SHANTO-MARIAM UNIVERSITY OF

CREATIVE TECHNOLOGY
Department of Fashion design and Technology
Department of Apparel Manufacturing Management & Technology

7TH SEMESTER

Module Title: Industrial Garment Washing, Dyeing, Printing

& Finishing- Knit and Woven

Module Code: TEX 3105

Module Leader:

Engr. A. H. M. Asif Kamal

Module Teacher:

Engr. Shuvra Goswami

Engr. Lablu Miah
Engr. Reashad Bin Kabir
Engr. A. H. M. Asif Kamal

Updated On: 20th January, 2018

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SHANTO-MARIAM UNIVERSITY OF
CREATIVE TECHNOLOGY
Department of Fashion design and Technology
Department of Apparel Manufacturing Management & Technology

7TH SEMESTER

Module Title: Industrial Garment Washing, Dyeing, Printing &

Finishing- Knit and Woven

Module Code: TEX 3105

Module Leader:

Engr. A. H. M. Asif Kamal Signature: ……………….

Module Teacher:

1. Engr. Reashad Bin Kabir Signature: ……………….

2. Engr. Lablu Miah Signature: ………………..

3. Engr. A. H. M. Asif Kamal Signature: ………………..

2
 Module Specifications Course: Textile Dyeing, Printing, Washing & Finishing

 Module Title : Industrial Garment Washing, Dyeing, Printing &

Finishing- Knit and Woven
 Module Code : TEX 3105
 Year of Study : 3rd (Semester: 7th)
 Pre-Requisite : All FDT and AMM & AMT textile Modules.
 Contact Hours : 1.5 Hours / Week, Total Classes: 12
 Total Contact Hours : 21 Hours (Lectures 18 Hours + Self Study 3 Hours)
 Credits :2
 Assessment Way : Class Test, Assignment, Mid-Term and Final Examination

Aim:
This Module is intended to student’s knowledge of dyeing, printing, washing and finishing in order
to understand all aspects of textile technology & clothing study.

Objectives:
By the end of the module, Students will be able to:
 Analysis of the different dyeing and printing procedures for fibres, yarns & fabrics.
 Understand the physical properties of fabric properties as affected by dyeing & finishing.
 Understand the concept of color.
 Understand the simple testing methods for fibre, yarn and fabric.
 Understand the washing methods for different garments.

3
Class Contact and Teaching Pattern:
Lectures : 18
Total Hours : 27 (+ 3 Hours Self Study)

Learning Outcomes:

After completion the module, students should be able to:

• Understand the basic principles of dyeing & finishing and their impact on fabric properties
• Understand the need for sample testing and understand a testing specification
• Analyses colours and finishes with respect to the end use.
• Implementation of garments washing.

Mark Distribution

Mid-Term Exam Final Exam

1. Attendance: 05 1. Attendance: 05
2. Class Test: 05 2. Class Test: 05
3.Assignment: 10 3. Assignment: 10
4. Mid-Term Exam: 20 4. Final Exam: 40

Total Marks: 40 Total Marks: 60

Grand Total: 100

Reference Books

 Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fiber

(By E. R. Trotman)

 Fiber to Fabric
(By P. Corbman)

 The Technology of Textile Properties

(By Blackwell Publications)

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 Module Continuous Assessment Timetable

Course: B.A (Honors) in Fashion Design & Technology

 Module Title : Industrial Garment Washing, Dyeing, Printing, Finishing- Knit & Woven.
 Module Code : TEX 3105
 Year of Study : 3rd (Semester: 7th)
 Assessment Way : Class Test, Assignment, Mid-Term and Final Examination

Assessment 1 2 3 4 5 6 Mid-Term Examination 7 8 9 10 11 12 Final Examination

Description
Weeks

20% 40%
Class Test Written Examination Written Examination

5%

Assignment 10%

Class Test 5%

Assignment
10%

All the above Assignments / Class Tests must be NB: 5% is in Class Attendance in Mid-Term
carried out in class unless otherwise stated in the Examination and 5% is in Final Examination.
Written Assignment Brief.

Module Teacher: Reashad Bin Kabir, Lablu Miah

Module Leader: A. H. M. Asif Kamal and Date: 20th January, 2018
A. H. M. Asif Kamal

5
 At a Glance: Lectures Delivery Plan

Module: Industrial Garment Washing, Dyeing, Printing, Module Code: TEX 3105 Contact Hours / Week: 1.5
Finishing- Knit & Woven

Week Lecture Topic (Lecture Title) Assessment Page No

1 1 Introduction to Wet process Technology 7 – 10

2 2 Pretreatment of Textile Wet Processing 11 – 18

3 3 Scouring and Bleaching Assignment Giving 19 – 22

4 4 Textile Dyeing Process Class Test 23 – 27

5 5 Dyeing machinery 28 – 30

6 6 Fabric dyeing (Woven and Knit) Assignment Submission 31 – 36

Mid-Term Examination Week.

7 7 Textile Printing and its application in apparel industry 47 – 53

8 8 Styles & Methods of Textile Printing 47 – 53

9 9 Industrial Garment Washing Assignment Giving 54 – 66

10 10 Application of Garment Washing Processes Class Test 54 – 66

11 11 Textile Finishing for Woven and Knit Fabric 67-73

12 12 Industrial Waste Water Treatment & ETP Assignment Submission 74-80

Final Examination Week.

6
Week: 01
Lecture : 01

Topic: Introduction to Wet Process Technology

Wet Processing: Wet processing is a very a wide subject By this process means those processes
which made the grey fabric as a finished fabric. And this is done by applying different types of
chemicals to the textiles as well as water is applied to wet the materials.
Flow chart of wet process (for woven grey cotton)
Inspection of Grey fabric
↓
Stitching
↓
Shearing & cropping
↓
Singeing
↓
Desizing
↓
Scouring
↓
Bleaching
↓
Mercerizing (Optional)
↓
Dyeing/ Printing
↓
Souring
↓
Washing
↓
Drying
↓
Finishing

7
Flow Chart of Wet Processing for knit grey cotton:

Inspection of Grey:
 To inspect the grey fabrics received from the loom.
 To select the fault free fabric only.

Stitching:
As the grey fabric from the loom is not so long that‟s why for facilitating the wet process the
grey fabrics are stitched.

8
Shearing and cropping:
On the surface of the grey fabric there may remain the protruding ends of warp and weft. Cutting
these protruding ends with the help of scissors or blade is known as shearing and cropping.

Singeing:
To burn the projectile fibres, hairy fibers on the outer surface of the fabric is known as singeing.
By the process of singeing the fabrics become more bright and smooth.

Desizing:
It is a chemical process by which the sized chemicals (mainly starch) from the warp yarn of the
fabric is removed.
Objects: The absorbency of the fabric will be greater.

Scouring:
By the treatment of Alkali, the oil, fats, waxes or other impunities from the fabrics are removed.
This treatment is known as scouring.
Objects:
 Absorbency of the fabrics is greater.
 Fabric is made clean.
 Fabrics will be suitable for the next process.

Bleaching:
It is the process of removing the natural coloring matters from the fabrics.
Object:
Fabrics become permanently white.

Souring:
Souring is the process of neutralizing the fabric which is treated by the help of Alkali and is
neutralized with the help of Acid.

Washing:
Normally after each of the processes the fabrics are washed with hot or cold water.

9
Drying:
The main objective of dryer machine is to dry the wet fabric.

Mercerizing: The process in which the fabrics are treated with caustic Soda solution at the room
temperature in a pressurized condition is known as mercerizing.
Object:
 To make the fabric more lustrous.
 To make the fabric stronger.

The General theory of dyeing:

Dyeing is the process of coloring textile materials by immersing them in an aqueous
solution of dye, called dye liquor. Normally the dye liquor consists of dye, water and
auxiliary. To improve the effectiveness of dyeing, heat is applied to the dye liquor.
The general theory of dyeing explains the interaction between dye, fibre, water and dye
auxiliary. It explains-

1) Forces of repulsion: which are developed between the dye molecules & water.

2) Forces of attraction: which are developed between the dye molecules & fiber.
The forces are responsible for the dye molecules leaving the aqueous dye liquor and
entering & attaching themselves to the polymers of the fibre. First one is performed by
the forces of repulsion & the second is performed by the forces of attraction.

The Basic Dyeing Method:

80 c Soda

30min -60min

Salt Drop

Room Temp

1. Material
2. Dyestuff
3. Auxiliaries
Fig- The dyeing curve

10
Week : 02
Lecture : 02

Topic: Pretreatment of Textile Wet Processing.

Singeing
The verb „singe‟ literally means „to burn superficially‟. Technically, singeing refers to the
burning-off of. Loose fibres not firmly bound into the yarn and/or fabric structure.
Singeing is an important part of pretreatment. This is the burning off of protruding fiber
ends from the surface of the fabric. If not done properly, unclear print patterns, mottled
fabric surfaces, and pilling results.

 Loose yarns not firmly bound into the fabric structure;

 Protruding fibre ends sticking out of the textile yarns and/or fabrics.

