Fine Cooking 060

special section: quick & delicious pastas
fine
NOVEMBER 2003 NO.60
FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO COOK
thanksgiving how-to ...

roast a moist & flavorful turkey
plus gravy, stuffing, sides & desserts
short ribs
for an easy
d inner party
foolproof
apple tart
quick, tender
beef, pork,
or chicken
the best
vegetable
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READERSERVICE NO. 126
fine ki
OCTO B E R / NOVE � �� 003 ISSU
·
Menu Planning
8 Menus: a plan for the big meal
26 Wine: what goes with turkey?
Holiday Basics & Turkey Roasting

80 From the Test Kitchen:
roasting turkey and
vegetables; making gravy
and cranberry sauce
Side Dishes
58 Vegetable Gratins
71 Wild Rice
56 Swiss Chard
16 Butternut Squash
Desserts
62 Tarte Tatin
74 Pumpkin Desserts
visit our web site: w ww .finecooking.com

F EATURES SPECIAL F OLDOUT
46 DINNER WITH FRIENDS 98G

Short Ribs for a Relaxed Menu Quick &
Center an autumn dinner party around braised
short ribs nestled on lemony mashed potatoes
Delicious
Eight great
by Leslie Revsin
pasta dishes
51 Quickly Braise Beef, Pork, or Chicken

Get tender beef, chicken, pork, or fish-and a flavorful
sauce-all in one pan with this quick braising method
by Molly Stevens
56 WEEKNIGHT IDEA
Swiss Chard Sautes

Follow a basic method and then give it a flavor twist
by Arlene Jacobs
58 Vegetable Gratins on the Side

The secret to making a memorable side dish
is layering the flavors
by Susie Middleton
62 A Foolproof Method for Tarte Tatin

With our tips, you can make this stunning
upside-down apple-caramel tart perfectly every time
by Martha Holmberg
66 Using Up the Turkey

Look forward to the day after Thanksgiving,
when you can make these refreshing turkey dishes
by Jennifer McLagan
71 Wild Rice
Unlock its flavor and texture with
just the right amount of cooking
by Beth Dooley & Lucia Watson
74 Great Pumpkin Desserts

For warm flavor and velvety texture in
cheesecake, bread pudding, cake, and pie,
look to pumpkin
by Regan Daley
x
(}) r ec i p e s
1J
• Quick (under Cover Recipes • Pappardelle with Shrimp Appetizers
45 minutes) Roast Turkey, 81 & Zucchini, 98C ••• Crunchy Roasted Pepitas '
C
• Make-ahead Wild Rice & Bread • Risotto-Style Pasta with 48
• Vegetarian Dressing with Apple, Peas & Mushrooms, 98C
• Baking Apricot & Sage, 72 • Rotini with Spiced Tomato Salads
& Olive Meat Sauce, 98C • Turkey & Blue Cheese
• Turkey Pan Gravy, 82
•• Spaghetti with Pine Nuts,
Salad with Tarragon
•• Roasted Baby Squash, Tomato & Garlic
Mustard Vinaigrette, 69
Carrots & Potatoes, 84
••• Mashed Potatoes with &
Breadcrumbs, 98C Sauces, Condiments
Lemon & Garlic, 48 Seasonings
••• Cranberry Sauce with
Side Dishes
••• Cranberry Sauce with • Butternut Squash, Apple, Star Anise & Port, 86
Star Anise & Port, 86 Leek & Potato Gratin
with a Cheddar Crust, ••• Spicy Roasted Tomato
Main Dishes 59 Salsa, 70
• Asian-Style Beef Short ••• Mashed Potatoes with
••• Tarragon-Mustard
Lemon & Garlic, 48
Ribs, 49 Vinaigrette, 69
• Beer-Braised Sirloin Tips • Turkey Pan Gravy, 82
Red Potato, Cabbage &
with Mushroom Sauce Bacon Gratin, 61
54 ' Soups
• Halibut Braised in a •• Roasted Baby Squash, • Ajiaco (Colombian
Carrots & Potatoes, 84 Chicken Soup), 34
Tomato-Fennel Broth, 55
• Orange-Braised Chicken •• Roasted Butternut • Butternut Squash Soup
Squash, 18 with Cumin & Coriander'
with Prosciutto, 52
• Pork Chops with Sweet •• Sauteed Swiss Chard, 56 18
• Sauteed Swiss Chard Beef & Wild Rice Soup, 73
Onions & Capers, 53
with Anchovies, Parme Turkey & Vegetables in a
san & Breadcrumbs, 57
Roast Turkey, 81 Saffron-Scented Broth
Turkey Cakes with Spicy
•• Sauteed Swiss Chard with Couscous, 68
Tomato Salsa, 70
with Asian-Style with • Turkey Giblet Broth, 8 1
Ginger & Peanuts, 57 • Turkey Sou p with Ginger'
Lemon & Mint, 69
Pasta
• Bucatini in a Spicy Tomato •• Sauteed Swiss Chard
Sauce with Crisped with Gremolata, 57 • Turkey Stock, 67
Pancetta, 98C •• Sauteed Swiss Chard Desserts
• Farfalle in a Broth of Wild with Slivered Almonds
•• Classic Tarte Tatin, 65
Mushrooms & Browned & Browned Butter, 57
Shallots, 98C •• Sauteed Swiss Chard ••• Pate Brisee, 64
• Linguine with Clams & with Sun-Dried • Pear & Hazelnut Gratin '
Lemon-Garlic Oil, 98C Tomatoes & Feta, 57 50
• Orecchiette with Caramel • Sweet Potato-Russet ••• Pum p kin & Cornmeal
ized Garlic, Sausage & Potato Gratin with Cake with Orange
Horseradish & a Dijon Syrup, 78
••• Pumpkin Bread Pudding '
Broccoli, 98C
Crust, 60
Pumpkin, Sweet Potato & Coconut Pie, 75
Wild Rice & Bread 76
Dressing with Apple, ••• Pumpkin, Sweet Potato &
Apricot & Sage, 72 Coconut Pie, 75
Pork Chops with Sweet Onions & Capers, 53 • Wild Rice with Dried ••• Spiced Pumpkin
----- Cranberries & Cheesecake with a
Hazelnuts, 71 Gingersnap Crust, 77
••• Tender Pie Crust, 79
i n g r e di e n t s
Apples, caramelizing, 63. 65 Pumpkin, canned vs. fresh. 79;
Baby vegetables. roasting, 85 pure solid pack vs. pie
filling, 79
Bacon. brands rated. 88
Short ribs. braising, 49
Bread, storing. 20
Sirloin tips, braising, 54;
Butternut squash, growing, identifying 54
16; pairing with flavors. 16;
roasting. 18 Star anise. 86
Chicken. braiSing. 52 Swiss chard, sauteing. 56
Chiles. fresh. 36 Turkey. handling leftovers, 66;
making giblet broth, 81;
Cilantro, 36 making turkey stock, 66-67;
Halibut. braising. 55 roasting, 81 ; trussing, 80
Jerusalem artichokes. 20 Wild rice. "authentic" vs.
Pepitas.48 cultivated, 73; cooking, 71;
testing for doneness. 71 -
Pork chops, braising. 53 72; sources, 90
Photos: Scott Phillips

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READERSERVICE NO. 118 READERSERVICE NO. 148
O C T O B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2003 7
an sgiving Celebration
c starters
Crunchy Roa st ed Pepitas, p. 48
&
&
Butternut Squ a sh Soup with
Cu min Coriander, p. 18
main course
.
Roast Turkey & Pan Gra vy, pp. 81-82
sides
M a sh ed Potatoes with Lemon & Garlic, p. 48
&
Roast ed Ba b y Veg etabl es, p. 84
&
&
&
Wild Rice Bread Dressing with
App l e, Apricot Sage, p. 72
P &
age through this issue and you'll discover many
& Port,
terrific recipes for a traditional Thanksgiving. We've
brought several of them together in the menu at
Cra n b erry Sauce with Star Ani se p. 86
right, but feel free to customize it-try swapping the

mashed potatoes and roasted vegetables for Butternut
Squash, Apple , Leek & Potato Gratin with a Cheddar dessert
& Coconut P i e,
Crust ( p. 59) and Sauteed Swiss Chard ( p. 56).
Pu mpki n , Sweet Potato
or
Once the big day passes, it's time for quick suppers p. 75
and laid-back entertaining, so we've made a few

suggestions along those lines as well. And while turkey
sandwiches are a must in the days after Thanksgiving,
Spiced P u mpkin Cheesecake with
don't miss our article on more creative ways to use up a Gin g ersnap Cru st , p. 77
the turkey ( p. 66) .
Remember to check the yield on each recipe, as you may need to double it (or halve it) to suit your needs.
Weeknight Pasta Supper Comforting Fall Friday Night with Friends

Entertaining
A green salad with Orange-Braised Chicken
Tarragon-Mustard Vinaigrette, p. 69 Pork Chops with Sweet Onions, with Crisp Prosciutto, p. 52
Capers & Vermouth, p. 53
Rotini with Spiced Tomato & Sweet Potato-Russet Potato Gratin
Black Olive Meat Sauce, p. 98C Red Potato, Cabbage, Bacon & with Horseradish
OR
Gruyere Gratin, p. 6 1 & a Dijon Crust, p. 60
Spaghetti with Pine Nuts, Tomato
& Garlic Breadcrumbs, p. 98C Sauteed Swiss Chard, p . 56 Pumpkin & Cornmeal Cake
with Orange Syrup, p. 78
Pear & Hazelnut Gratin, p. 50 Classic Tarte Tatin, p. 65
8 FINE C O O K I N G Photo: Scott Phillips

The recipe for this delici
ous
\\aspberry Tart can be found at
.
ww
.halw npurefoods.c IIJ
o
o
(J) from the editor
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(])
�
READER REVI EW S , NEW TITLES, AND CO O K I ES
Fine Cooking staff loves-and CObking.
(])
One thing everyone on the
needs-to know is which stories, techniques, tips, and EDITOR
Susie Middleton
- recipes you find most valuable in each issue. That's why it's
ART DIRECTOR
great to meet you when we're on the road teaching classes Steve Hunter
or at events, and why we love getting feedback from you.

MANAGING EDITOR
Some of you may have even received one of our "every Sarah Jay
issue" surveys in the mail. SENIOR EDITOR

Amy Albert
Starting with this issue, we've devised a new way to get
TEST KITCHEN MANAGER/RECIPE EDITOR
feedback. We've asked a few readers to try out some of our Jennifer Armentrout
recipes (after we've fully tested them in our test kitchens) ASSOCIATE EDITORS
before going to press. We're calling this program "Reader Tony Rosenfeld, Re becca Freedman
EDITOR AT LARGE
Review," and we think it will be valuable for us, but also for Maryellen Driscoll
you. We'll publish the highlights of our readers' comments SENIOR COPY/PRODUCTION EDITOR
LiAgen
next to the recipes. In this issue, see what Robert
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR
Bembinster of Frisco, Texas, said after he cooked Leslie Annie Glammattei
Fine Cooking reader, you

Revsin's delicious short ribs menu on p. 46 for his friends. EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Kim Landi
By the way, if you're a long-time
TEST KITCHEN INTERN
might notice a different name at the end of this letter, but Jocelyn B. Palmer
don't worry: Martha Holmberg hasn't gone away-she's PHOTO COORDINATOR

Jessica Bard
been promoted to publisher. In her new role, she'll still be
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
helping me and our terrific staff and contributors create the Shirley O. Corriher,
Abigail Johnson Dodge,
most useful and inspiring magazine we can (and occasionally
Tim Gaiser, Molly Stevens
Some of you will recognize my name as Fine

sharing some great recipes like her tarte Tatin on p. 62).
Cooking's resident Vegetable Queen. Well, OK, my

MARKETING MANAGER
Ellen Kracht
SINGLE COPY SALES MANAGER

official title has been executive editor, but when I'm Mark Stlekman
not at my desk, you can usually find me doing what

PUBLISHER
58, making one of my fall vegetable gratins.

I love best-messing around in the kitchen. That's Martha Holmberg
me on p. ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Jeff Dwight
So while the editor title may be new for me, my passion for
ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER
helping you to become a better cook (and have fun at the Molly Cole
same time) certainly isn't. SENIOR NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGERS
Holiday Baking, which includes our selection of your holiday

Joel Burger, Laura Haddad Rose
Don't forget that the next issue is our second annual edition
ACCOUNT MANAGERS
of Lisa O'Connor, Kathy Reilly
Fine Cooking recipes are for our upcoming tenth anniver

cookies. And be sure to let us know what your all-time favor ADVERTISING SALES SUPPORT ASSOCIATE
Christina Kryzanski
ite
1072-5121) is published
-Susie Middleton, editor
Fine Cooking: (ISSN:
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O C TOBER/N oV E M B E R 2003 11
(f)
L
from our readers
(])
� The Taunton Press
Inspirarion for hands-on living"
(]) Who kill ed the to mato ?
I enjoyed the article on tomato
use one: It's illegal to cook on an
open fire where I live. So I've used
salads in Fine Cooking #59. Curi a regular Lodge cast-iron grill pan
for years. Here's a tip for cook
INDEPENDENT PUBLISHERS SINCE 1975
ously, the molecule you describe TAU TON. INC.
as a cold-labile flavor component, ing thicker foods: After you've Founders. Paul and Jan Roman
( 2 )-3 dexenal, doesn't exist to my marked them, move the pan into
THE TAUNTON PRESS
knowledge . There are over 400 a hot oven to finish the cooking.
President & CEO John Lively
volatile compounds associated You get the advantages of tasty,
Editor In Chief Sue Roman
arah Roman
with the flavor and aroma of ripe seared grill marks and the even,
Chief Marketing Officer S
tomatoe s , and one of these, surrounding heat of the oven.
Chief Financial Officer Timothy Rahr
which has often been associated -Suzanne Fass, New York City
Chief of Operatiom Thomas L uxeder
with flavor loss during cool stor Publisher, Magazine Group Jon Miller
age, is cis-3-hexenal, probably the Ice crea m coo l s chile burn s Publisher, Book Group James Childs
one you meant. There's consider In Fine Cooking #59's Q&A, Jim
DIRECTORS
able debate among food scien Peyton advises readers to wash
Creative Director Susan Edelman
tists around the contribution of their hands after handling hot
Human R�sourus Director Carol Marotti
any one specific compound to chile s . Having had an unfortu
Technology Services Director Edward Kingston
tomato flavor or aroma , and nate encounter with a mislabeled
Controller Wayne Reynolds
many of these 400 volatiles de incendiary chile, might I add that
Promotion Director Steven Turk
crease in concentration when once skin begins to burn after
Fulfillment Director Patricia Wtlliamson
stored at cool temperatures. But contact with hot chiles, water and
Kathleen Davis
TAUNTON TRADE COMPANY
there is widespread agreement ice only worsen the discomfort
Director.
( rare among food-loving scien because of a chemical reaction
tists!) that tomatoes taste better with the capsaicin. Fortunately,
Sarah Roman
TAUNTON DIRECT
President.
when kept out of the refrigerator. dairy products disarm the cap
-Anthony J. Kinney, saicin, so the best thing to do is TAUNTON NEW MEDIA
Food & Feed Research Group,

Director. Leslie Kern
to apply milk, yogurt, or ice
•
DuPont Experimental Station cream to the affected skin.
-Sue Hough, via email
Editors' reply: You're entirely right THE TAUNTON STAFFBooks: Marketing: Allison
COokin
Hollett. Audrey Locororondo. Editorial: Maria Taylor. Helen
about food scientists agreeing on Albert, Perer Chapman, Robyn Doyon-Ai[ken. Maureen
one point and disagreeing on an Graney, Carolyn Mandarano, Jennifer Renjilian Morris,
... around the country g

David Palmer. Jennifer Peters. Amy Reilly. Erica Sanders-
other. Most ( including our food
Foege. Timothy Snyder. Kathleen Williams. Marilyn
scientist, Shirley Corriher) agree Zelinsky-Syarto. Art: Paula Schlosser. Joanne Bisson, Nancy
that refrigerating tomatoes is a Boudreau. Wendi Mijal. Lynne Phillips. Carol Singer.
RosaJind Wanke. Mnnufocrurillg: Thomas Greco.
bad idea. And many disagree as October 25: Fine Cooking is the
BusinessOffice: Holly Smith. Gayle Hammond. Legal:
to which compound is respon media sponsor of Les Dames Carolyn Kovaleski. Milgazin� Prillt Production: Philip Van
sible for the flavor deterioration. d'Escoffier New York "Festival of Kirk, Nicole Anasras.
Shirley's research for her book Sweets" at the Institute for Culinary Distribution: Paul Seipold. Aaron Lund. Sergio Colon.
Cookwise identified (Z)-3 dexenal Education (formerly Peter Kump's), Leanne Furlong, Deborah Greene. Linnea lngram. Jennifer
Licursi, Andrew Lowder, Frederick Monnes. Raymond
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For info, call 2 1 2·966·9799 or email
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[email protected]. Henchdiffe, Susan ladarola, David Pond. Accounting: Parrick
us: that we misprinted the com
Lamontagne. John Vaccino, lrene Arfaras, Lydia Krikorian,
pound as (2)-3 dexenal, which ex November 6-8: Learn to create Elaine Yamin. Carol Diehm. Margaret Bafundo. Dorothy
plains why you never heard of it. holiday menus that work, select the Blasko. Susan Burke. James Post, Lorraine Parsons, Priscilla
Whatever the answer, we're glad right wines, and put it all together in Wakeman.
to know that "food-loving" scien

style at "Feasting with Friends:' a week Fulfillment: Diane Goulart. Cliellt Services: Jodi Klein.
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end of hands-on and demonstration
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goal: great flavor.
berg, contributing editor Molly Stevens, Margaret Hicock, Barbara Lowe, Eileen McNulry, Patricia
and other culinary experts. The event Parks, Deana Parker, Patricia Pineau, Betry Stepney, Marylou
Grill p a n s a n d sear-roa sting takes place at the San Franci sco Sur Thompson. Data Entry: Melissa Dugan. Anne Champlin.
Resources:
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After reading your equipment re La Table store on Maiden Lane. For info Sweeny.
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#59, I 'd add another reason to visit www.finecooking.com/feasting. Dawn Ussery.
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videos. JUSt call us toll-free at
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rnc., and Taunton Nev.' Media, Inc., are all subsidiaries ofTaunron, Inc.
READER
OCTOBER/NoVEMBER 2003 13
(f)
L
a
4-'
:J
..0 LESLI E R EV S I N ("Dinner with
L Friends," p. 46) honed her cooking

skills in the kitchen of the Waldorf
4-'
C
Astoria Hotel, where she was the
first woman chef; she later became
a
the chef-owner of Restaurant
Leslie, a bistro in Manhattan.
o
A longtime New Yorker, Leslie is
preparing to move west to the
Seattle area to be closer to her
grandchildren. Her newest book,
Come For Dinner: Memorable
Meals to Share with Friends, is
hot off the press.
Gratins:' p. 58) says people still northern Minnesota. For the past
(
MOLLY STEV E N S ("Quick remember her article on summer 1 8 years, Lucia has been the
Braises," p. 5 1 ) says that her love vegetable gratins Fine Cooking chef-owner of Lucia's Restaurant,
of braising can be traced back #33) best. "What I love is that an American-style bistro in
to both her mother's pot roast people tell me they've learned to Minneapolis. Beth writes for
and her time as a student at make them from that article, and The Star Tribune newspaper and
La Varenne cooking school in the then have gone on to vary them Mpls/StPaul Magazine, among
Burgundy countryside, where she to make them their own. That's other publications. Her books
Leslie Revsin what cooking's all about:' For this include Williams-Sonoma's New
learned many of the classic French
braises. Lately, braising is almost issue, Susie decided to reprise American Heartland Cooking and
all Molly can think about as she is the subject of gratins by develop Peppers Hot & Sweet. Together
writing a book on the subject to be ing a technique for wintervege Beth and Lucia wrote Savoring
published in August 2004. tables that would produce the Seasons of the Northern
great results, too. Susie is Fine Heartland.
After cooking in some of the better Cooking's editor.
kitchens in New York City like R EGAN DALEY ("Pumpkin

Lafayette and Lipstick Cafe, MARTHA HOLM B E RG ("Tarte Desserts," p. 74) is the author of
ARLE N E JACOBS ("Swiss Chard Tatin:' p. 62), Fine Cooking's In the Sweet Kitchen, which won
Sautes," p. 56) traded her toque publisher, learned to bake this the IACP Cookbook of the Year
for a teaching pointer to become a classic dessert when she studied award in 2001 . The idea for In
chef-instructor at the French cooking in Paris at La Varenne. the Sweet Kitchen-an opus of
Regan Daley Culinary Institute, which she also "When it comes to dessert, I'm almost 300 pages of ingredient
attended as a student. When she's all about great flavor and texture profiles and recipes-came to her
not teaching, Arlene is a freelance and less about looks. While this while she was working in a cook
food writer and recipe developer. tart is in fact really gorgeous, it's book store in Toronto and was
rustic, so I don't need to fuss searching for a baking book with
In seven years of dreaming up over getting everything perfect:' an ingredient-and-flavor-driven
vegetable recipes (for everything approach. Before taking time to
from escarole soup to potato For B ETH DOOLEY and LUCIA write her cookbook, Regan
galettes) and writing vegetable WATSON ("Wild Rice:' p. 7 1 ), worked both the pastry and savory
articles for Fine Cooking, SUSI E cooking with wild rice is practi sides of some of Toronto's best
Arlene Jacobs MI DDLETON ("Vegetable cally a prerequisite for living in restaurants, including Avalon.
14 F I N E C O O K I NG Photos; AmyAlbert (McLagan & Daley); Scott Phillips (Revsin Jacobs).

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READER SERVICE NO, 1 43 READER SERVICE NO. 46
O C T O B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2 0 03 15
c
o Six ideas for
en cooking squa sh
Taming the
W (
ith its sweet, creamy, dark-orange
ca sweetness of
flesh, butternut squash is one of
U s e a sturdy V-shaped peeler to
peel butternut squash see
CD
the best and most versatile of aU
Equipment, p. 2 2). Whichever way
the fall squashes. But too often I find
you cook butternut squash, be
en Butternut that recipes made with butternut

sure it's tender all the way
C
squash are like a one-note song-all
through, but stop short of mushy.
Squash
sweetness with no contrast. I think the
secret to delicious butternut squash .:. Saute diced butternut
dishes is providing something tart or squash in olive oil with
BY R UT H L I VELY tangy to balance the sweet richness. minced garlic and plenty of
salt and pepper. Add a little
A l ittl e bit of a bold fla vor
chopped sage and grated
can do th e trick
lemon zest at the end.
When I cook with butternut squash,
I always use one of these assertive in .:. Braise diced butternut
gredients to balance the sweetness: squash on the stovetop in a
Orange or lemon juice (or zest) adds l ittle chicken stock, sauteed
brightness and zing. A splash of vine shallots, white wine, and butter.
gar helps, too. .:. Bake a squash gratin_ Slice
Tomatoes, which are both sweet and raw butternut squash thinly,
acidic, make a bridge for full-flavored combine it with sliced pota
squash dishes like the soup on p. 18. toes, tomatoes, sauteed
(
Sharp cheeses like Asiago, Parme onions, and herbs for a deli
san, feta, and goat cheese lend a salty cious side dish or see the
note and highlight the nutty side of gratin recipe on p. 59).
squash's flavor. .:. Roast chunky cubes of
Robust herbs, such as sage , rose butternut squash with other
mary, and thyme, work with the earthy fall vegetables-onions,
qualities of the squash, yet still offer an turnips, carrots, shallots, and
assertive contrast to its sweet side , too. sweet potatoes-all tossed
Bold spices like cumin, coriander, with olive oil, salt, and pepper.
nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, ginger, and Add a splash of sherry vinegar
curry have a natural affinity to squash, toward the end of cooking,
making the perfect bridge from earthy and garnish generously with
to intriguing. minced fresh parsley.
•:. Roast small cubes of butter
nut squash tossed in a simple
seasoning of olive oil, salt, and
chopped rosemary.
•:. Toss leftover sauteed or
roasted cubes of butternut
squash with a tangy, citrus
Growing your own buttern ut squash spiked vinaigrette for a
Butternut squash are satisfying t o grow. The flowers are b i g and showy, the satisfying and beautiful
fruits are fun to watch as they develop, and the harvested squash keep well for addition to a salad. Add a
months. If you decide to grow your own next year, carve out a bit of space garnish of toasted n uts, dried
for these vines. My favorite varieties include Burpee Butterbush, a compact, cranberries or cherries, and
early variety whose small fruits are fine for two people and which has tough some crumbled goat cheese
or shavings of Parmesan.
stems that deter squash vine borers; Early Butternut, which has fruits that
mature in the same time but are larger; and Waltham, a larger plant with very
For recipes and other uses for
tasty but longer-to-mature fruit. Whatever variety you grow, let the fruits butternut squash, turn to p. 18.
mature on the vine until their skins have hardened to the point that you can't
pierce them with your fingernail. For seed sources, see Where to Buy It, p. 90.

