GQ India-November 2020 PDF

INDIA
THE
ULTIMATE
WISHLIST
ALL THE
GIFTS & GEAR
YOU NEED
P LU S
THE MUSICAL
GENIUS
OF MALUMA
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MANASI SAWANT
` 150
THE
RESURGENCE
ABHISHEK BACHCHAN
Contents
SUIT BY KANIKA
GOYAL. SHIRT
BY POLO RALPH
LAUREN. SHOES
BY TRUMPET.
TIE BY HERMÈS.
POCKET SQUARE
BY CANALI.
WATCH BY
JACOB & CO.
THE REINVENTION 24 Ed’s letter

Pg. THE
INDIA
ULTIMATE OF ABHISHEK 26 Contributors
102
BACHCHAN
WISHLIST
ALL THE
PHOTO: MANASI SAWANT
GIFTS & GEAR

YOU NEED
THE MUSICAL
GENIUS
OF MALUMA
With an oddly busy 2020, the Ludo actor is in the zone. 163 Where To Buy
THE By Arun Janardhan
RESURGENCE
ABHISHEK BACHCHAN
JUMPER, SHIRT, TROUSERS; ALL BY DIOR MEN 166 Humour
4 — NOVEMBER 2020
New Delhi: The Emporio. Mumbai: Taj Hotel Colaba – Dior.com
Contents
Brave New Inside Pg. Youtube’s
World Beirut’s 64 Plot To
Pg. 31 Broken Silence
Meet the eight avant-
Heart Weapons Conspiracy
garde, emerging artists
we’re digging right now. Pg. 154 Of Mass Theories
Distraction Pg. 140
A look at the Lebanese
String capital in the aftermath of How the video giant is
Theory the devastating blast.
Rajiv Makhni has
tackling misinformation
Pg. 66 on its platform.
workable tips to curb
your screen time.
Chaos Theory
Get acquainted with Pg. 48 Fortress Of
SURII’s fusion of Indian Fareed Zakaria on
Love, Quietude
classical ragas with 21st- navigating the post- Actually Pg. 120
century tech. pandemic world. Pg. 122
A ride in India’s first luxury
EV, the Mercedes-Benz EQC.
Just High Stakes
Maluma Pg. 68
Past Master
Pg. 84 Nithin Kamath of the A sit-down with the actors Pg. 110
With Papi Juancho’s countryʼs leading broking who play Diana Spencer
success, the Latin music firm, Zerodha, gets candid and Prince Charles in This latest watch takes
sensation is going global. with GQ. season 4 of The Crown. inspiration from an 18th-
century timepiece built
by Abraham-Louis
Breguet himself.
Pg. Colour
88 Coded
Pg. 100
GQ’s Big We make a case for
Gifting Audemars Piguet’s fun
Guide 2020 Code 11.59 collection.
Our sure shot winners:

40+ suggestions to Fresh Faced
light up your loved Pg. 118
ones’ mundane year.
Simple, clean yet
stylish: Newbie
Lagado’s dress watches
are millennial approved.
No
Reservations
Pg. 60
From Meet The Patels to
Wonder Woman 1984, actor
Ravi Patel weighs in on his
Hollywood journey.
10 — NOVEMBER 2020
Tod’s Boutiques • New Delhi: 122 DLF Emporio, Nelson Mandela Marg, Vasant Kunj, Tel. 91 11 4666 2700 - Mumbai: G-16 Palladium,
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ANA DE ARMAS
FOR MOMENTS LIKE NO OTHER

Contents
Fine Cut
Pg. 73 The
Dior Men’s AW20 collection Archivists
showcases Kim Jones’
couture approach to ready- Of Assagao
to-wear dream pieces.
Focusing on
Come indigenous
ingredients,
Through Edible Archives is
Pg. 78 showcasing the
art, science and
GQ stylists share what
techniques
makes their wedding
of cooking.
guest attire complete.
Rich
Pickings
Pg. 74
Minimal, embellished,
classic or quilted: Our
line-up of shoes has
something for everyone.
Pg.
Go With 112
Your Gut
Pg. 40
Dress Code GQ Taste Carry On
Kombucha, cheeses, Pg. 132 Pg. 46 Pg. 76
pickles and chocolates –
probiotics is the trendiest Everything that’s buzzing If you’ve got an eye for
way to keep immunity in drinks and nosh great things, these bags
in check. Silhouettes that put the this month. are for you.
focus on impeccable
tailoring and stand the
Key Pieces test of time. A New Power Pint
Pg. 148 Wave Pg. 130
Spice up your wardrobe

Dynamic Pg. 54
Raising the bar for SUVs is
with the coolest among Evolution Green architecture: the Kia Sonet.
luxe accessories. There’s more than what
Pg. 58
meets the eye at FADD
Stanley Lifestyles is on to
Pg. becoming the one-stop
Studio’s Bengaluru project. The
80 destination for all your Street Less
decor needs. Centre Travelled
The Right Stage Pg. 44
Big Up Pg. 52
Accord
IMAGE: MANOJ PARAMESWARAN
Pg. 56 From the people behind

Cafe Dori and Cafe Lota
We are back with our edit comes Bhawan – a cloud
If you’re still looking for your
Everything you’ve always of accent pieces: Give your kitchen that’s putting a
signature scent, we have a
wanted to know about bachelor pad the ultimate new spin to your favourite
comprehensive list to narrow
bulking and cutting. home advantage. street food.
down your choices.
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Editor’s Letter
FOOD &
FESTIVAL
Culinary
Conversations
O ne of the most arresting sessions at the recent GQ Food & Drink

Festival was the one exploring the move towards more inclusive
restaurant kitchens. The discussion, moderated by journalist
Roshni Bajaj Sanghvi, kicks off with one of Mumbai’s top
chefs Alex Sanchez confessing (and regretting) that he used to
intimidate his kitchen staff in a bid to get results when he first arrived in the country: He
knew there would be no consequences, and that screaming would work. As is so often the
case, Sanchez was himself the victim of toxic kitchen culture, having been on the receiving
end of abuse from senior chefs when he started out apprenticing in America. Over time,
the San Francisco native has consciously updated his approach, leading to a significantly
more healthy, productive work environment. Co-panelist Manu
Chandra, the Olive Group’s chef-partner, defined inclusiveness
to also mean a push towards greater creative contributions from
his employees belonging to India’s diverse regions. Chandra is
flawed by the sophisticated palate of Olive’s Assamese staff, who
grew up in one of the great biodiversity hotspots on this planet,
and so have been raised around an astounding variety of spices,
PHOTO:MAX HERMANS/THOMPSON PHOTO IMAGERY (CHE). IMAGE: MANOJ PARAMESWARAN (EDIBLE ARCHIVES)
plants and vegetables. Their backgrounds must be celebrated
and leveraged. Even this group, says Chandra, form a mere
creamy layer, under which bubbles great masses of talent that
will explode to the surface in the years to come. The panel was
rounded off by the vocal culinary champion Anumitra Ghosh
Dastidar, who has battled discrimination on multiple levels,
from bathroom rights to contending with a kitchen culture that
rewarded alpha male energy – even among queer colleagues.
Chef Dastidar says that true change is only effected when it
is consciously interwoven into the fundamental structure of
an institution from the ground up. For those interested in this
important voice, we’ve carried a beautifully reported feature
by Vivek Menezes, who writes about Chef Dastidar and her
revolutionary Edible Archives restaurant in Assagao. With Goa
on everyone’s radar at the moment, this is the place to be.
@chekurriengq
Contributors
The best gift you’ve

ever received
Rajiv
Makhni
“A TRADITION
THAT MY MOTHER
Mark Vivek STARTED AND HAS Clive Nasri
Pillai Menezes CONTINUED IN Thompson Atallah
“EVERY YEAR MY “MY WIFE AND THE OUR FAMILY: ‘OPEN “AN ACOUSTIC “THE BEST GIFT
MOTHER MAKES FATES CONSPIRED WHEN’ LETTERS. GUITAR FROM MY ONE CAN OFFER
WALNUT OIL FROM TO DELIVER ME WE WRITE THEM PARENTS WHEN I IS THEIR TIME
OUR OWN TREES THREE SONS, THE TO EACH OTHER WAS 15. CHANGED AND ATTENTION.
AND HOMEMADE GREATEST JOYS OF USUALLY FOR A MY LIFE.” BOTH PRECIOUS
MARMALADE.” MY LIFE.” MILESTONE, BUT COMMODITIES.”
WHO: Writer based in
THE BEST ARE THE
WHO: Half-Indian, half- WHO: Writer, Brooklyn, who’s also the WHO: British-Lebanese
ONES THAT ARE A
German photographer, photographer and guitarist for country/ producer and writer who
TOTAL SURPRISE.”
born and raised in curator who lives bluegrass band The enjoys ironing shirts
Germany where the adjacent to where the WHO: Known as the Delorean Sisters. while watching police
Black Forest cake has Mandovi river meets the tech guru of India, his procedurals. Twitter
WHAT: “YouTube’s Plot
its origin. Arabian Sea. Twitter newest obsession is @nasriatallah &
To Silence Conspiracy
@vmingoa playing Bop It against his Instagram @nasri.atallah
WHAT: “Dress Code”, Theories”, page 140
six-year-old son.
page 132 WHAT: “The Archivists WEIRDEST WHAT: “Inside Beirut’s
Twitter @RajivMakhni
GREATEST Of Assagao”, page 112 CHANNELS ON Broken Heart”, page 154
& Instagram
INSPIRATION: TRADITIONAL GOAN @therajivmakhni YOUTUBE: “Live- ABOUT LEBANON:
“Travelling the world. VS EXPERIMENTAL coders – people who “It’s difficult to describe
WHAT: “Weapons Of
The more I get to know CUISINE: “Classic record themselves without falling into
Mass Distraction”,
IMAGE: BRYAN WILLIAM JONES (CLIVE)
our planet, the more Goan food includes writing computer code cliches, because
page 64
I love it. This is the ingredients and and upload it. If you’re the real essence of
most beautiful perk of techniques from FAV APP: “Evernote. a programmer (I do it it is indescribable.
this profession and a around the world. It’s To have the power to jot on the side), it’s a great It’s something in the
privilege indeed.” unbeatable.” down a quick thought, way to learn.” air, something in the
take a snapshot, store a people. How it all comes
photo, add a voice note, together. It’s tragic
sketch an idea, scan a and magical at the
page – and do it from same time.”
any device and still have
them all together.”
DESIGNED TO IMPRESS
Always pushing the boundaries of style, luxury and automotive intelligence, the Audi Q2
combines outstanding comfort, best in-class features and cutting-edge technology
The festive season has always been Breaking norms and challenging efficient off-roader, all in one.
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industry. And with the country combines exemplary functionality approach, GQ India has tied up
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celebration. To add cheer to the wise, too, it packs a punch. Powered represent the key qualities of the Audi
festive season, Audi has launched by a 2.0L TFSI petrol engine that Q2. Through a series of three films
the Audi Q2 – a powerful, luxury generates 190 horsepower and that connect the influencers with the
all-rounder. The versatile vehicle will 320Nm of torque, it goes from 0-100 car’s progressive design, superlative
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looking for a car that matches their permanent all-wheel drive system experience, the campaign offers
personality – athletic, urban and full for excellent traction and grip makes insight into what places Audi Q2
of character. it the perfect city commuter and an a cut above the rest.
RAGHAV SACHAR, reinstating the fact that today, high- data. A central window displays the
end setups are not just a luxury, but navigation map and the radio and
SINGER AND MUSIC COMPOSER
a necessity. And singer and music media lists and the infotainment
‘SOME JUST SEE TECHNOLOGY. composer Raghav Sachar attests to view is capable of being tailored to
WE SEE INSPIRATIONAL this. Featuring advanced engineering meet your specific requirements via
and high-tech features, Sachar’s the multifunctional steering wheel.
ENGINEERING.’
state-of-the-art studio setup is almost Adding a final flourish of glamour
identical to Audi Q2’s virtual cockpit, to the interiors is the captivating
Ever wondered about how technology which is innovative and fully digital, ambient lighting feature, which
has completely transformed our flexible and clearly structured. flaunts illuminated trim elements on
music listening experience? The Smartly integrating infotainment the dash and center console. With
digital revolution has brought in and connectivity, the Audi virtual such a diverse array of exceptional
innovations that allow for better cockpit’s 31.24 cm screen displays – not to mention, customisable –
connectivity across all our devices. highly detailed graphics and offers interior features, the Audi Q2 really
For musicians, in particular, two display modes – one focuses on sings, allowing you the opportunity to
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GQ PROMOTION
SWECHCHHA SINGH,
LEKHA WASHINGTON, ACTOR AND SCULPTOR DANCER AND CHOREOGRAPHER
‘SOME JUST SEE BEAUTIFUL LINES. WE SEE CHARACTER.’ ‘SOME SEE A ROAD.
What does a sculpture have in common with a car? Other than the WE SEE A STAGE.’
fact that both can be considered works of art, the two follow a similar
design narrative. And no one understands this better than actor and Strong, yet agile and fluid. Meet
sculptor Lekha Washington. With a penchant for clean lines, alignment choreographer and dancer
and stunning design, Washington creates experiential artworks that are extraordinaire, Swechchha Singh
open to interpretation. The Audi Q2 speaks a similar design language. It who is accomplished in a variety of
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The car sports a low roof descends and merges into the C-pillars, with and free-style to jazz and folk. And,
the black side blades and an especially eye-catching high window line like any other dancer, her best quality
with singleframe grille at the bottom lending it an edgy octagonal shape. is her ability to effortlessly adapt to
Further accentuating its sporty vibe are the squarish LED tail lights the music. Mirroring her approach
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An updated palette includes exciting new colours, with two alloy wheel Drive Select dynamic handling system
options and two design trims that offer many ways to personalise your feature of the Audi Q2, which enables
Audi Q2. The result? A powerful car that is functionally strong and the driver to adapt to the vehicle’s
sculpturally stylish! performance. Just like Singh’s
free-flowing movements, Audi Q2
has the ability to adjust to varied
terrains and thanks to electronically
controlled adaptation, the Audi Drive
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choose from among five modes –
auto, comfort, dynamic, efficiency
and individual – based on steering
response, agility, comfort and body
control. So, go ahead and experiment
with your car by choosing between a
fuel-efficient commute and a sportier
drive. Simply put, the Audi Q2 allows
you to dance to your own tunes –
quite literally!
SKY CHIEF CHRONOGRAPH
Available at select Helios outlets - 080 480 33360

DIFFERENT
STROKES
IMAGE: COURTESY OF RITHIKA MERCHANT AND TARQ © RITHIKA MERCHANT, 2020
Brave New World

Not all art has to be political, but visual artists have always sought to reflect the environment
they work in: To chronicle, respond and offer escape. Meet eight contemporary artists,
under the age of 40, from the Indian subcontinent, who are skillfully wielding
their paintbrushes and digital pens to reckon with everything: from climate change
to social inequality, tradition and future technologies. Ones for the wall
WRIT TEN BY NIDHI GUPTA
NOVEMBER 2020 — 31
DIFFERENT
STROKES
32 —
NOVEMBER 2020
IMAGE: COURTESY OF RITHIKA MERCHANT AND TARQ © RITHIKA MERCHANT, 2019 (INFINITE PORTALS, 2019), COURTESY RITHIKA MERCHANT (RITHIKA)
#HungryPlanet
RITHIKA MERCHANT
Each of Rithika Merchant’s collections
of exquisite paintings is built around a
character on a journey. Invariably, these
are half-human, half-animal creatures
navigating whatever issue the artist
is preoccupied with in the moment: In
Voyager, it was the global migration crisis
and identity; in Ancestral Home, the idea
of rootlessness and belonging; Aerial
Women and Luna Tabulatorum meditate
on womenʼs existence.
“Technique-wise, I love paper. I find it
to be a very democratic medium,” says
the Mumbai-bred, Barcelona-based
artist whose gouache-on-paper works
have inspired a collaboration with the
French brand Chloé in the recent past. “I
love watercolour, its translucence.” Her
signature move is to fold the paper before
she begins, adding a neat cartographic
element to these worlds that dwell
somewhere between the hydraulic
and cosmic, botanical and anatomical,
folklore and political commentary.
#TheBodyElectric
The Parsons’ alum now plans to
deploy her “lexicon of symbols and
characters” in a new set of paintings that
will consider “what it means to be at this
crossroads” – vis-à-vis climate change TARINI SETHI
– “when you know that everything we do Art was always in Tarini Sethi’s blood. She hails from a family of product and set
has a ripple effect, and any action might designers in Delhi. But her rise to prominence has been firmly outside the box.
just be about mitigating disaster. These Instead of courting institutions, she uses Instagram and the internet as her
works will consider what it means to be hanging wall. Since the beginning of her practice, Sethi’s curated salon-style art
the consciousness of the solar system.” shows in underground spaces. In 2018, she launched the famous Irregulars Art
Fair, along with graphic designer Anant Ahuja – an anti-fair running parallel to the
India Art Fair.
Missy Baba’s So Dignified, 2020 Much of this renegade impulse stems from Sethi’s time in New York, a city
Tarini Sethi
Paint on Paper
where “people manage to do a lot with not very much,” says the Pratt Institute
alum. “People are curating shows in their backyard, painting on the city walls, on
(Opposite) Infinite Portals, 2019 the trains. I learned that if I want to exhibit my work, I can just do it myself.”
Rithika Merchant Sethi’s ink-on-paper drawings (with a hint of early 20th-century cubism)
IMAGE: COURTESY OF TARINI SETHI
Gouache and Ink on Paper

and now metal sculptures have been exploring themes of human intimacy and
38.5 x 28.3 inches
sexuality. She meditates on the idea of utopias, “but itʼs now a more holistic
(Opening page) Hyperlife, 2020 investigation of how we take over spaces around us.” Architecture gets as much
Rithika Merchant attention as humans and animals in her work; inspired by folk tales, stories of kings
Gouache, Watercolour and Ink and queens, modern politics. Much like others in her generation. There’s a new
on Paper
25.5 x 19.6 inches
confidence among the artists rising from India today, says Sethi. “We’re now seeing
more vocal, provocative, political and experimental art. We’re rebellious now.”
#DanceApocalyptic
DHEER KAKU
Dheer Kaku’s IG bio introduces him as a “terror artist, credit stealer, ill lust traitor”
– among other choice epithets. “My work is mostly sarcastic,” says the Goa-based
artist, “and critical of normal life, of the repetitions and loops we live in, which to me
seem meaningless and funny on one end, and really deep and infinite on another.”
Kaku’s newest project, carefully titled Casual Thoughts Of Doom, meditates on “the
loops of paranoia” that are a part of online existence. If you’ve access to the internet,
on more than one occasion, you’ve felt that the world is coming to an end. In these
monochrome works, Kaku inserts a bit of the apocalypse into his urbanscapes – a
mainstay of his practice.
IMAGE: COURTESY OF DHEER KAKU
The Rachana Sansad, Mumbai alum calls Nikhil Chopra a mentor. He is

particularly influenced by the senior artist’s “act of using drawing as performance”.
Apophenia, 2020 Right now, he’s enamoured with Laurie Lipton’s intricate drawings, and it excites
Dheer Kaku him that memes are considered art. As the world reckons with digital art, heʼs busy
From Casual experimenting with form. “I hope to build this into a series that probably grows over
Thoughts Of Doom
22 x 30 inches
years,” he says. “I want to play with interactive sound and video projection, create a
space where a person can walk in and absorb the whole theme.”
DIFFERENT
STROKES
(From top) Elaeis

Guineensis, 2020
Garima Gupta
Graphite and Pastel dust
on “Khata paper”
12.7 x 16.3 inches;
Thank You For Shopping
With Us! 01, 2020
Garima Gupta
Colour pencils and
graphite on gateway paper
11.6 x 8.3 inches
#WildThings
IMAGE: COURTESY OF GARIMA GUPTA AND TARQ © GARIMA GUPTA, 2020 (ELAEIS GUINEENSIS, 2020 , THANK YOU FOR SHOPPING WITH US! 01, 2020) , COURTESY GARIMA GUPTA (GARIMA)
GARIMA GUPTA
What began as a trip to the Arfak Mountains’
rainforest in West Papua in 2014, to see the
Birds of Paradise, turned into something of
an obsession for Garima Gupta. The NID-grad
quit her job and has spent a lot of the past
five years researching wildlife trafficking in
the region stretching from the island of New
Guinea to the Southeast Asian archipelago.
“Wildlife trafficking is the world’s fourth
largest illegal trade after narcotics, human
trafficking and counterfeit goods,” she says.
“It is essential to look beyond the rhetoric of
supply-demand – how much, how many, when,
how – and delve deeper into the subconscious
of the region and its cultural complexities.”
“I spent a lot of time interviewing tribe
hunters in rainforests, taxidermists in bazaars
and wildlife trophy dealers functioning
in what can now only be called a dark,
invisible market.” These “micro stories” and
experiences have made it into her ongoing
show, filed under :a/muse/um at Tarq, Mumbai
(till November 12). Her drawings of birds and
wildlife – occasionally on “khata paper” –
evoke and comment on the delicate colonial-
era natural history art.
Gupta traces her interest in ornithology
and art to her childhood and time spent with
her grandmother. She feels that the Indian
art world has now become more open to
field research, science, technology and social
justice. With this project, she hopes “to find
crucial connections between unarchived
fragments of a conflict that is pushing us into a
war with the very world we inhabit.”
DIFFERENT
STROKES
#BurnBright
ZIMBIRI
While pursuing a double major in practice, after her return to Bhutan. Her
Economics and Fine Arts at Wheaton, debut show Faces, at the Royal Textile
Illinois, Zimbiri tried hard to break out of Academy, was a series of masks “telling
the mould of “the Bhutanese person” on the same story over and over again.” In her
campus, uncoupling her identity from her sophomore show, Found Icons, she infuses
heritage. But it was also an un-learning staple Bhutanese motifs (primarily the
of sorts. Through her training, she tiger) – done in Saa-tshen (earth paint) on
learned of Josef Albers, father of the Rhay-shing (cloth strung on wood) – with
Colour Theory. She also remembers new meaning, new stories.
visiting the Tim Burton MoMA exhibition She is part of a fledgling, contemporary
in 2010. She was surprised to see that art scene in Bhutan; along with the sibling-
children’s illustrations could also be duo Twinz, known for their hyper-realistic
considered high art. art; and Gembo Wangchuk, who is teasing
IMAGE: COURTESY OF ZIMBIRI
“It had less to do with what was on the new meaning out of religious Bhutanese
Circle, 2020 paper than what was behind it,” says the iconography at the risk of heresy. “In
Zimbiri Thimphu-based artist. “It also made me Bhutan, it’s sort of this blank page,”
Saa-tshen on Rhay-shing (Earth realise the importance of an authentic Zimbiri says. “Basically everything that
paint on canvas)
63 3/4 x 65 5/8 inch
voice.” Hers came through only after she we’re putting together now, is going to be
embraced her culture and heritage in her the history of contemporary art here.”
#PromisedLand
SHRIMANTI SAHA
It’s possible to get lost for hours in Shrimanti Saha’s dense paintings, fall for that
temptation to decode the meta-narrative in them. Take Repair Work, for instance, from
her recent show Fire In The Greenhouse And Other Stories (at Vadehra Art Gallery). Brown
men armed with bows and arrows fighting for survival; white men in khakis working with a
metallic monstrosity up top; marine animals washed ashore, waifish women tending to the
most vulnerable creatures – all in a desolate, almost hostile landscape bereft of colour.
Saha, a graduate of the MS University in Baroda, is keenly interested in visual
storytelling, treading between mythology, folklore and reality. Her recent work evokes the
American figurative painter Marcel Dzama as much as Nausicaa-era Miyazaki. It figures
– Saha says her works are inspired by a diversity of fields, like the “writings of Jorge Luis
Borges, Amitav Ghosh, Ursula K Le Guin; the films of Werner Herzog and Wes Anderson;
graphic novels of Joe Sacco and Marjane Satrapi,” among others.
Fire In The Greenhouse And Other Stories has “extensive references to ecology, feminism,
human-animal relationships; leading to the creation of dystopian landscapes or a fictional
civilisation. I think of [my art] as a personal mythology, an alternative history. A collection of
untold stories,” says Saha.
IMAGE: COURTESY OF SHRIMANTI SAHA
Repair Work, 2020

Shrimanti Saha
Mixed media on
paper
60 x 48 inches
DIFFERENT
STROKES
#EveryDayRobots
SAHEJ RAHAL
Sahej Rahal is intrigued by the idea of what he calls the “post-human”,
a sentient being that will likely emerge as Artificial Intelligence
becomes increasingly commonplace. “I’m really interested in the
conversation, the interaction, that performance,” he says, “because
it’ll be an act of being human, but not actually being one.”
Rahal, an award-winning multi-media artist who graduated
from Rachana Sansad, Mumbai, also counts performance artist
Nikhil Chopra among his influences. He consistently builds from
found objects, and draws from pop culture – like The Matrix,
William Gibson’s Neuromancer, anime like Ghost In The Shell – to
build his own ever-expanding universe. Itʼs masculine, predatory,
pre-historic, post-modern and soaked in irony. It is also stalked by
strange beasts mutated from a clash of the ages.
Rahal’s answer to the post-human quandary has been to build
an AI program, Shrota, that borrows from his spectacular show
Juggernaut at Chatterjee & Lal, Mumbai, two years ago. It “follows a
horned biped as it wanders the twilight landscape of a digital biome,”
one that has an AI script attached to each limb, and that obeys and
responds to sound picked up through a microphone.
Rahal’s next project builds upon an archaeological site in
Maharashtra, and an unlikely similarity in the ritual of burial here and
in another site in South Korea. “I’m working on a semi-fictional story,
a ‘found’ sketchbook full of these anthropological drawings. It’s like
moving between worlds and that’s fascinating to me.”
(Left) Pg 88, Juggernaut folio, 2018

Sahej Rahal
Mixed media on paper
41.75 x 30.75 inches
(Below) From Antraal, 2019
IMAGE: COURTESY OF SAHEJ RAHAL
#HighwayKind
ANJAN MODAK
Few debutante artists get noticed at a platform like India Art Fair like Anjan Modak
did in March this year. While the fair’s tent facade had Sameer Kulavoor’s vivid
paintings celebrating the everyday life of people, Modak’s arresting canvases of “the
common man” at the Emami Art, Kolkata stall, drew a crowd, including respected
artists like Atul Dodiya, and Manu and Madhvi Parekh.
“I hail from a family of masons and construction workers,” Modak says from
Kolkata. “I’ve grown up in that milieu, in West Bengal and in Delhi. These are
the images that have stayed with me through life.” Modak’s work took on a new
immediacy with the migrant worker crisis that emerged during the pandemic.
It gave birth to his latest exhibition, Fragmented Life – a collection of small-size,
Fragmented Life - 10, 2020 circular paintings in which he uses his proficiency in narrative figuration and an eye
IMAGE: EMAMI ART
Anjan Modak for the surreal to highlight the dreams and dilemmas of a segment of the population
Watercolour, graphite and archival left rudderless and boxed in at once. There is clearly an absurd, comical element to
ink on acid-free paper
14 inches (diameter)
these paintings, but “I was deeply shaken up by the news during that time,” he says.
“These paintings hopefully document this moment in human history.”
EAT HEALTHY
If immunity is armour,
the gut is the helmet
and shield combined –
and probiotics are the
iron and steel that make
them. Here’s why (and
how) you ought to factor
these live cultures into
the way you eat, for a
gut that’s got your back
W R I T T E N B Y
S AU M YA A V O H R A
W
With the world back in action (albeit behind
masks), the daily grind needs a stronger stomach
than ever – or rather, a stronger gut. Accounting
for about 70 per cent of our immune system, the
gut isn’t something that comes obviously to mind
when you’re beefing up proteins to build muscle,
or on greens to burn calories. But it’s an MVP
when it comes to really protecting you against
viruses and disease.
Shonali Sabherwal, macrobiotic nutritionist,
chef and author, describes the immune system as
the “gatekeeper to our health”, adding that “the
microbes in our gut control the responsiveness of
1
KRISHI CRESS
SAUERKRAUT, KIMCHI, KOMBUCHA
The Delhi-based farm might be best known for its
curated boxes of fresh produce and microgreens,
but the zero-waste initiative also does a plethora
of probiotic-rich foods worth talking about. Its
experiments in spicy Korean kimchi (like bok choy
the entire immune system, dictating the small kimchi) and kombucha (brewing it with marigold and
processes of immune response to, say, a fever, radish greens, for example) are fairly revolutionary
to a larger response, like determining how long – even to the enthusiast who knows the probiotics
a cold will last. That’s why gut health is the inside out. Both their red and white cabbage
cornerstone of an immunity programme.” sauerkraut are veritable powerhouses too, albeit
It isn’t, however, a fact most people fully not as avant-garde. We’d recommend a make-
account for – both in their diets and lifestyle. your-own-box situation so you can pack in those
“We’re constantly doing things that are probiotics, and also throw in some of its Beetroot
counterproductive to creating good immunity; Hummus and Almond Butter as a treat.
from eating sugar, maida, tea, coffee and
processed foods to eating late at night, skipping
meals, cooking on high heat, or taking pain meds
2
and antibiotics on the regular,” says Sabherwal.
When people do turn to an immunity-building
diet, the focus is again only on high-fibre foods THE LITTLE
FARM CO
like whole grains, lentils, beans, vegetables,
fruits, nuts and seeds, without factoring in gut-
bacteria feeders like pre- and probiotics. And
supplements, though not unhelpful, can only PICKLES
take you so far because, “a compromised gut
won’t absorb them,” Sabherwal says. “You’ll need As warm and homey as its name suggests, this
to strengthen the gut first with foods – and then boutique brand doesn’t make a massive range of
supplement it in addition, if you like. They’re products, but does pickles with enough culture to fill a
good for when you get busy, but they won’t make museum. Founded by Niharika Bhargava in an effort
up for the natural probiotics that some kimchi, to keep her mother’s and grandmother’s recipes
IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK (PICKLE JAR SHELF)
brine pickles or sauerkraut will give you.” alive, Little Farm’s seasonal fruit and vegetable-
While some probiotic-rich foods can be made based pickles are made from locally sourced
at home if you have time (think idlis, buttermilk ingredients and matured home-style in martbans for
and appams), there’s a selection of local brands lacto-fermentation, ie, good bacteria growth. Unlike
that deliver your fix at your doorstep if you don’t. department store pickles that can teeter into oil-slick-
Here are our recommendations of home-grown meets-chemical-spill, these are made with natural
brands to have on your radar. preservatives: pink salt, jaggery or desi khand,
spices, cold-pressed oil and vinegar. A mealside
spoonful and your probiotic quota is complete.
4 PASCATI
DARK CHOCOLATE
Derived from the Sanskrit pascat
parivesya (meaning sweet meal)
this bean-to-bar brand is about as
home-grown as they come. Self-
taught chocolatier Devansh Ashar
grew his obsession with – and study
of – chocolate-making into a full-
scale brand by experimenting with a
melangeur at home, and eventually
retailing. Made with fermented dried
cocoa beans from Kerala farms,
the deep darks at this artisanal
chocolate house are an easy fix for
your probiotics if you’d rather not
give kimchi or kombucha a try. We’d
recommend the 81% Dark Idukki,
because go hard, right?
3
5 HAPPY BOOCH
KOMBUCHA
A more OG version of the
fermented tea drink, this brand’s
kombucha is for the purist. Former
financial journalist Shailaja Sharma
started brewing it in her kitchen
SPOTTED COW FROMAGERIE

