A Year of Innovation in Colour Cosmetics 2020

10 MARCH 2020 | REPORT
A YEAR OF INNOVATION IN
COLOUR COSMETICS, 2020
A gap exists for more eco-focused NPD, more transparent 'clean' messaging Rosalia Di Gesu, Global
and for more fun- and convenient-focused innovation. Beauty & Personal Care
Analyst
1 © 2020 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel.

https://clients.mintel.com/report/a-year-of-innovation-in-colour-cosmetics-2020
Table of Contents
EUROPE, MIDDLE EAST & AFRICA (EMEA) ....................................................................................... 6
Europe: opportunities exist for more eco and 'clean' NPD ................................................................ 8
[Graph] Europe: colour cosmetics NPD by select eco and vegan claims, 12 months to January
2020 .................................................................................................................................................. 8
Europe: align with trending concepts and themes .......................................................................... 14
Europe: appeal to busy consumers................................................................................................. 20
[Graph] Europe: colour cosmetics NPD by convenient and multi-use claims, 2015-16 vs
2019-20 ........................................................................................................................................... 21
Spotlight on MEA ............................................................................................................................ 23
[Graph] MEA: colour cosmetics NPD by select natural and free from claims, 2015-20 ..................23
ASIA PACIFIC (APAC) ......................................................................................................................... 26
APAC: promote a glowy finish and skin health benefits in more engaging ways ............................28
[Graph] APAC: colour cosmetics NPD with hydration claims, by sub-category, 12 months to
January 2020 .................................................................................................................................. 28
APAC: explore emerging and trending concepts/themes ............................................................... 32
[Graph] APAC: colour cosmetics NPD by select eco (and vegan) claims, 12 months to January
2020 ............................................................................................................................................... 33
APAC: continue to make convenience a key selling point .............................................................. 39
[Graph] APAC: colour cosmetics NPD by select convenient claims, 2015-16 vs 2019-20 .............40
THE AMERICAS................................................................................................................................... 43
Americas: make cosmetic application quick, easy and simpler ...................................................... 45
[Graph] Americas: colour cosmetics NPD by select convenient claims, by region, 12 months to
January 2020 .................................................................................................................................. 45
Americas: don't be left behind as the spotlight on eco and 'clean' beauty continues ......................48
[Graph] Americas: colour cosmetics NPD by fastest growing claims, 2015-16 vs 2019-20............49
Americas: encourage new product trial with more disruptive concepts and on-trend themes ........51

Global opportunities
Be clear about your 'clean' messaging
Pre-empt any backlash against 'clean beauty' by being transparent about your interpretation of
'clean' by collaborating with renowned accreditation bodies/apps (eg EWG, Yuka) and aligning with
niche but on-trend eco claims. In the eco area, use biodegradable glitter, upcycled ingredients or
mention carbon offsetting initiatives.
Boost experimentation with fun and engaging NPD

Be inspired by an array of disruptive innovations that seek to encourage trial and experimentation.
These include super-sensorial patterned lipsticks and eyeshadow, empowering lashes for albinos
or tattoo makeup for pregnant bellies, glow-theme concepts in a niche body makeup segment and
colour-changing blush.
Simplify the makeup application process

As convenience is important to people, it drives NPD – especially pack innovation. Be inspired by packs
with engaging revolvable elements, built-in applicators or portable snap-on/off features (for use at
home or on the go). Ensure multi-use innovations don't cannibalise overall sales by making it clear
why they command a premium.
Our pick of the most innovative launches in this review
Colour-changing blusher
Kailijumei's Magical Thermo Cheek blush, a 'world first' for blusher

detects body heat and adjusts colour intensity accordingly. It has been
inspired by colour-changing concepts that have already been seen in lip
colour and nail polish.
Makeup tattoo for pregnant women
Belly of the Month Non Toxic Temporary Belly Tattoos is a specialised

hybrid makeup/temporary tattoo range from Hatch Belly. It stands out
by not only encouraging makeup experimentation but also by
celebrating pregnancy.

False eyelashes for the albino community
Albino beauty influencer J. Renée's Ivoree Beauty brand targets an

under-represented albino community. Its first line, Blondee 3D Mink
Lashes in Blondee (blond) and Icee 3D Mink (white) shades, are more
apt for "the fairest of them all".
Source: Ivoree Beauty
How Mintel Trends are impacting colour cosmetics
Sub-Zero Waste
Aligning with Mintel BPC's 2019 Sub-Zero Waste Trend is 0% Plastic

Eco-Glitter Balm, which uses certification and a 0% plastic formula to
stand out. It is made with responsibly sourced mica.
Sense of the Intense
Super-sensorial patterned textures tap into Mintel's Sense of the

Intense Trend. Babor Age ID Make-Up Autumn/Winter 2019 Velvet
Stripes Eye Shadow wows consumers with its realistic velvet-like layer.
Extend My Brand
Bringing existing trust from stationery to makeup and embodying

Mintel's Extend My Brand Trend is BodyMark Henna Vibes Temporary
Tattoo Marker from BiC. It will boost competition and engagement in a
niche body makeup space.
Source: Plastic Soup Foundation

Global retail market overview: colour cosmetics, 2020

Markets to watch with high forecast growth include Turkey, India, China and South Africa. Slower growth is
forecast in mature markets in Western Europe, Japan and the US.
Base: size of each bubble represents the respective size of the market in value (US$ forecast 2020);
CAGR is in local currency
Source: Mintel Market Sizes

EUROPE, MIDDLE EAST & AFRICA (EMEA)

The opportunities: EMEA

Opportunities exist for more eco NPD
Put the sustainability message at the forefront of your brand given demand but niche NPD. Be mindful
of the scourge of plastic-based glitters, but look beyond plastic pollution too. For example, advertise
carbon offsetting initiatives, use upcycled 'waste' ingredients and tap into on-trend sustainable vegan
lifestyles.
Align with trending concepts and themes

Broaden diversity themes by targeting more underrepresented communities (eg a line in the US
targets albinos). Maintain the longevity of glow finish trends by moving into niche body colour or
bronzer segments. Bring more sensorial elements into play with scent and texture. Help consumers
achieve natural brows, but statement eyes.
Appeal to busy consumers

Despite the pampering elements associated with makeup application rituals, the fast-paced nature of
modern life means that durability, ease and speed are top of mind and must drive NPD. A particular
gap exists for more multi-use and portable innovations, and more versatile setting sprays that blur
with skincare and glow trends.
EMEA retail market overview: colour cosmetics, 2020

Long-lasting formulas (meaning less frequent buying need) and a skincare focus contribute to a slowdown
in mature countries. Turkey and South Africa are markets to watch.

Europe: opportunities exist for more eco and

'clean' NPD
A missed opportunity exists: forefront the sustainability message

Europe: colour cosmetics NPD by select eco and vegan claims, 12 months to January
2020
20%
19
15%
% of launches
10%
8
7 7
5% 4
0%
Vegan Sustainable Eco package Eco product Recycling
Source: Mintel GNPD

A missed opportunity exists: put the

sustainability message at the forefront
Eco NPD remains niche in colour cosmetics, despite the media and
government spotlight on climate change.
Do more in this area to appeal to notable consumer interest.
In France, Germany, Italy and Spain, over a fifth of adults (rising to 36%
in Spain) seek eco qualities in base makeup products.
Also look to be more disruptive and align with emerging sustainability

themes that look beyond plastic pollution. For example, advertise how
your brand will offset its carbon footprint, use upcycled 'waste'
ingredients and tap into vegan lifestyles which are perceived as
'greener' than animal-based.
Source: Mintel GNPD
Don't be left behind as companies make sustainable investments

and pledges
Lush explores use of carbon-positive cork
Lush is turning to cork to produce carbon-positive packaging. The

development aims to tackle plastic waste and is carbon-positive (ie it
requires trees to be planted in order to produce the cork).
L'Oréal x Albéa creates paper-based tube
L’Oréal has teamed up with Albéa (a pack solution company) to

develop a paper-based cosmetic tube. It will allow L’Oréal to replace
most of the plastic currently used in its tubes with new bio-based and
certified paper-like material.