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READER SERVICE NO. 1 3 9
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READER SERVICE NO. 1 24 READER SERVICE NO. 1 44
O C T O B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2 0 03 17
c
o
en
ca
CD
en B utternut Squash Soup with Cumin &
C Yields about 6 cups; serves four to six.
2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 medium onion, diced
% teaspoon kosher salt
% teaspoon ground cum i n
% teaspoon ground coriander
1 4Y2-ounce can diced tomatoes, with
their juices (I l i ke Del Monte brand)
Freshly ground black pepper
Flesh of a roasted 2-pound butternut
squash (see the recipe at right)
3 cups homemade or low-salt
canned chicken broth
1 tablespoon plain yogurt or heavy
cream per serving for garnish
1 ta blespoon m inced fresh
flat-leaf parsley
Heat the oil and butter in a heavy

soup pot set over medium heat.
Add the o n ion and salt and saute for
2 minutes and then cover and let
sweat until translucent, about 3 min
utes. Uncover and cook, stirring
occasionally, until the onions begin to
brown, 3 to 5 m i nutes. Add the cumin
and coriander and cook, stirring, until Roasted B utter n ut
very fragrant, about 3 0 seconds. Stir Squash Other ways to u se
i n the tomatoes and their juices, sea Yields 1% cups chunks or 1 % cups roasted squash
son with a few g rinds of pepper, and mashed.
cook for 2 m i nutes. Cover and simmer .:. Fill ravioli with roasted butternut
Roasting concentrates the best flavors
for another 1 0 minutes. Peel the squash mixed with a little cream and
in squash and turns it into a delicious
roasted squash and add the flesh to Parmesan.
ingredient to be used in other dishes,
the pot, breaking it u p with a wooden
like the soup at left, or some of the .:. Make a risotto by stirring in dollops of
spoon . Add the ch icken broth, cover,
ideas l isted at right. roasted butternut squash; try sauteed
and bring to a simmer. Adjust the heat
to maintain a simmer and cook, 2-pound butternut squash slivered sage leaves as a garnish.
covered, for 3 0 minutes. Let cool Olive oil .:. For a pasta sauce, start with roasted
slig htly and puree in small batches i n Kosher salt and freshly ground
squash and puree with cream, chicken
a blender o r a food processor (don ' t black pepper
broth, and a little vinegar.
fill the vessel more than one-thi rd full
and vent the lid or you risk getting Heat the oven to 400°F. Cut the .:. Layer roasted butternut squash in a
splashed with hot soup) . Taste and squash in half lengthwise. Use a
lasagna with wilted spinach or chard,
add more salt and pepper if needed. soupspoon to scoop out the seeds
feta, and a vibrant tomato sauce. Use
Retu rn the soup to the pot and stir and scrape out the strings from the
hollow. Rub the cut surfaces with oil, it sparingly throughout, or make one
occasionally over low heat u ntil hot.
season generously with salt and entire layer of butternut squash.
Garnish each serving with a spoonful
of yogurt or a drizzle of cream and a pepper, and roast o n a parchment- or .:. Puree roasted butternut squash
sprinkling of the minced parsley. foi l-lined baking sheet, cut side up, with spices like cumin, coriander,
until deeply browned and very tender,
ginger, or curry. Add a squeeze of
about 80 to 90 minutes. Let cool
orange juice and a little grated zest
before using in other recipes, or cover
and refrigerate for u p to two days. for a great side dish.
.:. Or mash it with plenty of butter and
a little tangy goat cheese for an alter
.•
native to mashed potatoes.
Ruth Lively was the senior editor of Kitchen Gardener magazine
18 FINE C O O K I NG
Why does Parmig iano Reggiano
sometimes have a gritty texture ?
-Amanda Stevens, Richmond, Virginia preparations: grated or sliced raw
Robert Aschebrock replies: Granular, gritty specks

into salads; diced and sauteed with
anchovi e s , garlic , and pa rsley;
are quite common in aged cheeses like Parmigiano boiled and dressed with a vinai
Reggiano, C he ddar, and Asiago. The specks are grett e ; o r roasted with other fall
caused by the crystallization of calcium that is in the milk and vegetables.
that has been added to the milk during the cheesemaking pro I f you're tempted to grow Jeru
cess. ( Federal regulations allow for an addition of up to 0.02 % salem artichokes, be aware that they
of the weight of a dairy ingredient to be calcium, which helps spread rapidly and are very difficult
with coagulation. ) to get rid of. Also , two varieties,
As a cheese ages, the calcium breaks down and forms crys Fuseau and Smooth Garnet, are not
tals, which become hard. Some people may not like this tex knobby and are therefore easier
ture, but these specks don't indicate anything wrong with the to peel.
cheese. Rather, they're a natural byproduct of the process for Ruth Lively is the former senior editor
making a well-aged cheese. of Kitchen Gardener magazine.
Robert Aschebrock, formerly a USDA cheese and butter grader,
is a consultant for other cheese graders.
What is citric acid, and
why is it used in canned
tomatoes?
What's the best way to
-Adam Werner, via email
sara J. Risch replies:

wra p . Use two sheets of plastic
A
store bread?
wrap, one enveloping the loaf end to
end; the other side to sid e . This is
Citric acid is an acidic com
-Jackie Johnson, Davis, California superior to plastic bags, since air can
Peter Reinhart replies:

pound and antioxidant that
become trapped in bags, leading to
A
occurs naturally in a wide variety
moisture crystals and freezer burn.
Do you have of foods , including fruits and vege
The answer to this question
a q u esti o n of
Peter Reinhart is the author of tables. It's the compound that gives
depends largely on the
five books on baking and cooking, lemons and limes their tangy taste.
g e n e ral i n terest bread itself. C rusty hearth breads
including American Pie : My Search The citric acid that is added to
about cooki n g ? are best stored in paper because this
for the Perfect Pizza. other foods such as canned toma
S e n d it t o Q&A, lets the bread breathe and keeps it
toes is generally produced by fer
Fine Cooking, crusty. Soft, enriched bread and rolls
menting pineapple scraps or other
PO Box 5506, should be stored in plastic.
What are Jerusalem fruit scraps, or by fermenting a solu
It's best to store all breads in a
Newtow n , CT
06470-5506, cool, dry place away from sunlight. artichokes? tion of molasses and water.
-Sara Nelson, via email C itric acid is added to canned
Ruth Lively replies: Jeru

If you plan to keep crusty bread like
or by e m a i l to
A
tomatoes as a firming agent. It helps
a baguette for more than one day, or
[email protected], keep whole tomatoes from falling
a soft, enriched bread for more than salem a rtichoke s , also
and w e ' l l fi n d apart during the canning process.
two, there really is no substitute for called sunchokes , have no
a cooki n g I f the tomatoes are cut up before
freezing. ( Never refrigerate bread, relation to globe a rtichoke s , but
professional canning, the acid keeps them in
because that actually dries it out they are close kin to sunflowers. The
with the answer. discrete pieces. Citric acid also low
faster). The longer bread sits out, the edible portion of a Jerusalem arti
ers the tomatoes' pH level, which is
more its texture deteriorates, and its choke is the tuberous, knobby root,
important for the sterilization
flavor can be affected by absorbing which looks somewhat like ginger.
process.
other flavors. It has a nutty, slightly sweet flavor
•
The best method for freezing a Sara ]. Risch, Ph.D., is a consultant
that adapts well to a number of
loaf is to "cater wrap" it in plastic on food science and technology.
20 F I N E C O O KING
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READER SERVICE N O . 1 2 1
O C T O B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2003 21
+-'
C
Q) The ski n ny o n
vegeta b l e pee l e rs
E BY M A R Y E L L E N D R I S C O L L
(L
--
:J
F
lipping through cookware catalogs, I can't
say that I 've ever tagged a page thinking,
IT "Maybe I 'll upgrade my vegetable peeler."
Q)
I 've always been pleased with the one I 've had .
Then I started working on this article, swiping
two dozen peelers across carrots, apples, win
ter squash, and more. The tests revealed three
categories of peelers. There are the kind that
just plain stink-they slip, they struggle, they
Kuhn Rikon Stainless
strain and gouge . Then there a re the
Steel Vegetable Peeler
majority of peelers, which do a satis
$1 2.99
factory job-most of the time www.chefscatalog.com
occasionally stuttering thro ugh 800-884-2433
the rugged skin of a sweet potato or Yes, our favorite peeler was the less
thick, waxy skin of a butternut squash, slip familiar Y shape. But what really
kept catching our attention was its
ping while peeling a carrot, or taking up a little
ultrasharp blade, working so nimbly
too much bitter pith when zesting a lemon.
that it seemed to skate effortlessly
Finally, there are the ace peelers. They hesi beneath fruit and vegetable skins.
tate at no task. They effortlessly swipe away Curiously, this was the only Y- or
)
skins without grabbing a whole lot of fruit or harp-shaped peeler in the tests
(we tried many that didn't remove
vegetable flesh along with it. They fit comfort
excessive amounts of flesh ; it took
ably in your hand . They're noticeably sharp. only what was needed. If you ' re used
And they have spoiled my relationship with to a straight peeler, the Y shape can
my once satisfactory peeler forever. take some getting used to. Made of
stainless steel with a swivel-action
blade, this peeler doesn't come with
a potato-eye remover.
Turn to p. 24 to see the runners-up.
What we looked fo r i n a peeler

We tested three styles of vegetable peelers: straight peelers
with fixed blades; straight peelers with swivel blades; and
harp-shaped or "Y" peelers (like the one shown above), which
typically sport a swivel blade. We ran 24 peelers through
preliminary tests before paring the finalists down to a dozen.
From there, we selected five for their overall excellence at all
of the peel ing tests, which included paring apples, carrots,
butternut squash, Idaho potatoes, sweet potatoes, and lemon
zest. Unfortunately, our tests cou ldn't measure the test of
time-how long a peeler will stay sharp.
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READER SERVICE NO. 22 READER SERVICE NO. 93
A beautiful solution to a pressing problem • • •

The Rosie garlic press's powerful lever mechanism
allows for easy pressing of peeled or unpeeled garlic. �
To find a Rosie retailer near you, please call
1 302 326 4801 or inquire at our website www.rosleusa.com
�
O C T O B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2003 23
4-J
C
Q)
R u n n e rs- u p
E
Kitchen Aid Euro Peeler
$8.99 the exception, as there

in order of preference
0..
www.lnt.com; was some hesitation in
866-568-7378 peeling ; yet it picked up
:J
the least pith of all peelers
With a sharper-than-average tested. The one real com
IT swiveling blade, this peeler plaint is that the handle is
Q) swept through nearly every

task. Its peeling action was
bulky, making it awkward
for smaller hands to hold.
consistently smooth and It also doesn't have a
shallow. Lemon zest was potato-eye remover.
Farberware Professional Euro Peeler
$4.99 ping around the fruit while

The best available in supermarkets taking little flesh with it. The
and kitchen stores; or see peeler was equally assured
peele rs
www.farberware.com at peeling lemon zest. It did
req u i re the 800-252-3390 grab a bit of flesh when
least work peeling potatoes, and the
We found that some peelers This swivel peeler made potato-eye remover has an
needlessly gouge as they peeling a thick-skinned unconventional shape that
peel, taking more flesh than butternut squash much less took a little getting used to.
necessary along with the trying. It also worked beauti The plastic handle has a
peel and making the task of fully on apples, easily wrap- comfortable grip.
peeling feel more like a tug
of war. Our favorite peelers Henckels Twin Select Swivel Peeler
were well balanced, making
$9.95 ling a winter squash. It also
shallow cuts that didn't
www.cutleryandmore.com; peeled apples well. Zesting
waste good food yet that
800-650-9866 a lemon didn't always pro-
did a clean job. The cuts,
duce long, smooth strips of
however, were not so thin
Tying in overall performance zest, but the blade picked
that you had to double back
with the Farberware (above), up hardly any pith. The
when peeling thick-skinned
this swivel peeler' s notably stainless-steel handle is
vegetables.
sharp blade proved quite sleek but not the most
versatile: delicately sweep comfortable, and the potato
an ideal peel :
nice and thin ing thin layers off a carrot eye remover has a some
yet having no trouble tack- what jagged action.
Zyliss Swivel Peeler
$6.99 a straight-handled peeler.

www.kitchenetc.com; This swivel peeler was
800-232-4070 among the best at peeling
a poor peel: apples. It wasn't as smooth
gouged and thick
The unusual angle of this when it came to peeling
peeler's handle was per lemon zest, but it picked up
fectly comfortable, but it a negligible amount of pith.
was hard to tell if it was The potato-eye remover at
ergonomically superior to the tip worked beautifully.
Maryellen Driscoll is Fine Cookings editor at large .•

IAlY
NEW YORK CITY
ChefMichael
Executive Chif
IJe Georgio
ifIICortile
Ask any New Yorker where to go
for fine Italian dining and they'll
Rigatoni with Eggplant

most likely recommend II Cortile.
& Spicy Peppers

Located on Mulberry Street in the
heart of New York City's Little
Italy, II Cortile is legendary. For
nearly two decades, Chef Michael Ingredients (servesJour)
DeGeorgio has been serving 4 cloves of garlic, cracked
classic Italian cuisine in the 4 shallots
restaurant's romantic, indoor 4 oz. Colavita Extra Virgin Olive Oil
garden dining room to rave 1 8 oz. canned plum tomatoes
reviews. Considered one of 1 12 cup chicken broth
Salt, pepper, oregano, red pepper
the most experienced Italian
and fresh basil to taste
chefs in the U.S., Michael
4 Italian hot finger peppers, sliced and cut
cooks exclusively with
3 whole eggplants, sliced 3/4 inch thick
authentic Italian ingredients, 1 12 cup Parmigiano Reggiano
like COLAVITA Extra Virgin cheese, grated
Olive Oil and COLAVITA 1 lb. Colavita Rigatoni
1.
Pastas, which have been
staples in II Cortile's kitchen In a heavy saute pan, saute the garlic
since Colavita was fust and shallots in 2 oz. extra virgin olive oil
introduced in the United until golden brown. Add in the broth and
States 30 years ago. the tomatoes. Bring to a boil and season
with salt, pepper, oregano, red pepper
and fresh basil. Simmer for 20 minutes.
Puree sauce through a food mill.
2. Season the eggplant with salt and
pepper and drizzle with extra virgin
olive oil. Grill on a barbecue or broiler
until golden brown on both sides and
mCO IAVITA tender. Remove from broiler and cut

into 1-inch cubes. Sprinkle well with
To find Colavita retailers near you,

the parmigiano reggiano grated cheese
click on our product locator and put back into the broiler to toast the
at www .colavita.com. cheese. Remove and set aside.
3. Saute the sliced hot peppers in extra
virgin olive oil until golden brown.
Add into the sauce.
4. Cook the pasta until al dente. Toss
the pasta in the sauce with half of the
toasted eggplant, parmigiano cheese
and fresh basil.
5. Plate the pasta and top with the rest
of the toasted eggplant.
For a free copy of

Michael De Georgio 's
Classic Italian Favorites
recipe booklet go to
www. colavita.com
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let the COlAVITA family be your hosts for your next visit to Itoly. (orne ride
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For details: www.colavita.com
CI)
c
. -
What to pour at Thanksgiving
== BY A M Y A L B E RT & TI M G A I S E R
CJ)
T
he range o f flavors o n the Thanksgiving plate i s a wide one:
Riesling
c
salty, sweet, mild, rich, tangy, and even spicy. There's some i s our favorite
--
thing for everyone, which is a blessing for entertaining.
Thanksgiving wine, and you've seen us
Variety can be tricky, though, when deciding what to pour
rave about it before. The grape has the
� alongside a dish of turkey, stuffing, gravy, mashed potatoes,

widest possible range of flavors and can
o
sweet potatoes, sauteed greens, and cranberry relish.
be dry, slightly sweet, or dessert-level
Good news : Many delicio u s , versatile, and reasonably
-�
sweet (the ones below are all dry). Peach
priced wines are up to the job. Crisp, fruity white wines with a
c
and green-apple flavors with mouth
touch of sweetness and light, fruity reds work best. Steer clear
of intensely flavored, tannic red wines that will overwhelm the watering acidity make Riesling an easy,
(])
individual dishes and clash with the sweet elements in the food. delicious match for the salty, rich, tangy,
Oaky, high-alcohol Chardonnays can also cause problems. spicy, and sweet elements on the plate.
Here's a rundown of wines to consider serving.
2002 2002
PinotNoir
Monchhof Estate
2001 2001 Annie's Lane
Riesling
Echelon La Crema Australia
Germany
offers the bright cherry-like
California California
$1 2 $1 5
fruit (or fuller, earthier fruit)
$1 0 $1 3
and the soft tannins that you
want in a red wine to com
1 999 2002
plement mild turkey meat. It 2001 Franz KOnstler
2002
Domaine de
also provides some contrast Coldstream Hills Hochheimer Martinborough
Courcel Pommard
Reserve Reichestal Kabinett
with the richer elements of 1 er Cru, "Les Rugiens" New Zealand
Australia Germany
the meal, like the stuffing. France $20
$22 $45 $1 8
Chenin Blanc has seductive, Gewlirztraminer has exotic

peach-melon flavors and crisp acidity that pair well fruit flavors and a richly perfumed nose that bring out
with sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce, and the the best in the sweet elements of Thanksgiving
turkey itself. Look for crisp, fruity wines from the (especially bread stuffing and sweet potatoes ) as well
Pacific Northwest and California, and earthier as any spicy elements .
..
examples from the Loire.
••
.. •• Gundlach
•• 2002 Meyer-Fonne
Bundschu
Marc Bn3dif Handley "Reserve
Dry Creek Hogue Cellars Rhinefarm Particuliere"
Vouvray California
Vineyard
California Washington Alsace
France $1 4 California
$8 $9 $1 7
$1 2 $1 7
•
Amy Albert is Fine Cookings senior editor; TIm Gaiser, a master
sommelier, is a contributing editor.
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O C T O B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2 0 03 27
Marcona Almonds from Spain
are sweet and rich, with an extraordinary crunch more like a
macadamia nut than an almond. Our favorite kind of these almonds,
which are wider and flatter than their American counterparts, are
fried in extra-virgin olive oil and then sprinkled liberally with salt. Serve
them as a pre-dinner nosh with some olives and a glass of sherry.
Available at Whole Foods Markets or at Tie nda.com (888-4 72 - 1 022),
where a 4-ounce package is $4.25.
Membrillo ( Spanish Quince Paste )

has a concentrated fruit flavor and honey-like sweetness that makes it
the perfect foil for cheese. Do as the Spanish do: Cut it into slivers and
serve it with a well-aged cheese like Manchego or Cheddar. Quince
paste also spreads nicely over a piece of crusty bread as a tea-time
snack. A 1 4 -ounce box is $9.95 at Tienda.com (888-472- 1 022).
Taku Smokeries' Smoked Salmon

is pleasantly lean and has a clean taste that the Alaska-based company
attributes to its catch of wild (nonendangered) Pacific salmon. We've
been impressed with both the thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon and
the larger steaks of hot-smoked salmon (shown at left) . Drape the
cold-smoked slices over canapes or serve the hot-smoked salmon with
lemon wedges, capers, and a touch of sour cream spiked with horse
radish. A vailable at www. takusmokeries.com (800-582-5 1 22).
For impromptu entertaining or easy holiday hors d'oeuvres,

put out a couple of these nibbles for friends and family
C O M P I LED BY TO N Y R O SEN FELD
Point Reyes "Original Blue" Cheese

may be just the cheese to tempt those who aren 't lovers of blues.
The G iacomini family produces the cheese on their coastal Northern
California farm from raw milk and then ages it for at least six months.
The result is a cheese full of salty, tangy, and earthy notes, with a
creaminess not often found in cow's milk blues. A vailable at cheese
shops and at www.pointreyescheese.com (800-59 1 -6878).
Sokol Blosser's Evolution Wine

blends nine grape varietals into one wine, making it a great conversation
piece. But this Oregon white wine's balanced acidity and fruitiness far
outshines its curiosity factor. This clean, refreshing wine is a perfect
aperitif to accompany strong flavors like spiced n uts or
smoked salmon. $15 at wine shops, or contact Sokol
Blosser at www.evolutionwine.com (800-582-6668).
Photo: Scott PhiUips

