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Making Creams from Natural

Ingredients (161109)

An outline on the basic principles in making cosmetic and healing creams from
plant derived ingredients in a home setting.

Introduction.
The following information is used to instruct participants in the Medicinal Herb Seminars held at Pindari
Herb Farm. It details how to successfully manufacture creams from plant derived ingredients and is based
both on the author's 30 years experience as a community pharmacist working in complementary medicine
and for the last 10 years in the manufacture of the Pindari Herb Farm's Skin Care Range.

The on going positive feed back from clients for the cosmetic and therapeutic creams, and from
participants of the herbal seminars who have gone on to establish their own businesses making natural
skin care products is an indication that there is a place in today's market for creams produced using the
procedures and ingredients outlined below.

The acceptance of our products can in part be attributed to the use of extra virgin and where possible organic oils,
our recently prepared herbal extracts from organically grown fresh herbs and the use of adequate and low irritant
antioxidants, preservatives and emulsifiers, these carefully combined to produce a stable, cosmetically very
acceptable, therapeutic cream.

In the information and formulations provided below, the emulsifier, preservative and Glycerin used are
made by the chemical manipulation of plant derived ingredients and are thus not "natural" ingredients in
the true sense.

A good reference for those wishing for further information in this area is the book "Creating Your Own
Cosmetics - Naturally" by Nikolaus J. Smeh (ISBN 0-9637755-1-0)

What is a cream?
Creams generally consist of two basic components, an oil phase and an aqueous phase. A cream is
formed when the oil phase is successfully emulsified into the aqueous phase, producing an oil in water
emulsion of stable and solid consistency at room temperatures.

Functions of a cream.
A cream can be successfully used to deliver and hold nutrients and medications on the skin's surface.
Both the oil and aqueous components can be used as a carrier. The skin has a limited capacity to absorb
many oils and some chemical compounds and is responsive to surface medications such as herbal
extracts, and to vibrational energies such as Flower essences.

Efficacy of a cream
This is directly related to the quality of the added ingredients, their concentration and how suited and how
well either the oil or aqueous phases deliver and hold that ingredient on the skin's surface and facilitate its
absorption into the skin. How the herbal extracts are prepared is crucial in determining their efficacy in a
cream. (Refer to "Practice and Principles in Preparing Fresh Plant Tinctures" and "Basic Guidelines in
Making Oil Infusion," both are freely available on our web page at:
www.pindariherbfarm.com/educate/edulist.htm)

What ingredients can go into a cream?

As previously mentioned, a cream consists of two basic components being an oil phase and an aqueous
phase. Into either of these two phases can be respectively added oil and water soluble ingredients
according to the intended functions of the planned cream. Examples of some more commonly added
ingredients are detailed below.

Aqueous phase components.

This phase usually consists of 50% to 80% by weight of a cream with water as the primary component.
Water is the principle solvent on earth and is essential for life. It is a dipolar solvent and is responsive to
and "holds" vibrational energies as demonstrated by Japanese researcher Masaru Emoto in his book
"The Secret Life of Water." According to Masaru, the source of the water, its level of contamination by
pollutants and the thoughts of those handling it can affect the water's vibrational nature and thus would
influence the subtle qualities of a resultant cream. This author's personal experience supports Masaru's
findings.

Water soluble and water miscible ingredients include:

• Herbal aqueous and alcoholic extracts.

• Mineral salts and other water soluble chemicals including vitamins.
• Glycerin. This water miscible ingredient adds emollient characteristics to a cream improving its
texture.
• Flower essences and Homoeopathic vibrational energies.
• Preservatives.
Water is an ideal medium for the growth of bacteria and moulds and unless a cream is being
used immediately or is carefully handled and stored in a refrigerator, it needs the addition of a
preservative.
There are many chemical preservatives and a few effective more natural preservatives derived
from plant material or other natural ingredients that are then chemically manipulated. Two popular
preservatives in this class and available in Australia are:
Citrus seed extract (proprietary name Citricidal) prepared from Grapefruit pulp and seed.
Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate (proprietary name Suttocide C) prepared from the amino acid
Glycine.

Oil (and fat) phase Components.

