Olt September 2020

i n d i a ’ s no.
1
T r av e l
magazine
september 2020 • L150 www.outlooktraveller.com
T H E L O N G
j
Just a little
o u r
Our Man in Undhiyu Roadtrip across
further to Europe, Nitin recipe from the different
Taktsang Chaudhary Gujarat states
n
New faces in old
e
Embrace nirvana
y
Yoga through
places: Hampi at Ganpatipule the ages
Around the Block Meet the GM Time Traveller Book Review

Hazratganj Suman Nanaiah The Maharaja of Every Creature
Air India has a Story
8 904150 800003 06 i t ’ s n o t w h e r e ——— i t ’ s h o w

september
Section
Roadtrip
Special
Volume 20
eat
Iss u e 6
explore “Life is either a

28 The List daring adventure,
When you’re on a journey of or nothing at all.”
rediscovery, follow these trails – Helen Keller
through India’s states
36 Ganpatipule
Ameya Bundellu
The lesser-known escape
along the Konkan coast
Don’t miss the ukadiche

modaks at Mehendale’s
Swaad Dining 36
48 Hampi
Rangeet Ghosh
The ruins of the old
Vijayanagara empire are home
to a new kind of people today
56 Bhutan
Trinetra Paul
A spiritual trek to the heart
of the tiger’s lair
radar
12 yoga page Tree pose, goat
yoga, immunity-boosting tips
14 around the block
Hazratganj
16 our man In Europe The
Danish summer in Nyhavn
17 Insta travel This month’s
pick of monsoon forts
Cover photograph: SHUTTERSTOCK
outlook traveller 3
september Long-haul
Section
Regulars
4 Foreign junkies who
holidays like to fly across the

seven seas, take this
eat
Editor
Amit Dixit
as an opportunity to
Assistant Editor
W
Labanya Maitra
Senior Sub Editor
ho would have thought it, but it looks
Roshni Subramanian like proper holidays are making a slow explore India properly
back
Photo Editor
Shruti Singh but steady comeback. Sooner than expected.
Deputy Art Director Trends indicate that more and more families
Rehana Farhan Shaikh
86 Books Senior Designer are hitting the road, heading out to a In other words, you leave a destination in
Rangeet Ghosh
favourite cottage in the hills or exploring an better shape than you found it.
88 Gearbox Outlooktraveller.com entire state on a single trip, with a marked My photograph accompanying this issue’s
89 smart TraveL Senior Features Writer
Simrran gill preference for scenic settings which offer letter is from a trip to Ranthambhore last
When you’re about Senior Contributing Writer
Uttara Gangopadhyay
easy seclusion and social distancing. And it’s winter. There was a delicious nip in the air,
to hit the road, don’t Consulting Editor likely to stay this way for a while. and the sun shone bright in a way it only
forget these roadtrip Anuradha Sengupta
Librarian Work From Home has basically become does on a cold winter’s day. There was music
essentials and tips Alka Gupta
Work From Anywhere. And the kids can log in the air (this was at the Ranthambhore
90 Time Traveller into their online classes from anywhere Music Festival). How I miss those trips now,
Business Office
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER too. Our cover story this issue explores the especially large gatherings of people, pressed
indranil roy
PUBLISHER
phenomenon and we’ve lined up some nice into close proximity. Wonder when we can
MEENAKSHI AKASH suggestions from across the country for you. have our festivals back. And crowded streets
Advertisements Reminds me of the sort of holidays at least with buskers. And food shack queues. And
Vice President
Shrutika Dewan (brand & marketing)
we used to take in my childhood, long group hugs. And handshakes. Fingers crossed...
Digital Team tours or vacations to the home town (nani ke
Amit Mishra
ghar) which could last an entire summer.
↑ Niraamaya Retreats, Kumarakom 81 Circulation & Subscription All you foreign junkies who like to sail (or
stay eat
Gagan Kohli
Asst. General Manager fly) across the seven seas, let’s take this as an
G. Ramesh (south)
Regional Manager
opportunity to explore India properly. There’s
82 UpdateS This 70 island cake Kapil Dhal (North) a breathtaking variety of destinations and
Zonal sales manager
month’s pick of what’s The new trend on the experiences here. And they need our support
↑ The mini printer for Arun Kumar Jha (east)
happening across your social media block your smartphone, Production right now. In fact, the next wave of tourism is
favourite hotels like Le 72 interview What’s Fujifilm’s Instax Mini General manager
likely to be regenerative, not just sustainable. Amit Dixit @omitdixit
Shashank dixit
Bristol Paris new with Chef Saby Link comes in Dusty Manager
Pink, Ash White and Sudha sharma
83 Interview An 73 meal of Denim Blue 88 Associate Manager
inside look into the the month Gaurav Shrivas
Deputy Manager
life of Suman Nanaiah, Comorin, Gurugram Ganesh Sah
Area GM of Royal
Orchid Hotels, Mysuru
75 Classic recipe Accounts
3 things Something I ate
I did this
Vice President
Gujarat’s Undhiyu Diwan Singh Bisht
Turkey! Courtesy Chef
month Sabyasachi Gorai who has

Company secretary & law officer
Crossed Off my
Ankit Mangal
reading list been rustling up this and other
Head Office
↑ Went through my stuff and American birds at his Deli.
AB-10, S.J. Enclave, New Delhi 110029
India: The World ↓ Had some non-alcoholic
Tel: (011) 71280400; Fax: (011) 26191420 Vegetarian beer (quite nice) found this #throwback photo
Customer care helpline: Roopa Gulati with someone famous
(011) 71280433, 71280400
X what we covered this month e-mail: [email protected]
One doesn’t really read
For subscription helpline: a cookbook from cover
Lucknow 14 Bhutan 56 Karnataka 74 Kolkata 82 [email protected] to cover, but I know I’ll
Tamil Nadu 18 Gujarat 60 Dubai 74 Mysuru 83 Other Office be dipping into this one
mumbai Tel: (022) 50990990 a lot. ← Burnt some
Ganpatipule 36 Gurugram 73 France 76 UTTARAKHAND 29
Up Next cookies (still
Bihar 40 New Delhi 72 Bishangarh 78 Odisha 30 Printed and published by Indranil Roy
Meditations pretty, no?)
on behalf of Outlook Publishing (India)
hampi 48 Kerala 74 Kumarakom 81 Goa 34 Private Limited. Editor: Amit Dixit. Marcus Aurelius
Printed at Kalajyothi Process Pvt Ltd,
Sy.No.185, Sai Pruthvi Enclave, Kondapur
500084, R.R. Dist., Telangana &
published from AB-10 Safdarjung
Enclave, New Delhi 110029.
Released on 01-09-2020
4 se p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0 Total no. of pages 88 + Covers outlook traveller 5
The Chatter
facebook / instagram / youtube
front
Around The
@outlooktraveller
Twitter @oltraveller
World on
Celluloid BEST
#OTHallOfFrame All set for your next virual BEST
escape from the comfort of
STRONGER
COVID-READY
We scoured through our feed, brimming with all kinds of
your armchair?
gems, to bring you the rarest of our finds
Baraka
Ron Fricke • A documentary TOGETHER
filmed over 5 years in 25
INNOVATION
odd countries; it explores
language, nationality, EFFORT
religion and politics
Poll to picture Tracks
So many travellers, so many John Curran• An adaptation
travel styles. Here’s what of the real life memoir
you picked! of Robyn Davidson, it
Soul food Fine Dining chronicles the nine-month-
long journey across the
Adventure Escape
deserts of Australia
Delays Stopover The Darjeeling Limited
Wes Anderson• A dramedy C
BEST
Neck rest headphones
involving family bonds, the M
Rainfall Snowfall movie takes you on a trip Y
across India aboard the
Letter of the month

‘Darjeeling Limited’
CM
FUTURE-FORWARD
2021
X Sikkim Copenhagen MY
Reminiscing Mark Raso • An indie CY
STATE
the good ol’ days
@_ayeli.m_ Gazing at the golden spotlight as a single ray coming of age adventure, CMY
of sun emerges from behind the clouds Copenhagen recounts the

K
I subscribed to OT for the protagonist’s journey as he

first time when I was in backpacks across Europe
“Exuberant, vivid school. But back then I If you’re unsure which one
and bewitching. The couldn’t travel as much. to pick, fret not! We’ve got
cultural heritage here So, I travelled through you covered. For more film
will leave you with a your magazine. Over the recommendations head to
lifelong experience of years many other travel our website.
pure divinity.” magazines came but I
Exploring
@su.nita8926 eventually stopped reading.
X Rajasthan
@adaay.10 The man who

Recently, I rediscovered all
these magazines on the Jio Hidden BEST BEST
Treasures
knows Jaipur in and out App but the one I specifically
looked for was OT. The
articles are still as good. The @Soumitra2015
ALTERNATIVE RESPONSIBLE
On the layout is still as amazing. The travelogue on
Channel Till now, I’ve just read your
editorial section, but I
Puducherry authored by Ms
Sohini Basu was a superb
LIVELIHOOD COMMUNICATION
already love it. Thank you for
INITIATIVE CAMPAIGN
piece. Savoured every word
keeping the magazine going. of it thoroughly.
MEGHNA CHOWDHARY,
VADODARA @MahajanPaul
Unseen and beautiful
X Ecuador
paradises are finally being
We love mail! Write in to
@dan_lior Tribal tales from Video Theyyam of discovered. One only needs
[email protected]
the Amazon rainforest Kolathunadu | Kerala an eye to appreciate it.
TO APPLY, LOG ON TO responsibletourismindia.com
6 se p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0
ResponsibleTourism outlook_rt outlook_responsibletourism
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
Rejuvenated through a long hiatus,
Odisha’s enigmatic wilderness is
opening up to welcome you
into its cosy embrace. Rejoice and
rejuvenate, responsibly
Responsible
Tourism À la Odisha Clockwise from facing page: Chitrakonda at Malkangiri;
off-roading in the water; forest officials at Hirakud; and
Ecotour hosts
O
disha boasts 47 Ecotour Today, over 600 trained community revenues of over `1 crore by hosting over Daringbadi, Mandasaru’s Silent Valley costs. Hygienic and wholesome meals members are being trained on-site in
properties with about 300 members are directly engaged in hosting 4,000 visitors per year. This initiative has and Phulbani or strap up your trekking are included in the package. Tourists 10-day batches, which are inter alia
accommodations (cottages, and serving visitors with unmatched won several awards, the most recent gear for Saptasajya. Odisha’s waterfalls can enjoy their share of leisure with imparting soft and technical skills which
tents, treehouses, etc) simplicity and supreme quality. The being India’s Best Ecotourism Initiative at and cascades are amongst its most abandon, through a host of activities will help up the experience quotient.
across its length and breadth, in diverse project has emerged as a sustainable FICCI’s Travel & Tourism Awards 2019. serendipitous surprises; visitors can book such as cycling, birding, jungle trails, For those looking for a sabbatical
ecosystems such as beaches, forests income generator for local communities Tourists can pick their choice—those stays at Sanaghagara, Khandadhar and boating, outdoor games or stepping to unwind, it’s a great idea to hit the
and protected areas, hill stations, tribal whose lives earlier were heavily desiring to simply retreat to nature’s Barehipani. Serious wildlife buffs and to the beats with locals by the bonfire. beautiful roads that connect Odisha’s
hinterlands, riverbanks and wetlands. dependent on forest resources like nest can opt for frugal retreats, while shutterbugs can opt for Mangalajodi in Stays and other services can be booked beautiful landscapes. At a time when the
Of the state’s total population, around honey, firewood, etc. In addition to those explorers with a zest for adventure Chilika, Ramtirtha/ Jamuani/ Kumari through their sites odishatourism.gov.in tourism and hospitality sector, reeling
83 per cent resides in rural and other who are directly employed in the camps, may go and experience the rich nature in Similipal, Tikarpada/ Chhotkei in or ecotourodisha.com. from the pandemic’s hit, is looking to
non-urban areas. Their role in conserving five to six villages around each property camps. If the beach is beckoning you, Satkosia, Debrigarh or Dangamala/ Gupti With the focus on the future, spring back, Ecotour Odisha offers a
the natural ecosystems and resources is now earn their livelihoods indirectly choose to camp literally a few steps in Bhitarkanika National Park. Department of Tourism and Department vacation with a cause.
undoubtedly pivotal. by providing daily requirements to the away from the waves at Bichitrapur, With tariffs ranging from just of Forest & Environment has jointly
In 2016, Odisha’s Forest & Environment units by selling vegetables, handmade Habalikhati, Nuanai or Rajhans and over `2,000 for a double-bedded initiated a training course for Ecotour
Department initiated its ‘Community articles, milk, transport facilities, etc. Berhampura Nature Camps. If mystic accommodation to `9,000 for a Odisha staff in COVID-19 risk control
Managed Nature Tourism’ model with the Prominent units in Similipal and Satkosia highs are your calling, reach for 10-bedded dormitory a night, Ecotour and mitigation in collaboration with IHM
local community as prime stakeholders. Tiger Reserves have excelled, generating Kandhamal’s uncharted beauty in Odisha offers max experience at min and IITTM. The ecotourism community
radar He r e ,
there,
now &
soon
Not the
Hippie Trail
X DELHI TO LONDON BUS
If you’re looking for the silver lining to this pandemic, it’s

what the millennials have been saying all along—YOLO.
We’re not about to spell that out for you, but here’s
what we will spell out: 20,000 kilometres, 70 days,
18 countries, two continents, one bus ride. Sounds
ludicrous? Not anymore.
This reverse Hippie Trail (it does come back that
route, though) is quite the Eat, Pray, Love journey.
Lan d of Yogis 12 You will Eat the cake and have it too in the lap of
•
luxury, ricketing (probably not) through the
Silk Route in 4 and 5 star hotels. You will
Pray to the ‘Old Gods and the New’ for your
H azratgan j 14 Central Asian escapade. And you’ll Love
• the fact that although you’re R15