Textiles materials are most commonly singed in woven or knitted fabric form or in yarn
form.

Singeing

Objectives & Advantages of Singeing

 Singeing of a fabric is done in order to obtain a clean fabric surface which allows
the structure of the fabric to be clearly seen.
 Fabrics, which have been singed, soil less easily than un-singed fabrics.
 The risk of pilling, especially with synthetics and their blends, is reduced in case
of singed fabrics.
 Singed fabrics allow printing of fine intricate patterns with high clarity and detail.

11
  The risk of skittery dyeings with singed articles dyed in dark shades is
considerably reduced, as randomly protruding fibres are removed in singeing
which could cause diffused reflection of light.

Necessity of Singeing in Textile

Singeing of textile materials is necessary for te following reasons:

 Cotton materials are valued for their smooth appearance. After the formation of
fabric it has a fuzzy or hairy appearance due to projecting fibers, thus affecting
the luster and smoothness cotton is known for.
 Unsigned fabrics are soiled easily
 The protruding fibers obstruct the subsequent dyeing and printing process
 Goods which are to be mercerized are signed to maximize the luster
 In fabrics of polyester and cellulosic fiber blends singeing is the best method to
control pilling, sometimes double singeing is done to minimize the pilling.

Singeing Process
Singeing process is as follows:

 To produce a smooth surface finish on fabrics made from staple fibers first the
fabric surfaces are brushed lightly to raise the unwanted fiber ends.
 Then the fabric is singed with or passed over heated copper plates or open gas
flames. The fiber ends burn off.
 The fabric is moved very rapidly, and only the fiber ends are destroyed.
 As soon as the fabric leaves the singeing area, it enters a water bath or desizing
bath. This stops any singeing afterglow or sparks that might damage the cloth.

Precaution During Singeing

Some of the precautions to be taken in considerations during singeing:-

1. The fabric to be singed should be dry as wet fabric tend to scorch more readily
than dry.
2. Uneven singeing may cause streaks on fabric or bubbles when the fabric is
finished.
3. Improper singeing may lead to loss of 75 % loss in tensile strength loss in warp
direction.
4. The fabric should not contain any acid releasing salt,which may release acid on
heating and tender the fabric.
5. Stopping the machines may cause bars on the fabrics.
6. Singeing may cause hardening of the size thus leading to difficulty in its removal.
7. Possibility of thermal damage to temperature sensitive fabrics.
8. The burning characteristics of fibers must be taken into account when this process
is applied, as heat-sensitive fibers melt, forming tiny balls on the surface of the
fabric. These balls interfere with dye absorption, so that, as a general rule, heat
sensitive fibers would be singed after dyeing or printing.

12
Desizing

Desizing is done in order to remove the size from the warp yarns of the woven fabrics.
Warp yarns are coated with sizing agents prior to weaving in order to reduce their
frictional properties, decrease yarn breakages on the loom and improve weaving
productivity by increasing weft insertion speeds. The sizing material present on the warp
yarns can act as a resist towards dyes and chemicals in textile wet processing. It must,
therefore, be removed before any subsequent wet processing of the fabric.

Objects of Desizing:
1. To remove the starch material from the fabric.
2. To increase the absorbency power of the fabric.
3. To increase the affinity of the fabric to the dry chemicals.
4. To make the fabric suitable for the next process.
5. To increase the luster of the fabric increase of dyeing and printing.

13
Factors of Size Removal Efficiency:
The factors, on which the efficiency of size removal depends, are as follows:

 Type and amount of size applied

 Viscosity of the size in solution
 Ease of dissolution of the size film on the yarn
 Nature and the amount of the plasticizers
 Fabric construction
 Method of desizing, and
 Method of washing-off

Methods of Desizing:
1. Hydrolytic Method
2. Oxidative Method

1. Hydrolytic Method

 Rot Stepping
 Alkali Stepping
 Acid Stepping
 Enzymatic Stepping

2. Oxidative Method

 Bromide Desizing
 Chlorite Desizing
 Ammonium per Sulphate Desizing

14
Week: 03
Lecture : 03

Topic: Scouring and Bleaching

Scouring:

Natural fabrics contain oils, and waxes together with other impurities The garments, fabrics or
yarns may contain oil and adventitious dirt collected during manufacturing. The term scouring
applies to the removal of these impurities.

The term “Scouring” applies to the removal of impurities such as oil, wax, gums, soluble
impurities and solid dirt commonly found in textile material and produce a hydrophilic & clean
cloth.

By the treatment of Alkali, the oil, fats, waxes or other impurities from the fabrics are removed.
This treatment is known as Scouring.

The Process consists essentially of treatment with alkali, with or without detergent. When soap is
used a good supply of water is essential.
Objectives of scouring:

1. To remove natural impurities like oil, wax, fatty materials as well as added impurities of
essentially hydrophobic character as completely as possible.
2. To transfer the fabric hydrophobic to hydrophilic.
3. To increase absorbency of textile material i.e. fabric
4. Absorbency of the fabrics be greater.
5. Fabric is made clean.
6. Fabric will we suitable for the next process.

Name of Scouring machines:

1. High/ low pressure kier boiler ( For cotton)

2. Ge baur‟s kier.
3. Zet scouring m/c ( For wool)
4. Rotary Dolly scouring m/c (Knitted fabric).
5. J-box ( Cotton)
6. Horizontal kier.
7. Jackson kier.
8. Harrow rack m/c (For wool)
9. Levian than scouring m/c (For wool).

15
Scouring process of cotton:
Generally there are two principle methods of scouring are used
Ordinary
Horizontal

1) Kier boiling process

high temperature

Ordinary

Vertical

High temperature
2) Scouring in the j box

Bleaching:

Bleach is a chemical that removes colors or whitens, often via oxidation. Common
chemical bleaches include household "chlorine bleach", a solution of approximately 3-6%
sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl), and "oxygen bleach", which contains hydrogen peroxide
or a peroxide-releasing compound such as sodium perborate or sodium percarbonate. To
bleach something is to apply bleach, sometimes as a preliminary step in the process of
dyeing. Bleaching powder is calcium hypochlorite.

Objects:

1. Destruction of natural coloring matter from the fibre

2. To impart a pure permanent & basic white effect to the fibre
3. To obtain permanent white color pf the fabric.
4. To increase absorbency of textile material for dyeing printing etc operation.
5. To make the fabric permanently white.
6. To make the fabric suitable for the next process

Factors which affect Bleaching

1. Concentration of the chemical.
2. Material and liquor ratio.
3. PH of the liquor.
4. Temperature of the liquor
5. Time of the treatment

16
The most common bleaching processes are

1. Hydrogen per oxide bleaching for 100% cotton

2. Hypochlorite bleaching for 100% COTTON
3. Sodium chloride bleaching only used for specialist sector & only for polyester &
cotton blend.

Methods of bleaching

1. Bleaching in kier
2. bleaching in j box
3.
Bleaching in kier

The simplest cotton bleaching method with hydrogen per oxide is in kier. When the
conventional kier is used there is the risk of catalytically decomposition of the peroxide
caused by the rust in the kier. So sodium silicate should be used to prevent the wastage
of hydrogen per oxide. The circulation of liquor may be provided either by centrifugal
pumps or by a steam injector.

Standard or general or typical recipe

Magnesium sulphate= 1oz per 100 galloon of water

Sodium silicate= 2 to 3%
Caustic soda= 0.3 to 0.8%
Soda ash = 0.6 to 1%
Hydrogen per oxide (35%) = 3 to 5%
Hydrogen per oxide (50%) = 2.5 to 4%
Wetting agent= as required

17
Working principle
The chemicals are dissolved in a separate mixing tank

Transfer to the kier

Required water added to fill one third of the kier

Materials are feed (If possible liquor to continue)

Water added & kier is half filled

Steam turned on to raise temperature from 40 to 60

Loading complete & water added for complete immersion

Raise the temperature to 70 (at this stage steam+ circulation turned off for 10 minutes)

Raised the temperature to 80 (at this stage steam+ circulation turned off for 10 minutes)

Raised the temperature to 110 (at which beaching is completed in between 1 to 3 hour)
Precaution:

 Kier should be clean

 Material should be packed evenly
 No air pocket should be formed
 Complete immersion of the fabric needed
 After boiling the liquor should be removed in absence of water
 Before starting all the joining parts should be checked
 Fabric should always kept under scouring solution

18
Mercerization

Mercerization is a finishing treatment of cotton with a strong caustic alkaline solution in

order to improve the luster, hard and other properties, was names after its discoverer,
John Mercer, and has been in use for sometime. It has been seeing an increase in
application recently.

Effect of Mercerization:

1. Improve Luster.
2. Increase ability to absorb dye.
3. Improve reaction with a verity of chemicals.
4. Improve stability of form.
5. Improve strength/elongation.
6. Improve smoothness.
7. It has been shown that the increase in the luster occurs because of an effect.
8. The cotton fiber do convoluted.
9. The cross-sectional shape changes.