SOFT CHEESES
circa 2016 to help her with her own
gut health. When she was invited
to a farmer’s market – and sold
out in record time – HappyBooch
Doing small-batch, handmade cheeses, the preservative-free formaggio of this took off, growing to retail across
small, Mumbai creamery has become a go-to for turophiles across the city. In Mumbai. The women-run brand
a bid to improve the quality of cheese as compared to its global counterparts, has a stream of loyalists for its
photographer Prateeksh Mehra called in a few cultures from his aunts in the US hand-brewed, slow-fermented
to experiment with, and the rest is history. While Mumbai residents have looked to kombucha; alive with the probiotics
Spotted Cow purely for its unadulterated, primo spread, it also makes a selection it gets from its organic Scoby. The
of probiotic-rich cheeses that let you get that culture in. Its Tomme de Bombai, nicest thing about the brand is it’s
Mozzarella Di Bufala, brie and camembert all have that superpower; and pairing zero-waste; even returning the
any of them with a quality Merlot will only amp up the gut (bacteria) punch. bottles will earn you a discount.
EAT HEALTHY
6 7
QUICK FACTS
MASON & CO
DARK CHOCOLATE
DARIMA  The appendix might seem redundant,

but it stores and releases probiotics
Sourcing its cacao directly from
farmers in Kerala, Karnataka and
FARMS
SOFT CHEESES
to counter attacks by disease-causing
pathogens.
 Probiotics produce antibiotics; and
if the viruses become resistant, they
Tamil Nadu, this luxury chocolate
brand has the bonus of being
organic, vegan and artisanal.
change tack to fight them. It has a cornucopia of bars,
Soft cheeses are actually  Miso, tempeh, natto, kefir, spreads, butters and powders for
considered far better probiotic buttermilk, sourdough and paneer are the chocolate aficionado, but it’s
also great sources of probiotics.
carriers than their most obvious  Prebiotic foods are equally the darks that truly bring in the
counterparts, ie, fermented milk important, because they build the good probiotics. While an 85 per cent
and yoghurts. What’s fantastic bacteria that’s already in your gut. intense bar is a great low-sugar
about this Himalayan farm is that Bananas, apples, onions and oats are way to get your fix through a nibble
its cheese is made using only prebiotic foods you could easily work
into your diet. of dessert, its cacao powder and
culture and microbial rennet,  There are more probiotics than cacao nibs definitely pack the
and vacuum-packaged in lieu of actual cells in the body – about ten bigger pro-punch. The nibs, in
any preservatives or additives times as many. specific, are a superfood for a
that would ordinarily standardise host of other reasons (including
the milk. They might deteriorate antioxidants), so if you happen to
quickly as a result, but they’re have a taste for them, we’d say
as fresh and untarnished as the double down.
7,000-feet high Kumaon setting
they’re created in. If you’re
after a probiotic-laden cheese
that doesn’t mess around, look
to Darima’s sweet gruyere,
milky Tomme and honey-tinged
Montasio – or its Garlic Montasio,
if you’re feeling funky.
8 ATMOSPHERE
KOMBUCHA
Two nutritionist sisters Ariella and
Rebekah Blank started this brand
to counter the gut health issues
they began to have when they
moved to Delhi. Easily one of the
first brands to put kombucha on
the map, it became a fast favourite
in the capital’s circles for its less
pungent rendition of the notoriously
acidic drink. The seven flavours are
a great entry point if you’re looking
to switch out your average fizzy
drink for something with immunity-
building value; our top picks are
Spicy Ginger and Blueberry &
Lavender. The brand also does
vegan, probiotic cheesecake if
you’re in the mood for dessert.
NEW IN TOWN
The Street
Less Travelled
How Delhi-based cloud kitchen Bhawan is redefining
street food and its relationship with the city
W
hen Kainaz Contractor and
Rahul Dua first envisioned
Bhawan, they saw an Perusing the menu, I see classics peppered with
evocative restaurant space curiosity-rousing novelties. The Choriz Bread Pakora
serving street food and is roadside-style khasta but bursting with flavoursome
mithai. They toured the spicy meat. The Ghee Podi Upma pops with curry
country’s street food hubs, collecting ideas to create a leaves, cutting its ghee-steeped richness beautifully,
counterculture to the tunnel-visioned, all-vegetarian while the bunt-style Prawn Pulimunchi is smooth like
chaat franchises and their strong foothold. Meant to the Mangalorean OG but less heavy. The desserts – a
make it more imaginative and representative, it took mix of ingenuity and homage – span favourites like
three years to whip up its concept – street classics Mawa Jalebis and Motichoor Laddoo to inventive
with a full-service dining spin – into shape. And then, mithai, like Kerala-cocoa rife Nutella Pedas and elaichi-
exactly two weeks from take-off, the country was put infused Shrikhand Choux Buns.
under lockdown. “Street food is ingrained in our gastronomic
“We’d found the perfect spot in Kailash Colony,” Dua sensibilities,” Dua says. “We both grew up on it. As a
tells me. “And initially, we were optimistic, hoping to ride child, I’d spend my chump change eating golgappas
it out. But it quickly became clear we needed to change from the guy outside my building. It is part nostalgia,
tack.” Forgoing a served-hot model in lieu of a delivery- part tribute to an indelible aspect of our food culture.
only one, Contractor admits, proved more of a challenge I mean, people are already back to eating chaat on
than running a restaurant – now old hat for the duo the streets!”
behind Rustom’s, Cafe Dori and Delhi’s iconic Cafe Lota. But the circumstance, Dua believes, will only push
“The factor of time,” she says, “is tricky. It can vendors to level up. “They’ll rethink hygiene like never
overturn a dish that’s perfect when it leaves the before – in a truly thorough sense,” he muses. “Our
kitchen.” A factor which invariably led to tightening challenge, however, was to rethink the heartburn!”
and tailoring the menu to make it transit-friendly. “It “You feel so full because of all the cream and oil they
was the small things; cooling everything before packing put in,” Contractor adds, emphatically. “Working in
[for crispness], or sending easy to assemble elements so healthier elements [ragi or millet flour, pan-searing
they stay intact,” Contractor adds. “And, sadly, ruling out over frying, etc] is a task – especially without losing
recipes that didn’t work unless they’re freshly served.” the dish’s authenticity.”
The dine-in space dream still burns bright, but
Bhawan will stay a cloud kitchen for the next year, till
they “have things down pat.” Though, as I settle down
for seconds of their mithai post our chat, it feels like
they already do. WORDS: SAUMYAA VOHRA IMAGE: DEVANG SINGH
44 —
44 — OCTOBER
NOVEMBER2020
2020
GQ PROMOTION
A BRUSH
WITH THE BUSH
Take a walk on the wild side and experience the undisturbed, deck from where you can gaze out at
untamed beauty of nature and wildlife at its finest from the quiet yet the untamed wilderness. While The
luxe environs of The Blackbuck Lodge Villa boasts the best contemporary
conveniences, The Plunge Pool Cottage
As the country starts to open up, it’s offers moments for quiet reflection
time to step out and rediscover your A DAY IN THE LIFE... and The Pool Villa lets you luxuriate in
love for travel. Give exotic international WITH MICKEY DESAI tranquility.
destinations a miss in favour of local To make the most of your safari stay,
tourism and escape to The Blackbuck Mickey Desai’s always harboured opt for an array of adrenaline-filled
Lodge. A secluded, charming boutique an innate love for nature. So, it was activities curated for you by the staff
property, the Lodge is situated in close hardly surprising when the wildlife at the Lodge. Adventure seekers can
proximity to Velavadar National Park in enthusiast set up The Blackbuck set out on an open-jeep tour of the
Gujarat’s Bhavnagar district – home to Lodge by turning almost 85 per cent Velavadar National Park to spot the
the endangered Indian blackbuck. The of the land surrounding Velavadar elusive Indian blackbuck or make a
brainchild of wildlife enthusiast Mickey National Park into a full-fledged day of bird-watching to catch sight of
Desai, it is sprawled across roughly 150 grassland ecosystem. everything from floricans, pelicans, and
acres of dry grassland; and here, away A day in Desai’s life is hectic yet cranes to storks, ducks, and herons.
from the chaos and din of busy city life inspiring. It begins with an engaging For the homebodies, the Lodge’s cosy
is where you can truly reconnect with conversation with the Lodge manager library, stacked with immersive natural
yourself. over a cup of green tea, post which history reads, is a great place to unwind
Choose from 14 well-kitted cottages he’s out the door, flitting between at...as is the serene spa, which offers up
that feature rustic elements like wooden meetings, with a couple of all-weather a selection of restorative, rejuvenating
furniture, marble floors, and roughly- playlists to keep him company treatments. Once you’ve worked up an
hewn stone walls and come equipped when on the go. Dusk is reserved appetite, head to the Lodge’s lakefront
with an en-suite room, indoor and for a workout session—regardless multi-cuisine dining room and sample a
outdoor bathrooms, a patio, and a of whether he’s at home or at the variety of cuisines. But, for an authentic
Lodge—following which it’s time to safari meal, book the Bush Dinner
unwind at home in the company of experience. As sunset descends and
his three dogs, Mowgli, Coco, and cloaks the sky in an inky blue hue,
Groovy. Post some quality time with gather around the lantern-illuminated
family, he’s out the door once again, lakeside and feast on scrumptious
attending some social do or the other, barbecued Kathiawadi fare.
before finally retiring for the day Take it from us—at the quaint
at 11pm. Blackbuck Lodge, you will feel the
Despite Desai’s professional stresses and troubles of the last few
pursuits, it’s evident that The months melt away in the company of
Blackbuck Lodge holds a special the sprawling, silent wilderness.
place in his heart; and what makes
a stay at his property particularly
magical is the fact that you can
feel his love and warmth for the
wilderness in every nook and cranny
of the Lodge. For more information,
visit theblackbucklodge.net
THE WHISKY
SAZERAC
Bourbon buffs
probably have
this cult Kentucky
whisky brand on
their radar already,
but it’s finally landed
in India with three
of its best known
bottles. The Sazerac
Rye, a spicy-citrus
straight rye, is a
sharp contrast
Taste
to the McAfee’s
Benchmark
Old Number 8
EL
. T R AV straight bourbon’s
IN K caramel-leather
F O OD . DR
notes; save for the
THE DIY BAKE BOX smooth finish they
BORDOUGH | DELHI have in common.
The Buffalo Trace
Just a few months old, and the instant-bake cookies of this artisanal bakery have Bourbon, the best
fast become a cult favourite. Its MO is simple: Pre-portioned frozen cookie dough known of the three,
that just needs to be stuck into the oven to come to life, like it was baked from is a cork-finished
scratch. The small-batch dough comes to you in a cloud of dry ice in the form of small batch with
cookie cakes, cookie skillet pies and straight-up chunky cookies. The endeavour depth. It has
is nascent, but expanding, both with more items (including gluten-free versions) notes of brown
and more cities (next stop, Mumbai). A brilliant match for anyone who wants hearty, sugar, oak and
freshly baked results without really putting the “Y” in DIY. @bordoughbakery dark fruit layered
under a mint-
molasses nose.
THE FARMER’S MARKET The bottles come
first to Mumbai and
THE SOUS CHEF | DELHI Bengaluru, with a
Sauntering through stalls of fragrant greens, plan to go pan India
baguettes and preserves IRL might be a soon. Savants who
ways away, but this burgeoning brand bags haven’t felt spoilt
the best parts of it and sends them over for (new) choice in
instead. This Delhi-based venture sources a while can now
sustainably made products from local home add this veritable
chefs and businesses, and curates a bag smorgasbord to
full of goodies you can order every week. their bucket list.
THE SUBSCRIPTION BOX
The contents are a mix of ready-to-eats @buffalotraceindia
and add-ons that span from Japanese TAPPED FLIGHT |
Salad Dressing to Sourdough Crackers to MUMBAI, PUNE
Passionfruit & Raspberry Meringues and
Beerheads, rejoice: Discovering
the like. The curations are dynamic, so keep
brilliant new brews needn’t wait till
an eye out for what’s on the line-up before
pubs are kosher again. Tapped Flight,
you hit “order” – unless you prefer the
a monthly mystery box, will arrive at
element of surprise. @thesouschef.in
your doorstep creaking with the weight
of new bottles (or mammoth growlers).
Curated by the Tapped Beer Festival
crew, you’ll find a mix that runs the
gamut of ales, pilsners, lagers, sours,
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WORDS: SAUMYAA VOHRA
and global. Sign up if you’re a cross

between someone who’s always
ordering a different drink and who
loves surprise parties. tappedflight.com
GQ PROMOTION
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INTE RV IEW
T H E O RY
Fareed Zakaria is one of the world’s leading public intellectuals and the host of Fareed Zakaria GPS on
CNN. In his new book, Ten Lessons For A Post-Pandemic World, he draws on his extensive experience as
a journalist, media personality and academic to invent a set of principles that are likely to be crucial for
success in the turbulent years ahead
I N T E R V I E W E D B Y C H E K U R R I E N
t is said that while history does not that governments need to put in place, like
repeat, it rhymes. It is a case that pensions and social security, to mitigate any
Fareed Zakaria makes in his new book, further shocks. There is also an internal set of
Ten Lessons For A Post-Pandemic World. supports that we need to develop. These are
Drawing from a dazzling array of sources, qualities the ancients have always told us to
from the historian Richard Hofstadter cultivate: resilience, inner strength, a capacity
to psychologist Jonathan Haidt, from to withstand change, the ability to be aware of
philosopher Aristotle to political scientist what matters most in life – family and a few
Hans Morgenthau – Zakaria gleans close friends. In some ways, the pandemic has
insight and wisdom from some of the world’s forced this realisation on us, because when you
greatest thinkers across time to support his get locked down you realise that your world is
arguments, presenting them in a form that is actually very small. It has forced us to recognise
both sophisticated and accessible. Zakaria writes what those internal supports are, and to truly
in a pacy style and with an authoritative tone value them.
that never crosses over to supercilious. This book
is also, unwittingly, a powerful promotion for What business opportunities do you foresee in a
a liberal arts education – which fosters critical post-pandemic world?
thought processes that allow one to make The scale of the acceleration of digital life has
connections between ostensibly disparate fields been breathtaking. And if you think about how
to arrive at a conclusion of one’s own. In other well the digital infrastructure has held up over
words, independent thinking – one of the key the past nine months, it’s stunning. There are
attributes needed to navigate a world in flux. now opportunities that exist if you can play and
work in this world. If you have a set of digital
One of the central themes of your book is skills – not necessarily coding – you can survive,
that everyone is connected, but no one is in you can do things.
control. What is your advice to best deal with In this context, India has a great opportunity.
constant change? We need to use technology that enables us to
At a psychological level, this has been the most leapfrog over some of the traditionally weak
dislocating event of our lifetimes. There are infrastructure constraints – in getting goods to
two levels at which one can approach this: one market, in education, healthcare, information
is by thinking about all the external support and, crucially, in energy. It’s only when you have
48
If you think about how well the digital
infrastructure has held up over the
past nine months, it’s stunning.
There are now opportunities that exist
if you can play and work in this world.
If you have a set of digital skills – not
necessarily coding – you can survive,
you can do things
a truly distributed energy solution that you can

empower the entire population. The old model of
industrialisation, where peasants moved to cities
and became factory workers won’t work itself
the age of pamphleteers, where people put out
out in India. You’re going to need peasants to
all kinds of garbage, much of it untrue: Things
turn into entrepreneurs where they are. For that
like politicians siring children out of wedlock,
you will need distributed knowledge, healthcare,
and presidential campaigns fought with that
education and also distributed energy.
kind of information in the mix. What worries me
today is the scale. Smartphones are accessible
At a time of great change, we tend to crave
to everyone in the world. There are many people
security, often hoping for a return to a past, known
who have no sense that there are gradations of
order. How do we guard against the tendency of
truth. Technology makes it possible for fiction to
identifying an outcome and finding reasons to
look like fact.
justify it?
Yet, this democratisation of information
The only way to save yourself from this trap
has revealed something about the nature of
is to constantly question your assumptions,
human society – more than having created it.
your conclusions. It’s what any good CEO does:
People believe conspiracy theories not because
Every time you have an idea, you ask yourself
of Twitter, but because of deep psychological
what could you be missing, what’s the strongest
reasons of wanting to see order and patterns
argument against what you’re doing. While this
where none exist. Twitter provides them a
level of rigour and honesty is hard to practise in
forum. The answer is to dedicate ourselves to
day-to-day life, it’s important.
the idea that there is truth, there are facts,
What a crisis does is upend the existing
there is evidence. As media, we can’t give up on
order. It challenges and opens up your mind.
that project. The press cannot abdicate fighting
You’re willing to imagine change, as you’re living
emotion and theatre. We must fight unreason
through it anyway. The comfortable set of social
with reason. Yet, we have to be very careful that
and psychological supports that have kept you
this is done in a way that doesn’t come across as
going have been knocked out. So you’re forced
an assertion of class superiority.
to think about new paths, new ways. We’re all
choosing what kind of future arrangements we
IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES (THE BATTLE OF THE PAMPHLETEERS)
How must the more educated respond to the

want: Do we want things that resemble the past,
changing times?
or do we want to lean forward and ask what
In the past, intellectuals used to be mocked as
aspects of the present we’d like to encourage for
professor-types in bow ties and tweeds. They
the years ahead.
could be ignored. But today, every field needs
experts. The premium on having a college
What are the long-term effects of the explosion in
education in the western world continues to rise.
social media?
Despite the astronomical costs (about $250,000),
While the form is new, the nature of the content
the return in the form of wages fully justifies
is not. The 18th and early 19th centuries were
that cost. This is just one symbol of how much
expertise is valued. And as the economy grows
even more digital, the ability to work in this
context becomes ever more crucial.
50
The real challenge for more educated
people, experts and, in that sense, elites, is to
not think of themselves as elite. This is hard
because there’s a tendency to think, “I have the
knowledge, you don’t.” But this attitude builds
up an enormous amount of class resentment, fashioned approach of the major powers using
something populist politicians exploit. Elites good intelligence networks. One new advantage
need to understand that they’re part of a society, is that new technologies will help unearth
and that at some crucial level – at a democratic, these kinds of activities more easily. The key to
moral level – everyone is equal. They need to remember, though, in this case, as in so many, is
communicate better and empathise more. It’s that we are all more secure if we work together.
not just a PR game. If what continues is a clash
between experts and ordinary people, it’s going to What is your advice to leaders in these
be a very poisonous dynamic for a society which, tempestuous times?
ultimately, is only going to require more experts We’re all ambitious, we’re all trying to succeed,
in the future. but in that process never lose sight of what’s
fundamental. The leaders that are remembered
The scariest lines in the book were the ones used their power to do something, to make a
highlighting cheap, easy to use biological weapons. difference. The trappings will go away some day,
At a time when global multilateral institutions but what will be left is your legacy. What did you
have been weakened, how is this potentially actually do for people? If more people focussed
catastrophic issue going to be addressed? on that in a single-minded way, it would make a
As with so many of the dangers we now big difference.
face, the only precautions we can take are
agreements among governments. If we can come What do you miss most about India?
to an understanding of what the permissible I have so many great memories – pani puri at
rules of the road in this area are, allow an Chowpatty beach, campaigning with my dad (the
international monitoring group to examine late politician Rafiq Zakaria) in Aurangabad,
anything suspicious, it would give everyone and, of course, all the people I grew up with.
confidence. The challenge is, nations would have If there’s one thing I miss most today, it’s the
to be willing to allow those kinds of intrusive mangoes. You can’t get Alphonso mangoes in
inspections. Obviously that still leaves terrorists, America, and that’s been one of the minor
and there we will have to rely on the old- tragedies of my life.
The Battle
Of The
Pamphleteers
by John
Doyle
51
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Good Times
If you’re looking to add some festive cheer to your interiors,
check out the latest collection from IKEA – designed in
South India by Lebanese designer Nada Debs. The LJUV
(meaning delightful in Swedish) collection is a mix of
materials and patterns like wood and metal, ceramic and
brass. From small products like cushion covers and trays
Future Past to the big coffee tables, everything’s covered. Just because
The genius of architecture is rarely the festive season is going to be different this year doesn’t
appreciated fully, especially when mean it has to be a dull one.
much goes without seeing the
light of day – designed as entries
for competitions or proposals that
get stuck in red tape. Celebrating
these forgotten yet uber-imaginative
designs is Unbuilt 2.0: Architecture
of Future Collectives. The book
features several intriguing essays
by professionals and academicians
and inspiring unbuilt works by Indian
architects. From small-scale private
residences to large institutional and
public buildings, these are ideas that
WORDS: JANICE FERNANDES
hold immense promise but have

not been experienced, discovered
or lived in like they were meant to.
While Volume 2 releases next month,
there’s also India: Unbuilt Architecture,
Vol 1.0 for you to feast your eyes on.
New
Wave FADD Studio goes back to the basic
principle of reduce, reuse, recycle
W hile terms like sustainable

development and green
architecture gain speed
in the designing world,
architects Farah Ahmed and
Dhaval Shellugar of FADD
Studio bring the principles into tangible reality
with their latest project. Marrying the luxuries of
the present with the needs of the future, this home
is a prime example for sustainable living.
Located on the outskirts of Bengaluru, this
10,000sqft holiday home is surrounded by greenery,
which, we’d say, is half the battle won. Reminiscent
of a sanctuary away from the chaos of bustling city
life, the architecture blurs the lines between the
outdoors and indoors – with window walls (floor to The house is also equipped with a rainwater
WORDS: JANICE FERNANDES. IMAGE: GOKUL RAO KADAM
ceiling windows), allowing one to simply walk out harvesting system – an important element, especially
of a room and on to adjoining lawns. for a house of this size. Add to that a vegetable garden
The large windows also allow for plenty of and a compost area, and you have a green home that
natural light as well as cross ventilation, thus makes prudent use of its surroundings.
reducing – if not entirely eliminating – the need Making green architecture more desirable, the
for lights, ACs and fans. Solar panels ensure architect duo have certainly created an unapologetic
the house generates much of its electricity home for luxury living in the midst of nothingness.
consumption. “The beauty of this house is that “The residents enjoy fresh air owing to minimal traffic
every room opens up to greenery – whether it’s and pollution in the area. They can aim to live a life
the garden on one side, or the uplifted deck with of less dependency, less energy consumption that
a tropical rainforest feel on the other – and enjoys urban apartments are unable to accomplish so easily,”
natural light and fresh air,” Ahmed tells us. concludes Ahmed.
Big
Why you need to bulk up
before you can shred
WRITTEN BY PRAKASH AMRITRAJ
56
U
P
S
WHAT’S YOUR
CODE
So many people in life want to jump straight to As for the weight training portion, I would
the finish line. We want immediate results, that recommend training one body part a day for a
magic pill. But, to achieve anything great in life, 45- or 60-minute stretch. Try to work in some
there is no shortcut. This month, I’m going to take compound exercises such as benchpresses and
you through why taking your time to reach your dumbbell chest presses and perhaps squats, and
physical goals is so important, and how to achieve stiff leg deadlifts. You can finish up with some
your dream physique. shaping exercises such as flys for chest; and
The two goals I most often hear from people are: quad extensions and hamstring curls for legs.
“I want to put on some muscle and get bigger” and The ideal set and rep range for muscle growth is
“I want to lose weight and get skinnier.” generally 3-4 sets of 8-12 repetitions. A minimum
But let’s think about that. In an attempt to put of one rest day should be taken each week. All
on muscle, if we put on weight too fast, we’re likely of these are general recommendations. Your
to put on an excess amount of fat, which we don’t individual regimen will vary depending on your
want. In an attempt to become skinny quickly, we skill and experience level.
may go on a crash diet that will help us to lose the
weight, but will simultaneously result in losing a CUTTING
very large amount of muscle. Even worse, this puts Cutting is a little trickier. As mentioned, you’d
us in an unsustainable position where we are in start this phase after completing a strong
danger of rebounding quickly and putting on all bulking phase. The goal is to keep the gains
the weight we lost, plus possibly even more. that you’ve made during the bulking phase,
So how do we achieve this fine balance? so you should take the cutting phase nice and
You may have heard the terms “bulking” and slow. The aim should be to lose 450gm per
“cutting” in the bodybuilding world. This can easily week. This should help you to complete the
be a very effective tool in your fitness arsenal, process at a pace that’ll allow you to maintain
helping you towards your fitness goals, your final weight as opposed to bouncing
not just Arnold’s. back hard. A controlled pace will also help
The idea behind bulking and cutting is that in maintaining as much muscle as possible,
since it’s difficult to add muscle when you’re losing while losing weight.
weight, and difficult to lose fat when you’re gaining Similar to the bulking phase, the caloric
weight, you need to work towards your goal in deficit here should be about 300-500 calories
stages. It’s simple science. Combining these two per day. This should be combined with a
one after the other allows you to put on muscle for slightly higher intensity workout programme.
a period of time, while ideally limiting the fat gain. I would recommend training two body parts
Then cut the fat you put on, while limiting muscle a day, and focus more on the 12-15 repetition
loss. The end result will then hopefully see you range. You can change up your workout routine
gaining the amount of muscle you’d like, without by adding in some supersets and drop sets as
increasing your fat percentage. Actors constantly well. While the cardio activity should remain
employ this tactic for their film roles. fairly low – if any at all during the bulking
phase – during cutting, you should increase
BULKING the cardio to multiple times per week, if your
This is a training phase in which you put on bulk, schedule permits. HIIT cardio is something
or size. In order to put on some muscle, you need to fun to try as well. Ten second sprints on the
eat more calories than you’re expending on a daily beach followed by 10 second walks are my
basis. This nutrition strategy should be combined favourite. Ten sets.
with a weightlifting programme that allows the These methods involve a lot of trial and
muscles to be torn apart and rested in order to error to discover the perfect formula for each
allow them to grow back bigger and stronger. For individual. As you develop your physique, you
the nutrition aspect, I would recommend eating may need to adjust even further. But this is a
300-500 calories in excess of your daily caloric proven method that’ll allow you to reach your
expenditure. Keeping the excess minimal will physical goals at the end of the day.
assist in keeping your fat gain minimal as you The biggest takeaway should be that
move towards your goals. The aim is to eat enough anything worthwhile is not achieved overnight.
protein, carbohydrates and fats, to be able to grow, Everything earned in life always tastes sweeter
but to work out the ratio in a manner that’s suited than if achieved instantly. If you want to reach
towards your particular body type. For example, your physical goals, set a long term plan in
IMAGE: MATT SAYLES
if you’re a hard gainer, ie, someone who struggles place and take one step closer to it, day by
to put on weight, you may need to eat more day. In your physical journey, just as in life,
carbohydrates and fats than someone like me who sometimes you need to take a couple of steps
puts on fat very easily. back, in order to take several steps forward.
m ic
yna
D Evolution
Evolution
W
hat started out as a small business in a car
shed in Bengaluru 23 years ago has slowly
grown to become a prominent luxury brand.
With its range of furniture, Stanley Lifestyles,
founded by Sunil Suresh, is one of the biggest
players in the decor industry today.
Over the years, the brand has branched out into various
categories and ranges; like the Global Living Emporio, a one-
Sit up and take notice as Stanley Lifestyles
of-a-kind decor mall with more than 40 international brands;
takes over the decor scene with its Stanley Boutique for the best and exclusive Stanley products;
unmatched designs, new showrooms and an Sofas & More stores for affordable luxury; and Stanley Next
upcoming online store Level, a new-gen store with futuristic concepts, as well as a
fashion range. Despite the constant expansion, the brand has
continued to retain its core ethos of designing and developing
products that reflect quality and durability.
Stanley is also big on customisation: Be it for the size,
colour or upholstery of a chosen furniture piece, you will
get exactly what you want, and nothing less. The brand
believes in customers experiencing the products first, having
launched three new Sofas & More stores in August this year.
“It’s surprising to many that during the pandemic we
are opening stores,” Suresh says. “But the matter of fact
is, businesses need to counter the sentiments and move
forward. Being positive and spirited works wonders.
It’s important to focus on business, employees and all
stakeholders, rather than the stigma attached to Covid.”
Riding high on this momentum, the brand aims at opening
100 stores across India by 2025 and becoming the largest
name in the segment, ready to take on Chinese imports. WORDS: JANICE FERNANDES
Coming soon is an online

store, which means all
Stanley Lifestyles products
will be available to you
in a single click
58
GQ PROMOTION
RECREATING
THE MAGIC OF
STORYTELLING
With episodes featuring
fascinating stories that give us
a peek into the lives of brilliant
artists and their incredible
lives, Teacher’s Genuine
Stories is back with its second
season to take us on a journey
through the best of art, culture,
entertainment, music and more
What is it about a great book that
catches our attention? Is it the author’s
perspective on the topic, their style of
writing or the ability to transport you
to another world? Sure, it is all of the
above but, the biggest draw would
have to be the story in itself. And
with this thought, Teacher’s Genuine “EVERY PIECE OF CLOTHING WE CREATE IS A STORY WE TELL. AND WHEN
Stories’ brand new season spotlights PEOPLE ACROSS THE GLOBE WEAR OUR CLOTHES; WE KNOW THAT THE
individuals and storytellers from STORY OUR FASHION HAS TOLD IS A GENUINE AND UNIVERSAL ONE.”
varied backgrounds as they share
their passions and incredible Lewis who is amongst India’s most label in 2002. However, their biggest
life stories. esteemed choreographers, made turning point was dressing up
After a hugely successful Season giant strides to bring contemporary American singer Fergie for FIFA in
one, the opening episode of season dance to the forefront in India. From 2010 and since then, they’ve worked
two launched with host actor and humble beginnings as a newcomer with Katy Perry, Beyonce, Jennifer
activist Rahul Bose and dance curator, with no formal training in dance to Lopez, Kim Kardashian, etc. From
Terence Lewis as the special guest. gaining international fame, Lewis Indian fashion weeks, they graduated
offers a glimpse into to the New York Fashion Week and
his exceptional story today, they work with global icons on
“I DON’T as he talks about his international projects and red carpet
REMEMBER passion for dance and appearances. If this isn’t inspiring,
A TIME WHEN how every performance we don’t know what is!
DANCE WAS is an intrinsic, almost So, if you are looking for some
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WHO I WAS. for him. Genuine Stories to hear passionate
IT TELLS THE Renowned for their first person accounts of real stories
WORLD WHO I edgy, avant garde that will move you and motivate you.
AM – IT TELLS style, the power couple You can catch all episodes of
ME WHO I AM. of Indian fashion — Teacher’s Genuine Stories on YouTube.
WHEN I DANCE, Falguni and Shane
I SEE MYSELF Peacock — feature
AS BEING PART in the next episode
OF A LARGER of Teacher’s Genuine
COSMIC STORY Stories. Their journey
– AND YET IT IS to international
ALSO MY STORY stardom started with
TO TELL” the duo giving up their
respective careers to
follow their dreams to
set up their clothing PRESENTED BY TEACHER'S GLASSES
NO
Reservations
OA
NOTES FROM THE
DIASPORA
In Ravi Patel’s jocular, ever-expanding universe, any resemblance to actual

persons or events is purely intentional. It is also a means to find answers
to the big questions, discover parts unknown and build community. The
American actor-creator of Indian origin weighs in on his extraordinary
journey so far – from an investment banker to a stint in Wonder Woman 1984
– and his future capers on the road to world domination
WRITTEN BY NIDHI GUPTA
It figures that his major influences include Seinfeld,

