The Science of Salt: Putting Science into Practice

SALTING THE FISH

Salting is an essential feature in smoking fish. Unsalted fish will usually
sour or spoil if kept at smoking temperatures for any length of time. The
strength of the brine and the amount of time the fish is left in it and some
of the ingredients are all matters of preference.
One method of determining the ratio of water to salt is to just keep
adding salt to the amount of water it will take to cover the fish until no
more salt will dissolve in it. Some people always swear by the efficacy
of dropping a raw potato or egg into the water and adding salt until the
object floats.
Or you can be conventional and measure. Try using 1 pound (456 g) of
salt for every 5 quarts (4.75 L) of water.
If you’re new at it, you can leave discretion entirely to someone else and
pick one of the recipes that comes complete with brining instructions.
Most do.
Brine ingredients–always water and salt, of course–may also include
brown sugar and or some spices. The length of the brining also varies,
from 25 minutes to 8 or 10 hours. Because of that, by the way, grayling
is better simply sprinkled with salt rather than brine–soaked prior to
smoking.

Desalting and Air–Drying

Once fish is removed from brine, rinse or scrub it well to be sure all
visible particles of salt are gone. If the brining has been more than a few
hours, it may be necessary to soak the fish under running water or in
several changes of fresh water to remove saltiness. You may cook a
small piece to see how salty it is, or run your fingers over the flesh and
then taste them for saltiness.
It is also important to air–dry the fish enough to glaze the meat before
smoking begins. Choose a shaded, breezy location and protect the fish
from insects by covering it with cheesecloth. The temperature should be
below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius). If the meat is not
sufficiently dry before smoking begins, it will tend to steam and soften
instead of becoming firm once heat is applied, and white spots may
develop on the flesh. The drying may take several hours, overnight, or
up to two days in damp weather. Fish may be hung in the smokehouse
during this period if ventilation is good. A blower or fan may be used to
speed up the process.
Making the Smoke–Hot or Cold
The choice of wood leaves still more room for personal preference. IT
should NOT be evergreen because the resinous smoke transmits an
unpleasant taste. Alder is the most popular choice in Alaska, but hickory
chips, crab apple, cottonwood and sawdust are other possible selections.
Many of the recipes (following) indicates the cook’s choice.
The temperature of the smoke also makes a difference in the final
product. Most processes beings with an initial period of cool drying
when the temperature in the smokehouse is about 90 degrees Fahrenheit
(32 degrees Celsius). Then smoke is introduced and the heat is adjusted
so that the internal temperature of the fish is brought up to about 85
degrees Fahrenheit (29 degrees Celsius) for cold-smoked fish and to
about 150 degrees Fahrenheit (65 degrees Celsius) for hot–smoked or
kippered fish. In other words, kippered or hot-smoked fish is cooked,
ready to eat as soon as it comes from the smokehouse and subject to
more rapid spoilage; while cold–smoked fish has been moderately
preserved–still in need of refrigeration but able to retain safe quality for
a period.
The length of time the fish are smoked depends on how dry you want
them. A light (that is, shortened) cold smoke is recommended for fish
that is to be canned, since the canning process brings up smoke flavor.
Flavor and texture is also regulated by how close the fish are hung to the
heat. For cold smoking, it stands to reason, the fish are hung farther from
the heat source than those being kippered.
For all these matters–choosing the wood, controlling heat and smoke,
Adolph Mathisen’s directions–Adolph’s Cold-Smoked Salmon,
Steelhead and Black Cod–contain excellent advice.
Storing Smoked Fish
After smoking, allow the pieces of fish to cool for a short time while
they are in the smokehouse Cold–smoked fish may be left to cool a
longer time than kippered or hot–smoked fish. After that smoked fish
may be wrapped tightly and stored in the refrigerator. Cold–smoked fish
will generally keep about three weeks. Kippered fish, a much shorter
time. To retain the best flavor, however, do what the commercial
packers do–freeze or can smoke fish immediately, unless you plan to use
it right away.
Smoke-Cured Fish–Indian Style
Only thoroughly smoke–cured fish–the Indian style prepared by
Eskimos, Indians and other bush dwellers as the winter supply for
themselves and their dogs–may be kept successfully unfrozen for longer
than about three weeks.
