and

facial makeup, perfumes, hair colors, hair gels and hair sprays, antiperspirants and

deodorants and many more products (source: http://mmmitcom.com)”.

Cosmetics are classified into three main classes as follow:-

According to their use:

 Use for skin: creams, lotions, powders, deodorants, antiperspirants, etc.

 Use for the nails: nail polish & nail polish removers, manicure preparations, etc.

 Use for eye: eye creams, eye lashes, mascara and eye liners, etc.

 Use for teeth and mouth: dentifrices and mouth washes.

 Use for hair: shampoo hair removers, hair dyes, hair tonics and artificial hair etc.

According to their functions:

 Curative or therapeutic function: antiperspirants and hair preparations.

 Decorative functions: lipsticks, nail polishes and eye lashes etc.

 Protective functions: face powders.

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 Corrective functions: face powders.

According to their physical nature

 Aerosols: hair perfumes, hair growing lotion, after shave lotion.

 Cakes: rouge compacts, make up compacts.

 Emulsions: vanishing cream , cold cream, cleansing cream, all purpose cream.

 Powders: face powder, toothpowder, talcum powder etc.

 Solutions: after shave lotions, hand lotions, astringent lotion.

 Oils: hair oils.

 Pastes: tooth paste, deodorant paste.

 Soaps: shaving soaps, toilet soap, and shampoo soap.

 Sticks: lipsticks, deodorant sticks.

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Cosmetics nomenclature

The term nomenclature came from Latin word nomenclatura means list of names. Thus

nomenclature is a set or system of terms/names, used in a science/art, by an individual etc.

International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI)

The nomenclature of cosmetics was adopted from International Nomenclature of Cosmetic

Ingredients (INCI). The INCI system was enforced in the beginning 1970’s by the Personal

Care Products Council (former CTFA, Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association). INCI,

an internationally recognized and accepted system of nomenclature, which emphasizes that

cosmetic ingredient labelling has to be standardized and consequently a nomenclature was

developed for cosmetic ingredients. INCI names are widely used in the United States, the

European country, Japan, China, and various other countries, for the purpose of full

ingredients list on product labels. INCI, is a system of nomenclature for waxes, pigments,

oils, chemicals, and ingredients of soaps, cosmetics, which is based on scientific names and

other Latin and English words. At this time more than 16000 ingredients are there in INCI

list and the most comprehensive listing of these ingredients is used in cosmetic and personal

care products. The given table shows INCI nomenclature of some cosmetics ingredients.

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S.No. Common name INCI name

1. Purified water Water (Aqua)

2. Vitamin E Tocopherol

3. Hemp oil Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil

4. Paraben Methylparaben

5. Oat bran Avena Sativa (Oat) Bran

6. Red rose water Rosa Damascena Flower Water

International “Harmonization” of Ingredient Names

Another nomenclature system of cosmetics is International “Harmonization” of Ingredient

Names. Cosmetic companies have to ask Food and Drug Administration (FDA) about

identifying natural ingredients by Latin names, identifying color additives only by the “CI”

numbers used in the European Union, or using terms from other languages, such as “Aqua”

and “Parfum” instead of “Water” and “Fragrance.” Under the Fair Packaging and Labeling

Act (FPLA), ingredients must be listed by their “common or usual names,” and FDA does

not accept these alternatives as substitutes. But FDA does not object to their use in

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parentheses following the common or usual name in English (or Spanish, in Puerto Rico).

For examples; Water (Aqua), Fragrance (Parfum), Honey (Mel) and Sweet Almond (Prunus

Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil.

Quality characteristics and Quality Assurance

Quality is determined by the satisfaction of the

consumers. At the time of designing, manufacturing,

and marketing cosmetics, the basic quality that is

required include safety, stability, efficacy and usability.

Various regulatory bodies of the country have

astringent regulation to control the quality and efficacy of drug and cosmetics to ensure the

safety of the products which is going to be marketed. It is defined as “Quality control is a set

of methods used by organizations to achieve quality parameters or quality goals and

continually improve the organization's ability to ensure that a product will meet quality

goals”. According to USFDA “A quality system addresses the public and private sectors’

mutual goal of providing a high quality drug product to patients and prescribers. A well-built

quality system should reduce the number of (or prevent) recalls, returned or salvaged

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products, and defective products entering the marketplace” (source:

http://www.fda.gov/downloads/Drugs). A distinctive global business is involved in

manufacturing of color cosmetics, skin care, fragrances, toiletries and cosmetic packaging.

Various health authorities of different countries are totally awake about the product quality,

generally of consumer products and particularly of cosmetic products. This quality

encompasses the expected efficacy of the product and uncompromised safety.

So many legislations in different countries, states or international communities are regulating

all aspects of the manufacture and marketing of cosmetics. These regulations include lists of

debarred substances in cosmetic products, and substances whose use are limited to a certain

level of concentration and/or may be present only in certain products for application on

certain areas of the body.

