History of Watches
History of Watches
History of Watches
A 16th-century portable drum watch with sundial. The 24-hour dial has Roman numerals on the outer band and
Arabic numerals on the inner one[1]
Contents
1Clock-watch
2Pocketwatch
3Balance spring
4Temperature compensation and chronometers
5Lever escapement
6Mass production
7Wristwatch
8Electric watch
9Quartz watch
10Radio-controlled wristwatch
11Atomic wristwatch
12Smartwatch
13See also
14References
15External links
Clock-watch[edit]
A pomander watch from 1530 once belonged to Philip Melanchthon and is now in the Walters Art
Museum, Baltimore
The first timepieces to be worn, made in the 16th century beginning in the German cities
of Nuremberg and Augsburg, were transitional in size between clocks and watches.
[5]
Portable timepieces were made possible by the invention of the mainspring in the
early 15th century. Nuremberg clockmaker Peter Henlein (or Henle or Hele) (1485-
1542) is often credited as the inventor of the watch. [6][7] He was one of the first German
craftsmen who made "clock-watches", ornamental timepieces worn as pendants, which
were the first timepieces to be worn on the body. His fame is based on a passage
by Johann Cochläus in 1511,[8][9]
Peter Hele, still a young man, fashions works which even the most learned
mathematicians admire. He shapes many-wheeled clocks out of small bits of iron, which
run and chime the hours without weights for forty hours, whether carried at the breast or
in a handbag
However, other German clockmakers were creating miniature timepieces during this
period, and there is no evidence Henlein was the first. [7][8]
These 'clock-watches' were fastened to clothing or worn on a chain around the neck.
They were heavy drum-shaped cylindrical brass boxes several inches in diameter,
engraved and ornamented. They had only an hour hand. The face was not covered with
glass, but usually had a hinged brass cover, often decoratively pierced with grillwork so
the time could be read without opening. The movement was made of iron or steel and
held together with tapered pins and wedges, until screws began to be used after 1550.
Many of the movements included striking or alarm mechanisms. They usually had to be
wound twice a day. The shape later evolved into a rounded form; these were later
called Nuremberg eggs. Still later in the century there was a trend for unusually-shaped
watches, and clock-watches shaped like books, animals, fruit, stars, flowers, insects,
crosses, and even skulls (Death's head watches) were made.
These early clock-watches were not worn to tell the time. The accuracy of their verge
and foliot movements was so poor, with errors of perhaps several hours per day, that
they were practically useless. They were made as jewelry and novelties for the nobility,
valued for their fine ornamentation, unusual shape, or intriguing mechanism, and
accurate timekeeping was of very minor importance. [10]
Pocketwatch[edit]
Styles changed in the 17th century and men began to wear watches in pockets instead
of as pendants (the woman's watch remained a pendant into the 20th century). [11] This is
said to have occurred in 1675 when Charles II of England introduced waistcoats.[12] This
was not just a matter of fashion or prejudice; watches of the time were notoriously prone
to fouling from exposure to the elements, and could only reliably be kept safe from harm
if carried securely in the pocket. To fit in pockets, their shape evolved into the
typical pocketwatch shape, rounded and flattened with no sharp edges. Glass was used
to cover the face beginning around 1610. Watch fobs began to be used, the name
originating from the German word fuppe, a small pocket. Later in the 1800s Prince
Albert, the consort to Queen Victoria, introduced the 'Albert chain' accessory, designed
to secure the pocket watch to the man's outergarment by way of a clip. The watch was
wound and also set by opening the back and fitting a key to a square arbor, and turning
it.
The timekeeping mechanism in these early pocketwatches was the same one used in
clocks, invented in the 13th century; the verge escapement which drove a foliot,
a dumbbell shaped bar with weights on the ends, to oscillate back and forth. However,
the mainspring introduced a source of error not present in weight-powered clocks. The
force provided by a spring is not constant, but decreases as the spring unwinds. The
rate of all timekeeping mechanisms is affected by changes in their drive force, but the
primitive verge and foliot mechanism was especially sensitive to these changes, so
early watches slowed down during their running period as the mainspring ran down.
This problem, called lack of isochronism, plagued mechanical watches throughout their
history.
