How do we achieve these goals?

 We want to include between 15% to 40% surfactants in our mix to remove soil, sebum, and
styling product residue. (A daily shampoo contains 8% to 15% surfactants). To leave hair in good condition, we'll choose a
surfactant mix that is mild to hair and scalp as well as add a few things that might help leave our hair conditioned. And we an use all
kinds of lovely ingredients like conditioning agents, panthenol, extracts, and so on to make our hair feel nice when we've rinsed it
off.

The concentration of your surfactants will vary, but I usually go for the higher amount (around 40%) because not only is it easier to
thicken higher amounts of surfactants, but it's more concentrated, so I don't have to use a lot to get some serious lather!

A basic shampoo would look something like this...

BASIC SHAMPOO
15% to 40% surfactants (mix of anionic and cocamidopropyl betaine)
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil
up to 3% Crothix (liquid) to thicken or use salt at up to 3%
water to 100%

Why are we including each ingredient?

Water: Well, that's a given right? We need to include water in a shampoo to decrease the concentration of the surfactants and act
as a solvent for the other ingredients.

Surfactants: We always want to include cocamidopropyl betaine in our mixtures to increase the mildness and thickening of the mix.
We can choose surfactants suitable for our skin types - dry, normal, and oily - and use those for our hair types. Some good choices
might be...

Dry hair: Amide ether sulfates, taurates, SCI (with stearic acid), decyl glucoside, acyl glutamate.

Oily hair: Sulfosuccinates, alkane sulfonates.
Normal hair: Whatever you like, lucky girl!

All hair types might like the carboxylates (mild cleansing, conditioned feel), SLeS or ALeS, and SCI (without stearic acid for normal
to oily hair, with stearic acid for dry hair).

Thickeners: You can use something like Crothix - which will thicken and increase mildness - or salt. (Click here for three posts on
increasing viscosity in surfactant mixtures).

Preservative: I generally use liquid Germall Plus in my shampoos up to 0.5%, but you can choose another suitablepreservative.

So yeah, I guess we have achieved our goals. Hmm, why do I feel strangely unfulfilled? Perhaps it's because I've left out all the
good things that will really make our hair feel really conditioned and soft! A lower concentration is better for creating products that
will be mild, but this won't be the greatest foamer in the world. I know that foam doesn't equal cleaning power, but I need that foamy,
bubbly, lathery concoction to make me feel that it is cleaning more than a less foamy shampoo. (Never underestimate the aesthetics
of your product!)

A really important note: These ingredients are always the basis for a shampoo (well, except the fragrance, but I consider it
essential). If you see other ingredients in a shampoo - hydrosols, extracts, humectants, conditioners, silicones, and so on - they are
optional! If you are reading a recipe that you think you might like to make, but you're avoiding something in your hair care products,
leave that ingredient out and add water to make up the difference. The only surfactant I wouldn't ever change is the cocamidopropyl
betaine as this increases mildness and increases viscosity. Feel free to play around with the surfactant choices as well. 
An aside...We could get away without using thickeners in our surfactant mixes - it's really only there for the aesthetics, but a thicker
shampoo means less wasted product and will make us think it's more cleansing. Something like glycol distearate (EZ Pearl) is
almost always used in shampoo for dry hair because we perceive a pearlized product as more creamy and, therefore, more
moisturizing (which it is, actually). Doesn't this picture look like it should be a shampoo for dry hair? (It is, in fact, a bubble bath, but
the point is made...)

We don't need to fragrance or colour our shampoo, but there's something about a yellow shampoo scented with citrus that makes us
think of refreshing morning showers or a pink shampoo with Pink Sugar that makes us think we're being girly and fun. (Heck, you
could even put in some glitter to make you feel really girly!)

So this shampoo might be a good basic start, but I really think we need to include some of those lovely film forming, moisturizing,
and smelly ingredients to make a basic shampoo a little more appealing! Join me tomorrow for more about those hair loving
ingredients we can add to our hair care products! 