Selfridges battles the scourge of plastic glitter
UK department store Selfridges pledges to remove plastic-based

cosmetic glitter from sale in its stores by 1 January 2021. The initiative
will give customers more sustainable options and protect water
systems, oceans and sea life.
Source: Lush
The scourge of plastic-based glitters drives some NPD...

Biodegradable glitter claims*, virtually non-existent a year ago, are niche but can grow further as people
take note of the damaging attributes of plastic-based glitter.
Uses plant cellulose from eucalyptus trees
EcoStardust is biodegradable, vegan and cruelty-free glitter in Bioglitter

Sparkle and Pure variants. They're made from a biodegradable film
derived mainly from plant cellulose (predominantly from sustainably
farmed eucalyptus trees).
Stresses 0% plastic claims
0% Plastic Eco-Glitter Balm uses certification (Plastic Soup Foundation)

and a 0% plastic formula (vs other biodegradable glitters that can
contain 8% plastic) to stand out. It is made with responsibly-sourced
mica.
Stresses its softer texture vs traditional glitter
Lottie Eco Glitter is biodegradable, vegan, allergen-free and made from

plant cellulose. To address any efficacy concerns and focus on the
positive, it details how the glitter is 40% softer (vs plastic glitter) and
gentle on skin.
* based on a GNPD seach: keyword 'glitter' charted by biodegradable claim

..but plastic-based glitter/sparkles are still everywhere

Despite the spotlight on damage-causing microplastics, glitter is a big theme in cosmetics, even appearing
within packs. The mixed messages can confusing.
Glitterholic: pack with a glitter finish
The Catrice limited edition Glitterholic collection taps into the interest in
all things that sparkle, especially during the festive Dec/Jan holiday
season. The pack features a sparkling glitter finish.
Electric Nights: eyeshadow pack uses loose sparkles
The L'Oréal Paris Electric Nights collection for the festive Christmas
2019 season includes mascara, eyeshadow and eyeliner. It comes in
sparkly packaging, some including loose glittery particles within it.
Glitter Boom: pack includes loose glitter particles
The Rival de Loop Young Glitter Boom collection includes an eye

shadow palette, featuring loose glitter particles within the packaging to
further emphasise its sparkly/glitter theme.
Upcycled trend can move further into

cosmetics
The upcycled trend, whereby 'waste' ingredients are re-purposed in
product formulas or into packs, (eg seeded boxes) can be further
exploited in colour cosmetics and tap into sustainability concerns.
A recent innovation tapping into this trend is Pretty In Bloom Flower-

Infused Long-Wear Foundation SPF 20 from Origins.
Pretty In Bloom Flower-
It contains, among other skincare ingredients, reclaimed buttery flower
Infused Long-Wear
waxes from perfumeries.
Foundation SPF 20

Arcancil moves further into the vegan and

eco spaces
French cosmetic brand Arcancil is further venturing into the vegan beauty
segment, recognising consumer interest and growth potential.
Indeed, there has been a spike in vegan claims in cosmetics, and vegan
concepts can evolve and stress not just animal welfare, but planet
welfare benefits too.
Arcancil Le Lab Végétal
The dedicated 100% vegan Le Lab Végétal range is available exclusively
100% vegan collection
at Monoprix, Amazon and via its own website. It contains animal-free
ingredients such as carnauba wax instead of beeswax in its mascara.
It also taps into sustainability trends with its 'eco-responsible' packaging

(eg recyclable paper outer packs sourced from sustainable forests,
minimal use of plastic containers). It is also a member of the 1% for the
Planet organisation, which is committed to environmental protection.
Support animal welfare programmes

Make a bigger deal of animal welfare beyond cruelty-free. Highlight the plight of endangered species
whose habitats are being destroyed due to climate change or other factors.
Supports wild tiger preservation initiatives
The All Tigers Natural & Vegan Liquid Lipstick collection is a member of
the 1% for the Planet eco organisation and specifically gives 1% of its
sales to protect wild tigers and their ecosystem.
Inspired by whales but not supporting their plight
The Pupa Whales makeup collection, inspired by whales, comes in

'Nordic design': minimalist yet bold whale-shaped cases in grey, white
or blue shades. However, an opportunity was missed for the brand to
support wildllife charities.

Highlights the plight of endangered species
The Barry M Wildlife limited edition collection has launched to highlight

the plight of diminishing animal populations (eg the wild tiger, snow
leopard, pangolin and rhino). The brand supports the David Shepherd
Wildlife Foundation (DSWF).
IN THE UK
Be clearer about 'clean' and align with eco
49%
and vegan trends
of women indicated As the 'clean beauty' trend takes hold and becomes the norm, stand out
that it's important for and allay any confusion (given a lack of regulation). Better detail what
their beauty/grooming you mean by this 'clean' broad church term that hints at offering the
routine to be ‘clean’ best of science and nature.
For example, specifically mention which 'unclean' ingredients are

omitted in your formulas and why, and/or include accreditation from
reputable bodies or those trusted by consumers (eg Yuka).
Also, extend the 'clean' concept beyond its 'safe' and more 'natural'
proposition, and by also blurring with sustainability and vegan
messaging.
Base: UK: 2,000 internet users aged 16+

Source: Lightspeed/Mintel
More clean beauty brands emerge in Europe
Jessica Alba's Honest Beauty clean brand in Europe
The Honest Beauty clean beauty brand from US actress and

entrepreneur Jessica Alba launched in Europe in 2019 (after its debut in
the US back in 2015).

Mass market player Catrice moves into clean segment
German mass-market makeup brand Catrice has moved into clean

cosmetics with limited edition Clean ID. It's vegan, free from (eg
parabens, microplastics, pure palm oil), cruelty-free and eco (uses
paper and recyclable pack materials).
Avon's affordable clean brand moves into makeup
Avon's Distillery vegan, 'eco-conscious' and affordable 'clean' skincare

brand has moved into makeup. Includes liquid lipstick and mascara,
eye shadow and powder foundations which both come in eco board
cases (vs plastic).
Bring a community feel to your 'free-from'

products
Pitched as an Avon-like direct selling concept, but for digital-savvy Gen Z
and Millennial consumers, is the MyBeautyBrand By.Me beauty platform.
It uses minimalist-designed eco (recycled and recyclable) packs and

free- from formulas (gluten, parabens).
It tightens the relationship between brand and customers by making

MyBeautyBrand By.Me
the customer part of the business.
It allows users to open their own webstore to showcase the brand's

products, earning commission at the same time.
Europe: align with trending concepts and themes

Empowerment and diversity themes expand

Empowerment and diversity
themes are prevalent and
expanding in makeup, with the
focus on broadening base
makeup shade options.
While this remains important,

also look to broaden
empowerment themes by
better targeting older
Uoma Beauty offers 51 French ethnic BlackUp brand women or more
shades and six 'Skin Kins' collaboration with French underrepresented groups
skin issue formulas singer, Sh'ym (eg abrand in the US targets
albinos).
Boost NPD in a niche body colour segment

Reach out to more consumers and encourage greater usage of body
makeup by adding more glamour to the niche category.
For example, use more stylish marketing, branding and packaging –

akin to that seen in other colour cosmetic segments.
Also appeal to women who experience body skin conditions or

irritations and look for medicated products to match their skin tone.
Instant Perfector
Be inspired by Alleven, a cosmetic brand dedicated to beautifying body
skin, and including an expanding selection of products. These include
tinted serums, mists and perfectors enriched with botanical extracts to
take care of users' skin while enhancing its colour and glow.

Glow themes evolve, blur with bronzer and move from face to
body
As the glow trend becomes more established in face makeup, look to the body to maintain its longevity
and appeal; blur with bronzer too to boost NPD in this niche segment.
Easy use 'glow bronzer' in stick format
Marc Jacobs Glow Away Bronzing Coconut Body Stick quickly provides
an instant golden glow to body skin with its easy use, mess-free and
"ultra-practical" stick format. Users simply glide the stick over skin and
blend.
For a 'lit from within' body glow
INC.redible You Glow Girl Body Blur is designed to add a golden

shimmer glow (in four shades) to body skin. Marketed as a 'glow
powder, bottled' it illuminates skin with its weightless, light-reflecting,
non-smudge formula.
Easy use "high shine" spray body bronzer
Launched within the Loveburst by Love Island makeup collection -

inspired by the Love Island reality TV show - is easy use Glowtime
Diamond Body Bronzing Spray. It creates a high-shine finish with a
universal shade.