lakh poorer, you’re a European
The Dan ish experience-of-a-lifetime

richer.
Sum m er 16 20 lucky wanderers will
undertake this land voyage
• in May 2021. The company,
Adventures Overland,
Rhythm Of The will offer four packages
Rain 17 to choose from. You can
Hop On-Hop Off through
Southeast Asia to China,
through Central Asia
to Russia, and through
Europe to London,
individually. Or you can go
all the way, taking in the
sights, sounds and everything in between.
Visas, hotels, meals, guides, tours, permits, are all taken
care of by the company, but it’s going to be BYOB: buy
your own booze!
Can’t have it all now, can we?
� Individual legs will be priced accordingly, and 5 per

cent GST will be added to all costs
� bustolondon.in
Vrikshasana:
Vinyasa
radar
Radar
This form focuses on rapid and continuous
Word to the Wise
movements flowing from one posture to the
“During the changing season as the
the Tree Pose

next. Synchronised breathing is an important
temperature drops suddenly, our aspect of Vinyasa.
immunity takes a hit too. To stay safe
follow these simple eating rules: Hatha Kundalini
pa g e
pa g e
This form aims to relax your body Kundalini is said to awaken
» Give the digestive system a break and mind with physical asanas and the energy at the base of the
and avoid processed foods, breathing exercises like pranayam. spine and bring it through the
Perhaps one of the most common asanas,
th e yoga
th e yoga
too much meat, and go Hatha yoga is the most seven chakras with postures,
Vrikshasana has a number of benefits in common type of yoga and breathing, chanting
gluten-free.
store for practitioners. It stretches the legs, is perfect for beginners. mantras and meditation.
» Have lots of fruits and
back and arms, while improving balance and
vegetables to score enough
concentration. The tree pose has allegedly also
fibre and antioxidants to
helped alleviate certain cases of sciatica. Practice
proactively boost immunity.”
caution while doing this pose if you suffer
from migraines, insomnia, low or high
Kavita Devgan is a renowned nutritionist,
blood pressure. Always consult your
columnist, author and speaker on health
doctor before trying any new form
and lifestyle. Grab her latest book Fix
of exercise.
it with Food to learn more about eating
simpler, and living longer.
How to do Vrikshasana
1. Stand tall with your back straight and arms by
your side
2. Bend one knee at a time and place your foot
flat in the inner thigh of the opposite leg
3. Once you find your balance, bring your hands to
a namaste
4. Straighten your body and spine, and relax your
muscles as you take deep breaths in and out
5. You can slowly raise your arms straight above
your head while maintaining the namaste
6. Slowly bring your arms back to your side and
your foot back on the ground
7. Repeat with the other leg
On Trend: Goat Yoga

A wildly popular trend circa
2017, goat yoga is quite the fun-
Land of Yogis
filled, furry-footed venture. Yoga
practitioners from various levels get
downward and dirty with baby goats
hop-skip-and-jumping all over them.
Re-upped by its feature on Netflix’s The practice of yoga has evolved and morphed into a host of different forms
Indian Matchmaking, it’s the one form across the world; some intriguing, some not. But yoga in India is different—it’s
of yoga where it’s totally acceptable organic, and has as much to do with spirituality as physical exercise. Let’s take
to be stuck in child’s pose while a look at the six basic forms of yoga in the country.
snuggling a fuzzy goat-ling. Don’t
Sivananda Iyengar
know about you but we certainly
don’t mind holding a plank if there’s a A type of Hatha yoga, this includes Ashtanga Established by yogi BKS Iyengar,
baby goat hopping around our backs! a surya namaskar and goes this form pays great attention to
Similar to Vinyasa, Ashtanga
through the 12 asanas created by the muscle alignment and finer
focusses on a set order of asanas
Swami Sivananda. details within each pose.
steadily increasing in difficulty.
It’s physically taxing and
significantly heats the body.
12 September 2020 outlook traveller 13

It’s almost a 1 Kashmir Govt Arts 3 Sugandh Co. Iconic Buildings
Radar
Radar
Around the
block steal Emporium Authentic Attars, essential oils
14
A B Kashmiri handicrafts and fragrances
Fragrances • Chikankari •
Royal CAFÉ With a Burma Biscuit
Knick-Knacks • Handicrafts 2 Nazrana Chikan 4 Love Lane Haggle
legacy of 40 years, Company The bakery-
it’s known for its cum-patisserie has been Chikan kurtas for a good deal
delectable street food in business since 1944
bl ock
• J800 for two with a loyal patronage
� Do not miss out • J100 for two
their signature � Try their iconic cakes
X Downtown
Basket Chaat and muffins
Area in Central A General Post C Sahu Cinema
A rou n d th e
Lucknow Office Single screen theatre
Hazratganj
Gothic-style since 1932
building, formerly
Ring Theatre, used D Minoo & Dinshaw
Lucknow’s Epicentre for screening English Booksellers
films and dramas Iconic bookshop
B Universal E Mayfair
Booksellers Building A former
A fourth-generation theatre, ballroom
bookshop with an and restaurant for
80-year-legacy the British
Nawabi and British style of architecture C
join hands with nostalgia to bring you all Shree Gandhi Ashram
Affordable
things vintage. Khadi Gramudyog
Street Bhavan
Shopping From Khadi silk saris
to organic skincare
••
5 products, everything Eat the world 1 Cooperative Indian 6 The Cherry
Lucknow’s under one roof
From sweet to Coffee House Tree CAFÉ
Iconic Eateries savoury, what’s Oldest coffee shop in Cheesecakes,
your pick? Lucknow grandma’s tea cakes
••
and choco-chip cookies
JJ Bakers
2
Vintage Keep an eye out for brick Cakes and speciality
Cinemas 5 and mortar shops, selling breads
E second-hand books and unique
•• 4 Do not miss 3 Moti Mahal
stationery items.
Walk Through out on the Imarti and rabri
hole-in-
History C 4 Chowdhury Sweet
b the-wall
C A House
•• D paan shops
Explore the market that have Iconic ice creams
4
Street Food 3 2 post sundown for an a variety of
1 unparalleled experience. 5 Bajpayee Kachodi
Heaven B
1 offerings.
Bhandar
3 Legendary breakfast joint
2
A casual stroll
Look for around the market
Atal Chowk here is colloquially
in maps called ‘ganjing’.
Metro: A
Hazratganj
Metro
eat
Station
shop
14 September 2020 Compiled by Simr r a n gill outlook traveller 15

Illustrated by Ra nge e t G ho sh
↙ Living in Sweden for over 12
years, he hopes to travel the
Radar
Radar
Man in world in a boat
europe
16
I n sta tr ave l l e r
N i t i n C h a u d h a ry
The Danish Summer
T
his summer has been an neighbourhood in all of Denmark. It is Nyhavn is marked by old
exceptional one in Scandinavia. On marked by old pastel-coloured buildings pastel-coloured buildings X Mandu Rising up from the depths of X Orchha Dreaming of revisiting the X Rajgad Fort Swatches of green
most days, temperature soared in the high shimmering emerald waters past in the present adorning the royal abode
and a waterfront, where Danes and tourists
and a waterfront, where
twenties, the sun beamed unrestrained sit in open-air cafés eating smørrebrød @_mr_n_i_k @we_luv_bundelkhand @travelling_lats
from any passing clouds, and the blue sandwiches. There was a mild cheer in the
Danes and tourists sit
waters of the Baltic Sea shimmered air, and artists occupied corners of this in open-air cafés eating
smørrebrød sandwiches
Rhythm of
underneath. On days like these, Danes, neighbourhood street, punctuating it
declared the happiest people in the with their flair.
world, pour out on the Strøget, the city’s I sat at a waterfront café, sipping coffee, to yet another favourite spot of mine in
pedestrian street.
Last week, on one such sunny afternoon,
I decided to take a stroll on the Strøget.
breathing the air infused with the smell
of the sea, listening to the songs from the
street singer, and watching expensive yachts
Copenhagen—Tivoli.
To the outsiders, Tivoli may seem like
just another amusement park. To the
the Rain
Denmark had just recently allowed people bobbing up and down in the Öresund locals, it means much more. Tivoli threw As the thunderclap paves the
from southern Sweden in, and I didn’t want Straight. At this moment, everything its gates open in 1841, when a Dane, Georg way for light showers, it’s time
to let go of the opportunity to visit one of looked fine. Although just for a few Carstensen, inspired by all the amusement to hit the road. These are the
my favourite cities in the world. hours, we all seemed to have collectively parks that he had seen abroad, sought the getaways we can’t get over!
Strøget runs from the town centre dropped the fear and decided that things Danish king's permission to open one in
@animeshkshatriya
Rådhuspladsen through the shopping are normal. I relished this semblance of Copenhagen. Such was its success that even
thoroughfare of Copenhagen to Nyhavn. normalcy with each sip of coffee. I left the Walt Disney took inspiration from Tivoli Murud, MAHARASHTRA
Nyhavn is perhaps the most recognisable festivity of Nyhavn behind me as I walked and tried to replicate Tivoli’s mood and Undefeated and unexplored, the
remnants of the royal past lie in the
atmosphere for his parks. X Telangana A deep manifested past
heart of the sea
In normal times, I would have taken a few buried under the setting sun
rides, and relished the artificially generated @whatever_tania
thrill. But today I decided to stay on the
ground and watch others hop into their
rides. On the bench where I sat, next to me
sat a man eating ice cream. He was perhaps
in his late fifties. He saw me observing him,
and smiled back.
“I have been doing this for the past 40
years,” he said. “Eating ice cream here every
summer.” Not everyone comes to Tivoli
to take the rides. I decided to give him
company and got myself an ice cream as
well. There we sat, a safe two metres apart,
eating ice creams at Tivoli on this warm,
sunny afternoon.
Above us, the carousel twirled, and the
kids in it hollered in euphoria.
X Udaipur The city of lakes recalls the X Sajjan Garh Some paths can’t be X Chittor Fort A historical marvel
↖ Nyhavn is perhaps the most recognisable elegance of a bygone era discovered without getting lost shrouded in myths and legends
neighbourhood in all of Denmark
@ankit_rinayat @cinematicronnie @archnaaaah
Illustration: Nitin Chaudhary

PROMOTION
PROMOTION
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
Beyond The
Temple Run
A melange of all things young and old, Tamil Nadu’s extensive platter meets
every kind of traveller’s needs, often leaving you spoilt for choice
The thousand
pillar mandapam
H
eritage, nature or wildlife.
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
What’s your pick? Occupying
the bottom stretch of the
Coromandel Coast, Tamil
Nadu sits comfortably in the lap of
nature. Supremely rich in culture and
heritage, it is home to the ancient Chola
Dynasty, the state has a wealth of temple
architecture. A social-distancing friendly
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
destination, especially in the hill stations,
the towering mountains and charming
landscape offer countless reasons as
to why this southern gem should be
your next vacation destination post
the pandemic. Clockwise from here: Pancha Rathas;
Vivekananda Rock Memorial and statue
Step Back In Time of poet Thiruvalluvar; Airavatesvara
temple in Darasuram; and Chettinad
The rich history of Tamil Nadu has mansion in Kanadukathan
resulted in many notable sights across
the state. Its diversity is best exemplified
in the plethora of religious sites including
a number of churches, mosques and
even Buddhist monasteries.
The Chola dynasty that ruled the region
till the 13th century is credited with Located at the confluence of
the most outstanding temples that three seas, Kanyakumari's
showcase the grandeur of the bygone
tranquil aura is contrasted by
era. During their reign of nearly 1,500
years, the Chola temples became the the roaring tides of the sea
hub of economic, political and cultural
activities. Head to the Great Living Chola
Temples, a Unesco World Heritage Site,
to witness their architectural brilliance.
The site includes three great temples—
the Brihadeeswarar Temple at Thanjavur,
the Airavatesvara Temple at Darasuram
and the Gangaikonda Cholapuram
Temple at Jayankondam.
Many of the heritage buildings

like the Chettinad mansions have
now been converted into heritage
hotels. Their unique architecture,
peaceful ambience and delectable
cuisine are great tourist attractions.
The Group of Monuments at

Mahabalipuram, another Unesco
World Heritage Site, is a collection of
monolithic monuments built by the
Pallava kings in the 7th and 8th centuries.
The rock sculptures are inspired by tales
from Mahabharata and are a sight to
behold. Some of the prominent ones
are Arjuna’s Penance, Pancha Rathas,
Varaha Mandapam, Mahisha suramarthini
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
Mandapa etc., Located in the heart of
The tranquil hill
station of Valparai Madurai, the Meenakshi Temple, built in
in Coimbatore 6th century BC, is one of the most iconic
Situated in the Nilgiri Mountains, the little town of Ooty served attractions down south. Madurai situated
as a getaway for the British in the pre-independence era on the banks of River Vaigai, has a rich
cultural heritage passed on from the
great Tamil Sangam era which is more
than 2500 years old. It was the capital
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
city of Pandya Kings. Meenakshi Temple
is dedicated to Parvathi or Meenakshi –
the consort of Lord Shiva. It is a splendid
example of Dravidian Architecture. The
temple has doors in all four directions for
devotees to enter. However, it’s the Koodal
Azhagar Temple here that is believed
to be older than the Meenakshi Temple.
Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, one can spot
the three varied statues in different
postures—standing, sitting and reclining.
Along the Coast

With the Indian Ocean in the south
and the Bay of Bengal in the east, this
Tamil Nadu is the perfect destination
for a beach holiday. Each beach has its
own charm with resorts and tiny cafés
serving delicacies as you gaze into that
picture-perfect sunset.
Apart from the monolithic structures,
the sandy beach of Mahabalipuram also
attracts hordes of tourists from all over
the world. If you love swimming and
windsurfing then this is the ideal spot for
you. The Mahabalipuram Dance Festival
held during winters every year is another
reason to hit this beach town.
Do not miss out on the seafare at