Efforts to improve the accuracy of watches prior to 1657 focused on evening out the
steep torque curve of the mainspring.[11] Two devices to do this had appeared in the first
clock-watches: the stackfreed and the fusee. The stackfreed, a spring-loaded cam on
the mainspring shaft, added a lot of friction and was abandoned after about a century.
The fusee was a much more lasting idea. A curving conical pulley with a chain wrapped
around it attached to the mainspring barrel, it changed the leverage as the spring
unwound, equalizing the drive force. Fusees became standard in all watches, and were
used until the early 19th century. The foliot was also gradually replaced with the balance
wheel, which had a higher moment of inertia for its size, allowing better timekeeping.
Balance spring[edit]
See also: Balance spring
Drawing of one of his first balance springs, attached to a balance wheel, by Christiaan Huygens, published in
his letter in the Journal des Sçavants of 25 February 1675
A great leap forward in accuracy occurred in 1657 with the addition of the balance
spring to the balance wheel, an invention disputed both at the time and ever since
between Robert Hooke and Christiaan Huygens. Prior to this, the only force limiting the
back and forth motion of the balance wheel under the force of the escapement was the
wheel's inertia. This caused the wheel's period to be very sensitive to the force of the
mainspring. The balance spring made the balance wheel a harmonic oscillator, with a
natural 'beat' resistant to disturbances. This increased watches' accuracy enormously,
reducing error from perhaps several hours per day [13] to perhaps 10 minutes per day,
resulting in the addition of the minute hand to the face from around 1680 in Britain and
1700 in France.[14] The increased accuracy of the balance wheel focused attention on
errors caused by other parts of the movement, igniting a two century wave of
watchmaking innovation.[15]
The first thing to be improved was the escapement. The verge escapement was
replaced in quality watches by the cylinder escapement, invented by Thomas
Tompion in 1695 and further developed by George Graham in the 1720s. In Britain a
few quality watches went to the duplex escapement, invented by Jean Baptiste Dutertre
in 1724. The advantage of these escapements was that they only gave the balance
wheel a short push in the middle of its swing, leaving it 'detached' from the escapement
to swing back and forth undisturbed during most of its cycle.
During the same period, improvements in manufacturing such as the tooth-cutting
machine devised by Robert Hooke allowed some increase in the volume of watch
production, although finishing and assembling was still done by hand until well into the
19th century.
Lever escapement[edit]
Thomas Mudge, inventor of the lever escapement
Mass production[edit]
A mechanical watch movement
Wristwatch[edit]
From the beginning, wristwatches were almost exclusively worn by women, while men
used pocketwatches up until the early 20th century. The concept of the wristwatch goes
back to the production of the very earliest watches in the 16th century. Some people
say the world's first wristwatch was created by Abraham-Louis Breguet for Caroline
Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810.[22][23][24][25][26] However, Elizabeth I of England received a
wristwatch from Robert Dudley in 1571, described as an arm watch, 229 years earlier
than the 1810 Abraham-Louis Breguet. By the mid nineteenth century, most
watchmakers produced a range of wristwatches, often marketed as bracelets, for
women.[27]
Wristwatches were first worn by military men towards the end of the nineteenth century,
when the importance of synchronizing maneuvers during war without potentially
revealing the plan to the enemy through signaling was increasingly recognized. It was
clear that using pocket watches while in the heat of battle or while mounted on a horse
was impractical, so officers began to strap the watches to their wrist. The Garstin
Company of London patented a 'Watch Wristlet' design in 1893, although they were
probably producing similar designs from the 1880s. Clearly, a market for men's
wristwatches was coming into being at the time. Officers in the British Army began using
wristwatches during colonial military campaigns in the 1880s, such as during the Anglo-
Burma War of 1885.[27]
During the Boer War, the importance of coordinating troop movements and
synchronizing attacks against the highly mobile Boer insurgents was paramount, and
the use of wristwatches subsequently became widespread among the officer class. The
company Mappin & Webb began production of their successful 'campaign watch' for
soldiers during the campaign at the Sudan in 1898 and ramped up production for the
Boer War a few years later.[27]
These early models were essentially standard pocketwatches fitted to a leather strap,
but by the early 20th century, manufacturers began producing purpose-built
wristwatches. The Swiss company, Dimier Frères & Cie patented a wristwatch design
with the now standard wire lugs in 1903. In 1904, Alberto Santos-Dumont, an
early Brazilian aviator, asked his friend, a French watchmaker called Louis Cartier, to
design a watch that could be useful during his flights. [28] Hans Wilsdorf moved to London
in 1905 and set up his own business with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis, Wilsdorf &
Davis, providing quality timepieces at affordable prices – the company later
became Rolex.[29] Wilsdorf was an early convert to the wristwatch, and contracted the
Swiss firm Aegler to produce a line of wristwatches. His Rolex wristwatch of 1910
became the first such watch to receive certification as a chronometer in Switzerland and
it went on to win an award in 1914 from Kew Observatory in London.[30]
The impact of the First World War dramatically shifted public perceptions on the
propriety of the man's wristwatch, and opened up a mass market in the post-war era.