Factors of Mercerizing:

In mercerizing followings are important:

1. Twaddle
2. Temperature
3. Tension
4. Time

Twaddle (Concentration of NaOH):

If the concentration of NaOH is increased above 56oTw improvement in luster will be

attained but if it is decrease below 48o Tw. The quality of luster will begin to be
adversely affected.

Temperature:

High degree of luster is attained at temperature 18-20oC. As the temperature is increased

the quality of luster is adversely affected but on lowering the temperature no
improvement in the luster is obtained.

19
Tension:
For acquiring better luster the material must be stretch to its original dimension (both in
warp and weft direction during mercerization). If the material is allowed to shrink during
mercerizing then quality of luster will be impaired on the other hand if the material is
stretched more no improvement in luster is achieved.

Time:
The optimum time for mercerizing is 30-60 seconds by increasing the duration of time no
applicable improvement in the quality of mercerization can be achieved but if the time
limit is less than 30 seconds in the quality of mercerization will be improved.

20
Week : 04
Lecture : 04

Topic: Textile Dyeing Process

Dyes:

Dyes are colored, unsaturated and organic chemical compound capable of giving a color to a
substrate (a textile) i.e. coloring or dyeing it.
Dyes are soluble or dispersed in its medium of application (usually textiles) and are designed to
be absorbed by that medium.

Pigments:

Pigments are insoluble coloring matter, mostly of mineral origin have been used from the earliest
times for the coloration of metal, wood, stone, other surfaces as paints in association with oil or
water.
The pigments are applied on textiles by means of binding agents.
Though pigments are insoluble in a medium but which can be mechanically dispersed in that
medium to modify its color & light scattering properties.

Difference between dyes & pigments:

Dyes Pigments
1. Most of the dyes are soluble in water and 1. Pigments are mostly insoluble but in some
some are insoluble. Water solubility 70% special cases are soluble. 100%water insoluble
.
2. Most of the dyes are organic compounds and 2. Most of the pigments are inorganic mineral
some are metallic matters.

3. All types of fabric cannot be dyed by 3. Pigments can dye all types of fabric.
dyestuffs.

4. No binding agent is required 4. Binding agent is required

5. Costly as they prepared chemically 5. Cheap as they found from mineral origin.
6. Dyes are absorbed by fabric. 6. Pigments diffuse on fabric surface.

7. dyes are soluble coloring matter 7. Pigments are insoluble coloring matter

21
Classification of dyes:

1. Physical form
2. Application form
3. chemical form
Physical Form

Powder form Paste form Lump form Solution form

Fine powder Grain Form Ultra fine

Application Method

Dye Pigment

Vat Azoic Pathalo Cynin Mineral

Ready made dye Ingrain dye

Azoic dye Oxidation color Mineral color

Water soluble Water insoluble

Direct Acid Reactive Disperse Vat Sulpher

Dye dye dye dye dye dye

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Different Dyes Which Are Used To Dyeing The Fabric & Yarn

Dyeing Fabric using different dyestuff is the most common things that every Textile
Engineer should have to know. There are many kinds of dyes used to dye fabric.
Maximum of them are suitable for fabric dye and yarn dyeing.

Dye staffs used to fabric dyeing are:

Direct dyes:

These dye staffs are generally sodium salt of sulphonic acid. They have direct affinity to
cellulosic fibre. They are water soluble and needs salt addition in the dye bath. Should be
applied at alkaline or neutral condition. Poor fastness to wash but cheaper for fabric
dyeing.

Basic dyes:

These are generally ammonium, sulphonium or auxonium salt. Famous for bright shade
during dyeing fabric. Water soluble and application on cotton and other cellulosic fibre
and leathers.

Acid dyes:

chemically acid dyes belong to various subclasses such as nitro nitroso, monoazo, diazo,
xanthance azine, quinoline, anthraquinone etc. they are water soluble and have affinity
towards wool, silk and nylon fibre dyeing. They are applied to the fibres through neutral
or acid dye bath.

Mordant dyes:

They are the oldest natural dyes. They have no affinity to textiles but can be applied to
cellulose or protein fibres in order to dyeing fabric when they have been mordent
previously with metallic salt. These dye staffs are capable of combining with metallic
oxides to form insoluble colour on the fibre.

Sulphur dyes:

These are complex organic compounds containing sulphur. They are insoluble in water
but soluble under reduced condition. They are usually applied cotton for cheaper shades,
have high wet fastness but poor light fastness during dyeing fabric.

23
Azoic dyes:

These are not ready made dyes. Fibers are firstly impregnated with a coupling component
like beta nepthol and then combined with a diazotized base to produce insoluble dye
staffs into the fibre. They are mainly used on cotton but also can be used to dyeing wool
silk and fur.

Vat dyes:

These are very fast color on cotton and insoluble in water. They are reduced by strong
reducing agent to pr9oduce leuco vat and at this stage they are soluble in water. After
impregnation they are again oxidized to their original insoluble form.

Reactive dyes:

These dye staffs directly combines with cellulose by chemical bonding i.e. covalent
bonds are produced. They have excellent wash fastness. Mainly used on cotton dyeing .
can also be applied on wool, silk and nylon dyeing. Dyeing is carried out in an alkaline
bath.

Disperse dyes:

These dye staffs are very suitable for synthetic fibres for example polyester, nylon,
acrylic, cellulosic acetate, etc. high temperature dyeing methods are suitable for these dye
staffs but carrier dyeing method can also be applied.In the above mentioned dyestuff, the
Reactive Dyestuff is mostly used in today‟s Textile Industry.

Application of dye on the basis of fiber structure:

1. Direct dye:
 Man made fiber (viscose rayon)
 Natural fiber (cotton)

2. Reactive dye:
 Man made fibre (Synthetic, nylon)
 Natural cellulose
 Natural protein

3. Acid dye:
 Man made fibre (Synthetic, nylon)
 Natural fibre (mohair, silk, wool)

4. Disperse dye:
 Man made ester cellulose (acetate)

24
  Synthetic fibre (polyester specially)

5. Vat dye:
 Man made cellulose fibre
 Natural cellulose fibre

6. Azoic dye:
 Man made fibre (Synthetic, nylon)
 Natural cellulose fibre (cotton)

Stripping:

Stripping is the way of removing unwanted shade from the dyed fabric. Stripping for
direct dye is done by belching process with the help of sodium hypochlorite solution with
sodium hydrosulphite.

Topping:

The stripped material whenever dyed is known as topping.

25
Week : 05
Lecture: 05

Topic: Dyeing Machines

Dyeing M/C: The M/C which is used to dye fiber, yarn or fabric in different forms is called
dyeing M/C. The heating arrangement must be controlled in different parts of the machine
according to material which will be dyed. It should provide sufficient movement of the liquor to
penetrate uniformly into every part of the goods. The movement should not be so vigorous that it
will damage the material. All moving parts and electric parts should be protected.

Classification of dyeing M/C

Dyeing is carried by three ways-

1. Fiber form.
2. Yarn Form
3. Fabric Form.

Classification of dyeing m/c s according to dyeing process

1. Open dyeing m/c Process. (Disadvantages more than advantages)
2. Enclosed dyeing m/c process (More advantages)

Difference between open & enclosed dyeing M/C:

Open dyeing M/C Enclosed dyeing M/C
1. Dyeing process is Carried on low 1. Dyeing is done at high temperature
dyeing temperature.
2. Steam or Vapor exits from the m/c 2. As steam can not exit, so it is
that‟s why it is un-hygienic for the labors. hygienic
3. Dye liquor becomes Vapor very 3. Not costly.
easily, so it is very costly.
4. It takes more time to dye. 4. It takes least of time.
5. Naturally, dyeing of continuous 5. Discontinuous process of dyeing
process is done. is done.

26
6. Very rapidly air is moisture. 6. Not so rapidly.
7. Very extensively used. 7. Not extensively used.

Classification of dyeing machine depending on Material and Liquors movement:

1. Material moves but liquor does not circulate.
e.g.: Jigger
2. Liquor circulates but a material does not move.
e.g.: All packages dyeing m/c.
3. Both material and liquor circulate.
e.g.: Jet dyeing m/c.

27
Yarn Dyeing:
Yarn dyeing is slightly difference from woven or knit dyeing. Dyed yarns are used for
making stripe knit or woven fabrics or solid dyed yarn fabric or in sweater
manufacturing. Yarns are dyed in package form or hank form by yarn dyeing process.
Dyeing process can be vary depending on the individual procedure of a textile engineer
or a dyeing master. Now I will give typical flow chart of yarn dyeing.