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O C T O B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2003 29
CI)
u G ive it a rest BY S H I R LEY O. CO R R I H E R
c
Why some dishes taste better with time
CI)
. - Some foods ought to be eaten the second they're done cooking-pancakes, for
u instance. But for many other dishes, the situation is reversed : Their best moment
comes only after they've had some time to rest. Roasted meats, rice dishes, bean
Even raw beef
en salads, meat braises, and some soups fall into this category. These dishes all
improves
1J
benefit from a standing period, but each for different reasons, as you'll see below.
with age
o
Roasted m eat, whether beef, M eat braises and stews Nearly all beef sold today
goes through some aging,
chicken, or pork, needs time taste bette r the second day,
o
a process that gives meat a
for its juices to redistribute. and a number of p rocesses more buttery texture and
intense flavor. There are two
4-
If you cut into perfectly cooked are at work here.
roast beef right out of the oven, ways to age beef. The most
First, the meat reabsorbs liquid common is wet aging-the
the outer portion would look
from the sauce, making it meat is stored in vacuum
gray and dry, while the center
moister; this reabsorption sealed plastic. Dry-aged beef
would be red and very rare. But
continues through successive is exposed to air, and while
let that same piece of meat stand
reheatings. Then there's this method results in better
for 10 minutes or so and it will
evaporation, which reduces the flavor and texture, it also
be juicy and pink when you cut
liquid and concentrates the
into it, nicely cooked all the way causes moisture and weight
sauce. After cooking and
through. The standing time lets loss, which drives up the cost.
reheating, liquid continues to
the center continue cooking With both methods, the beef
evaporate for some time, even
from residual heat and lets juices must be refrigerated; an opti
when the dish is refrigerated .
that were concentrated in the mal aging period is eleven
With each reheating, more
center migrate to the dry outer days. Dry-aged prime beef is
evaporation occurs, and hence,
portion. The meat proteins expensive and hard to find.
more concentration of flavors.
actually reabsorb their juices. You can, however, dry-age
Finally, browning contributes
to flavor in this type of dish. beef at home in your refrigera
Risottos, paella, bean salads, Gazpacho needs time As the stew or braising sauce tor (it works best with a thick
heats up, it sticks to the sides or large cut, as you'll have to
and bread salads all improve for flavors to "meld
of the pot, gets hot, and browns. trim off some of the meat after
in flavor after standing and marry:' When you stir, you dissolve aging). Unwrap the beef, set it
these sweet, browned com on a rack over a dish l ined with
Gazpacho contains lots
for several minutes. pounds back into the sauce or paper towels, and refrigerate
of chopped or blended
Starchy foods like rice, bread, stew. Other reactions are also it uncovered for two to seven
vegetables. The flavor
potatoes, and beans are such occurring: Big compounds are days; the longer it ages, the
compounds on all these
wonderful vehicles for sauces breaking down into smaller, stronger its flavor. As a
thousands of cut surfaces
and dressings because they more flavorful compounds; precaution against bacterial
need an hour or so to
absorb liquids so well. But small compounds are combin growth, be sure the tempera
release into the mixture
absorption doesn't happen ing and creating new flavors. ture in your refrigerator is 34°
and merge. This mixing
instantaneously. A rest of Heat speeds these reactions, to 38°F. The meat will turn dark
of molecules enhances
10 or 20 minutes can make a so every time the dish is and the surface will dry out.
the overall flavor of
huge difference, and you can reheated , this flavorful activity When you're ready to cook, cut
gazpacho and other
often even see that the rice, increases-even continuing
blended soups as the away the dried surface.
bread, or beans have swollen when the stew is refrigerated
individual flavors "marry."
slightly with standing. since it takes a long time for
the center to get cool.
Shirley O. Corriher, a food scientist
.•
and a contributing editor to Fine
Cooking, wrote CookWise
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O C T O B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2 0 0 3 33
Ajiaco (Co l o m b i a n 1 cup sour cream or creme
C h i cken Soup) fraiche
Y2 cup nonpareil or other small
Serves eight.
capers, rinsed and drained (if
If
The soup and the aji can be using large capers, chop them
made a day ahead. the soup is coarsely)
too thick after it's reheated, thin it Y2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
with a l ittle water. Aji is tradition leaves
ally made with chiles that haven't
M a ke the s o u p : Put the chicken
been seeded, but you'll probably
in a large (at least 8-quart) stock
find it plenty spicy without the
pot and add 8 cups water. Bring
seeds. Leftover aji is delicious on
to a boil over high heat and then
roasted or grilled meats.
reduce the heat to a vigorous
FOR THE SOUP: simmer. Simmer for 1 0 m inutes,
3 pounds cut-up chicken, skin frequently skimming off the foam
removed, rinsed well that floats to the surface.
1 large white onion, peeled and Add all the vegetables, the
cut into quarters
garlic, the cilantro, and the bouil
1 leek (white and l ight green
lon cu bes to the pot, along with
parts only), cut into l -inch
the salt and pepper. Stir a few
rings, a nd rinsed thoroughly
1 green bell pepper, seeded and
times to d istribute the vege
cut into l -inch pieces tables and submerge as many of
2 ears fresh corn, cut crosswise the solids as possible. When the
into qua rters broth returns to a gentle boil,
2 ribs celery, cut into l -inch partially cover the pot and sim
pieces mer, stirring once or twice, for
2 large carrots, peeled and cut 1 112 hours. Taste for salt and add
into l -inch pieces more if needed.
% pound Yukon Gold potatoes, Using tongs or a slotted
peeled and cut into l -inch spoon, pick out the chicken
Ch icken Soup
cubes pieces and put them on a large
3f4 pound Idaho potatoes, peeled
plate. Stir the soup with a large
and cut into l -inch cubes
% pound small red potatoes,
spoon, breaking up some of the
vvith a Tvvist peeled and cut into l -inch

cubes
potatoes to thicken the soup
slightly. Keep hot if serving soon
6 cloves garlic, peeled or let cool and refrigerate.
BY TA N IA S I G A L % cup fresh cila ntro leaves When the chicken is cool
2 chicken bouillon cubes enough to handle, pull the meat
A
s a child growing u p in Colombia, 1 tablespoon kosher salt; more off the bones and shred it by
Sundays were the best day of the to taste hand. Discard the bones and
% teaspoon ground black tendons, and put the shredded
week. That's whe n we went to my
pepper chicken in a serving bowl.
Aunt Bela's, where I'd be greeted by the
FOR THE AJ I : M a ke the a j i : In a food proces
most enticing aromas. The source would 4 sca l l i ons (white a n d light
sor, pulse all the aji ingredients
inevitably be a huge pot of chicken soup green parts only)
u ntil they're finely m inced. Trans
1 medium tomato, peeled and
simmering on the stove . It's called ajiaco, fer to a serving bowl.
seeded
and I've yet to taste another chicken soup 1 small white onion, peeled
Serve the ajiaco: Put the avo
2 fresh Scotch bonnet or
that can match its earthy aromas, hearty cados, sour cream or creme
haba nero chiles or 2 fresh hot
textures, and bright flavors. fraiche, capers, and cilantro
red chiles, stems a nd seeds
removed (wear gloves, and leaves in small bowls and set
Why would Colombians know anything
don't touch your eyes) them on the table along with the
about a cold-weather dish like chicken bowls of shredded chicken and
3 tablespoons fresh cilantro
soup? Isn't the country on the equator? Yes, leaves the aji. Reheat the soup if neces
3 tablespoons white vinegar sary and ladle it into large soup
but I lived in Bogota, which is high in the
1f4 teaspoon kosher salt bowls, putting a quarter ear of
Andes and is cold and damp all year. corn in each bowl. Let your
FOR THE GARN I S H ES:
Ajiaco (pronounced ah-hee-AH-koh) is the guests add the garnishes and
2 ripe avocados, peeled and cut
perfect antidote to the weather. In fact,
the aji to their own servings.
into %-i nch cubes
34 F I N E C OO K I N G Photos: Scott Phillips

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c
.-U) it's a specialty of the region and one of Finally, a bowl of ajiaco isn't complete
Colombia's most famous dishes. without its garnishes: capers, diced avo
.- Three elements set this chicken soup cado, sour cream, and chopped cilantro.
::s apart from all others. First, there's the You'll be surprised at how these varied in
u
broth, which is thick and full-bodied, al gredients come together to give the soup
most like a stew, thanks to the addition an entirely different dimension.
-0
L.
of three types of potatoes (see below ) . S ince I live in South Florida now, I
Second, there's t h e aji (AH-hee ) , a don't often get the urge to make this
a
spicy condiment that gives the soup some unusual soup, but the moment we're hit
fiery punch (the aji goes into the individ with a cold spell, my family knows to look
S ual servings, so each person gets to con

trol the intensity) . Aji is simply a minced
for the ajiaco pot on the stove. With the
chicken, vegetables , and potatoes, it's a
Tania Sigal is the chef
owner of Tania s Table,
.•
mixture of chiles, onions, tomatoes, vine complete meal in a bowl. We eat it as
a catering company
gar, and cilantro, and it takes less than a a main course for dinner, with perhaps a
in Miami
minute to make in a food processor. small salad beforehand.
A few ingredients
turn a basic soup
into a special meal
Chi l es
Colombian cuisine isn't as spicy as
some others in the region (think
Mexican), but we do use our share of
chiles, most often in our aji sauces.
Scotch bonnet and habanero chiles
tend to be our first choice, but be
warned: They can be intense. They're
Potatoes
members of the Chinense species,
Traditional ajiaco calls for three kinds
which has hundred of varieties,
of potatoes. For color and flavor,
some of which are nonpungent. The
Cilantro Colombian cooks use a tiny yellow
heat level of an average habanero is
Cilantro figures prominently in ajiaco. potato called papas criollas. You
hot but varies immensely; typically,
It infuses the broth, and a sprinkling of might find them sold either frozen or
it ranges between 80,000 and
chopped leaves garnishes each bowl, jarred in the U.S., but I avoid them i n
1 50,000 Scoville units. (The Scoville
giving the soup a fresh, tangy accent. that form. Instead, I use Yukon Golds,
scale measures the amount of heat,
Cilantro also counters the chiles' heat, whose buttery yellow flesh makes
or capsaicin, in chiles; it runs from
playing a vital role in my aji recipe. them an excellent substitute. Next, we
o to 577,000 units-the hottest
Sometimes called Chinese pars use Idahos or russets. These high
Chinense chile ever measured.)
ley or fresh coriander, cilantro needs starch potatoes break down quickly
To give you some perspective, that
tender handling. When you get it during cooking and become part of
means a habanero is 20 to 50 times
home, remove any metal ties and the broth, giving it a thicker, richer
hotter than a jalapeno, whose heat
pick out any decaying or yellowing consistency. And we use red pota
level is also quite variable (between
sprigs, which would cause the rest toes for the opposite reason. They're
2,500 and 1 0,000 Scoville units).
of the bunch to rot. Wrap in a barely low in starch, and they don't fall apart
In any case, if you're not hot on heat,
damp paper towel, put in a plastic when boiled. This ensures that the
use fewer of these chiles and add
bag, and refrigerate. Wash and dry soup has some nice size pieces of
more cilantro to the aji.
just before using. A fresh, healthy potato, giving the ajiaco a more inter
bunch should last for almost a week. esting texture.
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O C T O B E R / N o V E M B E R 2003 37
A work island with
two levels means
Room for
that home work and
ricket Winton is a devoted home cook who spends
dinner prep can
a lot of time in the kitchen of her home in Fairfield, happen at the same
cooking &
Connecticut. But as the mother of four boys, she time, in the same
also manages a busy household, so she needs a kitchen place, with space
for everyone.
living
that serves as the center of the action, too.
While it's common for the kitchen to be the place
where everyone wants to gather, this kitchen is unusual
because there's actually room for everyone. "We didn't
want a family room with a television where the kids
BY A M Y A L B ERT would hang out," says Cricket. "Instead, we wanted the

kitchen to be the hub and hearth of the household. "
Amy Albert i s Fine Cookings senior editor. •
38 FINE COOKING
Clever storage
for bread , spices,
and dishes
Right: Instead of a breadbox, a bread
drawer allows for more space on the

countertop. Below: A shallow cabinet
that's just for spice jars is carved out of
one end of the work island.
Closely spaced shelving for platters
gives each oversize dish a home

of its own, and solves the problem of
unwieldy stacks of dishes.
Efficiency takes many
forms: A faucet near

the s tove lets Cricket
fill stockpots on the
spot, while a black

board, opposite the
kitchen door, serves
as a message cen ter.

Of her desk, set right
in the midst of the
kitchen, Cricket says

simply, "I call it
Mission Control."
Photos: AmyAlbert O C TO B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2 0 0 3 39
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O C TO B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2 0 0 3 41
. -
.. WI N N I N G TIP
...
(J) Use an artist's palette
L fo r you r ing red ient p rep
(]) I use a paint palette to hold seasonings
1J and garnishes when I prep ingredients for
Cd
a dish. The palette has little wells that can
keep my chopped shallots separate from
(])
L
my m inced garlic until I'm ready to use
them. The palette keeps all my ingredients
at hand so I don't forget to add anything
while cooking, and it eliminates the need
for numerous small bowls.
-Christine Zieleniewski,
Ramsey, New Jersey
R emove squa sh seed s I just give the oatmeal a quick the ribs flesh side down and in
quickly a n d c l ea n l y stir and add milk and maple sert a fingertip into the semi
I scrape o u t t h e seeds and syrup for a hot, hearty breakfast. clear "skin" covering the back
stringy ribs from halved butter -Donald Matesz, of the ribs. Keep pushing your
nut s q uash and othe r winter Toledo, Ohio fingertip in until you can grasp
squash with my ice-cream the skin and pull it off. It should
scoop. I j ust swee p the scoop Keeping p eel ed apples peel off in large pieces. Repeat
two or three times through the white a n d ta st y until you've removed it all. This
squash and press on the trigger W h e n peeling apples for pies makes the ribs more tender and
to d ump the seeds out of the and tarts, I prevent browning by easier to cut after cooking.
scoop and into the trash . A soaking the apples in apple juice -Dolores G. Hart,
quick rinse is all it takes to clean until I 'm ready to use them. The Etowah, North Carolina
the scoop. acidity of the apple juice keeps
-Susan Wilson, the apples from oxidizing and Fry bacon in the oven
Hanson, Massachusetts turning brown, and it doesn't When I cook a large breakfast
change the flavor the way lemon for family and friends that in
Make b reakfa st i n you r or orange JUICe can. volves making everything from
slo w cooker -Allan Byard, via email pancakes a nd waffles to e gg
I love having hot oatmeal for d i s h e s , sausages, and baco n ,
breakfast in the fall. Before bed R emov e th e c l ea r " skin" stovetop space i s a t a premium,
time, I put a cup of steel-cut oats from spa rerib s so I figured out a way to "fry" my
( like the kind imported from I enjoyed your article o n oven bacon in the oven. I drape the
I re land ) into my slow cooker cooked spareribs in Fine Cooking bacon slices over each wire of
with four cups of water and one #56 ( p . 5 6 ) . An old man in the top oven rack and put it in a
Y2 cup of raisins
teaspoon of cinnamon or apple Louisiana who cooked meltingly heated 350°F oven, with a bak
pie spice, plus tender ribs all his life taught me ing pan on the bottom rack to
or other dried fruit. Then I cover to always remove the cellophane catch the drippings. This isn't as
the cooker and put it on low to like skin from the back of the messy as it seems. The bacon
cook overnight. In the morning, ribs before cooking the m . Put cooks up crisp and golden brown
42 FINE COOKING Illustrations: Mona Mark

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·-... An ea si er wa y to l ift ping down the side of the pan .
'"' a h ea vy pan But here's a tip for pouring that
(f)
L
I find that it's much easier to lift prevents the drip. First I tilt the
pan to pour all the contents out,
a single-handled heavy pan
(}) like a cast-iron skillet-if I hold and then I continue turning it in
-0
the pan with my thumb pointing the same direction, essentially
toward the end of the handle flipping it until it's right side up
Cd and my palm facing the p a n . again . ( Keep your grip a little
(}) This way, my wrist isn't stressed loose, as it's the handle rather
by the weight of the pan, and I than your hand that's turning . )
L
don't need to have a strong arm B y making t h e p a n do a 360-
i n a few minutes and stays warm to cook with a cast-iron pan. degree flip, the drip gets caught
even with the oven turned off -Doris Hsu, via email inside the pan's lip.
A P R I Z E FO R until I'm ready to serve it. The -Perry Weddle,
TH E B EST TI P oven rack is easily cleaned by Lightl y flour meat or Sacramento, California
Atte ntion clever wiping it down with a wet seafood b efore stir-frying
cooks : We want yo u r sponge and some dish liquid . I enjoyed Robert Danhi's article U se l eek greens for
best tips-we ' l l pay -James Kidd, on stir-frying in Fine Cooking bouqu et s garnis
for the ones we p u b Newtown, Connecticut #58 ( p . 53 ) . One trick I use I fi n d i t wasteful t o discard the
l i s h - an d w e ' l l g ive a when stir-frying is to lightly coat top half of leeks when a recipe
prize (see below) to A c l ea n er sto vetop a n d the meat or seafood with flour calls for the white and pale green
the c l everest tip i n b etter fri ed foods ( I shake off any excess) before part only. I put the tougher
each issue. Write to I always use a spatter screen to frying it. I find that the flour green leaves to good use by in
Tips, Fine Cooking, minimize the mess when pan helps the meat or seafood brown cluding them in my bouquets
PO 5506,
Box frying, but a fine spray of greasy more easily and keeps it moist, garnis. I wash the leek greens
Newtown, CT 06470- steam always seems to get and the flour thickens the sauce thoroughly, drain them well, and
5506 o r send e m a i l to through the screen to coat my nicely when the liquid is added bundle two leaves, a few sprigs
cabinets and stove top. Now at the end. of fresh thyme and parsley from
when I fry, I place a paper towel -Jennifer Davis, via email my herb garden, along with one
on top of the spatter screen to bay leaf. I tie them together with
absorb the grease and moisture White vinegar ext end s kitchen twine and store them in
coming off the frying food. This t h e shelf life o f ch eese a plastic bag in the freezer until
helps the food crisp up better To keep my cheese from getting neede d . The leek contributes
and results in less cleanup. moldy too quickly in the refriger great aromatic flavor and helps
-Josie Grable, ator, I take it out of its packaging keep the other herbs together,
New York, New York and wrap it in a piece of cheese making it easier to fish out the
cloth (or good-quality white whole bouquet garni after use.
Pastry cooling rack paper towel) that's been dipped -Sylvaine, via Cooks Talk
doubles as a tri vet in white vinegar and squeezed at www.finecooking.com
• I love using my slow cooker to

make braises and stews, but I
out. Then I put the cheese into a
zip-top plastic bag, squeeze the Thicken sou p s with
noticed that the counter under air out of the bag, and seal it. l efto ver mash ed potatoes
the cooker gets quite hot during This prevents the cheese from Whenever I make mashed pota
The prize: An Oxo salad the long hours it's cooking. Since getting moldy for many weeks, toes, I make a little extra and
spinner "gift basket" filled I don't have a trivet large enough and the vinegar doesn't affect the freeze it. Then, when I ' m mak
with a Kyocera ceramic fruit to hold the cooker, I used my flavor at all. ing a hearty, homemade vege
and vegetable slicer, a Zyliss biggest, sturdiest pastry cooling -Ana Weerts, table soup and I need to thicken
ergonomic swivel peeler, rack as a trivet. I sometimes also Brookfield, Wisconsin it, I j ust pull out a packet of
a Messermeister heavy-duty use a heavy- d uty, aluminum frozen mashed potatoes, break
garlic/ginger press, a Micro baking sheet with one-inch-high U se a painters' trick to off a couple of chunks and add
plane zester/grater with sides set upside down as a trivet prevent dripping p a n s them to the soup. This adds fla
handle, a 1 4-inch WMF ball for the cooker. When I p o u r gravy or tomato vor as well as thickener.
•
whisk, and a Kuhn Rikon -Elena Reddic, sauce out of a small saucepan, a -Colleen Lanigan-Ambrose,
safety lid lifter. Value: $ 1 25. Washington Crossing, Pennsylvania little sauce always ends up drip- Seal Beach, California
44 FINE COOKING
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O C TO B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2 0 0 3 45
Dinner with friends
Short Ribs or a
Relaxed
Center an autumn dinner party
around short ri bs braised
a day or two ahead, nestled
on lemony mashed potatoes
with a sparkler or cris
wine to start the fun
BY LES L I E R EVS I N
hile I love cooking for

friends at any time of
year, a nippy fall or winter
night makes it especially
easy. The season cries out
for a meaty, warming braise full of
deep, developed flavor, with aromas
that beckon when friends walk in the
door. What makes this kind of meal
The finale, a pear grati n
even better is that not only can it be
cooked ahead, it actually should be . splashed with cream
A day or two of resting in the
refrigerator heightens and melds
flavors-and makes things all the
more relaxed for the cook.
Braised beef short ribs are the star
of my homey, cool-weather menu.
Fall-apart tender, they sit on a bed of
"The dishes in this m en u can sit a
mashed potatoes and are topped with
short while in case your guests are
a pretty saute of julienned leeks. The running late/, says Leslie Revsin.
ribs are first browned in a large stew

pot and then simmered in a mix of
Photos: Scott Phillips O C TO B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2 0 0 3 47

Asian ingredients that include soy,
ginger, and star anise. Once in the
oven, the ribs braise to succulent
tenderness and take on big flavor. Crunchy Roasted Pepitas
Cooking and cooling the braise at Yields 1 cup.
least a day before serving helps flavors 1 cup large raw pepitas
1 teaspoon olive oil
marry, and it makes degreasing easy. 1 % teaspoons ground coriander
My fall menu includes a few other 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
112 teaspoon dried dill
dishes that can be done at least a
Y4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
little bit ahead, as you'll see from the Pinch cayenne (optional)
timeline at far right. You can make Position a rack in the center of the
the lemon-garlic mashed potatoes oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Toss
the seeds with the olive oil on a baking
up to an hour ahead and keep them
sheet large enough to hold them in a
warm over a water bath. The leek single layer. Spread in an even layer
topping for the braise can be sauteed and roast the seeds in the oven, stirring Pepitas, dark-green
occasionally, until golden, 1 3 to 1 5 min
ahead , too, and then briefly warmed . h ulled pumpkin seeds,
utes. Remove the pan from the oven
and immediately toss the seeds with can be found at natural
The pear gratin can b e assembled a
the coriander, salt, dill, pepper, and foods stores and spe
few hours ahead, and either slipped
cayenne, if using. Let cool for 1 0 min cialty stores. The seeds
into a slow oven just as you sit down utes. Transfer to a small serving dish or "pop" when toasted.
to dinner ( be sure to check on it two and serve. (If you're working ahead, Serve them slightly
refresh the pepitas for a minute or two
once or twice ) , or baked ahead and warm for the best flavor.
in the oven before serving).
heated for 5 to 1 0 minutes at 325°F
just before serving.
M a shed Potatoes with Lem o n & Garlic

Serves six. the remai ning 1 0 tablespoons butter,
These mashed potatoes have a rustic and the lemon zest. When the butter
feel, yet the lemon and garlic make has melted, season the mixture well
We asked a Fine Cooking with 1 112 to 1 % teaspoons salt. Keep
them special enough for company.
reader to give this menu a the m ixture warm while the potatoes
real-world test-spin before 3% pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, continue cooking.
publication. Here's what peeled and cut into 1 - to 1 %-inch When the potatoes are done, drain
chunks them and return them to the pot in
he reported:
1 1 tablespoons unsalted butter wh ich they were cooked, set over low
4 teaspoons m inced garliC heat. Stir the potatoes to dry them until
"This menu was tons of fun. I
1 % cups milk; more as needed they just start to stick to the pot, about
especially liked the timetable. 1 % teaspoons finely grated lemon zest 30 seconds. G radually add the warm
I was able to greet and visit with Kosher salt
milk mixture to the potatoes as you
my guests, when normally, I'm in Freshly ground black or white pepper
mash with a potato masher; if they're
the kitchen frantically trying to dry, add up to 1/4 cup more milk. Season
Put the potatoes in a large pot of salted
get everything done. There was water. Bring to a low boil and cook until the potatoes to taste with salt and
nothing that required a delicate the potatoes are tender when pierced pepper and serve. (If you're working
touch or constant attention, and with a skewer, 1 5 to 20 minutes. ahead, set the potatoes over a warm
Meanwh ile, in a medium saucepan, water bath, drizzle them with a few
we couldn't believe how tender
melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over tablespoons milk, and cover loosely
the ribs were-some of the best with foi l. Just before serving, stir well.)
medium-low heat. Add the garlic and
I've eaten�nd everyone loved
cook, stirring frequently, until it has
the leeks. Would I make this softened, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the m i l k,
menu again? You bet! "
-Tom Bembinster
Frisco, Texas
48 FINE COOKING
A s i a n -Style Beef Short Ribs with J u l ie n ned Leeks
Serves six. simmer and cover. Transfer the pot to
Although I usually season short ribs the oven and braise the ribs, lifting and
with salt as well as pepper before turning them about every half hour, until
browning them, you won't need salt the meat is very tender and starts to fall
here. The soy sauce seasons the ribs off the bone when pulled with a fork,
well and produces an intense sauce 2 V2 to 3 hours.
(
that's balanced by the mashed Transfer the ribs to a serving platter
potatoes with which they're served. or if you're working ahead, transfer
for more information, see From Our Test )