The creeping barrage artillery tactic, developed during the War, required precise
synchronization between the artillery gunners and the infantry advancing behind the
barrage. Service watches produced during the War were specially designed for the
rigours of trench warfare, with luminous dials and unbreakable glass. Wristwatches
were also found to be needed in the air as much as on the ground: military pilots found
them more convenient than pocket watches for the same reasons as Santos-Dumont
had. The British War Department began issuing wristwatches to combatants from 1917.
[31]
A Cortébert wristwatch (1920s)
The company H. Williamson Ltd., based in Coventry, was one of the first to capitalize on
this opportunity. During the company's 1916 AGM it was noted that "...the public is
buying the practical things of life. Nobody can truthfully contend that the watch is a
luxury. It is said that one soldier in every four wears a wristlet watch, and the other three
mean to get one as soon as they can." By the end of the War, almost all enlisted men
wore a wristwatch, and after they were demobilized, the fashion soon caught on – the
British Horological Journal wrote in 1917 that "...the wristlet watch was little used by the
sterner sex before the war, but now is seen on the wrist of nearly every man in uniform
and of many men in civilian attire." By 1930, the ratio of wrist- to pocketwatches was 50
to 1. The first successful self-winding system was invented by John Harwood in 1923. In
1961 the first wristwatch travelled to space; it was Russian.
Electric watch[edit]
See also: Electric watch
The first generation of electric-powered watches came out during the 1950s. These kept
time with a balance wheel powered by a solenoid, or in a few advanced watches that
foreshadowed the quartz watch, by a steel tuning fork vibrating at 360 Hz, powered by a
solenoid driven by a transistor oscillator circuit. The hands were still moved
mechanically by a wheel train. In mechanical watches the self winding mechanism,
shockproof balance pivots, and break resistant 'white metal' mainsprings became
standard. The jewel craze caused 'jewel inflation' and watches with up to 100 jewels
were produced.
Quartz watch[edit]
See also: Quartz crisis
In 1959, Seiko placed an order with Epson (a daughter company of Seiko and the 'brain'
behind the quartz revolution) to start developing a quartz wristwatch. The project was
codenamed 59A. By the 1964 Tokyo Summer Olympics, Seiko had a working prototype
of a portable quartz watch which was used as the time measurements throughout the
event.
The first quartz watch to enter production was the Seiko 35 SQ Astron, which hit the
shelves on 25 December 1969, which was the world's most accurate wristwatch to date.
[citation needed]
Since the technology having been developed by contributions from Japanese,
American and Swiss,[32] nobody could patent the whole movement of the quartz
wristwatch, thus allowing other manufacturers to participate in the rapid growth and
development of the quartz watch market, This ended — in less than a decade — almost
100 years of dominance by the mechanical wristwatch legacy.
The introduction of the quartz watch in 1969 was a revolutionary improvement in watch
technology.[33] In place of a balance wheel which oscillated at 5 beats per second, it used
a quartz crystal resonator which vibrated at 8,192 Hz, driven by a battery-
powered oscillator circuit. In place of a wheel train to add up the beats into seconds,
minutes, and hours, it used digital counters. The higher Q factor of the resonator, along
with quartz's low temperature coefficient, resulted in better accuracy than the best
mechanical watches, while the elimination of all moving parts made the watch more
shock-resistant and eliminated the need for periodic cleaning. The first digital electronic
watch with an LED display was developed in 1970 by Pulsar. In 1974 the Omega
Marine Chronometer was introduced, the first wrist watch to hold Marine Chronometer
certification, and accurate to 12 seconds per year.
