Research Center for

Global Workers’
REPORT CenterRights
for Global Workers’
(CGWR)
Rights (CGWR)

October 16, 2020

Leveraging Desperation:
Apparel Brands’ Purchasing Practices during Covid-19
Mark Anner, Ph.D., Director, Center for Global Workers’ Rights
in Association with the Worker Rights Consortium

Executive Summary

It has been seven months since the Covid-19 pandemic upended global garment supply chains, as buyers abruptly
– and retroactively – canceled orders, and suppliers and workers’ rights organizations called foul and demanded
payment in full. In the ensuing months, many (but not all) buyers felt obligated to reinstate orders and honor other
original contract obligations.

The questions explored in this report are related to the purchasing practices of brands and retailers as they place
new orders with suppliers during the continued Covid-19 pandemic.

With many apparel suppliers facing sharply reduced sales and with many already reeling financially from the fail-
ure of some buyers to honor pre-pandemic contractual obligations, how are brands responding to their business
partners’ distressed circumstances? Are they treating suppliers fairly? Or are brands and retailers taking advantage
of suppliers’ desperation to extract price discounts and other concessions?

Also, how are current trends in order volume and pricing affecting the viability of suppliers? What will be the im-
pact on the tens of millions of workers who sew apparel for their livelihood?

To answer these questions, this report examines the findings from a new survey of apparel suppliers conducted
during July and August of 2020. It also draws on recent trade data, interviews with stakeholders, quarterly financial
reports, and other sources.

The results are alarming. A large majority of suppliers surveyed reported that brands have demanded price dis-
counts substantially larger than the year-over-year reductions they typically seek. As a result, over half reported that
they are being forced to accept prices for orders that are below the cost of production. Suppliers also reported that
many customers have imposed payment schedules that will require suppliers to wait additional weeks or months
to be paid for their work, in an industry where payment terms are already severely skewed in favor of buyers. In
sum, the survey results indicated that many brands and retailers are treating their suppliers’ increasing desperation
as a source of bargaining leverage.

The survey also showed that these financial pressures threaten the viability of many apparel suppliers and are likely
to cause, or have already caused, large-scale dismissals of workers.

Key Findings from the Supplier Survey

◆ 65% of suppliers reported that buyers have demanded price cuts on new orders that are bigger than the
year-over-year reductions buyers usually ask for.

◆ On average, buyers have told suppliers they must cut prices by 12%, relative to last year’s price for the same product.

◆ As a result, 56% of suppliers have been forced to accept some orders below cost, and the majority anticipate
having to continue to do so.

◆ On average, suppliers surveyed will have to wait 77 days after they complete and ship customers’ new or-
ders, to receive payment. Before the pandemic, the average was 43 days.

◆ Pre-pandemic, only 34% of buyers took 60 days or longer, after shipment, to pay suppliers. Now, 66% are
imposing 60-day or longer payment terms. Before the pandemic, payment terms of 120 days or longer
were extremely rare. Now, one in four buyers has imposed such terms.

◆ A majority of suppliers said they have less than half the order volume now relative to the same period last year.

◆ As a result of lost volume and more onerous prices and payment terms, 57% of suppliers reported that, if
current patterns continue, it is extremely likely or somewhat likely that they will be forced out of business.

◆ 75% of suppliers reported that they have had to cut workers’ hours as a result of buyer purchasing practices
during the pandemic, with approximately one quarter of suppliers cutting working time by over 25%.

◆ On average, suppliers have dismissed 10% of their workers. They anticipate dismissing another 35% of
their workers if current trends (order volume and price reductions; delayed payments) continue. With
an estimated 35 million workers in the global garment export sector at the start of the year, the potential
implication of this finding could be enormous.

◆ 34% of suppliers reported that buyers have given them no shipment date flexibility to allow for needed
social distancing adjustments within factories. Another 51% said buyers have showed some flexibility, but
not enough.

◆ Suppliers reported that when the pandemic disruptions first hit earlier in the year, 77% had at least some of
their orders canceled without payment from buyers. Currently, only 27% of these same suppliers say all or
most of their orders have been paid in full.

Leveraging Desperation l page 2

Recommendations

The research findings outlined above show why it is imperative that brands and retailers improve their behavior in
this crisis and act responsibly toward suppliers and workers.

◆ Brands that have not paid for their orders that were in production at the outset of the pandemic must make
their suppliers whole without further delay.1

◆ Brands should not use suppliers’ financial stress in the pandemic as bargaining leverage to further squeeze
them on price. This will force some suppliers out of business and many more workers out of their jobs.