Olaikuda, a small fishing village in
Rameshwaram, replete with coral
reefs, ideal for scuba divers.
The southernmost tip of the Indian

mainland, Kanyakumari is located at the
confluence of the Bay of Bengal, the
Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea. Its
tranquil aura is contrasted by the roaring
tides of the sea, making it the perfect
getaway for those who prefer the solitude
of a less-touristy beach. The sight of the
waves striking the rocks makes for an
alluring visual. While in Kanyakumari,
you can pay your respects to goddess
Kanya Kumari at the 3,000-year-
old Kumari Amman Temple, visit the
Padmanabhapuram Palace and the Kodaikanal, nestled in the Palani Hills
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
century-old lighthouse. A memorial is perfect for those looking for something
dedicated to Swami Vivekananda, 500 a bit more offbeat and away from the
meters from main land, accessible by a typical touristy crowd. Be it a boat ride
ferry service and gigantic 40 meters high along the star-shaped Kodaikanal Lake
statue of Tiruvalluvar, a great poet – saint or capturing the ethereal beauty from
are major attractions. the Pillar Rocks, where three vertical
If you’re looking to get away from granite boulders play hide and seek with
the bustle of city life, then you surely mists, this resort town creates the ideal
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
need a holiday to the ‘lost town’ of setting for you to connect with nature.
Dhanushkodi at the southernmost end of Apart from its manicured cliffs and rolling
Rameshwaram. Surrounded by the Bay slopes, the charming hill station is known
of Bengal on one side and Indian Ocean for its mesmeric cascading waterfalls.
on the other, Dhanushkodi Beach offers The Bear Shola Falls and Vattakanal Falls
a chance to encounter the thrills of sea are both sights to behold especially
surfing. With every beach extraordinary during the monsoons.
in its own sense, it is a sweet addition to
your Tamil Nadu vacation. Into the Wild
With as many as 15 wildlife and bird
Encounter Nature’s Bounty sanctuaries, five national parks and four
There’s no doubt that Tamil Nadu is a more situated in the Western Ghats, it most popular hill stations in the region. tiger reserves, the sheer number of
nature lover’s paradise. With its quaint offers ample scope for eco-tourism. Situated in the Nilgiri Mountains, this flora and fauna is incentive enough for
hill stations, including the likes of Ooty, Known as the ‘Queen of Hills’, Ooty little town served as a getaway for the travellers to visit the state.
Kodaikanal, Coonoor, Yelagiri and many or Udhagamandalam is one of the British in the pre-independent era. A boat Located at the foothills of the Nilgiris,
Mudumalai National Park is a must-visit
on a first timer’s itinerary. Established in
1940, it is an integral part of the Nilgiri
Biosphere Reserve. Home to many
endangered species like the royal
Bengal tiger and the Asiatic wild dog,
reports suggest that nearly 13 per cent
of the mammal species in India can be
found in Mudumalai. Bird watchers are
in for a ride as one can spot the crested
serpent eagle and the tiny-eared owl.
Catch a glimpse of the wild cats at
the Anamalai Tiger Reserve. Situated in
the Anamalai Hills of Coimbatore, the
reserve is home to not only tigers but
Clockwise from here: the endangered Nilgiri tahr; ride the Nilgiri Mountain Railway; many other species such as spotted deer
the ancient Brihadeeswarar Temple; and Vedanthangal, one of the oldest bird and panthers. A biodiversity hotspot in its
sanctuaries in India
truest sense, you can find more than 250
ride at Ooty Lake can be very refreshing. species of birds here.
If a heritage ride is on your mind, then Endowed with an abundance of Offering a real insight into urban
the Nilgiri Mountain Railway is just the natural wealth, the hinterlands of wilderness, the Guindy National Park in
one for you. Declared a Unesco World Tamil Nadu are perfect for trekking. Chennai serves as the humble abode
Book a curated walking tour for a
Heritage Site in 2005, it was first built by of a large number of migratory birds,
peaceful escape.
the British in 1908. The train runs from reptiles, blackbucks, jackals, pangolins
Mettupalayam to Udagamandalam, via and Indian civets among many others.
Coonoor. As the train chugs over bridges, might even spot wild cats and peacocks. For the adventure lovers, Mukurthi
be prepared to be awed by the vistas of You can spend the night at the forest National Park in
mountains, valleys and tea plantations boat house near Pykara Lake. The the Nilgiri Hills
along the way. highest point in the Nilgiri Mountains, the has some of the
The journey to upper Bhavani Lake Doddabetta Peak in Ooty is a real treat to most beautiful
located within the deep jungles is the eyes, offering a breathtaking view of trekking routes
worthwhile and if you are lucky you the city's skyline. up its sleeve.
Photograph: Shutterstock
Explore
Explore
Regulars
26
life is Short,
and the world
is wide
R e g u l a r
R e g u l a r
Th e kon k an
coast 36
•
Don’t worry, be
ham pi 48
•
To the lair
of the flying
Tigress 56
explore Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche,

is said to have meditated in about 13
small monasteries in the 8th century.
He meditated for four months at the
Taktsang Monastery, one of the 13
‘tiger lairs’, before vanquishing local
demons in Paro. He is credited with the
introduction of Buddhism in Bhutan.
26 j u ly 2 0 2 0 outlook traveller 27
Explore
Explore
long
*
Nainital is known as the lake district
28
of India and the famous Naini Lake is
l i st
l i st
surrounded by legends and myths
The
th e
th e
the list
Uttarakhand
The state boasts of some of the most
spectacular driving routes through the Himalaya
Exercise extreme patience while out
journey
in the wild
The 95-kilometre drive from Nainital to Binsar
through the gorgeous Himalaya is as breathtaking
as it can get. The serene route offers an unparalleled
view of gorges, waterfalls and sublime natural vistas.
Escape into the Himalayan wildlife en route at the
Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary in the remote, mighty
mountains. An integral part of the Kumaon region,
it boasts of 200 species of flora and fauna. Further
*** *** *** along the treacherous valleys is the undiscovered,
Coastal Drives Nature Trails Heritage hauntingly beautiful, drive from Binsar to Pangot.
Kerala, Goa, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Stop for a layover at Pangot’s Kilbury Bird Sanctuary
Odisha Uttarakhand Rajasthan to spot innumerable rare migratory birds. The
town’s vast, lush expanse also includes several
hiking trails and some beautiful rapids and streams.
Drive through the terrain for about two hours to
Ramnagar and treat your senses to an ethereal,
natural escape at the Kaladhungi Waterfalls and the
Jim Corbett wildlife circuit.
� The Kilbury Sanctuary is home to exotic bird
species like white-throated thrushes, rufous-
bellied woodpeckers and the striated prinia
Luggage, check. Fuel, check.
Playlist, check. The next step in
2020 is to hop into your car and hit
the road for the timeless road-trip
along familiar routes. Here’s Team
OT reading the map for you
Photographs: Shutterstock
outlook traveller 29
Odisha *
Rajasthan’s capital city, Jaipur, was
Explore
Explore
founded in 1727 by Jai Singh II, who
was also the ruler of Amer
*
Catch a glimpse of the intricate art
The land of beaches and temples, Odisha is a
installations at the Sudam Sand Art
Museum while driving from Puri to Konark treasure hidden in plain sight
Be mindful of the religious sentiments
at the temples
l i st
l i st
Embark on a journey and encounter India’s bygone
era at the Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves. These caves
uncover India’s ancient secrets in the form of carvings
th e
th e
of royal scenes and hunting parties from Ashoka’s reign.
Drive further south and find yourself in the biggest salt
water lagoon in Asia—Lake Chilika. You may even spot
a dolphin during the sunset boat ride. The next leg of
the leisure drive brings you to Puri. A soulful dip in the
Bay of Bengal is sure to wipe away the city conundrum.
Stroll through the town to sample some authentic and
delectable Odia food. A drive along the shoreline will
take you to Konark, where a guided tour of the Sun
Temple is a must. Make sure to stop at the Olive Ridley
Sea Turtle Reserve on the way. Drive to Bhitarkanika
National Park, a RAMSAR site for its wetlands, and catch
a glimpse of salt water crocodiles and rhesus monkeys.
� Visit the Jagannath Temple during dawn to get a
crowd-free experience
Uttar Pradesh Rajasthan

*
From the ghats of Varanasi to the marble splendour
of Taj Mahal, this drive is a delight An hour’s drive from Varanasi is Bhadohi, a Drive through the land of kings and witness their
hub for handwoven rugs. This art form was
fortified grandeur
Nov-Feb is the ideal time to visit brought to India by Iranian travellers
Best time to visit Rajasthan is winters
Saffron-hued skies, echoing chants and loquacious
priests. Kickstart your journey at Varanasi, and let A 13-kilometre drive from the Pink City to the majestic
the effervescent Ganga aarti take over your senses. Amer fort for an evening of cultural rendition of history
Situated at the Triveni Sangam—the junction of Ganga, and folk legends is a sublime way to kickstart your
Yamuna and Saraswati—is Prayagraj. Lined with Hindu Rajasthan trip. If you fancy yourself an unconventional
temples, travellers often find spiritual solace at the traveller, then head to Shekhawati, a major ancient
Triveni Ghat. Situated on the banks of the Yamuna is caravan trade route. People often find themselves
the Prayagraj Fort, which is believed to have given the lost in the royal musings within the havelis that are
city its former name, Allahabad. To tantalize your taste filled with elaborate frescos, intricate jali carvings and
buds drive further to the land of the Awadhi Nawabs— legacies. Drive along to Pushkar—one of the oldest cities
Lucknow. Separated by the majestic Rumi Darwaza, in India—to indulge in timeless architectural heritage,
temple trails and mythology. Follow the next leg of the The Oscar-winning
the old city of Lucknow still retains its nawabi charm.
drive to Kumbhalgarh Fort and witness India’s very own filmmaker Satyajit Ray
Whether you decide to gorge on the Awadhi biryani
shot his first children’s
or Rahim’s kulcha-nihari, the feast will be overloaded great wall, built to ward off the invading Mughal armies.
film, the iconic Sonar Kella,
with secrets from the royal kitchens. Transition from An alternate route to experience the magnificent
at the Jaisalmer Fort.
the Awadhi to the Mughal legacy, with a short drive to desert state is beginning your journey from Churu, a
Agra and end your journey at the lovely Taj. gateway to the mighty Thar. Drive further along and
find yourself in Bikaner, the city of dunes and gorgeous
� Uttar Pradesh has birthed many literary legends,
sunsets. Retreat while in Jaisalmer, where the fort
such as Kabir Das, Tulsidas and Premchand
awaits you with its countless secrets.
� Check the timings of the light and sound show at
Amer Fort, as they may differ with the seasons
30 se p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0 outlook traveller 31
Madhya
Explore
Explore
Pradesh
Culture, history and wildlife thrive hand-in-
hand here
l i st
l i st
Oct-Mar is the ideal time to visit
Get a wild start to your journey at the
Bandhavgarh National Park with an open-jeep
th e
th e
safari. Many might say you’re lucky if you spot a
tiger, but we place our bets on the leopards and
jackals. A 4-hour-drive from here will take you
to Bhedaghat, where myriad layers of spirituality
and mythology unfold at the Chausath Yogini
Temple dedicated to goddess Durga. For the
intrepid traveller, the Dhuandhar Falls is also
a sight to behold as the waters of the Narmada
River cascade down from an altitude giving
rise to a daunting mist. If your personal travel
style edges towards serenity, a boat ride on the
Narmada River is our pick. A further drive paves
way for a Unesco Biosphere Reserve famed for
its flora and fauna, Pachmarhi. Enter the last leg
of your journey at Bhimbetka where the rock
shelter cave paintings, a Unesco World Heritage
Site, transport you 12,000 years back in time.
� Bandhavgarh remains closed during the
monsoons and reopens in October
*
The food preferences here change every
few kilometres. Make sure to treat your
taste buds to all local delicacies
Kerala
Explore
Explore
If you find some extra time
on your hands, drive through Serene beaches, perfectly-lined beach houses
the Western Ghat roads and calming long walks on the soft sand
and witness the majestic Sep-Mar is the ideal time to visit
Dudhsagar Falls.
Begin the first leg of the drive at Varkala, where
l i st
l i st
the crack of dawn feels otherworldly. A further
drive along the charismatic shoreline up north
will take you to Alappuzha. This lagoon-bound
th e
th e
heaven, famous for its backwaters, has often
found global mentions for its serenity. Further
along, enter the old, fort town of Kochi and
quickly escape to its beaches, looking upon
the azure sea, and its forgotten fortifications.
Part ways with this historic town only to enter
another in Kozhikode. From Kappad—believed to
be where Vasco Da Gama first landed in India—
to the busy Kozhikode beach, this renowned
Malabar town has it all. Indulge in the mouth-
watering, unique street delicacies before driving
up north to Kasaragod. A gem hidden in plain
sight, this is the northern-most tip of Kerala and
home to the Bekal Fort. Located on the Bekal
beach, this fort tells tales of its colonial past
while teasing travellers with its untapped beauty.
� Make an extra pit-stop at Muzhappilangad,
Goa
Kerala’s only drive-in beach in Kannur
Drive past the jaunty beach shacks to discover Goa

like never before
Ideal time to visit is Nov-Feb
For those who equate Goa with booze and parties,
beginning your drive the traditional way at Palolem
is a promising start. With long stretches of powdery
sand beaches flanked by coconut palms and beach
huts, Palolem is synonymous with leisure. Leave the
waves on a high and head to the Cabo de Rama fort.
The view atop this forgotten gem transports you back
Travellers can also choose to spend a
to Goa’s yesteryears. Ride to Margao and get a taste of tranquil evening watching the fishermen
the local life. Further along north, find yourself amid community working on fishing nets from
architecturally abundant churches and cathedrals left Alappuzha to Kochi.
behind by the Portuguese. Drive past them to reach