Star anise is a whole star-shaped spice; them to a baking dish; refrigerate,
covered, when cool . Pick out and dis
Kitchen, p. 86. card the ginger and star anise from the
pot and pour the remaining sauce into
1 Va cups drained canned whole
A saute of leeks can
a large, clear measuring cup. When
be cooked a bit
tomatoes, coarsely chopped the fat rises to the surface, after about
(
ahead and then
% cup soy sauce 5 minutes, spoon it off and discard.
% cup fino sherry, dry white wine, Or, if you're working ahead, cool the warmed gen tly....
or dry vermouth sauce in the pot, refrigerate it, and skim
2 tablespoons light brown sugar the solid fat off the top. When it's time ...just before you use
)
4 whole star anise to reheat the ribs, return them to the pot them as the delicious
6 to 6% pounds beef short ribs on the
and heat gently in the oven. garnish for the ribs.
bone (each 3 to 4 inches long)
Meanwh i le, melt the butter in a large
Freshly ground black pepper
1 % tablespoons vegetable oil; more
skil let over medium-high heat. Add the
as needed leeks and cook, stirring frequently, until
6 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled they begin to brown, 3 to 5 m i n utes.
1 -inch piece fresh ginger (about Reduce the heat to med ium low and
1 ounce), peeled and cut into 8 slices continue cooking, stirring frequently,
6 large scallions (white a nd green until tender, about 3 to 5 minutes.
parts), cut into 2-inch lengths Season with salt and pepper to taste.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter Reheat the sauce, season gener
3 medium leeks (white and light green ously with pepper and more salt, if you
parts), cut into 2-inch-long julienne l i ke, and pour it over the ribs. Scatter
strips (2 to 2% cups), rinsed, and the leeks over the top and serve.
dried well
Kosher salt
Position a rack i n the center of the oven

and heat the oven to 3 25°F. Put the
tomatoes, % cup water, the soy sauce,
sherry, and brown sugar i n a bowl and
stir. Add the star anise.
Pat the short ribs dry with paper
towels and season them with pepper.
In an ovenproof pot that's large enough
to hold all the ribs i n no more than two
layers, heat the oil over medium-high
heat. Put as many ribs i n the pot as will
fit without crowding and brown them on
al l sides, about 2 minutes per side.
Transfer to a platter. Brown the rest of
the ribs, adding more oil if needed, and
transfer to the platter.
Pour off the fat from the pan, reduce
the heat to low, and add the garl ic, gin
ger, and scallions, stirring and pressing
them against the pot, for 1 to 2 minutes
to bring out their flavor. Return the ribs
to the pot and pour the tomato and soy
sauce mixture over them. Bring to a
Pea r & Haze l n ut Grati n
Serves six. remaining % cup sugar and pulse four
or five times to combine. Add the butter
Look for gi nger preserves in the jelly cubes and pulse until the mixture barely
section of a well-stocked supermarket, comes together, about 30 seconds; it
or order them by mail (see Where to should be a chunky, crumbly mixture.
Buy It, p. 90). You can su bstitute apri (By hand: Coarsely chop the hazelnuts
cot preserves for the ginger if you like. and combine them with the bread
For sources for gratin dishes, see p. 90. crumbs and sugar. Cut in the butter
cubes with a pastry cutter or two knives
% cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated until chunky and crumbly but combined.)
sugar Put the lemon juice i n a large bowl.
% cup ginger preserves, at room Peel the pears, cut them i n half length
temperature wise, and spoon out the core (a melon
1 % teaspoons finely grated orange bailer works well). Cut the pears length
zest wise into %-inch slices, put them in the
Pinch salt bowl, and toss gently with the lemon
V2 cup whole unblanched hazelnuts
ju ice. Add the ginger mixture and toss
V2 cup fresh white breadcrumbs
again to coat.
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter,
Pou r the pears and j uices into the
cut into cubes
prepared g ratin dishes and spread
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
A pear gratin is a warm finale 2 pounds firm but ripe Bose pears evenly. Scatter the hazelnut mixture
to a homey meal. If there are (about 4) evenly on top.
any leftovers, let them come % cup light or heavy cream Bake the gratins until the tops are
browned, the juices are bubbling, and
fully to room temperature Position a rack in the lower third of the the pears are sti l l intact but tender
first, and then heat them in oven and heat the oven to 400°F. Butter when pierced with a fork, 3 0 to 35 min
the oven for a few minutes to the bottom and sides of six 6-inch utes for individual gratins (40 to 5 0 min
warm them through. (a-ounce) gratin dishes (or one shallow utes for one large gratin). Let cool for
l 'h-quart gratin dish or baking pan). 1 0 to 1 5 minutes before serving. Pass
In a small bowl, combine 1 table the cream separately in a pitcher for
spoon of the sugar with the ginger pre guests to drizzle over each serving.
serves, orange zest, and salt. Stir well.
Put the hazelnuts in a food processor Leslie Revsin 's latest book is Come for
•
and process until they're coarsely Dinner: Memorable Meals to Share
chopped. Add the breadcrumbs and the with Friends.
w i n e c h o i c e s
Start with a light white and move on to a full-bodied red

For sipping with the pepitas, try a crisp, the 2001 Penfolds Thomas Hyland Shiraz
unoaked white with a touch of fruit. Aibariiio, ($1 4) or the 2001 d'Arenberg Footbolt
from the Rias Baixas region in northwest Shiraz ($1 8) from Australia. A Zinfandel with
Spain, is a good choice, and the 2001 Vionta lip-smacking fruit would also work well. Two
($1 5) is a good value. A light bubbly would delicious choices would be the 2000 Frog's
Leap Napa Valley ($21 ) or the 2001 Bonny
also work; the nonvintage Ruggeri Prosecco
Doon Vineyard "Beastly Old Vines" Cardinal
Frizzante ($1 2) from Italy is one of the best
Zinfandel ($1 8).
I've tasted recently.
The short ribs themselves call for a Tim Gaiser, a master sommelier, is a contrib
deeply flavored red with medium tannins. Try uting editor to Fine Cooking.
50 F I N E COOKING
Get tender beef,
I
f I had to choose my favorite cooking Choose naturally tender cuts and cook
technique-the one I absolutely couldn't them on the stovetop. For these quick
chicken, pork, or do without-it would be braising. After braises, I don't use the large, tough cuts that
all, this is the technique that gave us take hours of simmering to become tender.
fish-and a flavorful comfort food like pot roast and osso Instead, I look for smaller, more tender cuts
sauce-all i n one buco. Traditional braises are simple enough

-just a slow simmer of meat and a flavorful
that still have good savor, such as chicken
thighs, boneless pork chops, sirloin tips,
pan with this qu ick liquid in a covered pot-but they can take a and thick fish fillets.
long time. Lately I've been inventing quick Another way that I shortcut the brais
braising method versions to satisfy my craving for the savor ing process is to avoid the oven and cook
of a braised dish without the long cooking. over the direct heat of a burner. I choose a
Photos: Scot Phil ips O C T O B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2 0 0 3 51

O ra n g e -Braised C hicken
with Crisp Prosci utto
Serves four.
1 navel orange, scrubbed and dried

8 boneless skinless chicken thighs (about
1 % pounds), rinsed and patted dry
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
All-purpose flour for dredging
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 thin slices domestic prosciutto (about
1 ou nce), cut into strips % inch wide
% cup thinly sliced shallots (3 to 4 large)
1 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed
% teaspoon crushed red chile flakes
3 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
3/4 cup homemade or low-salt canned
chicken broth
1 bay leaf
Cut the orange in half. Squeeze one half

(to get about V4 cup juice) and discard
the rind. Sl ice the other half into 1/4-inch
half moons.
Unroll the chicken thighs and remove
any large pieces of fat. Roll the thighs
back up and season with salt and pepper.
Dredge each thigh in flour, shaking to get
rid of the excess.
Heat the oil in a large ski llet over
medium-high heat. When the oil is
shimmering, add the prosciutto and cook,
stirri ng occasionally, until browned and
crisp, 1 to 2 min utes. Transfer with a
slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper
towels. Working in two batches, brown
the thighs, starting seam side down to
help them hold their shape. After the
bottom is nicely browned (about 3 min
utes), fl ip and brown the other side; it's
all right if the thighs start to unfurl. Trans
fer the chicken to a plate.
Add the shallots to the pan, reduce the
heat to med ium, and stir in the coriander
and chile flakes. Stir in the orange slices
and cook until the shallots begin to soften
pan that holds the ingredients snugly (see
and color, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour in the vine
flavor. I then often a d d a little chicken
gar, scraping up any browned bits, and
the note on pan size on p . 54 )-this helps broth or some other mild liquid to finish
boil until the pan is practically dry. Add
everything stay moist as the braise cooks cooking the meat. the broth and reserved orange juice and
and concentrates all the flavors. As you try your hand at these quick return to a boil. Return the thighs and any
In most other ways, these braises braises, I encourage you to come up with accumu lated ju ices to the pan. Tuck the
are s i m i l a r to their traditional cou nter your own flavor combinations based on bay leaf into the pan, cover tightly with a
parts. Mter browning the meat, I saute fra your tastes and your pantry. Begin with lid or foi l, and reduce the heat to a gentle
grant aromatics, such as shallots or onions, an aromatic ingredient like garlic, onion, or simmer. Cook, turning the thighs once
to give the dishes a good flavor base. I de- after 1 0 minutes, until they're cooked
shallot, and then stick with one or two
through and tender, 25 to 30 m inutes
___jf,g!£la�z""e the aromatics with an acidic liquid, other main flavors. Don't make it too com
total. Taste the sauce for salt and pepper;
�1!ch as win e , vinegar, or citrus , which plicated-think of flavors that pair nicely discard the bay leaf. Serve immed iately,
helps balance the braise's rich, browned and build on that. garnished with the crisped prosciutto.
S e rv i n g suggestion: Serve with creamy

polenta or rice.
52 FINE COOKING
Stovetop braising in fou r steps
Se.ar the meat for a dark, Deg/aze the aromatics with Simmer the meat and its Reduce the braising
browned exterior, which a lively acidic liquid. Scrape juices with the braising liquid liquid (after removing
will give the braise a rich, the pan with a wooden spoon and the aromatics. Simmer the meat) to a rich,
intense flavor. to loosen any browned bits. gently, covered, until tender. saucy consistency.
Pork Chops with reduced to about 1/4 cup, about Transfer the chops to a plate
Sweet O n io n s, Capers 3 minutes. Stir in the bouillon and cover loosely. Turn the heat
& Vermouth cube and capers. Return the to high, bring the liquid to a boil,
Serves four. chops to the pan, settling them stir, and add the cream. Boil,
into the onions. Reduce the heat stirring occasionally, until reduced
Italian home cooks have long to a gentle simmer and cover by about half to a saucy consis
used bouillon cubes to add flavor tightly with a lid or foi l . After tency, about 1 to 2 minutes. Taste
to quick d ishes. Crush the cube 1 minute, check to see that the for salt and pepper. Stir any
with the side of a chef's knife so liquid is at a slow simmer; adjust accumu lated pork juices into the
it dissolves readily. the heat as needed. Continue to sauce. Serve the chops topped
4 boneless pork chops, 1 to cook for another 7 min utes, turn with the sauce and sprinkled with
1 % inches thick, rinsed the chops, and cook until just the parsley.
a nd dried barely pink inside and firm to the
touch ( 1 45° to 1 55°F) , another Serving s u gg e sti o n : Serve with
Kosher salt a nd freshly ground
black pepper 4 to 5 min utes. buttered egg noodles.
% cup all-purpose flour for
dredging
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large sweet onion, thinly sliced
% cup dry vermouth
1 ch icken boui l lon cube, crushed
2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
a nd drained
2 tablespoons cream
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
flat-leaf parsley
Season the chops with salt and

pepper. Dredge them lightly in the
flour, shaking off any excess. Heat
the oil and 1 tablespoon of the
butter i n a large skillet over
medium·high heat. Sear the
chops, turning once, until just
lightly browned, about 2 minutes
per side; transfer to a plate. Add
the remaining butter to the pan,
along with the onion ; cook, stir
ring, until the onion is barely ten
der and golden, 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the vermouth and % cup
water. Simmer until the liquid is
% pound fresh mushrooms,
prefera bly a mix of half shiitakes
and half cremini
2 tablespoons olive oil or
vegeta ble oil
4 scall ions, thinly Sliced, white and
light green parts separated from
dark green pa rts (save both)
1 cup dark ale or porter beer
(I like Beck's Dark)
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
Mix the mustard, brown sugar,

thyme, ginger, paprika, and 1 tea
spoon salt in a small bowl until
well combined. Coat both sides
of the steaks with the spice mix.
Remove and discard the stems
from the shiitakes, if using, and trim
the stem ends from the crem ini.
Wipe all the mushrooms clean and
slice them 1/4 inch thick.
Heat the oil in a large skillet
over medium-high heat. When the
oil is shimmering, add half the
steaks and sear them until nicely
browned, 2 to 3 minutes per side
(the steaks will brown quickly
because of the sugar in the spice
mix). Transfer to a plate and repeat
with the remaining steaks.
Reduce the heat to medium, add
1 tablespoon of the butter to the
pan, and let it melt. Add the mush
%
rooms, the scallion whites, and
teaspoon salt and cook, stirring
occasionally with a wooden spoon,
until the mushrooms soften and
brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Pour in the
Beer-Bra i sed Sirloin Tips beer and Worcestershire. Scrape
with M u s h room Sauce the bottom of the pan with the
Serves four. spoon, raise the heat to medium
Pi c king th e high, bring to a boil, and cook,
Sirloin tips are a great choice for a
p e rfect p an Ideally, you want to choose a pan quick braise, as they're full of flavor
uncovered, until the liquid is re
& b rai s ing :

for se aring for these recipes that will hold all the and will have a pleasantly chewy tex
duced by half, about 4 minutes.
Return the steaks and any accumu
pieces of meat, chicken, or fish in ture after 20 minutes of cooking (fur
lated juices to the pan, cover tightly
a snug but not overlapping layer. ther cooking would toughen them).
with a lid or foi l, and reduce the heat
A deep 1 0- or 1 2-inch skillet (2% to Some grocers mistakenly label tri-tip
to a low simmer. Braise, turning the
steak as sirloin tips. You ' ll recognize
4 inches deep) is usually perfect. If steaks after 8 minutes, until tender
real sirloin tips (also called loin flap
it comes with a lid, great; otherwise, and just cooked through (they
meat) by the marbling. If the cut
use foil. But if the pan is just right for should be easy to slice with a paring
looks lean, ask your butcher if it's
knife), about 1 6 minutes total.
braiSing, it might be too tight for truly loin flap meat.
Transfer the steaks to a cutting
searing all the meat at once-the board and slice them thinly. Cut the
1 teaspoon dry mustard
pieces need some elbow room while 1 teaspoon light brown sugar remaining 1 tablespoon butter into
searing or they'll steam rather than % teaspoon dried thyme leaves, four pieces and swirl them into the
brown. For these recipes, I find that crushed sauce. Stir in the scallion greens
the beef and chicken need to be
% teaspoon ground ginger and taste for seasoning. Serve the
% teaspoon sweet paprika steak sl ices topped with the sauce.
seared in batches, but I can usually Kosher salt
get away with searing the halibut 1 % pounds sirloin tip steaks, Serving suggestion: Serve with
and pork all at once. % to 1 inch thick buttery mashed potatoes.
54 F I N E COOKING
H a l ibut B ra i sed i n a
Tomato-Fe n n e l Broth
Serves four.
Wh i l e these stoveto p b raises s i m m er, The season for Atlantic and Pacific hal
you ' l l h ave j ust e n o u g h ti m e to m ake

ibut runs from around April to December.
If you can 't find halibut at your local fish
a side d ish of rice o r pasta.

monger, try another th ick, mild whitefish
like cod, haddock, or even monkfish.
1 % pounds skin-on halibut fillet, cut into

four even portions, rinsed, and dried
Kosher salt a nd freshly ground black
pepper
3 tablespoons ol ive oil
1 bulb fennel, trimmed, quartered, cored,
and thinly sliced lengthwise
2 cloves garlic, minced
% cup dry white wine (like Sauvignon
Blanc)
1 4 %-ounce can diced tomatoes, with
their juices
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or
flat-leaf parsley
Season the fillets with salt and pepper.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a
large skil let over medium-high heat. When
it shimmers, add the fillets, skin side up,
and sear until just golden brown, about
4 minutes. Flip and sear the skin side
for 4 minutes. Transfer the fillets to a plate;
if the skin sticks to the pan, discard it.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil
and the sliced fen nel to the pan, season
with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring
occasionally, until softened somewhat
and browned in spots, about 4 minutes.
Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute.
Pour in the wine, immediately cover the
pan tightly with a lid or foil, reduce the
heat to medium, and simmer briskly until
the fennel is tender, about 8 min utes.
(Check halfway throug h ; if the fennel is
dry, add 2 to 3 tablespoons water). Stir in
the tomatoes and their juices, V2 cup
water, and 2 tablespoons of the herbs.
Cover and simmer for another 5 minutes.
Taste the broth for salt and pepper.
Return the halibut to the pan, settling
the pieces skin side down into the broth,
and pouring over any accumulated ju ices.
Cover tightly and simmer until the halibut
is cooked through, about 4 minutes.
Carefu lly lift out the halibut; taste the
sauce and season if necessary. Serve the
fish in shallow bowls with the sauce
spooned over and around it. Garnish with
the remaining 1 tablespoon herbs.
Serving s u g g e stion : Serve over

linguine or orzo tossed with herbs and
olive oil.
Molly Stevens, a contributing editor to Fine Cooking, is the author of a forthcoming book on braising .•
O C T O B ER/NoVE M B E R 2 0 0 3 55
I weeknight idea
BY A R LE N E J AC O B S Swiss Chard
OU
Y
might not realize how easy it is to turn those colorful bunches
of Swiss chard leaves you see in the produce aisle into delicious
weeknight side dishes. Swiss chard is a lot like spinach, only
slightly sturdier, so I use an easy three-step method to soften its tex
ture slightly. First I remove the stem and cut the leaves into manage
able pieces. I saute the leaves quickly in a little oil until they wilt, and
then I cover them to steam briefly. I add a flavorful aromatic like gar
lic, along with a bit of salt and red chile flakes, and I have a side dish
that I can serve with everything from roasted chicken to steamed fish.
This basic method is plenty satisfying, but Swiss chard is so versatile
that I often add different flavors to it to match my mood and the other
food I'm serving for dinner. These flavor additions consist of a few
pantry ingredients that you can quickly prepare before sauteing the
chard. Just pick your favorite flavors, get them ready to go, and follow
the basic cooking method. Be sure to read both the recipe and the
flavor addition before starting so you'll know when to make the addi
tions and, in some cases, substitutions to the basic recipe.
Follow this basic method • • •

Sauteed Swiss Chard
Serves four. them i n half crosswise t o get
4- to 6- inch pieces.
2 pounds Swiss chard (from
about 2 bunches)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin
2. Heat the oil in a large skillet
over med ium-high heat for
olive oil
1 minute. Working in batches,
2 teaspoons finely chopped
garlic (from about 4 cloves)
pile the Swiss chard into the pan,
Kosher salt turning and tossing gently until
Pinch crushed red chi le fla kes the leaves begin to wilt and turn
glossy. Add a new batch of
Fill a sink with cold water and leaves as the previous batch
wash the Swiss chard to remove wilts and makes room for more.
3. When all the chard is wilted,

any grit. Transfer to paper
towels and let dry for a couple
of minutes (it's fine if a little sprinkle i n the garlic and a little
water clings to the leaves). salt and toss well . Lower the
1.
heat to medium low, cover, and
Remove the thick part of cook for 4 minutes. Remove the
each stem by cutting a V-shaped lid, raise the heat to high, add
notch partway into the leaf. the chile flakes, and continue to
Split each leaf in half lengthwise cook for 2 minutes so that much
by slicing down the center rib. of the liquid evaporates; the
Stack the halved leaves (in leaves should be tender but not
batches if necessary) and cut overly soft. Serve immediately.
56 FINE COOKING
· . . and g ive it a twist with a flavor addition
SLIVE RED ALM O N DS S U N-DR I ED TOMATOES ASIAN-STYLE WITH G I NG E R basic sauteed Swiss chard, add
& B ROW N E D B UTTER & FETA & PEAN UTS the mixture (called gremolata)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter 6 oil-packed sun-dried tomato 1 tablespoon minced fresh at the end, toss, and serve
% cup slivered a lmonds halves, drained and cut into ginger immed iately.
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice thin strips Y2 red bell pepper, cut into
2 tablespoons finely chopped ANCHOVI ES, PAR M ESAN
& B R EADCR U M BS
V3 cup feta cheese, crumbled very thin strips
shallots Y2 teaspoon lightly chopped 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
fresh thyme leaves % cup unsalted roasted shelled 6 anchovy fil lets, drained
In a small saute pan or sauce peanuts, coarsely chopped and m inced
pan, melt the butter over medium Combine the sun-dried toma % cup freshly grated
heat. Add the almonds, reduce toes, feta, and thyme in a bowl. Make the basic sauteed Swiss Parmigiano Reggiano
the heat to medium low, and Make the basic sauteed Swiss chard, but add the ginger, red Y2 cup fresh breadcrumbs,
cook, stirring often , until the nuts chard, add the feta mixture at the bell pepper, and sugar at the toasted
are golden and the mi lk solids in end, toss, and serve immediately. same time as the garlic. At the
the butter turn a nutty brown. end, sprinkle with the peanuts Make the basic sauteed Swiss
Remove from the heat and stir in and serve immediately. chard. Add the anchovies and
the lemon j uice. Keep warm. Parmigiano at the end and toss.
G R EMOLATA (LEMON-GAR LIC) Sprinkle with the toasted bread
Make the basic sauteed
Swiss chard, replacing the garlic 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon crumbs and serve immed iately.
in the recipe with the shallots. zest (from about 1 lemon)
Sprinkle the almonds and butter 1 small clove garlic, very finely
chopped
over the finished chard and
2 tablespoons m inced fresh
serve immediately.
flat-leaf parsley Arlene Jacobs is a freelance food
'Writer and a chef-instructor at
Com bine the lemon zest, garlic,
.•
the French Culinary Institute in
and parsley in a bowl. Make the
New York City
Photos: Scot Phil ips O C T O B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2003 57

Vegetable Gratins
Th e sec ret to maki n g
a m e m o ra b l e s i d e d ish
aromatics
to concentrate their
is layeri n g th e flavors
flavor. Leeks, garlic,
onions, shallots
even apples taste
richer and sweeter
after browning.
add flavorful liquids

like apple cider or
sherry to the saute
pan, along with
broth and cream,
to deglaze the
aromatics and
infuse the liquids.
include potatoes
in the mix of
vegetables to add
structure to the Equally at home with

gratin; use your the Thanksgiving
hands to toss the turkey or sauteed
vegetables with the pork chops, this sweet
aromatics, liquids, butternut-apple gratin
and cheese. can take a spicy turn

if you slip in a bit of
sliced turnip.
of coarse bread
crumbs (use a
rustic loaf), melted
butter, and a little
more cheese.
58 FINE COOKING Photos: Scott Phillips

on the Side Butternut Sq u a s h , Apple, Leek &
Potato G rati n with a Ched d a r Crust
Serves eight as a side dish. and lightly browned (the
pan will be dry), 1 0 to
FOR TH E TOPPI N G :
1 5 minutes. Add % cup
1 Y2 cups coarse fresh
breadcrumbs (from an of the cider and simmer
a iry, crusty loaf like for 2 minutes to reduce it
ciabatta) slightly. Add 112 cup of the
2 tablespoons unsalted cream, the chopped
butter, melted thyme, a pinch of salt, a
Kosher salt few grinds of pepper, and
3 ounces (% cup) grated stir wel l ; set aside.
sharp Cheddar Cook the apples: In
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
a large nonstick skillet,
leaves
melt the remaining 2 table
FOR TH E G RATI N : spoons butter over
% cup unsalted butter, plus medium heat. Turn the heat
Y2 teaspoon for the dish to medium high, add the
2 cups sl iced leeks (white apple slices, and cook,
and light green parts of
gently flipping and sti rring,
3 medium leeks),
until most of the slices are
thoroughly washed
Kosher salt
browned and limp but not
% cup plus 3 tablespoons falling apart, about 1 0 min
apple cider utes. Add the remaining
Y2 cup plus 3 tablespoons 3 tablespoons cream and
heavy cream 3 tablespoons cider. Stir
2 teaspoons chopped and let the liquids reduce
fresh thyme leaves slightly for a few seconds;
Freshly ground black remove from the heat.
pepper
2 crisp, firm apples, such Assem ble and bake the
as Golden Delicious gratin: Peel the squash
or Braeburn (about neck, cut it into quarters
14 ou nces total),
lengthwise, and cut them
peeled, cored, and
across into thin slices.
thinly sl iced
1 2 ounces butternut Peel the potatoes, cut
squash from the neck them in half, and cut them
2 med ium Yukon Gold across into thin slices. In
potatoes ( 1 2 ounces a large bowl, combine the
BY S U S I E M I D D LETO N total) squash slices, the potato
slices, the leek mixture, the
M a ke the topping: Com apple m ixture (scrape the
H
aving a versatile side dish like a vegetable gratin in your bine the crumbs, melted pans well), and a scant
repertoire is handy this time of year. When you dress up fall butter, and a pinch of salt 2 teaspoons salt. Using a
vegetables with lots of flavorful ingredients and bake them in a bowl. Mix in the
rubber spatula, m ix gently
with a golden crumb topping, suddenly you've got something Cheddar and thyme.
but thoroughly. Scrape the
special. A gratin is the perfect thing to serve with a nice mixture into the prepared
Prepare the grati n: Heat
rib roast, and it's a natural for Thanks givin g-you can pretty g ratin dish, smoothing and
the oven to 350°F. Rub
much rest assured that everyone from Uncle Harry to Cousin Car a shallow 2-quart gratin pressing until evenly dis
lotta will love it. And with a big salad, a gratin makes a good Sunday d ish with 112 teaspoon of tributed. Cover with the
night supper, too. the butter. breadcrumb topping.
To make a gratin that really is that good, you need to remember a Cook the leeks : Melt Bake until the crust is
few tips. Baking vegetables ( unlike roasting them) isn't necessarily the 2 tablespoons butter deep golden brown, the
the greatest way to draw out their flavor, so if you're going to pack in a small (preferably non j u ices around the edges
stick) saucepan over have subsided, and the
them tightly into a casserole, you've got to add flavor. First, saute
medium heat. Add the crust is dark brown around
aromatic ingredients like garlic and onions to bring out their sweet
leeks and a big pinch of the edges, about 1 hour.
ness. Next, deglaze the saute pan to infuse your liquids with the fla Let rest for 1 5 to 20 min
salt. Cook, sti rring fre
vor of the sauteed aromatics. Then spike the liquid with even more quently, until well softened utes before serving.
O C T O B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2 0 0 3 59
flavor by mixing in fresh herbs or bold-flavored ingre
dients such as mustard or horseradish.
The liquids you choose can also boost the flavor of your
gratin. I like a combination of chicken broth and a little
heavy cream. Cream is a great flavor carrier, so even if you
decide to cut back on the quantity (and use more broth to
compensate), don't be tempted to leave it out altogether.
For a little more interest, I sometimes spike the broth and
cream with apple cider, dry sherry, or another dry wine.
The other secret to a successful fall gratin is using a
little bit of potato. I find that gratins made with all
squash or all sweet potato (or even a combination of root
vegetable s ) lack structure without the potato, which
holds together well when cooked and adds a bit of starch
to the cooking liquid. Finally, don't forget the buttery
crumb topping for the crunchy contrast.
Sweet Potato-Ru sset Potato G rati n

