CHAPTER THREE

3. BODY WORKING TOOLS

Body working tools include some very familiar general-purpose metal

working tools as well as specialized tools only used in auto body repair.
The following is a description of the most commonly used body working
tools. Because of the wide variety of hammers, files and dollies, some
of the less common varieties are not discussed but the tool collection of
advanced auto body repair technicians will include all the tools
necessary for performing every metal shaping technique, no matter
how unusual. A typical set of body working tools is shown in

HAMMERS

A number of different hammers are useful in the body shop. Many are
specially shaped for a specific metal shaping operation.

Ball Peen Hammers

The ball peen hammer is a

useful multipurpose tool for all
kinds of work with sheet
metal. Heavier than the body
hammer, it is used for
straightening bent
underpinnings, smoothing
heavy gauge parts, and roughly shaping body parts before work with a
body hammer and dolly begins. Several ball peen hammers of different
weights will see a lot of action in a body shop.

Mallets
The rubber mallet gently bumps sheet
metal without damaging the painted finish.
Its most frequent use is with the suction
cup on soft " cave-in " type dents. While
pulling upward on the cup, the mallet is
used to top lightly all around the
surrounding high spots. A popping sound
occurs as the high spots drop and the low
spot springs back to its original contour.
A steel hammer with rubber tips is another
mallet useful in bodywork. The hammer
shown in Figure has both hard and soft
replaceable rubber heads. The soft-faced
hammer, as it is sometimes called, is used to work chrome trim and
other delicate parts without marking the finish.

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Sledgehammer

A light sledgehammer is an essential

tool for the first stages of re-forming
damaged sheet metal. It should weight 3
to 5 pounds and have a short handle so
that it can be used in tight places. The
sledgehammer can be used to knock
damaged metal roughly back in to
shape and to clear away damaged
metal when replacing a panel.

Body Hammers

Body hammers are the basic tools for pounding sheet metal backs in to
shape. They come in many different designs. Some have flat, square
heads; some have rounded heads; and some, called picking hammers,
have pointed heads. Every style is designed for a special use for which
it is ideal.

Picking Hammers

The picking hammer will take care of many

small dents. The pointed end is used to
hammer out small dents from the inside; a
gentle tap in the centre usually does it. The flat
end is for hammer- and-dolly work to remove
high spots and ripples. Picking hammers come
in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some have
long picks for reaching behind body panels.
Some have sharp "pencil" points' other have
blunted bullet points.

Be careful when using the pick hammer if

swung forcefully, the pointed end can pierce
the lighter sheet metals used in late model
cars. Use the pick only on small dents.

Bumping Hammers

Larger dents require the use of a

bumping hammer bumping hammers
can have round face or a square

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face. The surfaces of the faces are nearly flat. The faces are large
area. These hammers are used for initial straightening on dented
panels or for working inner panels and rain forced sections that require
more force but not a finish appearance.

Sharp concave surface such as the reverse curves on quarter panels,

headlights, doors, and so on require the use of a reverse curve light-
bumping hammer. The faces of this hammer are crowned one in the
opposite direction of the other. The tight curve of the faces allows
concave stretching the metal. Remember, the contour of the hammer
must be smaller than the contour of the panel to avoid stretching the
metal.

Finishing Hammers

After the bumping hammer is used to

remove the dent, final contour is achieved
with the finishing

Hammer. The faces on a finishing

hammer are smaller than those of the
heavier bumping hammer. The surface of
the face is crowned to concentrate the
force on top of the ridge or high spot. A
shrinking hammer is a finishing hammer
with a serrated or cross- grooved face.
This hammer is used to shrink spots that
have been stretched by excessive
hammering.
(A) Double round (B)&(E) Shrinking hammer
(C) Off-set bumping (D) Dinging hammer
E

DOLLIES

The dolly or dolly block is

used like an anvil. It is
generally held on the
backside of a panel being
struck with a hammer.
Together the hammer and
dolly work high spots down
and low spots up.
There are many different
shapes of dollies each
shape is intended for
specific types of dents and
body panel contours-high
crowns low crowns, flanges,

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and others. It is very important that the dolly fits the contour of the
panel. If a flat dolly or one with a low crown is used on a high crown
panel, additional dents will be the result.

A general-purpose dolly has many contours. It can be used most

situations. A rail type dolly is another commonly used dolly with money
contours toe and heel dollies are used for bumping in tight places, and
the flat right angle edge is used for straightening flanges.