Facilitate glow finishes with easy use applicators/dispensers

Roll-on and dropper dispensers are niche in colour cosmetics but are starting to appear in glow/dewy
formulas in an effort to bring convenience or added sensoriality.
Add glow with easy use roller or drop applicators
Launched within the Essence Glow My Mind! collection are: Glow Roller
(in a practical roller bottle for easy use on the face and body) and
Crystal Glow Drops (to use alone, with foundation or with body lotion).
Fenty glow with rollerball applicator
Fenty's Liquid Diamond Bomb glitter highlighter in a liquid form is

presented in a portable round bottle with a rollerball applicator for easy
application on the face or body.
Bring a Mediterranean glow with drop applicator
Launched within Dolce & Gabbana's Solar Glow collection is Universal

Glowing Drops to add to foundation. It has a water-based gel formula
and a serum-like texture to recreate "a warm Sicilian sunshine glow".

Blur more directly with scent for added sensoriality

Hybrid cosmetic, fragrance and 'tattoo' themes bring sensorial elements into play in an effort to appeal
to and engage consumers.
Miller Harris scent blurs with body cosmetics
Miller Harris Scherzo Fragrance Tattoo Pen offers a new format for the
Scherzo scent variant. It resembles an eyeliner pencil and delivers a
black, strongly scented ink to draw on the body.
Flower by Kenzo scent blurs with makeup
Kenzo fragrance, Flower by Kenzo, has blurred with cosmetics with the
launch of Kenzo Flower by Kenzo Eau de Parfum in a Glow Stick. The
fragrance is enclosed in an illuminating stick for the body, adding a
cosmetic benefit to the scent.
Festive cookie scent to enchant and engage
The Rossmann Alterra Naturkosmetik Cookie-licious collection (eg

lipstick, mascara, eyeshadow) features a cookie scent designed to
enchant and engage consumers; while an organic orange and almond
oil formula nourishes skin/lips.

Wow consumers with realistic and out-there textures

Beyond colour, bring
something extra – visually – to
wow consumers.
Be inspired by super-
sensorial patterned textures
– velvet in particular is a
running theme in Europe.
The Babor eyeshadow

Babor Age ID Make- 183 Days by Trend It Up features a realistic velvet-
UpAutumn/Winter 2019: Velvet Berry like layer on the top, while
Velvet Stripes Eye Shadow the 183 Days by Trend It Up
trend-driven brand includes a
Velvet Berry collection in
packs with velvet-like fabric.
Sensorial warming message hits blush

Simple sensorial messaging can attract consumer attention, as seen with
Maybelline's Cheek Heat Sheer Gel-Cream Blush.
The water-based, moisturising gel-cream formula speaks of simply

needing to be warmed on the fingertip and applied onto cheeks to create
a natural buildable flush of colour.
Maybelline Cheek Heat

Sheer Gel-Cream Blush
Bold single-colour shadows and liners are on-trend

As face makeup takes a
subtler approach, eye makeup
will become the centre of
attention.
Create statement eyes with

single-colour bold colour
shadows, and colourful
eyeliners that also double
up as shadow.
Fenty Beauty's Getting Hotter Pop of colour Anastasia
Baewatch Vivid Liquid Norvina Mini Norvina Pro
Eyeliner Trio Pigment Palette Vol.2

Help consumers achieve natural and straight-up brow looks

Brow looks are moving away
from the bold and towards
more natural yet
voluminous styles.
Helping users achieve this

look are clear 'brow soap'
innovations inspired by an
old-school Hollywood trick of
using soap to set brows in
place. WBCo Soap Brows with ICONIC Brow Soap with
glycerin, coconut butter, jojoba seed oil, candelilla wax
The ICONIC line creates a sorbitol etc
clear film over the brows for
lift and hold with zero chalky
residue or crunchiness.
WBCo Soap Brows comes in

a portable tin and is designed
to hold a brushed-up brow
style.
Be mindful of a celebrity influx and its impact on your brand

React to an influx of yet more
celebrity beauty brands these
past 12 months, hot on the
trail of success stories such
as Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty
launched back in 2017.
Collaborate with A-listers

given their influence or
stress the value of your
Millie Bobby Brown’s Florence Victoria Beckham Beauty experience, knowledge and
by Mills, created when she high-end makeup and reputation.
was just 15 skincare brand
Europe: appeal to busy consumers

Convenient and multi-use claims are on the rise

Despite the pampering and soothing elements associated with makeup application rituals, the fast-paced
nature of modern life means that durability, ease and speed are more important to consumers.
Indeed, among UK women who apply makeup every day, 47% spend less than 15 minutes on maintaining
their appearance in the morning, and 61% of women want beauty and grooming routines to require little
maintenance throughout the day.
These attitudes are driving the rise in convenient-focused colour cosmetic claims, and the rise in multi-use
products. A gap exists for more multi-use and portable NPD, which are far less active compared to
established longlasting claims.
Europe: colour cosmetics NPD by convenient and multi-use claims, 2015-16 vs 2019-
20
Feb 2015-Jan 2016 Feb 2019-Jan 2020

75%
53
% of launches
50% 43
29
22 25
25% 21
9 8 10
5
0%
Long-lasting Time/speed Ease of use On-the-go Multi-use

Source: Mintel GNPD
Broaden the appeal of convenient ancillary makeup setting

sprays
Makeup setting sprays are blurring with skincare, aligning with glow/dewy trends and marketing
versatility in an effort to broaden their appeal beyond prolonging wear.
Matte finish, versatile (use alone or over makeup)
Make Up For Ever Professional Light Velvet Air Shine-Control

Refreshing Spray helps users achieve a natural-looking, matte finish
and also cares for skin with its refreshing and soothing Aloe vera
formula. Use alone or over foundation.

Array of choices from Urban Decay
Recent innovations in the Urban Decay All Nighter Makeup Setting

Spray range bring more choice. Ultra Matte Long-Lasting (16 hours)
absorbs excess oil and controls shine, and a festive red pack variant
celebrates Lunar New Year.
Glow finish, versatile (base, fixer body mist)
Wibo Healthy Glow Booster Illuminating Mist contains silver, jojoba oil,
d-panthenol and moisturising glycerin and offers multi-functional
benefits for extra versatility (eg illuminating face or body mist, base for
make-up, fixing spray).
Simplify makeup routines with multi-use and customisable

innovations
There is a gap in the market for more multi-use NPD to appeal to the consumer desire for ease, and
help people cut back on the amount of products needed to both use and store.
Versatile and customisable paint-themed emulsions
The Depixym Cosmetic Emulsion range of inclusive (for him, her, them):
durable, highly pigmented, multi-purpose emulsions to be used on the
body or face as a liner, lipstick, blusher, base etc. Can also be blended
for a customised shade.
Mess free duo primer and foundation stick
Max Factor's Panstik solid foundation has upgraded to Facefinity All

Day Matte Panstik. Now for added convenience, it has a dual-end with
a shine control primer on one side, and a full coverage foundation on
the other.