Preparing this product is tricky. It is actually smoke–drying. It requires
four days to a week of continuous fire, and the resulting product is only
about one–third its original weight, is quite firm and has a glossy
surface. Fish and fire must be tended very carefully or the fish simply
cooks to tasteless shrivel rather than drying slowly. This dehydrated fish
will keep for an undetermined period, (not indefinite), but it, too, must
be stored tightly wrapped, in a dry place, at a temperature that does not
rise above 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius). It is boiled 10
minutes before being eaten.
Adolph’s Cold–Smoked Steelhead, Salmon and Black Cod Method
It is important that you smoke fish only in cool weather. The ideal
temperature is between 30 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit (–1 to 4.5 degrees
Celsius). This keeps the smoke cool.
The ideal fish for smoking is steelhead. The steelhead has a flavor all its
own, and the oil content in the fleshy part of the fish is perfect for a
good, moist smoked product.
Prepare your fish for salting–steelhead or king salmon, whichever you
prefer to happen to have–by splitting the fish lengthwise. Then remove
the backbone so that there is none on either side. Use a very sharp knife.
Set the fish on a tray, fleshy side up, and just cover with a medium grind
noniodized salt. Lift and shake the fish lightly to remove excess salt. The
salt should be evenly distributed on the fleshy side of the fish.
Now you need a tub with a rack that fits inside. Set the fish, fleshy side
down on the rack so that it is not resting on the bottom of the tub. It is
important to vary according to the size of the fish the length of time that
it stays in the brine that forms. A 6 to 8 pound (2.7 to 3.6 kg) fish should
stay 14 hours. A 10 to 12 pound (4.5 to 5.5 kg)fish, I would leave there
about 8 hours. If the fish is over 18 pounds (8 kg), leave it 24 hours.
After that time, I remove the fish and rinse it lightly. Then I put it in a
tray and allow it to drain for about two hours.
Then the fish is ready to hang. I use stainless steel tuna hooks because
they do not mar or discolor the flesh. They have two prongs: each one is
a hook with an eye in it. Using the cotton–type line made for wrapping
meat, I hang the fish on 8–inch (20 cm) loops threaded through these
prongs.
I hang the fish in the smokehouse and allow it to air–dry for a day or two
before I start the smoke. Again, the temperature should be 40 degrees
Fahrenheit (4.5 degrees Celsius) or cooler. This removes as much of the
moisture on the outside of the fish as possible. The drier the flesh, the
brighter the color the smoked fish will be. This is the big secret of
getting good color.
For cold smoke, the fish must be hung as close to the top of the
smokehouse as possible. Keep it far away from the heat, so that the
smoke will be cool by the time it reaches the fish.
A lot depends on the quality and condition of the smokehouse. Number
one, you should be able to control the ventilation. The smoke has to pass
through your smokehouse and be vented through the top. Mine has a
pitched roof covered by a plywood sheet I can raise and lower to control
the amount of smoke going out the top.
Then, of course, you must have a pit in which to build the fire for
making smoke. Again, it is desirable to be able to control the amount of
heat and air that go into the burner.
For cold smoke, start the fire with dry wood and then feed it green alder
for the long smoke, but be sure to remove all the bark. If you don’t, your
fish will have a bitter taste.
I start with a very small fire, adding to it when the logs burn down to
coals so that the added wood will ignore without smoldering too much.
If the fire isn’t burning properly, it will give off gray smoke. You must
have enough draft to make sure the smoke is blue.
Continue this process for a minimum of six days. Smoke the fish until
oil begins to show on the outside. The fish can be taken out or at least
sampled at this time, but leaving it a while longer will give it more color.
Black Cod or Sablefish Smoking Method
On a 8 or 9 pound (3.6 to 4 kg) black cod, split and remove the
backbone, cover with salt (same as for salmon or steelhead), shake off
surplus and place on a rack for 12 hours. Use the same method for
smaller fish but reduce the number of hours in proportion to the size of
the fish. Hang in the smokehouse, keeping a low fire as cold as possible,
until the fish are a very pale yellow. Too much color makes the fish
bitter.
To cook smoked cod, put it in boiling water, allow it to simmer 12 to 15
minutes without covering, or until the fish flakes. Do not overcook it or
it falls apart.
Cited From: Adolph Mathisen, Courtesy, Bunny Mathisen, Petersburg,
Alaska.
Cold–Smoked White Fish Fillets Method
Any white–fleshed, lean fish which will produce fillets weighing more
than 1 pound (456 g) may be used. cut the fish in fillets, removing the
backbone and skin. Cover with a saturated brine and hold for two hours.