with H orseradish & a Dijon Cru st
Serves eight as a side dish. a shallow 2-quart gratin
dish with V2 teaspoon of the
FOR T H E TOPPI N G :
1 % cups coarse fresh
butter. Melt the 2 table
breadcrumbs (from an spoons butter in a small
a iry, crusty loaf l i ke saucepan over medium
cia batta) heat. Add the shallots and
2 tablespoons unsalted a big pinch of salt; cook,
butter, melted stirring frequently, until
Kosher salt softened, limp, and some
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard what golden. Whisk to
2 tablespoons grated gether the cream, broth,
Parmigiano Reggiano
and horseradish; add to the
2 teaspoons chopped
shallots. Season with salt
fresh flat-leaf parsley
and pepper, stir to combine,
A kick of horseradish
FOR TH E G RATI N : and take off the heat.
2 tablespoons unsalted and mustard makes
butter, plus % teaspoon Assemble and bake the this gratin a perfect
for the d ish grati n: Peel the potato and foil to baked ham or
1 cu p thi n ly sliced shal lots sweet potato, cut each i n a rib roast.
(from 6 to 7 large) half lengthwise, a n d slice
Kosher salt each across into thin half
% cup heavy cream moons. I n a large bowl,
0/3 cup homemade or
combine the potato and
low-salt canned
chicken broth
sweet potato slices, 2 tea M a ke-a h e a d t i p s
2 tablespoons prepared spoons salt, the Parmigi
horseradish ano, and the shallot cream. If you don't want to make the entire gratin all at once, you
Freshly ground black With a rubber spatula, mix can do several things ahead. The aromatic ingredients
pepper gently but thoroughly and
can be chopped and cooked, and the liquids can be com
1 russet potato ( 1 2 ounces) scrape into the prepared
1 sweet potato (1 2 ounces) bined and held in the refrigerator for several hours. You
gratin dish, smoothing and
Y3 cup grated Parmigiano pressing until evenly dis can also make your breadcrumbs and grate your cheese
Reggiano tributed. Cover with the a day ahead. If you want to assemble the whole dish a few
breadcrumb topping. hours ahead, just be sure that the cooked components
Make the topping: Com
Bake until the crust is are completely cooled to room temperature before mixing
bine the breadcrumbs,
deep golden brown, the with the vegetables. Refrigerate the assembled gratin
melted butter, and a pinch
juices around the edges
of salt i n a bowl. Mix i n the without the topping and remove it 45 minutes before
have subsided, and the
mustard and then the baking to get it closer to room temperature. If you've held
potatoes are tender when
Parmigiano and parsley. the gratin for several hours, sprinkle an extra tablespoon
pierced with a fork, about
Prepare the gratin: Heat 1 hour. Let rest for 1 5 to or two of chicken broth across the top. Just before pop
the oven to 350°F. Rub 20 minutes before serving. ping it in the oven, make the crumb topping and put it on.
60 FINE COOKING
Red Potato, Ca bbage, Bacon R e h eati n g n otes
&Gruyere G rati n
Serves eight as a side dish. Over medium-low heat, Transfer a n y leftovers t o a
melt the 3 tablespoons smaller ovenproof dish that's
FOR TH E TOPPI N G :
butter in the pan in which just big enough to hold them,
4 strips thick-cut bacon,
diced
the bacon was cooked. taking care to keep the crust
1 % cups fresh coarse Scrape the browned bits
on top. Drizzle with a little
breadcrumbs (from from the bottom of the pan
chicken broth, cider, or milk
an a i ry, crusty loaf like as the butter melts. Add
ciabatta) the cabbage and season and bake, uncovered, at
2 tablespoons unsalted with about V4 teaspoon salt 350°F u ntil heated through,
butter, melted and some pepper. Turn the a bout 30 minutes.
Kosher salt heat to medium and cook,
FOR TH E G RATI N :
stirring frequently, until the
3 tablespoons unsalted cabbage is wilted and
butter, plus % teaspoon beginning to brown, 4 to
for the dish 5 minutes. Add the garlic,
10 ou nces Savoy cabbage, stir, and cook until fragrant,
chopped (about 5 cups about 1 minute. Add the
Serve this hearty gratin
of roughly %-inch chicken broth and the
pieces) with roasted chicken,
cream, stir and scrape
Kosher salt a nd freshly the pan, and remove from sausages, or pork.
ground black pepper the heat.
1 heaping tablespoon
m inced garlic Assemble and bake
3/4 cup homemade or the gratin: Cut the pota
low-salt chicken broth toes in half lengthwise
% cup heavy cream and sl ice the halves thinly.
1 % pounds red potatoes
Put the potatoes in a
(4 medium), u n peeled
large bowl with a scant
3 ounces grated Gruyere
2 teaspoons kosher sa�
Make the topping: In a and a few grinds of
large saucepan, cook the pepper. Add the cabbage
diced bacon over medium mixture, scraping the pan
heat until very crisp. With a well . Add the G ruyere and,
slotted spoon, transfer the using a rubber spatula,
bacon to a plate l ined with mix gently and thoroughly.
paper towels. Pou r the fat Scrape the mixture into
out of the skillet and re the prepared g rati n dish,
serve the skillet (don ' t smoothing and pressing
clean it) . Mix the bread until evenly distributed.
crumbs with the melted Cover with the bread
butter until well combined ; crumb topping and bake
add a pinch of salt and the unti l the top is well
bacon bits and set aside. browned and the potatoes
pull away from the edges
Prepare the grati n: and are just tender enough
Heat t he oven to 350°F. to poke through with a
1f2
Rub a shallow 2-quart fork, about 1 hour. Let cool
g rati n d ish with tea for 1 5 to 20 minutes be
spoon of the butter. fore serving.
Susie Middleton is the editor afFine Cooking .•

tips for getting
the apples
just right
1 The butter-sugar mixture will
look sandy before the sugar melts
comple tely. Just keep s tirring
gen tly to help it along.
2 The cara m e l will turn very

glossy once the sugar has melted.
For the best flavor, cook it until it's
a deep mahogany color-a light
caramel will make the tarte too
sweet. The butter will pool on the
top at this point; that's fine.
3A wooden spoon helps hold

the apples upright. Try to pack
the apples as tigh tly as possible,
but be careful not to let the cara
mel splash-it's extremely hot.
4 The apples must be flipped

once the bottom half of each one
has become tender and soaked
with caram el. Use a fork to coax
them over.
5 The apples will give off lots

of juice, which blends with the
caramel into a delicious mix. Pour
off about a cup into another small
pan to use for the extra apples.
6 Sim m e r a few extra apple

ha lves in the apple-caramel so
that they become tender and cara
melized, too.
7 The apples will shrink as they

g e t close to being done. With a
fork or a spoon, scoot them so
they're s tanding up s traight and
are tigh tly packed togeth er, and
then insert as many of the extra
apple halves as you need to make
a neat, tight arrangement.

a rustic crust,
a daring flip
1 The crust is supposed to
look rustic, so there's no need

for fussy crimping. Wh en the
apples have cooled to room tem
pera ture, drape the ro und of
dough over them and just gen tly
tuck the edges around the apples.
2 G e tting the tarte flipped
right side up doesn't take skill,

just a bit of nerve. Let the baked
tarte cool a few minutes before
you do this so the juices aren 't
piping hot. Invert a serving plate

on top of the skillet, hold the two
together securely, and then flip the
plate and the skillet over in one
quick move.
Pate B ri see
Yields enough for one tarte tatin.
6% ounces (1 % cups) all-
purpose flour
3 ta blespoons granu lated sugar
% teaspoon kosher salt
2% ounces (5 tablespoons )
unsalted butter, cut into
small cubes
1 large egg yolk
% teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 to 3 tablespoons cold water
Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a

food processor and whirl to
blend. Add the butter and pu lse
until the m ixture looks li ke fine
meal . I n a cup or small bowl,
whisk together the egg yolk, the
vanil la, and 2 tablespoons of
the water. Add this to the flour
and butter and pulse for a few
seconds, j ust long enough to let
the dough pull together; add
a l ittle more water if needed.
Dump the dough onto a lightly
flou red su rface and work it with
the heel of your hand, pushing it
away from you and then gather
ing it u p with a dough scraper,
until the dough is very pl iable.
Press the dough i nto a ball,
cover with plastic wrap, and chill
until fi rm, 1 5 to 3 0 mi nutes.
64 FINE COOKING
I learned to make tarte Tatin
when I went to cooking school

Classic Tarte TaU n pour off V2 to 1 cup of caramel and j uice
in France, and I've been e njoy Serves eight to ten. into a small saucepan (pour off more if
necessary; you should have about an
A good time to make your pastry is while
inch of liquid left in the skillet) . Return
ing making it ever since, teach the apples are cooking.
the skillet to the heat and continue
5 to 6 pounds tart apples (I l i ke cooking. Add the reserved apples to the
ing it in cooking classes and Braeburns, Jonathans, Honeycrisps, caramel in the smaller pan and cook over
Jonagolds, or Fujis) medium-high heat u ntil they're caramel
making it for dinner guests . 7 tablespoons unsa lted butter ized, about 1 0 minutes, turning them
% cup granulated sugar frequently as necessary.
Tarte Tatin is wonderful to serve to Va teaspoon kosher salt With a rubber spatula or a wooden
guests because either they know it and
Pate Brisee (recipe at far left), chil led spoon, push the apples in the skillet so
Creme fraiche or vanilla ice cream they're tig htly packed and upright agai n ;
adore it, or they've never heard of it for servi ng there w i l l b e gaps. Holding them i n posi
before and they fall in love with it right tion, transfer an apple half from the small
at your dinner table. Peel, halve, and core the apples, being pan and slide it, wider end down, into a
sure to get the stem and flower ends gap; repeat with as many apple halves
It isn't hard to make, but it isn't the
clean. I n a heavy ovenproof 1 0-inch as will fit nicely; reserve the ju ice i n the
easiest dessert to make , either. Cara skil let or a tarte Tatin pan (see Where to pan. Continue cooking the apples in the
melizing the apples takes some time Buy It, p. 90), melt the butter, add the skillet u ntil they're tender and thoroughly
half an hour or so for the batch-and sugar and cook over medium heat until caramelized, inserting another apple half
each time you make it, the apples be the sugar begins to melt around the if necessary. The total cooking time
edges. Stir gently with a wooden spoon could take 35 minutes or more.
have j ust a little bit differently, giving
to help the sugar melt completely and Take the skillet off the heat and let
off more or less juice depending on the then let the mixture cook over medium cool to room temperature. If there's
season and the variety. low heat u ntil it reaches a deep more than about 112 inch of liquid remain
Frankly, I 've never been able to fig mahogany-colored caramel; if using a ing in the pan , carefully pour off the
ure out which season and which variety dark pan, be sure to lift some caramel excess into the small saucepan.
out with a spoon to check the color. Heat the oven to 375°F. Roll the
of apple works best-I just pick an apple
The butter will pool on the top-that ' s chil led pate brisee dough into a round
and go for it, because the method that fine. As soon as the caramel is the right about 1 inch larger than the pan ; the
I've developed over the years handles color, take the pan off the heat. dough should be about 1/8 inch thick. Roll
the two main challenges presented Set aside fou r of the apple halves the round of dough onto the rolling pin
by fickle apple s : too much shrinkage, and arrange the remaining ones in the and transfer it to the skillet, gently drap
pan in concentric circles, standing them ing the dough over the apples. Tuck and
which would make your tarte look
upright on their narrowest end and fold the edge of the dough under to make
slumpy, and too much caramel, which packing them in as tightly as possi ble a rim. Put the skil let in the middle of the
would make the final tarte soggy and (they' ll shrink as they cook) . Try to make oven. (Put a baking sheet on the rack
too sweet. the rows look neat. below to catch any overflowing j uices.)
Here's what I do to handle the chal Return the pan to medium heat, in Bake until the crust is a rich brown and
creasing to medium high as the apple looks crisp, about 25 minutes.
lenges: During the cooking proces s ,
ju ices begin to flow-the liquid should Take the tarte out of the oven and let
I pour off some o f the apple juice and bubble gently. Rotate the pan occasion it cool for about 1 5 minutes. If more
caramel mixture from the skillet into a ally in case there are any hot spots. Use juice accumulates, carefully pour off
separate pan, in which I simmer some your sense of smell: If you start to smell most of it into the saucepan and then
extra apple halves so that they get cara burnt sugar, immediately turn down the invert a large plate on top of the pan,
heat. When the bottom halves of the flip the pan and plate over in one quick
melized also. I then insert those extra
apples are caramelized and slightly move, and lift off the pan. Simmer the
apples into the gaps that form as the tender, flip each one over with a fork and reserved caramel and j u ices until thick
apples in the skillet shrink and collapse , continue cooking. and syrupy and then spoon them over
making the whole formation really About this time, there should be a lot the finished tarte or serve alongside.
pretty, with concentric circles of plump, of juice in the pan and the apples will Serve the tarte warm or at room temper
likely have shrunk and be slumping a bit. ature with creme fraiche or vanilla ice
shiny apples. I keep cooking the left
Carefully take the pan from the heat and, cream. Leftovers are best eaten within
over caramel so that it gets thick and holding the apples back with a spatula, a day or so; don ' t refrigerate.
•
syrupy, and then I use it to brush onto
the finished tarte and to pass as a sauce. Martha Holmberg is Fine Cookings publisher.
Using Up the Turkey,
Look forward to the day after Than ksg iving, when you can
A B R I G HT SALAD
T
hanksgiving turkeys don't
come small-there's
always some left over.
And while I like the chal
lenge of concocting delicious
meals with good leftovers, the
lingering carcass of a turkey
had always stumped me . Every
time I would open the fridge ,
it would be there, looming, a
A B RAISE WITH COU SCOUS

constant reminder that I had
to do . . . something.
But last year, rather than
serving a second round of
warmed-up meat and gravy and
a sandwich or two, I decided to
do something different. Turkey
is mild, so I matched it with
Gett i n g the most from the tu rkey
fresh, assertive flavors like mint,
The best way to deal with a big leftover turkey is to divide a n d conquer it. Here's a p l a n :
ginger, lime, and saffron. I made
a light, clean turkey stock that
TRANSFER the stuffing from DIVI DE the turkey meat into KEEP the carcass, wings, and
the inside of the carcass to a portions. Keep some for bones to make stock. Wrapped
I used for a delicate version of
shallow baking dish to reheat a sandwich if you like, and then well, they'll keep for four days
turkey soup, as well as for a
and serve as a side dish later. use the rest in one or more in the refrigerator.
flavorful braise. I used the rest of the recipes on pp. 68-70.
of the meat for tasty turkey BREAK the carcass down You'll need 2 cups diced meat DISCARD all the skin, which
cakes and a beautiful salad. into manageable pieces by for the salad, 1 % cups diced is never as tasty reheated.
The recipes that follow stand removing the legs and wings for the couscous, 1 cup
on their own but provide an first, and any breast meat diced for the soup, and MAKE a stock with the
that remains. % pound (about 1 cup diced) carcass and the remaining
antidote to traditional Thanks
for the cakes. meat. The stock recipe at right
giving dishes, many of which
SEPARATE the meat from yields about 9 cups. You'll
STORE the meat wrapped
tend to be quite rich. They're
the bones, and be sure to need 5 cups stock for the
so good that you may, like me, take the tough tendons out of well in plastic; it will keep in soup and 3 cups stock for the
roast a slightly bigger bird the legs. Remember to remove the refrigerator for four days. couscous. Save any extra for
this year just to guarantee and reserve those two tasty Or freeze well-wrapped weeknight cooking.
enough leftovers to make these nuggets of meat (called the individual portions for up
great dishes. "oysters") that are set in the to three months.
turkey's lower back.
66 F I N E COOKING Photos: Scot Phil ips

Deliciously BY J E N N I F E R M C LA G A N
make these refreshing turkey d ishes
Y FR ITTE RS
A LIG HT SOU P More ideas
for using
up turkey
-) For an exotic twist

to a turkey on rye
sandwich, add some
wasabi to the
mayonnaise.
-:- Use the turkey stock
for poaching vege
tables or chicken,
or instead of cream
in a pasta sauce.
) For an easy stir-fry,
• combine cremini
mushrooms, red
o nions, and snow
peas; toss i n diced
2 tablespoons vegetable oil turkey and vegetables to a large
turkey at the end
Turkey ca rcass from a 1 2 - to stockpot. Pour off and discard
1 6-pound bird (plus bones to keep it from
any fat from the roasting pan,
and wings, if saved) set the pan over medium heat, drying out.
1 l a rge onion (unpeeled), halved and add the brandy. Stir with .) For a quick and
2 ribs celery, scrubbed a nd a wooden spoon, scraping up
coarsely chopped
soothing soup, toss
all the browned bits from the some slivered turkey
1 large carrot, scrubbed and
bottom of the pan. When the
coarsely chopped into simmering stock
mixture is bubbling, pour the
% cup brandy along with boiled
1 -inch chunk fresh ginger,
drippings into the stockpot.
Add the g i nger, bay leaf, thyme, egg noodles, some
peeled a nd sliced
and peppercorns to the pot. chopped parsley, and
1 bay leaf
1 sprig fresh thyme Add about 1 2 cups cold water a squeeze of lemon.
Tu rkey Stock 1 0 peppercorns (or enough to almost cover the +!- For a Vietnamese
turkey pieces). Bring to a
Yields about 9 cups. style wrap, roll
Position a rack in the middle of simmer, skim any foam that rises
Stock from roasted bones will be the oven and heat the oven to shredded turkey,
to the top, and then reduce the
more subtle than that made from 4 25°F. Pour the vegetable oil heat to a very slow simmer. fresh mint, chile
raw bones and meat, but it lends into a large flameproof roasting Simmer for 2 hours (if you used sauce, and fresh lime
good background flavor to lighter pan. Break or chop the turkey more than 1 2 cups water, you juice i n rice paper.
soups and braises. This stock carcass into 3 or 4 pieces and may need to boil it down a bit
freezes wel l (portion it into put it in the roasting pan, along further for flavor). Strain into a
smaller containers for easy thaw with the onion, celery, and carrot. large bowl, cool, and refrigerate
ing), and turkey stock can, of Roast for 30 minutes, stirring overnight. The next day, skim
course, always be used in place two or three times to ensure the fat from the top of the stock
of chicken stock. even browning. Transfer the and then portion it as you l ike.
Tu rkey & Fa l l Vegeta bles i n a Saffron -Scented Broth with Cousco u s
Serves four. 1 5-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed tables are tender, stir In the
and drained chickpeas, 112 teaspoon salt,
Couscous is traditionally served
Kosher salt the turkey, raisins, and cilantro.
with harissa, a chile sauce. In 1 % cups diced cooked turkey Remove the pot from the heat
stead, I use the Indonesian chile ('/2-inch dice)
paste sambal oelek, which is a and let sit covered until the last
% cup golden seedless raisins
good substitute and available in ingredients you added have
% cup lightly packed fresh
Asian markets (or see p. 9 0 for been heated through, about
cilantro leaves
sources), or you can substitute 5 minutes. Adjust the seasonings
a few shakes of hot sauce. This 8 ounces (1 % cups) couscous I·f nee d e d .
recipe is easily doubled. Sambal oelek (Indonesian Meanwhile, make the cous
%
ch ile paste) or hot sauce cous. In a medium saucepan
Generous pinch saffron threads over high heat, bring 1 cups
% teaspoon ground turmeric In a dry, small Dutch oven over water to a boil, along with 1 tea
3-inch long cinnamon stick medium heat, toast the saffron spoon salt and 1 tablespoon of
1 fresh hot red chile (l ike a for 1 minute or until fragrant. the butter. Stir in the couscous,
serrano), cored, seeded, and Stir in the turmeric, cinnamon cover tightly, remove from the
quartered stick, chile, and stock; bring to
3 cups turkey stock (see the
heat, and let sit for 5 minutes.
a boil over high heat. Reduce Cut the remaining 1 tablespoon
recipe on p. 67)
the heat, cover, and simmer for butter into small pieces and
1 medium red onion, root end
1 0 minutes. Add the onion,
left intact, cut into wedges scatter them over the couscous.
carrots, parsnips, and squash;
about 3;'4 inch thick at the Cover and let sit for 3 m in utes.
widest side continue simmering, covered,
Fluff with a fork.
2 medium carrots, peeled a nd for 1 0 m i n utes. Add the zucchini
To serve, mound a large
cut i nto 1 % x%-inch sticks and tomatoes,
spoonful of the
ti P
2 medium parsnips, peeled and cover, and simmer
couscous into a
cut into 1 1(2 x3/4-inch sticks until all the vege
shal low soup bowl
1 cup peeled, diced butternut tables are just ten
Keep the vegetables and ladle the turkey,
squash ( l - i nch d ice) der, about another
chunky and about vegetables, and
2 medium zucch i n i, cut into 5 minutes (you may
1 %x3;'4-i nch sticks broth over it. Serve
need to raise the the same size so
8 ounces plum tomatoes (about with the sambal
heat to return the they'll be done at
2 large), peeled, seeded, and oelek on the side.
broth to a simmer) . the same time.
cut into 1 -inch dice
When the vege-
Tu rkey & B l ue Cheese Salad with Ta rrag o n - M u stard V i n a i g rette
Serves four. FOR THE VI NAIG R ETIE:
2 teaspoons finely chopped
I like this with Belgian endive,
fresh tarragon
but romaine hearts work, too. 2 teaspoons gra i ny Dijon
FOR TH E SALAD: mustard
2 cups %-inch diced cooked 2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
turkey (about 1 2 ounces) 6 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup thinly sliced celery % teaspoon kosher salt; more
hea rts, including leaves to taste
Va cup toasted sliced almonds Freshly ground black pepper
1 sweet apple (I like Mutsu or
Fuji), cored and cut into In a large bowl, toss together
%-inch dice the turkey, celery, almonds, and
2 ounces creamy blue cheese apple. Add the blue cheese.
(try Roquefort or Maytag Whisk together the vinaigrette
Blue), crumbled (about ingredients; taste and adjust
% cup) the season ings. Pour over the
1 large Belgian endive, turkey mixture and toss wel l ;
separated into spears taste a n d adjust t h e season
ings. Serve with the endive
spears on the side.
Turkey Soup with G i n ger, Lemon & M i nt