Versatile balm for face, body, brows and lashes
The Collection You Do You 100% vegan makeup brand contains skin-
loving ingredients (eg hyaluronic acid, vitamin E and argan oil) and
includes a versatile Multi Use Glow Balm to add glow to face or body,
tame brows or define lashes.
Spotlight on MEA
Highlight the natural

Appeal to the huge consumer interest in natural beauty and personal care products in the MEA region.
NPD in this area is somewhat limited.
MEA: colour cosmetics NPD by select natural and free from claims, 2015-20
Botanical Paraben-free Fragrance-free No additives/preservatives

Organic
12%
11
10%
8 8
8%
7
% of launches
6
6%
5 5
4 4
4%
3 3 3
2 2
2%
1 1 1 1
0 0 0
0%
Feb 2015-Jan 2016 Feb 2016-Jan 2017 Feb 2017-Jan 2018 Feb 2018-Jan 2019 Feb 2019-J…
Source: Mintel GNPD

Green tea mentions are trending in Nigeria

An influx of green tea innovations have appeared in the Nigerian makeup market these past 12 months,
aligning with consumer interest in natural, healthy, food-based formulas.
Makes green tea claim, and vitamin E formula
Charm Look Super BB 2in1 Green Tea New Pressed Powder Luminous
Foundation contains vitamin E and minerals, and can be used wet or
dry, providing maximum coverage and high definition.
Green tea imagery but minimal associated benefits
Kiss Bèauty Green Tea Powder is clear about its 'green tea' positioning
using its naming and product imagery - but could better advertise
associated benefits currently lacking in its on-pack marketing.
Green tea claims and pack imagery
Miss Lovely Green Tea Mattifying Liquid Foundation is advertised as

providing 100% natural wear and offering oil control for up to 24 hours.
There is minimal on-pack information about the skincare or cosmetic
benefits of green tea.

Woolworths collaboration with makeup

artist garners attention
Generate hype and attention by being among the first to collaborate
with well-known celebrities or makeup artists.
Indeed, seeking to add a more premium touch to the Woolworth's W.

Beauty (now vegan) private label brand is a team-up with Sir John, a
makeup artist for the stars (eg Beyoncé, Chrissy Teigen), and his first
collaboration.
The W.Beauty x Sir John collection includes tinted lip oils and balms,
lipsticks, eyeshadow palettes etc.

ASIA PACIFIC (APAC)

The opportunities: APAC

Glowy and skin health benefits can evolve
Be more disruptive and engaging as you blur with skincare. Showcase hero skincare ingredients (eg
pink diamond or gold for glow, retinyl retinoate for anti-wrinkle), incorporate skincare devices within
cosmetic packs and take on-trend skin glow themes to another level (eg look beyond face
makeup).
Explore emerging and trending concepts/themes

Do a lot more to allay climate change concerns, given rising consumer interest but limited NPD. There is
particular scope for more plastic-free or refillable packs, or waterless and upcycled formulas. Bring
a sense of fun to cosmetics with gastronomia, colour-change, super-sensorial patterns/textures, and
collaborations.
Continue to make convenience a key selling point

Convenience-focused NPD has largely plateaued; shift this direction given consumer interest in simpler
beauty routines. Packaging plays a pivotal role in simplifying and facilitating the makeup
application process. Be inspired by recent pack innovations with revolvable cases storing two
products, and built-in applicators.
APAC retail market overview: colour cosmetics, 2020

Look to high growth markets in India, China, Vietnam and Indonesia where women are increasingly
engaged in beauty. Slower growth is forecast in mature markets such as Japan.

APAC: promote a glowy finish and skin health

benefits in more engaging ways
Moisturising claims are established and must evolve

APAC: colour cosmetics NPD with hydration claims, by sub-category, 12 months to
January 2020
60%
58
56 48
40%
% of launches
29 29
23
20% 18
13
10 10 9 9 8 8
0%
on
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Source: Mintel GNPD

Skin hydration benefits are established in the APAC cosmetics market

overall, and especially in foundation and lip colour.
These hydration claims appeal to the 57% of female users of face base
makeup products in China who agree that skin benefits (eg
moisturisation, anti-ageing) are the most important qualities of face
makeup.
There is a gap in the market for other skincare related claims, such as
vitamin/mineral fortified, anti-ageing and for sensitive skin to expand.
Also, be more disruptive and engaging as you blur with skincare and take
inspiration from recent NPD that showcases hero skincare ingredients,
incorporates skincare devices/tools within cosmetic packaging,
expands skincare benefits beyond base and lip makeup and takes on-
trend skin glow themes to another level.
Source: Mintel GNPD
Skincare and 'glow' claims move beyond face makeup

The ongoing appetite for healthy-looking and glowy/dewy skin finishes continues and can better expand
beyond face makeup in order to broaden reach and appeal.
Glow themes move to mascara
Orbis Glosslash Mascara taps into on-trend glow themes with its silver
and blue aurora pearls revealing a dazzlingly dewy shimmer. It also
offers care benefits – it fortifies, repairs and hydrates lashes with
ingredients such as panthenol.
Serum skincare claims move to eyeliner
Upmost 2 in 1 Eyeliner & Serum is infused with Althaea rosea flower

extract and peptide to help enhance the appearance of lashes.

Pixy Make It Glow includes mascara and eyeliner
The halal certified Pixy Make It Glow face makeup range helps users
reveal healthy looking skin (with ingredients such as olive and jojoba
oils and yuzu extract). It has expanded to include eye products such as
mascara and eyeliner.
Face makeup NPD uses imaginative

marketing to convey a glowy finish
The Self Beauty Uniconic Aurora collection uses imaginative 'aurora and
unicorn-like' branding to evoke a sense of superior glow and shine.
Moreover, products in the collection also refer to an ability to create a

moisture-coated layer on skin (for the essence) or a 3D glow (for the
cushion compact) to further convey glow-like attributes.
Standout ingredients align with glow trends...
With natural mineral pink diamond to boost glow
Laneige Glowy Makeup Serum, with its light water-gel texture, is

designed to smooth and prepare skin for makeup. Its natural mineral
pink diamond formula boosts skin radiance, leaving it smooth and
glowing.
With 22-carat gold and premium rose essential oil
Lancôme Absolue Golden Primer is infused with 22-carat gold flakes

and premium rose essential oil to hydrate and nourish skin and also
help reveal a durable glowing makeup finish.

With triple alpha edelweiss from the Swiss Alps
Within Helena Rubinstein's Prodigy CellGlow skincare collection with a

signature triple alpha edelweiss formula is The Luminous Tint
Concentrate, a hybrid foundation with a water-rich formula that offers a
translucent, glowing finish.
...and blur with skincare

Convey super-effective and premium skincare attributes by using more premium skincare ingredients.
Jeju water conveys quality and hydration benefits
The Cyber Colors Prime Fix two-phase 8:2 (water-oil) mist serum uses
water from renowned Jeju Island to convey purity and super hydration
benefits. The oil layer contains nourishing argan and rose oils to
soothe, refresh and soften skin.
With retinyl retinoate
The Enprani Retino X8 Pro Pro Deep Wrinkle Repair Cushion SPF 50+
uses, among other ingredients, new generation retinyl retinoate to
provide 8x stronger photo-stable anti-wrinkle properties and 7.6x faster
absorption (vs retinol).

Blur with beauty devices to engage and

convey greater efficacy
The Spela Vibe Cushion taps into women's interest in skincare beauty
devices while also offering the familiarity of a cushion.
The all-in-one foundation, blusher and highlighter cushion compact

includes a vibrating puff applicator that is activated when the puff
touches the skin to give smoother coverage.
Spela Vibe Cushion SPF 50
The applicator also features a red LED light to firm skin and improve
dullness, working just like a beauty device.
The actual cushion also blurs with skincare, including seaweed extract
and marine collagen to firm and maintain healthy skin.
APAC: explore emerging and trending concepts/

themes

Do a lot more to allay climate change concerns

APAC: colour cosmetics NPD by select eco (and vegan) claims, 12 months to January
2020
7%
6
6%
5
5%
% of launches
4%
3
3%
2 2
2%
1%
0%
Eco package Sustainable Vegan Eco product Recycling
Source: Mintel GNPD
Do a lot more to allay climate change concerns
Source: Mintel GNPD