This phase usually consists of between 15% and 30% of a cream by weight and "holds the key" to the
cream's texture and cosmetic quality. The bulk of this fraction consists of the emulsifying agent and a mix
of vegetable oils and fats.
The types, qualities and effects of the oils and fats that can be incorporated into this component of a
cream are extensive and complex and are beyond the scope of this document. For further information on
this refer to Nikolaus's book and “Fats that Heal Fats that Kill” by Udo Erasmus published by Alive Books.
(ISBN 0-920470-38-6)
Below is a brief outline of the more commonly used oils and fats.

Vegetable oils - these are divided here into five basic types:

1. Saturated or fixed oil or fat.

E.g. Coconut oil - saturated oil from the coconut palm.
E.g. Jojoba oil - natural saturated fluid wax extracted from the Jojoba seed.
2. Mono unsaturated oils (omega 9).
E.g. Olive oil
 3. Poly unsaturated oils (omega 6).
E.g. Almond oil - oil with omega 9 and omega 6 fatty acids.
E.g. Grape seed and Sunflower oils - oils high in omega 6 with a little omega 9 fatty acids.
4. Poly unsaturated oils (omega 3).
E.g. Flax seed oil - high in omega 3 fatty acids. The most susceptible group to oxidation.
5. Specialised oils.
E.g. Evening primrose and Borage seed oils - contain high levels of GLA (Gamma-linolenic Acid).

Animal oils and fats.

1. Lard (pig fat) and other animal fats have fallen out of fashion, being mostly replaced by the more
cosmetically acceptable and readily available vegetable oils.
2. Emu oil extracted from the liver area of the Emu and is being used increasingly as a therapeutic
agent for inflammatory conditions involving pain.
3. Mutton bird oil is extracted from the gullet of juvenile Shearwater birds and consists of the oil from
digested fish. It has a limited availability to southern Australia.

Fish oils.

Cod liver and other fish oils are high in omega 3 fatty acids including DHA and EPA.

Other oil phase components:

• Fragrant essential oils (e.g. Lavender oil and Peppermint oil).

• Herbal oil infusions (e.g. Calendula flowers infused in Olive oil).
• Emulsifiers (see below).
• Antioxidants (see below).

Emulsifiers.
Also known as surfactants, these are usually organic salts with a linear (straight) molecular structure
where one end is "water loving" (hydrophilic) and the other "oil loving (lipophilic)." They act by "sitting" on
the surface of the oil globule (micelle) at its interface with the aqueous phase of the cream, reducing the
"surface tension" between the two, thus providing a "platform" for a stable emulsion that forms the cream.

Emulsifiers is a complex science and in this document only the commonly available emulsifying agent
called Emulsifying wax is discussed as it is easy to use in practice and is more tolerant and accepting
when significant quantities of ingredients are added. It is derived mostly from the chemical manipulation
of palm oil and the variations in this process result in differing properties in the Emulsifying waxes
available. It is usually used in a cream at a concentration of 6% - 15% by weight. Obtain the product
information on the chosen emulsifier for the optimum percentage to use and the temperature and mixing
time needed to form a stable emulsion.

Antioxidants
Antioxidants "resist" the oxidation of oils in the presence of air and especially light by sacrificing
themselves to oxidation thus protecting the chemical bonds in the oil. They can extend the shelf life of
oils.

They are especially needed in un-saturated oils (most vegetable oils) but are not required for oils such as
paraffin oil that is used in Sorbolene cream. Virgin (unprocessed) vegetable oils contain their own natural
antioxidants. These are mostly removed when the oil is processed.
Natural antioxidants:
- Vitamin E is extracted from vegetable oils. It is available as vitamin E capsules and as a liquid
concentrate.
- Rosemary frond extract is available as a commercial product called Amiox. It is used at a concentration
of 2 - 4 drops per 100mL/gm of cream.

Equipment needed for making a cream in a home based setting.

• A source of heating for two saucepans to be used as water baths. Gas heating is preferred.
• Two tall stainless or enamel, straight sided jugs, one large enough to hold the volume of the
cream to be made. Both jugs should comfortably fit inside the water bath saucepans which are
filled with sufficient water to heat the ingredients but to not over flow when the jugs are placed in
them.
• A stainless bladed spatula, a stick type thermometer and a stick type blender that are long
enough to reach to the bottom of both jugs. (Approximately 20cm)
• Scales that are accurate down to 1 gm and up to 5 kilograms.
• A graduated measuring cylinder. e.g. 100mL
• A large saucepan to be used as a cooling bath and into which cold water can be added from a tap
or container.
• A clean bench, preferably a sink as a work place.
• Sufficient jars to hold the quantity of cream to be made cream and a place where they can be
comfortably and efficiently filled. (e.g. Table top)

Safety.
Always consider all SAFETY ASPECTS as you are heating oils and handling hot water. Keep a suitable
fire extinguisher nearby and a wet cloth or towel. Have a clear and tidy working space so as to reduce the
potential for accidents.