Remove and drain for 10 to 15 minutes and air–dry for two hours. Hang
fish and cure over a fire with a fairly light smoke for eight hours at a
temperature not higher than 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius).
If any of the flesh is resting against a stick or pole, turn the fillets after
the first four hours so that the smoke penetrates evenly.
After the first eight hours, smother the fire so that a dense cloud of
smoke is obtained and continue smoking until the fillets are a deep straw
yellow, turning them as necessary to color evenly. This operation should
take about six hours. Cool the fillets thoroughly and wrap each
separately in waxed paper. Store in a cool, dry place. They will keep
about 10 days.
Cited From: Smokehouses and The Smoke Curing of Fish (adapted).
Smoky Joe Portable Smoker Salmon Method
No Smokehouse? Try this recipe for a small amount of salmon that may
be processed in a portable smoker.
10 pounds (4.5 kg) salmon fillets
Brine #1–water to cover, plus 1 1/2 cups (360 ml) rock salt
Brine # 2– 1/2 cup (120 mL) each–noniodized salt and brown sugar–per
1 quart (1 L) water needed to cover fish
Seasonings: pepper, garlic powder, maple flavoring, honey (optional).
Soak the fish in Brine #1 about 30 minutes (no longer) to draw off any
remaining blood. Rinse and cut into chunks about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick
and 2 inches (5 cm) wide. Place in Brine #2 and refrigerate or keep in a
cool place about eight hours or overnight.
Remove fish from brine, rinse in cold running water, drain and pat dry
with paper towels. Allow fish to air–dry until the surface looks shiny and
is tacky to the touch. Sprinkle fish with pepper and garlic or other
seasonings–such as flavored salts–and brush with maple–flavored
honey, if desired. If the skin has been left on, pierce it in several places.
Allow about 15 minutes to preheat the smoker, using hickory or alder
chips. Oil racks to keep fish from sticking and arrange fish, allowing
space between pieces for smoke to circulate and placing small pieces on
top racks farthest from the heat.
The length of smoke depends on your taste (and the manufacturer’s
instructions if you are using a commercial smoker). Check the fuel every
hour or so. When smoking is finished, allow fish to cool thoroughly at
room temperature, up to two hours. Then wrap well in plastic wrap and
store in the refrigerator or freeze.
Smoked Brown–Sugar Cured Salmon Method
Clean and fillet salmon. Prepare a salt mixture by combining:
 2 cups (480 mL) salt
 1 cup (240 mL) brown sugar
 2 tablespoons (30 mL) white pepper
 1 tablespoon (15 mL) each: crushed bay leaves, allspice, crush
whole cloves and mace.
Dredge salmon in salt mixture to collect as much as will cling to the
flesh. Leave for six to eight hours. Rinse and scrub under running water
to remove all traces of salt. soak salmon in running or frequently
changed water four to six hours. Dry in fresh air for six hours. If the day
is damp, dry up to 10 hours.
Start fire and let it burn down to coals; smoke temperature should not be
over 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius). Smoke fish for eight
hours, then build up a dense smoke, keeping temperature below 100
degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius) and using a spray of water when
necessary. Continue smoking for 16 hours. It is best to keep fire going
continuously for the 24 hours, but if you must let the fire die at night,
start again in the morning. When finished, the fish is almost tender
enough to spread with a knife.
If fish is to be canned after smoking, limit the dense smoke to four to
seven hours, or until the flesh surface is light brown. The canning
process will intensify the smoke flavor.
Cited From: The Fisherman Returns (adapted).
Crab Apple Smoked Salmon Method
“Some people use alder to smoke salmon, but we use wood from crab
apple trees that are plentiful on Gravina Island near Ketchikan, where
our homestead is located. I like the sweet, mild fragrant smoky odor and
taste we get from it.”
Fillet salmon (any species) or steelhead. Cut it into 4-inch (10 cm)
squares, about 2 inches (5 cm) thick. This way all the fish will be
uniform in flavor. Fish halves can be smoked if preferred. Use uneven
pieces and backbone for canning. For each 5 pounds (2.25 kg) fish,
sprinkle with the following mixture, adjusted to suit individual taste:
5 teaspoons (25 mL) salt
3 teaspoons (15 mL) raw sugar
1/4 teaspoons (1 mL) black pepper
Let the fish stand overnight. Drain. Place fish chunks on racks in
smokehouse, skin side down, over glowing coals and charred wood in
order to dry and glaze. This takes about one hour. Then smother the
glowing coals to a heavy smoke with green chunks of apple wood or
peeled alder.