Climate change concerns are yet to make an impact on colour cosmetics

NPD in APAC.
Few brands are taking the issue seriously and are advertising eco claims,
despite consumer interest.
In China, 68% of adults would be impressed by a company that supports

environment sustainability.
There is particular scope for brands to market plastic-free or refillable

packaging, or waterless and upcycled formulas.
Affiliated vegan claims can also rise, align with trending animal cruelty-
free claims and be positioned as more sustainable.
Source: Mintel GNPD
Few innovations make sustainability a focus
Saves resources by printing directions inside box
The Attenir BPC brand advertises how its cosmetics come in boxes with
instructions printed on the inside of the box, rather than in extra insert
leaflets. This is done in order to save paper and natural resources.
Amorepacific commits to reducing plastic pollution
Amorepacific has committed to recycling all its empty bottles by 2025

via a collaboration with the TerraCycle platform. It also aims to reuse
half of its empty bottles in its products and furnishing.
Eco Earth suncare brand blurs with makeup
The Saem Eco Earth suncare brand with bold eco branding (linked to
its mineral and plant-based formulas) blurs further with cosmetics. The
Pink Sun Base SPF 50+ line doubles up as a makeup base to reveal a
bright, fair and pink skin tone.
Source: www.prnewswire.com

Develop eye-catching packs but without the excess

Engaging packs are important to makeup users; the more creative the better. But, the challenge is creating
these without excess materials to counter pack pollution concerns.
Computer keyboard inspired set
The YES!IC cosmetic brand for a younger consumer has collaborated

with design-led keyboard brand Lofree to create Colourful Eye Shadow
and Blush Keyboard Box, a set creatively laid out to resemble a
computer keyboard.
Butterfly design cushion applicator
O Hui Day Shield Ohui Smart Pumping Foundation Cushion SPF 50+ /
PA+++ comes in a patented container that features a butterfly-shaped
applicator puff for convenient, quick makeup application and a sense of
fun.
Excessive but standout gold outer pack
Rarekind, a 'rule-breaking' Amorepacific line, aims to encapsulate a

playful, adventurous and energetic personality, using bold pack colours
with minimal text. It includes a Ready to Crush range in gold outer
flexible packs.

Gastronomia trend is alive and well and continues to inspire

NPD
Continue to blur with food/drink markets to add a sense of fun, but turn to more unusual fruits, foods,
vegetables and dairy products to disrupt this increasingly busy space.
Patisserie-inspired range for a touch of indulgence
Fancl Makeup Patisserie is inspired by sweet bakery with variants/

shades such as Caramel Latte, Sugar Orange and Tea Brown. While
not a first, it highlights the longevity of gastronomia and patisserie
themes in cosmetics.
Dessert sauce inspired primers
I Heart Revolution's Primer collection with vitamins C and E comes in a

range of foodie-inspired scents, from Mint Choc Chip Colour Correcting
to Banana Split Radiance, Peach Delight Mattifying etc.
Inspired by the colour hues of figs
The Innisfree Lion of the Month #Fig Edition has been inspired by the
warm and varying hues of figs. It includes an eyeshadow palette,
eyeliners and lip colours.

Colour-changing concepts expand bringing playfulness and

versatility
Niche colour-changing
makeup is expanding beyond
lip or nail colour where it first
emerged; it's now also seen in
blusher.
Kailijumei's blush, a 'world

first' for blusher, detects body
heat and adjusts colour
intensity accordingly.
Kailijumei Magical Thermo Orbis Talk Lip Gloss
Colour-change positioning is Cheek
also evolving; the Orbis' Talk
Lip Gloss is positioned as
changing colour as the user
talks, rather than directly
with body heat, bringing
more differentiation into play.
Visually engaging textures are all the rage in lipsticks

Bring something extra to lipstick beyond
shade, scent or lip care benefits.
Indeed, we are seeing brands develop visually

engaging, super-sensorial patterns and
textures on the outer layer of their lipstick
products.
Lisa Eldridge's velvet-effect line, launched in the

US back in 2018, was a first such innovation, and
more players are tapping into this trend in Asia
Starring Gold Rouge Excess Lipstick with (and globally).
enhanced and delicate outer patterns A challenge, however, is encouraging usage since
the outer textured layer can be so beautiful
that users may not want to damage it.
Source: Flamingo; Perfect Diary

Collaborations are prevalent but still garner appeal

Collaborations, often limited editions, are prevalent in cosmetics generating buzz, exclusivity and
broadening brand reach. Ensure your partner aligns with your values.
More chocolate confectionery collaborations
Hot on the heels of 2019's collaboration with KitKat (Nestlé), Etude

House is now partnering with another chocolate maker. The Etude
House x Hershey's limited edition range comes in Original and Cookies
'n' Creme chocolate variant shades.
Gaming collaborations continue for Shu Uemura
2016's Pokémon Go craze may have dissipated but a revival is in the

cards given the Shu Uemura x Pokémon collaboration. It follows the
2017 Super Mario Bros. collection and uses elegant gold pack colours
and designs of Pokémon characters.
Influencer collaboration targets mummies
Non-prestige players also turn to collaborations to broaden appeal. The

MCoBeauty "luxe for less" trend-led Australian brand has partnered with
'mummy influencer' Kylie Camps to raise both brands' profiles and
appeal to busy mums too.

Empower women...and men

Brands are taking a subtler approach as they tap into empowerment themes in an effort to appeal to all.
More choice is being offered in the still niche men's makeup segment.
Love Who You Are branding and rainbow pack colours
The Holika Holika Love Who You Are collection has an empowering
brand name to encourage self-confidence. The use of a rainbow pack
design could be a call out to the LGBTQ community, although this isn't
clarified in the brand marketing.
Encourages women to embrace any perceived flaws
The Blank makeup brand from Amorepacific aims to encourage

consumers to express their uniqueness and proudly show off any flaws
rather than masking them. It's particularly reaching out to Millennials
and comes in minimalist black packaging.
Men's makeup expands to include mascara
The Fiveism x Three men's makeup brand has expanded to include a

Covert Definition Tool for Eyelashes Mascara. As the stigma around
men wearing makeup diminishes, brands can expand their offering
beyond base, brow and tinted lip balms.
APAC: continue to make convenience a key selling

point

Convenience claims largely plateau despite ongoing interest

Consumer interest in easy, quick, durable and multi-use makeup products and following simpler beauty
routines holds strong.
However, convenience-focused claims have largely plateaued in the APAC colour cosmetics market over
the last five years.
Shift this direction, and look beyond established long-lasting claims too.
In China, a notable 42% of women who wear makeup prefer all-in-one products. Yet, multi-use NPD is flat
and limited (6% of recent colour cosmetics launches).
APAC: colour cosmetics NPD by select convenient claims, 2015-16 vs 2019-20
Feb 2015-Jan 2016 Feb 2019-Jan 2020

50%
44
46
% of launches
25% 22
20 18 20
6
4 4
2
0%
Long-lasting Time/speed Ease of use Refill/refillable On-the-go

Source: Mintel GNPD
Pack innovations put convenience at the forefront

Packaging can play a pivotal role in simplifying and facilitating the makeup application process. Be
inspired by recent pack innovations.
Revolving feature reveals cushion or toner
Forencos Tattoo Revolve Cushion contains a foundation and a toner,

each in a separate section of the compact, which revolves to show only
the item needed. The revolving action brings both convenience and an
engaging sensorial element.

Built-in brush but in a removable lid
Packs with built-in brushes, mostly stick cosmetics, are moving into
other formats to broaden their appeal. Bottled Colorkey Airy-Light Mat
Radiance Fluid Foundation, for instance, stores its brush in a
removable lid section of the bottle.
Playful and multi-use love heart design
Mistine All for Love Persona Make Up Twist stores two multi-use items
in a twistable love-heart-shaped playful case. One section holds colour
makeup (for eyes, cheeks, lips), and another highlighter (for face).
Source: Forencos; Amazon; Colorkey
Portable sachets, established in SEA, expand

Affordable- and portable-
positioned small makeup
sachets, often with spouts that
double up as applicators, are
expanding beyond South East
Asian markets (eg Thailand,
the Philippines) where they
are most established. They
are bringing more on-the-go
Tonymoly's Liptone Get it Tint: Maybelline FIT me!: now in a convenience and
now available in a 'to go' 3g budget-friendly and on-the-go affordability to other parts
sachet 5ml sachet of Asia too.
We have also seen major

global brands turning to these
smaller sachets to appeal to
different budgets or to drive
trials.