Panjim and take a walk around this charming town. If
walking is not your thing, take a cycling tour here and
roam freely between the beaches, some more churches,
and colourful streets. Re-energise and drive on to the
charismatic Aguada fort. Sit on its fortifications before
starting an exploratory trail of the beaches that lie
ahead. Cover Candolim, Calangute, Baga, Anjuna, and
Vagator one by one, and camp at your preferred one,
each more astounding than the other.
� Visit the Noronha’s Corner Food Truck in Anjuna
for a true Goan feast
outlook traveller 35
Explore
Explore
Regulars
36
↓ The virgin beach of
Ganpatipule makes for
a peaceful getaway
T
g a n pa t i p u l e
They say the powdery white sand
here glows at night
And changes hues at sunset. Though the few beaches

around Ganpatipule cannot be compared to the serene
***
backwaters that Kerala offers, they still continue to
Beach lover
Oceanfront, white-
remain one of the crown jewels of Maharashtra and one
sand beaches, and of the state’s most famous images. Precisely the reason
warm waters why this less-explored destination (I prefer to call it
less explored because it almost never makes it to the
list while planning a beach holiday, with more known
options like Alibaug and Goa always vying for the top
spot) deserves to be seen and experienced. In the current
scenario, where international travel seems a long way
*** off and exploring destinations closer home is the most
Ethnic touch plausible option, a getaway to this coastal town is ideal
Ancient temples, old
for someone craving for that one quick weekend escape.
forts, and natural
beauty Once used to transport coconuts and spices, this
sleepy town is known for its flavorful cuisine and warm
hospitality today. Dotting the Konkan coastline, nearly
25 kilometres from Ratnagiri and situated towards the
southern end of Maharashtra, it has ample potential
to grow into a major tourist magnet of sorts. For
36
*** what it probably lacks in sophistication, it more than
Coastal makes up for it in its spectacular white sand beaches,
flavours archaeological marvels and tropical climate. Taking a
Malvani seafood, plunge in the warm waters here and enjoying a cocktail
ganpatipule aamras, and is simply the perfect antidote to a hot sultry afternoon.
sumptuous modaks
To savour authentic coastal seafood, especially
Nirvana in the
the day’s fresh catch, do not forget to dine at
Konkan
Sameer, considered the city’s best.
Seafood lovers are in for a treat and can relish a
variety of fish thalis served at the local eateries.
Diners from all walks of life flock to these no-
frills joints to savour the lip-smacking surmai
A gem hidden in plain sight, (king fish) and prawn thali.
A m e y a B u n d e llu
reveals all that Ganpatipule holds in its
little lap of nature
quite sure greater love
While no one is a matter of time until tourists started There is no
Explore
Explore
flocking the town for its dazzling beaches The beach town of Velneshwar
and the growing number of upscale is approx. 40kms away from
Ganpatipule. The crescent-
How tourists stumbled upon hotels and homestays. I checked into the Than the love of food. Delve deep into one
shaped beach with a shrine to
Ganpatipule, Maharashtrian and Gujarati eco-chic Blue Ocean Resort & Spa. With Lord Shiva is worth visiting.
of Maharashtra’s most distinct coastal
families from Mumbai and Pune have rooms that boast of contemporary decor food cultures at Ganpatipule. Discerning
frequently been visiting Ratnagiri, and and elegant artworks that adorn the walls, locals can be seen haggling for the freshest
especially Ganpatipule for over a few the beach-front villas and sea views could charming waterfront cottages. produce and seafare at the local market. For
centuries for the famed Swayambhu stop the most world-weary traveller in Travellers with modest budgets have a wholesome Maharashtrian vegetarian
Ganpati Temple, believed to be around their tracks. Set in lush greenery opposite long flocked here. However, Ganpatipule thali complete with aamras (seasonal) and
400 years old. Two beautiful idols of Lord the crescent-shaped Malgund Beach, over the last few years has also caught the ukadiche modak it doesn’t get any better than
Ganesha can be found here, one made across Arrey Warrey Road and against the eye of vacationers with deep pockets. And Mehendale’s Swaad Dining.
out of white sand and the other made backdrop of coconut palms, the property while it may now seem like a versatile Honestly, it is the calmness of everyday
of bronze. With a hill in its immediate has an idyllic setting. Enjoy the fine spa slice of holiday heaven with luxury villas, life—witnessing fishermen in their
background that resembles Lord or laze around the pool side, basking in wellness retreats and laidback homestays, traditional longboats, children splashing
Ganesha, most visitors make it a point to the shade. A few old traditional houses what stands out is the fact that it has offshore, fishing birds of a certain species—
circumambulate the hillock as a mark of of Ganpatipule have also been converted still managed to retain its original ethnic that makes it hard to imagine a better
respect to the deity. into homestays including a number of and cultural vibe. setting to rejuvenate one’s body and soul.
Though the place hasn’t changed
significantly over the years, it was only
↑ Spot a starfish
on the golden
sands of the beach
↓ The iconic
Swayambhu
Ganpati Temple is
↑ A traditional
Konkani spread
is incomplete
traveller ganpatipule
four centuries old without kokum
Nearest Airport: Mumbai (317kms, 10 hours to Malgund)
Drive From Mumbai to Ganpatipule; halt at Chiplun for its sandy beaches,
mangroves and cashew plantations
Around the Town

x Jaigad Fort Coastal
fortification protected
under the Archaeological
Survey of India
x Lighthouse Located
atop the peninsular tip,
the lighthouse dates back
nearly two centuries
x Beach Hopping Drive
Getting Around along Guhagar Beach,
x Rickshaws and taxis are easily Malgund Beach and
available, however, tourists prefer Bhandarpule Beach
self or chauffeur-driven cars x Nivali Waterfalls
x Motorcycles and bicycles are 45mins drive from
also available for rent Ganpatipule
What to Eat
Do not miss x Traditional fish thali includes the fresh catch of
the day (pomfret or mackerel—fried or
Alphonso mangoes
made into a spicy curry), multigrain
of the Devgad
bhakri, sol kadi and rice
variety, cashew
nuts, kokum x Wholesome
sherbet and local Maharashtrian vegetarian
mango pickle thali comprises of puri,
aamras (seasonal), kokum
curry and steamed modaks
Monks paying
respect to
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
the place of
enlightenment
of the Buddha in
Bodh Gaya
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
From its cities to its small towns and villages,
Bihar is a treasure trove for travellers, who find
themselves hit with a wave of euphoria here
Layered
Antiquity
L
ocated to the east of the country, evident from its name, derived from the months meditating and preaching, and
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
Bihar is one of the most exciting ancient word ‘Vihara’. Lord Mahavira spent 14 years of his life
and alluring destinations with Located about 90kms southeast of at a single place during four monsoon Clockwise from
here: Ashokan Pillar
a tranquil aura to it. The culture the capital Patna, is Rajgir. Originally months. Home to rock-cut caves, forts, in Vaishali; the lush
and ancient sites here tell tales of the known as Rajagriha—translating to ‘home Buddhist ruins, shell inscriptions, Hindu landscape at Ghora
state, which come alive on its busy streets. of the king’—it was initially the ancient and Jain temples, and Muslim tombs, it Katora; and the Vishwa
Shanti Stupa in Nalanda
Renowned for its fascinating festivals of capital of the city of Magadh. It was in speaks the language of the soul of Bihar.
colours and deep-rooted customs and Rajgir that Gautam Buddha spent several Further along in the Nalanda district,
values, this state is a treat that has been
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
hiding in plain sight. Bihar’s long and
rich history dates back centuries—the
former kingdom of Magadha and home
to multiple dynasties, like the Mauryas
and the Guptas. To ensure the safety of
travellers, the state government has also
issued stringent precautionary measures.
Step foot into blissful Bihar and wonder
why it is often overlooked.
On a Spiritual Trail
The antiquity of this ancient land where
India's first major empires rose and fell is
Bihar’s capital Patna—formerly

Patliputra—is one of the oldest
continuously inhabited places, not
only in India but the world.
is one of the greatest centres of learning his path to nirvana. Soaked in saffron and bound to follow history. Bihar is believed
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
in ancient times. This small village in the maroon robes, the chants and prayers of to be the only state with a history of over
Buddhist circuit is as serene as ancient the monks here build a cocoon of peace. 3,000 years and rightly so. The presence
times. The ruins of Nalanda University, of numerous ancient architectural
constructed in the Kushana style of The Heritage Arch relics represents the rich heritage of
architecture, can also be found here. Toss the two-headed coin and heritage is the state. Forts, caves, and tombs are
It is in Nalanda that the pristine,
marbled Vishwa Shanti Stupa, or the
World Peace Pagoda, atop the Ratnagiri
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
Hill resides. Although the climb uphill may
seem daunting, the views continue to
amaze travellers from all walks of life. The
four golden Buddha statues—depicting
his birth, enlightenment, preaching and
death—are flocked by the followers of
Buddhism and Jainism alike. Additionally,
there is also a ropeway that can take
travellers uphill. This pilgrimage trail also
leads one to Bodh Gaya. Dotted with
temples and monasteries, this 2,500-year-
old birthplace of Buddhism lets you
retrace the footsteps of Lord Buddha and
Clockwise from here: the pristine

Jalmandir; Sher Shah Suri’s tomb at
Sasaram; the Barabar caves; and the
Navlakha Palace
Ashish Kaushik
Further in Sasaram is an awe-worthy

At that time, Nalanda University
Move on to the religious example of Indo-Islamic architecture at
was the only international town of Buxar, also known as the tomb of Sher Shah Suri. The exquisite
university. When burned, its library
Vishwamitra Nagari, along tomb is regarded as one of the noblest
was on fire for over five months due specimens of Afghan architecture in the
to the number of books. the banks of river Ganga. country. The octagonal tomb, topped by
The most noteworthy sight a dome standing at the centre of a lake on
regular topographical features here with is clearly the high standing a square stone plinth with domed kiosks,
occasional heaps of forgotten ruins. chhatris at each of its corners, with further
History rings loud in each sight in Bihar
Buxar Fort, one of the ancient stone banks, connected to the mainland
and travellers must follow its sound. testaments erected by King through a wide stone bridge, is truly a
Bihar’s delightful and longstanding Rudra Deo in 1054 AD work of wonder. The tomb of Hassan Shah
relationship with history and heritage can and his son Salim Shah are some other
be found at Kumhrar, where the remains abundance. Patliputra boasts of a glorious architectural monuments of interest here.
of the ancient Patliputra were excavated. path and the ruins at Kumhrar today bear As serenely surprising as Bihar is,
Ancient ruins here, along with relics also testimony to the fact. Excavations over the oldest surviving rock-cut caves in
include an 80-pillared assembly hall. The the years have been a delight for the the country, located in the twin hills
site is a testimony to the state’s cultural lovers of archaeology. of Barabar and Nagarjuni hills, are an
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
A Madhubani painting; and (facing page) the Golghar in Patna
Wildlife Sanctuary, also known as the presented by the Mithila culture to the
overwhelming sight. Created during the various cultures of the state. Move on to Rajgir Wildlife Sanctuary, in Nalanda. The Mithila culture gained world. The Mithila culture of the Maithili
Maurya reign, they were dedicated to the Although the state speaks multiple the religious town of Buxar, also known as With various illustrations and auspicious prominence as early as the Vedic speakers gives the true essence of cul-
Ajivaka Cult, later extensively used by languages depicting varied Vishwamitra Nagari, along the banks of existence of hammocks from the Buddha period and is one of the oldest in tural richness. Noted to wear a 'paag' as a
linguistic cultures, Bhojpuri is the country.
monks belonging to this sect. Much like river Ganga. The most noteworthy sight is and Jain era, this sanctuary is spread symbol of honour and respect and a sig-
leading amid them.
the state’s various trails, the caves tell clearly the high standing Buxar Fort, one across 36 sq km and has some history nificant part of the culture, these people
the history of their time along with the of the ancient testaments erected by King in itself. Enriched with dense tropical region, it was established in 1987 to ensure love their art. With initial references in the
multiple cults and clans involved in their Situated in the town of Rajnagar near Rudra Deo in 1054 AD. forestry on the hills, the sanctuary hosts the preservation of migratory birds. The Hindu epic of Ramayana, the cultural sig-
centuries of existence. Madhubani, is the Navlakha palace. the likes of wild boars, nilgais, langurs, Kanwar Lake is known to be the largest nificance of Madhubani paintings is be-
Built in the 17th century AD by Maharaja The Wild Side and pythons alongside species of large freshwater oxbow lake in Asia. It is home yond doubt one of the most pristine ones
Birds have a different Rameshwar Singh of Darbhangha, the Bihar’s fertile fields and green forests on mammals, birds and reptiles, many of to settler bird varieties as well as migratory in the country. The paintings illustrated
palace neighbours the Kamala River the banks of the river Ganga host some of which are endangered. ones. Keep an eye on the ground here to the thoughts, hopes, and dreams of the
habitat altogether in the that hosts a marble temple of goddess the wildest beasts in their habitats. For those looking to escape the city, find musk deer, leopards and black bears women who later began making them.
state at the Kanwar Lake Kali. Another temple of goddess Durga In the Terai region of the Shivalik Hills, Ghora Katora, a lush, nature-bound water living in complete harmony. Traditionally made on the base of plas-
Bird Sanctuary. One of the forms an integral part of the palace and is spread over an area of 880 sq km, the reservoir near Rajgir is a serene escape. tered mud walls, they were later replaced
still operational. Valmiki Tiger Reserve is home to tigers, Situated amid mountains, it is frequented Art and Culture by handmade paper, cloth, and canvas.
greenest parts in the region, Moving on to Nalanda, the Jal Mandir— leopards, flying foxes, flying squirrels, by the young and old alike. It is believed Bihar is as rich in culture, as it is in Often charac-
it was established in 1987 to meaning water temple—also known as wild cats, langurs, sloth bears, antelopes, that the horses of the kings of Rajgir used history and spirituality. Present in the terised by com-
ensure the preservation of Apapuri, in Pawapuri—meaning a town different species of birds and a variety of to drink water here. What also makes this region is the history of music including plex geometrical
without sins—makes a highly revered reptiles and butterflies. Travellers can escape unique is the fact that fuelled classical Hindustani and folk, along with patterns, these
migratory birds. The Kanwar feature. The temple, dedicated to Lord indulge in safaris at the Valmiki Tiger vehicles are not allowed here, engulfing dance forms such as Kathak and Kha- paintings are ex-
Lake is known to be the Mahavira—the 24th Thirthankara (religious Reserve at Rampur, or go trekking and visitors with an air of tranquility. jri. Culture in Bihar is a celebration of a emplary sights
largest freshwater oxbow preacher of Jainism)—is nothing short birdwatching, or even pull off a full-moon Birds have a different habitat altogether history dating back to the Vedic times. of Bihar’s cultural
of astonishing. It boasts of marvellous visit, which is quite the experience. in the state at the Kanwar Lake Bird Delving into the world of art are Mad- history that one
lake in Asia architecture and the integration of the On the other side, lies the Pant Sanctuary. One of the greenest parts in the hubani paintings, the most precious gift must explore.
explore
explore
↓ The famous
Vitthala Temple
Regulars
48 ***
Lasting
***
Lap of
***
Tales of
History Nature People
h a mp i
h a mp i
Royalty, empires, Rivers, lakes, and Hippies, adventure
and ruins greenery lovers, and ascetics
48
hampi
ode to
ruins
the
Happiness is found in the unlikeliest of
places, and sometimes it’s found within.
The ruins of Hampi were a catalyst to this
introspection. Text and photographs by
r a n g e e t gh o s h
I
WILL NEVER FORGET country, speaking in different
explore
explore
KOSUKE. I met him on accents of Hinglish; hashish-
my wanderings through smoking hippies from all over
the capital of the old the world; there was even a
Vijayanagara empire—Hampi. tiny community of Rajwada
Conquered, pillaged and people, with their kurtas with
destroyed, Hampi has stood dhoti and turbans, and long red
h a mp i
h a mp i
the assaults of invading armies ghagras with silver jewellery.
and time alike. Kosuke’s story
D
was much the same. A Japanese ON ’T WORRY,” THEY
man, he quit his high-paying SAID. “Be HAMPI.”
job, divorced his wife, and left Zipping across the lonely
his children to come to India in roads on a rented scooter,
the pursuit of happiness. Along meditating with sadhus, or
the way, he lost an arm, gained marvelling at the architectural
a pacemaker, learnt Hindi, and masterpieces of a civilisation
traversed the country doing long gone, Hampi was quite
odd jobs and singing about the celluloid dream. I spent
Shiva. He did, however, find my days exploring the temple
his happiness. complexes—from Vitthala
But Kosuke wasn’t the only to Virupaksha—or simply
person I met in Hampi. It was watching Laxmi, the resident
like a melting pot of cultures. elephant of the Virupaksha
Lungi-clad men and women Temple taking a bath in the
with flowers in their hair; Tungabhadra River. I spent my
students and backpackers nights down by the Sanapur
from different parts of the Lake, gazing up at the starlit sky
↓ A coracle ↑ A modern
ferrying sadhu on a
passengers moped in
across the his leopard-
Tungabhadra printed lungi
↖ Ruins of the
Lotus Temple
in the Zenana
Enclosure
↓ The ruins of a
explore
market frozen
with the Beatles and Simon and Garfunkel in time, outside
to keep me company. Vitthala Temple
The place had a mystic aura about it,