Arrested Development and anything by Woody Allen
and Wes Anderson; all in evidence in the work he
would go on to do. Patel mines his personal life, and
that of his closest people, to tell authentic stories
about the way we live now. The wisecracks are
aplenty in this unusual anthropological project, and
Patel is his own favourite subject.
After 2014, his career went into overdrive. “I was
on the road for seven months of the first year of my
daughter’s life,” he says over a Zoom call from his
LA home. He was working on scripts, such as the
feature adaptation of Meet The Patels; “producing
three different things”; running This Saves Lives,
a company he’d co-founded; acting in films and TV
shows big and small, including Master Of None and
Long Shot. “It had all become one big blur,” he says.
Anyone who’s worked with Seth Rogen has a Seth “The thing is, in entertainment, when you get busy,
Rogen weed story. Ravi Patel’s involves having his you get busier.”
life changed for the better. “Some years ago, I was So there Patel was, on the couch in his empty
doing a film with Seth,” says Patel referring to Long home at 10am on that fateful day in 2018. He
Shot, also starring Charlize Theron, “and he gave took two hits of his precious spliff and landed on
me a joint. I like weed, but I don’t smoke it all that another planet. “I realised two things,” he says.
much. So one day, when my shoot got cancelled and “One, if you’re not much of a smoker, Seth Rogen’s
my wife and daughter were back in LA, I decided to weed is not the place to start.” Two, that he was
take a ‘me’ day.” deeply unhappy. In this “Jerry Maguire moment”,
This is circa 2018, a time Patel remembers being Patel opened up a Google Doc, christened it “I AM
rife with sleepless nights, depression and acrimony SO UNHAPPY” and wrote down an aspirational
at home. He’d been working hard to make it in business plan along with a commitment to improve
Hollywood for over a decade. He’d followed his sister, his life. He began to see a therapist. He started
film-maker Geeta Patel, to LA after he’d been laid off keeping a gratitude journal. He’d decided he was
from his job as an investment banker in NYC. Patel going to invest more in his happiness.
jokes he was probably fuelled by “that immigrant A year later, this incident would become the
desperation to succeed.” backdrop in which Patel framed his story for the
In 2014, the actor-writer-director-investor was CNN docu-series, Ravi Patel’s Pursuit Of Happiness.
catapulted into mainstream consciousness with “A few weeks after Anthony Bourdain passed away,”
Meet The Patels, an autobiographical documentary he recounts, “CNN was meeting with everyone
co-created with his sister. Six years in the making, in town to find new talent. I met the president, I
it captured a very real and bizarrely comical told him how one of my biggest dreams is to build
situation: That of his family’s journey with finding the perfect neighbourhood. How I study ‘how
their 30-year-old son an Indian bride. Part Candid to have fun’. He was like, we want to give you a
Camera, part Meet The Parents, it won resounding little money to shoot a pilot; just make sure it
praise from all quarters.
IMAGE: STORM SANTOS
When it arrived on Netflix, Meet The Patels was

reportedly second only to the viral documentary
Making A Murderer in popularity. The film displayed
Patel’s unique comfort with being in front of the
camera and a seemingly infinite capacity for humour.
“I think the state of comedy
is a sign of how quickly
the culture is evolving, not
you can lie in a coffin, write yourself a eulogy
just in India, but around and reconsider your priorities.
“At any other point in life,” Patel continues,
the world – it’s a reflection “I would’ve tried to make a show that I
thought everyone else wants. It would’ve been
of globalisation. People opportunistic. But at this point I was like, I’ve
been a part of so many failed TV shows as an
that didn’t normally have actor, I know how easily things come and go in
this town. So I was like, what’s a show that I’ll
a market price, now have have fun making regardless of how it does?”
Turns out, family and community were key
these giant audiences” ingredients. “Our culture is community first,”
Patel observes. “Speaking just in terms of
Hollywood, in generations past, a lot of people
approached it alone. They had to get to the top
and love themselves and do it on their own. Now,
involves international travel. It was the biggest
you see that community spirit come back. It’s
opportunity of my life.”
actually hip to be brown right now. Those people,
Laughter (loud, full-throated and very
who sort of shunned their South Asian identity,
infectious) is a stock character in Ravi Patel’s
are now talking about it and, perhaps, coming
Pursuit Of Happiness (streaming on HBO Max).
H
closer to a part of themselves.”
It’s also there to underline the epiphanies and
insights occuring to its main characters. Across
ollywood itself is changing
four episodes, Patel travels with people he loves
NOTES FROM THE
– people have an “allergy”

most in the world, to answer some big questions
to writing stereotypical
DIASPORA
“that we’d all benefit from answering.”

Indian characters with
With his parents (who have a cult fandom
wonky accents now, he
of their own following the success of Meet
feels – as is the very
The Patels), he adventures in Mexico, visiting
fabric of American society.
“the world’s hottest retirement community in
As we speak, an all-stars event called South
Mérida,” to figure out “what we want in this
Asian Block Party (in support of Biden-Harris)
next phase of life.” With his wife Mahaley, Patel
is taking place over Instagram. Nearly every
travels to Japan to understand a parenting style
brown celebrity and creative in the US is
that involves “extreme attachment till age six”
participating in a loud campaign to get people
with their children “and extreme detachment
from this demographic – that makes up almost
after that”.
two per cent of the US population – out to vote.
In Denmark, he hangs out with his friend
“I don’t remember an event like this happening
Abdullah Saeed, a former journalist and a punk
ever before,” says Patel. “We didn’t have this
band drummer, to reckon with the immigrant
many public faces even four years ago. It’s about
experience in what is known as the second-
time it’s coming out of the entertainment scene.”
happiest country in the world. (Spoiler: It isn’t
His own task: To make endless Zoom calls to
if you’re not white.) In South Korea, he takes
his extended family. “I’m a Patel, so my family’s
another close friend Matt Pohlson (who “died”
huge,” he laughs. “I’ve been telling people, we
for four and a half minutes before a successful
can swing this election by ourselves.”
resuscitation) to a Death Cafe: A place where
“[The South Asian diaspora is] taking over
the fucking world!” he says. “I think I’ll do
something around the diaspora next.” For now,
he’s spending his time in quarantine “chillin’”
with his daughter Amelie and practising that
balance he craves. December brings with it
two big releases – well, one for sure, since
Wonder Woman 1984’s opening might well be a
Christmas miracle. “I’ve been told to keep my
mouth tight shut, but all I can say is that I play
a pivotal role, and I got to wear a very cool wig.”
Patel recounts working with director Patty
Jenkins in Five, an anthology TV movie, back in
2011. “It was in the early part of my career when
(Above) Ravi I was still playing those stereotypical contrived
Patel with the roles,” he says, “and I never expected her to
cast of Long
remember me. But she called me to audition for
Shot; (Right) With
his co-stars this film. Now, these auditions are super secret,
from Richard they make fake sites. My audition basically had
Wongʼs Come As me playing Vince Vaughn from The Swingers.
You Are, a buddy To this date, I have no idea why because the
IMAGE: COURTESY MEET THE PATELS FILM (MEET THE PATELS), SHUTTERSTOCK (CAST OF LONG SHOT), GETTY IMAGES (CAST OF COME AS YOU ARE)
comedy where
three men with
character’s nothing like that.”
disabilities His character in Bhaag Beanie Bhaag – a
take an “epic” dramedy series created with Neel Shah and
road-trip shot in Mumbai late last year, and arriving on
Netflix in December – is a bit like him. He plays
the “American love interest” to Swara Bhasker’s
lead act as a dutiful Indian girl who goes against
the grain to try stand-up comedy. In the three
months he was here, Patel decided to also shoot for emerging voices. People that didn’t
a second docu-series, How To Tell A Joke In normally have a market price, now have
India, which is being produced by Will Smith’s these giant audiences.”
Westbrook and is expected to be out in 2021. Back home, Patel thinks Hasan Minhaj’s
“It’s basically about me trying to make it as voice is “important”. He’s recently been floored
a stand-up in India,” he laughs, “which is funny by Aparna Nancherla’s unique brand of
since I’m not a comic, I don’t speak Hindi and awkward comedy. He’s also terribly proud of his
I’m not ‘India Indian’. But it’s also about using sister, who has “evolved into one of the hottest
comedy as a trojan horse into the culture.” This directors in town.” “Meet The Patels changed our
Bourdain-esque pursuit involved hooking up lives,” he says more than once.
with leading Indian comedians – Abish Mathew, What did he think of Indian Matchmaking’s
Kaneez Surka, the AIB guys – and doing open wild success? “I watched three episodes,” he
mics around Mumbai and beyond. In Baroda, grins, adding that everybody called and asked
it was a sort of homecoming where he felt his him to weigh in. “I think they did a decent job. Is
comedy came to life, despite sounding like “a it a kind of show I would make? No. It’s a reality
sixth-grader when I speak Gujarati.” show, there’s a certain voyeurism and flash that
“It’s crazy what’s going on with comedy in that genre has to have. I hear there’s an Indian
India,” says Patel. “I think the state of comedy Shahs Of Sunset on Bravo now” – by which
is a sign of how quickly the culture is evolving, he means Family Karma, a docu-series about
not just in India, but around the world – it’s a filthy rich Indian family’s hi-jinks living in
a reflection of globalisation. You see it more Miami. “I guess if we were to be on the forefront
in what they call emerging markets. Fifteen of society, we have to be visible on every front,
years ago, it didn’t exist; now it’s a platform including reality TV.”
THE WILD WEB
WEAPONS
OF MASS
You’ve heard it before:

Social media is addictive
and manipulative and
rewiring your brain
every day. But the
truth is, it is possible

S
to break out of the tech teve Jobs was doing what he did best.
Casting a spell on the audience. It
cage, if you subtract the was 2010 and Jobs was presenting the
hyperbole and induce iPad as the ultimate tool for watching
movies, typing an email, listening to
incremental changes. music, browsing the internet and using
Going cold turkey never apps. The only thing that Jobs didn’t tell the audience
was that he would never allow his own children to use
worked for anyone an iPad.
As we know now, Jobs wasn’t alone in limiting
screen time at home. Many other global tech leaders
WRITTEN BY RAJIV MAKHNI – from Bill Gates to Reddit founder Alexis Ohanian;
Evan Williams of Twitter to Apple’s CEO Tim Cook
– have enforced similar rules at home. What is it
that has made all these technocrats build devices
and services that the world uses every day, and yet,
they have a hands-off policy for their own family and Despite warnings, literally
children? Because they’ve all known, first hand, the
seductive dangers of their products.
every social network has
For years, tech insiders, researchers and refuseniks seen explosive growth in
have been warning us about what social networks are
doing to our brains. Social media is addictive. The lure the last six months, both
of the smartphone is irresistible. If it’s free, then you’re
the product. You’ve heard enough of these statements.
in terms of time spent per
You’ve seen the proof. Yet, we continue to pick up our user as well as the number
phones 200 times a day and refresh Instagram even if
we checked it just ten seconds ago. of people using them
Conversations around our tech addiction were
rekindled recently by Jeff Orlowski’s docudrama The
Social Dilemma. People were brutally awakened as is an engine built for addiction. There are some very
to how we were being systematically manipulated by canny people on the other side of the screen whose
algorithms to remain online; plus, the effect it has on very profession is built around fracturing the self-
news, polarisation, elections, depression and suicide discipline you are trying so hard to muster. Social
rates. The film, streaming on Netflix, had such a media companies hire as many psychologists as they
reaction that Facebook, in a very misguided PR effort, do coders.
chose to respond by putting out a seven-point rebuttal This is a David vs Goliath fight. It’s an uneven
on the documentary – with the net effect that it led to battle with everything stacked against you. The good
even more people checking out the documentary. news is that David won, and so can you. Here are
VR pioneer Jaron Lanier’s Ten Arguments For seven simple steps that work.
Deleting Your Social Media, was another hot topic First, agree within yourself that you are being
when it released in 2018. He famously called social manipulated and that social media has become a
media “the cage that goes everywhere with you”. source of dopamine hits for you, which is no different
The book was a call to arms to rip the band-aid off. from a drug addiction.
Deliberations, debates and arguments are aplenty – Next, install a third party app that monitors the
action, less so. Despite the warnings, literally every amount of time you spend online. (Don’t use the ones
social network has seen explosive growth in the last by Apple, Google or Facebook – those are self-serving.)
six months, both in terms of time spent per user as It will prove to you that the amount of time you spend
S
well as the number of people using them. online is way more than you think, plus very cognisant
of time spent on a particular app.
Now, remove the email app from your phone – I
know, this is a big one, but email is the biggest
o, is there no way out? Do we as addiction and distraction known to mankind – and
humans just not have the willpower to reduce your email interaction to when you’re on a
resist? Is our enslavement to tech all- laptop or PC.
consuming and unbreakable? There’s Next, take all your social media apps, instant
good and bad news. messaging apps and anything else that shows an
The problem is that the documentaries, the books, “unread” counter and put them all on the last page of
the columns – all excellent and well researched – only your phone. This disengages the psychological trigger
tell half the story. They shock and awe and go viral, of “running counter apps” on your home screen.
but do not always offer a real, tangible solution. You Now, turn off all notifications for all apps, front
recoil in horror, make some promises about how you screen as well as anywhere else. Notifications are a
will change your usage pattern and then within hours, clever tactic and feature that distracts and forms an
fall back into the comforting warmth of your social unintentional habit.
media embrace. Next, plug in the charger of your phone outside
That’s because the quick fix being meted out is your bedroom and leave your phone there as soon as
that you must withdraw lock, stock and barrel. All you come home. Encourage all your family members to
or nothing. This is practically impossible and falls do the same. Not having constant physical and visual
right into the trap of that enticing manipulation that access to your phone breaks the “hook” to pick it up at
already has safeguards built in for people wanting to regular intervals for no reason.
IMAGE: GETTY IMAGES
go cold turkey. Last, ban any screens or devices whenever there are
It’s also self-defeating. We beat ourselves up when more than two people in a room and at meals.
we fail to reduce the amount of time we spend online. And, bam! You just broke through the first bar of
You have to understand that what you’re up against your tech cage. Freedom is imminent.
t ri
S eoryn g
T h
Acquaint yourself with
SURII, the solo music
project of SGBG Atelier’s
Surya Giri, who is
bridging time and space
in his rich, emotive
compositions where
the precision of Indian
classical ragas meets the
production capabilities of
21st-century technology
F
rom the moment Surya Giri picked up the violin WORDS: NIDHI GUPTA. IMAGE: ARYA GIRI (SURYA), JIA SUNG (YOU'RE NOT ALONE ARTWORK)
as a child, chordophones have had a special place
in his life. “I really love strings,” says the 25-year-
old musician one early morning recently over a
Zoom call. “You can make things sound instantly
nostalgic or antiquated. Or you can tuck it under
a number of things and keep it current. They
are the most malleable set of instruments to use anywhere. Plus,
there’s nothing more gratifying than the string section of an orchestra
executing a piece that has so far only lived inside your head.”
He is sitting in his mussed up studio/ bedroom at his family home
in Chennai, an assortment of instruments all around him. In one
corner of the room, a blue drum set hides behind a couple of guitars
on a stand and an LP player on the floor. In another, a few violins,
more guitars, amps and other gear rest in black stickered cases. Yet
another guitar lies casually on a bed, a keyboard sits next to him at
his workstation.
THE HIGH NOTE
Giri can play them all. The piano lessons began, that is part puzzle, part magic realism; speaking
with some reluctance, at age three while he was living of youth’s unlimited potential and referencing the
in St Louis, Missouri. But it really was the violin, Daedalus-Icarus myth to muse on the ideas of family,
which came into his life five years later after his family home and belonging.
moved to Singapore that got him hooked. “From VS In “You’re Not Alone”, Giri has coded in some
Narasimhan,” – the virtuoso, his guru, who has also recordings of the traditional Oppari singers that
been a part of AR Rahman’s and Ilayaraja’s orchestras performed the mourning ritual at his grandfather’s
– “I learnt how to bring harmony and melody together.” funeral into the synths and percussion. “It’s very
The discipline of it was fascinating to him, and it powerful to witness,” he says. “They construct the
became the basis for Giri’s interest in composition, whole architecture of the night, they tell you when you
curious as he was “to strategically deploy a certain note need to be feeling a certain way; when to bring in the
and let another loose.” full force of emotion, when to dial it back.”
For the past five years, Giri, who is better known He describes his upcoming single, “Try Again”, as
as the co-founder of the rising Chennai-based fashion the “straightforward pop track”. “It’s a love song on
label SGBG Atelier (along with his mother Bindu the surface, but once you look at the lyrics, you’ll not
Giri), has been quietly putting together his solo music really be sure for whom,” he says, adding, “I’ve been
project. While sound has also been the root for all their really obsessed with songwriting that sounds like it’s
designs from the label, Giri’s been working to put his a formula,” he says. “You’ve to go from intro to verse
lifelong passion for composition and learnings from to pre-chorus to chorus to break. The architecture is
the University of Chicago, into something with its own formulaic, but to flip it, and find interesting ways of
identity, without being disconnected. actually modulating it, is hard.”
As in design, his approach to music is one of There will be more singles releasing through 2021.
exploring “tradition through its possibilities, not as a Giri is now building his vision for how he’ll play
relic of the past.” “The process of making music really his music live, when the time is right. Perhaps that
anchors me,” he says, explaining its appeal for him as American film he worked on with “the really famous
a third culture kid who has lived in several countries director who has also produced a bunch of movies in
before returning to Chennai. “It roots me in my India” will finally orbit out of “production limbo” and
ancestry, but also gives me a sense of home.” find a release date.
Giri has grown up “obsessing over” Beethoven and But Giri’s already decided on his next experiment
Mahler as much as Tyagaraja and Rahman. He has with instruments. “I want to learn how to play the
been a fan of The Raghu Dixit Project and Swarathma. veena, it’s just so expressive.” He has the muscle
And he has followed Nitin Sawhney and Karsh Kale’s memory for it. Then, there are a “couple of drums from
generation of musicians, “the predecessors of the scene, Kazakhstan that sound amazing.” And maybe the
the people who were building out the vocabulary of mridangam – “or something just as crazy” – after that.
what was possible before any of us could even think “You look at Carnatic music, Hindustani music, our
about putting music out.” folk music traditions,” Giri enthuses. “You look at the
His global influences are evident in the music many ragas, the many nodes at which they can connect.
he’s begun to release under the moniker SURII, as You think about the structure through which you can
on his work for BBC and Al Jazeera documentaries. construct and perform this raga. You’re looking at
His first single, “You’re Not Alone”, is a gentle track huge potential, in both technique and emotion. Now,
about empathy in a world gone wrong. Its funereal when you think about this outside of the traditional
march begins against a curtain of Shilpa Rao’s vocals constructs and try to bring something new in: Then it
and swells midway with a swathe of rich violin notes becomes limitless.”
buoying Sid Sriram and Giri’s vocals, punctuated by
Ryan Fyffe’s staccato drums.
(Right) Artwork for “You’re
“You’re Not Alone” and a battery of songs you’ll Not Alone”; (Below) From a
find in a SoundCloud tab on his website – all of which recording session at Rahman’s
he plans to release in the next year as singles – had AM Studios, Chennai
existed in some protean form for a long time. The
sound and narrative, he says, came together while he
was at his ancestral village to attend his grandfather’s
funeral. “I think I sort of got caught up in the
effervescence of everything,” he recalls. “You know,
that atmosphere where it just felt like everything was
buzzing with an energy around its edges.”
“Or maybe it was just that I hadn’t slept in two
days,” he laughs. “But, either way, it was a pivotal
moment. Long story short, I saw about five different
things that I’d been working on, just click into place. I
saw the whole progression, I saw the chords. I started
sculpting.” He has chipped out a coming-of-age story
Fintech wizkid and the founder of Zerodha, Nithin Kamath, has parlayed a personal passion
for trading into building the country’s leading broking firm in the span of a decade. And now
he’s overseeing a period of explosive growth for the company in the midst of a pandemic,
thanks to a new generation of first-time investors. Arun Janardhan gets the low-down
A
bicycle, pinned majestically which means…” he pauses for a bit, “I had to be like
on a wall, makes a frequent that. It’s like a roller coaster. You can’t get excited
appearance in video chats with every day. That’s the way to survive.”
Nithin Kamath. Its elevated In its tenth year now, Zerodha is the country’s leading
stature, according to him, is broking firm, ascribing itself a valuation of $1 billion,
indicative that the cycle is not accounting for about 15 per cent of the country’s daily
being used enough. equity transaction volume. More than half of its three
One reason for that is Kamath has been fairly busy, million users are supposed to be first time investors.
and Bengaluru is not the cycle-friendly city it used to Young professionals, till now caught between the
be. Besides ed-tech, eSports and a few other wholly options of buying a home or setting up a family, or
digital businesses, Kamath’s company Zerodha Broking indeed, liquidating it all in the nearest bar, sat on the
Ltd has been one of the beneficiaries of an extended fence when it came to investing in markets. They didn’t
nationwide lockdown. Boredom, financial insecurity, have the time nor, perhaps, the inclination because of
spare time and not enough cricket on TV has driven office work and other distractions, unlike a 40-plus-
young people to search for investment options instead. year-old who is already familiar with mutual funds and
Online stockbroker firm Zerodha has become an apt systematic investment plans (SIPs). While this senior
entry point for these new investors, propelled by a falling lot has become more introspective since March, possibly
stock market and lower interest rates offered by banks. because they are already well invested, or want to stay
While businesses across the world shuttered down or as liquid as possible due to financial uncertainties, the
hobbled along uncertainly, Zerodha added a million new 20- or 30-year-olds finally found an opportunity.
customers since the pandemic – about 2,00,000 monthly Just the other day, Zerodha had its largest single-
– to its existing two million inventory. day new account openings, about 11,500, propelled by
The founder and CEO of Zerodha explains how the the Happiest Minds Technologies IPO (initial public
firm reacted fast by switching to #WFH three weeks offering), because a new company inevitably brings a
before lockdown brought the country to a grinding surge of interest.
halt. “It gave people [its employees] enough time to buy But, while joyous over the enthusiasm shown by the
furniture, get their internet sorted, get new chairs, you youth, Kamath throws in a few words of caution. This
know…” he says, grinning. “In today’s world, fast beats audience comes with small amounts of money because
slow, rather than big beating small.” 70 per cent of the wealth in the country is still with the
His business, dependent on the vagaries of the older chaps. Kamath mentions Zerodha’s direct mutual
stock market, requires a kind of detachment that’s fund platform Coin, which has 3,00,000 users who
imperative to survival. You can’t take too seriously, together account for `6,500 crore of AUM (assets under
says the boyish looking 41-year-old, what isn’t in your management). On True Beacon, its wealth management
control. “I’ve traded and survived for over a decade firm, there is one customer who has `6,500 crore of
[before Zerodha] without jumping off a building, mutual funds.
“I think the world is in trouble – I don’t know if what
“When you’re
the indices here show is the right measure of what’s
happening to the economy. I don’t know how we will
young, you’re
create new jobs. Stock markets will probably, according
to me, underperform for the next two-three years.” stupid. Trading
But it’s not all gloom and doom yet.
At home, in a round-neck T-shirt and a gold chain gives you a
occasionally peeping out, Kamath does not conform to
the stereotype propagated by Michael Douglas’ slick- dopamine kind of
haired, suited Gordon Gekko. That was over 30 years
ago – Kamath doesn’t have the first generation brick- rush. It’s difficult
to get off it”
sized mobile phone either. What he does have is the
framed cycle, framed share certificates on a wall to his
right, a tattoo on his left arm and an ease of manner
that belies the stressful profession he practises.
His father was a banker, which meant Kamath If 2010 was a bad time to start a broking business,
moved every few years, before settling down in during the financial crisis and by people with no proven
Bengaluru in the ninth standard. He was admitted to pedigree in the business, it proved to be one of Kamath’s
the Bangalore Institute of Technology because everyone gains in the long run. Nobody would bankroll them,
in that generation was studying engineering anyway. making theirs a rare company to start from zero. “I
College was a “distraction”, so he started trading realised that when you advertise, you’re compromised.
markets early while still a teenager. By the time college The customer knows I need them more than they need
ended, he had borrowed and blown up money once. me. Your business can never scale then.”
“When you’re young, you’re stupid. Trading, all “We realised that this leverage we have, of not
said and done, gives you a dopamine kind of rush. It’s having investors, is significant. Some decisions,
difficult to get off it. Luckily for me, I accidentally ended like Kailash Nadh [its chief technology officer, who
up selecting something I loved doing. It worked out, but subsequently built the online product] joining us, were
could have easily not. I was stupidly passionate about instinctive. We went zero brokerage in 2015 for equity
trading – probably still am – and so gave it multiple investing, which was an overnight decision. It’s tough to
H
shots,” he says. build consensus around those decisions, and if you wait,
often you don’t take those decisions. Abstinence [from
e worked in a call centre, which external investments] is the key,” he says, laughing.
allowed him to trade during His abstinence from cycling has been replaced with
the day, till 2005 when he met HIIT classes because wife Seema Patil, also the chief
his first customer who asked of quality at Zerodha, is “one of those six-pack women”.
him to manage his money. One Kamath had put on some weight in the initial months of
customer soon became many. lockdown, which necessitated a nudge from the spouse
“Because I started trading early and a trainer.
in life, I didn’t study in school There are some doubts now over his loyalty to the
and college – my life lessons come from trading and Golden State Warriors, after the NBA team went from
markets,” he says. underpaid underdog to a throw-money-at-everyone
At the time, in 2010, brokerage charges were high team. Basketball has taken a backseat also because
because most brokers factored in the cost of research the last two years have been “crazy hectic”. Instead, a
teams and fancy offices in expensive Mumbai. The idea 30-minute daily session with five-year-old drummer
was to start a firm that was low cost and transparent, son Kiaan has become mandatory for Kamath, who’s
without raising money from investors. Thanks to the becoming partial to minimal techno music.
now discontinued NSE Now, a trading platform for Since no conversation is complete without a
members of the exchange started in 2008, they were reference to the virus, he says we should be reacting
able to start a brokerage firm without having to invest to climate change the way we’re reacting to Covid-19
in new technology. – with urgency. Zerodha’s fintech fund and incubator,
His younger brother Nikhil, who is now Zerodha’s Rainmatter Capital Pvt Ltd, was started to contribute
chief information officer, joined him in co-founding the to grassroots companies – it has about 18 firms
zero brokerage company. The siblings consciously choose invested in or incubated. An idea close to him is
to stay out of each other’s way – business is seldom a digitising a forest – buy large chunks of land, convert
family dinner table conversation. them into forest and see if there is an opportunity to
They form the proverbial yin and yang – Nikhil the create an asset class, like bitcoin. One of the fallouts
eternal pessimist, Nithin the optimist. “He is a lot more of this – Rainmatter therefore acquires land – is a
stoic than I am – and I’m pretty stoic. The only way to possible move to Krishnagiri, on the border of Tamil
survive is by demarcating roles. The problem with families Nadu and Karnataka.
is when there are issues, they don’t talk about them. You “If we are doing this next year, you’ll probably see a
leave it for later and that causes conflicts,” Kamath says. lot of trees behind me.”
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This embellished OTT pair the best for a Sangeet

of ombre loafers is all you need ceremony. Opt for this
to dress the part for a big fat hand-padded one - there
Indian wedding is no better time than
now to celebrate craftsmanship
LINE-UP
Not for the faint-

hearted, these snakeskin
loafers will definitely
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your wedding wardrobe is
this chunky-soled derby
shoe. Pair it with a double-
breasted suit to inject an
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If you’re a minimalist and