Yields 5 cups; serves four. Put the sliced leeks in a large
The combination of ginger, bowl of cold water and let them
lemon, and mint gives this soup soak for 1 0 minutes. Lift them
a light, bright flavor. You could out carefully, making sure to
substitute cooked chicken for leave the grit at the bottom of
the turkey. the bowl behind, and set aside
(there ' s no need to dry them).
3 leeks (white part only), sl iced Put the stock and carrots in a
% inch thick (to yield 2 cups) large saucepan. Bring to a boil,
4% cups turkey stock (see the reduce the heat, and cover the
recipe on p. 67)
pot. Simmer for 5 minutes and
2 carrots, peeled and sliced
then add the leeks and ginger.
% inch thick
Continue to cook, covered until
1 -inch chu n k fresh ginger,
the vegetables are j ust tender,
peeled a nd cut into
about another 5 m inutes. Add
matchsticks (to yield a bout
2 tablespoons)
the diced turkey, lemon ju ice,
1 cup diced cooked turkey salt, and pepper. Simmer until
2 tablespoons fresh lemon j uice the turkey is heated through,
% teaspoon kosher salt about 2 minutes. Adjust the
Freshly ground black pepper seasonings if needed, add the
% cup finely shredded fresh shredded m int, and serve
mint leaves immediately.
O C TO B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2 0 0 3 69
Yields about 1 cup.
For a m ilder sauce, remove the
chile's ribs and seeds before
chopping.
3 large plum tomatoes (about

12 ounces tota l), cored
1 hot red or green chile (like
serrano), ribs a nd seeds
included, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh
cilantro leaves
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
V2 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Heat the oven to 400°F. Cut the

tomatoes in half lengthwise and
remove the seeds. Set them cut
side down on a foil-lined baking
sheet and cook u ntil the skins
split and the tomatoes soften,
about 1 0 minutes. Let t he m cool
slightly before removing their
skins. Put the skinned tomatoes
in the food processor with the re
Tu rkey Cakes with S p i cy Roasted Tomato Salsa
main ing ingredients. Process
Serves four. % cup olive oil Put a baking sheet in the until well blended. Adjust the
Spicy Roasted Tomato Salsa oven and heat the oven to 350°F. seasonings and serve alongside
These are great with a salad for
(see the recipe at right) Put the cornmeal in a shal low
l unch. Or you could shape the patties.
bowl. Whisk the egg white with
1 tablespoon cold water. Dip the
smaller patties and serve them Put the diced turkey in a food pro
with d ri n ks. cessor and pulse u ntil very finely patties into the egg white and
chopped. Transfer to a bowl and then coat with the cornmeal.
% pound diced cooked turkey
(%-inch dice)
add the cilantro, chives or scal Heat a large frying pan over
2 tablespoons chopped fresh lion, chile, breadcrumbs, lime medium heat; add the olive oil,
cilantro leaves zest, lime juice, and gravy or and when it's hot, add the
%
1 tablespoon finely chopped cream; mix until well combined. patties. Cook on each side until
chives or finely diced scallion Season with tea- golden, about
ti P
1 fresh red or green chile (like a spoon salt and pep 2 min utes per side
serrano or jalapeno), cored, Jennifer McLagan,
per to taste. M ix in {work in batches
seeded, and finely diced a writer and food
the egg yolk. To test if the oil is if necessary}. Trans
.•
1 cup fresh breadcrumbs With wet hands, stylist, lives in
hot enough, dip fer the patties to
Grated zest of 1 lime Toronto
mold the m ixture the heated baking
2 tablespoons fresh lime ju ice an edge of a patty
into eight patties sheet in the oven.
112 inch thick; they
3 tablespoons leftover turkey into it. The patty
gravy (or heavy cream) Bake until heated
Kosher salt and freshly ground should only just hold should sizzle and through, about
black pepper together. Cover with the oil should 5 minutes. Serve
1 egg, separated plastic and refriger bubble right away. with the roasted
% cup fine cornmeal ate for 30 minutes. tomato salsa.
) 70 FINE COOKING
i ld Rice
U n lock the flavor and textu re with j ust
the right amount of cooking
B Y B ETH D O O LEY & L U C I A WATS O N
W
ild rice isn't actually ric e . It isn't
even wild. But what's certain is that
this native American grass is deli
cious-nutty and woodsy in
fragrance and flavor. We
love it tossed with dried fruits,
citrus, or sauteed wild mush
rooms. And it's a natural with
poultry and game.
Too often, however, wild
rice is served underdone-or
overdone. Undercooked wild rice
is dull in flavor, hard to chew, and
looks unappealing, too. Overcooked wild
rice is mushy and tasteless. Cooking
wild rice properly is critical, and
our cooking method and guide
Dried Cran berries & Haze l n uts lines for testing doneness will
....heat to low, cover, and simmer help to e nsure that you get
until the rice is tender and most it right.
1 cup wild rice, rin
�
of the grains have popped open,
1 table nsalted butter
4 0 to 60 minutes (be sure to
i n ly sliced sca l l i ons Test and taste for don en ess
taste for tenderness). Pou r
(white part only) There's nothing exact about cook
the rice i n t o a colander or sieve
2 tablespoons finely grated ing wild rice. Unlike cooking long-grain
orange zest
to drain well.
I n the same saucepan, melt white rice, there's no set ratio of water
Ju ice of % orange (about
3% tablespoons) the butter over medium heat. to rice , nor is there a relatively
Y2 cup dried cranberries, Add the scallions and saute, stir fixed cooking time . But it is
coarsely chopped ring occasionally, until softened, simple to cook. What we do is
% cup hazelnuts, toasted and about 2 minutes. Remove from
rinse the rice, put it in a pot,
coarsely chopped the heat and add the cooked
cover it with an inch of water,
% teaspoon kosher salt wild rice, along with the orange
Freshly ground black pepper zest and j uice, d ried cranberries, bring it to a boil, and simmer it
and hazelnuts; fluff with a fork gently, covered.
Put the wild rice in a medium to blend. Season with the salt You can tell it's done when
saucepan and cover with water
and with pepper to taste. Serve most of the grains have "popped"
by about an inch. Bring the water
immediately. the grains s plit open to reveal a creamy
to a boil. Immed iately reduce the
interior, and the ends curl in slightly ( see
the middle photo above ) . Be aware that the
grains pop at different rates , so wait until

the majority has done so; this can take any
where from 40 minutes to slightly more than
an hour. Tasting for doneness is also impera
tive. Wild rice is toothy by nature, but it isn't
fully cooked until it's also tender.
Underdone wild rice will be swelled but
will not have cracked open to revea l the
grain's white interior. When overcooked, the
grains will have cracked open wide and
"butterflied" back, concealing most of the
grain's dark exterior.
Don't expect wild rice to absorb all the
water by the time it's done cooking. Excess
water in the pot doesn't affect the flavor or
texture of the rice-when it's done, it's done,
and any extra liquid can be drained off. Wild
rice will also tolerate all types of meddling:
Uncover the pot to peek at it as much as you
like; stir it as it simmers; taste it as it cooks.
The rice won't suffer.
Another advantage is that a little goes a
long way. This grain may seem costly ( ranging
from $2.50 to $ 1 0 per pound ) , but it swells to
up to four times its size as it cooks. One
pound yields ten to twelve cups, or twenty to
twenty-four servings. It's no wonder Scandi
navians who settled in Minnesota nicknamed
wild rice "pocket money. "
Wild Rice Bread D ressi n g with Apple, Apricot & Sage

Yields about 10 cups; serves ten 1 tablespoon chopped fresh with water by about an inch. wild rice, apricots, bread cubes,
to twelve. flat-leaf parsley Bring the water to a boil. Imme apple, sage, parsley, and pecans
1 cup toasted, chopped pecans diately reduce the heat to low, and sti r to combine. Pour i n the
% cup coarsely chopped 3/4 cup fresh orange juice
cover, and simmer until the rice orange juice and broth, season
dried apricots 1 cup homemade or low-salt is tender and most of the grains with the salt and pepper, and
% cup Triple Sec or Grand canned chicken broth; more
have popped open, 40 to stir to blend. The bread cubes
Marnier if needed
60 minutes (be sure to taste for should be evenly moistened
1 cup wild rice, rinsed 1 teaspoon kosher salt
% teaspoon freshly ground
tenderness). Pour the rice into softened on the outside but still
% cup unsalted butter a colander or sieve to drain well.
black pepper crunchy inside. Some of the
1 cup minced yellow onion
Heat the oven to 350°F. broth may pool at the bottom of
1 cup minced celery
Put the dried apricots in a small Butter a 1 3x9-inch baking pan. the bowl but will get absorbed
2 tablespoons finely grated
bowl and pour the Triple Sec or In a medium skillet over medium as the dressing cooks.
low heat, melt the 112 cup butter.
orange zest
4 cups %-i nch cubes of bread G rand Marn ier over them to Evenly distribute the dressing
from a crusty baguette, left cover. Let the apricots soak for Add the onion and celery and in the baking pan and cover the
out overnight to dry or about an hour and then drain cook until softened, about pan with aluminum foil. Bake
toasted in a 350°F oven until off any excess l iqueur (save the 5 minutes. until hot throughout, about
dry a nd light golden l iqueur to deglaze a saute or to With a rubber spatula, scrape 50 minutes, remove the foi l ,
1 cup %-inch diced apple add to a warm vinaigrette). the onion and celery into a large an d continue to bake until t he
2 tablespoons chopped Meanwhile, put the wild rice bowl. Stir in the orange zest to dressing is sl ightly crusty on top,
fresh sage in a medium saucepan and cover distribute evenly. Add the cooked another 1 5 to 20 minutes.
72 F I N E COOKING
Beef & Wild Rice Soup with Wi nter Vegeta bles
Serves eight. 1 cup %-inch diced medium occasionally until the meat is bring to a boil over high heat.
purple turnip well browned on all sides, about Add the beef and any accumu
2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup wild rice, rinsed 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, lated juices, reduce the heat
or bacon fat 2 tablespoons tomato paste to medium low, cover, and
transfer the meat to a plate.
1 pound boneless beef chuck, 1 teaspoon dried thyme Reduce the heat to medium simmer until the wild rice is soft
cut into 3/4-inch cubes 1 bay leaf
low, add the o n ion and garlic to and most of the grains have
Kosher salt a nd freshly ground % cup chopped fresh flat-leaf
black pepper
the pot, and cook, stirri ng and popped open and are tender,
parsley
1 medium yellow onion, cut scraping the bottom of the pot 40 to 60 minutes. (Check occa
into %-inch dice In a Dutch oven or heavy soup occasionally with a wooden sionally to be sure the soup
2 cloves ga rlic, m inced pot, melt the butter or bacon fat spoon, until they ' re softened, isn't simmering too quickly or
1 cup full-bodied red wine over medium-high heat. Season about 5 minutes. Add the wine, too slowly; it should be a moder
8 cups homemade or low-salt the beef generously with salt and bring to a boil, and cook until the ate simmer.) Discard the bay
canned chicken broth pepper. Put the beef i n the pan wine is reduced by about half, leaf. Season the soup with salt
2 cups %-inch diced butternut i n a single layer; don't stir for about 5 m in utes. Add the broth, and pepper to taste and serve
squash (from a small squash,
about 1 V2 m i n utes. Then stir squash, turnip, wild rice, tomato garnished with the parsley.
about 1 Y2 pounds) paste, thyme, and bay leaf and
Truly wi l d
wi ld rice
Most o f the wild rice you'll find in stores
is commercially grown in paddies,
often in California. There is a
movement, however, among
Native Americans living in
Minnesota, Wisconsin, and
Canada to preserve the tradition
of harvesting "authentic" wild rice that
grows naturally in shallow lake I \ \\ /
shores in the region. This rice is
harvested by hand, rather than 11\ /"/
by machine; harvesters knock

the grains into canoes with :. 11I \
poles. The rice is cured and often
dried over a wood fire, which gives it a
" -.
pleasantly smoky flavor. Its grains are lighter
and more mottled in color, and we find the
flavor to be more complex. It also cooks
much faster than commercial wild rice. The
labor-intensive processing means produc-
tion is limited, and so this type of wild rice is
unfamiliar to most people outside of the
upper Midwest, but it is available by mail
(see Where to Buy It, p. 90). This type of
wild rice will work in all the recipes here,
just plan on a shorter cooking time.
.•
Lucia Watson and Beth Dooley are the authors of Savoring
the Seasons of the Northern Heartland
O C T O B E R/ OVE M B E R 2 00 3 73
Great Pumpkin
.� metal pan rather
time and start

checking earlier
for doneness.
Desserts
For warm flavor and velvety texture i n cheesecake, bread pudd ing,
cake (and pie, of cou rse) , look to pum pkin
BY R E G A N D A L E Y
P
umpkin is more than an ingred ient. It's of the very essence of fall-is so connected to that
a color, a shape, a memory of holidays and season, in fact, that most of us don't even consider
crisp leaves and cool air laced with wood it the other nine months of the year. But I love
smoke. Few vegetables have the power to pumpkin all though the year, and at any time of
evoke in our minds a whole season, an day, from breakfast to dessert.
experience of time and history, of feasts and The recipes that follow are four of my favorite
family and warmth. It's just not the same with, ways to cook with pumpkin: bread pudding, cake,
say, celery. cheesecake, and pie. And while I'm all for seasonal
There are obvious reasons for pumpkin's eating, pumpkin is so good that you might just find
unique stature, not the least of which is that it yourself sneaking it into desserts and baked goods
makes a darn fine pie . The flavor-a luscious bite all through the year.
P u m p k i n , Sweet Potato & Cocon ut Pie

Yields one 9-inch pie; serves eight. I n a medium saucepan, combine the 350°F. In a large bowl, whisk together
sweet potatoes, cin namon stick the pumpkin and sweet potato puree.
This pie is so delicious that I often
pieces, cloves, star anise, and gi nger Whisk in the egg, egg yolk, melted
make two at a time. If you do, use three
sl ices with enough water to just cover butter, and reserved spiced liquid. In
whole eggs when doubling the filling.
the contents. Bring to a boil over high a separate bowl, stir together the
9-inch single pie crust (see the recipe heat. Reduce the heat and simmer granulated and brown sugars with a
on p. 79), chilled uncovered until the sweet potatoes wire whisk until any large lumps of
1 % pounds sweet potatoes, peeled are very tender when pierced with a brown sugar are gone. Sift the flour
a nd cut into 1 -inch chunks fork or skewer, about 1 0 minutes. and salt over the sugars; stir to blend.
1 small cinnamon stick, broken Drain the potatoes, reserving the boil Add the sugar-flour mixture to the
into pieces ing liquid. Return the potatoes to the pumpkin and stir well until no pockets
3 whole cloves pot over low heat and toss to dry
of sugar are visible. Blend in the
1 small star anise, crumbled them a bit. Discard the cinnamon,
l -inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and coconut milk.
cloves, and star anise. Force the
cut into %-inch slices Scrape the filling into the chilled
%
warm potatoes through a ricer, a food
1 5-ounce can pure solid-pack pie shel l ; smooth the top. Bake for
mill, or a sieve. Boil the liquid if
pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling) 1 to 2 hours, turning the pie several
needed, until reduced to % cup. Let
(
1 large egg, l ightly beaten times so it bakes evenly. The point of
the sweet potato mash and the l iquid
1 large egg YOlk, lightly beaten a thin-bladed knife should come out
cool . The sweet potatoes and spiced
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, clean when inserted into the center of
liquid can be prepared u p to three
melted and cooled the filling, and the edges of the sur
days ahead and refrigerated. Bring
% cup granulated sugar face will be unevenly cracked. If the
Y2 cup packed light brown sugar
each to room temperature before
proceeding with the recipe. Each of edges of the pastry darken too much
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
these elements can also be frozen for before the filling is cooked, cover
=¥4 teaspoon table salt
% cup well-stirred canned coconut up to three months; thaw overn ight in them with a pie shield or strips of alu
)
milk (not coconut cream) the refrigerator before bringing to minum foil. Transfer the pie to a wire
% cup cold whipping cream, whipped room temperature. rack and let cool completely before
to soft peaks with 1% tablespoons Position an oven rack in the lower serving with mounds of the lightly
granulated sugar half of the ove n ; heat the oven to sweetened whipped cream.
ti p The custard
for the bread
pudding can be
made up to a day
ahead and cooled,
covered, and
chilled. Bring the
custard back to
room temperature
before using it.
P u m pkin Bread Pudding

Serves six to eight. Heat a kettle of water. Position an ing constantly, gradually pour the
oven rack on the middle rung and hot milk-cream mixture into the
This rich, satisfying pudding is lovely
heat the oven to 350°F. With the pumpkin mixture. Pour the warm
by itself, but the creme fraiche garnish
softened butter, grease a 2 %-quart custard over the bread in the baking
adds a tangy-smooth complement.
ceramic baking dish or casserole dish, making sure to soak each piece
1 tablespoon softened unsalted butter that ' s 3 inches deep. Dust the of bread completely. Gently press
Y4 cup granulated sugar insides with 2 tablespoons of the down on the bread to even the top
1 large loaf (1 to 1 % pounds) day-old granulated sugar. Tap out and d is of the pudding and to ensure that
challah or other soft, eggy bread card the excess. each slice is saturated. Sprinkle the
3 ounces (Y2 cup) dried cranberries Trim the ends off the bread and pudding with the remaining 2 table
or golden raisins cut the rest into '12- to %-inch slices.
spoons granu lated sugar. Set the
1 % cups whole milk Cut the slices in half from top to
baking dish into a larger pan (a
1 % cups heavy cream bottom and arrange them in the
roasting pan is good). Set the pan
7'3 cup packed l ight brown sugar prepared dish in overlapping rows
on the oven rack and add enough
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon or circles, stopping when the dish
hot water from the kettle to come
% teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg is full. Scatter the dried cranberries
halfway up the sides of the baking
% teaspoon table salt over the bread.
Combine the milk and cream in a dish. Bake until the top is light golden
3 large eggs
heavy-based 2-quart saucepan over and crusty and the pudding feels firm,
3 large egg yolks
medium-high heat. Bring just to a boil 45 to 60 minutes. Let the pudding
8 ounces (1 cup) canned pure
and remove from the heat. In a large cool in its water bath on a rack. Serve
solid-pack pumpkin (not
pumpkin pie filling) bowl, whisk together the brown warm or at room temperature in
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. shallow bowls with generous dollops
8 ounces creme fraiche for garnish Whisk in the eggs and yolks. Blend of creme fraiche, if using. Leftovers
(optional) in the pumpkin and vanilla. Wrap a can be covered and refrigerated for
damp kitchen towel around the base up to three days; warm in a 325°F
of the bowl to hold it steady. Whisk- oven before serving, if you l i ke.
76 F I N E C OO K I N G
ti p Before
removing the
cheesecake from
the pan, gently run
a knife around the
pan's inside edge.
Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake with a G i ngers n a p Crust

Yields one 9-inch cheesecake; Chill for 5 minutes and then bake for
serves sixteen. 1 0 minutes. Let cool.
This cheesecake is a luxurious twist Heat a kettle of water. With an
on the traditional Thanksgiving electric mixer or a wooden spoon,
pumpkin pie. beat the cream cheese until smooth.
In a separate bowl, whisk together
FOR TH E G I N G E RSNAP C RUST: the brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger,
About 40 gingersnap wafers allspice, nutmeg, and salt. Add this
(to yield 2 cups cookie crumbs)
m ixture to the cream cheese. Beat
% cup packed l ight brown sugar
until well blended, scraping down
5 tablespoons unsalted butter,
melted and cooled
the sides and bottom of the bowl as
needed. Add the eggs and yolks
FOR TH E FI LLI NG: one at a time, making sure each is
2 pounds (four 8-ounce packages) thoroughly incorporated before
cream cheese, at room
adding the next, and scraping down
temperature
1 % cups packed light brown sugar
the bowl after each. Blend in the
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
vanilla and pumpkin.
Y2 teaspoon ground ginger Scrape the batter into the cooled
% teaspoon ground a l lspice crust. The batter will come up past the
% teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg crust and will fill the pan to the rim.
% teaspoon table salt Tap the pan gently once or twice on
4 large eggs the counter to release any air bubbles.
2 large egg yolks Set the pan i n a larger baking dish (a
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract roasting pan is good), and add
1 5-ounce can pure solid-pack
enough hot water from the kettle to
pumpkin (not pumpkin pie
come about halfway up the sides of
filling)
the springform pan. Bake until the top
Position an oven rack on the middle of the cake looks deep golden and
rung and heat the oven to 350°F. burnished and the center is set (the
To make the crust, pulse the cake may just barely begin to crack),
cookies and brown sugar in a food 1 hour 35 minutes to 1 hour 45 min
processor until well combined and the utes. The cake will jiggle a little bit
crumbs are u niform. Transfer to a when tapped. The top may rise a bit
medium bowl ; add the melted butter. but will settle as it cools. Remove the
Combine thoroughly, first with a cheesecake from the oven and run a "Pumpkin is a rare case of the
spoon and then with your fingers, until thin- bladed knife between the crust canned product actually g iving
the m ixture is evenly moist, crumbly, and the pan sides (this will prevent you better results than the fresh:'
and holds together when you squeeze the cake from breaking as it cools). says Regan Daley.
a handful. Press the mixture evenly Let the cheesecake cool to room tem
over the bottom and partway up the perature i n the pan on a wire rack.
sides of a 9-inch springform pan. Cover and chill overnight.
Photos: bottom right, Amy Albert; aU others, Scott Phillips. O C TO B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2 0 0 3 77

tip This cake
keeps extremely
well, covered
tightly at room
temperature, for up
to six days. It can
also be frozen for
up to two months.
Pump k in & Corn meal Cake with Orange Syrup

Serves ten. FOR THE SYR U P A N D FOR SERVI N G : egg whites until they hold soft peaks.
% cup fresh orange juice (from 1 to Gently fold the whites into the batter
Th i s moist cake is equally good first
2 medium juice oranges) with the spatula until you no longer
thing in the morning and last thing i n
% cup granulated sugar see streaks of white. Scrape the batter
the evening. I like i t with vanilla yogurt Vanilla yogurt or vanilla ice cream
for breakfast or vanilla ice cream for into the prepared pan ; smooth the sur
(optional)
dessert. The syrup can be made u p face. Bake u ntil the top of the cake is
to a week ahead. Position an oven rack on the middle springy when lightly touched, the
rung and heat the oven to 350° F. But sides are beginning to pull away from
FOR THE CAKE: the pan, and a wooden skewer in
Y2 pound (1 cup) unsalted butter,
ter a 9-inch bundt pan. With a hand
mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the serted into the center of the cake
at room temperature
paddle attachment, beat the butter, comes out clean, 40 to 50 minutes.
1 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon finely grated sugar, and orange zest u ntil light and Let cool in the pan for 1 0 minutes and
orange zest fluffy, about 3 minutes. One at a time, then invert the cake onto a wire rack
1 large egg add the egg and egg yolks (remem to cool completely. Dust the cake with
2 large eggs, separated ber to reserve the whites), beating sifted confectioners' sugar, if you l i ke.
8 ounces (1 cup) canned pure solid well and scraping down the sides of I n a small saucepan over low heat,
pack pumpkin (not pumpkin pie the bowl between each addition. Beat combine the orange juice and sugar,
filling) in the pumpkin and vanilla. stirring u ntil the sugar has dissolved.
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract Increase the heat to medium high.
6% ounces (1 % cups) all-purpose
Sift together the flour, baking pow
der, and salt; stir in the cornmeal. Add Boil without stirring for 2 minutes.
flour
this mixture to the pumpkin batter in (If you make the syrup ahead, be sure
2 teaspoons baking powder
three stages, stirring gently but thor to warm it gently before serving.)
% teaspoon table salt
% cup (3% ounces) fine-ground oughly with a rubber spatula after each Serve each slice of cake drizzled
yellow cornmeal (don't use coarse) addition; don't overwork the batter. with syrup and, if you like, accompa
Sifted confectioners' sugar for In a clean bowl with a very clean nied by a scoop of vanilla yogurt or
garnish (optional) whisk or hand mixer, whip the reserved vanilla ice cream.
78 FINE COOKING
Tender Pie Cru st
Yields two 9-inch pie crusts. it and continue to work gently until it
This recipe makes double the pie comes together.
dough that you ' ll need for the pump Cut the dough in half and shape
kin pie recipe on p. 75, so freeze half each into a ball. Flatten each ball into
to use another time. a disk and wrap tightly in plastic. Chill
for at least 4 hours or up to three
2 cups (about 13% ounces) days. (Freeze one if you like, to save
all-purpose flour for another purpose.)
1 teaspoon table salt About 2 hours before baking, re
1 cup solid vegetable shortening, move one of the dough d isks from the
chilled and cut into small pieces refrigerator so it can warm up just
1 large egg
enough to roll without cracking. Un
2 to 3 tablespoons ice water
wrap the dough and rol l it between
1 tablespoon white vinegar
two sheets of waxed paper into a
Combine the flour and salt in a large round about 1 2 inches in diameter.
mixing bowl or a food processor. Peel off the top sheet of waxed paper.
Add the shortening and cut it in with Invert a 9-inch glass pie plate and
a pastry blender or two knives (or center it on the dough. Slide one hand
pulse the processor) until the largest under the bottom sheet of waxed
pieces of shortening are about the paper, position your other hand flat on
size of fat peas. Transfer to a large the pie plate, and quickly flip the plate
mixing bowl if using the food proces and dough over. Peel off the waxed
sor. In a small bowl, beat together the paper and gently press the dough
%
egg, 2 tablespoons of the ice water, down into the plate. With a paring
and the vinegar; add this to the flour knife, trim the dough to within inch
mixture. Work the liquid evenly of the rim of the plate. Fold the dough
through the dough with the tips of under and crimp the edges. Use the
your fingers until it can be collected in trimmings to patch any cracks or bare
a rough ball. If the dough is too dry to spots. Wrap the shell loosely with
come together, gradually sprinkle a plastic wrap and chill for 2 hours or
few drops of the remaining water over up to 24 hours.
ti p Be sure
the pastry is still
well chilled when
you put the pie
i n the oven. This
helps to ensure
that the crust won't
darken too much
during the long
baking time.
Regan Daley is the author of