◆ Timely payment by brands for completed orders is paramount for the health of the industry and the well-
being of workers who rely on the timely payment of their wages. Brands must cease using their supply
chain power to further delay payment terms.

◆ While speed-to-market has long been a mantra of global garment supply chains, currently many suppli-
ers need extra time to meet shipment deadlines as they make adjustments for social distancing and other
pandemic-related workplace changes. The Covid-19 pandemic is not the time to strictly apply late ship-
ment fees on suppliers. Worker health must be given priority over speed-to-market considerations.

◆ Brands have long boasted that outsourcing to developing countries creates jobs for low-income workers,
especially young women. Many of these workers are now facing the prospect of economic destitution.
Brands should ensure that all workers who were making goods in their supply chains at the outset of the
pandemic receive their full regular income throughout the pandemic and that workers losing their jobs
receive their full legally-mandated severance.2

1
This recommendation follows our finding that only 27% of suppliers say all or most of their orders have been paid in full and prior
research. See: Mark Anner and Worker Rights Consortium, “Abandoned? The Impact of Covid-19 on Workers and Businesses at the Bot-
tom of Global Garment Supply Chains,” March 27, 2020. Worker Rights Consortium, “Who Will Bail out the Workers That Make Our
Clothes?,” March 2020.
2
See: Clean Clothes Campaign, “COVID-19 wage assurance,” 2020.

Leveraging Desperation l page 3

 Leveraging Desperation:
Apparel Brands’ Purchasing Practices during Covid-19
This report draws on a survey of garment suppliers con- Findings: Survey
ducted online between July 5 and August 21, 2020. The
75 suppliers who completed this survey were based in The survey began by asking suppliers for an update on
Bangladesh, Cambodia, Egypt, El Salvador, Ethiopia, whether originally canceled orders had been paid in
Guatemala, India, Indonesia, Kenya, Mexico, Myan- full. Only 27% of suppliers responded that all or most
mar, Nicaragua, Pakistan, Peru, and Vietnam. The larg- (more than 75%) of orders previously canceled orders
est number of respondents were based in Bangladesh. were now paid in full. In contrast, 47% indicated that
less than 25% of canceled orders have been paid in full.
In terms of factory size, 9% of the respondents were [See Figure 1.]
owners of small factories (1–250 workers), 35% were
owners of medium-sized factories (251–750 workers), Order volume going forward was a major concern for
and 56% had factories with more than 750 workers. suppliers. 52% of suppliers said they have less than 50%
45% reported producing fashion basic apparel, 24% of the volume relative to this time last year. 33% indicated
made fast fashion (high fashion content) apparel, 8% they are operating with between 51% and 75% of order
reported making personal protective equipment, and volume. Only 1% of suppliers indicated that they have
the remainder made a mix of goods, including sweaters. more orders now relative to last year. [See Figure 2.]

The survey data provided insights on current trends The problem going forward for many suppliers is not
and was complemented with insights from trade data, only a reduction in order volume, but also a reduction
phone interviews with suppliers, reviews of quarterly in prices relative to what buyers paid for the same prod-
reports of publicly traded companies, recent research ucts last year. 56% of suppliers indicated that buyers are
reports, and news media publications. imposing ‘discounts’ (price reductions) on new orders,

Share of Canceled Orders Now Paid in Full

All canceled orders paid i n full 15%

Between 76 and 99% paid in full 12%

Between 51% and 75% paid in full 12%

Between 25% and 50% paid in full 15%

Less than 25% paid in full 47%

Source: Anner, Summer 2020 Supplier Survey.

Figure 1

Leveraging Desperation l page 4

 Comparison of Order Volume
(Summer 2019 to Summer 2020)

Very low, less than 25 % 19%

Low, between 25 % and 5 0% 33%

Medium, between 51% and 75% 33%

High, over 76% 14%

Very high, I have more orders now 1%

Source: Anner, Summer 2020 Supplier Survey.

Figure 2

Pricing Dynamics
65%
56%

44%
35%

Yes No Yes No
Price reductions Accepting orders
large than normal? below costs?
Source: Anner, Summer 2020 Supplier Survey.