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hy e
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IN THE BAG
THE
LOUIS VUITTON
CARRY
A new take and
sheen on your
most important
accessories
DIOR MEN
WORDS: SHIVANGI LOLAYEKAR. IMAGE: COURTESY OF BACKGRID (GUCCI)
DOUBLE WHAMMY
You can’t overlook the Jackie 1961: Gucci’s iconic bag from the
1960s that became emblematic of a jetsetter era, and, at the BURBERRY
same time, defined mod fashion with disco and Woodstockian
cool. All trends that exist in our present fashion universe.
The Italian house’s erudite Creative Director Alessandro
Michele puts the spotlight on the Gucci Jackie 1961 (available
in three sizes: mini, small and medium), adding innovative,
creative dimensions – minimalism through cleaner lines to
focus on the piston closure; a non-binary take with colours
like black, red, lilac, soft pink; and versatility with longer,
FENDI
removable shoulder straps. Who better than Harry Styles to
best represent it?
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WHY HOLLYWOOD LOVES

STYLE HACKS
hy e
p
THE
Making Conscious
Choices
“Coming from a large Rajasthani
family, my mailbox is flooded
with wedding invites through the
year. Let’s accept it: Attending a
wedding is stressful these days,
especially if there are dress
codes involved. You don’t want
to look back at those boomerang
videos and social media feed
later and regret what you wore.
Another concern is navigating
through the wedding season in
a more sustainable way. Over
the years, I have made a thumb
rule to not shop for a wedding
unless it’s absolutely necessary.
Investing in statement pieces
in black or neutral hues (if you
are a minimalist like me) and
then building the entire look,
including accessories, around it
is the safest approach. Reusing
is one of the most traditional
ways of going circular when
planning your wedding wardrobe.
Mixing heirloom pieces with
your new ones will not only
grab eyeballs for its vintage
appeal, but is also a smarter
way of saving money. Look out
for designers like Jeetinder
Sandhu who specialise in
upcycling fabrics to create festive
accessories, or even online portals
COME
from where you can rent out
a designer sherwani without
burning a hole in your pocket.”
—RAHUL VIJAY
THROUGH
A GQ style guide on how to achieve the perfect wedding
guest look during the upcoming celebratory season
Selecting The Right Accessories

“I firmly believe that the only thing that can make or break a well-fitting
outfit is accessories. And the same rule applies when it comes to wedding
or festive dressing too. Choosing accessories wisely and carefully is
imperative. Personally, I love wearing a single conversation-starter piece of
jewellery with my ethnic fits that are usually minimal in terms of colour and
embellishments. This helps my outfit stand out in a room full of bling, even
PHOTO: FARHAN HUSSAIN
though it is just one single piece – proving less is always more. No need to
worry if you aren’t a fan of sporting jewellery: Nothing beats the charisma
of a vintage dress watch. My only advice to anyone shopping this wedding
season would be to stay away from logos. Weddings should be the last place
where you loudly flaunt the big names from your closet.” —SELMAN FAZIL
ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST.IN
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All figures mentioned above
are as of October 2020
THE AUDIENCE:
MASSIMO LISTRI
THE LUXURY DESIGN CONSUMER

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THE FRAGRANCE
SPECIAL
ACQUA DI PARMA
COLONIA FUTURA
With Italian citrus, clary sage
and vetiver at its core, this soft
but crisp fragrance is made up of
99 per cent natural ingredients, NAUTICA VOYAGE
making it both safer and longer- With a hit like a wafting sea breeze
lasting than many. It springs open sprinkled with salt and drops of dew, this
with a bouquet of lavender and is a must-have for anyone who’s looking for
lemon, winding into vetiver and classic aqua-style freshness. The mix of
sage as the composition ends. fragrant green leaves, citrusy mimosa and
Refreshing, but with a sense of the soft sweetness of lotus makes this feel
hold. Price on Request like a beach vacation in a bottle. �3,050
THE RIGHT ACCORD

Nothing quite defines a man like a signature scent. Whether it’s fresh, fougère,
oriental or gourmand, the right perfume can underline your personality effortlessly.
Just choose your fragrance family, and leave the rest to us
FRESH ALFRED DUNHILL

CENTURY BLUE
With its enveloping warm-
slash-fresh fragrance, this new
THE BODY SHOP blend is a great citrus for the
WHITE MUSK SPORT chillier seasons. Not so much
burst-of-ice as layered ripples
WORDS: SAUMYAA VOHRA. COORDINATION: MEGHA MEHTA. IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK (GRAPEFRUIT, CINNAMON)
EAU DE TOILETTE
A light, citrus EDT is the kind of of cool, the mandarin orange and
daily staple every fresh fragrance bergamot that start the scent
aficionado needs in his trousse flow seamlessly into the later
de toilette, and the White Musk notes of neroli, ginger and sea
Sport fits that bill to a T. Zingy salt. Think island vibe with hints
top notes of grapefruit and lemon of lush forest. �6,500
are anchored by the earthiness
of the amber base, and the result
is a strong (but not over the top)
perfume that coasts you through
the day. �1,545
S P I CY
BOSS THE SCENT

ABSOLUTE FOR HIM
A spicy balsamic fragrance
held in place by the rugged
rawness of Haitian vetiver,
the oriental notes in this one
is a power-packer. The mix of
ginger, mondia root, Maninka
fruit and amber add to its
ABERCROMBIE & FITCH
sense of strength, making it
– AUTHENTIC MAN
exactly the kind of perfume
The juicy notes of this aromatic-
that announces your arrival
citrus scent tend to maintain
without shouting it. �7,050
the line between icy and hot,
and that’s exactly what makes it
exciting. The cooler accords of
grapefruit, ginger and lavender
perfectly counter the soft warmth
of the clearwood and suede
at its base. It also transitions
seamlessly from day to night.
�4,900
GUCCI GUILTY LOVE

EDITION POUR HOMME
Packing enough tantalising citrus
accords to almost push it over into
the fresh family, the contents of
this pastel-green bottle balance
out with trapeze-like expertise. Its
top notes of kumquat, mandarin
orange and ginger have a citrusy
bite that ends in the rich musk of
benzoin and patchouli. Spicy, but
in its freshest form. �7,850
CAROLINA HERRERA BAD BOY

Still fresh from its launch last year, this one
is already a veritable classic. Created by
perfumers Quentin Bisch and Louise Turner,
FERRAGAMO UOMO SIGNATURE this masculine take on the delicious Good
The opaque black bottle of this leathery scent Girl is laced with bergamot, pepper, cedar
is a precursor to its air of fervour. The tonka- and sage on a decadent tonka-cacao base –
coffee combination is the heady bedrock here, piquant and powerful. �6,950
with notes of cardamom, pink pepper and
cinnamon that waft off the surface at first spritz.
A long-lasting blend that leaves dark notes in its
aftermath. �6,200
AIGNER FIRST CLASS EXPLORER
Playful and light, this spicy floral was made
for a Hawaiian-shirted brunch or a poolside CHOPARD GARDENS
staycation. Of its layered notes, the fun tones of OF PARADISE JASMIN
mandarin orange and pink grapefruit make the MOGHOL EDP
most noteworthy appearances, followed closely by A white floral scent by perfumer
tonka and jasmine. Keep this one in your arsenal Alberto Morillas, the Jasmin
for your off-duty look in the new year – Moghol is an icon-in-the-making
it launches here in early 2021. Price on Request for this fragrance family. The
Indian jasmine, Damascena rose
and creamy sandalwood swirl
together in a sweetness that’s
potent at first hit, but settles
beautifully. A rare combination of
delicate and masculine. ₹22,000
THE FRAGRANCE
SPECIAL
FLORAL
NASOMATTO NUDIFLORUM
Italian for crazy nose, the Dutch fragrance
house Nasomatto is known for its
carefully crafted and extremely limited
range of potent scents. This unisex
Extrait de Parfum is no exception; a
masterclass in using floral and fougère
tones of rose, yellow jasmine, leather
and oakmoss, it is intense with powerful
sillage. ₹11,400
PACO RABANNE
1 MILLION PARFUM
Hot off the press, this brand new launch
from the Spanish brand is a luxurious
floral at its best. While many floral
fragrances can get lost quickly, the
staying power of 1 Million’s salty Monoi
tuberose and leather accords is rare on
this side of the perfume universe. It’s
exactly the right kind of entrancing for a
date night. ₹6,250
BVLGARI GLACIAL ESSENCE
Quite unlike anything else on the
DIOR HOMME market, the blast of ice that opens this
An update on the delicious woody alpine fragrance sets it apart from the
edit from 2005 (and then 2011), average fougère by a mile. Sparkling top
the 2020 rendition of the classic notes of juniper and ginger with a velvety
Homme is effortlessly masculine. heart finish in a deep, cedarwood and
Created by Dior’s in-house musk base, giving it both crispness and
perfumer François Demachy, the character. Ineffable proof that woody
warm, Atlas cedar and vetiver needn’t be synonymous with warm.
accords play beautifully off Price on Request
the musky sweetness of the
patchouli it’s paired with. Perfect
for the crispness of fall. ₹9,200
BENTLEY FOR MEN

BLACK EDITION
WOO DY An oriental fragrance with enough

softwood to give it character. The
big sell of this borderline boisé
perfume is that it brings together
varied fruits and spices – think
ISSEY MIYAKE L’EAU
D’ISSEY POUR HOMME pink pepper, tangerine and
WOOD & WOOD nutmeg – into the warm embrace
The deep, ligneous notes of this of cedar and tobacco. A heady
perfume radiate from its heart all the mix of earthy and sweet, with top
way to its base, with a smattering of notes of spice that linger long
grapefruit and cardamom lending it after. ₹6,600
just a touch of fresh spice. It’s the
combination of sandalwood, Virginia
cedar and vetiver that’s put this heady
fragrance in our good books. ₹6,200
WORDS: SAUMYAA VOHRA. COORDINATION: MEGHA MEHTA. IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK (JASMINE, CEDAR PINE LEAF)
LALIQUE L'INSOUMIS
Rich, aromatic and full-bodied, this cologne
isn’t for the faint-hearted. A fougère
fragrance, this blend starts with bergamot,
basil and rum, leading to a lavender and
clary sage heart with moss and Haitian
vetiver closing it out. If you’re looking for a
scent that makes a statement at a meeting,
this would be it. ₹7,800
BLAZER BY
LANVIN. NECK
CHAIN, RING;
BOTH BY
AMAN ITOMI
THE BIG BEAT
JUST
MALUMA
MALUMA With a superhit album in 2020, Papi Juancho, the Latin pop star from Medellín caps a decade of
massive highs, collaborations and making music that moves the world. But Maluma, also known
for his eclectic taste in fashion, is just getting started on the next phase of this ascent, a journey
of exploring languages and cultures – beginning with a plan to conquer Asia in 2021
PHOTOGRAPHED BY JACQUES BURGA STYLED BY UGO MOZIE WRITTEN BY DAPHNE RUIVO
ʻʻ
H ola! How are you? I speak
Portuguese too. Just kidding! Let’s
do it in English.” Maluma gets my
attention in the first few seconds of
the conversation. During the course of which, he reveals
himself to be a Colombian, Latin and global singer; a
26-year-old musician who wanted to play football and
That influence would return in 2019, on the 11:11
album, in which he quotes Héctor Lavoe, Puerto Rican
icon of the genre. “I want people to know me as a Latin
artist, but one that is not restricted to a musical genre.
To recognise me only by Maluma,” explains the artist,
who is not called Maluma after all: In real life, he
goes by Juan Luis Londoño Arias. The stage name is a
ended up recording with Madonna, Anitta and Ricky combination of his mother, Marlli, his father, Luis, and
Martin; the “farm boy” from Medellín who reached the his sister, Manuela’s names. This global/local game is a
catwalk of Dolce & Gabbana in Milan; the sexiest man constant for the boy who gave up being a football player
on the planet who says he is shy and who now, from the and found music almost by chance.
top of the world, invests his fortune in the education for It is his comfort with dialects, borders and universes
vulnerable young people. that has taken him beyond music itself. During
“I sing in Spanish and people know my music, quarantine, he recorded scenes via Zoom for the film
whether in Romania or Israel. I have always dreamed of Marry Me, with Jennifer Lopez, scheduled for 2021.
this: connecting cultures and taking mine [Colombian] In August, he performed at a crowd-less, drive-in show
around the world.” Latin and proud, he believes that on MTV’s Video Music Awards (VMA). He took the
Spanish pop, a ubiquitous presence in his work, is award home. Wearing a fluorescent green look, created
now bigger than what English pop was ten years ago. in collaboration with Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing,
His is the voice that takes this music from the South Maluma sang his hit song “Hawái”, from the new
American continent to Saudi Arabia or Japan. album, live for the first time, which had more than
In the decade he’s been around, he has passed a 360 million views on YouTube at the time this story
billion views with his 2017 track “Felices los 4”. Around went to print.
the release of his fifth album, Papi Juancho, he had “When I started the project, I felt it was going to be
53.3 million followers on Instagram, 35 million monthly something big. I was sure I was doing the right thing,
streams on Spotify and 25 million on YouTube (which from the bottom of my heart. From that moment on,
also hosts a documentary about his childhood and I was already winning.” Maluma’s album also passes
separation from his parents). Maluma’s reggaeton through Brazil, where he must return in 2021 – if the
incorporates many languages, with roots in salsa. He pandemic allows, of course. His relationship with the
credits his grandfather, owner of an extensive collection country has several chapters, including a “partnership”
of vinyls, as the one who introduced him to music. with Anitta. For him, Anitta is a “great friend”, and he
THE BIG BEAT
leaves the door open for new collabs. The converse is You also sang your new hit “Hawái” at the VMAs
true: “After a long time, life brought us closer during 2020 in a drive-in format. How was the experience?
The Voice México. I am very proud to see it shining To be honest, I’m used to singing to audiences, with
around the world,” comments the Brazilian singer. everyone singing and shouting together. I miss that
In 2020, Maluma completes a decade of profits from energy. But it was an incredible experience! I got an
his career with an appetite for much more. This includes “astronaut” [the award] for the first time! It was a very
El Arte de los Sueños, a foundation which provides beautiful night.
shelter and education for children and young people in
vulnerable situations. “What I’m doing now is trying to And who is Maluma behind the awards and huge
rescue these kids from the neighbourhood, to give them hits? What’s your daily routine?
hope and opportunity.” Because he understands the I try to train every day, meditate, do yoga. I’m very
importance of opportunity – and he does not forget the focused on my health, trying to eat well, drink water and
memory of when he got to record at his uncle’s studio, sleep a lot. But I’m not obsessed. I also like to dine at a
by chance. restaurant, have a glass of wine, go out with my friends.
From the highest point of his career, Maluma looks I love spending time at my ranch in Medellín. I have
back at the beginning in Medellín, in another of his horses, seven dogs, cows, sheep... I really enjoy spending
travels in time (and in space, in languages), something time with my grandparents.
he does so well: The Maluma effect.
A “farm boy”! Do you own the hat, boots?
Do you remember the first time you sang? Yes! When I go to the ranch, I put on my hat, boots and
This is very special. I started ten years ago, in April jeans. To be honest, I don’t even like to take a shower when
2010, back in Medellín. I went to a studio at the I’m there! I jump in the lake, swim and it’s great.
insistence of a friend from high school. He said, “Man,
we need to make a sound together!” I struggled, because Do you find time for other hobbies?
I was playing football and because I had no money. I love snowboarding and wakeboarding, but I think
So, I asked my uncle to give me a recording session as learning is my biggest hobby. When I tried to enter the
a birthday present, and he agreed! I started making Brazilian market, I hired a Portugese teacher for a month.
music and it was love at first sight. That’s how I know the little Portuguese that I do know.
Do you still play football? How does this curiosity extend to fashion?
Yes, of course! I love it! I had knee surgery and had to I’m a little bit addicted to fashion, I admit. When I want
stop for a year, but now I have recovered 100 per cent. something, I do everything to get it. I was in Paris for
I even asked the architect who designed my house in Fashion Week once and was hunting for a Louis Vuitton
Medellín to put in a soccer field. bag. My manager and I called all the stores trying to find
it, and nothing. After eating pasta for lunch, I decided to
Talking about music, how do you describe stop by another LV store. What are the chances, right?
your style? And the bag I wanted was there!
Authentic. I’ve always dreamed of making music that
connected with everyone. When I left Colombia for the You also like vintage fashion. I saw a photo of you
first time and went to Peru, Ecuador and Venezuela, I wearing a Chanel pearl necklace...
felt that my music was breaking down barriers. Soon Yes, I love pearls! And diamonds, stones, boots... Society
after, I started playing in the United States, Brazil and says that men “can’t” own many things. I don’t care.
Mexico. Now, we are preparing a tour of Asia! People think I’m crazy in the way I dress, but I just think
fashion is another way of expressing how I feel.
Why did you decide to keep singing in your
mother tongue? In 2018, you were nominated the most sexy man in
Because I am proud to be Latin. I want people to fall in the world. What do you think of that?
love with my essence. I love to sing salsa, reggaeton and Do you think I’m sexy? [laughs] I don’t think I am. I feel
romantic songs. I want you to know me as a Latin artist, that I am full of light and that it is transmitted to people.
but without a restricted musical genre. Just Maluma. I love my soul and what I am. Sometimes they think that
is sexy. I’m actually very shy. [nervously laughs]
And I think it has already happened because Papi
Juancho has been doing really well worldwide. You have been nominated for a Grammy in the best
When I started putting together the project, I felt it Latin Pop Album category. What else do you hope
would be something big. I was sure I was doing the right to achieve in the next few years?
thing, which came from the bottom of my heart. The A lot! I want to continue acting. I want to win an
idea of the album was to connect with Maluma from ten American Grammy, go back to Brazil, do a new tour.
years ago, the boy full of dreams. So, I say Papi Juancho Conquering Asia is my next big step. And be happy!
is the new Maluma. There’s the “pretty boy, dirty boy”, That’s the first thing on my list. Waking up every day
and there’s the Papi Juancho. and enjoying my life.
JACKET BY JAMES
VINCENT MILANO
PHOTO ASSISTANT:
NOAH RAYMOND
HAIR: LUIS RIVERA
MAKE-UP: TALY
WAISBERG
PRODUCTION:
ROGER BENITES/
JCQ STUDIO
CREATIVE DIRECTOR:
GIO PELLICER &
JACQUES BURGA
"I AM PROUD TO BE
LATIN. I WANT PEOPLE
TO FALL IN LOVE
WITH MY ESSENCE.
I LOVE TO SING SALSA,
REGGAETON AND
ROMANTIC SONGS. I
WANT YOU TO KNOW
ME AS A LATIN ARTIST,
BUT NOT RESTRICTED
TO A MUSICAL GENRE"
GQ’s
No matter how well you know someone,
gifting will always be a stressful task.
Here to make your gift-hunting spree
less of a chore – whether it’s for a
technophile, a hypebeast, or a
grooming buff – is our edit of the top
45 suggestions that has something
for everyone. It’s best to get a headstart
BIG
G
and find the perfect little something
for your loved ones
IN
E D I T E D B Y JA NI C E F E R N A ND E S & SE L M A N FA Z IL
IFT
G GUIDE
LOGOMANIA GL AM UP
GQ TIP
BURBERRY CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN These will work well
POCKET BAG PATENT LEATHER SHOES
with an embellished
Designed by Riccardo It might not be for your hypebeast bud, but this glossy pair midnight blue kurta and
Tisci, this unisex pocket of patent leather oxfords are definitely for the champagne- bundi for a glam look
bag hits all the right popping guy who loves to shine bright at parties. Louboutins,
during the festivities
style points. Referencing featuring the iconic red soul, have been a hit on both
the brand’s equestrian Bollywood and international red carpets for years. So
heritage and crafted don’t worry about this gift not being the one that
in Italy in canvas and lasts on the style charts. It’s here to stay, and is
topstitched leather, it is undoubtedly a hard-to-disappoint festive
an archival inspiration. season gift.
Complete with a `61,000
detachable, adjustable
strap and top handles,
the bag is available
in different sizes and
colours. We can already ESSENTIAL ACCESSORY STATEMENT MAKER
see this one becoming the
LUXORO FORMELLO KENZO
new “It bag” on Instagram
BELT BLACK EMBROIDERED
this season and a
A belt might not seem like the most thoughtful of gifts, but WALLET
guaranteed winner on our
gifting guide. get it right and it’ll be remembered for a long time. It is, after For the young and stylish,
all, a wardrobe staple for most men. A brilliant example of this embroidered black
Price on Request
craftsmanship, this brown hand-finished calfskin leather with leather wallet makes quite
a navy blue inside adds an element of style and colour. The the impression for a small
gentle-curved buckle attached to the antique detailed leather leather good. With a tiger
only adds to its charm. Not to mention, it’s a great value for logo serving as the main
money, and an impossible-to-ignore gifting option. element, this high quality
`2,500 wallet has multiple slots,
is long lasting, functional
and holds great style – all
at the same time. It is
definitely something your
brother would appreciate.
STYLE
`28,000
EFFORTLESS ST YLE
OUTHOUSE
CIRCLE OF LIFE
CUFFLINKS
How many cufflinks are too
BA SIC NECESSIT Y many? There’s no definite
answer. Especially when
CANALI one sees this set of modern
SILK TIE yet minimal cufflinks.
WORDS: RAHUL VIJAY, SELMAN FAZIL. IMAGE: SHUTTERSTOCK (ALL BACKGROUNDS)
For tie aficionados, this Crafted with 22-karat

part-peppy, part-serious, gunmetal plating, these
handcrafted silk jacquard bear a concentric circular
tie from Canali is worth the motif and hand-enameled
investment. Embellished evil eye to symbolise infinity.
with medallion motifs, it A very subtle accessory that
will give any basic suit a could elevate any man’s
modern spin. Which is why style quotient.
it makes it to our list of `7,500
coolest accessories to gift
this season – especially
when tailoring is making
a strong comeback on
the runways. Truly, it’s the
smallest details that leave
a lasting impression.
Price on Request
89
POCKET FRIENDLY
BOSS
SIGNATURE
COLLECTION WALLET
If you’re not a fan of
elaborate and, at most
times, impractical gifts,
then we suggest opting
for a BOSS wallet in
rich, textured palmellato
leather. Crafted to KEEP-ALL
a practical size with
thoughtful internal DIOR
organisation, this Italian- ELITE BAG
made item is basic, The bag of the season is
but speaks true luxury here: A multifunctional,
and makes for a great versatile accessory
present to someone who that can be used both
understands timeless as a crossbody bag or
fashion. A tip: Don’t go for separately as pouches.
the most obvious, pick a It’s a new, light and airy
colour that stands out, like take on its iconic saddle
the one here. bag and its iconic curves.
`11,590 Available both in leather
and Dior Oblique canvas,
this refined bag will add a
sophisticated touch to any
look, making the accessory
an absolute object of
desire for this season. A
perfect gift option for the
GQ TIP sartorially inclined.
For anyone who can Price on Request
rock these with a
slouchy 1990s style
hot pink suit and
grab all the eyeballs
STREET VIBE ARM CANDY
ADIDAS ORIGINALS CARATLANE

ZX 2K BOOST VIRTUE PLATINUM LINK BRACELET
The new adidas Originals ZX 2K BOOST with its highly Thanks to pop culture icons like Harry Styles, jewellery has
innovative design and unexpected colour combinations – now become an integral part of a man’s wardrobe. Keep it
vibrant pink and blue – tops our list of the season’s must- shiny this festive season with this easy-on-the eye, lightweight
haves. Almost 20 years after the first adidas ZX shoes made platinum chainmail bracelet from Caratlane. At a time when
its debut, this one is here to take that retro look into the it’s all about understated luxury, this pièce de résistance is
future. With its springy mid-sole and translucent accents, an ideal companion even with everyday essentials. It will
there’s nothing more exciting than receiving a pair of shoes definitely enhance the person’s style and add that much-
that’s comfortable and highly Instagrammable. needed spunk.
`13,999 `42,340
90
GOING RETRO DRESS UP
MEN OF SHANTANU & NIKHIL

PLATINUM BY INDEPENDENCE GUNNER BROOCH
PGI INDIA Anyone who loves to rock an ethnic look knows that it’s all
PLATINUM NECKLACE in the details, and would appreciate this unique brooch in
quintessential Shantanu & Nikhil fashion. It might be small in
If you, like us, are also
size, but the intricate details of the studded leatherette panel
obsessed with Connell’s
with the tape tab and metallic chains is what counts the most.
neck chain, we have
This accessory, unlike the traditionally ethnic ones, can be
just the right accessory
worn not just with bandhgalas, bundis or achkans but with
for you here. This slim
western tailoring too.
piece might be a slight
`2,500
departure from Connell’s
GQ’s
WINTER MUST-HAVE
version, but we bet it will
BIG
take your OTT festive fits to
UNIQLO another level. The perfect
BURGUNDY FELT length (neither too short GQ TIP
JACKET nor too long) and minimal The best bet when it
GIFTING
An item of clothing design along with the comes to picking
might be a traditional comeback of the retro dog accessories for someone
choice when it comes
to gifting. But, what if
tag means it has all the
right ingredients.
who enjoys minimal
dressing with a small GUIDE
it’s an extremely stylish Price on Request element of surprise
wool blend fleece jacket
with minimal yet modern
details at an affordable
price? Can’t say no to that.
And, the wine red colour
is what will draw your
attention – a very high-end
look that we believe to be
functional and practical,
all while staying stylish.
`8,000
ORIGINAL FL AIR
TOD’S
TIMELESS MESSENGER BAG
Want to show someone that you really know them? This
classic messenger bag in elegant tan leather will say
WORDS: RAHUL VIJAY, SELMAN FAZIL
it all. The timeless silhouette features a wide internal

compartment (that could fit more than just a laptop), an
adjustable and removable strap, internal zip pocket as well as
a pocket at the back. While the metallic accessories make the
bag even more interesting, this would be suitable for any man
who travels for work, or even a college-goer.
Price on Request
91
GQ’s
ABOUT TOWN
FOSSIL
BIG TOWNSMAN 48MM