In the Sweet Kitchen, which
.•
won the LACP Cookbook of
the Year award in 2001
79
c
CI) 5 P E e A L E D T o N
-5 Thanksgiving how-to
I '
.- BY J E N N I F E R A R M E NT R O U T
�
W
e 've ded icated this e d ition of Fro m O u r
I J
Test Kitchen t o t h e tips a n d tech n iq u es
� (f)
that w i l l h e l p you strea m l i n e yo u r h o l i day
coo k i n g . We show you how to roast a
i <D
j u i cy tu rkey and make a rich pan g ravy. We 've
also i n c l u d e d a u n i q u e rec i pe for c ranbe rry
.... I J sauce featuring star anise and an easy

method fo r roasting baby vegetables. And j u st
for fun (and fo r soups , stuffings, or j u st plain
eati ng), our tasti n g panel sampled bacon . . . and
u n covered a few stro n g personal p refe rences.
Roa sti n g th e Trussing:

Tu rkey
You don't have to truss, but the and pull the ends to draw the
finished turkey will look better if legs together (c). Keeping the
you do. Starting under the legs, twine taut to pull the legs in
Keep it moist with one simple trick draw a length of butcher's twine toward the body, run each end
up and over the legs (a). Cross over the thighs and wings and
T
the twine between the legs (b) tie securely at the neck (d) .
here 's a lot going on in the kitchen on
Thanksgiving, so when it comes to cook
ing the turkey, I like to take a low
I take
maintenance approach. My technique is fairly
I start the
hands-off, except for an important step
to make sure the turkey stays moist:
turkey off in the oven breast side down . Other
I do. These
than basting occasionally (to give the skin a
nice brown color) , that's about all
instructions are for a 1 4-pound turkey, which
serves 12 to 14 people, but they can be used
for larger or smaller birds; j ust adj ust the
roasting time accordingly. A fresh turkey is
preferable to frozen .
80 FINE COOKING
More tu rkey tips :
.:. For extra juiciness, brine the turkey
(see www.finecooking.com). Or buy a
kosher turkey, which is already brined.
•:. I don't stuff the turkey because I find it

roasts more evenly that way. The dress
ing also seems to have fuller flavor
and a nice crust-when it's baked sepa
rately. But if you do decide to stuff the
turkey and the turkey is done before the
stuffing reaches 1 65°F (the minimum
safe temperature), spoon the stuffing
into a baking pan large enough to hold
it in a shallow layer. Cover with foil and
finish baking while the turkey rests.
•:. Add flavor to the turkey by putting some

herb sprigs and a quartered onion in the
cavity (if it isn't stuffed). Or rub chopped
herbs or herb butter under the skin.
Roasting 1 ,2 , 3 :
Q u ick Tu rkey G i blet Broth
Yields about 3112 cups.
1. Heat the oven to 325°F. heavy-duty flameproof pan so
Don't throw away the neck and giblets that come with
that you can make the gravy in your turkey. They can be turned into a tasty broth that
Remove the neck, giblets, and
it later. Roast the turkey (with makes terrific gravy. There's n o need to simmer the
tail (save these for the broth
the legs pointing to the back of broth for hours, either. Sweating the meat and onion
recipe at right) from the
the oven if possible) for 1 hour.
in a l ittle oil before adding water jump-starts flavor
turkey, as well as any plastic extraction, so your broth is ready in just about an
parts, like leg connectors or 3 . With wads of paper towels hour. You can make the broth u p to three days ahead.
pop-up timers. Rinse the in both hands, lift the turkey Turkey neck, gizzard, tail, and heart
turkey well inside and out and at the neck and tail ends and 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
pat it dry thoroughly with 1 large onion, cut into 2-inch chunks
flip it breast side up. Continue
Kosher salt
paper towels. Truss the turkey, roasting until a thermometer 1 small carrot, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
if you like ( see the photos at inserted in the thickest part 1 rib celery, cut into 2-inch pieces
left ) . Rub the turkey all over 1 bay leaf
of the thighs reads 1 70°F,
2 large sprigs each fresh thyme and flat-leaf parsley
with olive oil or melted clari another 2 to 2 Y2 hours. While 8 to 1 0 black peppercorns
fied butter; this helps the the turkey roasts, baste it every
turkey brown evenly. (You can Chop the turkey neck into three to four pieces with a
30 minutes or so with oil,
cleaver. Chop the gizzard in half. Heat the oil in a large
also use melted whole butter, butter, or pan drippings and saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the turkey neck,
but the milk solids might make rotate the pan occasionally for gizzard, tail, and heart (don't use the liver) along with
the turkey a little spotted . ) even browning. Transfer the the onion and V2 teaspoon salt. Stir to coat with oil,
Sprinkle the turkey with kosher turkey to a carving board or cover, and cook gently for 20 minutes, stirring occa·
salt to help crisp the skin. sionally; the meat will release lots of juice.
platter, tent it loosely with foil,
Add 4 cups cold water and the carrot, celery, bay
2. Put the turkey breast side and let it rest for 20 to 30 min leaf, thyme, parsley, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil
utes while you make the gravy. over medium-high heat, cover, and reduce the heat to
down on a V-shaped rack in
Remove the trussing strings maintain a gentle simmer. Simmer u ntil the broth is
a roasting pan, preferably a flavorful, 30 to 40 minutes. Strain the broth and use
before carving.
immediately or let cool. Pick the meat from the neck
and tail to add to the gravy along with the chopped
g izzard and heart, if you l ike.
Photos: Scott Phillips O C TO B E R/ N o V E M B E R 2 0 0 3 81

Than ksg ivi ng h ow-to
I
Cl a s s i c pa n
G ravy
Free of lumps and full of flavor
F
or some folks, the gravy is the best part of Thanksgivir
Made by thickening the pan drippings and giblet bro
with roux (a mixture of flour and fat) , gravy is pure (
sence of turkey. It's easiest to make it right in the roash
pan, but if your pan isn't flameproof, use a sa ucepan instea
After you pour off the liquid drippings from the roasting pa
pour some of the broth into the hot roasting pan and scra
with a wooden spoon to capture any cooked-on drippings
Gravy 1 ,2,3:
Gravy formula
1. Heat the giblet broth. Pour 2 .To keep lumps from form 3.At this point, it's safe to You 'll need about 1/3 cup gravy
Y2 cup of the broth into

the juices from the roasting ing in the gravy, slowly pour whisk in the remaining broth per person.
pan into a heatproof cup. Let about and bring the gravy to a sim
For each cup of g ravy, use
the fat rise to the top and the pan while whisking vigor mer. Add a few sprigs of
1 tablespoon fat and
then spoon the fat you need ously to disperse the flour thyme and simmer for about
for the gravy ( see the formula evenly into the liquid. The 5 minutes. Strain the gravy 1 112 tablespoons flour.
at right) back into the roast liquid should thicken quickly through a medium sieve,
Y2 cup
ing pan. Skim off and discard and get gluey. As soon as it season with salt and pepper, For example:
the remaining fat from the thickens, add another and serve in a heated gravy To make 1 2 servings of
gravy use:
juices; add the juices to the or so of broth while whisking. boat or other vessel.
giblet broth. Set the roasting Repeat until the gravy starts 4 cups liquid (giblet
broth, p. 81 , plus
pan over two burners on looking more like a smooth
degreased pan juices)
medium heat. Sprinkle the sauce than glue.
4 tablespoons fat
flour into the pan. Stir with
a flat whisk or wooden spoon
6 tablespoons flour
and cook for about 2 minutes. If you don't have enough
broth and pan juices for the
amount of gravy you need,
add homemade or low-salt
canned chicken broth to
make up the difference.
This could be
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=�
22
• Tomato soups
31
• Creamy polenta
39
• Barbecue chicken
44
• Pie and tart guide
• Vibrant salsas for • Moist meatloaf without burning it • lasagna
grilled food • Savory stir-fry • Potatoes on the grill • Slow-sauteed spring
• Easy cooking skirt steak
Angel food cake
• Chocolate truffles • An olive oil primer vegetables
• • Sear-roas�ng chicken, • Cool pastas to make ahead • One golden broth,
• Lemongrass fish, or steak • Three steps to the three chicken soups
sweetest peppers •• Ripping for spatulas
24 34 Fabulous french fries
• Moist, delicious stuffing Baking brownies

40
• Cozy Christmas dinner
•
• Crunchy slaw • Freeform rus�c tarts 45
•• Slow-grilled turkey • Southern fried chicken • Grilling guide • Grill a juicy burger
Choosing knives • Summer pastas • Gazpacho •• Real baked beans
• Southern vegetables • Shortcake cobbler and • Homemade ice cream Stuffed chicken breasts
• Frittatas for any meal upside-down cake • Grilled com on the cob • Fresh vegetables get
• Cool summer salads great ftavor fast
• Making ravioli
27 36
• Cool noodle salads • Classic potato gra�n
41 from scratch
Baking apple desserts

• Roast on the grill • Stuffed French toast
Perfec�ng the marriage of
•
• Hearty meat sauces
46
• Classic French • • Three sweet breads from • A casual menu from Spain
potato salad pasta and sauce
one simple dough • Juciest grilled pork chops
• Fresh strawberry • Chicken under a brick
• Meaty portabellas • Lucious plum desserts
desserts
• Pulling together a stellar • How to bake a double-
• Chicken salad
37 Thanksgiving dinner crust fruit pie
• A fresh take on
28 baked pasta 42 47
• Brochettes on the grill • Subtle bay leaf
• Make-ahead mini beef • Turkey, bread stuffing,
• Barbecued ribs • Broccoli, boldly seasoned
Wellingtons and gravy
• Blueberry shortcake • A French country dessert
• Roasted potatoes • Three methods for
• Sizzling sauces for • Tender, nutty
• Christmas cookies roast chicken
Fine •
grilled foods
Twice-baked souftles
sesame noodles
• Making glazed vegetables • Vegetable stews
• Moist, tender
Cooking 38 43 upside-down cake
30
2002
• Baked chicken
• Beef tenderloin • Sauce guide
•
•
Cooking without recipes
A fresh look at spinach
48
Great gift •
•
Savory bread puddings
Crisp potato latkes
•
•
Lemon meringue pie
Juicy, tender
• Get great flavor from • Elegant easy Cornish hens
Crea�ng your own
for anyone who • Rustic breads baked ham
ground meat
•
Quick recipes
loves to cook! • Designing a pantry
• A Spanish tortilla is the
• Cassoulet
best of all omelets
• Holiday souffle cake
A full year of • Greatness in a grater
Fine Cooking - all 7 issues -
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Tha n k s g i vi ng h ow-to
I
Roa sti n g ba by
Veg etab l es
High heat concentrates flavor
O
ne of my favorite ways to dress up the turkey platter
-and offer a vegetable that everyone likes-is to
roast a selection of baby vegetables. They're easy
to prepare because the skins and stems are tender and
require almost no trimming. And by cooking them with
h igh h e a t , they' l l roast in just a bout the same time
the turkey needs to rest-particularly handy if you have
only one oven.
Roasted Baby Squ a s h , Heat the oven to 450°F. Wash and for 1 0 minutes. Use a spatula to flip
Carrots & Potatoes dry the vegetables. Trim off any tips and move the vegetables around,
or stems that seem extra long, and and then continue roasting for
Baby pattypa n squash,
2 to 3 per serving halve any vegetables that seem a another 5 minutes. Pierce each type
Baby red a nd yellow potatoes, little large. Toss each type of vege of vegetable with a fork to check for
2 to 3 per serving table separately in olive oil (just tenderness. If one type is tender,
Baby carrots, preferably with tops, enough to coat) , salt, pepper, and transfer it with a spatula to your
2 to 3 per servi ng a little chopped thyme or rosemary. serving bowl or platter, tent with
Extra-virg i n olive oil Spread the vegetables in a single aluminum foil, and continue roasting
Kosher salt and freshly ground layer on a rimmed baking sheet, the other vegetables until they' re
black pepper keeping each type in a separate tender, checking every 5 minutes.
Chopped fresh thyme or rosemary group so you can easily remove one The longest-cooking vegetable
if it cooks faster than the others. the potatoes-will take about
Roast in the center of the oven 25 minutes total.
favorite g a d g et
,--
Oxo a pple corer We were glad w e had this apple corer while testing the
tarte Tatin recipe on p. 65. The recipe calls for cored apple
halves, and this tool removes the core and ends in one
swift motion. Serrations at the end make it easy to plunge
ti p :
For salads made with
the tool into the apple, and the soft rubber grip prevents
raw apples, choose
slippage when your hands are slick with apple juice.
the Golden Delicious
The drawback, common to all apple corers of this design,
variety. It doesn't
is that you need to be good at guessing exactly where the
oxidize and turn
core lies. If your aim is a little off, you'll have to do a little
brown the way other
core clean-up once you cut the apple i n half (a melon
varieties do.
bailer works well for this). The Oxo Good Grips apple
corer is about $6 or $7 at many kitchen-supply shops.
To order by mail, see Where to Buy It, p. 90.
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A
SPice as fragrant-and as beauti
ful-as star anise deserves a more
i ngredient
I promine nt spot on our spice
shelves. The star-shaped spice is the
dried fruit of a small Asian evergreen
tree that's a member of the magnolia
family. Harvested when it's still green
and unripe, it's dried in the sun, where
it develops its red-brown color and a
sweet, warm flavor that's reminiscent
of licorice, clove , fennel s e e d , and
aniseed ( although it's botanically un
related to any of these spices).
How to use it:

Star anise is used primarily in Vietnam
ese and Chinese cooking. M uch like
bay leaves are used in Western cui
sines, whole stars are used to infuse
soups, stews, and braised dishes, like
the short ribs on p. 49. Ground star
anise is the dominant ingredient in
Chinese five-spice powder, which also
includes Sichuan peppercorns, fennel
seed, cinnamon, and clove s . A little
ground star anise goes a long way; try
adding a pinch to a stir-fry or substi
Cran berry Sa u ce with Sta r A n i se & Port tute it for aniseed ( use about half the
Yields about 21/2 cups. Bring t o a boil over medium amount of a niseed called for) . Star
high heat, stirring to dissolve anise also complements sweet foods,
% cup ruby port
3/4 cup granulated sugar
the sugar. As soon as the mix especially ones that include fruit. Try
ture reaches a boil, remove it adding it to pear-poaching liquid.
2 whole star a n ise
Pinch salt from the heat, cover, and let
stand for 20 minutes to infuse
How to buy & store it:
12 ounces fresh or frozen
cranberries the star anise into the liquid.
1 teaspoon finely grated Meanwhile, pick through the Some supermarkets carry whole or
orange zest cranberries for stems, rinse
ground star anise, but your best bets
them well in a colander, and
In a medium saucepan, com for the freshest spice are Asian mar
let drai n.
bine the port, sugar, star Return the liquid to a boil kets, natural-foods stores, and mail
an ise, salt, and 112 cup water. over med ium-high heat and order spice houses (see p. 90). If you
add the cranberries. When need ground star anise, you can grind
the mixture again returns to the whole stars ( including the seeds)
a boil, lower the heat to a in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle,
simmer and cook, occasion but commercially ground will be more
al ly stirring gently, until most
finely textured than home-ground.
of the berries have popped
Like all spices, star anise should be
open and the sauce has
th ickened slightly, 8 to stored in an airtight container away
1 0 minutes. D iscard the star from light and heat. Whole stars will
anise. Stir in the orange zest stay fresh for about two years; ground
and let the sauce cool to star anise lasts about one year. To
room temperature. If not using check the freshness of a whole star,
(
the same day, refrigerate for break off a point and squeeze it until
up to a week return the the seed pops. If you don't immedi
)
sauce to room temperature
ately smell the distinctive aroma, it's
before serving .
likely past its prime.
86 FINE COOKING
TWO-PIECE WUSTHOF "ASIAN " COOK'S SET
The 3" Sheep's Foot Poring Knife slices and trims vegetables
and fruits. Create ribbon-thin peels and great garnishes.
READER SERVICE NO. 1 2 7" Hollow Ground Santoku Knife. Minces, chops and dices.
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tast i n g p a n e l
I
B a co n
O
acon is much more than the standard sidekick to a
plate of eggs or stack of pancakes. It's a staple in
gredient in all styles of cooking-used in the base of
many soups and stews, folded into beans, pasta , or
potato salad, or crumbled over a salad or just about
any vegetable . So we thought it would be useful to O S CAR M EY E R
serve up a blind tasting of some of the bacons in their $4.99 for 1 pound
standard-cut (as opposed to thick-cut) versions that "Finally, a substantial slice of bacon:'
you're likely to see in your grocery store. While the noted one taster. Particularly favored
bacons are listed in ranking order, we found that every for its textural balance of crispness and
one has different tastes when it comes to bacon-some chewiness, the bacon had a little
like lean and chewy, some prefer crisp and fatty. Read "honeyed" sweetness to it that was
more pronounced than the salt flavor.
on to find out which brand here meets your ideal.
It was also well balanced, with clean
-Maryellen Driscoll, editor at large pork flavor, just enough (not too much)
fatty flavor, and slight smokiness.
TASTI N G RES U LTS