A Pulsar LED quartz watch (1976)
Accuracy increased with the frequency of the crystal used, but so did power
consumption. So the first generation watches had low frequencies of a few kilohertz,
limiting their accuracy. The power saving use of CMOS logic and LCDs in the second
generation increased battery life and allowed the crystal frequency to be increased to
32,768 Hz resulting in accuracy of 5–10 seconds per month. By the 1980s, quartz
watches had taken over most of the watch market from the mechanical watch industry.
This upheaval, which saw the majority of watch manufacturing move to the Far East, is
referred to in the industry as the "quartz crisis".
In 2010, Miyota (Citizen Watch) of Japan introduced a newly developed movement that
uses a new type of quartz crystal with ultra-high frequency (262.144 kHz) which is
claimed to be accurate to +/- 10 seconds a year, and has a smooth sweeping second
hand rather than one that jumps.[34]
Radio-controlled wristwatch[edit]
In 1990, Junghans offered the first radio-controlled wristwatch, the MEGA 1. In this type,
the watch's quartz oscillator is set to the correct time daily by coded radio time signals
broadcast by government-operated time stations such
as JJY, MSF, RBU, DCF77, and WWVB,[35][36] received by a radio receiver in the watch.
This allows the watch to have the same long-term accuracy as the atomic clocks which
control the time signals. Recent models are capable of receiving synchronization signals
from various time stations worldwide.
Atomic wristwatch[edit]
In 2013 Bathys Hawaii[37] introduced their Cesium 133 Atomic Watch[38][39][40] the first watch
to keep time with an internal atomic clock. Unlike the radio watches described above,
which achieve atomic clock accuracy with quartz clock circuits which are corrected by
radio time signals received from government atomic clocks, this watch contains a
tiny cesium atomic clock on a chip. It is reported to keep time to an accuracy of one
second in 1000 years.
The watch is based on a chip developed by the breakthrough Chip Scale Atomic
Clock (CSAC) program of the US Defense Advanced Research Projects
Agency (DARPA) which was initiated in 2001, and produced the first prototype atomic
clock chip in 2005.[41][42] Symmetricom began manufacturing the chips in 2011. Like other
cesium clocks the watch keeps time with an ultraprecise 9.192631770 GHz microwave
signal produced by electron transitions between two hyperfine energy levels in atoms
of cesium, which is divided down by digital counters to give a 1 Hz clock signal to drive
the hands. On the chip, liquid metal cesium in a tiny capsule is heated to vaporize the
cesium. A laser shines a beam of infrared light modulated by a
microwave oscillator through the capsule onto a photodetector. When the oscillator is at
the precise frequency of the transition, the cesium atoms absorb the light, reducing the
output of the photodetector. The output of the photodetector is used as feedback in
a phase locked loop circuit to keep the oscillator at the correct frequency. The
breakthrough that allowed a rack-sized cesium clock to be shrunk small enough to fit on
a chip was a technique called coherent population trapping, which eliminated the need
for a bulky microwave cavity.
The watch was designed by John Patterson, head of Bathys, who read about the chip
and decided to design a watch around it, financed by a Kickstarter campaign. Due to the
large 1½ inch chip the watch is large and rectangular. It must be recharged every 30
hours.
Smartwatch[edit]
Main article: Smartwatch
A smartwatch is a computer worn on the wrist, a wireless digital device that may have
the capabilities of a cellphone, portable music player, or a personal digital assistant.[43]
[44]
By the early 2010s some had the general capabilities of a smartphone, having a
processor with a mobile operating system capable of running a variety of mobile apps.
The first smartwatch was the Linux Watch, developed in 1998 by Steve Mann which he
presented on February 7, 2000. Seiko launched the Ruputer in Japan- it was a
wristwatch computer and it had a 3.6 MHz processor. In 1999, Samsung launched the
world's first watch phone. It was named the SPH-WP10. It had a built-in speaker and
mic, a protruding antenna and a monochrome LCD screen and 90 minutes of talk time.
IBM made a prototype of a wristwatch that was running Linux. The first version had 6
hours battery life and it got extended to 12 in its more advanced version. This device got
better when IBM added an accelerometer, a vibrating mechanism and a fingerprint
sensor. IBM joined with Citizen Watch Co. to create the WatchPad. It features a
320x240 QVGA monochrome touch-sensitive display and it ran Linux version 2.4. It
displayed calendar software, Bluetooth, 8 MB RAM, and 16 MB of flash memory. They
targeted this device at students and businessmen at a price of about $399. Fossil
released the Wrist PDA, a watch that ran Palm OS and contained 8 MB of RAM and 4
MB of flash memory and featured an integrated stylus and a resolution of 160x160. It
was criticized for its weight of 108 grams and was discontinued in 2005.