AUTOMATIC BLACK
STAINLESS STEEL
straps enhancing its retro
appeal. Even the hands
and the indices are vintage
GIFTING
WATCH Favre-Leuba, with its
Bold, openwork automatics trademark bi-compax dial
GUIDE for the large-wristed making this another future

do not get any more classic. When you’re
accessible. This one is looking to gift a watch,
subtler than Fossil’s usual you could do a lot worse
crop of watches, even at than pick one of the oldest
48mm. Its muted shades brands in existence.
of blue or brown, host of `1,32,550
interchangeable leather
straps and stainless steel SAFE BET
body make it an everyday DANIEL

hero. If you’re looking to gift
an item that can be spotted
WELLINGTON
ICONIC LINK LUMINE
from miles, look no further.
ROSE GOLD
`19,995
Daniel Wellington spiffs
GOLD STANDARD up its otherwise vanilla
Iconic Link collection with
OMEGA this latest addition, which
SEAMASTER DIVER has 12 Swarovski crystals
300M CHRONOGRAPH strewn across an eggshell-
GOLD TITANIUM white dial. The steel
TANTALUM bracelet gets a two-tone
One of the most lavish silver and rose gold finish,
Seamasters yet, this is giving the quartz-powered
WATCH a divine mix of a sedna
gold bezel, ceramic dial
timepiece a certain sense
of grandeur that steel
and bracelet links made watches strive hard to
of tantalum – a blue-grey possess. DW watches are
metal that’s rarer than gold the sort of gifts that don’t
and tougher than steel. shout at you – timeless in
With a METAS-certified design, recognisable
movement, it makes for and accessible.
an exquisite dress watch, `17,999
while also doubling up
as a terrific tool watch. POWER DRESSING
One of those “once-in-a- TISSOT
lifetime” gifts, reserved for GENTLEMAN
the truly special, because, POWERMATIC 80
sometimes, it’s a little SILICIUM
more than the thought
that counts. With an 80-hour power
reserve, this timepiece is
`9,60,000
about as straight-forward
FLYING HIGH and practical as dress
watches get. Its silicon
FAVRE-LEUBA components make it
SKY CHIEF resistant to magnetic
CHRONOGRAPH fields, more accurate and
This facelifted chrono gets add a certain legitimacy
a new range of coloured to its functionality. Not to
GQ TIP
dials – olive green, dark overlook the fact that the
Apart from the style, size
brown and pearly white. steel-bodied piece is one
and your budget of the Despite that, it remains of Tissot’s more popular
watch, also consider the true to form, as an watches. Good thing the
type of strap – stainless understated and rugged steel watch aesthetic
steel, gold plated or leather chronograph, accompanied never goes out of vogue.
are the most popular by matching suede leather `58,500
SURROUND SOUND
MI
SMART SPEAKER
It may have become ubiquitous for the thrills
that obedient AI can bring, but the newest smart
speakers are all about beefed-up audio. This 12W
speaker is powered by Google Assistant, and inside
its metal mesh body exists a 63.5mm sound driver
and the most cutting-edge technology to provide
crisp, clear, loud sound that travels. With that price
tag, you might as well dish them out in pairs and
gift your crew an elevated home theatre experience.
`3,999
BEA ST MODE
ONEPLUS
8T 5G
OnePlus’ newest flagship
is a bawse on all fronts:
performance, design,
battery and charging
speed. It has arguably
the best quad-camera
system on an Android
device today, with a slick
ultra-wide lens, hugely
improved stabilisation
and exceptional low-light
photography, along with
cool features like a video- BORN TO RUN
portrait mode. Best of all,
it’s 5G-enabled and has
BOSE
FRAMES TEMPO
a beautiful 120Hz Fluid
Display; ie, it’s future- Last year, Bose Frames were a novelty; now they’re
ready. The smallest things going mainstream. Tempo, part of the second-gen
matter here, most of all line-up of audio glasses from the American brand,
to your resident teenager marries aerodynamic design with high fidelity. It’s
– who will no doubt equipped with a 22mm driver in each arm, polarised
appreciate a subscription lenses and engineering that won’t let it budge off your
to GTA San Andreas to go face. No, sound does not leak beyond the wearer’s
with it. person; and it allows for phone calls and connecting
Available in Aquamarine Green
with Siri/Google Assistant. The perfect device to induce
and Lunar Silver at `45,999 (12+ your workaholic friends to get out for that morning run.
256 GB) and `42,999 (8 + 128 GB) `21,900
WORDS: PARTH CHARAN (WATCH), NIDHI GUPTA (TECH)
OK COMPUTER
IPAD PRO
The compulsive doodlers and aspiring film-makers in your network are going
to love the 8th-gen iPad Pro. It runs on the powerful A12Z Bionic chip, sports a
new ultra-wide camera on the back, offers substantial battery life, boasts Apple’s
new LiDAR Scanner for Augmented Reality purposes, and continues a legacy of
scintillating display and audio quality. Creators gotta create: Go on, spring for the
Apple Pencil and the Magic Keyboard (backlit keys!) to really spoil them silly.
11-inch iPad Pro starts at `71,900 for the Wi-Fi model and `85,900 for the Wi-Fi + Cellular model
12.9-inch iPad Pro starts at `89,900 for the Wi-Fi model and `1,03,900 for the Wi-Fi + Cellular model.
93
TECH
PALM PILOT
GOOGLE
PIXEL 4A
Compact, premium and powerful
– Google’s latest smartphone is a
utilitarian device, with none of those
eye-catching specs, but plenty to
recommend it. Don’t let that single FUTURE FR AME
lens on the back fool you, this is
among the best cameras on an SAMSUNG
Android phone in the world; nestled THE SERIF
in a device equipped with a big battery Samsung’s The Serif is a smart TV that’s a
and fast charging, great core power statement piece in itself. Built in collaboration
and a solid OLED display. All this in with the acclaimed Parisian designer duo
a body that’s easy to handle with one Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec, it lives inside
hand, making it a great gift for those a gorgeous white frame and stands on two
who like their tech free of fuss. metal legs (which you can ditch and place the
`31,999 TV on a flat surface). It’s equipped with HDR
10+ playback and 4K, which means watching
those new episodes of The Crown would be
GQ’s
a more enjoyable experience. For that friend
WORDS: NIDHI GUPTA (GOOGLE, SAMSUNG), SAUMYAA VOHRA (ALCOHOL), JANICE FERNANDES (FUJIFILM, DAYDREAM)
BIG
who staunchly believes that walls are for art.
43-inch for `83,900, 49-inch for `1,16,900 and 55-inch
for `1,48,900
FTING
GIG
UIDE
FR AMED FOREVER
FUJIFILM
INSTAX WIDE 300 INSTANT CAMERA
Living the way we have been in 2020, memories
are all we have to sustain us. And the “Wide”
instant camera with its larger format works
best to capture those memories. There’s also
a close-up lens, tripod slot, a focal zoom dial,
built-in flash – all the essentials – making the
photography experience simple. It doesn’t take
a professional to operate this charming piece of
equipment; could be a great gift for a kid too.
`8,700
LIFESTYLE
PURE IMAGINATION
DAYDREAM
PARIS TRAVEL DIARY ART
Gifting a piece of art – painting
or print – must be done only
after careful consideration.
That of the recipient’s taste,
style and leanings. You don’t
want to pick something that
might not connect, or, worse
still, offend a person. Also, it
should go with the look of the
space for which it’s intended.
For a contemporary space,
pick an art print that’s not
too big and blends in while
still standing out. The folks at
dayDREAM have a variety that
you could choose from.
`500 onwards
DRINK DU JOUR A SPIRITED MOMENT LIMITED ED
SUNTORY WHISKY RÉMY MARTIN CHIVAS REGAL 12YO

TOKI XO EXCELLENCE SHIVAN & NARRESH
Fresh off the press, the House There are many edits from While Chivas’ award-winning
of Suntory’s new blend is this French cognac house that 12YO has been a time-
a great gift for the whisky we’re partial to, but the XO is honoured GQ favourite,
cognoscente who likes to stay a verified classic for anyone this particular edit makes
current. The layered edition who likes a smooth, powerful for a fantastic gift because
is an intermingling of three eau de vie. An especially of its vibrant box. Created
Japanese whiskies, each aromatic rendition, look to by designers Shivan and
powerful in its own right. this cognac for its burst of Narresh, this whimsical box
It brings in the Mizunara flavours and heady floral takes from the whisky’s floral,
fruitiness of the Yamazaki fragrance. Notes of autumn fruity notes that wind into
single malt, the zesty vanilla fruit – think plum, fig and a light, spicy finish, and brings
of the single grain Chita and candied orange – give way to the nature-inspired elements
is beautifully offset by the cinnamon and freshly ground of the blend to life. The big
peppermint pine notes and hazelnuts, ending with the sell of the packaging is that
smoky finish of the Hakushu poignant potency of roasted it is presentation-ready with
single malt. A fresh, silky cocoa and ginger. That the zero extra effort. If ever
whisky, there’s no savant bottle never fails to command there was a time to judge a
who won’t be pleased about attention on a shelf has book (or bottle) by its cover,
unwrapping this new edit. always been part of the draw. it’s now.
`3,960 `32,000 `2,910
LIFESTYLE
LUXURY SEEKERS
ADDRESS HOME
AGATE COCKTAIL SHAKER
Know someone who needs a classic
martini on the double? A barware set,
complete with a cocktail shaker is how
you can help them get one without
the risk involved in stepping out. This
gold-plated collection, gleaming
with Agate stones, has a wine chiller,
bowl caddy, ice bucket, water jug,
bottle stopper and, of course, the
aforementioned cocktail shaker. It
won’t just look good at the bar, but is
also everything that’s needed to get
the party started.
COFFEE TABLE TOME `1,800
ACCIDENTALLY WES ANDERSON

In 2017, a couple set up an Instagram account dedicated to Wes Anderson,
documenting pictures of real-life, undiscovered and unexpected locations that
capture pastel-hued building facades, symmetrical frames and just a touch
of vintage and quirky – all very Anderson-esque. Following immense online
popularity, the Instagram page has now manifested into a book, Accidentally
Wes Anderson: With worldwide contributions and notes to go along with each
picture, it has been authorised by the man himself, who has also penned the
foreword. 2020 has been tiring, and daydreaming with this book might just help.
`2,299 FUN TIMES
SHAZÉ
TURNTABLE SHOT TRAY
LOVE ENGR AVED
This one’s for the party shot-pusher.
WILLIAM PENN Eight shot-glasses on a turntable and
PERSONALISED GIFT SET you have an evening to remember.
Desk accessories, writing essentials or small leather Even if you’re not getting this for
goods: Make everyday items extra special and personal. yourself, you’re sure to reap the
And with several global luxury brands to pick from, there’s benefits of it at future parties. To
no compromise on quality either. So, maybe, personalise a elevate an already cool gift, you
notebook organiser that comes with wireless charging for could always go armed with a host of
their iPhone, and a monogrammed Montblanc pen to go various party games, just add shots to
with it? Or, perhaps, a classy lighter? The options are endless. every task.
`450 onwards `12,000
69 —
96 0202 REBME
NOVEMBER VON
2020
GQ’s
BIG
GIFTING
GUIDE
THE VIRTUAL HOLIDAY
AIRBNB
WORDS: RAHUL VIJAY (HERMÈS), SAUMYAA VOHRAA (AIRBNB), ANAMICA NAIR (ACCIDENTALLY WES ANDERSON, WILLIAM PENN), JANICE FERNANDES (ADDRESS HOME, SHAZÉ, INDIA CIRCUS, THE DECOR CIRCLE). IMAGE: STUDIO DES FLEURS (HERMÈS)
ONLINE EXPERIENCES
FEA ST ALERT
If all you can chance right now is an
Instagram Reels vacation, this gift will THE DECOR CIRCLE
do you one better. The digital version CHEESE KNIVES SET
of Airbnb’s signature Experiences The perfect host will always
lets you gift something no person have a cheese platter and the
can forget about on a dusty shelf. You proper knives to go with it. For
can buy tickets to anything: From The the uninitiated, that includes the
Secret Jazz Club in Amsterdam to a spade knife, fork-tipped knife and
Harry Potter Tour in Edinburgh, or, if spreader knife. Don’t stress on
you’re feeling less passive, training the types of knives; pick the entire
with Samurais in Tokyo. It might not set in a style that best suits the
have the same cache as an all- occasion (Forest Stem, Autumn
expenses paid trip to Buenos Aires, Leaf, Tropical Sea), and throw
but it’s the ideal, risk-free thought for a in a cheese board too, for good
travel lover who misses the adventure. measure.
Prices Vary Across Experiences `1,899
OF GREAT COMPOSITION
INDIA CIRCUS BY KRSNAA MEHTA

LEATHER WATCH AND EYEWEAR ORGANIZER BOX
A watch enthusiast’s hack to keep their beloved wears safe and always
looking new is an organiser. Now, just because it’s something that’s kept
hidden away doesn’t mean it has to be boring. Pick one in a subtle colour
or print, it’s the safest choice. To take it a step further, choose an organiser
that has space for six watches and four eyewear pieces: it’s sure to make a
collector’s life easier.
`7,349
TRUE LEGACY
HERMÈS
ATRIUM GARDE-ROBE POP TRAY
Nothing says luxury more than an
artisanal design and you can always
trust Hermès to deliver just that. A
true blend of modern and heritage
influence, this hand-painted lacquered
wood tray features the “Garde-
Robe Pop” design by Gianpaolo
Pagni – inspired by an equestrian
engraving from a 19th-century
peddler catalogue. For the one with
impeccable taste, this shiny leather
piece will add a colourful touch to
their collection.
Price on Request
GROOMING
EARTHY COOL
BVLGARI
MAN WOOD ESSENCE GIFT SET
Here’s an apt winter-time gift: A scent
that’s high on woody notes and lingers
even after the sun has set. This pack
comprises a fragrance bottle and an
aftershave balm – both carrying the
same cosy feel. The cedar, cypress and
vetiver top notes locked with citrus
and coriander essence in this beautiful
olive-coloured perfume will quickly
become anyone’s signature scent. And,
the aftershave balm not only soothes
irritated skin, but also leaves it fresh
and fragrant. For the city guy who likes
to be reminded of the outdoors while
he’s stuck to the computer.
`6,500
THE CULT CL A SSIC
ESTEE LAUDER
ADVANCED NIGHT REPAIR
HIT REFRESH
SYNCHRONISED MULTI-RECOVERY
COMPLEX THE BODY SHOP
At a time when men’s beauty and BLACK MUSK COMBO
grooming rituals are so topical Fragrance doesn’t have to be gendered, and
worldwide, this serum is the right the black musk range by this cruelty-free
example to prove that skincare is brand is proof of that. This one is our favourite
for everyone. A cult product with an for its sensual blend of bergamot, pink
updated breakthrough formula, it pepper, bambinella pear, black vanilla and, of
supports the skin’s natural nightly course, black musk. The shower gel and body
repair process more effectively. This mist combo is ideal to build the mysterious
fast absorbing serum works to reduce fragrance that will leave one feeling fresh all
the look of multiple signs of aging and day. The mist is handy to carry in the bag, in
helps protect skin from environmental case the scent needs topping up. You can’t go
assaults. What more could you ask for wrong with this.
in a skin care product? `2,515
`5,900 for 30ml
MANE AFFAIR
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
WORDS: ANAMICA NAIR, SELMAN FAZIL
BONACURE HYALURONIC
MOISTURE COMBO
GQ TIP
No one’s alone in the battle against dry hair.
For the one looking
And this moisture treatment with its light
for younger,
emulsion base formula would be godsend to
healthier-looking anyone cribbing about brittle strands. Get them
skin, now and in a kit: the micellar shampoo for a squeaky clean
the future scalp; a spray conditioner to easily detangle
98
GQ’s
BIG
GIFTING
GUIDE
hair and get that additional moisture care
in; a mask that deeply hydrates and restores
suppleness and strength. What’s more? These
products are cruelty-free, which makes all the
goodness in them a whole lot better. CLOSING HOUR
`2,850
FOREST ESSENTIALS
VAISHNAVI DE-STRESS THERAPY
DISTINCTIVE ELEMENTS
A thoughtful gift to someone who’s
JO MALONE LONDON been overworked this year, the
CYPRESS GRAPEVINE COLOGNE INTENSE de-stress therapy set is infused
Perfumes are almost synonymous to the with essential oils like Kerala
concept of gifting, no doubt there. But the lime, peppermint, geranium and
challenge is to choose the right fragrance for sandalwood (known for its cooling
the right person. For the one with a great mix and soothing properties) to relieve
of cool and spicy, we recommend this bold stress and reduce fatigue. The
extravaganza. With the fresh, aromatic scent beautiful-looking gift box comes with
of the cypress trees, powered by the woody two products: A Stress Relief spray to
essence of the grapevine and the earthy relax the mind and body and improve
warmth of Moss, this bottle of cologne will last concentration; and a Tranquil Sleep
long after your afterparty is over. spray to dispel anxiety and induce a
`11,800 for 200ml deep, restful sleep. Works wonders.
`1,750
MA XIMUM IMPACT
GILLETTE
FUSION PROGLIDE STYLER 3-IN-1
A good shave (read: a no-nicks-no-
razor-burns shave) ensures an ideal
start to the day. This electric trimmer
is a hero for anyone looking to ditch
the extravagant shaving routine.
The comfort guard makes for easy
maneuvering; and the swappable
blades allow a close shave and
create defined lines. Bonus points
for this razor-trimmer-styler being
shower-safe and suitable for body
grooming. There’s nothing we love
more than a multitasking product,
especially on the day one’s done with
#NoShaveNovember.
`1,840
99
CLO
O
U WORDS: PARTH CHARAN. IMAGE: KARIN CREUSET AND DIODE (CODE 11.59 BY AUDEMARS PIGUET SELFWINDING FLYING TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH)
CODEDR
The latest versions of the Audemars
Piguet Code 11.59 is further proof
that the model is a lot more than a
satellite orbiting the Royal Oak. It’s a
star in its own right
GOLD STANDARD
to polished; the lugs don’t make contact with the

octagonal midriff and the sapphire crystal creates
an effect that makes it seem perfectly round. But
its unique curvature adds a certain “hall of mirrors”
mystique to it when viewed from another angle.
In fact, the only design attributes lacklustre by
comparison were the dials on the less complex models
from the collection. And that’s exactly what the new
collection addresses with rich, smoky textures.
THE PARTY PIECE

Audemars Piguet wasn’t going to just embellish the
Code 11.59 with cosmetic flourishes, since packing
impeccably finished, hyper-sophisticated movements
is becoming its stock-in-trade. This year, the brand
has also launched a watch that mixes two rarefied
L
complications – a flying tourbillon and an automatic
ast year, amid much fanfare, intrigue chronograph – and puts them in one case. The new Code
and bewilderment, Audemars Piguet 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph features the same
launched the Code 11.59 series. The 41mm sized white gold case, with brushed surfaces and
idea of a top-shelf Audemars Piguet polished accents. To be clear, this is not the first time
that wasn’t a Royal Oak didn’t sit the brand has paired a tourbillon with a chronograph
well with many die-hard Royal Oak complication. But, it is the first time a tourbillon
enthusiasts; but it was exactly the featuring a flying regulator and a chronograph with
sort of devil-may-care deviation from the norm that a self-winding feature has been placed inside an
made the Royal Oak a horological maverick, back in the Audemars Piguet.
1970s. The writing was on the wall: Audemars Piguet A lacquered blue inner bezel ring with matching
wanted to diversify its collection and the best way to do sub-counters and hands – made of blued and white
so was with a watch that was as elaborately finished gold – pops out, while the rhodium-toned bridges add to
as the brand’s octagonal superstar. It packed some the three-dimensional, openwork symmetry. Together,
firepower as well, with the brand’s first integrated, with the tourbillon placed at 6 o’clock, they make for a
in-house, self-winding chronograph movement visually arresting dial. The whole movement is satin-
being placed within the Code 11.59’s round-yet-not- finished and sandblasted by hand, and much like most
conventionally-round case. Audemars Piguet movements, happens to be a thing of
For 2020, Audemars Piguet has a new Code 11.59 beauty even when placed under an opaque dial. In this
collection, in a bid to show us that the series is a instance, as in most, it happens to be just as ornate and
work in progress, and is, undoubtedly, here to stay. wonderful to behold from the back, as it is upfront. It
The change comes in the form of five new, sunburst ought to be since it contains 40 jewels.
lacquered dials that have been lavished onto the self- The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is a
winding chronograph and the self-winding models – rare timepiece; not because it’s limited to 50 pieces only,
both of which are the mainstays of the collection. Along but because in an age of ultra-thin movements, it is a
with the new dial colours come dazzling two-tone case lavish celebration of traditional watchmaking. The Code
variants made of white gold with the octagonal middle 11.59 range was never meant to be inexpensive, but at
composed of pink gold. The combination is available `19.16 lakh (plus taxes) it’s one of the more expensive
only with the grey and black dials. This marks the first pieces in the collection.
instance where a Code 11.59 has been given the two-
tone gold treatment. It’s a treatment more commonly
associated with the likes of a Royal Oak Offshore, but
on the whole, remains uncommon. Sure, a gold and steel
combination can be found with ease, but few cases, even The curved
for Audemars Piguet, combine a mix of two different sapphire crystal
types of gold. on the Code
The watches are available in burgundy, blue, 11.59 creates
purple, grey and black sunburst dials, with matching an optical
hand-stitched alligator straps. When launched last effect wherein
it appears flat
year, there were plenty of design attributes about
from the top
the Code 11.59 that caught everyone’s attention.
and tiered when
Double-curved sapphire crystal, hand-finished cases
looked at from
and dynamite movements – it had it all. The texture
the side
of the case, for example, transitions from brushed

THE
OF
ABHISHEK BACHCHAN
Since March, when cinemas shuttered and filming came to a halt, viewers’ attention
shifted vigorously to streaming services. As entertainment became a precious commodity
and most actors were relegated to posting fitness videos, only one performer appeared oddly busy.
Arun Janardhan caught up with Abhishek Bachchan, days before the release of
Anurag Basu’s Ludo on Netflix, as he stands on the cusp of rebooting his career
P H O T O G R A P HE D B Y M A N A SI SAWA NT S T Y L E D B Y NIK ITA JA ISINGH A NI
102
TRENCH COAT BY
BURBERRY. SHIRT BY
DSQUARED2 AVAILABLE
AT THE COLLECTIVE.
SUNGLASSES BY THOM
BROWNE. WATCH BY
PATEK PHILIPPE
103
SUIT BY KANIKA
GOYAL. SHIRT
BY POLO RALPH
LAUREN. LOAFERS
BY TRUMPET.
SUNGLASSES BY
PROJEKT PRODUKT
AVAILABLE AT VIJAY
OPTICIANS. TIE BY
HERMÈS. POCKET
SQUARE BY CANALI
104
U
U
U
whatever else that the most annoying phrase “new
normal” entails.
Adding to an eventful 2020, Bachchan also tested
Covid-positive in July, along with his father Amitabh,
wife Aishwarya and daughter Aaradhya. From being
locked down at home like the rest of the country, he
went into quarantine in a hospital, an isolation of a
different kind for an actor who was just beginning to
emerge from a professional sabbatical of two years.
If Bachchan is making up for lost time, he’s doing
it rapidly. After Housefull 3 in June 2016, his next
release was two years later with Manmarziyaan in
September 2018, before his first web series Breathe:
Into the Shadows this July. The break between the
two movies and a deliberate recalibration of his
career has rekindled in him a desire to work against
the grain, shake off some complacency and change
the narrative that his career has so far taken.
“I got lucky. All these projects were completed
as we headed into lockdown. Now that things are
opening up, they’re all coming out,” he explains.
It’s been two decades since his debut with JP
Dutta’s Refugee, during which time Bachchan
has worked with some of the best directors in the
industry, survived a brutally critical ecosystem
and strained to break out of the tall shadow his
famous father casts. He’s done this with a likeable
nonchalance, with the kind of self-deprecating
humour that comes to someone who is self-aware. The
first trailer of Ludo has a sequence with Verma that’s
typical of Bachchan’s sardonic sense of humour, as
he negotiates a ransom demand with help from his
young hostage.
“As an actor, especially, you should not take
“Unlocking” has an added, different connotation for yourself too seriously. Don’t buy into the myth, don’t
Abhishek Bachchan. Version 2.0 of the actor is on buy into the persona and the image. You are a human
a prolific streak, lining up releases at a time when being – learn to look at the lighter and more positive
avenues of entertainment have narrowed down. On side of life,” he says over a video call.
November 12, Bachchan will match his wits against The screen is grainy, giving the impression that
“one of the most talented co-stars”, child actor Inayat he may be sitting in a lowly lit basement, like the
Verma, in Anurag Basu’s next directorial venture captives of Breathe. Dressed in a white round-
Ludo on Netflix. He plays a petty criminal trying necked T-shirt, sporting a moustache grown for his
to reconcile with his daughter after his release role in The Big Bull, acquired by Disney+ Hotstar,
from prison, but it’s his bond with another girl that he has just started working on the promotions of
changes him. The “instinctive director who does his upcoming ventures. He is articulate, thoughtful
not want something that’s studied” made Bachchan about his answers, and is paradoxically youthful and
feel like he was back in acting school; doing trust old-fashioned. He supports Chelsea in the English
exercises, believing in the film-maker’s vision, and Premier League, follows the NBA, co-owns a Pro
going with the flow. Kabaddi League team (Jaipur Pink Panthers) and,
“That’s the scary thing to do – to take that leap of in a rare display of good manners for a movie star,
faith,” says the actor. graciously walked this interviewer to the door when
It’s been an ironically busy time for Bachchan, we met last year at his Juhu office.
with just two weeks of shoot left for his next film, Bachchan’s debut in 2000 came with a big-ticket
Bob Biswas; and about five projects lined up for film-maker of the time, but his subsequent releases
2021. On November 20, the next season of the Indian underwhelmed at the box office. His fresh-faced
Super League will begin in Goa, in which his co- innocence and easy-going demeanour made him
owned football team Chennaiyin FC is one of the suited for ensemble casts and light-hearted romances.
most successful franchises. Bachchan’s presence But in his early years, it seemed like there was a gap
won’t be as visible this year at the ISL though, given between promise and delivery, as if Bachchan was
the pandemic, bio-bubbles, fan-free stadiums and holding back.
105
“I REWATCH MY His breakthrough role came with the fiery Lallan
Singh in Mani Ratnam’s Yuva in 2004 – he went on to
make two more films with the South Indian auteur. A
FILMS NOT OUT significant couple of years followed for Bachchan, who
saw box-office success with Dhoom, lifted a slacking
Phir Milenge with a late appearance, played a crook
OF VANITY,” in the joyous caper Bunty Aur Babli, collaborated
with Ram Gopal Varma on Sarkar and played Rani
BACHCHAN SAYS,
Mukerji’s jilted husband in Kabhi Alvida Naa Kehna.
Bachchan turned producer with Paa (2009), forayed
into some forgettable projects, before he felt like he
LAUGHING, “BUT
needed a break.
“I was dissatisfied with the way I was working,”
he says. “The work was great, the money was even
LIKE HOMEWORK. better. But, maybe I was in a comfortable rut. There

were films in which the onus was on someone else. I
didn’t like that. I pressed the pause button, and re-
I MAKE A LOT OF evaluated, to come back to do the work I wanted to.”

The 44-year-old watches a lot of his own films,
perhaps more so during the lockdown, when he didn’t
NOTES ON HOW
T
want to be one of those learning a new skill. “I see
them not out of vanity,” he says, laughing, “but like
T
homework. I make a lot of notes on how to improve.
TO IMPROVE. I I have stacks of notebooks filled with how I could
have done a scene better.”
HAVE STACKS
OF NOTEBOOKS
T
FILLED WITH
HOW I COULD
HAVE DONE A he wonderful thing
SCENE BETTER.”
about being an actor
who continues to
grow, he adds, is that
every time you view
something you’ve done
in the past, you find
something new you could have changed. He wishes
that in Yuva, for example, there had been more ease
in his dialogue delivery. “Because Lallan was laid-
back but fiery, a juxtaposition of opposites; he has
an easy, languid body language that can snap in a
heartbeat. I wish his language could have reflected
that as well.”
He is happy to have taken the plunge into
streaming services that requires certain things to
be done differently compared to cinema. In Amazon
Prime’s Breathe, he had 12 episodes to get into the
subtext, layers and complexities of the character, a
psychiatrist whose daughter has been kidnapped.
“Your performance can be far more nuanced,” he says.
106
JUMPER BY
DIOR MEN
TRENCH COAT BY
BURBERRY. SHIRT BY
DSQUARED2 AVAILABLE
AT THE COLLECTIVE.
TROUSERS BY BIAGIO
SANTANIELLO AVAILABLE
AT THE COLLECTIVE.
SUNGLASSES BY
THOM BROWNE
HAIR: TEAM
HAKIMʼS AALIM
MAKE-UP:
VINOD UPADHYAY
PRODUCTION:
MEGHA MEHTA
108
“IN CINEMA, YOU HAVE TO BE MORE
EFFICIENT BECAUSE YOU DON’T
HAVE THE LUXURY OF TIME. IN A
WEB SERIES, YOU HAVE TIME BUT
NOT THE LUXURY TO BORE YOUR
AUDIENCE, BECAUSE IT TAKES
ONE BUTTON AND THEY ARE GONE.”
“In cinema, you have to be more efficient because you So we work to the best of our abilities and hope and
don’t have the luxury of time. In a web series, you pray for the best,” he wrote back.
have time but not the luxury to bore your audience, Perception is one thing, optics is another and
because it takes one button and they are gone.” numbers are the complete truth, he adds. “I know
He is not sure if he would do a character as dark when my films were not doing well; I know the films I
as in Breathe for a movie, because he feels that even was replaced from, the films that could not get made,
though the lines between cinema and streaming are that started and didn’t have the budgets because I
blurring, there are still some distinctions. The web was not bankable at that point... Here you have Mr
allows an actor to present audiences with a new facet Amitabh Bachchan’s son. Oh, he is born with a silver
of themselves, says Bachchan. spoon. He has got his break easily because of who he
He compares the advent of streaming services to is and I will agree to that.”
when cinema first came in, allowing actors used to As an impressionable mind earlier in his career,
physical performances on stage, to do something more when he heard this consistently, he started to believe
intimate. “Because suddenly you were right here,” that he was surviving only because of his privilege,
says Bachchan, moving closer to his Zoom screen. especially when he was not doing well. Once he
“On stage, if I have to react to someone who’s suddenly started finding a foothold in the industry, he realised
come over here, I have to do that,” he says, recoiling that it’s not healthy to let that negativity affect him.
in mock shock. “So everybody in the audience can “But people have to understand that it’s a
make out. In cinema, I can just do that,” he adds, business. After the first film, if they don’t see
looking sideways without moving his head, “and anything in you, or that film doesn’t do the numbers,
it’s enough.” you aren’t going to get your next job. That’s the harsh
What he does on the big screen, however, never reality of life.”
seems enough to satisfy his critics and trolls. There He pauses for a moment and with a hint of a grin,
is a convenient narrative that Bachchan is successful says, “Listen man, the fact is, he has never picked up
only because of his father, ignoring his work over 20 the phone on anyone. He’s never made a film for
years with film-makers like Ashutosh Gowariker, me. On the contrary, I have produced a film for him,
Rakeysh Omprakash Mehra, Rohan Sippy and now called Paa.”
Anurag Basu, among others. It comes up often, an He plans to revive his production company,
easy tool for attacks, which he sometimes responds Saraswati Entertainment, after getting his acting
to graciously. In September, when Bachchan shared career back on track, and is confident that he is
his excitement about cinemas opening up, faceless on the right path. The revived Abhishek Bachchan
handles reacted in the kind of cruel way that social doesn’t have any dream role to accomplish. “Shah
media allows them to mow down celebrities. Rukh [Khan] told me before I became an actor:
“But aren’t you still gonna be jobless?” someone Always remember, your favourite role should be the
asked. “That, alas, is in your (the audiences) hand. one you are doing at that point.”
If you don’t like our work, we won’t get our next job. “Because if it’s not, why are you doing it.”
109
t
as
e
ce piec
p
its
ss time
of
ute work
en
pen
de
st o
P STER em
late
es th
et’s
Bregu
T carri
A S
A
M
OLD WORLD
ORDER
B
reguet’s Tradition collection
is replete with some pretty
impressive complications:
a double retrograde
chronograph, a two time zone
and a tourbillon, to name a
few. The latest addition to
the family – the Breguet Tradition Quantième
Rétrograde 7597 – now adds a date complication on it. And, in order for the rather long hand to not
to the mix. But that’s far from the only reason why collide with the other mechanisms, Breguet has
it’s a noteworthy addition to the Breguet family. cleverly given it an upward bend. Like the hour and
The watch’s distinct, openwork architecture takes minute hand on the dial, the date hand too is made
inspiration from Breguet’s famous Subscription of heat-blued steel – which is a protective finish
watch, built by the great Abraham-Louis Breguet given to shield the metal from rust.
himself. The watch came into prominence around Much like any of Breguet’s openwork watches,
the end of the 18th century – right around the the Tradition Rétrograde draws you into its many
time the Breguet name was becoming a byword for layers. Its fluted case, available in white or rose
horological perfection. gold, is sublimely pretty. There’s an element of
The new version gets a retrograde date display amusement there too, particularly if you wait
which is essentially a semi-circular display that till the end of the month to see that unusually
causes the arm to bounce back to its original prominent date hand go all the way back to its
WORDS: PARTH CHARAN
position. At 40mm, it’s just the right size – original position. Openwork watches aren’t exactly
unimposing and yet filled with mechanical wonder. uncommon, but the Tradition Rétrograde, despite
The mechanism driving the retrograde hand is containing a gold rotor and a movement festooned
partially visible, as it sits right between the silvered with 45 jewels, manages to avoid ostentation in a
gold dial and the inner ring with the date numerals way only Breguet can.

13TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL
OCT
2020
200
13 YEARS,
13 VOICES
1 LOVE
CELEBRATING
INDIA WITH
ANEETH AR OR A
GARIMA A ROR A
FREDDY BIR DY
DIVINE
SA MINA HAMIE D
PICO IYE R
HASA N M INHAJ
SU DHA MU R TY
MIRA N AIR
ISH A AM BANI PIR A MA L
BYJU RA VE E NDR AN
TR IS HA SHE TTY
+ MODEL OF THE MOMENT
AMRIT
13TH ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL
OCT
2020
200
13 YEARS,
13 VOICES
1 LOVE
CELEBRATING
INDIA WITH
ANEETH ARORA
GARIMA ARORA
FREDDY BIRDY
DIVINE
SAMINA HAMIED
PICO IYER
HASAN MINHAJ
SUDHA MURTY
MIRA NAIR
ISHA AMBANI PIRAMAL
BYJU RAVEENDRAN
TRISHA SHETTY
AMRIT
13 YEARS,
13 VOICES
1 LOVE
CELEBRATING
INDIA WITH
AMRIT
Anumitra
Ghosh Dastidar
at Edible
Archives, Goa
THE
ARCHIVISTS
OF
ASSAGAO
112
Indigenous varieties
of rice are served at
the restaurant
Meet Chef Anumitra Ghosh Dastidar and Shalini Krishan, the duo behind the country’s most
quietly revolutionary culinary landmark: Goa’s Edible Archives
WRIT TEN BY VIVEK MENEZES
a profusion of buzzwords: “heirloom superfoods”,

“primitive”, “unmodified”, “open-pollinated”. The day’s
special was “hemp & red rice dosa”.
That kind of jargon defines the jumbled-up cultural
and culinary landscape that Dastidar and Krishan
entered with sensational effect with their star turn at
the 2018-2019 Kochi-Muziris Biennale. Edible Archives
stands out for deep research and commitment to
heritage ingredients, as well as its refreshing cuisine-
agnostic approach. A single meal at their hands –
even just one plate of food – could feature tastes and
As far back as anyone can remember, the narrow techniques from diverse sources: Chef Dastidar’s
road from Mapusa – the market town of North Goa – native Bengal, Kerala, Goa, the North-East, the tribal
dropped down towards the Arabian Sea at Anjuna by heartland of Odisha, Thailand, Japan (her first formal
skirting dense woods where it wasn’t easy to detect kitchen training was in Japanese food) and Italy (she
any life. There was always a village there, and thus the was in the core team powering Ritu Dalmia’s Diva
Konkani reassurance “assa gao”. Fast-forward to the restaurant empire).
21st century and no doubts linger because this entire I had been instantly intrigued when one of the
area bubbles with countercultural energy. Crowds of artists in the Kochi-Muziris Biennale told me about a
IMAGE: NITYA BALA (ANUMITRA), EDGAR AFONSO (RESTAURANT), MANOJ PARAMESWARAN (RICE)
people from around the world have made it the hub of project that explored the interstices between food, art
their New Age lives. For millennials, Assagao is their and activism, which focuses on rare rice varieties from
own private Shangri La. around the country. Then came floods of rave reviews, as
An unusually surreal texture characterises this friends who visited the Biennale told me these delicious
rapid transition. Runaway real estate development is bowls of food were their highlight. Some became hooked,
punctuated by permaculture. Several of India’s best visiting every day during their stay. Vegetarians,
restaurants nestle inside century-old Goan houses. carnivores, pescatarians, irredeemable gluttons and
Tattoos and dreadlocks and high-tech digital nomadism the usually abstemious: the unanimity of approval was
coexist casually, often in the same person. Seamlessly disconcerting. It confused me. A lifetime of adventurous
simultaneous, the timeless rhythms of traditional eating had taught me that eclectic fusion inevitably
village life. flops. What was making it work in Kochi?
The irony of these juxtapositions struck me hard “Our kind of food can’t be explained by just recipes,”
at the end of this monsoon, when I drove out from my says Chef Dastidar. “It is based on in-depth knowledge
home in Panjim, the pocket-sized riverside capital of of the grammar of different culinary traditions. It takes
Goa, to interview Shalini Krishan and Chef Anumitra lots of time to study all the nuances and try things out
Ghosh Dastidar at Edible Archives, their hit new in the kitchen. It’s only when you have a really strong
restaurant on the Assagao-Anjuna border. Just before grasp of the universalities that you can make things
its driveway, I found what looked like a neighbourhood, work in combination. We do a lot to figure out the
but turned out to be a tiny restaurant festooned with contrasts, and also the visuality of the elements, so that
113
THE ARCHIVISTS OF ASSAGAO
everything plays out the way we want it to on your plate This pattern of full-bodied participation and
and also your palate.” belonging in the kitchen twinned alongside
Diminutive, bespectacled and solemn, Dastidar gives breathtakingly wide-ranging academic interests,
off distinctly grad student vibes, which makes sense research and theory remains Chef Dastidar’s
because she has a PhD in cognitive linguistics from trademark. Alongside each step of her academic
Delhi University (part of her research was at MIT in career, she kept developing her skills by working
the US). She grew up studiously bhadralok on Kolkata’s in restaurants, notably in Japan (funded by a
Ripon Street, and started her academic career with a UNESCO fellowship) where she spent her evenings
BA in Bengali Literature from Jadavpur University. apprenticing in a family-run tempura and udon
While brilliant Bengali food was always part of her life specialist establishment. The jigsaw of her personal food
– she learned quite early how to expertly bone a hilsa philosophy started to fall in place. When she returned to
– the idea of making it her career loomed “like a sin.” Delhi, the scientist-turned-chef initiated a pop-up food
Then a bad break-up triggered an epiphany. delivery service for Durga Puja called Bento Bong, and
Dastidar found herself heartbroken and lonely in then opened her first restaurant, with the geeky-ironic
B
Delhi, irresistibly drawn to the old-school Japanese food name of Big Bongg Theory.
landmark Tamura Restaurant in Green Park, where
she always ordered the same thing: ramen for one (if
she felt slightly flush, some tempura went along with
it). She told me, “I was really depressed, and this bowl
of noodles talked to me. It was the only thing that made on vivant publisher Chiki Sarkar
me happy, and feel less alone. The idea came to me that was an early customer. She recalls,
if only I could learn to make this food, then I will be “Anumitra was still honing her craft,
cured, and the sadness will go away.” finding her language, but from the
Tamura is the unique, unlikely creation of a first time I ate her food I found her deeply promising
Japanese chef trying his luck in India after a long stint and terribly exciting. She was serious, inventive and
in Nepal, who has nonetheless failed to learn much passionate. I remember a wonderful Bengali sushi, and
English or Hindi. One might surmise he’s lonely too, a night centred on sorshe ilish, when Anumitra had
because Dastidar says he used to sit wordlessly all day gone to lengths to get a good hilsa [rare now even in
in the dining room, leafing quietly through back copies Kolkata] and spoke vividly about it, and the different
of Japanese newspapers. Even then, when the young kinds of rice we tried.”
graduate student timidly approached him to enquire It was Sarkar who invited another of her favourite
about the possibility of apprenticing in his kitchen, chefs, Ritu Dalmia, to try Dastidar’s food. Dalmia told
Tamura-san was unmoved. “He told me there were no me, “I remember that meal very well, I had gone with
women on his staff. And no toilets suitable for me to Chiki, and another friend. We were the only guests, and
use,” recalls Dastidar. “Basically, fuck off.” Anumitra was this little, short, nerdy-looking girl, who
Luckily, the story does not end there. The ardent really did not care how many people were dining at
apprentice-in-the-making kept returning to pester her restaurant, this little hole in the wall. The food was
Tamura-san, and finally, this reluctant sensei acquiesced outstanding, and she even made me my favoruite aloo
to allow her in the kitchen (with the concession she posto. What impressed me more than the food was her
could use the customers’ ladies room). But Dastidar incredible knowledge of every damn ingredient. It was
wasn’t permitted near the food. Instead, explaining that like talking to a walking, breathing encyclopedia.”
the Japanese system emphasised “you start from the That meeting changed Dastidar’s life. She joined the
bottom”, the boss made her his dishwasher. This seemed Diva team, in its period of most explosive growth. Via
fine, “a therapist had told me the only way to get over email from Italy, where she now lives, Dalmia told me,
what I was going through was to use my body, and I was “Anumitra was not very much exposed to European
happy cleaning plates and glasses. It was enjoyable.” and Italian cooking, but she was a fast learner, and
Step by step, over the course of an entire year, her curiosity ensured that she got a handle on it
Dastidar made her way up Tamura Restaurant’s ladder quickly. She got many opportunities to travel in Italy,
of responsibilities – chopping vegetables, cleaning fish, and to work with Michelin and Asian chefs, and took
making rice, then finally cooking everything – while maximum benefit, which many others did not. As a
also putting her academic life back together. “I became colleague, she has always been very gentle and easy-
everyone’s chhotu,” she tells me, “these boys were very going, very quiet; I always had a soft spot for her, so she
different from me, but I used my anthropology and never got the brunt of my famous temper.”
sociology training to fit in, and make things work. In The restaurant business is notoriously all-consuming.
my linguistics background, register shifting is really Dastidar tells me, “All I did was work. There was lots of
important. I used it consciously, and that’s how I became travel, and so much to learn, and huge responsibilities.
accepted by the team and also by Tamura-san.” There was no possibility of even thinking about doing
114
“ANUMITRA IS A TRAVELLER,
A DREAMER, A THINKER. SHE HAS
ROAMED THROUGH TRIBAL BELTS
DISCOVERING EDIBLE ROOTS
AND MUSHROOMS, SHE KNOWS
VIRTUALLY EVERY CHILLI
AND FERMENTED DISH IN THE
NORTH–EAST. TO DINE AT EDIBLE
ARCHIVES IS NOT JUST TO ENJOY
A signature
A GREAT MEAL, IT IS TO BE Edible
Archives
PART OF A FASCINATING STORY bowl
– ABOUT THE INGREDIENTS,

Krishan told me, “Initially, my involvement was purely
THE GROWERS, THE FARMERS, theoretical – we conceptualised the idea of Edible Archives
together, with its focus on the linkages to biodiversity,
THE FISHERMEN”
furthering indigenous knowledge systems, and sustainable
agriculture, all of which I had been thinking about
through various lenses. As an editor who always worked
with independent publishing houses, I was clear about the
importance of diversity in publishing [bibliodiversity], the
dangers of churning out formulaic books chasing the latest
trends, and the crucial importance of translation from
regional languages to English to allow for a plurality of
Kodumpulli
fish curry: A
voices – so from there the parallels were clear.”
quintessential Once the idea gained steam, and Dastidar quit her job
Kerala fish curry, with Dalmia to prepare for the Kochi-Muziris Biennale
served in any
toddy shop across
project, Krishan realised, “I found myself increasingly
the state. With involved in the practical aspects of how to translate
sour kodumpulli, what we’d been working on into a restaurant format,
pungent garlic
and spicy chillies,
with its underlying consumerist foundation. I think none
it’s the perfect of us really realised how much I was involved in the
meal after a few day-to-day running of the project, until I found myself
drinks of toddy
completely exhausted.”
Panta bhaath, a
fermented rice
anything else.” But in 2015, her father died, and the dish, traditionally
eaten in rural
young restaurateur started to gauge her own life, areas of Bengal,
looking for something more. Her sister – who works in is served here
the glamour industry for the cosmetic company Lakmé with fried fish and
chutneys
– decided drastic measures were needed. She created a
Tinder account, and Dastidar connected with someone
almost immediately. Shalini Krishan entered her life.
An experienced, unusually thoughtful publishing
professional, Krishan brings formidable skills to her
IMAGE: MANOJ PARAMESWARAN
professional and personal partnership with Dastidar.

She has been an effective Delhi activist in the
community-based Survivors Against TB movement, a
founding member of Qashti (a resource centre and space
“for and by LGBTQ people”) and is on the core working
group in the Delhi Queer Pride Committee.
115
THE ARCHIVISTS OF ASSAGAO
I
For her part, Dastidar says, “At Kochi I realised that
for the first time, I didn’t have to manage every aspect
of it all alone. Shalini was also there to think about
conservation, advocacy, activism around indigenous
food knowledge, just as much as me. I was making n some key ways, Edible Archives is riding
the food with the consciousness of all these ideas, but the waves of global food trends that have
they needed to be spelled out, which I would do via the been building for decades. Back in 2006, in his
medium of the food itself. But food doesn’t always talk contemporary classic The Omnivore’s Dilemma,
to everyone – it holds a space in long-term memory, the great Michael Pollan laid out what could be termed
but doesn’t always speak legibly. Shalini’s process of as the woke food manifesto: “Imagine if we had a
articulation allows the words to create their own life, food system that actually produced wholesome food.
and create a new vision, which in turn can influence my Imagine if it produced that food in a way that restored
ideas of the food. It became a conversation.” the land. Imagine if we could eat every meal knowing
There were several close collaborators on the Edible these few simple things: What it is we’re eating; where
Archives project in Kochi. One of them, Priya Bala, told it came from; how it found its way to our table. And
me, “A couple of years ago, I interviewed Claus Meyer, what it really cost. If that was the reality, then every
one of the architects of the Nordic food movement. As I meal would have the potential to be a perfect meal…
listened to him and heard how he and a dedicated team We can change the way we make and get our food so
had lifted the Nordic region out of its culinary darkness, that it becomes food again – something that feeds our
I could not help but think that Chef Anumitra has what bodies and our souls. Imagine it: Every meal would
it takes to do that in India, to break free of the mostly connect us to the joy of living and the wonder of nature.
mindless approach many restaurants have been taking Every meal would be like saying grace.”
till now and to tread a new path.” That message has become even more crucial in our
Bala says, “Chef Anumitra’s food is in a class of collective pandemic predicament, with global supply
its own: she will not take shortcuts, she respects lines extinguished and the burning need to live
ingredients and she is an expert in the art, science and sustainably wherever we find ourselves. This makes
techniques that make up cooking. She’s a traveller, what Krishan and Dastidar are doing of paramount
a dreamer, a thinker. She has roamed through tribal importance, and their rigorous approach shows in every
belts discovering edible roots and mushrooms, she aspect of their labours. Where else would you find ten
knows virtually every chilli and fermented dish in different rices from around the country showcased from
the North-East. No other chef I know has quite the one kitchen, and presented with detailed notes about
same wide canvas of experiences and, consequently, starch content, chalkiness, grain size and degree of
perspective as she does. To dine at Edible Archives scentedness? What other restaurant could have its
is not just to enjoy a great meal, it is to be part of a own booth at the Goa Open Arts Festival, inviting
fascinating story – about the ingredients, the growers, visitors to map their emotional responses to various
the farmers, the fishermen.” bite-sized tidbits?
(From left)
Anumitra and
Shalini at work;
the fare served
116
A s the brilliant Vikram Doctor
– in my view, the best Indian
writer on food, who recently
moved very close to Assagao
– told me, “They are showing how practical activism
works in the way they are combining their kitchen
with their garden, and building networks of traditional
food producers, like rice growers and small fishermen
in Goa. It is a model for how a restaurant can also
be a catalyst for awareness on environmental issues,
sustainability and preservation of local food traditions.”
Doctor added, “The dishes I have really loved
have been those that aren’t exactly off the menu, but
are things that Chef Anu is always ready to make on-
demand, or concocts based on what she has sourced
that very day from her network of fishing contacts, or
WHERE ELSE WOULD YOU
FIND TEN DIFFERENT RICES
FROM AROUND THE
COUNTRY SHOWCASED
FROM ONE KITCHEN,
AND PRESENTED WITH
DETAILED NOTES ABOUT
STARCH CONTENT,
CHALKINESS, GRAIN SIZE
AND DEGREE OF
SCENTEDNESS? WHAT
from what is growing in the kitchen garden – which
is totally worth seeing in itself, if you are at the OTHER RESTAURANT COULD
restaurant at lunchtime.”
He said, “Perhaps the best meal I’ve had was at
HAVE ITS OWN BOOTH AT
one lunchtime in summer when it was really hot THE GOA OPEN ARTS
and she asked if I wanted to eat panta bhaat, the
fermented rice dish made in Bengal and Odisha FESTIVAL, INVITING
(similar fermented dishes are made in other rice-
eating regions). She had simply left cooked rice to
VISITORS TO MAP THEIR
ferment overnight so it became slightly sour and tangy. EMOTIONAL RESPONSES
This was served cold along with side dishes of cooked
pumpkin slices, potato mashed with fiery mustard oil TO VARIOUS BITE-SIZED
and a chutney made of pumpkin flower leaves. Along
with it, for texture and contrast were hot and crisp
TIDBITS?
pumpkin flower fritters (from their vegetable garden)
and a kismur of small dried shrimp. The dish had
multiple textures and flavours, but was also healthy This is precisely what happened when the great
IMAGE: ARADHANA SETH (ANUMITRA AND SHALINI), MANOJ PARAMESWARAN (EDIBLE ARCHIVES BOWL)
and cooling in the heat. It was simply wonderful.” writer Amitav Ghosh, who has a home in another
When I asked Krishan what she would like new village in North Goa and is also one of the most
guests to keep in mind, she told me, “One should sophisticated culinary connoisseurs I know, visited
approach a meal at Edible Archives with a sense of Assagao to try out this new restaurant. He told me,
openness and curiosity, because things are unlikely to “Anumitra is incredibly erudite and with an array of
follow a familiar pattern, and delving under the surface skills. Edible Archives is outstanding, even in Goa’s
will reveal a great deal of thought. We are always crowded restaurant landscape. Not only is the food
aware of exactly what goes into making the food, and extraordinary, going to the restaurant is also an
are keen to share with people who are interested – and educational experience in the sense that it introduces
that often includes not just the source and grower/ you to many kinds of cuisines and techniques.”
catcher of each ingredient, but also a fully rounded There’s much more to come, because Krishan and
picture of the nutrition that the dish brings with it. Chef Dastidar are in perpetual motion. Every few
Since we don’t believe in using the kind of shorthand days, even in the throes of quarantine, their social
that says ‘rice = carbs = bad for diabetes’ or ‘olive oil is media broadcasts something seriously enticing: butter
best’, or identifying various exotic ‘superfoods’, we’re flavoured with teflam (Goa’s indigenous version of
more likely to explain why a particular variety of oil sichuan pepper), miso-marinated brinjal, sun-dried
or rice, or chilli, when used in conjunction with other breadfruit. This is the image of self-sufficiency, the
elements in the meal, or the season, is the best option epitome of sustainable cooking, and seriously yummy to
for now. When people are interested, this leads to boot. The arc of moral deliciousness is long, but it leans
fascinating conversations and exchanges.” towards Edible Archives.
117
FRESH
Faced
A new entrant in the world
of dress watches, Lagado
is bringing an ultra-modern
aesthetic to millennials who like
to keep things simple, stylish
and easy to own
THE NEW KID
I
t will be a mistake to define luxury Adding to its sartorial appeal, targeted at
by price moving forward, it’s going the “multi-hyphenate individual”, according
to revolve around quality,” says to George, is a host of interchangeable straps,
Milvin George, settling comfortably including leather and Milanese mesh straps.
into his new role as founder and “Changing the strap of your watch makes you
CEO of Lagado Watches, not long feel like you’re wearing a new one.” Lagado’s
after leaving behind his role as entry into the watch market comes at a time
Managing Director of Panerai’s Middle East when the definition of luxury is in flux, with
division (among others). Although George uses a millennials and Gen Z not quite as inclined to
wide array of descriptions to convey the brand’s buy their first tourbillon as they may have been.
essence, one definition stands out: “Watches The 44mm is a quartz chronograph, featuring
influenced by Italian design principles.” It’s three sub-dials on a brushed dial with a golden
clear that design is at the forefront of the brand’s stainless steel case. Accompanied by a bevy
appeal. So what missing piece of the horological of finely tanned Italian leather straps (sold
jigsaw does Lagado possess? separately), the watch makes a compelling case
For the moment, the fledgling brand is for itself with a price tag of `23,387.
focussing on three collections, out of which It’s much the same with the Tempo 41.5mm
two are for men. The Evolve 44mm and the (starting at `18,271), which is simpler in
All Lagado
Tempo 41.5mm are both quartz powered, execution, but with the added novelty of having a
watches come with
with a bold and clean interface that focuses shatter-resistant couple of marble-coloured dials in the collection.
on materials and aesthetic more than it does sapphire crystal With only an outer hour track and a small seconds
WORDS: PARTH CHARAN
on mechanical ingenuity. At least for now. dial covers and sundial punctuating a monochromatic backdrop,
“Mechanical movements are currently under can be ordered the Tempo has a lucid yet impactful design.
review,” says George, adding, “Our watch from its website Lagado is sourcing the best manufacturers and
development department is working on a lagadowatches.com designers from around the world to make versatile
three- to five-year plan.” watches to fit in with your global adventures.

OR’S ED
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THE LAST WORD IN TRAVEL INDIAN EDITION

OCT-NOV 2020 | 200
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THE LAST WORD IN TRAVEL INDIAN EDITION

OCT-NOV 2020 | 200
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SCI-FLY
FORTRESS OF
India’s first electric form of automotive luxury – the Mercedes-Benz EQC – is

a slick foray on to much greener pastures
POWERTRAIN:
MERCEDES-
80KW LITHIUM-
BENZ EQC
ION BATTERY
POWERING TWO
ELECTRIC MOTORS
MOUNTED ON
THE FRONT AND
REAR AXLE
POWER 300K W (408BHP) TORQUE 760NM PRICE `99.3 L AKH

D espite overwhelming
evidence to the contrary,
being at the wheel of an
electric Mercedes on a
mostly empty Marine
Drive, under clear blue Mumbai skies, can convince you
momentarily that it’s a fine time to be alive. From a
purely technological standpoint, I suppose it is, since the
EQC is a landmark event in the Indian car market.
Although its April launch was shelved in light of
the SARS-CoV-2 pandemic, the EQC has made it to
the finish line just in time to still be the first electric
offering from a luxury carmaker. And while Mercedes-
Benz has ten electric counterparts lined up from
A to S-Class, it’s the EQC that marks its debut in
the segment, where, at least internationally, it’s got
some serious competition to take on. Here, however,
it is priced on par with the likes of the S-Class, and, 70 per cent of EV charging
therefore, will have to deliver gobsmacking levels of happens at home or
refinement and comfort. Since it shares the GLC’s offices using low-power
platform, there’s an air of familiarity to it. It’s not A/C charging
outlandishly futuristic and it’s got just enough placidity
to its exterior to signify that this doesn’t belong to the
usual crop of Mercs. For posterity’s sake, if nothing
else, it remains closely linked, in appearance, to its much as it is bewildering. Because this thing weighs
fossil fuel-powered counterpart; although that tapering two and a half tonnes, with the battery alone weighing
roofline does cut down on headroom considerably. over 650kg. Its kinetic fury is entirely muted and yet,
And the EQC’s design, while better suited to impact at full-throttle it moves with such astonishing pace
absorption, doesn’t utilise space in the same manner that my petrolhead sensibilities needed complete
most luxury EVs do. recalibration. It cuts through the air like a javelin, all
The interiors confirm that we’re indeed dealing the while maintaining the tranquility of a zen garden
with a creature very different from the GLC. Copper on the inside. Despite the weight, it manages a claimed
air vents, green and blue ambient lighting, alcantara range of over 471km, although I never had a chance to
and leather seats – the interiors are a tasteful mix of drain the battery, or see just how fast it can charge. I
traditional Merc luxury and a vision of the future that’s suppose regenerative braking had a tiny role to play.
more organic and inviting than it is cold and sterile. The EQC possesses the sense of refinement and
There’s a large 10.5-inch, single-slab screen detailing imperviousness of the Mercs of yore. The kinds which
out everything from the level of energy consumption made dictators feel secure from the piercing gaze
to regeneration, while Merc’s MBUX sorts out the and, let’s face it, bullets of disgruntled citizenry. And
multimedia chores as per usual. It even operates in that, ultimately, is what remains with you long after
a manner identical to any new age Merc. Slot the bragging rights of going green have ceased to curry
steering mounted lever into “D” and off you go with the admiration of peers. Electric cars in India have
WORDS; PARTH CHARAN. IMAGE: PARTH CHARAN (OUTDOOR), © DAIMLER AG
nary a care or sound. thus far been relegated to an urbane niche, lacking
First thing I notice is that it’s very, very quiet in here. a champion that can revolutionise the way they’ve
Just the way Elmer Fudd would want it. EVs might been viewed thus far: as admirable first efforts, but
still be a novelty, but we’re all familiar with the stealthy nowhere near on par with top of the line luxury and
manner in which a hybrid electric pulls out of the performance cars. Much like the Tesla Model X, the
driveway. This car makes a hybrid sound like a Harrier EQC is a halo product, whose refinement makes
jet in comparison. It’s not just the manner in which it internal combustion cars seem antediluvian by
comes to life, it’s the way it insulates the cabin from all comparison. Electric mobility continues to be plagued
unwelcome sounds, be it tyre, suspension or wind noise. by many challenges: a heavy reliance on battery cell
Then there’s the way this thing delivers power. The imports and a patchwork charging infrastructure,
EQC cuts out any mechanical or chemical middlemen among others. But if the electric car’s lack of allure
present in internal combustion engine cars with its and sheer driving pleasure was ever a concern for the
300Kw (408bhp) power delivery, and breaks the 760Nm discerning, dyed-in-the-wool connoisseur of petrol-
torque-filled piggy bank right off the bat. And it’s not powered luxury, Merc has put paid to that notion.
performance like you’ve ever experienced before. The Because, the EQC is a holistic mix of fortified comfort,
EQC’s silent march to triple digits isn’t gut-bending as uncanny performance and sublime refinement.