Figure 3

and 65% of suppliers noted that these price reductions One supplier noted:
are more significant than normal year-to-year reduc-
tions. The average price reductions for all suppliers was On most items, certain buyers looked to get discounts
12%.3 56% of suppliers have been forced to accept at without a costing rationale, stating they suffered a loss of
least some of their orders below cost.4 [See Figure 3.] sales. If discounts were not given, they also advised future
business was at risk, all the while holding back current
These survey findings were reinforced by supplier re- payments due.
sponses to open-ended questions.

3
This average includes those reporting 0% reductions.
4
A supplier will accept an order below cost rather than have no orders at all in order to cover fixed monthly expenses such as building rent
and in order to have capital to purchase material for future orders.

Leveraging Desperation l page 5

Another supplier wrote: ers indicated that they would go out of business. For
Buyer Payment Terms (days)
small and medium-sized enterprises, this would be on
There has been an overall 35% average between two and three months. One critical
drop of prices throughout 30% factor emphasized by many suppliers was that the ex-
the value chain. Buyers are 25% tremely late payments by buyers have been so late that
demanding lowered prices 20%
they have inhibited their ability to get bank loans and
throughout the value chain pay for crucial raw materials needed to begin a new
15%
(i.e. fabric, print, stitch). production cycle.
10%

Going forward, suppliers 5% The survey also asked suppliers if buyers were allow-
reported that it is extremely 0% ing for flexibility in shipment dates as factories made
0 days 30 days 45 days 60 days 90 days 120 days 180 days
likely (25%) or somewhat June 2019 16% 31% 15% 19% 11% 3% 1%
likely (28%) that they will June 2020 4% 16% 7% 23% 18% 20% 5%
be forced to accept orders
Source: Anner, Summer 2020 Supplier Survey.
below cost in the coming
three months. In addition, Figure 4
70% of suppliers indicated
that buyers have also imposed longer payment terms. payments or getting paid sooner but then having to ac-
In 2019, most suppliers (65%) reported being paid by cept order discounts. They wrote:
buyers 30 or 45 days after orders were shipped. Cur-
rently, most suppliers (61%) reported being paid 60, Not all buyers [are demanding discounts], but mostly are of-
90, or even 120 days after order shipment. On average, fering 150 days to 180 days deferred payment terms. In that
in 2019, buyers paid suppliers 43 days after shipment, case, we have to take into account we might face 5% discount
whereas they have currently been paying suppliers 77 to get the payment promptly.
days after shipment. [See Figure 4.]
When asked if the continuation of adverse purchasing
One supplier explained how they have sometimes practices – smaller order volume, lower prices, and de-
been given the option of accepting greatly deferred layed payments – would increase the likelihood that
they would need to close
their business, 32% respond-
Likelihood of going out of business?
ed that it was ‘somewhat like-
ly’ and 25% indicated that it
Extremely unlikely 11% was ‘extremely likely’. [See
Figure 5.]
Somewhat unlikely 10%
If current low order volume,
Neither likel y nor unlikel y 21% price reductions, and late
payments continue, the sur-
Somewhat likely 32%
vey results showed that the
critical point for most facto-
ries was three to four months.
Extremely likel y 25%
That was when many suppli-

Figure 5

Leveraging Desperation l page 6

 Are buyers allowing for flexibility in terms of shipment
dates for Covid-related adjustments?

A lot of flexibilty, allowing the time as needed

to ship orders while making safety 15.28%
adjustments

Some flexibility, allowing for some more time

to ship orders but not enough 51.39%

No flexibility, late orders are subject to fines 20.83%

No flexibility, late orders are canceled 12.50%

Source: Anner, Summer 2020 Supplier Survey.

Figure 6

adjustments for social distancing. A common adjust- One supplier emphasized their positive experiences
ment, for example, would be to reduce the number of with buyers. They wrote:
workers per shift in order to provide more space be-
tween workers. Such adjustments could be expected In my work of line, by the grace of Allah, we have been able to
to impact order completion times. Suppliers respond- manage our progress as it was prior to Covid-19. In fact, this
ed that only 15% of buyers gave them the full flexibility has pushed us to come stronger with some new product ad-
they needed to make safety adjustments. 33% of buy- ditions in our product range. Our customers have also been
ers gave no flexibility. Rather, these buyers imposed extremely cooperative about it, and we are looking for even a
fines or canceled orders for any delays. [See Figure 6.] better time ahead.