Crothix™ Liquid 
INCI Name:
 
PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (and) Aqua
Company:
 
Croda Inc.
Crothix™ Liquid is a 45% active liquid version of Crothix™, which is a high performance thickener for aqueous
surfactant systems. As an easier-to-use liquid, Crothix™ Liquid works especially well in cold mix systems and provides
formulators with the thickening efficiency to create shampoos, body washes, shower gels and liquid soaps or other soap
based-products that are economical, as well as rheologically appealing. Like Crothix™, Crothix™ Liquid requires no
neutralization, forms no nitrosamine byproducts, and often contributes to a ‘conditioned’ feel in rinse-off products.

Foaming Agents
Pioneers in the industry, we offer cocodiethanolamide chemicals, coco monoethanolamide and foaming agent from
India.

Product Details:
Minimum Order 100 Kilogram
Quantity

Solid % 35 Plus/Minus 1

Appearance Pale yellow clear liquid

Sodium Chloride 6 Max.

pH(5%Aqueous 5.5 to 7.5

Soln. in D.W

Packing 235 Kg. HDPE Drums

Applications It is used mainly for shampoo as conditioner

The Cocodiethanolamide Chemicals is used as Foaming Agent or Foam Booster Viscosity Builder
in shampoo. We manufacture Coco-diethanolamine in various specifications used across industries.
Coco-die is available in various packaging options that cater to the different requirements of end-
users.Packing - 50 kgs carboys and 200kgs HDPE Drums.Coco-die is used as a foam booster for
shampoos, additive in synthetic lubricants, viscosity modifier, conditioner, emulsifier, wetting agent,
penetrate dye dispersant scouring aid, anti-stat, metal processing etc.
Coco die is soluble in water and is used in the manufacture of liquid detergents. It is advantageously
used in various cosmetics preparations namely shampoo, hair oils as a foam booster, stabilizer,
thickening agent wetting agent. Other uses of coco-die are in textile scouring, leveling, cleaning,
lubricating agents, metal anti-corrosives, pigments dispersants and perfume carrier, latex stabilizer.

Callback
Detergents
Shampoos usually contain synthetic detergents (syndets) or surfactants as primary cleansers. A detergent or
surfactant is amphiphilic, meaning the detergent molecules contains both lipophilic (oil-attracting) and hydrophilic
(water-attracting) sites. The lipophilic sites help to bind sebum and oily dirt while hydrophilic end binds to water;
allowing removal of the sebum while washing with water. The most commonly selected shampoo detergents are
listed in below

There are five categories of shampoo detergents: Anionics, cationics, non-ionics, amphoterics and natural. Each of
this group possesses different hair cleansing and conditioning qualities. For a shampoo that is intended for oily hair,
detergents with strong sebum removal qualities are selected, but if it is intended for permanently waved or dyed hair,
mild detergents are selected to reduce sebum removal. Modern shampoos contain a mixture of surfactants (usually
between two and four) for providing optimum cleaning levels according to hair type and requirement—normal, oily,
dyed, permed, colored or damaged hair. The detergent listed first denotes the primary cleanser which is in highest
concentration and the detergent listed second is the secondary cleanser designed to offset the short comings of the
primary detergent.

Anionic detergents[13]

Among the most popular surfactants, they are named for their negatively charged hydrophilic polar group. Derived
from fatty alcohols, they are very good at removing sebum from the scalp and hair. However, the excessively
cleaned hair is harsh, rough, dull with frizz and prone to tangling. Among them, different classes of detergents are
available with certain selective properties.
  Lauryl sulfates: Popular primary cleansers, they work well in both hard and soft water, produce rich foam,
and are easily rinsed. They are excellent cleansers, commonly used in shampoos for oily hair. As the hair
becomes harsh and rough, careful selection of a secondary detergent and possible use of a conditioning
agent is always required as part of the shampoo formulation. Examples of this class include: Sodium lauryl
sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, and ammonium lauryl sulfate
 Laureth sulfates: These are another class of excellent detergents with good cleansing ability and foaming
property which are useful for normal-to-dry hair. Examples of this chemical class are: Sodium laureth
sulfate, triethanolamine laureth sulfate, and ammonium laureth sulfate