Bacons are numbered in order of preference.
FA R M LA N D N I MA N
1 pound
RANCH
$3.99 for $2.59 for 8 ounces $4.69 for 1 pound $3.99 for 1 pound
$3. 79 for 12 ounces $3.99 for 1 pound
This was a lean Flavor carried this Composed of large, With an attractive,
If you want to add This bacon was char-
bacon lover's favor- bacon, with a pleas- wide strips, this russet-red meat
some smoky flavor to acterized by a crisp,
ite, marked by a ant emphasis on the bacon had a pleas- color, this bacon
a pot of beans or a almost "shattery" tex-
pleasantly chewy sweet, a modest hit ant balance of tasted slightly sweet
stew, this is your ture, which won over
and meaty texture of salt, mild smoki- sweet, salty, and and porky, not
bacon. It's extremely the tasters who like a
(but no crisp fat, for ness, and an overall pork flavors but was noticeably salty.
smoky-considered "melt-in-your-mouth"
those who like a clean taste. The slim somewhat lacking in The drawback was
by most to be too quality to their bacon.
little-or a lot-of stri ps of dark, rosy- overall character. its texture. The meat
distinctly smoky to But most tasters
that too). There was colored meat and The texture was was chewy and
serve with breakfast. wanted more meaty
a nice balance of golden-crisped fat pleasantly chewy but somewhat tough
The thick slices chew and overall
sweet, salty, and were chewy-"you lacked the classic and laced with
had a crackly crisp- substance. The flavor
pork flavors, al- get your bite's worth crisp counterpart. flabby fat that would
tender texture with was primarily salty
though the absence without it being have been hard to
slight chewiness. and fatty with some
of marbled fat made overly meaty"-but crumble.
smokiness.
it reminiscent of ham. not especially crisp.
88 FINE COOKING
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SUITE
READER SERVICE NO. 1 30 READER SERVICE NO. 2 8
Tarte Tatin p. 62 by Vietri. To find a store near you
Although a heavy skillet works well that carries the dish, call 800-277-
for making tarte Tatin, Le Creuset 5933 or visit www.vietri.com.
makes pans that are designed
specifically for making the apple From Our Test Kitch en p. 80
dessert. A 1 %-quart, 1 O-inch pan Penzeys Spices (800-74 1 -778 7 ;
is $44.99 at Chef's Catalog www.penzeys.com) offers a
(www.chefscatalog.com; 800- 1 -ounce bag of whole star anise
8 84-2433). for $3. 1 9. You can find the Oxo
Good Grips 8-inch apple corer in
Using Up the Turkey p . 6 6 kitchen-supply stores and at
For a sturdy, roomy stockpot in Cooking.com (800-663-8 8 1 0)
which to make the turkey stock, for $6.50.
visit Bridge Kitchenware
(www.bridgekitchenware.com ;
2 1 2-688-4220). The New York
company sells stainless-steel
French Sitram pots ranging in size
from 1 1 .6 quarts all the way up to
22.2 q uarts, and starting at
$78.50. To find a jar of the chile
paste sambaI oelek, visit an Asian
grocer or go to Oriental Pantry
(www.orientalpantry.com; 978-
264-4576), which sells an
1 8-ounce bottle of the hot paste
I n S eason p . 1 6
from Huy Fong Foods for $3.49.
Burpee (800-888-1 447;
www.burpee.com) carries three
Wild Rice p. 71
varieties of butternut squash
& D elicious
For a source for authentic wild
seeds, including its own Burpee
rice, look to Northland Native Quick p. 98C
Butterbush. Pinetree Garden
American Products (6 1 2-872- To find a store near you
Seeds (207-926-3400; www
0390; www.northlandvisions that carries Delverde ' s nests
.superseeds.com) in New
.com), which sells 1 6-ounce of pappardelle, call Delverde
Gloucester, Maine, sells seeds
bags for $7.95. at 800-222-4409, or order
for Early Butternut and Waltham
Butternut squash. Stokes Seeds an 8-ounce box of the pasta
Pumpkin D esserts p. 74
from efoodpantry.com (866-
(www.stokesseeds.com; 7 1 6-
For a reliable springform cheese 372-6879) for $3. 1 1 .
695-6980) lists eight varieties of
cake pan, try Sur La Table (866-
butternut seeds, including
328-5 4 1 2 ; www.surlatable.com).
Butternut Supreme and Avalon.
which carries a 9-inch nonstick
pan from Kaiser for $40. Sur
Kitch en D etail p. 38
La Table also sells a Nordic Ware
For more information on Cricket
1 2-cup capacity nonstick
Winton's kitchen, call Franzen
bundt pan for $28.95 for
Associates at 203-259-0529.
making the pumpkin
cornmeal cake. The
Short Ribs M en u p. 4 6
saffron oval baking
For small gratin dishes for making
dish ( 1 7x1 01hx3
Leslie Revsin's Pear & Hazelnut
inches) in which
G ratin, go to A Cook's Wares
we baked the
(www.cookswares.com; 800-
pumpkin bread
9 1 5-9788). A 6-inch round Apilco
pudding is made
dish is $ 1 1 .50.
90 F I N E COOKING Photos: top left. Amy Albert; all others, Scott Phillips.
advertisers' i ndex
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O C TO B E R/ OVE M B E R 2 0 0 3 97
nutrition i nformation
Recipe Page Calories Protein Carb Fats (g) Chol. Sodium Fiber Notes
(analysis per serving) total from fat ( g) ( g) total sat mono poly (mg) (mg) ( g)
In Season 16
Butternut Squash Soup wlCumin & Coriander 170 80 4 21 9 2 520 based on 6 servings
Roasted Butternut Squash 70 15 1 15 1 .5 0 250 based on 6 servings
World C u i s i n e s 34
Ajiaco (Colombian Chicken Soup) 440 170 26 46 19 70 1 300
Short R i b s M e n u 46
Crunchy Roasted Pepitas 50 40 2 2 4.5 1 1 .5 0 90 per tablespoon
Mashed Potatoes wI Lemon Garlic& 430 210 8 51 23 14 7 65 280
Asian-Style Beef Short Ribs w/Julienned Leeks 530 250 42 21 28 11 11 115 2140
&
Pear Hazelnut Gratin 450 250 4 49 28 13 11 65 80
Bra i si ng 51
Orange-Braised Chicken wI Crisp Prosciutto 310 1 20 32 14 13 7 1 20 880 1
Pork Chops wI Sweet Onions, Capers & Vermouth 300 160 20 10 17 7 80 870 1
Beer-Braised Sirloin Tips wlMushroom Sauce 400 180 38 12 20 10 1 20 620 2
Halibut Braised in a Tomato-Fennel Broth 330 1 30 37 10 14 9 55 730 4
Swiss C h a rd 56
Sauteed Swiss Chard 100 60 4 9 7 5 1 0 720 4
&
Sauteed Swiss Chard wI Slivered Almonds Browned Butter 210 160 6 12 17 10 2 15 720 5 based on 4 servings
Sauteed Swiss Chard w/Sun-Dried Tomatoes Feta & 150 90 6 11 10 6 1 10 870 4 based on 4 servings
Sauteed Swiss Chard Asian-Style wI Ginger Peanuts& 160 100 7 13 11 7 2 0 720 5 based on 4 servings
Sauteed Swiss Chard wI Gremolata 110 60 4 9 7 5 1 0 720 4 based on 4 servings
Sauteed Swiss Chard wlAnchovies Parmesan& 180 90 10 15 10 6 1 10 1130 4 based on 4 servings
Vegetable Grati n s 58
Butternut Squash, Apple, Leek & Potato Gratin 330 180 30 20 12 60 660 4 based on 8 servings
Sweet Potato-Russet Potato Gratin 280 1 40 32 15 9 45 790 3 based on 8 servings
Red Potato, Cabbage, Bacon & Gruyere Gratin 300 170 24 19 11 55 770 3 based on 8 servings
Ta rte Tat i n 62
Classic Tarte Tatin 400 140 67 15 4 60 1 20 based on 10 servings, wlo garnish
Pate Brisee 140 60 18 6 2 35 100 based on 10 servings
U s i n g Up the Tu rkey 66
Turkey Stock 20 5 2 1 0.5 0 0.5 0 0 40 0 per cup
&
Turkey Fall Vegetables in a Saffron-Scented Broth 630 100 33 102 11 5 3 2 55 980 15
&
Turkey Blue Cheese Salad w/Tarragon-Mustard Vinaigrette 470 300 32 13 33 7 20 4 75 490 6
Turkey Soup wlGinger, Lemon Mint & 160 25 15 19 3 1 0.5 1 25 330 3
Turkey Cakes wlSpicy Roasted Tomato Salsa 390 210 22 26 23 6 13 3 110 790 3 per serving, using cream
Spicy Roasted Tomato Salsa 20 0 1 5 0 0 0 0 0 250 1 per V4 cup
W i l d Rice 71
Wild Rice wI Dried Cranberries & Hazelnuts 190 50 5 34 5 5 100 3 based on 6 servings
&
Wild Rice Bread Dressing wI Apple, Apricot & Sage 300 1 40 5 33 16 20 240 4 based on 12 servings
&
Beef Wild Rice Soup wI Winter Vegetables 320 1 30 16 26 15 50 610 4
Pu m p k i n Desserts 74
&
Pumpkin, Sweet Potato Coconut Pie 530 260 6 65 28 13 110 400 5 based on 8 servings per pie
Pumpkin Bread Pudding 550 240 12 66 27 14 270 500 3 based on 8 servings wlo garnish
Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake wla Gingersnap Crust 410 240 7 36 27 16 155 320 1 based on 16 servings
&
Pumpkin Cornmeal Cake wI Orange Syrup 410 180 5 54 20 12 115 180 2 without yogurt or ice cream
Tender Pie Crust 170 110 2 12 12 3 15 150 0 Va
per of a single crust
From O u r Test Kitchen 80
Roast Turkey 400 1 20 66 0 13 4 4 3 170 770 0 based on 14 servings wlo skin
%
Quick Turkey Giblet Broth 90 80 2 0 8 1 2 5 0 310 0 per cup
Turkey Pan Gravy 60 40 1 3 4.5 1 .5 2 1 5 250 0 based on 12 servings (about cup)
%
Roasted Baby Squash, Carrots & Potatoes 90 45 2 12 5 0.5 3.5 0.5 0 260 2 per 4-ounce serving, wll tsp olive oil
Cranberry Sauce wI Star Anise & Port 90 0 1 21 0 0 0 0 0 15 2 per cup
Quick & Delicious 98C
Rotini wlSpiced Tomato & Black Olive Meat Sauce 640 220 29 75 24 7 13 2 55 1010 5
Spaghetti wI Pine Nuts, Tomato & Garlic Breadcrumbs 850 350 21 106 39 6 24 7 0 800 6
&
Linguine wlClams Lemon-Garlic Oil 660 270 21 72 30 4 21 3 25 530 4
&
Risotto-Style Pasta wI Peas Mushrooms 440 150 16 57 17 7 8 1 25 500 5 based on 4 servings
Orecchiette wI Caramelized Garlic, Sausage & Broccoli 760 320 36 77 36 9 21 4 45 910 8
&
Pappardelle wlShrimp Zucchini 650 290 34 55 32 5 22 3 155 1520 3 based on 3 servings
Bucatini in a Spicy Tomato Sauce wlCrisped Pancetta 620 180 31 79 20 6 11 2 40 1860 5
&
Farfalle in a Broth of Wild Mushrooms Browned Shallots 510 160 16 69 17 3 11 2 5 610 4
% teaspoon salt and

The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian at calculations. Optional ingredients and those listed without a specific quantity of salt and pepper aren't specified, the analysis is based
The Food Consulting Company of Del Mar, California. When a recipe
gives a choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used in the
quantity are not included. When a range of ingredient amounts or
servings is given, the smaller amount or portion is used. When the
on
Va teaspoon salt and V16Va teaspoon pepper per serving for entrees, and
teaspoon pepper per serving for side dishes.
98 FINE COOKING
A U S T RA L I A N LA M B
easy as one, two, th ree
ONE LEG OF AUSTRALIAN

LAMB AND ONE TABLESPOON
TWO . CUT SLITS I N
LAMB, I NSERT SIX
..
_
. THREE TABLESPOONS
OF OLIVE OIL S E N SATI ONAL!
OF DRIED ROSEMARY GARLIC CLOVES.
j
En oy the no-fuss preparation of this Classic Leg of Lam b recipe. It's a whole new take on how to d o the
hol idays - so easy ! Then, while it roasts, there's plenty of time to savor the irresistible aromas of you r hol iday
d inner. In one bite, you ' l l know why no other lamb com pares in flavor. A p u re, all-nat u ral d iet ensu res the sweet
and m ild taste of Fresh Austral ian P rem ium Lam b . Visit ou r website to find more q u ick and easy lam b recipes.
For this Classic Leg of Lamb recipe and others,

please visitwww.australian-Iamb.com.
Also, check out the listing of retailers near you.
A u stra l i a n La m b .
W
ildcrafting" is the official term, and
"forager" is fashionable , but Lars
Per Norgren simply calls himself a
mushroom picker and dealer. He has been
gathering in the Oregon woods for twenty
years, supplying to chefs who transform
the mushrooms into remarkable d ishes
with a distinctly local flavor. Golden
chanterelles are at their most delicious in
a simple saute , Lars fin d s , while the
yellowfoot variety benefits from long, slow
cooking. M atsutak e s , prized for their
distinctive aroma and firm texture , are
- p i cked
de licious thinly sliced and s immere d

i n broth.
Lars grew up in Oregon's Coastal
Range and has been attuned to its woods
his whole life . But the decision to make a
living of gathering mushrooms came in
early adulthood , after he ate an omelet
filled with chanterelles. "They j ust tasted
so much better than any wild food I had
ever eaten," he recalls. "It was a defining
•
moment. "
-Amy Albert, senior editor
An expert learns to find the best
spots. Oregon's varied climate and
woodsy terrain allow for one of the

longest m ushroom seasons anywhere.
For m o re i nformati o n , see p. 90.

en
::J weeknight pasta BY TO N Y R O S E N F E l D
o o tip s .:. To speed u p these recipes, start by .:. Follow the "Put the pasta in the water" direction
. - putting the water for the pasta on to in each of these recipes for the best timing, so that
u boil and proceed with the rest of the

recipe preparation in the meantime.
your pasta and your sauce will be done at about the
same time.
Roti n i with S piced Tom ato Spag hetti with Pine N uts, Tomato
&B lack O l ive Meat Sauce & Garlic Breadcru m bs
o Serves four.
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper. Cook the
Serves four.
% cup extra-virgin olive oil a medium bowl and stir in
2 cloves garlic, m inced beef, using a large spoon 2 cloves garlic, minced the pine nuts.
% tsp. crushed red chile to break it into small 2% cups fresh coarse
Put the pasta in the water.
flakes pieces, until it's evenly breadcrumbs
3j4 Ib. ground beef Kosher salt and freshly Add 2 Tbs. of the oil to
browned, 3 to 4 minutes. the skillet and cook the
(I prefer 85% lean) ground black pepper
Put the pasta i n the water. % cup pine nuts, toasted remaining garlic, the
% tsp. ground cinnamon
Kosher salt a nd freshly Pour the tomatoes and % lb. dried spaghetti raisins, and the chile
ground black pepper their juices into the sauce % cup raisins flakes until the garlic is
28-oz. can whole peeled pan, lower the heat to % tsp. crushed red chile fragrant but not browned,
tomatoes medium, and cook for flakes about 30 seconds. Add
3j4 Ib. dried rotini 5 minutes, using the 1 pint cherry tomatoes, the tomatoes, season
% tsp. granulated sugar spoon to break them into halved generously with salt and
Y3 cup pitted kalamata smaller pieces. Stir in the 6 Tbs. chopped fresh pepper, and saute for
olives, quartered flat-leaf parsley
sugar, the olives, and all 5 minutes so they start to
lengthwise
% cup packed chopped
but 2 Tbs. of the parsley. soften and lose their
Put a large pot of salted
Taste for salt and pepper shape. Fold i n all but
fresh flat-leaf parsley water on to boil.
and keep the sauce warm 2 Tbs. of the parsley.
Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil
Put a large pot of salted over low heat. Finish cooking the
and half the garlic in a
water on to boil. Finish cooking the pasta u ntil it's just tender,
heavy skillet over medium -
Heat the oil, garlic, and rotini until it's just tender, about 1 0 minutes total.
high heat until the garlic
chile flakes in a large about 8 minutes total. Drain the pasta, put it
is fragrant but not brown,
saucepan over medium Drain and add to the meat in a large serving bowl,
about 30 seconds. Turn
heat. When the garlic is sauce. Cook together, and toss with the tomato
the heat to medium, toss
fragrant but not browned, stirring well, for 1 m i nute. mixture, half of the bread
in the breadcrumbs,
about 1 minute, add the Serve immediately, crumbs, and 2 Tbs. of
season with salt and
beef and cinnamon and sprinkled with the remain the olive oil. Taste for salt
%
pepper, and cook, stirring
season generously with ing 2 Tbs. parsley. and pepper. Drizzle each
o
often , u ntil the crumbs
serving with Tbs. of the
brown and turn crisp, 6 to
remaining oil and sprinkle
1 0 minutes. Transfer to
with the remaining bread
crumbs and parsley.
Serve immediately.
O C TO B E R/ N oV E M B E R 2 0 0 3 98C
-:- Cook the pasta in plenty of water (at least 4 quarts) o
and season it with kosher salt (at least 2 tablespoons ) .
Stir often, especially just after adding the pasta, so that
it doesn't stick together.
Risotto-Style Pasta with Pea s

& M u s h rooms
Serves two to three as a main course or four as a side dish.
% oz. dried porcini or dried the onion is soft and
li n g u i ne with C l a m s shiitake mushrooms translucent, about 3 min·
& Le mon -Garl ic O i l 2V2 to 3 cups low-salt utes. Add the pasta and
Serves four.
0
canned chicken broth cook, stirring, u ntil it
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
%
browns in places and is
1 lemon lemon strips. Transfer a 1 small red onion, finely
% cup extra-virgin olive oil
coated evenly with the oil,
little more than cup of diced
about 1 minute. Add the
4 cloves garlic, thinly the oil (without the garlic) Kosher salt and freshly
sliced
mushrooms and 1 cup of
to a small bowl. ground black pepper
% lb. dried linguine V2 lb. dried elbows
the broth ; stir well. When
Y4 tsp. crushed red chile Put the pasta in the water.
1 cup frozen peas the broth reaches a boil,
For a foolproof flakes Raise the heat under % cup grated Parmigiano reduce the heat so that it
2 lb. small clams (I like the skillet to high and add Reggiano simmers gently. When the
method for removing
l ittlenecks), rinsed and the chile flakes and the 2 Tbs. unsalted butter broth is almost completely
the grit from clams,
scrubbed to remove grit clams. Cook the clams for Grated zest of 1 lemon absorbed, continue to add
soak them in cold % cup dry white wine 1 minute, shaking the pan. 1 2 basil leaves, torn into broth in V2-CUP increments,
salted water (about Kosher salt a nd freshly Pour in the wine and cook large pieces stirring until it' s almost
1 1/2 Tbs. salt for ground black pepper for 1 m inute. Cover the completely absorbed be-
1 quart water) with % cup coarsely chopped pan and cook, shaking the Soak the dried mushrooms fore adding more. After the
fresh flat-leaf parsley; pan occasionally, until all in 1 cup boiling water third addition is absorbed,
2 Tbs. cornmeal for
more for garnish until they soften, about
20 minutes. Rinse
the clam shells open, 3 to toss in the peas and con-
5 minutes. 1 0 minutes. Heat the tinue adding broth and stir-
and scrub the clams Put a large pot of salted chicken broth in a medium
Finish cooking the lin- ring until the pasta is just
well before cooking. water on to boil. saucepan over low heat.
Peel five 1 -inch-wide guine u ntil it's just tender, tender, about 1 4 minutes
about 1 0 minutes total. Transfer the mushrooms to total (you may not need
strips of zest from the a cutting board and chop
lemon with a peeler. Drain and add to the to use all of the broth).
clams. Raise the heat to very coarsely. Slowly pour Remove the pan from the
Cut the lemon in half for off the mushroom soaking
high and cook for 1 to heat. Stir in the Parmigiano,
%
j uicing later. liquid into the chicken
Heat the oil in a large 2 minutes, tossing gently. butter, half of the lemon
Stir in the cup parsley broth, leaving any sedi- zest, and half of the basil.
skillet over medium heat. ment behind.
Add the garlic and lemon and a squeeze of lemon Taste and add more lemon
juice (about 1 Tbs.). Heat the oil in a large zest, salt, or pepper if you
strips and cook, shaking saucepan over medium-
Add more salt, pepper, like. Serve immediately
0
the pan occasionally, until high heat for 30 seconds.
the garlic starts to brown or lemon juice to taste. with the remaining basil
Serve immediately, Add the onion; season sprinkled on top.
around the edges, about generously with salt and
3 minutes. Remove from topped with a drizzle of
the reserved lemon-garlic pepper. Cook, stirring, until
the heat and use a fork to
pick out and discard the oil and more parsley.
FINE COOKING Photo: Scott Phillips

.0
C
o o
/\
Qo
0-
CD
-_.
n_.
o
c
en
B u cati n i in a Spicy Tomato Sauce Farfa l le i n a Broth of Wild M u s h rooms

with Cri sped Pa n cetta & B rowned S h a l l ots
Serves four. Serves four.
% lb. %-inch-thick slices stirring often , u ntil the 6 oz. fresh shiitake mush skillet. Season with salt and
pancetta (about 6), cut onion is soft and translu rooms cook for 2 minutes, stirring
into %-inch dice cent, 6 to 7 minutes. % lb. fresh oyster mush occasionally. Reduce the
3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil rooms heat to medium low and
1 large red onion, halved % cup extra-virgin olive oil cook until the shallots
o
and sliced thinly Add the pureed toma Kosher salt and freshly brown and soften, 2 to
% tsp. crushed red chile toes to the skillet and ground black pepper
4 minutes (don't let them
flakes cook to thicken the sauce 3/4 lb. dried farfalle
burn). Raise the heat to
Kosher salt a nd freshly slightly, about 5 min utes. 4 shallots (about 3 oz. total),
high, add the sherry, and
ground black pepper Stir in the oregano and sliced crosswise into
Y4- to Va-inch thick rings
cook, scraping the bottom
28-oz. can peeled whole season generously with
tomatoes, pureed in a % cup dry sherry of the pan, until the sherry is
salt and pepper to taste.
blender 3 cups low-salt canned almost completely boiled
Finish cooking the
1 tsp. dried oregano chicken broth off, about 30 seconds. Add
pasta until it ' s just tender,
0/4 lb. dried bucatini (or 2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves, the chicken broth. After
about 1 0 min utes total.
thick spaghetti) chopped 2 minutes, return the mush
Drain and add to the
0/4 cup grated Pecorino % tsp. Tabasco sauce; rooms to the pan, reduce
sauce. Toss well with the
pancetta and V2 cup of
Romano more to taste the heat to medium, and
% cup grated Parmigiano cook the broth another
Put a large pot of salted the Pecorino. Serve im Reggiano 2 minutes. Sprinkle in the
water on to boil. mediately, topped with a
thyme and Tabasco and
In a large skillet over spoonful of the sauce Put a large pot of salted
taste for salt and pepper.
medium heat, saute the from the bottom of the water on to boil.
Finish cooking the far
pancetta in the oil, stirring pan and a sprinkling of Stem the shiitake and
falle u ntil it's just tender,
often, until it' s crisp and the remaining Pecorino. oyster mushrooms and
about 1 1 minutes total.
browned, about 8 minutes. thinly slice the caps. Heat
Drain and put back in the
Transfer the pancetta to 2 Tbs. of the oil in a large
pasta pot. Pour the broth
a plate lined with paper skillet over medium-high
and mushrooms over the
towels. Raise the heat to heat for 1 minute. Add the
pasta and stir well. Serve
medium high, add the sliced mushrooms, season
immediately in bowls with
onion and chile flakes, sea with salt and pepper, and
a generous sprinkling of
son with salt, and cook, cook, tossing occasionally,
the Parmigiano.
u ntil soft, 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer to a plate.
Add the remaining 2 Tbs.
oil and the shallots to the
o
o
Orecchiette with Cara mel ized Garlic, Pa ppa rdelle with S h r i m p & Z ucch i n i
Sausage & B roccol i Serves two to three.
Serves four. 2 medium zucchini, shrimp, seasoned with
1 0 oz. broccoli crowns, browns and is just cooked washed and trimmed salt and pepper, in
cut into 1 %-inch florets through, about 6 minutes. 6 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 1 112 tablespoons oil until
Y4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Transfer to a plate.
3/4 lb. large shrimp,
firm and pink, 2 to 3 min-
:Y4 lb. sweet Italian peeled, deveined, utes. Transfer the shrimp
Put the pasta i n the water. rinsed, and patted dry
sausage, skin ned and to a plate. Lower the heat
0
crumbled into 1 -inch Reduce the heat under Kosher salt and freshly
to medium, add the re-
pieces the skillet to medium low; ground black pepper
maining 4 V2 Tbs. oil and
3 cloves garlic, very add the remaining 2 Tbs. A Y-shaped peeler 2 cloves garlic, smashed
and peeled the garlic, and cook,
thinly sliced oil and the garlic. Season is perfect for making
% I b. dried pappardelle swirling the pan, until the
Kosher salt and freshly with salt and cook, flipping
Y4 tsp. crushed red chile
strips of zucchini;
ground black pepper garlic browns and the oil
the pieces occasionally, press hard to get
8 oil-packed sun-dried flakes is fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes.
until they start to brown,
thicker strips. A 2 tsp. fresh lemon juicej
tomatoes, drained and 3 to 4 minutes. Raise the Put the pasta in the water.
cut into thin strips mandoline also more to taste Transfer all but 1 Tbs.
heat to high, drain the
1 Tbs. chopped fresh works well. 1 5 fresh basil leaves,
broccoli, and add it to the of the oil to a small bowl.
thyme torn into large pieces
Raise the heat u nder the
% lb. dried orecchiette
skillet, along with the 2% oz. thinly sliced
sausage. Cook until every- prosciutto, cut
skillet to high, add the
(or penne)
thing is heated through, crosswise into chile flakes, and pile in the
1 Tbs. fresh lemon ju icej
more to taste about 1 minute. Stir in the %-inch-wide strips zucchini strips. Season
3 Tbs. grated Parmigiano sun-dried tomatoes and with salt and pepper and
Reggianoj more for thyme. Put a large pot of salted saute until the strips
serving Finish cooking the water on to boil. begin to soften (but don't
3 sca llions (whites and pasta until it's just tender, Using a vegetable let them turn mushy),
greens), thin ly sliced about 1 0 minutes total. peeler (preferably a sharp, 1 to 2 minutes. Discard
Reserve 1 cup of the Y-shaped one), gently the garlic cloves.
Put a large pot of salted pasta water. Drain the peel and discard the dark Finish cooking the
water on to boil. Fill a pasta and add it to the green skin of the zucchini. pappardelle until it ' s just
large bowl with cold skillet with the broccol i . Pressing as hard as you tender, about 5 minutes
water. Blanch the broccoli Raise the heat to high and can, continue to "peel" total. Drain and add to the
in the boiling water u ntil toss well for 3 0 seconds. each zucchini lengthwise shrimp, along with the
Y2 %
it softens to a tender If the pasta appears d ry, to make wide strips about zucchini, lemon juice, and
crunch, 1 to 2 minutes. add cup of the reserved inch thick, rotating the reserved garlic oil. Toss
Transfer it to the bowl of pasta water. Stir in the zucchini as you go. gently. Stir in the basil
cold water. lemon juice, Parmigiano, Discard the squared-off and the prosciutto, taste
0
Heat 2 Tbs. of the oil i n a n d scall ions. A dd more seed cores. for salt and pepper, and
a large skillet over medium- salt, pepper, or lemon In a large skillet over serve immediately.
high heat for 1 minute. juice to taste. Serve imme- high heat, saute the
Add the sausage and diately, sprinkled with
saute, stirring, until it more Parmigiano.

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special section: quick & delicious pastas

FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO COOK

thanksgiving how-to ...

Share the tropical fruit flavors

Each location delivers distinct

A taste of the wine.

www.kJ.com Kllfldiili-JaCkSOn Winery

8 Menus: a plan for the big meal

26 Wine: what goes with turkey?

Holiday Basics & Turkey Roasting

visit our web site: w ww .finecooking.com

46 DINNER WITH FRIENDS 98G

51 Quickly Braise Beef, Pork, or Chicken

Swiss Chard Sautes

58 Vegetable Gratins on the Side

62 A Foolproof Method for Tarte Tatin

66 Using Up the Turkey

74 Great Pumpkin Desserts

Photos: Scott Phillips

Prepare for your Erneril Lagasse

Diplome in 9 or 18 months, The Freezer to ouen to table to dishwasher -

months, 1 O-week certificates, 3 and

American Vintagl' \Vinl' Biscuits

Master Degrees In the

"Provence Down Under", �T HE�

KltchenAI'" BRAun KRUPS Culsl nart-

READERSERVICE NO. 118 READERSERVICE NO. 148

Roast Turkey & Pan Gra vy, pp. 81-82

right, but feel free to customize it-try swapping the

and laid-back entertaining, so we've made a few

Weeknight Pasta Supper Comforting Fall Friday Night with Friends

8 FINE C O O K I N G Photo: Scott Phillips

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