While there are official or consistent methods of analysis for their use in countries, states or

communities, though these methods do not fully cover the cosmetic sector’s needs due to the

huge number of possible ingredients and contaminants and the diversity of cosmetics.

Quality control in a cosmetic company requires a great deal of exhaustive analysis. Simple,

rapid, sensitive, low cost and low toxicity methods are especially encouraged because a small

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quality of heavy metal presented in raw materials may create a big problem in finished

cosmetic products. Thus quality control of cosmetics is extremely important to ensure the

safety and efficacy of products as well of raw materials.

The quality characteristics and quality assurance are summarized in table 1 and table 2,

respectively, below:

Table 1: Different quality characteristics of cosmetics

Safety Lack/absence of skin irritation, skin sensitivity, oral toxicity, reduction

of harmful symptoms.

Stability Quality change, color change, odor change, physical form change,

bacterial contamination etc.

Feeling (sensibility, moisturizing effect and smoothness)

Usability Ease of Use (form, weight, size, performance, composition, portability

etc.)

Preference (smell, color, design etc.)

Efficacy Moisturizing effect, UV protective effect, cleansing effect and

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coloring effect etc.

Table 2: Quality assurance of cosmetics

Assurance
Safety test and Patch test
Safety
Toxic heavy metal test(As, Lead, Hg, etc.)

Color stability test

Photoresistance test
Cosmetics: Content quality assurance

Stability Assurance

Smell stability test

Temperature/Humidity Resistance stability test

Preservation test

Pharmaceutical agent stability test

Physicochemical stability test

Usability test (Sensory test)

assurance
Usability

Physicochemical test (Rheological

measurement etc.)
Assurance
Efficacy

Efficacy test for each product

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Development Process of Cosmetics

Development process of cosmetics is the bringing of a new product to the market after the lead

compound identification through developmental process of cosmetics discovery. It includes all

tests which are required before the products to be launched in the market and data to be produced

before approval authority for marketing approval. In the development of cosmetics, the basic and

applied research holds great significance. The development of cosmetics includes the

development of new raw materials, novel and advanced formulation techniques and new

concepts for the utilization from dermatological research. Nowadays, various biotechnological

products have been developed and used for cosmetics. Various advancement in the development

of new materials derived from fine chemicals as well as utilization of new drug delivery system

(NDDS) such as nanoemulsion, liposomes, microemulsion, solid lipid nanoparticles, etc have

been utilized. New product development research includes developing formulation for various

products and developing appropriate packaging such as container for the products. Specific

packaging is to be designed according to the incorporated ingredients, safety, stability, efficacy

and usability of the cosmetic products. It is necessary to examine scale up from laboratory to

mass production scale not only by researcher but also by plant engineers. Mass production and

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commercialization begin when an application in accordance with the pharmaceutical Affairs Law

has been approved.

The stability of developed cosmetic products is one of the foremost parameter for quality product

as well as customers satisfaction. A huge range of product forms in the said fields (milk, cream,

foam, etc.), their many end-use properties and conditions of storage make their stability tests

long and tiresome. Anticipation of probable stability issues must be examined while going for

large scale production.

Scientific background technology and its future

Earlier in 1970’s, the interest of research was focused on the product stability, fine texture, good

after feel developmental technology and quality control. In view of cosmetics colloid science,

rheology and statistics were the major area of research. The first oil crisis in 1973 led to a period

of low growth of cosmetics, and compatibility between user and product and the safety of

cosmetics products became the primary interests of research.

Scientific research is rapidly being investigated into a wider range of human being related

subjects including dermatology, biochemistry, pharmacology, biology, and physiology etc.

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Scientific research area such as psychology, psychoneurology and immunology are also

becoming important in the developmental process of cosmetics. Psychological area should be in

consideration because it shows effects of cosmetics on peacefulness, relaxation, happiness and

freedom from stress. In future there is a need of more developed technologies for producing

novel cosmetics. It was observed that the development of cosmetics is a basic human science and

was based on traditional stuffs like Henna and turmeric powder paste on body applications. It

combines both the technological aspects of product production and physiological as well as

psychological needs of the people. Thus more cutting edge technology will be necessary to

produce products which will show improved performance. Performance wise, there is major

advances in development of biopharmaceutically useful materials for the face and scalp with

novel functions like prevention of wrinkles and of hair loss, promotion of skin lightening and of

hair growth. Novel technology is needed to be explored for better products, like photo chromic

pigments that will change face color and make it appear more beautiful according to the light

adjustment/variation such as foundation makeup that looks natural in any light conditions. While

developing cosmetics, it must be kept in mind that it should give psychological satisfaction also.

The role of cosmetics is not only limited to physiological function but also have positive effect

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psychologically and also promote health by giving happiness to human senses. Products with

even better pharmaceutical properties (cosmeceuticals) are being developed and even more can

be expected in the future. Cosmetics covers the fields from natural sciences to human and social

sciences, it is an important interdisciplinary element in various scientific disciplines. In the

future, we can expect even more progress based on our current research and new discoveries in

related scientific fields.

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