 Sarcosines: They are generally secondary detergents, as they do not remove sebum well from the hair to
justify as primary cleansers. They are listed as the second or third on ingredient list of detergents. Excellent
conditioners are used in conditioning shampoos and dry hair shampoos. Examples are: Lauryl sarcosine and
sodium lauryl sarcosinate

 Sulfosuccinates: These are strong detergents commonly used as a secondary surfactant in oily hair
shampoos. Examples are disodium oleaminesulfosuccinate and sodium dioctylsulfosuccinate.

Cationic detergents[13,14]

In contrast to anionic detergents they have a positively charged polar group. They are poor cleansers and do not
lather well and are not compatible with anionic detergents, limiting their utility. However, they are excellent at
imparting softness and manageability to chemically damaged hair and so are primarily used as daily shampoo for
damaged hair such as in case of permanently dyed or chemically bleached hair. Examples are: Long-chain amino
esters, ammonioesters, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.

Nonionic detergents[13,15]

They have no polar group and are among the mildest of all cleansers and aid to improve the antistatic qualities of a
shampoo. They can be combined with ionic detergent as a secondary cleanser. Examples are: Polyoxyethylene fatty
alcohols, polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters and alkanolamides.

Amphoteric detergents[13,16,17]

Having both positively and negatively charged polar group, they behave differently at lower pH (as cationic
detergent) and at higher pH (as anionic detergent). Subgroups include the betaines, sultaines, and imidazolinium
derivatives. They are used in baby shampoo and for those with fine and damaged hair because they don’t cause
stinging in the eyes in children, foam well and leave hair in manageable state. Examples are: Cocamidopropyl
betaine and sodium lauraminopropionate.

Natural detergents[11,13,18]

The fruit pulp of Sapindus, also known as soapberries or soapnuts contains saponins which are a natural surfactant
and creates a lather which leaves the hair soft, shiny and manageable. This was used for hair cleansing in India in
ancient times. After the advent of synthetic detergents, use of natural detergents became a memory. Recently
botanically based hair care products have made resurgence. Natural surfactants come from plants such as
sarsaparilla, soapwort, soap bark, and ivy agave. Although they have excellent lathering capabilities, cleansing of
hair is poor and their addition is only for marketing purposes.
Conditioners (In shampoo formulations)
Hair-conditioning ingredient functions to impart manageability, gloss, and antistatic properties to the hair. This may
be included in the shampoo which then serves dual function of cleaning and conditioning. Procter and Gamble
introduced “2 in 1” shampoos/conditioners in 1987 using silicone (dimethicone) droplets suspended in a surfactant
mixture. These are useful for those wishing to shampoo daily and for dry, damaged, or chemically treated hair.
Commonly used conditioning substances include hydrolyzed silk and animal protein, glycerin, dimethicone,
simethicone, polyvinylpyrrolidone, propylene glycol, and stearal -konium chloride. Protein-derived substances in
conditioners can temporarily mend split ends, known as trichoptilosis. Protein attracted to the keratin holds the
cortex fragments together until the next shampooing occurs.

Foaming agents
They introduce gas bubbles into the water but have nothing to do with cleansing, a common myth among general
population that a product which foams better cleans better. Inclusion of foam boosters like cocodiethanolamide as
ingredients in shampoo helps to satisfy the customer psyche which equates good foaming with good cleansing
though it does help spread the detergent over the hair and scalp. This helps in the commercial success of a shampoo
formulation. Sebum inhibits the bubble formulation; therefore, there is more foam during second shampooing.