Yarn dyeing

28
Process flow chart for 100% Cotton Yarn(Dark/Medium/Light shade):

Pretreatment
Batch loaded
↓
Demineralization (50˚C, 20 min; PH=4.5)
↓
Scouring & bleaching (100˚C×40 min.)
↓
Drain
↓
Rinse
↓
Drain
↓
Neutralization with acid (50°C ×20 min)
↓
Hot Wash with peroxide killer (60˚C,20 min.)
↓
Drain

Dyeing
↓
Leveling agent & Salt (60° × 20 min; PH=6)
↓
Color dosing (60°C×20 min.)
↓
Run time = 10 min. (60°C)
↓
Color migration (80°C × 20 min.)
↓
Cooling (60°C)
↓
Level Check
↓
Soda dosing (60°C×30 min.)
↓
Dyeing run (Dark-60°C×60 min;Medium-60°C×40 min;Light-60°C×
30 min)
↓
Dyeing sample check
↓
(If Ok)
↓
Drain
29
 After-treatment
↓
Rinse (with cold Water)
↓
Neutralization after dyeing (50°C×20 min.)
↓
Drain
↓
Soaping (Hot wash)
↓
Drain
↓
Rinse
↓
Add finishing chemical(60°C×20 min)
↓
Drain
↓
Unload

Process Flow Chart of Hank Processing:

Process Flow Chart of Hank processing

30
Week :06
Lecture:06
Topic: Fabric Dyeing (Woven and Knit)

FLOWCHART OF WOVEN FABRIC DYEING

GRAY FABRIC INSPECTION

↓
STITCHING & BRUSHING
↓
SINGEING
↓
DSIZING
↓
SCOURING
↓
BLEACHING MERCERISING
↓
DYEING ← → PRINTING
↓ ↓
FINISHING

31
Dyeing Process by Jigger Dyeing Machine:

The dyeing process on jigger is regarded as a series of intermittent padding operation

followed by dwelling periods on the main roller , during which the dyeing action and
diffusion takes place. The factors controlling the rate of dye absorption are:

1. The amount of interstitial dye liquor retained in the interstices of the fabric
weaves.
2. The exhaustion of the interstitial liquor in the dwell period between successive
immersions.
3. The degree of interchange of liquor during one immersion (interchange factor).

In the dyeing on jigger machines the cloth revolves on two main rollers , The open-
width fabric passes from one roller through the dye bath at the bottom of the machine and
then onto a driven take-up roller on the other side. When all the fabric has passed through
the bath, the direction is reversed. Each passage is called an end. Dyeing always involves
an even number of ends. The dye bath has one or more guide rollers, around which the
cloth travels, and during this immersion achieves the desired contact with the dye liquor.
During this passage the fabric picks up adequate quantity of dye liquor, excess of which
is drained out but still a good quantity is held in the fabric. During rotation of rollers this
dye penetrates and diffuses into the fabric. The real dyeing takes place not in the dye
liquor but when the cloth is on the rollers, since only a very small length of fabric is in
the dye bath and major part is on the rollers. Therefore the speed of cloth during
immersion in dye liquor has a very little effect on percentage of shade produced.

32
Some critical problems related to the conventional jigger dyeing machines (which are
minimized in the modern day machines) The major problems are side-to-centre color
variations, called listing, and lengthways color variations, called ending.

Other problems are

 Temperature control from side-to-side and end-to-end of the roll

 Tension control from end-to-end
 Constant speed control from end-to-end
 Prevention of creases
 Prevention of air

Limitations of Jigger Dyeing

1. Jigs exert considerable lengthwise tension on the fabric and are more suitable for
the dyeing of woven than knitted fabrics.
2. In textile preparation due to the swelling and dissolution of size, this makes the
fabric slippery and unstable in roll form.
3. The low liquor ratio makes washing-off difficult.
4. There is little mechanical action in a jig machine and it is less suitable where
vigorous scouring is required before dyeing.
5. Moiré effects or water marks may arise on some acetate and nylon fabrics because
of pressure flattening the structure of the rolled fabric.

33
Reactive Dye

In a reactive dye a chromophore contains a substituent that is activated and allowed to

directly react to the surface of the substrate.

Properties:

1. It is soluble in water.
2. Normally used for dyeing cellulose and protein fibre.
3. All type of shade is available.
4. Dyeing process is carried or alkaline condition.
5. Wet fastness is good.
6. Very bright in shade.
7. Fobbing fastness is good.
8. Comparatively cheap.
9. Very simple dyeing procedures.

Classification of dyes according to Reactivity:

1. High Reactivity : In this type of dyes, weak alkali (NaHCO3) sodium Bi-
carbonate is used
2. Moderate Reactivity: Here medium alkali Na2Co3 – Sodium carbonate is used.
3. Low Reactivity : Here Strong alkali (NaoH) is used Classification of dyes

according to Temperature:
i. Cold brand (having high reactivity)
ii. Hot brand (having Low reactivity)
Some Commercial Dyes:
Trade Name Brand Name Trade Name Brand Name
Procion – M ICI Remazol Holchest
Cibacron Drimasine Reaction Sandoz
Procion – h ICE Cibageigy Levafiz Fthylene Baye

34
Knit Dyeing Machines:

Winch Dyeing Machine:

A dyeing machine consisting essentially of a dye vessel fitted with a driven winch (
usually above the liquor level) which rotates and draws a length of fabric, normally
joined end to end, through the liquor.

Winch dyeing machine

Winch dyeing machine is a rather old dyeing machine for fabrics in rope form with
stationary liquor and moving material. The machine operates at a maximum temperature
of 95-98°C. The liquor ratio is generally quite high (1:20-1:40). Winch dyeing machines
are a low cost design that is simple to operate and maintain, yet versatile in application
proving invaluable for preparation, washing or after treatments as well as the dyeing
stage itself. In all winch dyeing machines a series of fabric ropes of equal length are
immersed in the dye bath but part of each rope is taken over two reels or the winch itself.
The rope of fabric is circulated through the dye bath being hauled up and over the winch
throughout the course of the dyeing operation. Dyestuff and auxiliaries may be dosed
manually or automatically in accordance with the recipe method.

35
 A winch dyeing machine

Description and Dyeing Method on Winch Dyeing

Machine
The basic principle of all winch dyeing machines is to have a number of loops or ropes of
the fabric in the dye bath, these ropes are of equal length , which are mostly immersed in
the liquor in the bath. The upper part of each rope runs over two reels which are mounted
over dye bath. At the front of the machine , above the top of the dye liquor , is a smaller
reel, which is called jockey or fly roller.

The fly roller remain free wheeling along with fabric rope. At the back of winch tank is
the winch wheel, which pulls the fabric rope from the dye bath over the jockey reel for
dropping in the dye bath for immersion. From the dropped location , the fabric rope
travels back . to be lifted and fed to winch wheel.

The dyeing process on winch dyeing machines is based on higher M:L as compared with
other dyeing machines. The process is conducted with very little tension . The total
dyeing time is lengthier as compared to other machines.

Advantages of Winch Dyeing Machine

1. Construction and operation of winch are very simple.
2. The winch dyeing machines are suitable for types of wet processing operations from
desizing to softening.
3.The winch dyeing machine is suitable for practically all types of fabrics ,which can
withstand creasing in rope form processing.
4. Thr tension exerted on winch is less than jigger dyeing machine, the material thus dyed
is with fuller hand.
5. The appearance of the dyed goods is clean and smooth on winch dyeing machines.

36
Limitations of Winch Dyeing Machine
1. Batch dyeing operations needs trimming, sewing, opening out the rope, loading and
unloading for individual lots separately.
2. Since several lengths of fabric are run over the winch reel into the liquor and sewn end
to end, Continuous length processing is not possible in a single batch.
3. Fabric is processed in rope form which may lead to crease marks, particularly in heavy
woven, thin and light synthetics.
4. Most of the machine works under atmospheric conditions.

37
Week: 07
Lecture : 07

Topic:-Textile Printing and its application in Apparel Industry

Textile Printing:

Textile printing is the localized application of dyes and pigment by any method
which can produce particular effect of color and motives

Differences between dyeing and Printing:

Dyeing Printing
There is no localized application of There is localized application of dyes or
dyes and pigment pigments on fabric
Color is applied in form of solution Color is applied in forms of thick paste
Materials are generally wetted by The material are spot dyed and ma not
immersing into dye bath be required to complete wet
NO need of adhesive Printing adhesive are used
Steaming is not required on dyed Steaming is essential in printing
material material
Liquor ratio is more, hence the material Liquor ratio is less hence the material
can‟t be easily dried can be easily dried

38
Flow chart of Printing:

Textile printing has various stages or steps. Flow chart of Textile

printing is given blow:

Preparation of fabric to be printed

(Singeing, desizing, scouring, bleaching)

Preparation of the printing paste

(Dyes+ thickener+ chemicals)

Making an impression of the printing paste on the fabric

(Actual printing)

Drying of the printing fabric

Steaming the printed fabric

After treatment

Printing ingredients

Printing Ingredients:

 Dyestuff or pigments: Vat, reactive, direct

 Wetting Agent: Olive oil Turkey red oil etc.
 Thickener: Starch, Gum, CMC, Na-alginate
 Defoaming agents: emulsifying pine oil, silicon etc.
 Carriers and swelling agent: Benzyl alcohol.

Thickener:
Thickener is the main ingredient of a print paste. It is a thick substance which
imparts stickness to the print paste.