Step by step procedures in making a cream:

For beginners.

• It is best to start with a simple formula such as the one provided below and obtain the equipment
and required ingredients in small quantities, then successfully make a base cream.
• When this has been achieved, make the base cream again and trial the addition of other
ingredients. With experience and practice this can be expanded upon until you have a stable and
cosmetically acceptable cream that has several additional ingredients.
• Ingredients that are temperature sensitive must be added to the cream base at the lowest
possible temperature.
• It is usual to add the oil components to the water fraction when making a cream but in small scale
practice it is better to add the water to the oil as it avoids the loss of oil components to the surface
of the holding vessel.
• The addition of cooler ingredients can hasten setting and close attention needs to be taken to
avoid this happening by using gentle hot water bath heat.
• It is important to always keep a record of the formula and any additions to your cream that you
trial. This enables success and failures to be learnt from and for the formulation to be improved.
Always plan and write down the order and method of the addition of each component of the
cream.
• It is easier and quicker to measure many of your ingredients by weight especially the oil
components using electronic scales. With the aqueous component you can assume that 10mL
weighs 10gm and with oils, 10mL weighs 9gm.
• Do not contaminate your bulk ingredients by "pouring back" over measured amounts.
 • Check all ingredients as they are added for foreign objects and wear an old shirt or another dust
free garment and a hair net.

Procedure

1. Make the CREAM BASE by measuring the oil components into the larger jug and the aqueous
components into the smaller jug. The oil phase must contain the emulsifier. Heat both in the water
bath saucepans so they do not come in direct contact with the heating element and are thus
protected from being over-heated.
2. Stir the components regularly with the spatula to distribute the heat and use the stick
thermometer to measure the temperature. The usual temperature before mixing for the making of
a stable emulsion is 80C for the aqueous component and 70C for the oils.
3. When the aqueous and oil components are at the required temperature and any waxes have
melted, mix the two together by removing both jugs out of the baths and away from the heating
elements and pouring the water component into the oil. Use vigorous stirring or preferably, a
hand-held Bamix type stick blender to make an emulsion.
4. Do this for 1-2 minutes to allow the emulsion to form. Avoid blending air into the liquid, pulse the
blender and keep the blender head well under the liquid.
5. Quickly cool the mix to around 55C by sitting the jug in the cold-water bath as you stir the
emulsion.
6. Add the remaining ingredients including any tinctures and specialized oils, and omega 3 and
fragrance oils at this time with constant stirring. Remove any set cream from the sides and bottom
of the jug. Use a little gentle water bath heat if required. Blend again and avoid blending air into
the emulsion..
7. Allow the liquid emulsion to sit for a minute or two and tap the base of the jug to remove air
bubbles.
8. When at 44C or showing signs of thickening (i.e. starting to set, usually around 42C) pour into
ready, uncapped jars. Attention is needed as the cream can set quickly and a little hot water bath
heat may be required to finish the pouring.

Capping and labeling

1. Allow the cream to cool until "cold to touch" before capping as condensation can occur on the
inside of the lid and drop onto the surface of the cream and lead to mould growth.
2. Before capping, check both the cream in the jar and the cap for any surface contaminants.
3. When the cream has set, apply a label including the name for the cream, date of expiry, storage
advice, batch number and it is best to include details of the ingredients and how the cream is to
be used.

Factors that affect the stability of a cream.

The strength and texture of the emulsion forming the cream is influenced by:

• The emulsifying characteristics of the emulsifier as suited to the formulation.

• The percentage of the oil fraction in the cream. The more oil, the thicker and potentially more
unstable the cream and the more emulsifier required.
• The size of the oil globules (micelles) in the emulsion. The smaller they are the greater the
surface area between the oils and aqueous components and the more stable the cream. In
practice, smaller micelles are achieved by using a stick blender compared with vigorous stirring.

