TE 323 Fabric Design and Analysis CH # 02

Classification of a Complete Design for a Woven Fabric:

A complete design for a woven fabric consists of the following three major parts:
 Weave Plan
 Drafting Plan
 Lifting Plan

Weave Plan:It illustrates the interlacing of ends and picks in the fabric under consideration. It indicates
“ups” and “downs”of each yarn in the fabric.

Drafting Plan:This plan indicates the number of Heald shafts usedto produce a given design and the
order in which the warp ends are threaded through Heald eye of the Heald shafts.

Lifting Plan:Lifting plan defines the selections of Heald shafts to be raised or lowered on each
successive insertion of pick. Lifting plan is also known as “Peg Plan”.
There are also some other factors for designing a woven fabric. These are as follows:
 Denting Plan
 Structure
 Texture
 Handle
Denting Plan: The process of inserting warp yarn through reed is called Denting. The plan of denting
according to an order is called Denting Plan.
Structure:In the manufacture of fabric by weaving on a loom, the technique how the two series of
threads are interlaced at right angles to each other is called Structure.
Texture:The term Texturesignifies the general quality of a fabric, developed by the interlacement of yarn
used. Weight, bulk, hand feeling etc are also expressed by the term Texture.Materials, count of
yarn,relative density of threads are its main factors.
Handle:This is a term used to express the Harshness or Smoothness of fabric.

Foundational Factors of Woven Cloth Structure:

Variation of woven cloth structure depends upon the following foundational factors:
 The nature of yarn used
 The count or relative thickness of the yarns used as warp or weft.
 The relative setting or the number of ends or picks, which are placed side by side in a given width
and the length of cloth.
 The order of interlacing the ends and picks.
 Modifications produced by Finishing.

Methods of indicating of Drafting Plan:

Drafting plan can be indicated by the following methods:
 By Ruling Line
 By the use of Design Paper
 By Numbering
Ruling Line Method:Ruling line is a method of indicating draft, in which the horizontal lines
represent the healds and the vertical lines indicate the warp threads.The marks on the line indicate the
healds upon which the respective threads are drawn.

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HEALD
4
SHAFT

← WARP YARN

Design Paper Method:This is a method in which the horizontal spaces represent the healds and the
vertical spaces represent warp threads. Marks are inserted upon the small squires. This method is mainly
used.

6 X
5 X X
4 X X
3 X X
2 X X
1 X

Numbering Method:This is a method which refers to the number of healds. In this case, the threads are
successively drawn on the healds in the order indicating the number.

X X
X X
X X
X X
X X
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Systems of Drafting:
1. Straight Draft
2. Point Draft
3. Skip Draft
4. Broken Draft
5. Grouped Draft
6. Curved Draft
7. Divided Draft
8. Combined Draft.
Features of Straight Draft:
1) This draft is the simplest type of draft that forms basis from many other drafts.
2) Straight draft is the most common and can be used with any number of heald shafts.

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3) Each successive thread is drawn on each successive shaft. The first thread on the first shaft, the
second on the second shaft and so on. The last thread of the warp repeat is drawn on the last
shaft. Hence the number of heald shafts equals the number of warp in a repeat.

5 X
4 X
3 X
2 X
1 X

DRAFT PLAN (STRAIGHT)

X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X
#
WEAVE PLAN
Features of Skip Draft:
1) This is used in weaving the fabric with a high density of warp threads having same structure.
2) 2, 4, or 6 heald shafts are used in this drafting system.
3) This enables to decrease the density of heald on each shaft and to reduce the friction of threads
against thread and thread against heald.
4) In Plain weave, skip draft is used

4 X X
3 X X
2 X X
1 X X

DRAFTING PLAN (SKIP)

X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
#
WEAVE PLAN
Features of Point Draft or V- Draft:
1) Point draft is used for woven structures which are symmetrical about the centre and they are
frequently employed to produce diamond effect.

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2) The point draft can be considered as a combination of straight drafts, constructed firstly in one
direction and then on other.
3) The change in direction takes place on the first and last shafts of the draft which are the points of
reversal.
4) The first and last shafts carry only one end each whilst all the heald shafts in the middle carry two
ends per repeat of the draft. So, number of ends per repeat of the design = (2 × Number of heald
shaft) – 2
6 X
5 X X
4 X X
3 X X
2 X X
1 X

DRAFTING PLAN (POINT)

Features of Broken Draft:

1) This draft can be considered as a modified Point draft.
2) This is a combination of Straight drafts with different directions of construction.
3) But the direction is reversed not on the last or the first shaft. When the direction is reversed, the
first thread of the next group is started higher or lowers than the last thread of proceeding group.
4) It is applied for producing Herring Bone twills, Diaper design and some other weave.
6 X X
5 X X
4 X X
3 X X
2 X X
1 X X

DRAFTING PLAN (BROKEN)

Features of Grouped Draft:

1) The drafts are employed for the production of Check and Stripe designs.
2) The repeat of draft is determined by the number of stripes and the number of threads in each
stripe.
3) The number of shaft in the draft depends on the number of stripes and warp repeat of weave of
each repeat.
X
X X
X X
X X
X
X X
X X
X X
X X

DRAFTING PLAN (GROUPED)

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Features of Curved Draft:

1) Applied for Fancy weaves having a large warp repeat to reduce the number of shafts.
2) Curved drafts are irregular and cannot be classified.
3) The maximum number of shafts equalsthe number of threads in warp repeat with different order
of interlacing.
X X
X X
X X X
X X X X
X X X X X X
X X X
X X
X
X X
X X
X
X

DRAFTING PLAN (CURVED)

Features of Divided Draft:
1) Shafts are divided into two or more groups.
2) A suitable type of drafts is chosen for each group.
3) Divided drafts are employed for divided weaves, Double warp weaves, Two Ply weaves, Pile
weaves and some others.
X
{ X
X X
X
X X
{ X X X

DRAFTING PLAN (DIVIDED)

Features of Combined Draft:
1) When two or more drafts are combined in one draft for producing a certain type of fabric, then it
is known as Combined Draft.
2) It is the most complicated draft.
3) It can be chosen if there are some technological or economical reasons.
4) Great experience is required for such drafting plan.

X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X

DRAFTING PLAN (COMBINED)

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