Objects of thickener

 To maintain a sharp outline of printed design

 To prevent bleeding and spreading of color
 To prevent the premature reactions among the various chemicals of the
print paste
 To hold the ingredients of the print paste on surface of fabric and in print
paste.

39
The thickener generally used in Textile printing

 Gum tragacanth
 Gum Arabic
 Starch tragacanth
 British Gum
 Locust Beam Gum
 Carboxy methyl cellulose (CMC)

Factors to be considered to select or choice of a thickener:

 Types or quality of a material to be printed

 Print paste stability
 Printing methods and styles
 Preparation & removal of thickener
 Cost

Function of ingredients:

Urea: Urea helps to bring dye into solution: It also helps to bring out the humidity
required for fixing during the subsequent steaming

Reverse Salt G: It is a mild oxidizing agent, used to prevent a possible reduction

of the dye.

Na- alginate: Acts as a thickener

Soda ash: create alkaline medium to perform reaction between dye and fibre i.e.
fixation

40
Week: 08
Lecture: 08

Topic: Styles & Methods of Textile Printing

Printing Styles:

Printing styles are classified as direct, discharge or resist

Direct Printing:

This is the most common approach for applying a color pattern. In this style of Printing,
colored pastes are printed directly on the cloth and any design may be produced. If done
on a white fabric it is called overprinting.

Discharge Printing:

The fabric is first dyed with background color and then printed with a chemical that will
destroy the color in the designed areas. Usually a paste contains a reducing agent or
reagents to print the design. After Printing, the fabrics need to be washed thoroughly to
eliminate the by-products of the reaction. This method of discharge Printing is thoroughly
satisfactory, only if properly done.

Resist Printing:

The cloth is first printed with a resist plate, a resinous substance that cannot be penetrated
when the fabric is subsequently immersed in a dye. When the cloth is dyed or pigment
padded, only those parts not printed with the resist are dyed. In this resist method, the
durability of the fabric is not affected.

Methods of Textile Printing:

The common method of fabric printing are-
1. Batik printing
2. Block printing.
3. Roller printing
4. Screen Printing.
5. Transfer-Printing.

41
Techniques of Block Printing:

block printing
The fabric to be printed is washed free of starch and soft
bleached if the natural gray of the fabric is not desired.

If dyeing is required as in the case of saris where borders or the

body is tied and dyed it is done before printing.

The fabric is again washed to remove excess dye and dried

thoroughly.

The fabric is stretched over

the printing table and fastened
with small pins. This is an
important stage as there
should be a uniform tension in
the fabric and no ripples.

Color is mixed separately in

another room. Usually
pigment dyes are used for
cotton. You can read more
about dyes at the end of this
page.
Color is kept in a tray on a wheeled wooden trolley with racks
which the printer drags along as he works. On the lower
shelves printing blocks are kept ready.

The tray of color rests on another tray which contains a thick

viscous liquid made from the pigment binder and glue. This
gives the color tray a soft base which helps to spread color
evenly on the wooden block.

Blocks are made of seasoned teak wood by trained craftsmen.

The underside of the block has the design hand carved on it by
the block maker. Each block has a wooden handle and two to
three cylindrical holes drilled into the block for free air passage
and also to allow release of excess printing paste. The new
blocks are soaked in oil for 10-15 days to soften the grains in
the timber.

The printing starts form left to right. The color is evened out in
the tray with a wedge of wood and the block dipped into the
outline color (usually black or a dark color).

42
 When the block is applied to the fabric, it is slammed hard with
the fist on the back of the handle so that a good impression
may register. A point on the block serves as a guide for the
repeat impression, so that the whole effect is continuous and
not disjoined. The outline printer is usually an expert because
he is the one who leads the process. If it is a multiple color
design the second printer dips his block in color again using the
point or guide for a perfect registration to fill in the color. The
third color if required follows likewise. Skill is necessary for
good printing since the colors need to dovetail into the design to
make it a composite whole.
The fabric, after pigment printing is dried out in the sun. This is
part of the fixing process. It is then rolled in wads of
newspapers to prevent the dye from adhering to other layers
and steamed in boilers constructed for the purpose. Silks are
also steamed this way after printing. After steaming, the
material is washed thoroughly in large quantities of water and
dried in the sun, after which it is finished by ironing out single
layers, which fix the color permanently.

A brief description of Dyes

Pigment dyes

Pigment colors are mixed with k erosene and a binder. The

consistency should be just right, for if it is too thick it gives a
raised effect on the material, which spoils the design. Small
plastic buckets with lids are ideal for storing the mixed colors for
a few days. The motif is printed directly on white or light-colored
ground with a variety of pigment colors.

Pigment colors are widely popular today because the process is

simple, the mixed colors can be stored for a period of time,
subtle nuances of colors are possible, and new shades evolve
with the mixing of two or three colors. Also the colors are visible
as one prints and do not change after processing. Colors can
be tested before printing by merely applying it onto the fabric.
The pigment color is made up of tiny particles, which do not
dissolve entirely and hence are deposited on the cloth surface
while rapid dyes and indigo sols penetrate the cloth.
Rapid fast Colors

In this process, the ground color and the color in the design are
printed on white and/or light-colored grounds in one step. The
dyes once mixed for printing have to be used the same day.
Standard colors are black, red, orange, brown and mustard.
Color variation is somewhat difficult and while printing it is not
possible to gauge the quality or depth of color.

43
 Discharge Dyes

These dyes are used if you need to print onto a dark

background. Medium to dark grounds are dyed on fabric with
specially prepared dyestuff . The printing colors then used on
the fabric contain a chemical that interacts with the dye. This
interaction simultaneously bleaches the color from the dyed
ground and prints the desired color on its place. Areas can also
be discharged and left white. The primary advantage of this
process is that vivid and bright colors along with white can be
printed on top of medium and dark grounds.
Napthol / Reactive dyes

As the name suggests, these are two sets of chemicals which

upon reaction produce a third chemical essentially colorful in
nature. Fabric is dyed in one and later printed with the other.
The chemical reaction produces a third color. However, the
biggest drawback of this process is that there are just a few
chemicals available which produce colors upon reaction.
Vegetable / Natural dyes

Historically of great importance, these dyes have acquired even

greater importance now because of their eco-friendly nature.
Bagru Black

This is derived by mixing acidic solution of iron - often rusted

nails/horse shoes etc. with jaggery (country sugar) allowed to
rot for about 10-15 days. Many other natural substances used
for producing dyes are pomegranate skins, bark of mango tree,
vinegar, slaked lime etc.
Bagru Red

This dye is achieved by combining a source material such as

alizarin with alum, the results ranging from pink to deep red.

Indigo Blue

The internationally famous Bagru Blue is obtained from the

indigo bush found throughout India.

44
Screen Printing
Steps before making a screen Printing:
1. Design selection.
2. Screen preparation.
3. Print paste preparation.
4. Printing.
5. Drying and steaming.
6. Washing.

Hand screen printing (Flat Screen)

Material Recovered:
1. Printing table
2. Screens.
3. Bed on the printing table.
4. Back grey.
5. Fabric to be printed.
6. Squeeze
7. Drying System.
8. Hand washing.

Procedure:
1. Printing is carried out on a flat, solid table covered with a layer of felt and a
washable blanket.
2. Fabric movement or shrinkage is avoidable to maintain the design of pattern. The
fabric to be printed is laid on the table and stuck to the blanket directly with water
soluble adhesive; alternatively the fabric is combined with a back Grey.
3. Before printing, the screens must be positioned carefully on the fabric. The area
printed by a screen must fit exactly alongside the adjacent one.
4. Now print paste is taken on the Screen.

45
5. The printing process consists of forcing this viscous print paste thought the open
areas of the screen with a flexible, synthetic, rubber squeeze.
6. The rubber contained in a wooden or metal support is drawn steadily across the
screen at a constant angle and pressure.
7. Then the fabric is dried.

MANUAL

S
C
R
E
E
N
P
R
I
N
T
I
N
G

Advantages:
1. Less investment cost.
2. Not so much dangerous.
3. Less floor space required.
4. Suitable for small scale production.

46
Disadvantages:
1. Slow production.
2. Small Scale production.
3. Fastens properties are not of international standard.
4. It is difficult to maintain even penetration of print.

Factors affecting the amount of print paste passing through the screen:
1. The raster (thread 1cm) of the screen.
2. The function of open area in the screen fabric.
3. The hardness or X-section of squeeze blade.
4. The hardness of the printing table.
5. The squeeze Angle & Pressure.
6. The speed of the squeeze.

Flat bed Screen Printing:

FLAT BED SCREEN

PRINTING

47
Rotary Screen printing:

ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING

Transfer Printing:

BATCH TRANSFER

CONTINUOUS TRANSFER TRANSFER PRINTING

48
Digital Printing:

DIGITAL
PRINTING

Other Methods of Textile Printing:

Heat Transfer Printing:

This is the newest method of printing fabrics by transferring designs to fabric from
special pre-printed paper. Duplex Printing:

The fabric is printed on both sides in Duplex Printing. Thus in this method a clear outline
is produced on both sides of the fabric. The design is applied so skillfully by the Printing
cylinders that the result may be mistaken for a woven design.