In early 2004, released the SPOT smartwatch. The company demonstrated it working
with coffee makers, weather stations and clocks with SPOT tech. The smartwatch had
information like weather, news, stocks, and sports scores transmitted through FM
waves. You had to buy a subscription that cost from $39 to $59. Sony Ericsson
launched the Sony Ericsson LiveView, a wearable watch device which is an external BT
display for an Android Smartphone. Pebble is an innovative smartwatch that raised the
most money on Kickstarter reaching 10.3 million dollars between April 12 and May 18.
This watch had a 32 millimeter 144x168 pixel black and white memory LCD
manufactured by Sharp with a backlight, a vibrating motor, a magnetometer, an ambient
light sensor, and a three-axis accelerometer. It can communicate with an Android or iOS
device using both BT 2.1 and BT 4.0 using Stonestreet One's Bluetopia+MFI software
stack. As of July 2013 companies that were making smartwatches or were involved in
smartwatch developments are: Acer, Apple, BlackBerry, Foxconn, Google, LG,
Microsoft, Qualcomm, Samsung, Sony, VESAG and Toshiba. Some notable ones from
this list are HP, HTC, Lenovo and Nokia. Many smartwatches were released at CES
2014. The model featured a curved AMOLED display and a built-in 3G modem. On
September 9, 2014, Apple Inc. announced its first smartwatch named the Apple Watch
and released early 2015. Microsoft released Microsoft Band, a smart fitness tracker and
their first watch since SPOT in early 2004. Top watches at CES 2017 were the Garmin
Fenix 5 and the Casio WSD F20. Apple Watch Series 3 had built-in LTE allowing phone
calls and messaging and data without a nearby phone connection. During a September
2018 keynote, Apple introduced an Apple Watch Series 4. It had a larger display and an
EKG feature to detect abnormal heart function. Qualcomm released their Snapdragon
3100 chip the same month. It is a successor to the Wear 2100 with power efficiency and
a separate low power core that can run basic watch functions as well as slightly more
advanced functions such as step tracking.
Main article: Smartwatch
See also[edit]
Patek Philippe
Breitling
Fortis Uhren AG
IWC
Longines
Raketa
History of timekeeping devices
Zeno-Watch Basel
Horology
References[edit]
1. ^ "Portable Drum Watch". The Walters Art Museum.
2. ^ "Watch". The New Encyclopædia Britannica, 15th Ed. 4. Encyclopædia
Britannica, Inc. 1983. pp. 746–747. ISBN 085229400X. Retrieved June
3, 2012.
3. ^ Haven, Kendall F. (2006). 100 Greatest Science Inventions of All Time.
Libraries Unlimited. p. 65. ISBN 1591582644.
4. ^ "watch". Oxford English Dictionary (Online ed.). Oxford University
Press. (Subscription or participating institution membership required.)
5. ^ Milham, Willis I. (1945). Time and Timekeepers. New York: MacMillan.
pp. 133–137. ISBN 0-7808-0008-7.
6. ^ Carlisle, Rodney P. (2004). Scientific American Inventions and
Discoveries. USA: John Wiley & Sons.
pp. 143. ISBN 0471244104. watch clock henlein.
7. ^ Jump up to:a b Usher, Abbot Payson (1988). A History of Mechanical
Inventions. Courier Dover. p. 305. ISBN 0-486-25593-X.
8. ^ Jump up to:a b Dohrn-van Rossum, Gerhard; Thomas Dunlap
(1996). History of the Hour: Clocks and Modern Temporal Orders. USA:
Univ. of Chicago Press. p. 121. ISBN 0-226-15510-2.
9. ^ From Cosmographia Pomponii Melae, 1511
10. ^ Milham 1945, p.141
11. ^ Jump up to: Perez, Carlos (2001). "Artifacts of the Golden Age, part
a b
External links[edit]
Functioning of a simple mechanical watch
Pictures and overview of the earliest watches
Peter Henlein: Pomander Watch Anno 1505
First American Colonial Watch
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