The stability of the emulsion once it is formed can be affected by:

 • Chemical salts that can influence and change the lipophilic and hydrophilic ends of the emulsifier
molecule. Avoid using water with high levels of dissolved salts such as mineral or spring water.
• Alcohol concentrations above 5% and especially 10% can destabilize an emulsion.
• Herbal ingredients high in mucilage and astringents that "compete" for the water in the cream.

Adding ingredients to the base cream.

• Medicated oils - Herbal oil infusions may be added separately to around 5% of the cream. As a
cream is mostly aqueous, it is only able to "accept" the addition of further oils up to a certain
percentage and then the oils will "fall" out of the emulsion forming a cracked "oily" cream.

• Herbal tinctures - May be added to around 20% of total volume of the cream (less for high
alcohol tinctures). They are best added slowly and separately.

• Fragrant (essential) oils - Usually added from 0.1% to 1% of total volume of the cream
depending on the need. They should be added to the cream base at the lowest temperature
practicable.

• Flower and homoeopathics vibrational energies - These are optimally added by energising
them into other water containing liquids that are to be added to the cream. e.g. Herbal tinctures.
This is best achieved in a clean and empty jar or bottle by adding around 10 drops of the essence
and 25mL of the water containing liquid and then banging this vigorously (succussing) on a firm
surface around 50 times. Then add the remaining liquid and succuss again. This potentises the
vibrational energies of the essences into the water in the liquid which is then added with stirring to
the cream base.

• Creams containing highly unsaturated oils e.g. Flax seed oil, should be added to the cream
base at the lowest possible temperature. This resultant cream should be stored in dark tightly
capped containers and stored in a cool place away from light.

• To add Aloe vera gel. - Make a glycerotract of the Aloe gel by scraping the gel from the fresh
leaf and then blending it with a stick blender to liquefy the mucilage. Add an equal amount of
Glycerin by weight and blend this mix well, pass this through a fine mesh filter and store ready for
use. The Glycerin acts to preserve the gel and stores successfully in a refrigerator for future use.
It also allows the gel to be successfully added to the cream base. Aloe vera gel is sensitive to
heat and should be added to a cream at a low temperature.

Note: Cream formulas with added ingredients are uniquely individual in their stability. It is a case of trial
and error until you have a formula that is stable and can successfully be repeated.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Cream Formulas using natural ingredients

Below is a standard formula for 200 gm of a "natural" moisturizing cream using a plant derived
preservative and antioxidant. You are reminded again to record the formulation used and to plan the
manufacturing procedure. Measure the ingredients carefully.
The bolded "oil" and the "aqueous" phase components below make the base cream. To this may be
added either the MOISTURISING or MASSAGE or ECZEMA ingredients. Below these formulas are
three suggested fragrances. With the massage cream, the fragrances are already included in the formula.
If making the cream at home, add the fragrances you wish.
The formula below is enough to completely fill three 60gm amber glass cream jars.
Have fun.

Quantity-
"OILS" % % total
200gm
Emulsifying wax (mp. 52C) 24gm 12
Calendula infused Olive oil 20gm 10
Almond oil 16gm 8
Apricot kernel oil 4gm 2
Beeswax (mp. 62C) 6gm 3
Amiox (antioxidant) 4drops ___ 35

"AQUEOUS"
Glycerine (vegetable derived) 18mL/gm 9
Citrus seed ext. (preservative) 2mL/gm 1
Rain water 70mL/gm 35 45

MOISTURIZING
Calendula fresh tinct 20mL 10
Marshmallow root tinct 10mL 5
Comfrey leaf tinct 10mL 5 20

MASSAGE
Arnica tinct 20mL 10
Ginger tinct 10mL 5
Eucalyptus oil - these are the added fragrances. 4mL 2
Rosemary oil 4mL 2
Marjoram oil 2mL 1 20

ECZEMA
Chickweed succus 20mL 10
Calendula tinct 10mL 5
Comfrey leaf tinct 10mL 5 20

"FRAGRANCE choice" (excluding massage

cream)
Lavender oil and or 6drops total
Rosemary oil and or 6drops total
Lemongrass oil 6drops total ___ ___
200gm 100 100
 Ken Atherton Phc
Pindari Herb Farm
200 Norwich Drive LONGFORD Tas. 7301
www.pindariherbfarm.com
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