ACTUALLY
In its new season, The Crown tackles the saga of Prince Charles
and Diana Spencer. Julie Miller catches up with actors Emma Corrin
and Josh O’Connor about portraying one of the most famous
(and ill-fated) couples of the 20th century
PHOTOGR APHED BY BRETT LLOYD ST YLED BY TOM GUINNESS
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ON EMMA:
SHIRT BY BURBERRY.
EARRINGS BY
CHANEL HIGH JEWELRY
ON JOSH:
JUMPER BY VALENTINO.
SHIRT BY TURNBULL &
ASSER. TROUSERS BY JIL
SANDER. WATCH BY CARTIER

ON JOSH:
SUIT BY HERMÈS. SHIRT,
POCKET SQUARE; BOTH BY
NEW & LINGWOOD. RING BY
HANOCKS LONDON
ON EMMA:
JACKET, TROUSERS;
BOTH BY CELINE

As fate would have it, the actor’s mother, Juliette
Corrin, a speech therapist, grew up being told that
she resembled the late princess. Corrin herself
worked as a model while she was at university,
collecting a handful of acting roles along the way, the
most significant of which was as the love interest
on Pennyworth, the origin story of Bruce Wayne’s
butler, Alfred. Several years ago, Corrin received
an unexpected invitation from The Crown’s casting
directors – not to audition, but to be a scene partner
for actors reading for the character of Parker Bowles.
Corrin bore such a similarity to the lapis-eyed Diana
– and affects her coy smile so easily – that Morgan
says everyone was “transfixed”. When it came time
to film, she was outfitted in a feathered blond wig,
demure makeup and a trousseau of impeccably
recreated costumes that telegraph the princess’s arc
from frumpy school aide to high-end fashion plate.
The transformation was so total that even months
after shooting, O’Connor says that when he sees a
photo of the real-life princess, his first reaction is,
The first time Diana Spencer appears onscreen in “ ‘Oh look, there’s Emma.’ ”
the fourth season of Netflix’s The Crown, she’s 16 Charles, in season four, is no longer the
and trying to blend into the scenery. It’s 1977. Prince sympathetic character wrestling with themes of
Charles has come to pick up her older sister, Sarah. responsibility and duty that he was in season three.
Diana, still wearing a tree costume from a school play, (His performance was so compelling that O’Connor
wants to see but not be seen, so she tries hiding in said both Bradley Cooper and Alec Baldwin reached
some foliage. But even as a teenager, the future Lady out to him as fans.) The Charles of season four is
Di – played by eerily resemblant newcomer Emma more flawed – hopelessly in love with a woman he
Corrin – is unmissable. Charles (Josh O’Connor) can’t can’t marry while married to a woman he can’t seem
help but fall into her magnetic pull. to love. To prepare, O’Connor read about arranged
“She’s just such an extraordinary character,” marriages and the psychology of marital breakdowns.
said Peter Morgan, the Oscar-, Emmy- and Tony- “I’m more wary of marriage now,” he says with
nominated screenwriter and creator of The Crown, a laugh.
who has spent the last decade and a half – since his Corrin, meanwhile, researched the late
film The Queen – imagining what Buckingham Palace princess hungrily – reading about her traumatic
looks like behind the scenes. “She was very much the childhood, littering her computer desktop with
British Eva Perón – such a mythic figure, so much screengrabs from the documentary Diana: In Her
bigger than anything we’d been used to.” Own Words, and installing a photo of Diana with
The first three seasons of the Netflix drama Prince Philip as her computer backdrop. (When
plumbed dark palace halls and cold Windsor hearts, Corrin acquired a cockapoo puppy, she named him
wringing emotion from unspoken words, unfulfilled Spencer.) The actor also spoke to Diana’s private
ambitions and affections, and other collateral damage secretary, Patrick Jephson.
of constitutional duty. But Corrin’s Diana bursts into “Something he said was how happy she was,”
the series in a cloud of naïveté, baggy jumpers and says Corrin. “Obviously there was a tragic strain
Stevie Nicks songs – ready for a fairy tale only to be throughout her life, which you feel very much
served a depressing reality. Her prince? His heart in the series. She had so much heartbreak, loss
already belongs to Camilla Parker Bowles. Her new and loneliness, but Patrick said that her natural
family? Aloof and disinterested. Her palace? A posh inclination was towards happiness.” Corrin tried to
prison. Diana’s heart-wrenching season four storyline reflect that lightness in scenes of Diana with her
follows her from her fast-tracked courtship to her children, Diana interacting with the public, or Diana
marital dissolution – with stops in motherhood, in- simply listening to music and dancing.
law clashes and affairs along the way. Another question Corrin asked Jephson was
“You really see her turn from a girl into a woman,” whether he believed Diana truly loved Charles.
says Corrin, the 24-year-old Brit cast in the iconic Jephson, says Corrin, did not hesitate to respond:
role. (Elizabeth Debicki will continue the Princess
Diana transformation when she succeeds Corrin for
The Crown’s final two seasons.) “We see her before
she goes into the palace, when she is living with her
flatmates, and how normal she was before she was
plucked from obscurity.”
125
“YOU REALLY SEE HER TURN
FROM A GIRL INTO A WOMAN...
HOW NORMAL SHE WAS
BEFORE SHE WAS PLUCKED
FROM OBSCURITY”
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DRESS BY GUCCI.
WATCH BY CARTIER
(OPPOSITE)
BLAZER BY GIVENCHY.
SHIRT BY TURNBULL &
ASSER. JEANS BY LEVIʼS. TIE
BY POLO RALPH LAUREN.
WATCH BY CARTIER
XX

“Undoubtedly. To the very, very end.” Says Corrin,
“Honestly, that breaks my heart completely.
Patrick said, ‘Even when they were fighting and
getting the divorce, her only concern was that
Charles was all right.’ ”
Morgan wove the same theme into his scripts have an extraordinary sense of duty. They both have
for the show. “I don’t think she ever stopped loving a strong Christian faith. They’re both girls of the war
Charles,” he says. “I think she had grown to realise generation who switch the lights off when they leave
that marriage was impossible... I think she may have a room. But then they had such different ideas about
loved other people towards the end of it, but I think running the country.”
her number one choice would have been to make that It is tragic to see two women in such rare positions
marriage work.” of power – both of them trying to parent adult
children and navigate male egos both at home and
at work – struggle to connect. Morgan knew that
casting Thatcher would be crucial. He needed an
actor imposing enough to hold her own opposite
Colman, the Oscar-winning star of The Favourite.
As it happened, he was dating Anderson, the Emmy-
winning X-Files actor, who resembles Thatcher from
certain angles. Morgan proceeded delicately. He
suggested Anderson to casting director Nina Gold,
but only, he insisted, if Gold considered her the
best person for the part. The Crown filmed most of
its fourth season before the coronavirus outbreak,
then lost several weeks of production because of the
lockdown. Knowing that filming would be on hold for
months, Morgan cannily restructured the episodes.
“The truth is, yes, we are missing at least two weeks
of filming,” he says about having to make do. “I just
hope you can’t tell where.”
Morgan avoids dwelling on contemporary royal
In addition to delving into the couple’s affairs, headlines while filming, but as he was making the
Morgan depicts Diana’s battle with bulimia – a new season, two erupted. The first was increased
mode of self-harm that can be difficult to portray, scrutiny over Prince Andrew’s relationship with
in all of its shadings, onscreen. “It just struck me late convicted sex offender Jeffrey Epstein. Writing
that to not represent it would be to deny the former an episode in which the queen reexamines her
Princess of Wales some of the true complexity of her relationship with each of her young adult children,
character,” says Morgan. “Her own suffering made Morgan laid the groundwork for the present-day
her have compassion for other people. And it was scandal only sparingly: “If you draw too many
the compassion she showed for other people that intentional parallels, it actually becomes quite ugly.”
was what made everyone love her. Everyone has The second blaring headline, of course, was
vulnerabilities and frailties. And she wore hers on Meghan Markle’s difficulty adjusting to the royal
her sleeve – which, of course, is the opposite of family – and her and husband Harry’s eventual
royalty. You’re representing an idea and an ideal, split from the monarchy. “When you see a beautiful
and you don’t want there to be too much humanity young princess struggling to find love and acceptance
in the way.” within the family, the parallels are obvious and the
The Crown’s fourth season spans the late parallels write themselves,” he says. “If you come
1970s to the early 1990s, and also examines the into [the royal family] with any agenda for yourself
fascinating relationship between Queen Elizabeth – or if you come in and connect with the public in a
(Olivia Colman) and Margaret Thatcher (Gillian way that threatens to change the way that the royal
Anderson). With Thatcher, Elizabeth was contending family connects with the public – that’s something
not only with her first female PM, but also with a that doesn’t particularly sit comfortably for either
contemporary. “When I found out that they were born side. Really, the only version of events that works
only six months apart, that was a big breakthrough is if somebody comes in and becomes invisible, and
for me,” says Morgan. “Because of their generation, just sort of knuckles down to a lifetime of agreeable
they had a lot of things in common – they’re both supplicancy to the duties of the crown. Diana
very resilient, very committed, work incredibly hard, struggled to fit in with the institution in a way that
it’s impossible not to see the parallels with Meghan
Markle and Harry. So the story feels both incredibly
vivid historically, but also it really shines a lot of
lights on where we are now.”
128
ON EMMA:
COAT, SHIRT, TROUSERS,
BOOTS; ALL BY CHLOÉ.
EARRINGS BY CHOPARD
ON JOSH:
COAT BY PAUL STUART.
SHIRT BY TURNBULL &
ASSER. TROUSERS BY POLO
RALPH LAUREN. SHOES BY
CROCKET & JONES
HAIR: LOUIS GHEWY

MAKE-UP: MATHIAS
VAN HOOFF
GROOMING: LIZ TAW
SET DESIGN: CAMILLA BYLES
PRODUCTION:
ROSCO PRODUCTION
WORDS: PARTH CHARAN. IMAGE: PARTH CHARAN (CAR EXTERIOR)
Kia Motors’ winning streak continues with a new, beefed up, compact SUV

R
LINE DANCE
Roughly 20 minutes into Kia Motors India’s rigorous

disinfection process, it became clear to me that this is
an exacting brand. There was a freshly minted Sonet at
my doorstep, being given the once over and prompting
me to consider a second shower, just to match the
brand’s hygiene standards. Over the last year, we’ve
borne witness to the Kia success story, with the arrival
of the Seltos – now one of the top 10 bestselling cars
in the country. But, Kia had cut its teeth in the global touchscreen that lies perfectly aligned with the driver’s
car market much before that, with the likes of the Kia line of sight. An antiviral (Kia’s claim, not ours) air
Sportage and the Soul having established themselves as purifier and a sunroof round off the staggering levels
two of the most successful cars in the US. of electronic equipment which underline its segment-
With only a sub-four-metre gap left to cover, the busting chops.
brand was quick to showcase the Sonet concept at this Straight off the bat, it’s the “iMT”, or intelligent
year’s Delhi Auto Expo. For the uninitiated, the Kia transmission, plonked into this reasonably power-dense
Sonet is, on the surface, a dressier counterpart to the turbo-petrol that grabs your attention through its
Hyundai Venue. Kia’s conveniently dropped an ‘n’ from sheer ingenuity. Sure, there’s a dual-clutch automatic
the car’s poetic namesake, perhaps as a preemptive option, but the iMT allows the ideal compromise
measure to stop the question “Shall I compare thee to a between comfort and economy, with its clutchless gear
Hyundai Venue?” from cropping up. Its muscular design, shifts, much like an automatic, while still possessing
aggressive lines and scalpel-sculpted bodywork sets it a conventional and economical six-speed gearbox
apart by a country mile from any rival car, particularly that needs to be engaged manually. It might take you
the GT trim. In fact, the Sonet, in production form, has a moment or two to get accustomed to this unique,
managed to look almost identical to the concept version two-pedal set-up, but in rush hour, you’re mercifully
showcased at the expo in February. Going purely by the spared of foot-numbing clutch work. And in case you’re
broad, protruding wheel arches, fleshed out C-pillar, wondering, there’s no way to stall the vehicle because,
LED head and tail lamps, the Sonet does its best to should you forget to downshift, a beeping reminder will
challenge the notion of being “Compact” while staying prompt you to put it in the right gear and keep moving.
well within its sub-four-metre confines. Sure, having to reverse without getting to modulate
If the Sonet caught your fancy upon first glance, the clutch might take some getting used to, but, on the
you probably know how generously Kia has lavished whole, the iMT is going to get emphatic nods of approval
its interiors with the kind of tech you get in much from a multitude of urban commuters.
fancier cars. In fact, the Sonet’s USP is just how much it The 1.0-litre, three-cylinder, turbo-petrol gets 118bhp
quantifiably manages to bring to the table for its price of power and an even more impressive 172Nm of
(`11.99 lakh, ex-showroom, for the GT petrol trim that torque. Not long ago, these numbers would propel a car
I drove). Every gadget, every convenience expected in a straight into warm-hatch territory, but on the Sonet,
standard luxury car can be found here, so well-outfitted it feels adequate enough to give you a punchy driving
is the Sonet. The all-black interiors, which, much like experience, if not a downright electrifying one. What
the car’s muscular exterior, is designed to signify the does truly surprise you is just how well it fares on open
car’s innate athleticism. There’s also a chunky flat- highways. For a three-pot motor, it’s quite peppy.
bottomed, leather-wrapped steering – just one fine With prices starting at `6.71 lakh (ex-showroom,
example of the generous use of leather inside the cabin. Mumbai) the Sonet holds strong appeal, even in base
The front-row seats are ventilated and cooled, there’s form. Sharp looks, an eclectic and off-beat range of paint
a wireless charging dock (with wireless Apple CarPlay schemes and a battery of electronic equipment – the
compatibility), a digital cockpit and a large 10.25-inch Sonet just raised the bar.
KIA SONET
GTX 1.0
T-GDI
ENGINE
1.0-LITRE,
3-CYLINDER,
TURBO-PETROL
POWER
118BHP
The top-end petrol
TORQUE variant of the Sonet is
172NM
also available with a
TRANSMISSION 7-speed dual-clutch
6-SPEED IMT transmission

COAT, SHIRT, TROUSERS; PHOTOGRAPHED BY MARK PILLAI
ALL BY DOLCE & STYLED BY NIK PIRAS
GABBANA. BOOTS,
SUNGLASSES; BOTH BY
BOTTEGA VENETA
Dress
Update your wardrobe
as tailoring goes softer
with techno fabrics and
unexpected detailing, worn
with heavy-duty boots
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SUIT, SHIRT, TIE;
ALL BY DIOR MEN.
SUNGLASSES, KEY
RING; BOTH BY
BOTTEGA VENETA
LEFT:
BLAZER,
JACKET,
BACKPACK;
ALL BY
CANALI
RIGHT:
GILET, SHIRT,
TIE; ALL BY
CANALI
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FRONT: JACKET, SHIRT;
BOTH BY SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO
BEHIND: JUMPER, SHIRT;

BOTH BY SAINT LAURENT
BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO
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ON BOTH:
COAT, TROUSERS;
BOTH BY EMPORIO
ARMANI. BOOTS BY
BOTTEGA VENETA
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COAT, SHIRT, TROUSERS,
BOOTS, TIE; ALL BY
LOUIS VUITTON
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TURTLENECK, SHIRT,
TROUSERS; ALL BY
BOTTEGA VENETA
GROOMING:
ASTOR HOXHA/
CLOSEUPMILANO
CASTING DIRECTOR:
SIMONE BART
ROCCHIETTI
FASHION EDITOR:
NICOLÒ ANDREONI
MODELS: TOBIAS
DIONISI/BOOM
MODELS AGENCY;
CALLUM STODDART/
IMG MODELS
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YouTube’s
PloT To
silence
WRIT TEN BY CLIVE THOMPSON
ILLUSTR ATED BY BR ÁULIO AMADO
consPiracY
Theories
From flat-earthers to QAnon to Covid quackery,
the video giant is awash in misinformation. Can
AI keep the lunatic fringe from going viral?
Mark sargenT saw

insTanTlY ThaT his
siTuaTion had changed
for The worse.
a
A voluble, white-haired 52-year-old, Sargent is a flat-earth evangelist who lives on
Whidbey Island in Washington state and drives a Chrysler with the vanity plate
“ITSFLAT.” But he’s well known around the globe, at least among those who don’t
believe they are living on one. That’s thanks to YouTube, which was the on-ramp
both to his flat-earth ideas and to his subsequent international stardom.
Formerly a tech-support guy and competitive virtual pinball player, Sargent had
long been intrigued by conspiracy theories, ranging from UFOs to Bigfoot to Elvis’
immortality. He believed some (Bigfoot) and doubted others (“Is Elvis still alive?
Probably not. He died on the toilet with a whole bunch of drugs in his system”).
140
Then, in 2014, he stumbled upon his first flat-earth Crucial to his success, he says, was YouTube’s
video on YouTube. recommendation system, the feature that promotes
He couldn’t stop thinking about it. In February 2015, videos for you to watch on the homepage or on the “Up
he began uploading his own musings, in a series called Next” column to the right of whatever you’re watching.
“Flat Earth Clues.” As he has reiterated in a sprawling “We were recommended constantly,” he tells me.
corpus of more than 1,600 videos, our planet is not a YouTube’s algorithms, he says, figured out that “people
ball floating in space; it’s a flat, Truman Show-like getting into flat earth apparently go down this rabbit
terrarium. Scientists who insist otherwise are wrong, hole, and so we’re just gonna keep recommending.”
NASA is outright lying, and the government dares not Scholars who study conspiracy theories were
level with you, because then it would have to admit that realising the same thing. YouTube was a gateway
a higher power (Aliens? God? Sargent’s not sure about drug. One academic who interviewed attendees
this part) built our terrarium world. of a flat-earth convention found that, almost to a
Sargent’s videos are intentionally lo-fi affairs. person, they’d discovered the subculture via YouTube
There’s often a slide show that might include images recommendations. And while one might shrug at this as
of Copernicus (deluded), astronauts in space (faked), or marginal weirdness – they think the Earth is flat, who
Antarctica (made off-limits by a cabal of governments to cares? Enjoy the crazy, folks – the scholarly literature
hide Earth’s edge), which appear onscreen as he speaks finds that conspiratorial thinking often colonises the
in a chill, avuncular voice-over.
Sargent’s top YouTube video received nearly 1.2
million views, and he has amassed 89,200 followers –
hardly epic by modern influencer standards but solid
enough to earn a living from the preroll ads, as well as
paid speaking and conference gigs.
“You will never see
mind. Start with flat earth, and you may soon believe
Sandy Hook was a false-flag operation or that vaccines
flat-earth videos
cause autism or that Q’s warnings about Democrat recommended to
You, basicallY ever,”
paedophiles are a serious matter. Once you convince
yourself that well-documented facts about the solar
system are a fraud, why believe well-documented facts
about anything? Maybe the most trustworthy people
sargent told me in
are the outsiders, those who dare to challenge the dismaY when we first
conventions and who – as Sargent understood – would
be far less powerful without YouTube’s algorithms spoke in april 2020. It
amplifying them.
For four years, Sargent’s flat-earth videos got a
was as if Youtube had
steady stream of traffic from YouTube’s algorithms. flipped a switch
Then, in January 2019, the flow of new viewers
suddenly slowed to a trickle. His videos weren’t being
recommended anywhere near as often. When he spoke collaborative filtering: If you watched video A, and lots
to his flat-earth peers online, they all said the same of people who watched A also watched B, then YouTube
thing. New folks weren’t clicking. What’s more, Sargent would recommend you watch B too. This simple system
discovered, someone – or something – was watching also up-ranked videos that got lots of views, under
his lectures and making new decisions: The YouTube the assumption that it was a signal of value. That
algorithm that had previously recommended other methodology tended to create winner-take-all dynamics
conspiracies was now more often pushing mainstream that resulted in “Gangnam Style”-type virality; lesser-
videos posted by CBS, ABC, or Jimmy Kimmel Live, known uploads seldom got a chance.
including ones that debunked or mocked conspiracist In 2011, Google tapped Cristos Goodrow, who was
ideas. YouTube wasn’t deleting Sargent’s content, but then director of engineering, to oversee YouTube’s
it was no longer boosting it. And when attention is search engine and recommendation system. Goodrow
currency, that’s nearly the same thing. noticed another problem caused by YouTube’s focus on
“You will never see flat-earth videos recommended views, which was that it encouraged creators to use
to you, basically ever,” he told me in dismay when we misleading tactics – like racy thumbnails – to dupe
first spoke in April 2020. It was as if YouTube had people into clicking. Even if a viewer immediately
flipped a switch. bailed, the click would goose the view count higher,
In a way, it had. Scores of them, really – a small boosting the video’s recommendations.
army of algorithmic tweaks, deployed beginning in Goodrow and his team decided to stop ranking videos
2019. Sargent’s was among the first accounts to feel based on clicks. Instead, they focused on “watch time”,
the effects of a grand YouTube project to teach its or how long viewers stayed with a video; it seemed to
recommendation AI how to recognise the conspiratorial them a far better metric of genuine interest. By 2015,
mindset and demote it. It was a complex feat of they would also introduce neural-net models to craft
engineering, and it worked; the algorithm is less likely recommendations. The model would take your actions
now to promote misinformation. But in a country where (whether you’d finished a video, say, or hit Like) and
conspiracies are recommended everywhere – including blend that with other information it had gleaned (your
by the president himself – even the best AI can’t fix search history, geographic region, gender and age, for
what’s broken. example; a user’s “watch history” became increasingly
significant too). Then the model would predict which
videos you’d be most likely to actually watch, and
When Google presto: recommendations, more personalised than ever.
bought YouTube The recommendation system became increasingly
in 2006, it was a crucial to YouTube’s frenetic push for growth. In 2012,
woolly start-up YouTube’s vice president of product, Shishir Mehrotra,
with a DIY declared that by the end of 2016 the site would hit a
premise: “Broadcast billion hours of watch time per day. It was an audacious
Yourself.” YouTube’s goal; at the time, people were watching YouTube
staff back then for only 100 million hours a day, compared to more
wasn’t thinking than 160 million on Facebook and 5 billion on TV. So
much about Goodrow and the engineers began thirstily hunting for
conspiracy theories or disinformation. The big concern, any tiny tweak that would bump watch time upward.
as an early employee told me, was what they referred By 2014, when Susan Wojcicki took over as CEO, the
to internally as “boobs and beheadings” – uploads of billion-hour goal “was a religion at YouTube, to the
pornography and gruesome al Qaeda actions. exclusion of nearly all else,” as she later told the venture
From the first, though, YouTube executives intuited capitalist John Doerr. She kept the goal in place.
that recommendations could fuel long binges of video The algorithmic tweaks worked. People spent more
surfing. By 2010, the site was suggesting videos using and more time on the site, and the new code meant
142
small creators and niche content were finding their who worked at YouTube from 2006 to 2009, told me, “It
audience. It was during this period that Sargent saw really is they are addicted to that traffic.”
his first flat-earth video. And it wasn’t just flat-earthers. YouTube executives deny that the billion-hour push
All kinds of misinformation, some of it dangerous, rose led to a banquet of conspiracies. “We don’t see evidence
to the top of watchers’ feeds. Teenage boys followed that extreme content or misinformation is on average
recommendations to far-right white supremacists more engaging, or generates more viewership, than
and Gamergate conspiracies; the elderly got stuck in anything else,” Goodrow said. (YouTube also challenged
loops about government mind control; anti-vaccine Farid and Chaslot’s research, saying it “does not
falsehoods found adherents. In Brazil, a marginal accurately reflect how YouTube’s recommendations
lawmaker named Jair Bolsonaro rose from obscurity work or how people watch and interact with YouTube.”)
to prominence in part by posting YouTube videos that But, within YouTube, the principle of “Broadcast
falsely claimed left-wing scholars were using “gay kits” Yourself”, without restriction, was colliding with
to convert kids to homosexuality. concerns about safety and misinformation.
In the hothouse of the 2016 US election season, On October 1, 2017, when a man used an arsenal of
observers argued that YouTube’s recommendations weapons to fire into a crowd of people at a concert in
were funnelling voters into ever-more-extreme content. Las Vegas, YouTube users immediately began uploading
Conspiracy thinkers and right-wing agitators uploaded false-flag videos claiming the shooting was orchestrated
false rumours about Hillary Clinton’s imminent mental to foment opposition to the Second Amendment.
collapse and involvement in a nonexistent pizzeria Just 12 hours after the shooting, Geoff Samek
paedophile ring, then watched, delightedly, as their arrived for his first day as a product manager at
videos lifted off in YouTube’s Up Next column. A former YouTube. For several days, he and his team were run
Google engineer named Guillaume Chaslot coded a web- ragged trying to identify fabulist videos and delete
scraper program to see, among other things, whether them. He was, he told me, “surprised” by how little was
YouTube’s algorithm had a political tilt. He found that in place to manage a crisis like this. (When I asked him
recommendations heavily favoured Trump as well as what the experience felt like, he sent me a clip of Tim
anti-Clinton material. The watch time system, in his Robbins being screamed at as a new mailroom hire in
view, was optimising for whomever was most willing to The Hudsucker Proxy.) The recommendation system
tell fantastic lies. was apparently making things worse; as BuzzFeed
As 2016 wore on and the billion-hour deadline reporters found, even three days after the shooting the
loomed, the engineers went into overdrive. system was still promoting videos like “PROOF: MEDIA
Recommendations had become the thrumming engine & LAW ENFORCEMENT ARE LYING.”
of YouTube, responsible for an astonishing 70 per cent
of all its watch time. In turn, YouTube became a key
source of revenue in the Alphabet empire.
Goodrow hit the target: On October 22, 2016, a few
weeks before the presidential election, users watched 1
billion hours of videos on YouTube.
After the 2016
A
election, the tech
industry came in
for a reckoning.
Critics laced
into Facebook’s
algorithm
for boosting
conspiratorial rants
and hammered
Twitter for letting in phalanxes of Russian bots.
Scrutiny of YouTube emerged a bit later. In 2018, a
UC Berkeley computer scientist named Hany Farid
teamed up with Guillaume Chaslot to run his scraper
again. This time, they ran the program daily for 15
months, looking specifically for how often YouTube
recommended conspiracy videos. They found the
frequency rose throughout the year; at the peak, nearly
one in 10 videos recommended were conspiracist fare.
“It turns out that human nature is awful,” Farid
tells me, “and the algorithms have figured this out, and
that’s what drives engagement.” As Micah Schaffer,
“I can say it was a challenging first day,” Samek told promoting them at all. “We noticed that some people
me dryly. “Frankly, I don’t think our site was performing were watching things that we weren’t happy with them
super well for misinformation... I think that kicked off a watching,” says Johanna Wright, one of YouTube’s
lot of things for us, and it was a turning point.” vice presidents of product management, “like flat-
YouTube already had policies forbidding certain earth videos.” This was what executives began calling
types of content, like pornography or speech “borderline” content. “It’s near the policy but not against
encouraging violence. To hunt down and delete these our policies,” as Wright said.
videos, the company used AI “classifiers” – code that By early 2018, YouTube executives decided they
automatically detects potentially policy-violating videos wanted to tackle the borderline material too. It would
by analysing, among other signals, the headlines or require adding a third R to their strategy – “reduce”.
the words spoken in a video (which YouTube generates They’d need to engineer a new AI system that would
using its automatic speech-to-text software). They also recognise conspiracy content and misinformation and
had human moderators who reviewed videos the AI down-rank it.
flagged for deletion.
After the Las Vegas shooting, executives began
focusing more on the challenge. Google’s content In February, I
I
moderators grew to 10,000, and YouTube created an visited YouTube’s
“intelligence desk” of people who hunt for new trends headquarters
in disinformation and other “inappropriate content”. in San Bruno,
YouTube’s definition of hate speech was expanded to California.
include Alex Jones’ claim that the murders at Sandy Goodrow had
Hook Elementary School never occurred. The site promised to show
had already created a “breaking-news shelf” that me the secret of
would run on the home-page and showcase links to that new AI.
content from news sources that Google News had It was the day
previously vetted. The goal, as Neal Mohan, YouTube’s after the Iowa caucuses, where a vote-counting app had
chief product officer, noted, was not just to delete the failed miserably. The news cycle was spinning crazily,
obviously bad stuff but to boost reliable, mainstream but inside YouTube the mood seemed calm. We filed
sources. Internally, they began to refer to this strategy into a conference room, and Goodrow plunked into
as a set of R’s: “remove” violating material and “raise a chair and opened his laptop. He has close-cropped
up” quality stuff. hair and sported a normcore middle-aged-dad style,
But what about content that wasn’t quite bad enough wearing a zip-up black sweater over beige khakis. A
to be deleted? Like alleged conspiracies or dubious mathematician by training, Goodrow can be intense;
information that doesn’t advocate violence or promote he was a dogged advocate of the billion-hour project
“dangerous remedies or cures” or otherwise explicitly and neurotically checked view stats every single day.
violate policies? Those videos wouldn’t be removed Last winter he mounted a brief and failed run in
by moderators or the content-blocking AI. And yet, the Democratic primary for his San Mateo County
some executives wondered if they were complicit by congressional district. Goodrow and I were joined by
Andre Rohe, a dry-witted German who came to YouTube
in 2015 to be head of Discovery engineering after three
years heading Google News.
Rohe beckoned me to his screen. He and Goodrow
seemed slightly nervous. The inner workings of
any system at Google are closely guarded secrets.
Engineers worry that if they reveal too much
about how any algorithm works – particularly one
designed to down-rank content – outsiders could
learn to outwit it. For the first time, Rohe and
Goodrow were preparing to reveal some details of the
recommendation revamp to a reporter.
To create an AI classifier that can recognise
borderline video content, you need to train the AI with
many thousands of examples. To get those training
videos, YouTube would have to ask hundreds of
ordinary humans to decide what looks dodgy and
then feed their evaluations and those videos to the
AI, so it could learn to recognise what dodgy looks
like. That raised a fundamental question: What is
“borderline” content? It’s one thing to ask random
people to identify an image of a cat or a crosswalk –
something a Trump supporter, a Black Lives Matter
To creaTe an aI
activist, and even a QAnon adherent could all agree classifier ThaT
on. But if they wanted their human evaluators to
recognise something subtler – like whether a video can recognise
on Freemasons is a study of the group’s history or
a fantasy about how they secretly run government borderline video
today – they would need to provide guidance.
YouTube assembled a team to figure this out. Many
conTenT, you need
of its members came from the policy department, To Train The aI wiTh
which creates and continually updates the rules about
the content YouTube bans outright. They developed a many Thousands
set of about three dozen questions designed to help a
human decide whether content moved significantly in
of examples. To
the direction of those banned areas, but didn’t quite geT Those Training
videos, youTube
get there.
These questions were, in essence, the wireframe
of the human judgement that would become the AI’s
smarts. These hidden inner workings were listed on
asked hundreds of
Rohe’s screen. They allowed me to take notes but ordinary humans
wouldn’t give me a copy to take away.
One question asks whether a video appears to To decide whaT
“encourage harmful or risky behaviour to others” or to
viewers themselves. To help narrow down what type of
looks dodgy
content constitutes “harmful or risky behaviour,” there
is a set of check boxes pointing out various well-known results were subject to the “wisdom of a group,” as
self-harms YouTube has grappled with – like “pro ana” Goodrow put it. Any videos with medical subjects were
videos that encourage anorexic behaviours, or graphic rated by a team of doctors, not laypeople.
images of self-harm. This diversity among the evaluators’ views can pose
“If you start by just asking, ‘Is this harmful problems for training the AI, though. If evaluators
misinformation?’ then everybody has a different are too divided over whether a video is deceptive
definition of what’s harmful,” Goodrow said. “But then or factually misleading, then their responses won’t
you say, ‘OK, let’s try to move it more into the concrete, provide a clear signal. As Woojin Kim, a vice president
specific realm by saying, is it about self-harm? What of product management, pointed out, “If we’re talking
kinds of harm is it?’ Then you tend to get higher about a contentious political topic, where you do have
agreement and better results.” There’s also an open- multiple perspectives... Those would oftentimes end up
ended box that an evaluator can write in to explain being marked not as borderline content.” When the AI
their thinking. classifier was trained on those examples, it absorbed the
Another question asks the evaluators to determine same divided mentality. If it encountered a new video
whether a video is “intolerant of a group” based on race, with the same characteristics, it would, metaphorically,
religion, sexual orientation, gender, national origin or shrug and not classify it as borderline either.
veteran status. But there’s a supplementary question: The evaluators processed tens of thousands of
“Is the video satire?” YouTube’s policies prohibit hate videos, enough for YouTube engineers to begin training
speech and spreading lies about ethnic groups, for the system. The AI would take data from the human
example, but they can permit content that mocks that evaluations – that a video called “Moon Landing Hoax
behaviour by mimicking it. – Wires Footage” is an “unsubstantiated conspiracy
Rohe pointed to another category, one that asks theory,” for example – and learn to associate it with
whether a video is “inaccurate, misleading, or features of that video: the text under the title that the
deceptive.” It then goes on to ask the evaluator to creator uses to describe the video (“We can see the
check all the possible categories of factual nonsense wires, people!”); the comments (“It’s 2017 and people
that might apply, like “unsubstantiated conspiracy still believe in moon landings... help... help”); the
theories”, “demonstratively inaccurate information”, transcript (“the astronaut is getting up with the wire
“deceptive content”, “urban legend”, “fictional story taking the weight”); and, especially, the title. The visual
or myth”, or “contradicts well-established expert content of the video itself, interestingly, often wasn’t a
consensus”. The evaluators each spend about five very useful signal. As with videos about virtually any
minutes assessing each video, on top of the time it topic, misinformation is often conveyed by someone
takes to watch it, and are encouraged to do research to simply speaking to the camera or (as with Sargent’s
help understand its context. flat-earth material) over a procession of static images.
Rohe and Goodrow said they had tried to reduce Another useful training feature for the AI was “co-
potential bias among the human evaluators by choosing watches”, or the fare users typically watch before or
people who were diverse in terms of age, geography, after the video in question. In a sense, it was a measure
gender and race. They also made sure each video was of the company a video keeps. If National Geographic
rated by up to nine separate evaluators so that the posts a video titled “Round Earth vs. Flat Earth,”
145
an AI might recognise it as having words very similar to ‘debunking’ those instead?” one comment noted in
a flat-earth video. But the co-watches would likely be an February of this year. “Oh yes, youtubes algorithm is
interview with the astrophysicist Neil deGrasse Tyson or smashing it for them,” another replied.
a scientist’s TED talk, while a flat-earth conspiracy video Then there’s the academic research. Berkeley
might pair with a rant on the CIA’s UFO cover-up. professor Hany Farid and his team found that
The AI classifier does not produce a binary answer; the frequency with which YouTube recommended
it doesn’t say whether a video is or isn’t “borderline”. conspiracy videos began to fall significantly in early
Instead, it generates a score, a mathematical weight 2019, precisely when YouTube was beginning its
that represents how likely the video is to approach the updates. By early 2020, his analysis found, those
borderline. That weight is incorporated into the overall recommendations had gone down from a 2018 peak
recommendation AI and becomes one of the many signals by 40 per cent. Farid noticed that some channels
used when recommending the video to a particular user. weren’t merely reduced; they all but vanished from
recommendations. Indeed, before YouTube made its
switch, he’d found that 10 channels – including that
In January 2019, of David Icke, the British writer who argues that
I
YouTube began reptilians walk among us – comprised 20 per cent of all
rolling out the conspiracy recommendations (as Farid defines them);
system. That’s afterward, he found that recommendations for those
when Mark Sargent sites “basically went to zero.”
noticed his flat- Another study that somewhat backs up YouTube’s
earth views take claims was conducted by the computer scientist
a nosedive. Other Mark Ledwich and Anna Zaitsev, a postdoctoral
types of content scholar and lecturer at Berkeley. They analysed
were getting down- YouTube recommendations, looking specifically at
ranked, too, like moon-landing conspiracies or videos 816 political channels and categorising them into
perseverating on chemtrails. Over the next few months, different ideological groups such as “Partisan Left”,
Goodrow and Rohe pushed out more than 30 refinements “Libertarian” and “White Identitarian”. They found
to the system that they say increased its accuracy. By that YouTube recommendations mostly now guide
the summer, YouTube was publicly declaring success: It viewers of political content to the mainstream. The
had reduced by 50 per cent the watch time of borderline channels they grouped under “Social Justice”, on the
content that came from recommendations. By December, far left, lost a third of their traffic to mainstream
it reported a reduction of 70 per cent. sources like CNN; conspiracy channels and most on
The company won’t release its internal data, so it’s the reactionary right – like “White Identitarian” and
impossible to confirm the accuracy of its claims. But “Religious Conservative” – saw the majority of their
there are several outside indications that the system traffic slough off to commercial right-wing channels,
has had an effect. One is that consumers and creators of with Fox News being the hugest beneficiary.
borderline stuff complain that their favourite material If Zaitsev and Ledwich’s analysis of YouTube
is rarely boosted any more. “Wow has anybody else “mainstreaming” traffic holds up – and it’s certainly
noticed how hard it is to find ‘Conspiracy Theory’ stuff a direction that YouTube itself endorses – it would
on YouTube lately? And that you easily find videos fit into a historic pattern. As law professor Tim Wu
noted in his book The Master Switch, new media tend
to start out in a Wild West, then clean up, put on a
suit and consolidate in a cautious centre. Radio, for
example, began as a chaos of small operators proud
to say anything, then gradually coagulated into a
small number of mammoth networks aimed mostly at
pleasing the mainstream.
For critics like Farid, though, YouTube has not gone
far enough, quickly enough. “Shame on YouTube,” he
told me. “It was only after how many years of this
nonsense did they finally respond? After public pressure
just got to be so much they couldn’t deal with it.”
Even the executives who set up the new “reduce”
system told me it wasn’t perfect. Which makes
some critics wonder: Why not just shut down the
recommendation system entirely? Micah Schaffer, the
former YouTube employee, says, “At some point, if you
can’t do this responsibly, you need to not do it.”
As another former YouTube employee noted,
determined creators are adept at gaming any system
YouTube puts up, like “the velociraptor and the fence.”
Still, the system appeared to be working, mostly. News Network uploaded a video claiming that Fauci
It was a real, if modest, improvement. But then the was a “criminal”, that coronavirus was a false-flag
floodgates opened again. As the winter of 2020 turned operation to impose “mandatory vaccines”, and that
into a spring of pandemic, a summer of activism, and if anyone refused to be vaccinated, they’d be “shot
another norm-shattering election season, it looked as in the head”. It racked up nearly 7 million views in
if the recommendation engine might be the least of two weeks, before YouTube finally took it down. Then
YouTube’s problems. came ever more unhinged uploads, including the
infamous “Plandemic” video – alleging a conspiracy to
push a vaccine – or the so-called “white coat summit”
A month of July 27, in which a group of doctors assembled
A
after I visited in front of the Supreme Court to falsely claim that
YouTube, the hydroxychloroquine could cure Covid and that masks
new coronavirus were unnecessary.
pandemic was YouTube was playing a by-now familiar game of
in full swing. It social media whack-a-mole. A video that violated
had itself become YouTube’s rules would emerge and rapidly gain views,
a fertile field for then YouTube would take it down. But it wasn’t clear
new conspiracy that recommendations were key to these sudden viral
theories. Videos spikes. On August 14, a 90-minute video by Millie
claimed that 5G towers caused Covid-19; Mark Sargent Weaver, a contributor to the far-right conspiracist
had interrupted his flat-earth musings to upload a few site Infowars, went online, filled with claims of a deep
videos in which he said the pandemic lockdown was state arrayed against President Trump. It was linked
an ominous preparation for social control. He told me and shared in a number of right-wing circles. Dozens
the government would use a vaccine to inject everyone of Reddit threads passed it on (“Watch it before it’s
with an invisible mark, and “then it goes to the whole gone,” one redditor wrote), and it was shared more
Christian mark of the beast,” the prophecy from the than 53,000 times on Facebook, as well as on scores
Book of Revelations. of right-wing YouTube channels, including by many
On March 30, I talked to Mohan again, but this time followers of QAnon, one of the fastest-growing – and
on Google Hangouts. He was ensconced in a wood- most dangerous – conspiracy theories in the nation.
panelled room at his home, clad in a blue polo shirt, YouTube took it down a day later, saying it violated
while the faint sounds of his children echoed from its hate-speech rules. But within that 24 hours, it
elsewhere in the house. amassed over a million views.
YouTube, he told me, had been moving aggressively This old-fashioned spread – a mix of organic
to clamp down on disinformation about the pandemic link-sharing and astroturfed, bot-propelled promotion
and to counteract it. The platform created an “info – is powerful and, say observers, may sideline any
panel” to run under any video mentioning Covid-19, changes to YouTube’s recommendation system. It
linking to the Centers for Disease Control and other also suggests that users are adapting and that the
global and local health officials. By late August, these recommendation system may be less important, for
panels had received more than 300 billion impressions. good and ill, to the spread of misinformation today.
YouTube had been removing videos with dangerous In a study for the think tank Data & Society, the
“medical” information every day, including those researcher Becca Lewis mapped out the galaxy of
promoting “harmful cures,” as Mohan says, and videos right-wing commentators on YouTube who routinely
telling people to flout stay-at-home rules. To raise up spread borderline material. Many of those creators,
useful information, the company arranged for several she says, have built their often massive audiences not
popular YouTubers to interview Anthony Fauci, only through YouTube recommendations, but also via
the director of the National Institute of Allergy and networking. In their videos, they’ll give shout-outs
Infectious Diseases who had become a regular presence to one another and hype each other’s work, much
on TV and a voice of scientific reason. as YouTubers all enthusiastically promoted Millie
Mohan had also been meeting with YouTube’s “intel Weaver’s fabricated musings.
desk”, whose researchers had been trying to root out the “If YouTube completely took away the
latest Covid conspiracies. Goodrow and Rohe would use recommendations algorithm tomorrow, I don’t think
those videos to help update their AI classifier at least the extremist problem would be solved. Because
once a week, so it could help down-rank new strains of they’re just entrenched,” Lewis tells me. “These people
borderline Covid content. have these intense fandoms at this point. I don’t know
But even as we spoke, YouTube videos with wild- what the answer is.”
eyed claims were being uploaded and amassing views. One of the former Google engineers I spoke to
An American chiropractor named John Bergman got agreed: “Now that society is so polarised, I’m not sure
more than a million views for videos suggesting that YouTube alone can do much,” as the engineer noted.
hand sanitiser didn’t work and urging people to use “People who have been radicalised over the past few
essential oils and vitamin C to treat the contagion. years aren’t getting unradicalised. The time to do this
On April 16, a conspiracy channel named the Next was years ago.”
147
SNEAKERS
BY PRADA
148
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149
BAG BY
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BOOTS BY
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151
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152
BAG BY
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153
Inside Beirut’s Broken
A young
volunteer
named Ahmad,
working for
a Palestinian
association,
takes a break
to pray in Mar
Mikhael
After the catastrophic blast of August 4 – one of the largest recorded explosions
in human history – Beirut was coming to terms with an unbearable trauma. In the days
that followed, Nasri Atallah grappled with his country’s past, present and future
P H O T O G R A P H E D B Y M Y R I A M B O U L O S
o be Lebanese is to be broken-hearted. I went to my favourite barber shop, Mario’s, a few