For quick kippered fish, ready in about eight hours, use low rack, 18
inches (45 cm) from the fire.
For longer smoking, use middle rack, 30 inches (75 cm) from fire. After
the first eight hours, smoke about two hours each day for 7 to 10 days.
the fish will become dry and hard–smoked.
To cold–smoke for canning, use the top rack, 48 inches (1.2 m) from
fire, three to four hours.
Cited From: “I Smoke Salmon” in the Alaska Fishing Guide, by Helen
Blanchard (1979).
Norwegian Smoked Pressed Salmon Method
After cleaning as usual, cut off tail and head. Then cut along spine and
remove backbone. Spread flat and hold down edges of back skin with
wooden picks. Cover with salt and sugar–1 quart (1 L) salt to 1 cup (240
mL) sugar. Press between two wide boards with a small weight on the
top for two to three days, depending on the size of the salmon.
Remove the salt mixture with a cloth. Wash fish with 1 teaspoon (5 mL)
saltpeter dissolved in 1/4 cup (60 mL) of brandy or water. Smoke for
eight hours in cool alder smoke. Let salmon hang for about six days
before use. The temperature should be cool, about 38 degrees Fahrenheit
or 3.5 degrees Celsius.
Cited From: The Fisherman Returns.
Kippered Salmon Method
Kippered fish is dried in cool smoke, then cooked in hot smoke for a
short period. It is a quick–to–spoil product and must be kept
refrigerated or frozen. But it is ready to eat with out any further cooking
when it comes from the smokehouse, and there are many people who
like it as well, or even prefer it to cold-smoked salmon. The dark orange
or red coloring of commercially kippered salmon comes from a very
short (30–second) dip in food coloring right after the fish has been
drained of brine. Home–kippered fish has a browner sheen. “Any kind
of salmon may be kippered.” says Robert Browning [Fisheries of the
North Pacific], “but white king salmon and fall–run chum salmon are
the species most commonly kipper–processed. First quality kippered
salmon consists of choice, evenly shaped and sized pieces of the side.
But odd pieces (such as collar tips or tail chunks) are extensively used,
too, turning into human use perfectly good salmon that otherwise might
be discarded entirely or made into animal food or meal.” Other species
of fish may be kippered, too. Herring–slit along the back so that it will
open in one piece, leaving the belly solid–is especially popular. Adjust
brining and smoking times depending on the size of the fish.
Halve salmon lengthwise and cut into chunks. Soak pieces in a brine
solution of 2 1/2 cups (600 mL) salt dissolved in 2 quarts (1.9 L) of
water for 30 minutes to two hours, according to thicknesses. Be sure the
chunks are well covered in brine. Rinse the pieces thoroughly in running
water and lay out on a rack to air–dry for an hour or two. If flies are
present, protect fish with a covering of cheesecloth or a light smudge of
smoke. When the fish has dried sufficiently, the surface will be shiny
and dry to the touch.
Start the fire and let it burn down to coals; smoke temperature should be
about 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (27 to 32 degrees Celsius). Smoke
fish a total of 12 to 15 hours until a good glossy skin has formed. During
the last two hours, increase the temperature gradually–up to 250 degrees
Fahrenheit (121 degrees Celsius). The internal temperature of the fish
itself should not go above 150 degrees Fahrenheit (65 degrees Celsius).
If the temperature rises rapidly to 250 degrees Fahrenheit, the smoking
time is decreased 40 to 60 minutes. Cool and eat.
Cited From: The Fisherman Returns.
Cooking Alaskan By Alaskans Cookbook
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MR RESEARCH AND REFERENCES:

04.08.08--Traditional Foods And Recipes--Types of SalmonIn "Foods

And Recipes"
04.08.08--Foods And Recipes--Smoke-Cure Those Extra Fish-- And Yet
Another Fishy StoryIn "Foods And Recipes"
04.08.08--Traditional Foods and Recipes--Pt.1--Dressing Fish In The
Field And In The KitchenIn "Foods And Recipes"
This entry was posted in Foods And Recipes, Traditional Foods And
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smoked pressed salmon, portable smoking salmon, salting fish, smoke-
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