E
but I couldn’t exactly pinpoint what it

was. Maybe it was the tales of the fabled
Vanara Kingdom of Kishkinda, where
map ri
the brothers Bali and Sugriva fought. Or

maybe, it was the beautiful boulder-strewn
hual
landscape intercepted by bright green

R e g
paddy fields. But there was something in

the air of Hampi that liberated me of all
my inhibitions and made me feel small,
insignificant...and free. T
Conquered, pillaged and destroyed, Hampi has stood

the assaults of invading armies and time alike
explore
explore
Zipping across the lonely roads on a rented scooter,
meditating with sadhus, or marvelling at the
architectural masterpieces of a civilisation long
h a mp i
h a mp i
gone, Hampi was quite the celluloid dream
↖ The surreal ↓ Basking → Carving

boulder- under the of a dancing
strewn sun after a woman in
landscape of cool dip in the queen’s
Hampi the lake palace
← Kosuke ↓ Stone idol

shows off his of a Hindu god
pacemaker abandoned
and Shiva in the
tattoo Tungabhadra
Explore
Explore
56
Regulars
56
bhutan
*** *** ***
In In In
bh u ta n
bh u ta n
Nature Togetherness Devotion
Mountains, valleys, Adventure, pilgrimage, Monks, monasteries,
and views and leisure and prayers
tigress
the flying
Standing in front of 11,000 feet above sea level, Taktsang paths crossing each others’.
punakha complemented its legend. Throughout the trek, our trusty Sherab
dzong
chewed on betel nuts, never once losing his
armed
breath. We, on the other hand, were huffing
and puffing away. The guides around us
Its mighty white walls, intricate red- eventually formed a collective of sorts,
with bamboo sticks
patterned roofs, wood carvings, and encouraging each other’s patrons through
the calmness that enveloped the entire We set out for the 12-kilometre uphill trek. the trek. It was quite easy to spot the
atmosphere of the monastic fort The greenery of the base was short-lived, as locals amid the swarms of tourists. Men in
complex, made time stand still. It was the barren mountainous terrain soon took kimono-style ghos and women in wrap-
the penultimate day of my week-long over. The trail was scant, and loose soil and around keras effortlessly made their way up
adventure in Bhutan. rolling stones marked just enough room the steep slopes.
After a scenic four-hour drive to Paro, for two people, this was also a bridle path. Nearly two hours had passed and we had
my guide Sherab Dorjee greeted us with a Occasionally, a horse or two could be seen lost count of how many times we paused.
cheery “kuzo zangpo la.” Braving the chilly carrying the elderly up to the cafeteria, “Come come, just a little bit more,” Sherab
October winds, my friends and I set off for halfway to the monastery. egged us on. “We’ll reach the rock there and
the base of the Taktsang trek. The prayer flags fluttering in the wind stop,” he promised. By giving us incentives
The aura and mystery that surrounded formed a canopy of myriad colours above to keep walking and setting his own mini-
the Taktsang—or Tiger’s Nest—Monastery us as the bright sun shone down on the goals, he kept us on our feet. Which was
had me hooked on Sherab’s narrative. rolling valley of Paro beyond the edge. After just as well because if we sat, our knees
On a trek in search of the hanging In his heavy Bhutanese accent, he an hour of trekking with no monastery might lock and go numb. Although tired
monastery, explained the age-old saga of how in sight, the true expanse of the Himalaya and in pain, the sun-kissed mountain
Guru Padmasambhava flew to the site began to dawn on me. You could be an views didn’t escape me. The birds were
on the back of a tigress from Thimphu adventure junkie seeking the adrenaline chirping, there was a faint chanting in
↗ The steps
leading up to
t r i n e t r a pa u l to meditate. The monastery has been rush, a tourist wanting to visit the revered the background, the guides were chatting
the Taktsang dedicated to him ever since. shrine, or a devotee on an enterprise for around us, but it was a sublime mysticism
Monastery finds herself scaling a mountain, her Hidden behind a wall of clouds at blessings, the journey was the same, our that kept creeping over me. I had to see
fears, and getting a new perspective
56
se p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0 outlook traveller 57
where Guru Padmasambhava’s tigress hands. The children, who were earlier New Jalpaiguri and in through the
Explore
Explore
rested and lived. We crisscrossed down the running around, joined their parents in Phuensholing Border. This permit only
wooden planks, more than a little scared. prayer. Devotion and spirituality mingled allows you to visit Paro and Thimphu.
But after all that trekking all that way, with nature in its purest form here. To venture beyond, you must acquire
there was no question of missing this part It was 5pm when we returned to our van, a ‘special area permit’ from the Royal
of my spiritual adventure. exhausted after trekking for nearly nine Government of Bhutan Immigration Office
The atmosphere was enveloped by the hours. The Taktsang Trek brought a myriad in Thimphu. It is also possible to arrange
bh u ta n
bh u ta n
loud hymns of the grey-cloaked devotees. of people together, and the Bhutanese the visa from Kolkata at the Royal Bhutan
Spreading straw mats, they sat in front hospitality wove them into one. Consulate Office.
of the main altar and prayed with folded
wait *
It was only in 1974 that Bhutan
started tourism. Before that, no
leisure travel was allowed
Spreading straw mats, There’s more
they sat in front of the In Paro, apart from the Taktsang Trek,
main altar and prayed Bhutan can be reached via direct and you can drive to Chelela Pass and visit
connecting flights from almost all major the National Museum of Bhutan. Bhutan
with folded hands. The
cities in India. International flights are also is famous for its wooden souvenirs like
children, who were earlier available to Paro International Airport. For a wooden darts, wall hangings, masks and
running around, joined better experience, try getting a window seat mythical figurines, and also traditional
their parents in prayer. on the right side while going, and on the left hand-painted ceramic wares. The capital
Devotion and spirituality on your return journey to catch a glimpse of city is well known for exquisite handmade
↑ A monk the Everest peak. gho and kera. They can range from
at Punakha mingled with nature in its
You can also drive through India with thousands to a few lakh in price depending
Dzong
purest form here an ‘entry permit’ via West Bengal, through on the weaving, material, and detailing. T
→ The hanging
monastery
the hanging monastery. It was simply The birds were chirping, deposited our phones and cameras, took
non-negotiable. off our shoes, and went inside the revered
there was a faint chanting
Taktsang Monastery.
in the background, the With our hotels just a drive away, re-discover holidays in a whole
new way with a selection of handpicked offers available across all
It was three hours guides were chatting
later
our Marriott International properties in India.
around us, but it was a We were Recharge, Revive and Refresh in Style.
We were halfway up, nearly at the cafeteria.

sublime mysticism that greeted STAY MORE
kept creeping over me. by monks EXCLUSIVE INCLUSIONS THAT REDEFINE
There was a young lady serving tea and
biscuits and tourists bee-lined for the
empty chairs. It was an intergenerational,
I had to see the hanging
monastery. It was simply
Tending to the butter lamps or brooming
the premises, they were also talking to
EARN MORE YOUR STAYCATION EXPERIENCE
Staycations with endless experiences...

international conference, of sorts. There non-negotiable the guests or silently praying. Essential
Upgrade to higher
Breakfast included Kids stay free Pick-up and drop
were Buddhist devotees from Myanmar to Buddhist custom, the butter lamps
All you have to do is check-in category room
Special evenings curated In-room movie experience

in grey religious cloaks and straw hats, a photo-spot was Sherab’s next proposed must never die out. Time stood by like an Cake and bottle of wine by chefs for occasions with snacks and beverages
professional trekkers with equipment, mini-goal. We gave in and set out for the onlooker as the humdrum of the world
elderly folks on a post-retirement trip, last leg of our climb. ceased to exist atop this mountain.
BOOKING DATES: UP TO 31ST OCTOBER, 2020
honeymooning couples, and young friends A few kilometres into the trek we Built in the typical Bhutanese style STAY DATES: VALID TILL 31ST DECEMBER, 2020
like us, all huddled together, sharing came across the Taktsang Zangdo Pari, of architecture, the monastery, with its
photographs. Differences didn’t exist in or the caretaker’s house. It was where beautiful floral motifs, hung loosely from For bookings and information visit: www.staycaywithmarriott.com
light of the enterprise ahead. Padmasambhava’s wife—called the ‘Fairy the mountain cliff. I couldn’t wrap my
of Wisdom’—lived. She, Yeshe Tshogyal, had head around how they constructed it back Zero cancellation charges.
*
Gho and kera are the national founded the Mon, or the Taktsang Convent. in the day. Sherab told us that a massive
garments of Bhutan. All woollens are
worn underneath them Today, an old nun and her young apprentice fire broke out in 1998 that destroyed large
act as the caretaker. parts of the complex. The restoration went
I could see the monastery in the distance, Miraculously, the path had gotten even on for two years before the monastery
could even touch it if I closed one eye. narrower. Soon, true to his word, Sherab was reopened.
The clouds had passed from the front unveiled a breathtaking view of the Just when we were soaking up the
*ADDITIONAL POINTS FOR BONVOY MEMBERS
to form a halo behind it. The only things monastery. Hanging from the edge of the breathtaking view and the serenity of the FOR EVERY NIGHT OF STAY.
that separated me from it were three hours mountain, it almost appeared to blend in holy place, Sherab took us into a cave deep *T&C apply.
and some 700-odd steps. The promise of with nature. We climbed a few more steps, underground—the actual Tiger’s Nest—
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
The Land
of Plenty
Replete with natural beauty, vibrant culture and sublime spirituality,
Rani ki Vav is an
ancient 11th-
century seven-
storeyed step well
Gujarat is a paradise for travellers of varying tastes and interests located by the
Saraswati River
B
e one with nature and drainage system, granaries and many
Witness the Indus Valley
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
experience wildlife at its best in wonders of the civilisation that rose
the national parks, soak up the to prominence around 3300 BCE can civilisation unfurl before Entrance to the
Jain temples on the
rich culture and heritage at the be found here. The civilisation pushes you at the towns of Lothal Shatrunjaya Hill, in
numerous century-old monuments and the recorded history of India by almost
and Dholavira. The brilliant Palitana, Bhavnagar;
and (facing page) the
historical sites, or be a part of the legacy 200 years. As part of one of the most
of Mahatma Gandhi at his birthplace advanced civilisations, the towns have township planning, the Aina Mahal, in Bhuj
and ashram, the splendour of Gujarat seals that show the then international ancient drainage system,
is abundant. trade relations that were carried out from and granaries from 3300
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
Located on the extreme west of India, Gujarat’s ports.
the state is laced with beautiful beaches Ancient India boasts of some BCE can be found here
and rolling hills that make for some fun unimaginable architectural wonders,
eco-tourism spots. The pristine white and buildings that define engineering found in the city of Patan. Rani ki Vav is
sands of the Rann of Kutch makes a marvels. One such specimen can be an ancient 11th-century seven-storeyed
desert of unparalleled beauty. All of this, step well located by the Saraswati River. A
peppered with vibrant and colourful Unesco World Heritage Site, the well was
Vadodara is also home to yet another
festivals and culture, you simply cannot constructed by Queen Udayamti, wife of
brilliant historical monument, the
miss out on Gujarat. the Chalukya dynasty king Bhima I after
Laxmivilas Palace. Built in the
Indo-Saracenic style, the palace his death. The well has beautiful intricate
Old World Charm dates back to 1890. Known to be the carvings of over 800 deities and is built to
Witness the ruins of the flourishing Indus largest private dwelling property, its use the river water to supply cool air. The
Valley civilisation unfurl before you at size is estimated to be four times that revered Somnath Temple is located just
the towns of Lothal and Dholavira. The of Buckingham Palace. a few kilometres from Patan. A holy site
brilliant township planning, the ancient of pilgrimage for Hindus, the temple is a
magnificent example of architecture with tall statue of Sardar Vallabhai Patel—is the cradle of the Dandi March, Gujarat white saltpans make up the largest is the Polo Monument in Vijaynagar. station of Saputara is the quaint getaway
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
intricate detailing and exquisite carvings. a major attraction here. Built over five breathes in the essence and principles salt marshes in India. The salt desert Don’t be taken aback by the word, the that you might be looking for. Flanked by
The Champaner-Pavagadh years and completed in 2018, the statue left by the Father of the Nation. His is home to a number of endangered name derives from a Marwari word ‘Pol’ the Sahyadri Hills, Saputara offers some
Archeological Park, another Unesco is a huge symbol of unity, peace and ashram at Sabarmati and his home in animals, like the nilgai. If you are meaning gate. A hike to the monument beautiful hiking trails, rapid waterfalls
World Heritage Site, is home to strength that symbolises the country. Porbandar are places that will take you looking for some fun try the golf cart, through the forest would take you to as well as a wide range of flora and
magnificent forts, mosques, temples and The birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi, down the yesteryears, which saw the ATV ride, camel cart excursion and the Gujarat-Rajasthan border, a region fauna. So, if you’re the one looking for
exquisite architecture, which is bound to rise of Indian freedom struggle. Even paramotoring while you soak up the rich marked by extreme conditions. adventure and fun along with relaxation,
leave you astounded. Located around
The mosques, temples today the Sabarmati Ashram continues to Gujarati culture. Visit during the winter Right next to the Thar desert, you head to the hills for the right kind
45 kilometres from Vadodara, the city of follow his teachings and serve the nation months—November to February—to might think Gujarat has nothing ‘cool’ to of rejuvenation.
and exquisite architecture
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
Champaner, founded in the 8th century, in their own way. witness the grand carnival and revelry offer. Hold that thought. The pristine hill One of the longest and pivotal dams in
was forgotten during the colonial times. here is bound to leave that is the Rann Utsav. Bright colourful India, the Sardar Sarovar Dam is a major
Today, the lush forests surrounding the
you astounded. Located Time for Adventure traditional performances, musicals,
With one of the longest coastlines
spot for eco-tourism. Built across the
fort and the various monuments make it If you are looking for something fun shows, dances and many other activities Narmada River, the place is visited by
a treat for travellers wanting a peek into near Vadodara, the city of and challenging, Gujarat has everything unfurl throughout these four months. Try
in India, Gujarat is home to a number
of pristine beaches. A beautiful millions to experience the scenic beauty
the ancient times. Champaner, founded in the you need. From forests to beaches, hill to stay overnight during a full moon to azure sea, loose white sands and a from the top of the dam. The gallons
When in Gujarat, one cannot miss
8th century, was forgotten stations to deserts, the state has it all. catch the Rann in its glittering glory. plethora of activities, Mandvi is one of water stored on one side and the
the city of Vadodara. The recently-built The Rann of Kutch is, undoubtedly, Situated in northern Gujarat and of the most prominent ones. incredible roar when the barges are lifted
Statue of Unity—a mammoth 182 metre- during the colonial times a must visit. Boundless stretches of tucked away amidst some dense forests make for a splendid sight.
Clockwise from here: the