You learn that early on. For three weeks miles away. The shop was quieter than usual, pitter-
in Lebanon during late July and early patter muffled by our masks. Lebanon was about to
August, I spent a lot of time being go back into full lockdown the following day, and the
heartbroken. Like many in the diaspora, I had been embarrassingly vain amongst us wanted to be confined
witnessing the deepening and overlapping crises in the with a well-groomed beard. I called my wife, Nour, in
country from an uncomfortable distance. By the time I London as I left. I couldn’t figure out if I should stay
was in Beirut in mid-July, the financial freefall which in Beirut where I was due to meet a friend for coffee,
had led the currency to devalue by 80 per cent and or head to my parents’ place a few miles up into the
frozen life savings in the banks was all anyone could hills to drop off my laptop, putting a formal end to the
think or talk about. No one had time for coronavirus, workday. “Go sit with your mum a bit, she’ll enjoy that,”
or any other of the world’s concerns. People spent their Nour said wisely.
days juggling four different exchange rates, figuring It was a little before 6pm when we sat outside. The
out how to get essentials, how to feed their kids. Many breeze was crisp and generous, a welcome interruption
friends were quietly figuring out how they might get to the suffocation and humidity further down in the
themselves out of the country in a few months, once city. My mum sat in the lotus position on her chair,
they’d scraped enough cash together. flipping through an interior design magazine – both
By the time Tuesday, August 4, came around, things she has done for as long as I can remember,
Lebanon had begun to exhaust me. The heat and the dog-earing pages she never comes back to. The
sadness, I didn’t know how to navigate them anymore. breeze made its way through the jasmine and orange
I left our new offices on the Beirut Waterfront, less blossoms, the smell hitting us both at the same time.
than a mile from the port, earlier than normal. It was “It’s impossible how nice that smells!” we both say
an inconvenience. We had just moved in the day before. at the same time through a dramatic inhale. The
The new office signalled a coming-of-age, moving from coordination confirmed my suspicions that I have been
the informal setting of one of our flats, to this all-glass slowly turning into my mother.
box by the shimmering Mediterranean. But the power Then, 6:08pm. The world tore apart. The steady,
generators needed to be shut down at 5pm, so we called sustained roar of what felt like a million thunders
it a day. shook us in our seats, before cracking into the loudest
155
sound I will ever hear. It made its way through the tree I can hear screaming around him. I have been
leaves, the terracotta tiles on the roof in front of us, the pacing too much to look at the television. My
concrete of the walls, the windows, our bones, our souls. experience of the disaster is still only auditory. My first
We both stumbled out of our chairs. We almost hit thought when my father tells me he is in a car with
the floor, unsure if the blast had done it, or whether a stranger is, “I hope they’re all wearing facemasks.”
we just couldn’t find our footing. We scrambled to It seems, now, a futile thought. The building my father
get indoors. was in caved in all around him. He survived one of the
“They’ve hit us,” said my mum. At that moment, most powerful explosions in human history, less than
it could only mean one thing. We were under attack. a mile from its epicentre, and I was worried about
We entered into the carefully rehearsed choreography social distancing.
familiar to everyone who has ever lived through war Days later, during one of my sleepless nights, I
– move away from the windows, put your shoes on, would stumble across security footage on Instagram
grab your things, figure out what is going on before the from the building he was in. I would see my father
phone lines go silent, head to the basement. being led out calmly and slowly by a young journalist
I kept repeating “Ya ‘aadra” (oh Virgin Mary) over and I would cry gently into my darkened living room.
and over again. Even as the fear started to take over As we waited for my father to get home, we also
my body, I thought it was odd that I had chosen this waited for another bomb. Which is what we still
mantra. I started doubting my agnosticism as I darted thought this was. I became convinced my mother and
around the flat. I would repeat it, as if possessed, for I would die up in those hills, that my father would die
the next hour. on the road back to us. I thought of my sister in Paris,
I started trying to call my father as I ran towards how I texted her, “We’re fine,” to buy us time to find my
the other side of the house. From there, I had a vantage dad before we brought her into our nightmare. I kept
point over the city. I sent a WhatsApp voice note to my sending breathless WhatsApp voice notes to my wife,
wife. Through my shallow, panicked breaths you could keeping her with me while I made sense of everything.
just about make out the words, “Hey hayete (my life). Of course, now all indications are that this was
There’s been a huge explosion. We’re home, we’re OK. not an act of war. Or at least not the act of war
I’m trying to figure out what it was. Call your parents.” we were expecting. Maybe this time there will be
To be Lebanese is to be broken-hearted. an investigation that will eventually tell us what
I looked towards the airport, nothing. Odd. I happened. This explosion, which some estimate to be
wondered what they had hit. My eyes darted across the fourth biggest in human history after Hiroshima,
the horizon. I saw a tower of smoke above the port. I Halifax and Oppau, was the result of a kind of reckless
felt my heart might stop. I wanted to rip my chest out. and wilful neglect that has been hard for people who
I thought I would be calmer in a crisis. I’m ashamed. I aren’t familiar with Lebanon to grasp. Two thousand
try to hide this from my mother. seven hundred tonnes of ammonium nitrate had been
The seconds feel like hours. My father, who was in stored unsafely in hangar 12 at the port for years, a
the An-Nahar newspaper offices less than a mile from hop and a skip away from some of the capital’s most
the port, finally picks up. I realise he’s in shock. vibrant and densely populated streets. In the days
“I’m in a car with some strangers heading to Tripoli. after the blast, people would share more facts about
I don’t know what’s going on.” ammonium nitrate than I ever wanted to know.
157
wonder if anyone has slept since August 4?
How Germany only allows 25 tonnes of ammonium Will any of us sleep again? Maybe if we sleep,
nitrate to be stored in one place, for instance. We had we’ll forget what happened. Maybe if we stay
2,750 tonnes, in the heart of Beirut, for seven years. A awake, the world can still see us.
Damoclean sword hanging over two million people as For a week after the explosion, I cried at everything.
they went about their lives – stuck in traffic, fumbling It felt like my nerve endings weren’t on the outside of
through a first date, coming home from school, sitting my body, it felt like they were extending away from
on the balcony with their grandchildren. me – like the filaments in those plasma globes I used to
As the images of the aftermath started to fill my be fascinated by as a kid. Clear glass balls with bolts of
various screens, what had been so real that I thought light extending from an electrode to the glass edges to
I was going to die an hour earlier became out-of-body meet your fingers.
and impossible to grasp. Everyone walking around Everything made me cry. My obsessive re-watching
with blood streaming down their faces, others already of the explosion from different angles. Angelique telling
bandaged, everyone disorientated. A city of the the story of how a stranger carried her from hospital to
walking dead. hospital until she could get the care she needed after
For days, the shuffle of broken glass along the she was hit in the face by a shard of glass. A child born
pavements and inside homes was the soundtrack of the in a destroyed hospital, another child dying. Tributes to
city. A friend texts me to ask if he is still alive. In the people who had died who I had had drinks with many
following weeks I would see this a lot: people unsure if years ago, Krystel and Jean-Marc. People I didn’t really
they were dead or alive. As if we had somehow all been know but who I did know in the way everyone in Beirut
dragged into purgatory together. knows everyone. News stories about the firefighters
To be Lebanese is to be broken-hearted. who had been sent towards certain death, told they
We entered into the carefully
rehearsed choreography
familiar to everyone who has
ever lived through war – move
away from the windows, put
your shoes on, grab your things,
figure out what is going on
before the phone lines go silent
were putting out a fire in a wheat storage unit. Two effluence of competing sound systems streaming out
barmen at Torino Express, my favourite dive, standing onto the thousands of revellers amassed on the narrow
in the rubble of a place I called a second home for pavement. Now, in the ruins of these areas, there was
many years. A beautiful triple-arched home without its also a flattening of social structures.
arches. A classic Mercedes caved in on itself. The range To be Lebanese is to be broken-hearted. Every time
of things that were making me cry made no sense. my father watches the news for days after the blast, he
There was no hierarchy. has the same expression of disbelief.
The Lebanese art historian Gregory Buchakjian “I was there,” he says to no one in particular.
has been writing the same sentence on his Instagram How do we ever process this? Can the human heart
stories for two weeks: “We are not well.” In an interview process this and survive? In the days after the blast
with CNN Style, he talks about the material cost I have nightmares of shattering glass raining down
of the explosion. Beyond the hundreds of dead, the on me, a hail of translucent shards. I was seven miles
thousands of injured and the estimations of the cost away when it happened, and these are my nightmares.
of reconstruction, he expresses what these buildings I think of Lama, Joy, Karim, Melanie, Charbel, Rabih,
actually mean to us, the people who care about Beirut. Kamal, Zeyn. Countless others. What must be in their
“I would describe this as a cataclysm,” he says. nightmares? The blast blew through our lives and now
“As something completely apocalyptic.” I never it blows through the little sleep we can find shelter in.
thought I would find myself crying at a video on a A couple of days after the blast, I am scheduled to
lifestyle channel. “The reconstruction is not only a return to London. It feels impossible to get on a flight.
reconstruction of the stones. It is a reconstruction of the But Nour is in London. She has been processing all
hearts, of the minds of the people,” he says. of this alone. The destruction of her parents’ home,
The areas obliterated by the blast, along the my panicked voice messages, all our friends’ lives
eastern edge of the capital, were not uncomplicated shattered. I ask friends what I should do. They tell me
places. Gemmayze, Mar Mikhael, Karantina and to go home and be with my wife. Since I’ve been back, I
Geitawi were all places that had been in the grip of an have been sleeping in the living room to avoid waking
exponential gentrification drive in the past 15 years. Nour up with my nightmares.
They had already seen long-time residents edged- One of them wakes me up at 5am. I scroll through
out by the upwardly mobile middle-class working Twitter and see a post by the author Lina Mounzer.
in the creative industries, among others. Car repair I am happy she is OK. Her writing has been one of
shops sat side by side with hipster burger joints and the few joys in recent months. I haven’t been able to
art galleries. Like much in Beirut, it was a senseless text the hundreds of people I know who have been
cacophony, visual and auditory. None of it made much affected. So I text her as soon as I see this new piece
sense, but it was electric. of writing. We exchange the usual round of wishes.
The short stretch of street between two bars – “Hope everyone you know is alive and well.” “You too.”
Floyd the Dog to Radio Beirut – looked like a post- I decide to tell her how guilty I feel to have left Beirut.
apocalyptic rave in Mad Max on most Saturdays, the She tells me I shouldn’t feel guilty, those who are guilty
159
are those who have put me in this impossible situation.
That even though I have survived and left, the debris
A friend texts
from this blast lives inside me forever.
“What should you feel guilty for? That you can me to ask if he is
physically leave but never emotionally leave? No, no.
They’re the ones who should feel guilty for doing this
to you.”
still alive. In the
I know who “they” are. You know who ‘they’ are.
Her message gives me permission, for the first time following weeks
since August 4, to sob. Not just cry quietly. But tear the
universe open with a howling cry. I shake violently on
the sofa as the early morning light cuts through the
I would see this
blinds. I end up waking Nour anyway.
To be Lebanese is to be broken-hearted. a lot: people
unsure if they
were dead or
he day after the blast, I went down
alive. As if we had
to the seafront to try and find my
dad’s car. It was parked in front of
the An-Nahar building. It looked
all been dragged
ludicrous, parked neatly amongst the devastation. The
windshield had shattered and the roof had caved in.
into purgatory
together
I beeped it open, an improbable, mundane action to
unlock a vehicle that looked like it had been abandoned
for 50 years rather than one night. I wore gloves to
open the door and pick away at the glass on the roof;
the same latex gloves that were best suited to light
household chores, and which I had convinced myself simple walk had become terrorising. The 1998 Range
were a barrier against the coronavirus in March, were Rover over there looks parked by a low wall, so if I walk
now meant to protect me against ammonium nitrate. behind the wall, I might survive if it blows up, would go
As the days went by, the mundane pressed up my macabre internal monologue on the walk to work.
against the out-of-scale tragedy the whole city was Every single vehicle was suspect and dangerous. I lived
living through. I kept checking my step count. Even in anticipation of being torn to shreds.
though my whole body ached from something I found Andrew Arsan’s recent but already seminal history
out was “acute stress response”, I still cared about of the country, Lebanon: A Country in Fragments, is
getting my 10,000 steps in. I Googled, “Can you run out 500 pages of beautifully written prose, but everything
of tears?” (Short answer: no, not if your lacrimal glands you need to know is on page one of the introduction.
are healthy.) I frantically researched ammonium Since 2005, the country has had three presidents, 34
nitrate, this new thing I had to hate. I text a friend, she months without a president at all, six prime ministers,
tells me she’s unsure if she’s dead or not. a war with Israel, 48 bombings, 21 assassinations
A man tweets at the UN Secretary General, who and assassination attempts, a refugee crisis, a conflict
has just called the Lebanese resilient, “Bonjour Antonio with the Islamic State in the northeast, an unresolved
habibi, I don’t want to be resilient anymore.” This is trash crisis and the fourth-largest explosion in human
a common refrain. Our much-vaunted resilience has history. These are not all the things we have been
become a curse. through since the beginning of the 20th century. These
Lebanon’s myth of resilience is rooted in its long are all the things we have been through since Gwen
history of, amongst other maledictions, bombings. Stefani’s “Hollaback Girl” was in the charts.
Everyone has a vernacular, a lexicon around explosions. These traumas are added to the death by a
“That was bigger than the Hariri bombing,” “That thousand cuts of the many daily injustices people
feels like a small shell,” “That’s too small to be a car living in Lebanon face: unequal rights, everyday
bomb,” and other such sentences which we have come corruption, power cuts, one of the world’s worst internet
to consider normal. I mentioned this to my therapist connections, water shortages and so on. When I read
once – in the leafy North London borough we were that page in Andrew’s book, I wondered how any of us
in – and she was visibly shocked by how normalised had survived at all. How hardened, how calloused we
dealing with these things was for me. There was a time were by so much violence and misery.
around a wave of bombings in 2012 to 2013 when a To be Lebanese is to be broken-hearted.
160
“
f Beirut hadn’t been destroyed, we wouldn’t streets being shot at in rage-fuelled protests. How
have discovered anything,” says Abu Naji, nothing makes sense. How I re-watch the video of the
gesturing to ancient ruins in the heart explosion on different news sites, to make sure that
of the city as he smokes a cigarette in everyone else can see it too.
Lebanese director Ghassan Salhab’s 2002 film Terra She tells me it sounds like I am talking of something
Incognita. “Seven times dead, seven times risen,” he that, “felt like an ending”. Absurdly, I hadn’t thought
continues, wistful. Carol Abboud’s Soraya responds, of it as an ending. But now that the word has been
“We didn’t rise, she did,” with a finality that feels fitting floated, I repeat it to myself. An ending, an ending. The
two decades later. Just as the earth will survive climate end of what, I am still unsure. More importantly, I’m
change and we will disappear, maybe Beirut will not sure what it is the beginning of either.
survive as we evaporate. The language around our collective trauma is still
My therapist had been on holiday during August. emerging. We repeat each other’s sentences in our
She emailed me the day of the blast. When a French social media posts. But we don’t know how to talk
person emails you during their August vacation, you about this yet. Or write about it. Myriam, whose
know something cataclysmic has happened. When poignant photos accompany this article, told me it is
we eventually got to speak again, I didn’t know more important to document everything we feel right
where to start. I told her about the nightmares, now, rather than to be aesthetic or well-executed.
the sleeplessness, my father, my friends. I told her The witnessing is the important part. There are
how I see broken windows in London now, where no answers. All we have now are questions. To be
there aren’t any. I told her about all my friends who Lebanese has always been to be broken-hearted. Can
are giving up, those who just want to repair their we hope that that is what has come to an end with this,
windows and leave the country. Those who are in the the biggest heartbreak of all?
161
EDITORS
AT HOME
EDITORS
AT HOME
EDITORS
AT HOME
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As you get ready to celebrate the festive Chronograph wristwatch from the
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lend your traditional looks an edge by smart, sophisticated design, with
accessorising with jewellery from Platinum an 18-carat white gold case that
Guild International – India’s latest Men of features an openwork dial complete
Platinum collection. Consider this statement with a lacquered blue inner bezel,
kada – designed for men of substance blued 18-carat white gold hands,
and character, it comes in a bold yet sleek and a hand-stitched “large square-
design, with platinum cuboids stacked tightly scale” blue alligator strap. The
together, making it versatile enough to pair highlight? Quite undeniably, the flying
with any look. tourbillon, which makes an impactful
Price on request. For more information appearance at 6 o’clock.
on the latest Men of Platinum collection, For more information, visit
visit menofplatinum.com audemarspiguet.com

HUMOUR
INGREDIENTS
Word Salad Recipe for Your  Three to four sentence
starters. These will form
the base of your corporate
Upcoming Corporate Meeting word salad.
Positive adjectives – look
for long ones, and variety
a
big, jargon-laden word salad is the best way to satiate is key.
employees starved for information. It’s quick, it’s easy and it  Data – can be cooked
has become a staple of any corporate meeting. Whether you’re several days ahead of time.
an overwhelmed CEO or a lacklustre middle manager, you’ll Rhetorical questions.
find yourself returning to this recipe again and again.  Action items –
homemade is best, but
they can be bought from a
Step 2: consulting firm in a pinch.
Simmer the
specifics until
reduced by half.
Step 1:
Create a
dense base
of sentence
starters.
Artfully
arrange
them to
ensure
variety.
Mix in rhetorical questions. Step 3:

This is a cheap way to add
Step 4: density to your salad.
Toss in the data.
Make sure to trim
off any context.
Only add in data
that enhances the
flavour of your
company’s success.
Step 6:
Step 5:
ILLUSTRATION: NATASHA VAYNBLAT, ELLIE SKRZAT
Serve with
action items.
Toss with positive
adjectives until
each statement is
evenly coated with
an optimistic glaze.

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INDIA

THE REINVENTION 24 Ed’s letter

ULTIMATE OF ABHISHEK 26 Contributors

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(Below) From Antraal, 2019

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