Thickeners and opacifiers

These are added to change the physical and optical properties of the shampoo. This improves the cosmetic
acceptance. Many shampoos are pearlescent. This effect is achieved by addition of tiny flakes of suitable materials,
for example, glycol distearate. Thickeners like salt (sodium chloride) and PEG-150 distearate are used to increase
the product viscosity. Again these have no effect on hair cleansing.

Sequestering agents
Sequestering agent like polyphosphates and ethylenediaminetetra-acetic acid are used to chelate magnesium and
calcium ions. Presence of these ions form insoluble soaps called “scum” over the scalp and hair, may cause itching
and exacerbate the symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis while making the hair dull

pH adjusters
As the hair fiber has a pH of 3.67, a pH closer to 3.67 has less possibility to increase the negative electric charge that
normally involves the capillary fiber. To address the treatment of the scalp; shampoos must not have a pH higher
than 5.5, which is also scalp pH. Hair shaft swelling which occurs due to alkalization of hair shaft after use of most
detergents can be prevented by “pH balancing” the shampoo by the addition of an acidic substance, such as glycolic
acid or citric acid to adjust the pH down to approximately 5.5. Use of “neutral pH” shampoo helps for chemically
treated hair, from either permanent dyeing or permanent waving.

Preservatives
Preservatives resist germs and prevent decomposition of the shampoos. They also prevent various other health risks
that accompany contamination by germs and bacteria. Typical preservatives in shampoos are sodium benzoate,
parabens, 1,3-dimethylol-5,5-dimethyl (DMDM) hydantoin, tetrasodium EDTA, methylisothiazolinone, or MIT and
Quaternium-15.
Specialty additives
Recently, an attractive list of ingredients is being added to shampoos ranging from chemical sun screens to vitamins
like panthenol, pro-vitamins, botanicals like tea tree oil and even beer. The contact time of shampoos with scalp and
hair is too brief to expect significant clinical benefits despite claims to the contrary. These additives serve mainly to
allow the distinction of one shampoo from another in terms of marketing claims.

Normal hair shampoo is for people who have hair which are chemically untouched and scalp which produces
moderate sebum. Favorite with men. Normal hair shampoos use lauryl sulfate as the primary detergent providing
good cleansing and minimal conditioning.

Dry hair shampoo is for people who have undergone chemical treatment or harsh styling procedures. These
shampoos provide mild cleansing and good conditioning.

Oily hair shampoo is for people who produce abundant sebum. They contain lauryl sulfates or sulfosuccinates as
detergents and no conditioners.

Everyday shampoo is for people who want to daily wash their hair along with bath lest they feel dirty. They
generally contain mild detergents and typically do not incorporate the conditioners. But an instant stand-alone
conditioner is recommended which can be applied immediately after shampooing in the shower and completely
rinsed from the hair prior to drying.

Deep cleaning shampoo is for people who frequently use styling products, such as hair spray, gel, and mousse.
These polymers build up on the hair shaft after continuous use and make the hair look rough, dull and feel harsh. To
remove these polymers, a strong detergent like lauryl sulfates is used as their primary detergent. These shampoos are
typically used once weekly.

Baby shampoo is for babies where mild detergent is used which is non-irritating to the eyes and achieves mild
cleansing, as babies produce limited sebum. They contain the amphoteric group detergents, such as the betaines
which actually numbs the eye tissues to prevent stinging and irritation.[33,34] So it can still potentially damage the
eye if accidentally introduced and care should be taken while bathing the child.

Medicated shampoo is used for people with scalp problems like seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, bacterial or fungal
infections. In addition to regular cleansers they contain active agents such as Tar derivatives, corticosteroids,
salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, polyvinylpyrrolidone-iodine complex, chlorinated phenols or zinc pyrithione.
[35,36,37] Details regarding medicated shampoos are beyond the purview of this article. Two in one (popularly
known as “2-in-1”) shampoos, which contain silicone in the form of dimethicone as conditioner, and mild
detergents, such as the laureth sulfates or cationic detergents, which produce reasonably good foam.[10] Thus, after
shampoo the sebum is replaced with silicone to make the hair shiny, soft, and free of static electricity.