magnificent Giradhodh
Waterfalls in Saputara;
the ruins of Bhuj; and the
archaeological site of Dholavira
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
Visit the expansive
Rann of Kutch during
the winter months—
November to February—
to witness the grand
carnival and revelry that
is the Rann Utsav
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
Boundless stretches of white saltpans make up the largest
salt marshes in India. The salt desert is home to a number of
endangered animals, including the nilgai
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
TRAVE L
TRAVE L
Clockwise from here: the
majestic Asiatic lion; a
traditional Gujarati thali;
and mango shrikhand
Wild Wild West Sarovar Bird Sanctuary is located just Gujarati snacks like thepla, handvo, Indulge in some traditional and chopped vegetable salad served
Being very close to the coast, a khakra, fafda, dhokla and many others
Moving over historical places, natural about 65 kilometres off the capital city
small community of the Kharwas Gujarati snacks like thepla, raw or steamed with spices.
beauty and eco-tourism, the bounty of of Ahmedabad. It receives hundreds while sipping on some cool and Dry sweets and those made from
exotic wildlife that the state has to offer of migratory birds like Siberian cranes, has developed a taste for seafood
refreshing masala chaas or buttermilk. handvo, khakra, fafda, coconut, jaggery and mangoes like
dhokla and many others
like prawns, pomfrets, etc.
will leave you speechless. For all the pelicans, herons, and flamingoes. Native One of the prominent shops to buy doodhpak, mohanthal, shrikhand and
wildlife enthusiasts and shutterbugs, to the sanctuary are about 210 species these snacks is Annadiben Shop, which
while sipping on some cool laddoos are a staple. Most of these
you have just entered the land of the of birds and mammals along with Marine National Park is a repository of has outlets all over the state. Also don’t are made during special festivals and
Asiatic lion. various flora species. Walk around the some intriguing marine animals, corals forget to try the traditional Gujarati thali. It and refreshing masala occasions but can be easily found in
Gir National Park is the home to the entire area for a wholesome experience and plants. Filled with sea sponges, comes with a couple of fried or steamed chaas or buttermilk any restaurant.
largest population of Asiatic lions in and be surrounded by incessant anemones, fish, turtles, and urchins, the snacks called farsans, a green vegetable With the palate
India. Spread over an area of 1,412 sq chirping of birds. Marine National Park is a must-visit for all dish, a tuber or gourd dish, a braised thick bajra rotlas, thin wheat rotlis, crispy changing every
km, it is home to over 20 lions, nilgais, Located off the coast of Dwarka, the nature lovers. pulse or bean dish called kathol, among whole wheat flour rotis known as bakhris, few kilometres,
deer, large numbers of birds and other others. Gujarati kadhi is a yogurt-based parathas, savoury spiced breads called Gujarat has a
animals. You can book safaris and enter Chow Down lentil soup, which is common with the thepla, and deep-fried puris. There are wide-spread buffet
the core area for splendid sightings of Coming to Gujarat and not trying rotla and will be accompanied by chutti also variations like methi thepla or masala to spoil travellers
the royal beasts. the local fare is like missing half the dal, vaal, or mag ni dal. puri in these. The thali comes with sweet, and visitors
A haven for bird lovers, the Nal experience. Indulge in some traditional The thali also comes with breads like sour and spicy chutneys, pickles, ghee in every way.
Regulars
70 savouring
EAT
EAT
paradise
Cakes!
eat
eat
These cakes are everything you’d expect from
a beach vacation—for a fraction of the price
Modern cakes continue to stir our imagination
and just when you think you’ve seen it all,
sabyasachi gorai 72 there’s an all-new fad on the feed. The latest
• to join the list of viral food trends is the jelly
island cake. Bakers from around the world
comorin 73 have been sharing photos of cakes that look
like tropical islands. While the ocean is made of
eat
• gelatin, the island is made of sponge cake. For
some it looked yum, while for others, it was
u n dhiy u 75 feeding their wanderlust with colourful corals
and sandy beaches. This little edible paradise—
baked in a cylindrical shape and carved with
intricate detail to mirror the looks and vibe of
the beachside—boasts of multiple layers of
chocolate. While the blue ocean is recreated
with a jelly mix, crumbled cookies, and nuts,
Travel one chocolate ganache makes the corals, plants,
bite at a time and ruins on the edible seabed, adding a slice of
marine life to this miniature island.
� Add the corals, shells and other finer details
to the cake before the jelly hardens
Travel
Regulars
menu Sabyasachi Gorai
72 Cooks American Birds
EAT
EAT
ambassador for the Great Indian Turkey only does it have a gamey flavour, it’s meatier,
in t e r v i e w
s
at
Challenge, I did a lot of work with turkey. and gives a very high yield.
ew
Last year, I did a poultry programme in
R e vi e
Atlanta with Chef Chris and created a lot of � Even the desserts were special. Not
Indian recipes. So I am also pouring in all of only did the chocolate mousse with
that experience into this. Old Monk pack a punch, it heaved
with nostalgia. How important is
memory for you as a chef?
� Are turkey and duck amenable to
all-day dining
A Desi Touch
Indian cuisine? Storytelling is an important part of my food.
Both duck and turkey work beautifully with Without that, I feel the food is incomplete.
Indian cuisine. Once deboned, turkey meat One cannot experience the food 100% or, let’s
can be used for boneless dishes, and also say, the way it needs to be, without a story.
C
made into a keema. The boneless pieces can — amit dix it omorin brings together a restaurant, bar, café
and a curated market, all under one roof. The design,
� What spirits or wines would you a blend of retro-futuristic installations and modest,
suggest pairing the menu with? Chef Recommends traditional touches creates a stylish, contemporary and
For the kababs and keema khari Gorai’s favourite picks from relaxed ambience. The ‘Green Room’ on the other end of
I strongly suggest cocktails, the ‘Savour the Flavour Menu’ the restaurant, caters to those who have their heart set on a
something along the lines of the more intimate dining experience. With a menu that boasts
jamun cocktail, a part of ‘Savour Duck Mussalman of an Indian-casual selection—a space much harder to
Illustration: Chitvan Patel the Flavour: US Poultry & Eggs with
Desi Tadka’. The jungle maas works
Biryani crack than the mainstream fine dining—Comorin does not
With a plump duck leg as its conform to a template. Chefs Manish Mehrotra and Dhiraj
With chicken, duck, and turkey great with white wine or white
Dargan, the brains behind this all-day dining restaurant,
spirits. Our duck mussalman biryani centrepiece, this fragrant biryani
from the US, Chef Sabyasachi comes laced with caramelised tirelessly style every recipe to deliver the decadent dishes.
and chicken ghee roast are best
Gorai has been cooking up a onions and tastes as authentic Enhanced by a mix of spices, the Andhra gongura chicken,
paired with matured red wines,
feathery storm at his Deli for a whiskies and malts. as they come bhetki paturi with Bengali khichdi and plastic chutney,
select few. We got a taste prawn curry with dried red mango, red rice and appalam
and the Champaran meat with sattu paratha and ole ki
� What was the experience of chutney, particularly stand out. I find myself going for
cooking with American poultry seconds while relishing the carefully crafted bheja fry
meats like? and khasta roti. The raan musallam with fried aloo, baked
It was amazing. Not only is the quality of the garlic, and mewa pulao is also worth trying. The dessert
meat great, the packaging is also hygienic menu is a whirlwind of flavours. I settled for the humble
and tamper-proof. Upon thawing, the meat cheeni malai toast. The crispiness of the toast juxtaposing
was plump, had a beautiful pink colour, and the malai is a fitting ending to a delightfully atypical meal.
smelled exactly like fresh meat. Not a single Jungle Maas Currently, the restaurant is open for dine-in only from
bird has any scratches. What impressed me ↑ For Duckshin Delight (Kerala duck
This fiery Indian classic, which Wednesday to Sunday.
breast stew) I would suggest dry
the most was that every single bird weighed white wine keeps the hunting tradition of —rupali dean
the same, which then gave me the same the maharajas alive, gets an
yield for the dishes each time. American twist with turkey leg
slow cooked in an earthen pot
Comorin
be turned into nice boti pieces that most X gurugram
� How familiar are you with these Indians like to use. The great quality of duck
Just when you think Indian cuisine is
ingredients? breast lends itself to mild Indian curries, getting too predictable, Comorin’s
I have been working with US poultry for especially southern and eastern ones. The brilliance leaves you poring over a
the last three years and so am very familiar duck leg works for classic dishes such as the selection of unusual flavours
*
with the ingredients. We have done the duck biryani we prepare at Saby’s Deli. Do not miss the mutton seekh � Comorin, 101, 1st Floor, Plaza Level,
turkey challenge previously. We have kabab doused in butter and Two Horizon Center, Golf Course Road
scoop it up with Kashmiri roti
worked with the chicken at Byg Brewski, � How is American chicken different • Wed–Sun 1.00pm–10.00pm
Bengaluru and currently at Saby’s Deli from our good ol’ broiler? ← Comorin pav vada with garlic chutney
we only use US chicken. Being the brand The meat is of a much superior quality. Not
74
updates What’s hot in the food world? Gujarati
Undhiyu
I
t is no surprise that Gujaratis are
global adventures for the desi palate
EAT
EAT
known for their love for travel
and exceptional quest for food. With
something to please everyone’s palate,
the state lives up to the proverb
r e ci p e
‘variety is the spice of life’. Unlike
Uncharted other Indian cuisines, where spices

play a dominant role, Gujarati cuisine
Territories is known for its subtlety. An eclectic
th e
India blend of flavours, the crown jewel of a
As the second season of the National Gujarati thali, undhiyu is the ultimate
Geographic series Uncharted hits the miscellany of vegetables. The dish
small screens, it has left the multi- derives its name from the Gujarati
Michelin Star chef Gordon Ramsay’s word ‘undhu’ meaning inverse,
loyal fanbase in a frenzy. According to
owing to its preparation
curators of the India episode, Anurag
in an inverted clay pot.
Mallick and Priya Ganapathy, the
challenge was to see how India would Cooked to perfection
measure up against an expansive on a gentle flame, it is
global ensemble. In the latest season, best enjoyed with puri
Ramsay can be seen unlocking the and aamras.
complex flavours of South India, one
spice at a time.
� Catch all the episodes of Gordon
Ramsay: Uncharted on Disney+Hotstar
courtesy: anurag mallick
This
CoCo Curry
Gurugram traditional
If you’re craving for a bit of tonkatsu then maybe a pit-stop at Gurugram is all you need Gujarati curry
for now. Japanese curry restaurant CoCo Ichibanya recently opened its first outlet
in India. While the ultimate curry battle between the Japanese and Indian variations
is an absolute
seems to be never ending, Ichibanya is adapting to the Indian culture, whereby their must-have
beef and pork dishes will be replaced with chicken and seafood. The menu also caters
to vegetarians. Patrons have the option to customise their toppings and spice level.
Undhiyu is extremely
popular along the
during festivals
� Cost for two `800 coastline in Surat,
Navsari and Valsad.
Ellora in the Gulf This seasonal curry