One Indian supplier expressed their frustrations on But most suppliers detailed their frustrations with buy-
the overall situation in the following way: ers. One wrote:

Drop in prices, forced discounts, drop in order volume, de- There is no accountability of the brand on what they order. If
lays in payments: all these are happening with all the buy- they wish, they can cancel. This needs to change. Suppliers are
ers. In addition to this, all buyers want their goods on time. forced to air [ freight] goods if shipment deadlines are missed
We had 55 days shutdown in India. After shutdown, all or subject to discount. But there is no law that prevails where
the buyers wanted their goods immediately or else they say the buyer is mandated to buy whatever they have ordered.
they will cancel. It’s difficult to fulfill the orders with Covid Also, buyers do a due diligence on factory’s compliance, but
social norms. there is no due diligence on buyers’ activities.
 

Leveraging Desperation l page 7

Impact on Workers The Clean Clothes Campaign estimates that during
the months of March, April, and May 2020 garment
The impact on workers as a result of the purchasing workers already lost between USD 3.19 billion and
practices outlined above has already been devastating.5 USD 5.79 billion in wages.7 The survey results indi-
The survey results showed that, as factories re-opened cated that the potential loss of wages going forward
following lockdowns, most were not at full capacity; al- could be far greater.
most half of suppliers report-
ed that they have had to cut Percentage Reduction in Working Time
working hours ‘a moderate 27.40%
amount’, ‘significant amount’, 24.66% 24.66%
or ‘a lot’. 6 [See Figure 7.]
17.81%
A second step many sup-
pliers take prior to closure
is to reduce employment 5.48%
levels. By comparing em-
ployment levels in January
2020 to June 2020, the data None Less than 10% 10 to 25% 26 to 50% More than
50%
showed that 62% of suppli-
Source: Anner, Summer 2020 Supplier Survey.
ers reduced employment
levels, 26% maintained em- Figure 7
ployment levels, and 12%
increased employment levels. [See Figure 8.]
Employment Level, Jan. 1, 2020 to June 2020
Survey data indicated that there has already been a
10.1% decline in employment levels from January
2020 to June 2020. Going forward, suppliers indicated Increased
that if current trends of order reductions continue, they an- 12%
No change
ticipate cutting their workforce by 35% relative to their 26%
current employment levels. If this figure holds true for
the entire industry globally, millions of garment work-
ers could be out of work. Decreased
62%
One supplier stated:
Source: Anner, Summer 2020 Supplier Survey.
[Buyer] executives handling sourcing are merciless, and ev-
erything about welfare of workers etc. is forgotten when they Figure 8
make demands.
5
See: Annie Kelly and Redwan Ahmed, “Surviving on a bag of rice: plight of Bangladeshi garment makers,” The Guardian, June 20, 2020.
Clean Clothes Campaign, “Un(der)paid in the pandemic. An estimate of what the garment industry owes its workers,” 2020. Business &
Human Rights Resource Centre, “Union busting and unfair dismissals: Garment workers during COVID-19,” August 2020. Jasmin Malik
Chua, “Risk of Forced Labor in Asia’s Manufacturing Hubs ‘Higher Than Ever,’” Sourcing Journal, September 10, 2020.
6
A little was defined as a ‘less than 10% reduction’ relative to pre-pandemic working time; a moder-ate amount referenced a 10–25%
reduction, a significant amount was for 26–50%, and a lot was for more than 50%.
7
Clean Clothes Campaign, “Un(der) Paid in the Pandemic: An estimate of what the garment industry owes its workers,” 2020.
Leveraging Desperation l page 8
Findings: Trade Data, Press Reports, and SEC Filings prices evident in the trade data (13%) was very close to
the price decline on new orders reported by suppliers
Using trade data to understanding new order dynamics in the survey (12%).
was difficult at this point in time because – due to long
lead and shipping times – current import data to the Supplier statements in the press indicated a concern
US and EU markets reflected order cancellations and about a growing price squeeze. For example, a repre-
partial order reinstatements for orders placed in March sentative of the Guatemalan suppliers’ association ex-
or earlier, not new order dynamics. However, July ship- pressed the following concern: “while U.S. orders are
ments can be expected to include some new orders, gradually recovering, trademarks demanding fashion-
and the most recently available data for the US showed able short runs are seeking bigger price cuts to satisfy
July imports indicated a decline of 22% relative to July recession-hit consumers.”8
last year. The full trend for new order volume will not
be clear in the trade data until later this fall, after all the The executive director of the Nicaraguan Association
old orders are finished, shipped, and received. of the Textile and Clothing Industry (Anitec), Dean
García, expressed similar concerns, stating, “the crisis
What the trade data also showed was a continued and being experienced with the coronavirus, where the
dramatic squeeze down on price. Comparing July 2020 whole region [of Central America] has been affected,
to July 2019, the average price per unit of imported ap- is much harder than the one experienced in 2009 …
parel to the US was 13% lower in July 2020 [See Figure companies are working to survive only, the pandemic
9.] While it was hard at this point to know with preci- has caused a global imbalance.”9
sion what share of this price drop was linked to retro-
active discounting imposed by buyers on suppliers for Succinctly stated by the CEO of the retail company
old orders and what share was due to the price point Serai, Vivek Ramachandran: “We’ve evolved into this
of new orders, the latter phenomenon was at least a really unhealthy equilibrium where the manufacturer
substantial contributor. It is notable that the decline in carries all the risk.”10