Spoon
Body spoons are another class of
body working tools that are used
sometimes like a hammer and
sometimes like a dolly. Available in
a various of shapes and sizes to
match various panel shapes, the
flat surface of a spoon distribute
the striking over a wide area.. They
are particularly useful on crease
and ridges. A spoon dolly can be
used as a dolly where the space
behind a panel is limited. A dinging
spoon is used with a hammer to
work down ridges Inside spoons
can used to pry up low places or can be struck with a hammer to drive
up dents. Bumping files have serrated surfaces and are used to slap
ridges or the underside of creases to bump the metal back to its
original shape.
A) Spoon dolly B) light dinging spoon C) surfacing spoon
D) Inside high crown E) Inside medium crown F) inside heavy-
duty spoon G) bumping file

Lowering a ridge with a hammer and spoon

Serrated surface and are used to slap

ridges or the underside of creases to
hump the metal to its original shape.

PICKS

Picks like spoons, are used to reach in to

confined spaces. The pick is used only to
pry up low spots. They very in length and
shape and most have a U- shaped end that
serves as a handle picks are commonly
used to rise low spots in door, quarter

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panels, and other sealed body sections Picks are often preferred to
slide hammers and pull rods because they do not require drilling holes
in the sheet metal.

DENT PULLERS AND PULL RODS

Creases in
sealed body
panels or panel
sections that
cannot be
reached from
backside even with the longest spoon can be pulled out with a dent
puller or pull rod. Either tool requires one or more holes drilled or
punched in the crease.
A dent puller usually comes with a threaded tip and hook tip either tip is
inserted in the drilled hole and a hammer is slid on a steel shaft and
struck against the handle. Tapping the slide hammer against the
handle slowly pulls up the low spot
Working with a dent puller is faster when a metal piercing tip is used.
When the metal tip is forced through the sheet metal, the angular rings
grip the metal as the hammer is tapped against the metal. When the
metal has been pulled back to shape, the tip can be backed out of the
hole by turning it counter clockwise.
Pulling a small dent with a pull rod
A pull rod is used in this manner. The
curved end of the pull rod is inserted in the
drilled hole. A small dent or crease can be
pulled up with a single pull rod Three or four
pull rods can be used simultaneously to pull
up larger dents A body hammer can also be
used with a pull rod. The high crown of a
dent can also be used with a pull rod. The
low spot is pulled up simultaneous bumping
and pulling returns the panel to its original shape with less danger of
stretching the metal.
It is important to close the holes created by using dent pullers and pull
rods by soldering or welding. Simply patching the holes with body filler
will not provided sufficient corrosion protection.
SUCTION CUPS
The suction cup is a simple tool
that makes short work of shallow
dents if they are not locked in by a
crease in the metal. Simply attach
the suction cup to the centre of the
dent and pull. The dent might come
right out with no damage to the
paint and no refinishing required. It
is an easy tool to use and can make a simple repair. However, once a
dent is locked in, some hammer and dolly work will be necessary to

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smooth the metal. Even so, the suction cup method is usually worth a
try.

PUNCHES AND CHISELS

A good set punches and chisels
are absolutely in every body
working tool chest. Centre
punches are used to mark the
location of parts before they are
removed and for marking a spot
drilling. (The punch mark keeps
the drill bit from wandering.) A
drifter or starter punch has a
tapered point with a flat end that
is used to drive out rivets, pins
and bolts. A pin punch is similar
to the drifter except its shaft is not
tapered; thus it can be used to
drive out smaller rivets or bolts. An aligning punch is a long tapered
punch used to align body panels for welding or other body parts (such
as fender bolt holes and a bumper).

A chisel is a steel bar with a hardened cutting edge for hearing steel.
These chisels come in various sizes and a set is necessary for both
light and heavy-duty work. The cold chisel is used to split frozen nuts,
shear off rusted bolts, cut welds, and separate body and frame parts.

SCRATCH AWL
A scratch awl is very similar in appearance
to an ice pick; pit the pointed steel shank is
heavier. A scratch awl is used to pierce
holes in their metal when a specific size
hole is not required. It is also used to mark
metal for cutting drilling or fastening. A
hammer can be used to lightly drive the
awl through heavier metal. Keep the awl ground to a sharp point so it
can be used effectively and safely in every job.

METAL CUTTTING
SHEARS

Most body repair technicians

have at least one pair of
shears or tin snips. Snips are
used to trim panels or metal
pieces to size. Several types
of metal cutters are useful.

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A. Tin snips, B. Straight cut, C. Right cut shear D. Left cut shear
E. Light duty snips F. Aviation snips

Tin Snips
Tin snips are perhaps on most common metal cutting tool. They can be
used to cut straight or curved shapes in heavy steel.

Metal Cutters

Metal cutters also called aviation snips, are used to cut through hard
metals such as stainless steel. The narrow profile of jaws allows the
snip to slip between the cut metal. The jaws are serrated to cut through
the tough metal.

Panel Cutters

Panel cutters are special snips used

to cut through body sheet metal.
These are used to make straight or
curved cut outs in panels that require
spot repair for rust or damage. They
are designed to leave a clean, straight edge that can be easily welded.