is prepared upside down ginger paste and salt
dubai underground in earthen → Mix well and use it to fill the slits
Michelin Star chef Vikas Khanna launched pots called matlu.
→ Fry the muthias in a kadhai till → In a large bowl prepare a mixture
his new restaurant ‘Ellora By Vikas golden brown of Surti vaal, yam, tuver dal and the
Khanna’ at the JA Beach Hotel, Dubai, remaining coconut-coriander masala
→ Take 1/2 cup peeled baby potatoes,
and it’s all set to replace his signature Recipe for Surti Undhiyu
restaurant ‘Kinara by Vikas Khanna’. The an unripe banana, 2 eggplants and → Heat oil in a pressure cooker, add
latter will remain temporarily closed. → For the muthias, soak fenugreek make a vertical slit 1/4 tbsp carom seeds and sauté
This collaboration with the UAE-based leaves in water with a pinch of salt → Prepare a coconut-coriander until they crackle. Add a pinch
hospitality giant is being labelled as a masala by adding chilli powder, of asafoetida, baking soda and
→ Add 1/4 cup whole wheat flour,
‘seasonal culinary experience’, inspired sugar, grated coconut, coriander potatoes and eggplants
gram flour, 1 tsp chilli powder, 2 1/2
by the traditional flavours of India. The tsp ginger and green chilli paste, 1/4 leaves, green garlic, cumin and → Cover it with the lid and let the
latest venture is all about rustic, earthy tsp turmeric powder, sugar, baking coriander powder, green chilli and vegetables cook *
flavours and offers a gourmet experience. soda, 1 1/2 tsp olive oil and water → Add the bananas and fried muthias
The new menu will feature seasonal and cook till the bananas are tender.
→ Knead this mixture into a dough. * Switch off after two whistles
star ingredients like green mango, Stir occasionally
Divide into equal parts and roll and allow the steam to release
passionfruit and watermelon.
them into balls → Garnish with coriander leaves
� [email protected]
The French
↓ Layered
name. I expressed my condolences, but had
Travel menu Ratatouille
76
the sneaky feeling that I am supposed to
EAT
EAT
Connection
know of Paul, and about Paul, and I am just
not getting it.
The next day, after our official
engagements were over, we rushed to the
train station, our host urging us to make
haste, as the town was shut due to the
T
he interminable lockdowns and ↓ Chef visit to the city of Lyon. The historical city demise of some celebrity. We managed to
work from homes have spawned Tetedoie was a visual delight. We were treated to a catch the train, just in time. After I settled
at work
myriad chefs all over the world. Social dinner made and presented beautifully by down in my seat, I courteously nodded
media is flooded with pictures of delicacies celebrated chef Christian Tetedoie. While at my neighbour. He was a distinguished
prepared by these budding chefs. Getting his signature dishes involved lobsters gentleman, dressed in a flamboyant grey
your cookbook out, and dishing up and heads of calves, I was happy with suit of the highest quality. His leather-
something fancy is a great way to beat the the asparagus and mushroom creation trimmed fedora, resting casually on his
lockdown blues, nevermind the waistline. he artfully presented as our entrée. The knee, and his checkered green scarf seemed
Just like visual and performing artists need restaurant itself was perched on a hill, and to have been homed, recently until then, in
an appreciative audience, food artists need provided a magnificent view of the entire a high end store on the Champs-Élysées. As
connoisseur patrons. Not being blessed by city at night. The chef’s fame was such that the train sped smoothly towards Paris, we
the muse either in performing or culinary the ‘gastronomique’ restaurant itself was struck up a conversation. He was in Lyon,
arts, I try to redeem myself by being a good named ‘Tetedoie’. The greatest indulgence The chef’s fame was such that the ‘gastronomique’ he told me, to attend the funeral of the
patron. The problem these days is, it is much of the evening for us was the chef himself, restaurant itself was named ‘Tetedoie’. The greatest celebrity chef, Paul Bocuse. “Ah! Tetedoie’s
*
harder to beat the blues by the memory of The cuisine created by Chef who came and chatted with us. He mourned
Tetedoie is inspired by regional indulgence of the evening for us was the chef himself, Paul,” I realised. “Are you in the food
comfort food. Be that as it may, that is what the loss of his guide and mentor, Paul. He business yourself?” I asked. “No,” he replied,
I must do—remember good food times, and
produce and is rooted in tradition
searched my face when he mentioned the
who came and chatted with us a little taken aback. Turned out, he was a
derive my comfort from that warm memory. successful businessman.
↑ Chef Tetedoie’s ↓ Perched on ↑ Fellow traveller
Every culture celebrates its food with signature lobster Fouvière Hill, on the way back to My neighbour pointed to the colourful
enthusiasm and vigour. Actually, food is is exquisite ‘Tetedoie’ is a Paris after visiting pin he was sporting on his lapel. The pin
culture. I sometimes get the opportunity vantage point Bocuse’s funeral had the figure of the chef himself and the
to take out some time during my travels, French colours on a banner in the backdrop.
from my work engagements, and sample By now, I was intrigued. I asked him if
what the host state or country has to offer. Bocuse could be the same person who
My only (some might say, huge) limitation Tetedoie was alluding to. Of course, he said,
is that I am a ‘pure vegetarian’, which the whole nation is in mourning. The whole
limits my sampling to a large extent. Folks, country was mourning the passing away of
everywhere that I have been in the world, a chef? He then handed me a small booklet.
have made special efforts to tweak their It was the schedule of the funeral service
native cuisine offering to accommodate of Paul Bocuse, with an obituary published
my food preferences. Purists may laugh by the Unesco, with tributes from heads
at me, saying I have not tasted the real of states, distinguished personalities from
thing. Maybe so. But I have succeeded in all walks of life, and chefs from all over the
accumulating a treasure trove of memories, world. I realised that our visit coincided
both for my taste buds, and my affable soul. with a truly momentous occasion in French
One such sweet memory is from a trip history. The restaurant where he exhibited
to France a couple of years ago. We were his art, and the culinary institute founded
on a learning trip, understanding the by him serve as a pilgrimage site for lovers
institutional and regulatory system for of food from all over the world.
food safety. Every meal that was offered I left the country with a deep
clearly showed the effort that had gone into appreciation for a culture where food, and
serving a balance of tastes to the not-so- its creators are accorded the same reverence
adventurous Indians. After all, cooked and and appreciation as those in the performing
presented the way the French do it, the and visual arts. To be celebrated, replicated
humble eggplant assumes the epicurean with due credit, not plagiarised, and
stature of the Ratatouille! cherished for generations. T
The icing on the macaroon was a brief —pall av i goyal
stay
Regulars
78
Stay
Stay
hotels,
hostels and
Luxury on
The Rocks
nothing like
R e g u l a r
R e g u l a r
home
*
Long after being abandoned to ruin and
vandalism, the fort was eventually Just six kilometres off the Delhi-Jaipur
restored to its former glory, and Highway, Alila Fort Bishangarh is easily
beyond, in a remarkable transformation that
took almost 10 years to plan and complete. accessible—while offering all the isolation
Alila Fort Bishangarh, with 59 stately rooms we need currently. The heritage property
and suites, was fully opened in July 2019. reopens September 30
Bishangarh, Rajasthan
Social distancing comes naturally to me. As an
introvert, I’ve practiced it all my life. That’s why, on my
birthday this year—this was just before the lockdown—I
found myself enjoying the blissful seclusion that only a
230-year-old war fort in Rajasthan can provide. Writing
about it in a world that has changed, perhaps forever, I
can tell the property will thrive.
Before Alila Fort Bishangarh, all the forts I’d stayed
N iraam aya in had belonged decidedly to the ‘heritage’ category.
Retreats 81 You know what I mean; old and impressive, but a little
squidgy around the edges. While Bishangarh is as
• authentic as they come, it’s also a notch above: very
Le Bristol Paris 82 plush, with no mod cons missing. It’s an impressive fort,
rising like a tall confection above its surroundings, and
• lurches into view well before you reach it.
Sum an Nanaiah 83
On arrival, there’s a canopied reception pavilion
below the fort, surrounded by soothing water features.
From here you have the option of walking up (I’d
suggest you leave it for later, when you’re rested) or
being driven to the fort and your rooms.
The rooms are ‘heritage chic’, extremely stylish.
Luxuriating in their sprawling embrace, who would
think this was once a war fort, meant as a lookout
for armies approaching Jaipur from the north.
When battles were fought at nearby Amarsar, the
fort served as a watch, providing advance warning
of invaders. Many parts of it remain rugged and
unfinished, reminders of its military past. The lovingly
reconstructed residential parts are truly royal, a faithful
recreation of the flavours of Shahpura royalty.
If the fort is a sight to behold, the views from it
are equally stunning. Especially from Nazaara,
the open-air restaurant on top, which is all
about the view and dining under the stars. The
cuisine at this restaurant is local and seasonal,
featuring Shekhawat and Bishangarh specialities.
The restaurant also serves hunter cuisine, which
78 august 2020 outlook traveller 79

X Kerala
Rajasthan is famed for, featuring live sandpit and

Niraamaya
Stay
Stay
fire-pit cooking in mud pots. I visited in winter, so

quilts were provided to counter the chilly,
gale-force winds. Retreats Backwaters & Beyond
The meals at Fort Bishangarh, without exception, Kumarakom, 74kms (2 hours) from Cochin
are superlative, much of the produce coming International Airport
R e vi e w
R e g u l a r
from their own extensive kitchen gardens. » 27 luxury villas

Unsurprisingly, my most memorable meal was
lunch at the farm under a tree, preceded by a tour
of the organic garden. The meal, which began with
a simple bhuna aloo chaat, moved on to interesting
rotlas and curries, all to be washed down with
buttermilk in brass tumblers. A repast rustic and
sophisticated in equal measure.
The luxurious pleasures of Bishangarh are guilt
free, as the property has a deep commitment
to sustainability. The restoration, which took
several years, made use of traditional Rajasthani Unwind » The spa’s wellness offerings
construction techniques and local stone, combined include traditional Ayurveda therapies as
well as tailored immersions and yoga.
with the newest architectural trends to create a
comfortable environment, but with a sense of place. Rejuvenate » The plush villas offer
stunning vistas of the backwaters with
Operationally too, the environmental impact has
amenities such as open-air baths and
been contained. According to the property: “Our private balconies.
commitments include minimising greenhouse
gas emissions, energy consumption and pollution;
an in-house waste recycling programme; the use
of indigenous low-water-use plants; as well as
a wastewater management system that recycles
wastewater for irrigation making us trailblazers
among eco-friendly hotels in India.” The passive
solar design of the buildings and the active solar
systems for water heating further the resort’s goal
of a minimal carbon footprint. Inside the fort, rocks
Sojourn » The waterfront retreat lies on the banks of Lake Vembanad, amid
are integrated into the walls and roof to improve
breezy coconut palms and tropical foliage.
insulation. Beyond environmental responsibilities,
Indulge » The all-day dining café, Samsara, serves authentic Kuttanad cuisine
Fort Bishangarh also supports the local community.
along with fresh made-to-order breakfast.
Experiences offered here include interactions
with local artisans, walks in the Aravali hills, camel
cart rides and riverbed horse riding. And they Escape
make the perfect cup of Americano. That pretty
much seals it for me. Take a boat trip in the
-Amit Dixit Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary,
a 5-minute drive from the
property, and spot birds ranging
from the Himalaya to Siberia.

Updates
82
Stay
Stay
Stay
* What was your first hospitality job X Mysuru
and at what age?
Guest Service Associate at 26.
Meet The
General
R e g u l a r
* How would you describe your
personal leadership style?
Manager
Integrity, clear communication, goal-
setting and employee motivation.
* One drink/dish travellers should

not miss at The Metropole? Royal Orchid
X Paris Our wide variety of succulent kebabs at
the Tiger Trail Restaurant. If looking for a Hotels Mysuru’s
Bespoke Elegance combination then the achari murgh tikka
with our in-house cocktail, Caipirojka. Suman Nanaiah
The latest additions focus on elegance,
sophistication and traditional artistry
* What steps is the property taking
Le Bristol Paris now has a contemporary walk-in closet and a private outdoor orange trees, focuses on environmental to ensure sustainability? Embracing challenges as they
touch to its rooms and suites. The spa. This marks the completion of the consciousness and sustainability. Staff retention, recycling and waste come, Suman Nanaiah prides
refurbishments range from embroiled property’s multi-phase renewal. The » The property reopened on September 1 reduction management, sourcing local and herself in curating out-of-the
draperies at the French doors, to an en renovated garden with plush drawing • Located near the Rue du Faubourg fresh seasonal produce, and energy and box personalised experiences
suite private bar, naturally illuminated rooms and a colonnade with blossoming Saint-Honoré water conservation. for her guests. She started
her career in 1996 and is now
X Delhi * Any particularly funny incident you
the Area General Manager of
Fresh Sheet recall with the guests? the Royal Orchid Group of
Once we arranged a wedding at the Hotels in Mysuru.
H
Kolkata Hotels in non-containment zones to hotel and were informed that a VIP ailing from a family of coffee
Expansion
resume services guest would arrive. We were told
planters from Coorg, she
to ensure the grandest welcome,
embraced hospitality early on as a
Spree
putting me and the entire team on
our toes. Little did we know that the part of her culture. Crediting the
VIP guest was the groom’s best man same for her successful career in the
The hospitality giant will begin at the wedding–Mirchi, his beagle, industry, Suman has never looked
operations in India in 2022 who travelled in his chauffeur driven back. Apart from involving her team in
car all the way from Mumbai.
Thailand-based Dusit International challenging projects, she also strives
will venture into the Indian market to recognise each team member’s
with Dusit Princess Serviced Suites * Any strategic change that you strengths and weaknesses, and aims
Kolkata. The property will comprise implemented owing to the to help them streamline their efforts
42 three-bedroom units, a swimming COVID-19 pandemic? to achieve their goals. Keeping a sharp
pool and an all-day dining restaurant The foremost was staying connected with focus on the inputs provided by her
amid other facilities. The planned our guests through various digital channels team and taking into consideration
expansion includes exquisite palace and offering stress-free cancellation their feedback, she is also a thorough
conversions with an aim to combine The Delhi Disaster Management policies. We also enhanced our operational decision maker. On days she is not
Thai-inspired hospitality with local Authority gave a nod to hotels in Delhi protocols by working closely with all local busy tending to guests, she can be
customs and traditions to deliver to resume functions. Properties have government health authorities. found in the jungles of South India
sustainable values. aligned their health and safety protocols with her son tracking big cats or
with government guidelines, along with * If not hospitality, what was your pampering her taste buds while
» 300 hotels, under six brands spending time with her family.
across 14 countries worldwide stringent sanitisation measures in place. In second career choice?
lieu of the improving COVID-19 situation Animal rescue and welfare sector. -Simrran Gill
in Delhi, hotels which were earlier linked to
COVID-19 hospitals are no longer so.
» Hotels in containment zones are
currently excluded

back
Back
Back
Regular
feature
84
R e g u l a r
R e g u l a r
— Books —
Every Creature Travel Classic India: The World