Bring on the roll-on

Roll-on formats are niche in colour cosmetics but can expand and bring
added sensoriality and a quick hands-free application.
A recent innovation bringing these attributes to the multi-use makeup

segment is MyGlamm Magic Potion Roll-On Illuminator for use on the
face or body.
MyGlamm Magic Potion

Roll-On Illuminator

THE AMERICAS

The opportunities: Americas

Make cosmetic application quick, easy and simpler
Simplify the makeup application process and appeal to consumer interest in convenience. Develop
stackable or snap-on packs for at-home or on-the-go use or packs with built-in tools for fuss-free
application. Ensure multi-use innovations don't cannibalise overall sales by making it clear why they
command a premium.
Don't be left behind as 'clean' trends continue

Pre-empt any potential backlash against the ‘clean beauty’ message by being transparent about your
interpretation of 'clean'. Clarify why ingredients are or are not used, align your 'clean' offerings with on-
trend eco and vegan claims, and evoke trust by collaborating with renowned accreditation bodies.
Encourage trial with on-trend concepts/themes

Persist in encouraging new product trial by tapping into on-trend themes. For example, empowerment
and diversity themes (eg recent disruptive lines target albinos or pregnant women’s belly skin), glass
skin and sun-kissed themes, bold eye looks and a focus on skin health and protection.
Americas retail market overview: colour cosmetics, 2020

Mexico, Chile and Colombia are high growth markets to watch. The US, the biggest cosmetics market,
shows steady growth, driven by trends such as clean beauty and convenience.

Americas: make cosmetic application quick, easy

and simpler
Be more disruptive with your convenient innovations

Convenient-positioned innovations, especially long-lasting, are active in the Americas, appealing to
consumer interest. In the US for example, 52% of female makeup users agree that long-wearing benefits
are important when selecting makeup.
Seek to make convenient products more engaging to stand out from the crowd and offer something
more unique.
There is also a particular gap in the Latin American market for more convenient innovation; NPD in
this area is below-average despite consumer interest. In Brazil, 76% of women are interested in buying
makeup in a format that's easy to apply on the go.
Americas: colour cosmetics NPD by select convenient claims, by region, 12 months to

January 2020
Latin America North America

50%
46
% of launches
30
24 22
25%
10 9 7
1
0%
Long-lasting Time/speed Ease of use On-the-go

Source: Mintel GNPD

Ensure multi-use innovations don't hinder your overall makeup

sales
Rising multi-use and hybrid
(eg makeup/skincare) NPD
appeals to busy or less
experienced makeup users
seeking to simplify and de-
clutter their makeup routines.
However, ensure that

innovations don't
cannibalise overall
cosmetic sales as people alleyoop Pen Pal 4-in-1 Watier x SJL: Les Essentiels
switch to multi-use and Makeup Pen inspired by Duo All-in-One stick for eyes/
potentially buy fewer makeup Clarins all-in-1 pen face/lips
products.
Do this by charging a
premium for multi-use, but
clearly advertise added
value convenience or less-
wasteful eco benefits too.
Snap on/off packs offer versatility,

customisation and on-the-go convenience
Create more engaging packs that align with people's interest in more
convenient, customisable and versatile makeup products.
Be influenced by Fenty Beauty's Snap Shadows Mix & Match

Eyeshadow Palette. It is especially positioned as 'pocket-perfect' and
versatile.
Fenty Beauty Snap
The mini eyeshadow palette, in clearly numbered 1-8 variants (each
Shadows Mix & Match Eye
storing six shades) can be used alone, or two palettes can be snapped
Shadow Palette
together to double up as a collection while keeping it compact –
ideal for on-the-go.

Targeting active fans with convenient propositions continues

Convenient makeup innovations continue to target exercise/gym-fans who demand portable formats and
formulas that can make them look their best pre-, post- or mid-exercise.
Developed by radio show co-host Jenna Owens
Fitish from radio show co-host Jenna Owens includes skin, apparel and
equipment products (some with trendy CBD), such as Don't Sweat It
Prep Setting Spray. The founder has just announced her departure
from radio as she focuses on Fitish.
Exercise-theme variant names appeal to gym-goers
The Wet n Wild Pump BPC range in apt exercise-themed variant

names (eg Makeup Locker, Full Circuit No Limit Palette etc) has been
developed with social media 'fitness guru' Cassey Ho – bringing an
element of trust and efficacy.
Streamline the makeup routine with minimal

step innovations and concepts
Target women who are moving away from multi-step and laborious
beauty routines by developing fewer products (but with the efficacy of
many) and by using marketing that stresses simplicity.
Bite Beauty, the clean, vegan and nutrient-rich lip colour/care brand, has
moved into face makeup with its debut Bite Beauty Changemaker
Changemaker simple 3-step collection. It is very much focused on simplicity and minimal step
system routines, as well as 'clean beauty' efficacy.
It comprises just three products with superfood maqui berry and

multiple benefits. They work together within a Changemaker Complexion
System – a simple three-step system – to deliver longwear, flawless
coverage and a natural skin-like finish.
Products comprise Skin-Optimizing Primer, Supercharged Micellar

Foundation andFlexible Coverage Pressed Powder.

Include more disruptive convenient-focused

built-in tools with your products
Cosmetics with built-in tools for easy/fuss-free application are not new,
but look to be more disruptive with your add-on's, and be influenced
by recent NPD.
Tarte Shape Glow Wand liquid brightener/instant eye lift features a built-
in sponge that is also removable and comes with a protective case to
Glow Wand appeal to both convenient- and hygiene-aware consumers.
Americas: don't be left behind as the spotlight on

eco and 'clean' beauty continues
'Clean beauty' movement is increasingly

IN THE US
31%
influencing NPD in colour cosmetics
Clean beauty innovations tap into consumer concerns and attitudes
of women agree that
around the ingredients used in makeup, both in the US and Brazil.
there should be more
clean makeup options Despite ambiguity around the meaning of 'clean beauty' and a lack of
regulation in this area, brands are increasingly referring to the term in
their marketing.
Be mindful of a backlash, however, given a discerning beauty

consumer and lack of trust in the industry.
Pre-empt any potential backlash by being transparent about your

interpretation of 'clean' (eg detail the ingredients used/not used in your
clean offerings) and also look to align your 'clean' offering with on-
trend eco and vegan claims.
Base: US: 1,038 female internet users aged 18+


Fast-growth claims align with a 'clean beauty' movement

In the overall Americas colour cosmetics market, vegan, cruelty-free, paraben-free and botanical claims
are among the fastest-growing – and align with clean beauty trends.
Among recent clearly marketed 'clean' makeup innovations, the majority feature such claims.
There is a gap in the clean beauty space, however, for more eco NPD to address heightened climate
change concerns.
Americas: colour cosmetics NPD by fastest growing claims, 2015-16 vs

2019-20
Feb 2015-Jan 2016 Feb 2019-Jan 2020

40%
31
% of launches
22
19
20% 16 17
14
10
2
0%
Ethical-animal Botanical Vegan Paraben-free

Source: Mintel GNPD
Be clear about your meaning of clean, and

offer other benefits too
Aligning with clean beauty is almost an expected must for BPC startups.
Indeed, NakedPoppy offers "high-quality" "squeaky clean" products, and
especially clarifies what it considers as clean.
It follows four pillars of clean: your health (ie each ingredient is

evaluated in-depth for any negative health effects), animal health (ie
NakedPoppy Clean Liquid cruelty-free), environmental health, and community & social health.
Eyeliner
Moreover, it also taps into other on-trend beauty themes to broaden
its appeal. In particular, it targets busy beauty consumers who are not
especially trend- or influencer-led when buying makeup, but are more
interested in convenience.
The brand tagline "for your busy beautiful life" highlights this, as does
a website algorithm designed to speed up the shopping experience,
remove unwanted clutter/noise and showcase only curated
products – after the completion of a three minute assessment.