Spray Printing:

This method of Printing involves the application of colors from spray guns through
stencils and has limited but occasional profitable use.

Resist Printing: The fabric is dyed with a tannin mordant paste and then the desired areas
to be used for the motif are stripped of the covering, leaving the areas white. The fabric is
then piece "dyed" and some or all of the white areas are colored by this method of
printing.

49
Print-On-Print:

When the discharge or resist methods of Printing are not called for, this procedure is
used. Each color used must have its own color roller and provide clean and clear effect.
Many effects are possible by the use of this method. This is an ideal method with regard
to price and high production. Photographic Printing:

Photographic printing can be transferred to fabric by the use of photo engraved rollers.
Various ways are used to obtain the result, all adapted from color printing on paper. Red,
Yellow and blue, the primary colors are much used to obtain a host of color-effects.

Shadow Printing: Chintz, cretonne, ribbon and some silks are woven with only the warp
printed so as to provide mottled effects when woven with a white or light colored filling.
These indistinct motif fabrics are reversible.

Stipple Printing: Printing of small dotted effects set in among spaces or bare areas of a
printed motif. Used chiefly in novelty effects.

Warp Printing: Warp yarn is printed on a beam and then it is rewound onto a second
beam which is placed in the back of the loom and made ready for the weaving operation.
Warp prints give a mélange or mottled effect when woven with plain filling, white or in
some light color. Rather popular are coverlets, some dress goods, counterpanes,
bedspreads, hangings etc.

50
Week: 09
Lecture: 09

Topic: Industrial Garment Washing

Washing:
The technology which is used to modify the appearance, outlook comfort ability &
fashion of the garments is called garment washing.

Purpose of washing:
Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance. After washing the
garments create a new look which seems the new touch of fashion.
By the washing technique, faded/old look, color or tinted affect is created in the garments
which also seems the best touch of garments.Washing technique creates new fashion such
as tagging, grinding, destroy, Blasting, whickering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye,
P. P spray, hand crapping, P.P spoonzing etc. Which also seems the best touch of
garments.The main and important function of washing is to reduce size materials as a
result the garment become size free and become soft hand feel.When these soft garments
are touched then it seems to best touch of garments.
To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionable washing and market
developments.Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility
of further shrinkage of the wash garments.Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments
during manufacturing is also removed due to washing

51
Flow Chart of Washing:
Garments from store house
↓
Count
↓
Quality check
↓
Batch
↓
Washing
↓
Hydro extractor
↓
Drying
↓
Quality check
↓
Packing
↓
Delivery

Types of Garment Washing:

Wet and Dry process are mentioned below :

 Normal wash/Garments wash/Rinse wash
 Pigment wash
 Caustic wash
 Enzyme wash (Boi wash &Boi polishing)
 Stone wash
 Bleach wash (Ice wash& snow wash)
 Stone Enzyme wash
 Acid wash
 Silicon wash

52
  Sand Blasting & Hands scraping.
 P. P Spray
 Over all wrinkle
 Permanent wrinkle
 Tinting & Over dyeing
 Grinding & Destroy
 Broken & Tagging .
 P.P Sponging
 Dip Dyeing
 Tie & Dye etc.

Types of Washing Machine:

 Sample washing Machine (Horizontal / Vertical Type)
 Washing Machine (Side loading)
 Washing Machine (Front loading)
 Hydro extractor Machine
 Dryer Machine (Steam)
 Dryer Machine (Gas)
 Chemical Mixture Machine
 Industrial Oven (Gas/Electric)
 Boiler
 Submersible Pump
 Grinding Machine
 Tagging Machine
 Steam chamber for crinkle
 E.T.P (Effluent Treatment Plant)
 Generator
 Sand Blasting Gun
 Sand Blasting chamber
 Spray gun and dummy
 Screw compressor
 Laser draw

53
Types of Chemicals used in Washing & their function:
- Enzyme
– Acetic Acid
– Detergent
– Antistain
– Bleaching powder
– Sodium hyposulfite
– Caustic Soda
– Soda Ash
– Sodium Bicarbonate
– Potassium permanganate
– Cationic / nonionic Flax softener
– Micro Emulsion Silicon
– Salt (sodium chloride)
– Buffer
– Hydrogen peroxide
– Stabilizer
– Fixing agent
– Catanizer
– Optical Brightner
– Resin
– Sodium Metabisulphite
_ Desizing agent

54
  ENZYME :
The action of enzyme during enzyme wash it hydrolysis the cellulose. At
first it attacks the having projecting fibers and hydrolyzed them. Then it attacks the yarn
portion inside fabric and party hydrolyzed the yarn portion. As a result colour comes out
from the yarn portion and fadded affect is produced.

 DETERGENT :
Chemical character is fatty alcohol polyglycol ether in an aqueous,
glycolic solution. Detergent is widely applicable in the continuous and discontinuous
pretreatment of all types of fiber and their blends. To remove impurities, mineral oil
contamination and sizes from the garments. Scouring of goods for dyeing and printing
fully white and coloured articles.

 ACETIC ACID (CH3COOH) :

Acetic Acid is used to neutralize the garments from alkaline condition and
to control the pH value in wash bath.

 ANTISTAIN :
Antistain is used to prevent the staining on weft yarn of the denim (white
yarn), white pockets of garment, levels, contacted fabrics of garment and increased the
brightness of fabrics, It is also acts as anticreasing agent.

 BLEACHING POWDER :
Bleaching powder is an oxidizing agent. It is used in washing plant for
colour out from the denim garments. We can achieve deferent shade of colour on garment
i.e. Dark, Medium, Light shade.

 SODIUM HYPOSULPHITE :
Sodium hyposulphite is used to neutralize the garments from chlorine
bleach.

55
  CAUSTIC SODA :
Caustic created the role in bleach technique with out colour change the
garment and has a good cleaning power. It is work as fadding affect/old looking affect
come rapidly on garments.

 SODA ASH :
Soda ash creates alkaline medium for the breakdown of pigment dye. Soda
ash help to uniform bleaching action on bleach bath. It has a cleaning power and help
colour fadding affect of garment. It is used also for colour fixing in dye bath.

 SODIUM BICARBONATE
Sodium bicarbonate is used in washing plant in the bleach bath with
bleaching powder for Denim Light shade because easily colour out with in short time. As
a result production increase and costing is low.

 POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE :
Potassium permanganate is used in Acid wash with Punic stone for colour
out from the garments. It is used also spray chamber by nozzle for colour out (whitish
affect) from the garments.

 FLAX SOFTENER (Cationic, non ionic) :

Softener is used to make the garments treated textiles a surface feel that is
both sickly and soft and also provides excellent lubricating properties.

 MICRO EMULSION SILICON :

Amino Silicon is a textile finishing agent consisting mainly of an amino
modified silicon. When applied on fabrics, it gives durable softness, lubricity, elastic
handle, antipilling, dimensional stability, tear resistance and fabric to be cut and sewn
more easily allows and improving wear and easy care properties.

56
  SODIUM CHLORIDE (SALT) :
Resin is high efficiency textile resin based on etherified dimethylol
glyoxal monoureine urea. Resin is used for the creation of semi-permanent creases in
denim and other cellulose fabrics. It is used also cotton and polyester fabric. Fabric
retains soft handle after washing.
 SODIUM METABISULPHITE :
Sodium metabisulphite is used in the washing plant to neutralized the
garment from potassium permanganate.
 DESIZING AGENT :
Desizing agent is used to remove mainly starches, cmc, waxes, fats
pectin‟s, minerals & unfixed indigo dye from denim, twills, poplin & canvas fabrics etc.
 It helps to exhaust dye in to the fibre.

 BUFFER :
Buffer is used in washing plant for pH control of enzyme bath, softener
bath, desizing bath.
 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE :
Hydrogen peroxide creates the prime role in bleach wash technique. In
alkaline medium, hydrogen peroxide breaks up and gives some perhydroxhyl ion, which
discolour the colouring materials and as a result fadding affect is developed. Hydrogen
peroxide is used in scouring, bleaching bath for white/ready for dyeing of gray fabric
garments. It is used also neutralized the garment from alkaline condition.
 STABILIZER :
Hydrogen peroxide is work a good condition at temperature above 90°c,
when temperature raise to 90°c then break the Hydrogen peroxide. Stabilizer is used to
protect break the hydrogen peroxide and peroxide works in bath smoothly.

57
Week:10
Lecture:10
Topic: Application of Garment Washing Processes
Stone Enzyme Wash:
Now in our Bangladesh maximum Denim garment washing is done by stone enzyme
wash. It is most popular wash for Buyer.

Objects of Stone Enzyme Wash:

1. To create irregular fading affect on old looking affect on garments.
2. To remove dust, dart, oil spot, impurities from the garments.
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments i.e. to improve softness.
4. To achieve the buyer washing standard.
5. To remove the size materials from the garments.
6. To improve anti-pilling properties.