Professional shampoos are not for ordinary people but for use of professional hair stylist and cosmetologist. They
are either used before a cutting or styling procedure or before and after a chemical process like bleaching and dyeing
or coloring process. Briefly these shampoos have ingredients in extremely concentrated forms or special anionic or
cationic detergents that neutralize the harsh effects of chemicals on hair shaft or remove the residues of chemicals
applied to achieve a particular hair style or color. They are not to be used for day to day hair care.

How do conditioners act?

Conditioner molecules contain cationic surfactant which gives a positive electric charge to the conditioner. The
negative charge of the hair is attracted to the positively charged conditioner molecules, which results in conditioner
getting deposited on the hair, especially on areas where there is degree of weathering.[1,42,43] This is true for
damaged hair as they are even more negatively charged. Thus, conditioners reduce the static electricity. They also
flatten the cuticle scales over the hair shaft, reducing the friction between hair fibers, increasing the reflectance of
light which improves shine and color.[44] The smooth feel resulting from conditioner use gives easier combing and
detangling in both wet and dry conditions.[1] Conditioners temporarily seal split ends and mend trichoptilosis.[45]

What do conditioners contain?

There are several different active agents that can be combined to achieve a hair conditioner designed for a given hair
type. Conditioners are essentially cationic systems that, for best effect, are presented a dispersions rather than
solution.[10] Conditioners consist of the following ingredient:[46,47,48,49]

 Cationic surfactants: Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium or propyltrimonium,

stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. They are considered the backbone of a conditioner
 Polymers: Mono and polypeptides like hydrolyzed proteins (amino acids), polypeptides derived from
collagen and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

 Bodying agents and thickeners: Fatty alcohols (e.g. cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), waxes (e.g. carnauba
wax and paraffin wax), or gums (e.g. guar gum) and salt (sodium chloride)

 Emollients/oily compounds: These include natural or synthetic oils, but also esters and waxes. Natural oils
used in conditioners are, for example, jojoba oil, olive oil, or grape seed oil. The most frequently used
synthetic oils are silicone (e.g. dimethicone, dimethiconol, amodimethicone and cyclomethicone) which
are even superior to natural oils in terms of film formation, shine and luster. Asian countries have large
hair diameters, therefore a higher concentration of silicone is used as compared to that for Caucasian hair
(3-5% vs 0.5%)[1]

 Auxiliary emulsifiers: Ethoxylated fatty alcohols (e.g. polysorbate-80 or ceteareth-20) which are non-ionic
agents seem to be particularly effective at providing emulsion stability if it cannot be acheived by catiionic
agents alone in a conditioner.

How are conditioners used?

Hair conditioners are used in several ways depending upon their need. They are summarized below:[44,48,50]

Instant conditioners

Instant conditioners are the most common. They are applied immediately after shampooing and are left for a short
period of time (around 5 min) before rinsing. They are ideal for daily use with minimally damaged hair. They are the
most popular type of conditioner for both salon and home use.

Deep conditioners

Deep conditioners, also known as intensive hair conditioners, are similar to instant conditioners, except they are
more concentrated and are left on the hair for 20 to 30 minutes. They are usually used for extremely dry hair and
also before chemical treatment such as coloring and waving. If they are used prior to chemical hair processing, they
are known as “Fillers.”
Blow drying conditioners

Blow drying lotions are similar to instant conditioners, but they do not contain oil and therefore can be left on the
hair and are useful for people with fine hair and excessive scalp sebum.

Hair glaze or hair thickeners conditioners

They coat hair shaft, increasing their diameter minutely and giving the illusion of thick hair. They usually contain
proteins as conditioners.