Collaborate with respected accreditation

bodies to boost trust in your 'clean'
formulas
Evoke trust in your brand's clean credentials by collaborating with
renowned accreditation bodies - a route taken by Revlon.
Revlon PhotoReady Prime Plus makeup and skincare primer collection

(in three multi-benefit variants) meets EWG’s (Environmental Working
Revlon PhotoReady Prime
Group) clean beauty standards. Indeed, it is advertised as "the first
Plus collection
global brand to bring EWG VERIFIED clean cosmetics to
consumers".
To mitigate confusion, however, it is important that online tools and

accreditation bodies (designed to help consumers make informed
choices around the products/ingredients they buy) are consistent and
harmonised. Otherwise, greater confusion and mistrust will prevail
if one tool gives a particular ingredient a clean bill of health while another
doesn't.
EWG is a nonprofit organisation that aims to empower consumers, through education, to make informed
product purchases
Better meet consumer interest in eco cosmetics

A gap exists for more eco makeup innovations. NPD is not meeting interest. Few makeup launches in the
Americas feature an eco product (3%) or pack (6%) claim*.
Refill and carbon neutral claims can expand
New shade variants and products have been added to the Alima Pure
mineral cosmetics brand. The brand stresses its carbon neutral
attributes and refillable eco packs, with a gap in the market for more
NPD in these areas.
Eco glitter innovations are emerging
Quem Disse, Berenice? Eco Eye Glitter is vegan and uses mica, an
eco-friendly, microplastic glitter alternative. However, be mindful of the
controversy around mica (linked to child labour complications) and
ensure it's sourced ethically.

Sugar cane packs are emerging
Kaloe Pressed Powder Calendula, Aloe Vera, Tea Tree Extract SPF 12
uses 100% sugar cane plastic for its packaging. While more costly than
standard plastic, sugar cane plastic is 100% recyclable and produces
less carbon.
* launched in the 12 months to January 2020
The boom in vegan claims is set to continue

Shift the vegan message from established 'cruelty-free' and toward sustainability to sustain vegan
beauty growth and align with the buzz around vegan/plant-based lifestyles.
Built-in brush uses vegan bristles
Chantecaille HD Perfecting Loose Powder is presented in a tube with a

built-in tube with a self-dispensing vegan brush that releases the right
amount of powder with zero mess.
Vegan formula including plant waxes (vs beeswax)
Tarte SEA Surfer Curl Volumizing Mascara has a vegan formula using
plant waxes (vs beeswax) to help lengthen lashes. It also uses other
vegan ingredients such as algae (soothes irritated skin) and vitamin E
(a natural preservative).
Americas: encourage new product trial with more

disruptive concepts and on-trend themes

IN THE US The challenge of encouraging

53% experimentation
of female makeup Many women do not deviate from their established makeup looks,
users tend to stick to making it a challenge for brands to drive new product trial in a very
the same makeup look competitive makeup market.
– with only 24% liking That said, it is especially important to persist in encouraging
to experiment with new experimentation and especially appealing to more experimental young
looks consumers. Also tap into on-trend themes hitting cosmetics and
other BPC markets in general (eg empowerment and diversity themes,
glass skin and sun-kissed looks, bold eye looks, and a focus on skin
health and protection).
Base: US: 948 female internet users aged 18+ who use makeup products
Ensure your bolder collections target the young but also try to
appeal to older women
While bolder neon colors, holographic effects and glitter makeup appeal more to young women, brands are
also trying to encourage greater experimentation among all consumers.
Super colourful collection
The Urban Decay Wired collection (eye shadows, pencils, liners, lip
tints) is all about driving usage of bolder and brighter shades, during the
day and night. It includes shades such as Switch (orange), Jolt (yellow)
and Savage (hot pink).
Follow Chanel's "no black eye makeup” rule
Chanel's Blurry Grey eye makeup collection encourages women to play

with colour and follow one rule: "no black eye makeup". It includes
mascara, eyeshadow and eyeliner in blue, green, grey and mauve
shades.

Street-style inspired bold colours for eye makeup
The Catharine Hill Tattoo Eyes collection has been inspired by bold
street/urban fashions and includes a colourful eye shadow palette, a gel
black eyeliner and a universal colour eyebrow mascara.
A gap exists for more body makeup innovation

Boost niche body makeup NPD to offset saturated activity in face makeup. In particular, extend glow face
makeup finishes to the body, and naturally mask body blemishes.
KKW Beauty Body Collection
The KKW Beauty Body Collection focuses on 'enhancing imperfections'

and adding glow/sparkle to body skin. It includes skin perfecting body
foundation, skin perfecting body shimmer and loose shimmer powder
for face and body.
Jumbo easy-use glow stick for the body
The Becca Champagne Pop Collector's Edition includes Glow Body

Stick influenced by a mess-free stick and glow/dewy face makeup
trends. The jumbo solid oil body highlighting stick aims to create a
glistening effect on the body.

Align with a temporary body tattoo trend

Hybrid fragrance/tattoo
innovations are rising, and
also influencing NPD in colour
cosmetics.
These appeal to those looking

to have fun with body makeup
without resorting to the
permanency of tattoos.
Hatch Belly of the Month Non BodyMark Henna Vibes A specialised innovation from
Toxic Temporary Belly Temporary Tattoo Marker Hatch stands out by not only
Tattoos from BiC encouraging experimentation
but also by celebrating
pregnancy.
Competition in this niche

space may also heat up as
non-BPC stationery player
BiC moves into the
segment.
Bring on more glow...

The dewy/glow trend continues to gain momentum. Make it easier for women to achieve this finish or
promote super-glow or glass-skin finishes.
High glass finish expands to the US
The transparent 'glass skin' look pioneered in Asia is now simpler to

replicate in the US with the launch of NYX's High Glass 3-step
collection. It comprises of primer, finishing powder and illuminator with
illuminating finishing powders.
Instant dewy glow
J.Cat Beauty Halo Glow Liquid Highlighter uses an infusion of argan oil
to help women replicate a healthy, hydrated and luminous glow. It is
designed to be used alone or mixed with a favorite primer, foundation or
moisturiser.

With pearl pigments for a durable luminous finish
The Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder was launched as

a Make It Glow Powder and Brush for Holiday 2019. It contains pearl
pigments to reveal a naturally luminous finish that lasts 12 hours.
...and bronzing...
Innovate within a niche
bronzer segment (<1% of
cosmetics launches*), which
has taken a back seat in
recent years whilst
highlighting products have
occupied the front row.
Blur with glow trends, and

emphasise how bronzer can
help women achieve a O Boticário Make B. Sun Hit: Flower Heatwave Bronzing
healthy looking post-beach a sunkissed effect anytime, Essence for a sunkissed
look and subtle and anywhere healthy glow
tastefully tanned skin.
* in the Americas in the 12 months to January 2020
...and nude finishes too

Natural 'second skin' finishes remain in-demand and continue to drive NPD.
Nude face makeup trend influences lip colour NPD
Clinique Even Better Pop Lip Colour Foundation with its natural finish is
designed to match Clinique's Even Better foundation shades to create a
seamless nude look for all skin tones.

Skin perfector rather than foundation
Butter London's LumiMatte de-clutters base makeup by offering just

four shades for its Skin Tint 'skin perfector' and three for its Finishing/
Setting powder – together making 16 skin tones. Reveals a luminous
matte 'no makeup makeup' look.
Offers a nearly undetectable 'second skin' finish
Chanel Les Beiges Water-Fresh Tint Water-Fresh Tint with a 75% water
formula uses micro-droplet technology to create a nude-skin effect and
offers eight hours of hydration.
Blur moreso with skincare

Hybrid skin/makeup NPD must evolve to stand out in busy hydrating face or lip colour markets especially.
Showcase hero ingredients or water-base formulas for super-hydration.
With hyaluronic acid and collagen
Maybelline Dream Radiant Liquid Hydrating Foundation is especially

suitable for dry skin as it is enriched with hydrating and soothing
hyaluronic acid. It also contains collagen to help firm and plump skin.
Hydrating hyaluronic acid and coconut water
The Colourpop Pretty Fresh face makeup range (eg tinted moisturiser,
primer, setting mist) uses hyaluronic acid as its hero moisturising and
skin-supporting ingredient, together with coconut water to also hydrate
and soften skin.