RIVET GUN

Pop rivets are one of the handiest

inventions for auto bodywork. They
can be inserted in to a blind hole
through two pieces of metal and
then drawn up with a riveting tool,
locking the pieces of metal together
There is no need to have access to
the back of the rivets, and if
enough rivets are used, the joint
created is extremely strong. For
any kind of sheet metal replacement such as rust hole repair, the pop
rivet is by far the easiest and least expensive joining system available.
In fact, most body shops use rivets extensively, either as a permanent
repair or as temporary fasteners. They are used as temporary
fasteners before the replacement sheet metal is welded in places
where extreme heat would distort the metal or create a safety hazard
(such as around the gas tank). A good rivet gun does not cost much.
The most commonly used rivets in bodywork are 1/8- and 3/16 inch. A
few others of assorted sizes might be needed for special jobs.

A heavy- duty riveter, such as the one shown in is used to rivet hard-to-
reach places and heavier mechanical assemblies such as a window

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glass regulator. It has along handles, a long nose, and sets 3/16 to ¼
inch blind rivets.

UPHOLSTERY TOOLS

Any repair work that requires removing interior trim will be facilitated
with an upholstery tool. This prong-shaped prying tool is used to slip
under and pry up upholstery tacks, springs, clips and other fasteners.

DOOR HANDLE TOOL

Interior door handles are often

secured to the door panel by
wire spring clips. Shaped like
horseshoes, fit over the handle
shaft and hold handle tightly
against the interior panel trim.
Clip pullers or door handle tools
are needed to reach inside the
door and remove the clip. Some
door handle tools pull the clip
put: Others push the clip off the
shaft.
A) door hinge bolt wrenches
B)door removal kit C & D)door panel remover E & F)door
handle tool G & H)Trim pad remover I)window moulding release
tool J)windshield locking strip installation toolK)window sash nut
spanner socket L)windshield remover M)hot-tip windshield
remover kit N)windshield wiper removal tool O)windshield wiper tool
P)all-purpose window scraper
Sheet Metal Brakes

Many body repairs require metal patches

to be riveted or welded in to place. A tool
that comes in handing and braking sheet
metal is shown in Figure. This sheet
metal brake bends sheet metal up to 20-
gauge and sheet aluminium up to 16
gauge. Clean, smooth bends up to 90
degrees can be made with a brake. The brake is also used for cutting
sheet metal to size. This is done by first bending the metal 90 degrees.
Then the metal is worked back and forth by hand until the metal breaks
along the crease.

Body Surfacing Tools

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A number of surfacing tools are used to give a repair its final and
contour. Some are used to shape the repaired metal. Others are used
to apply and shape plastic body filler and putty.

Metal Files

After working a damaged panel back to its approximate original

contour, a metal file is used to remove any remaining high spots. Two
special files are necessary for most bodywork.

Reveal File
The reveal file is a small file that is
available in numerous shapes.
Generally it is curved to fit tightly
crowned areas such as around
windshields, wheel openings, and
other panel edges. The reveal file is
pulled, not pushed, when used.
Pushing causes the file to chatter, resulting in nicks and an uneven
surface.

Body Files
Body files are used to level large
surfaces. After a dent has been
bumped or pulled back in to shape,
the body file will hone down high
spots and reveal any low spots that
might require additional bumping.
Keep in mind that it is possible to file
through thin metal used in some
vehicles.

The blade of the body file is held in a flexible holder with a turnbuckle.
The turnbuckle can be adjusted to flex the file. The flexible holder
allows the shape of the file to fit the contour of the panel.

Fixed file holders are also available for filling flat or slightly convex
shapes.

Surform File

Body filler can be made level

to the adjacent panel with a
surform file Commonly

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refereed to as a "cheese grater," the surform file is used to shape body
filler while it is semi hard. Shaping the filler before it hardness shortens
the waiting period while the filler cures and reduces the sanding effort
later in the repair process.

Speed File

Once the body filler has hardened, the repair can be a shaped and
levelled with a speed file is a rigid wooden holder about 17 inches long
and 2-3/4 inches wide. Also called a flat boy, the speed file allows a
repair area to be sanded quickly with long, level strokes. This
eliminates waves and uneven areas.

The lightweight aluminium sander is designed to quickly level body

filler. The extra long length helps avoid creating a waxy surface. The
sander also flexes to match the panel contour. Adhesive backed
sandpaper is applied from a roll. This particular sander can also be
attached to a straight-line air sander.

Spreaders and Squeegees

Spreaders and squeegees are two important tools used in auto body
resurfacing. Spreaders are used to apply body filler. Spreaders are
made of rigid plastic and are available in various sizes. Be sure to use
one that is large enough to apply plastic filler over the repair area
before the filler begins to set up.

A squeegee is a flexible rubber block approximately 2 inches by 3

inches and 3/16 inch thick. Squeegees are used to apply glazing putty
and light coats of body filler. They are also used when wet sanding to
skim water and sanding girt from the repair area.

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