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 Sand Blasting:

 Sand blasting is recently a popular wash.

 Sand blasting is a mechanical process of creating fadding affect/old looking affect on
heavy garments like denim, canvas, twill, sometimes corduroy by the action of
aluminum oxide which looks like sand. For this reason this process termed as “Sand
blasting”.
 Sand blasting is generally doing which area that long time used/wear the garment
fading effect occurs. By sand blasting at new position old/fading affect on garment
comes before use/wear.
 Sand blasting is performed with combine the wash like, Normal/Rinse wash, Enzyme
wash, Stone enzyme wash, Bleach wash, Stone wash and tinting/dyeing etc.

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A process of Sand Blasting on Denim/ Canvas/ Twill/ Corduroy
garments is described bellow:-
 Aluminum oxide is used for Sand Blasting which is looks like sand.
 These aluminum oxide one very fine & very hand/sharp.
 These aluminum oxides through by gun with dry air to perform sand blasting
action.
 The gun has a switch to start and stop the flow of aluminum oxides.
 The garments to be Sand Blasting are placed on the bed of a closed chamber.
 The garments are instantly faded by the frictional affect of aluminum oxide.
 Sand Blasting is a hazardous process.
 Sand Blasting area is isolated from other production area.
 The handling of sand blasting gun is a risky process.
 The flow of aluminum oxide on fabric surface is done at 10-20° angles.
 The blowing angle is very important.
 Higher the blowing angle higher the fading affect & higher the risk of fabric
damage.
 The operators should have protective standard musk, helmet, gloves, ear flag and
uniform.
 Production/hour/gun varies from 25-50 garments depend on the area, extent of
fading.
 After mechanical fading, chemical treatments are required for the buyer‟s
requirement.

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Week:11
Lecture:11
Topic: Textile Finishing for woven and Knit fabric
Textile Finishing: The term finishing covers all textile wet/dry process; the general aim of
finishing is to improve the attractiveness and / or service ability of a fabric.
The grey cloth, woven cotton fabric in its loom-state, not only contains impurities, including
warp size, but requires further treatment in order to develop its full textile potential. Furthermore,
it may receive considerable added value by applying one or more finishing processes.

Objects of Finishing:

1. To improve the appearance of the fabric, that is make it more attractive or lustrous
by operations.
2. To improve the feel of the fabric by softening, Stiffening etc.
3. To improve wearing qualities of the fabric by making it shrink resistant, crease
resistant, or free from pills and soiling.
4. To increase weight of the fabric.
5. To cover faults in the original fabric.
6. To make garments hold their shape and enable them to be worn without ironing.
7. To impart special properties to the fabric for specify end use.
8. To set the texture of certain fabrics and make others dimensionally stable.
9. To produce stronger and more durable fabrics.
10. To produce novelty effects.
11. To increase service ability and wash fastness.

Classification of Finishing:
Generally There are two types of finishing. Those are---

1. Physical/Mechanical.
2. Chemical.

Physical/Mechanical Finishing:

Chemical is not used it. Used to control dimension and to improve appearance and
handle. It's less expensive.

It's two types-----

1. Temporary-----(Calendaring, embossing etc)

2. Permanent/Durable--- (Raising, sanforizing etc)

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Chemical Finishing:
Chemical is used for it. Used to make glossy protection and it's expensive.

It's also two types-----

1. Temporary------ (Starching, Weighting, Softening etc.)

2. Permanent/Durable---- (Mercerizing, Resin, Water proof, Fire proof etc.)

Machine Use for Finishing:

Woven Fabric Finishing m/c:

1. Calendering m/c.
2. Stentering m/c.
3. Sanforizing m/c
4. Raising m/c.
5. Hydroextractor m/c.
6. Steamer----------(1. Multilayer conveyor steamer. & 2. Roller bed steamer.)

Knit Fabric Finishing m/c:

For Open fabric:

1. Slitting m/c.
2. Stentering m/c.
3. Compacting m/c.

For Tube fabric:

1. Dewatering m/c.
2. Drying m/c.
3. Tube compacting m/c.

Yarn Finishing m/c:

1. Hydroextractor m/c.
2. Radio frequency dryer.
3. Infra-red dryer.

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Different Finishing Process:

Mercerizing
A further possibility is mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with caustic soda
solution to cause swelling of the fibers. This results in improved luster, strength and dye
affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension, and all alkali must be washed out before the
tension is released or shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing can take place directly on
grey cloth, or after bleaching.
Many other chemical treatments may be applied to cotton fabrics to produce low
flammability, crease resist and other special effects but four important non-chemical
finishing treatments are:
Mercerization is a chemical treatment which is done for –
A. To remove the strains caused during fabric formation.
B. To control the fabric shrinkage during laundering.

Stentering: It is mechanical process: its objects are

A. To eliminate the internal tension with the fibers, which are formed during
manufacturing.
B. To remove some stress

Shrinking (Sanforizing)
Finally, mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to as sanforizing), whereby the fabric
is forced to shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates a fabric in which any residual
tendency to shrink after subsequent laundering is minimal.

It is a thermo mechanical Treatment of fabrics.

Objects
A. To obtain dimensional stability.
B. Process L This process is done by passing the fabric through a compressive
shrinkage process. This shrinkage is achieved by pressing the fabric on to a thick
woolen felt.

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Calendaring

Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the fabric is passed
between heated rollers to generate smooth, polished or embossed effects depending on
roller surface properties and relative speeds.

Sanforization:

It is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and most textiles made from
natural or chemical fibres, patented by Sanford Lockwood Cluett (1874-1968) in 1930. It
is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width,
before cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after
washing.

The cloth is continually fed into the sanforizing machine and therein moistened with
either water or steam. A rotating cylinder presses a rubber band against another heated
rotating cylinder; thereby the rubber band briefly gets compressed and afterwards shrinks
to its final size. The cloth to be treated is transported between rubber band and heated
cylinder and is forced to follow this brief expansion and reconstruction and thus gets
shrunk.

The bigger the pressure applied to the rubber band the bigger the shrinking afterwards.

The aim of the process is a cloth which does not shrink during clothes production by
cutting, sewing or by wearing and washing the finished clothes.

For technical application cloth may be specified to have a shrink-proof value of less than
1%.

This is essentially an ironing process which adds show to a fabric. After going through
the preparation, coloration, and finishing process, the surface of a fabric is generally
distorted, resulting in a loss of luster, it can be calendared.
Objects: To improve the luster of the fabrics.

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Raising:
Another finishing process is rising. During rising, the fabric surface is treated with sharp
teeth to lift the surface fibres, thereby imparting hairiness, softness and warmth, as in
flannelette.
The process of rising is also known as „napping‟ It produces a fuzzy or hairy surface on a
fabric by abrading it and pulling the fiber ends to the surface. The fabric to be raised
should be made from soft twisted yarn.
Objects:
1. To make the fabric warm.
2. To cover any weaving imperfections.

Shearing:
Fabrics that have been usually undergo shearing to give them an attractive, smooth and
level surface. Shearing is the method of removing the fibers longer than the setting. Thus
the surface of the fabric becomes smoothers and lustrous.

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Slitting:

Slitter machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form. In open form fabric
finishing line; slitter machine is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and drying
machine.

Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended
break Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing. During slitting, it is
required to be aware about the cutting line otherwise, fabric faults can be occurred there.

Slitter machine
Objectives of Slitting:

Following objectives are achieved by the slitting machine.

1. To open tube fabric according to specific needle mark.

2. To prepare the fabric for next stentering process.

Function of the Slitting Machine:

1. Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing.

2. To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for
stentering.
3. Delivered fabric in crease free state.
4. Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a
nozzle or air sprayer.
5. It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding
mechanism.

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 Compacting :

Compactor is a textile finishing machine which is designed specially for

compacting 100% cotton knitted fabric like jersey, pique, interlock, plush, rib and
sinker etc. as well as cotton blended fabric in rope form, changing the loft and
dimensional stability of the fabric and presenting it to plaited form. Fitted with
two felt compacting units which make it to obtain top quality fabric, with
minimized shrinking nature and a soft fluffy hand.

Compactor machine

Function of Compactor Machine:

Compactor is important machine in knit fabric finishing process. There are a lot of
technical work which are done by compactor machine. The works are done by compactor
machine are pointed out below:

1. GSM control of the knitted fabric. For high GSM, overfeed is increased and fabric
width is decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is decreased and fabric width is increased.
2. Control shrinkage
3. Twisting control
4. Increase smoothness of fabric
5. Heat setting is done of fabric etc.

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Week: 12
Lecture: 12

Topic: Industrial Waste Water Treatment & ETP

Textile sector is putting enormous impact on Bangladesh economy yet this industry is
currently facing several challenges. Out of various activities in textile industry, chemical
processing contributes about 70% of pollution. Waste stream generated in this industry is
essentially based on water-based effluent generated in the various activities of wet
processing of textiles. It is well known that wet processing mills consume large volume
of water for various processes such as sizing, desizing, and scouring, bleaching,
mercerization, dyeing, printing, finishing and ultimately washing. In fact, in a practical
estimate, it has been found that 45% material in preparatory processing, 33% in dyeing
and 22% are re-processed in finishing. But where is the real problem? The fact is that the
effluent in textile generated in different steps is well beyond the standard and thus it is
highly polluted and dangerous. This is demonstrated in Table 1.