Water-based formula
The O Boticário Intense Super Fresh! range (eg makeup fixer, lipstick,
liquid foundation) uses and advertises its water-based formulation as a
way to convey super hydrating and lightweight benefits.
Protection claims are niche despite demand

Ease concerns around
pollution, blue light and UV
rays. NPD is not fully meeting
those demands.
The Physicians Formula

Natural Defense range (eg
primer oil, foundation,
multicolour stick etc) protects
against harmful rays, blue
Physicians Formula Natural O Boticário Make B. light and pollution for all-round
Defence multi-protection Hyaluronic Protective Liquid protection.
Foundation SPF 70
The O Boticário foundation is
the first with both SPF 70 and
hyaluronic acid to penetrate
into skin and fill deep lines.
The range also includes a
SPF 15 lipstick with hyaluronic
acid.

Disrupt a declining (in terms of NPD) mascara/lash segment

Mascara is a staple cosmetic but eyelash NPD is limited and falling as competition with false lashes rises.
That said, disruptive recent NPD is trying to boost engagement.
Drybar x IT Cosmetics collaboration
it Cosmetics Lash Blowout Mascara launched with Drybar has a wand

design inspired by the technology used to create barrel hairbrushes. It
works with a biotin-infused formula to deliver a durable voluminous (19x
your lash volume) look.
Ancillary lash growth NPD can grow
Peter Thomas Roth To Die For Turbo Conditioning Lash Enhancer

contains 11% peptide complex and biotin to improve lash length and
thickness, a 10% conditioning complex to hydrate and vitamins to
nourish. A dual brush helps reach every lash.
Mascara with built-in lash curler in the tube
trèStique Eye Good Vibes Mascara with a built-in lash curler removes
the need to buy a separate tool and streamlines the lash makeup
process. Also mitigates cannibalisation of sales by driving more
frequent re-purchase of lash curlers.

Stand out in a busy celebrity beauty space

More and more celebrities are moving into cosmetics. To maintain interest, celebrities must be fully
invested rather than act as just the 'face' of their brand.
Kesha affordable makeup line
US singer-songwriter Kesha has moved into makeup with the Kesha

Rose Beauty five product line, including liner pens for use all over the
body. It is focused on affordability and bold looks to appeal to younger
fans.
First makeup line from Lady Gaga
Haus Laboratories, the first makeup line from Lady Gaga, spreads
messages of self-love, kindness and empowerment. It launched
exclusively on Amazon in order to be disruptive and give the A-lister
creative control over the brand/concept.
Kylie Jenner brings her daughter into the mix
Kylie Jenner's Stormi limited edition Valentine's Day collection has been
inspired by the celebrity's toddler daughter, bringing a sense of child-
like fun into play. It features pastel colour and butterfly pack designs.
Source: Instagram @kesharosebeauty

Look beyond collaborating with just

influencers: Netflix gets in on the action
In the last 12 months, there has been an influx of influencer cosmetic
collaborations, from OFRA x Madison Miller to BH Cosmetics x
Laviedunprince and Tarte Sugar Rush x Hannah Meloche.
Aligning with inflencers will remain an important way to target engaged

beauty consumers, with 70% of US adults who go online to learn about
beauty buying beauty products recommended by an influencer.
However, also think beyond influencers in order to broaden your

brand's appeal.
Of particular note is Neflix's move into the beauty sphere, the media
service provider collaborating with Sephora and various beauty brands
(eg Milk Makeup, Kaja and NYX) to promote both beauty sets and
Netflix films (eg To All the Boys, Chilling Adventures of Sabrina).
Diversity and empowerment themes expand to include teens

and albinos
Look to boost self-confidence among teens, and to also target more marginalised groups (eg albinos).
Toy company launches empowering makeup for girls
Brazilian toy company, Estrela, has moved into cosmetics. The Estrela
Beauty range for girls promotes diversity and boosting self-confidence.
The colourful packs feature optimistic messages such as "smile and
everything looks beautiful."
Lifestyle brand just for tween girls
Target's More Than Magic broad lifestyle brand targets tween girls. Its
whimsical and inclusive designs and wallet-friendly prices appeal to
both girls and their parents. Includes Body Glitter in Rose Gold Remix
and Sparkling Sky Silver.

Eyelashes for the albino community
Albino beauty influencer J. Renée's Ivoree Beauty brand targets an

under-represented albino community. Its first line, Blondee 3D Mink
Lashes in Blondee (blond) and Icee 3D Mink (white) shades are more
apt for "the fairest of them all."
Source: Ivoree Beauty
Meet the expert

Rosalia Di Gesu
Global Beauty & Personal Care Analyst
Rosalia has close to 20 years' experience with Mintel as a consumer

products expert. She focuses on delivering cross-category insight and
commentary on innovative new product launches and trends. She has
authored many editorial pieces over the years, now concentrating on
product innovation in consumer goods markets worldwide.
Read more by this expert | Get in touch

Disclaimer
This is marketing intelligence published by Mintel.
The consumer research exclusively commissioned
by Mintel was conducted by a Chinese licensed
market survey agent (see Research Methodology
China for more information).
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A Year of Innovation in Colour Cosmetics 2020

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10 MARCH 2020 | REPORT

1 © 2020 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel.

Europe: align with trending concepts and themes .......................................................................... 14

Europe: appeal to busy consumers................................................................................................. 20

Spotlight on MEA ............................................................................................................................ 23

ASIA PACIFIC (APAC) ......................................................................................................................... 26

APAC: explore emerging and trending concepts/themes ............................................................... 32

APAC: continue to make convenience a key selling point .............................................................. 39

Americas: make cosmetic application quick, easy and simpler ...................................................... 45

2 © 2020 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel.

Boost experimentation with fun and engaging NPD

Simplify the makeup application process

Our pick of the most innovative launches in this review

Kailijumei's Magical Thermo Cheek blush, a 'world first' for blusher

Makeup tattoo for pregnant women

Belly of the Month Non Toxic Temporary Belly Tattoos is a specialised

3 © 2020 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel.

False eyelashes for the albino community

Albino beauty influencer J. Renée's Ivoree Beauty brand targets an

Source: Ivoree Beauty

How Mintel Trends are impacting colour cosmetics

Aligning with Mintel BPC's 2019 Sub-Zero Waste Trend is 0% Plastic

Sense of the Intense

Super-sensorial patterned textures tap into Mintel's Sense of the

Bringing existing trust from stationery to makeup and embodying

Source: Plastic Soup Foundation

4 © 2020 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel.

Global retail market overview: colour cosmetics, 2020

5 © 2020 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel.

EUROPE, MIDDLE EAST & AFRICA (EMEA)

6 © 2020 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel.

The opportunities: EMEA

Align with trending concepts and themes

Appeal to busy consumers

EMEA retail market overview: colour cosmetics, 2020

7 © 2020 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel.

Europe: opportunities exist for more eco and

A missed opportunity exists: forefront the sustainability message

Vegan Sustainable Eco package Eco product Recycling

Source: Mintel GNPD

8 © 2020 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel.

A missed opportunity exists: put the

Do more in this area to appeal to notable consumer interest.

Also look to be more disruptive and align with emerging sustainability

Source: Mintel GNPD

Don't be left behind as companies make sustainable investments

Lush explores use of carbon-positive cork

Lush is turning to cork to produce carbon-positive packaging. The

L'Oréal x Albéa creates paper-based tube

L’Oréal has teamed up with Albéa (a pack solution company) to

9 © 2020 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Confidential to Mintel.

Selfridges battles the scourge of plastic glitter

UK department store Selfridges pledges to remove plastic-based

The scourge of plastic-based glitters drives some NPD...

Uses plant cellulose from eucalyptus trees

EcoStardust is biodegradable, vegan and cruelty-free glitter in Bioglitter

Stresses 0% plastic claims

0% Plastic Eco-Glitter Balm uses certification (Plastic Soup Foundation)

Stresses its softer texture vs traditional glitter