US Apparel Imports (USD/Unit)

$3.13

$2.73

July '19 - July '20:

13% decline in price/unit

Jul. '19 Jul. '20

Source: Anner, calculations based on OTEXA data

Figure 9
8
See: Ivan Castano, “Modas Garment Factory Shutters in Guatemala, Cascading Effect Feared,” Sourcing Journal, September 1, 2020.
9
See: CentralAmericaData, “Textile Industry with Subsistence Income,” August 13, 2020.
10
See: Sarah Jones, “How Garment Factories Are Vetting Customers During COVID-19,” Sourcing Journal, July 24, 2020.

Leveraging Desperation l page 9

Michael D. Casey, Chairman & Chief Executive Offi-
cer of Carter’s, provided insightful comments when re-
Thankfully, given a more favorable
porting on the company’s second quarter Security and
Exchange Commission (SEC) filing. He noted: environment for input costs and ex-
cess manufacturing capacity in Asia,
Thankfully, given a more favorable environment for input we are forecasting lower product
costs and excess manufacturing capacity in Asia, we are fore- costs for spring 2021. [...]
casting lower product costs for spring 2021. [...]
Our expectation is that product costs
Our expectation is that product costs will be lower; we will will be lower; we will have no plan to
have no plan to lower prices in the spring. [...] lower prices in the spring. [...]

We expect gross margin expansion.11 We expect gross margin expansion.

-Michael Casey, CEO of Carter’s
In other words, with so many suppliers in Asia facing
lost orders, there is now even greater excess capacity in
the region. The expectation is that suppliers will have of manufacturing jobs. However, most garment work-
to compete with each other to get more limited new ers did not earn wages that were high enough to cover
orders, which will allow buyers to drive down the price their living expenses prior to the pandemic. The im-
they pay suppliers even more. At the same time, the pact of current sourcing dynamics pushes them deep-
company has no intention of passing this cost savings er into poverty.
on to consumers. Rather, by lowering the prices that it
is paying suppliers while also maintaining the prices it This report highlights the corrosive combination of
charges consumers, it expects its gross margins to grow emerging pandemic sourcing practices: using suppli-
in the spring of 2021. In all likelihood, other buyers ers’ desperation, born of depressed order volume, to
have the same or similar strategies. extract lower prices and longer payment schedules.
Lower prices mean low margins and, all too often,
Conclusions prices that do not cover the costs of production. And
delayed payments rob suppliers of the cash flow they
Covid-19 has had a devasting impact on economies need to produce new orders. If the current sourcing
and worker well-being across the world. The United squeeze does not end, it will gravely exacerbate a crisis
Nations estimated that 71 million people could fall in which we are already seeing large-scale factory clo-
back into poverty.12 This included an increase in sures and the loss of millions of garment jobs.
‘working poverty’, the number of workers with sala-
ries so low that they cannot cover their basic house- For all these reasons, it is of vital importance the brands
hold expenditures, with women being disproportion- rethink and revise such adverse pandemic purchasing
ately affected.13 practices. Otherwise, the current short-term gains for
brands of such practices will turn to long-term costs.
What is happening in global garment manufactur- This is because the supply chains needed to sustain the
ing is a crucial part of this story. In many developing industry will face such exorbitant stress that they may
countries, garment exports provide the main source never fully recover. n
11
See: Carter’s Inc., “Q2 2020 Carter’s, Inc. Earnings Conference Call,” July 24, 2020.
12
See: United Nations, “The Sustainable Development Goals Report,” 2020.
13
Ibid.

Leveraging Desperation l page 10