Properties of Waste Water from Textile Chemical Processing:

Property Standard Cotton Synthetic Wool

pH 5.5 – 9.0 8-12 7-9 3-10
BOD, mg/l, 5 30-350 150-750 150-200 5000 – 8000
days
COD, mg/l, day 250 200-2400 400-650 10,000 –
20,000
TDS, mg/l 2100 2100- 1060- 10,000 –13,000
7700 1080

Classification of Textile Waste Which are Generated in Textile

Industry:

Textile waste is broadly classified into four categories, each of having characteristics that
demand different pollution prevention and treatment approaches. Such categories are
discussed in the following sections:

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A. Hard to Treat Wastes:
This category of waste includes those that are persistent, resist treatment, or interfere with
the operation of waste treatment facilities. Non-biodegradable organic or inorganic
materials are the chief sources of wastes, which contain colour, metals, phenols, certain
surfactants, toxic organic compounds, pesticides and phosphates. The chief sources are:

 Color & metal → dyeing operation

 Phosphates → preparatory processes and dyeing
 Non-biodegradable organic materials → surfactants

Since these types of textile wastes are difficult to treat, the identification and elimination
of their sources are the best possible ways to tackle the problem. Some of the methods of
prevention are chemical or process substitution, process control and optimization,
recycle/reuse and better work practices.

B. Hazardous or Toxic Wastes:

These wastes are a subgroup of hard to treat wastes. But, owing to their substantial
impact on the environment, they are treated as a separate class. In textiles, hazardous or
toxic wastes include metals, chlorinated solvents, non-biodegradable or volatile organic
materials. Some of these materials often are used for non-process applications such as
machine cleaning.

C. High Volume Wastes:

Large volume of wastes is sometimes a problem for the textile processing units. Most
common large volume wastes include:

 High volume of waste water

 Wash water from preparation and continuous dyeing processes and alkaline
wastes from preparatory processes
 Batch dye waste containing large amounts of salt, acid or alkali

These wastes sometimes can be reduced by recycle or reuse as well as by process and
equipment modification.

D. Dispersible Wastes:
The following operations in textile industry generate highly dispersible waste:

1. Waste stream from continuous operation (e.g. preparatory, dyeing, printing and
finishing)
2. Print paste (printing screen, squeeze and drum cleaning)
3. Lint (preparatory, dyeing and washing operations)
4. Foam from coating operations
5. Solvents from machine cleaning
6. Still bottoms from solvent recovery (dry cleaning operation)
7. Batch dumps of unused processing (finishing mixes

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Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP):
Industries through waste liquor into rivers, canals etc. Before flowing this liquid to
outwards, the plant which treats this effluent to a harmless form for the environment is
known as Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP).

Process Flow Chart of Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP)

Collection Tank
↓
Storage Tank
↓
Mixing & Cooling
↓
Neutralization
↓
Chemical Coagulation
↓
Biological Oxidation Tank
↓
Sedimentation & Separation of Sludge
↓
Sludge Thickener
↓
Filtration
↓
Discharge to Drain

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Collection Tank: Commencing part, waste from different section enters here.

Storage Tank: Several blower pipe in this chamber. Mixing properties are different with
temperature.

Mixing & Cooling: Cooling tower is on paddle mixer used for mixing.

Neutralization: PH is controlled here.

Chemical Coagulation: Fe₂(SO₄)₃, Al₂(SO₄)₃ etc use for coagulation.

Biological Oxidation Tank: Artificially Eco-system established. Blowing air helps to

live micro-organism.

Sedimentation & Separation of Sludge: The blanket of precipitations is skimmed off to

another tank and remaining solution is removed to pressure filter.

Sludge Thickener: After exceeding the required level of recycling, sludge passed
through thickening chamber.

Filtration: Filtration layer consists of sand rock which filters wet sludge to extract water
rest in it.

Discharge to Drain: Release to environment with the check of final load of effluent in it.

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Different Units of ETP:

Screening unit:
It works like a filter. By filtering waste water, it removes threads, pieces of fabrics, small
metal pieces etc. In this unit a rotating brush is used for clean the pores if screen. The
brush rotates periodically.

Storage and Homogenization tank:

Different waste water from varies process is stored and makes a homogeneous mixture by
mixing different concentration of waste water.

Neutralization tank:
Neutralization of waste water is performed by dosing 98% H2SO4 as required to control
the PH of waste water PH range 6.5 to 7.5.

Distribution tank:
It distributes the water to the biological oxidation tank. Continuous aeration is supplied
here. Antifoam is dosed here to control the foaming in the oxidation tank.

Biological oxidation tank:

It is the heat of ETP. The entire harmful chemicals are damaged here by breaking their
bonds. This is done by bacteria. To ensure the proper function work and growth of
bacteria, few conditions must be maintained.

1. Temperature : 35º to 37º C

2. pH (Maximum) : 6.5
3. Dissolved oxygen : 4 PPM

Sedimentation Tank / Biological feeding tank:

Treated water is overflowed here from oxidation tank. Decolourent is used here to
destroy the color of waste water.

Settling tank / Sedimentation Basin:

A tank or basin in which waste water is held for a period of time, during which the
heavier solids settle to the bottom and the lighter material will floats to the water surface.
In this tank sludge is immersed and the harmless water is discharge to ponds, Land, river
etc.

Sludge Thickener:
Sludge taken here from clarifier. Polyelectrolyte is dosed coagulate the sludge. After one
hour of

Polyelectrolyte dosing aeration is stopped and fresh water discharge to drain when sludge
is taken. The thickened sludge is transferred to the sludge thickener bed.

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Sludge Thickener bed:
Here sludge is dried which is used as good fertilizer as well as fuel of brick field. Sludge
is dried under the sunlight.

Required Chemicals and Their Functions in Biological ETP:

H2SO4:
Function: Neutralize the waste water controlling the PH. It is auto dispensed in the
neutralization tank.

Polyelectrolyte:
Function: Used for sedimentation / sludge coagulation and also killing bacteria.

Antifoaming Agent:
Function: Used for reduction / controlling foam. It is used auto / manually in the
distribution tank.

De-colorant:
Function: Used for removing color. It is used auto / manually in the sedimentation
feeding tank.

Sodium Hypochlorite:
Function: It is used to kill the harmful bacteria. It is used in the biological oxidation
tank.

Product Quality Checked:

1. Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD)

2. Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)
3. Total suspended solids
4. Total dissolved solids
5. Color
6. pH etc.

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Some Important Factors:

Biochemical oxygen demand or B.O.D is the amount of dissolved oxygen needed by

aerobic biological organisms in a body of water to break down organic material present in
a given water sample at certain temperature over a specific time period. The term also
refers to a chemical procedure for determining this amount. This is not a precise
quantitative test, although it is widely used as an indication of the organic quality of
water. The BOD value is most commonly expressed in milligrams of oxygen consumed
per litre of sample during 5 days of incubation at 20 °C and is often used as a robust
surrogate of the degree of organic pollution of water.

Chemical oxygen demand or C.O.D In environmental chemistry, the chemical oxygen

demand (COD) test is commonly used to indirectly measure the amount of organic
compounds in water. Most applications of COD determine the amount of organic
pollutants found in surface water (e.g. lakes and rivers) or wastewater, making COD a
useful measure of water quality. It is expressed in milligrams per liter (mg/L) also
referred to as ppm (parts per million), which indicates the mass of oxygen consumed per
liter of solution.

Total suspended solids is a water quality measurement usually abbreviated TSS. It is

listed as a conventional pollutant in the U.S. Clean Water Act. This parameter was at one
time called non-filterable residue (NFR), a term that refers to the identical measurement:
the dry-weight of particles trapped by a filter, typically of a specified pore size. However,
the term "non-filterable" suffered from an odd (for science) condition of usage: in some
circles (Oceanography, for example) "filterable" meant the material retained on a filter,
so non-filterable would be the water and particulates that passed through the filter.

Total Dissolved Solids (often abbreviated TDS) is a measure of the combined content of
all inorganic and organic substances contained in a liquid in molecular, ionized or micro-
granular (colloidal sol) suspended form. Generally the operational definition is that the
solids must be small enough to survive filtration through a filter with two-micrometer

74
(nominal size or smaller) pores. Total dissolved solids are normally discussed only for
freshwater systems, as salinity comprises some of the ions constituting the definition of
TDS. The principal application of TDS is in the study of water quality for streams, rivers
and lakes, although TDS is not generally considered a primary pollutant (e.g. it is not
deemed to be associated with health effects) it is used as an indication of aesthetic
characteristics of drinking water\ and as an aggregate indicator of the presence of a broad
array of chemical contaminants.

…………………………………………………………………………………

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