Has A Story William Dalrymple’s Vegetarian
Exploring the quirks journey through the Roopa Gulati’s celebration of
of the wild history of Delhi traditional, vegetarian cooking
*
— How to — — gear — There’s a 300-year-old Mutharamman Temple in
the little coastal town of Kulasekharapatnam, in
little the Tuticorin district of Tamil Nadu. Each year, the
things to Roadtrip Printers, lamps residents of the town celebrate Dasara at the Kulasai
fill in your Tips on how to prep for a and lounge wear Mutharamman Temple in a very unique way. Devotees
transform themselves into avatars of goddess Kali and
journey hassle-free adventure The monthly roundup collect alms as an offering to the temple’s presiding deity.
Photograph: UDAYAN SANKAR PAL

City One
Back
Back
personal, they’ve been gathered from trusted
of Djinns
Heart.
Book
Regular sources over the years. But Gulati makes them her
Reviews
86
feature by William Dalrymple own with little twists and touches, and her wealth of
Two culinary experience. We call it andaz, an amorphous
Worlds:
When people talk about the magic measure of measure, which will be familiar to Indian
r e vi e ws
of a city, hyperbole seems to be the cooks but is almost impossible to translate.
running theme. But when it comes The dishes featured range from heart-warming
The Story of
to the enigmatic city of Delhi, there
home standards like dal makhani and palak paneer
simply has to be a driving force behind
The Ways the Jews of
its rich, and rather violent, history.
In his timeless travelogue, City of
to the more cheffy spinach and fig tikkis (this one is
courtesy Karunesh Khanna, head chef at Tamarind in
of the World
Every Creature Has A Story
B ook
Djinns, William Dalrymple gives a—if London) or the red chilli-stuffed mushrooms. Even
by Janaki Lenin loftier are the bulgur
not factual, definitely romantic—
Harper Collins India K599
Kochi
explanation, of sorts.
Dalrymple met his first Sufi—Pir
The recipes
wheat and cardamom
tikkis with their creamy
E
by Dr KS Mathew
Sadr-ud-Din—in the citadel themselves are
verybody loves a fun book. pertinence in our present lives. Perhaps Nair of Feroz saffron filling, straight
India: The World
& Yamini
And fun in a weird way. Like a the conjecture that bees are born Shah Kotla, who told him about the sane and clutter- out of the decadence of a
free, pared
Vegetarian
compendium of the grossest fetishes vaccinated could kindle hope for the city’s magic. “Delhi,” wrote Dalrymple, Mughal palace kitchen.
normal people have. Or the coupling coming times? That chimpanzees “was a city of djinns.” down to the When you least expect it,
“ThoughThis illustrated
it had coffee
been burned by essentials. And
(or tripling) positions that we never mourn for their dead could reassure table book documents by Roopa Gulati you run into Punjabi anda
invaders time and time again, Bloomsbury K899 they’ve clearly
knew our more primitive ancestors to our existential the history of the Jews bhurji or that classic—
millennium after millennium, still the
have tried. Or the daily objects that crisis-stricken in Kerala for over 2,000 been tested. chilli cheese toast—so
Lenin, who city was rebuilt; each time it rose like a
you come in intimate contact with selves? Perhaps years. Even as their culture Innovative and emblematic of how India
is a veteran phoenix from the fire.”
I often personal,
that have more microbes than we could learn wanes, it thrives with the ’ve always been wary of what I call deftly absorbs eclectic
of the genre, Dalrymple peels back Delhi’s layers
your toilet seat. empathy of history keen attention of this
like an onion. He starts with the ‘NRI cookbook’, reeking of nostalgia for they’ve been influences into its (in
writes community, who wish only
None of these books presumably from prairie the Sikh riots of 1984, through the the mother country, happy to perpetuate the gathered from this case, quite literally)
with both to preserve their slice of
exist, but Janaki Lenin’s Every Creature voles—who, also partition, the British, Mughals, the myth of the exotic Orient, overly reliant on the trusted sources melting pot. It’s this high
amusement known to be life in the state. With the
Sultanate, all the way to the Pandavas’
Has a Story does. No, it’s not just
Jews’ tenacious history
restaurant-style dishes that have unfortunately over the years. and low approach that
gross things, though it does concern and Indraprastha, weaving in his own become the face of Indian food around the
monogamous
unfurling worldwide, But Gulati makes lends the book a sing-
glassfrogs peeing on their eggs and adoration life-long, might experiences along the way. He makes world, and a veritable minefield of factual song quality, a cadence of
Kerala became a much- them her own
spiders and octopuses engaging in about you fall in and out of love with the inaccuracies and cultural boo-boos. Yup, I don’t
soon outstrip needed haven. One Heart.
city but never ignores the mysticism with little twists its own. We could call it
wild—even mortal—sex. It’s a relief to dragonflies humans in the Two Worlds: The Story of like them. Thankfully, Roopa Gulati’s latest Raga Roopa, I suppose.
surrounding it. and touches,
slowly realise that human standards of that fake spectrum of the Jews of Kochi is laced book—sensible, practical and rooted in reality— Full marks for a fair,
“You could not see them,” he and her wealth
weird don't mean much in the larger, being dead consciousness. with pictures depicting is quite a far cry from all of that. pan-Indian distribution
wrote of the djinns. “But if you of culinary
delightfully complex animal world. to opt out If you’re the their life, some anecdotes
concentrated, you’d feel them; hear Older readers may remember Roopa Gulati to the selection. This
and small informative experience. We
That anthropomorphic systems and of sex and kind of person their whisperings, and even sense their as the once-upon-a-time bubbly anchor of must have been a
sections on the religion call it andaz,
binaries of civilisation collapse in African wild that grew up on warm breath on your face.” the cookery segment on NDTV’s Good Morning challenge, given that
and its practices, on an amorphous
favour of altogether new hierarchies in dogs that a steady diet of
symbols and instruments.
India show. She grew up in Cumbria, honed Indian cuisine, even just
measure of
the minuter lifeforms. bark to reach Animal Planet, the � Bloomsbury K499
Flipping through the
her culinary skills at the Cordon Bleu Cookery its vegetarian aspect,
Lenin, who is a veteran of the genre, School in London, then spent some years in measure, which is quite impossible to
a consensus memories will book, one can find many
writes with both amusement and come rushing India where she worked as a consultant for Taj will be familiar encompass in a single
on whether handwritten songs and
adoration about dragonflies that back. You’ll be Hotels and did the TV show, eventually moving to Indian cooks volume of any size.
to hunt or recipes. For instance,
fake being dead to opt out of sex and dreaming about to make curries kosher, back to the UK. Gulati has developed a lot of but is almost Additionally, there are
to nap
African wild dogs that bark to reach a soaring in the coconut milk is poured in culinary shows since, including Rick Stein’s India. impossible to bunches of useful tips,
consensus on whether to hunt or nap. sky—much like frigate birds bound so as to not mix dairy and Part of a series on national vegetarian cuisines translate like how to go about
The book, culled from a batch of 90 for distant land and taking mid-flight meat. Or how tapioca is around the globe, India: The World Vegetarian making your own Indian
essays from her online column, is a naps. It will be worth risking triggering used in place of gelatin as has eye-catching photographs that look good spice mixes (always better than store bought, and
101 of sorts, to the vastness and your cetaphobia—you might even a binding agent. There is enough to eat. They are by David Loftus, who fresher) and even on making the perfect portion of
much to unpack in this
the wondrous inscrutability of have nightmares about killer whales, is something of a legend in the world of food basmati rice or your own homemade paneer.
the animal world. sinking ships or firehawks arsoning the photography. Even Jamie Oliver swears by him. I’m so, so glad this did not turn out to be the NRI
Some of the explorations that Lenin forests of Australia. The recipes themselves are sane and clutter- cookbook of my nightmares. And I intend to make
undertakes touch upon questions Fun comes at a cost. free, pared down to the essentials. And they’ve good use of it in my kitchen. Fellow diners, beware.
that have reached an unprecedented — P r a n n a y Pa t h a k clearly been tested. Innovative and often —Am it Dixit

→ Underworld.co → Bagail Packing Cubes Clothing Hack
Wheels in check?
Back
Back
Tee+Short The set of six cubes comes in Car servicing

Use packing cubes to segregate your
belongings for easy access. Roll your
This T-shirt and booty different vibrant colours and Registration clothes to fit more in a tighter space.
shorts set is 100 per convenient sizes. Made Insurance Pack your belongings in categories so
cent cotton, bio washed, with high-quality Stepney you don’t have to unpack your whole
fabric and a mesh bag trying to find that buried sock.
Sma rt T r ave l
and cured to be the
G e a r box
Toolbox
softest day or night lounge panel on top, they Tank up
Get Road
wear. But nothing beats are built to last. Spare container for gas
the quirky designs! � From $24.99 Car manual Munchies
� From J1,300 • bagail.com Jumper cables
Trippin’
• theunderworld.co Windscreen cover
Tyre pressure
Kiko Milano Road Side Assistance
Konscious Vegan (RSA)
Collection Gearbox
September
When you’re all set to go off on
xcruelty free
↑ Sun Glow Solar Mini your great road adventure, know
LED Lantern
Picks
and vegan, from that we’ve got you covered
the product to Fit this nifty little solar lantern
the packaging
with a Li-Ion battery into your Carry lots of water, and then some
xaimed at backpack and hit the road. The more. Dry snacks are a great idea,
creating packing cubes, lanterns, and mini LEDs use 5W of solar power and and don’t forget your mugs, plates,
minimum can last four to five hours. cutlery and glasses. Keep a garbage
impact on the
printers, if you’re hitting the road, bag handy so that you don’t leave a
environment don’t forget to take these � From J450 • sunglowsolar.com trail of trash behind you.
xformulated essentials!
with minimal
ingredients
xincludes
BB mousse,
matte powder,
lipsticks, and Camping Gear
mascara, etc
x Foldable tent
x Stove
� Products starting from J900
Don’t Forget
x Gas can
• kikocosmetics.com
x Lighter
↑ Pennline x Cooler
Flashlights, portable charger,
Personalisable
sanitiser, blankets, umbrella,
x Camping table and chairs extra towels, bug spray,
Notebooks x Washing line and pegs sunscreen, first-aid kit and
travel-sized toiletries.
Pocket-sized notebooks with x Hiking boots
Italian leatherette covers, they
come with bright laser-etched
artwork, and any writing of your
choice. You can customise it to fit
your own, unique quirks!
� From J450 • williampenn.net
← Fujifilm Instax Mini

↑ Lexon Mina Mini Link Phone Printer How to change a tyre
LED Lamp x phone connects via Bluetooth
Place the spanner on the Remove the nuts, switch
This adorable little mushroom x can print video frames wheel nuts and stamp out the flat tyre, put the
fits in the palm of your hand. x comes with a dedicated app 1 down until they’re loose 3 nuts back on and tighten
With two light settings, warm x works with Fujifilm cameras Keep this page handy enough to turn by hand by hand
and cold, the compact size and x “surprise mode” for party pics
stylish design also come with a � Comes in Dusty Pink, Ash White
dimming feature. and Denim Blue; from J9,999
Put the jack under the Remove the jack and
� From J2,500 • williampenn.net • amazon.in car on the rocker panel,
2 4 tighten the nuts further
raise until the wheel is with the spanner
off the ground
Tip: Lefty loosey, righty tighty!
88 September 2020 Compiled by Labanya maitra

www.wildcraft.com/supermasks
Back
T r ave l l e r
Ti m e
Paaniyon ke Dhaaro se,
Raste Pahaado se
Aaja re Duniya
Bulave Hardum
India There’s an unlikely He also commissioned students from male gaze, this poster is part of a larger
1966
alliance between art Mumbai’s JJ College of Art to paint collection showcasing Indian culture
and Air India. Turns murals at the international booking in multicultural settings. Perhaps, they
out, the turban-crested, moustache- offices. As these artists established just needed a second to get with the
twirling Maharaja was quite the themselves, the value of Air India’s swinging ’60s.
connoisseur, and the airline has created collection rose. This year, the ‘Maharaja of the Skies’
an attractive collection of Indian art This vintage poster from the airline’s collection was showcased in Mumbai.
through the years. Jal B. Cowasji, the heydays is a reflection of the Maharaja’s The man himself, we imagine, would be
airline’s publicity officer, curated works growing prosperity. Although proudly twirling his enviable ’stache.
by established and upcoming artists. anatomically skewed to benefit the — L a b a n y a m aitr a
Made in
India
90 September 2020
i n d i a ’ s no.1
T r av e l
magazine
sepTember 2020 • `150 www.outlooktraveller.com
Glittering like
diamonds in
the setting sun,
Gujarat's salt
marshes hold
some beautiful
secrets. Welcome
to the Rann!
A Desert
in White
Heritage * Wildlife * Cuisine * Adventure

Olt September 2020

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Olt September 2020

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Olt September 2020

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

i n d i a ’ s no.

september 2020 • L150 www.outlooktraveller.com

Around the Block Meet the GM Time Traveller Book Review

8 904150 800003 06 i t ’ s n o t w h e r e ——— i t ’ s h o w

explore “Life is either a

Don’t miss the ukadiche

Cover photograph: SHUTTERSTOCK

4 Foreign junkies who

holidays like to fly across the

month Sabyasachi Gorai who has

Rainfall Snowfall movie takes you on a trip Y

across India aboard the

Letter of the month

Reminiscing Mark Raso • An indie CY

of sun emerges from behind the clouds Copenhagen recounts the

I subscribed to OT for the protagonist’s journey as he

@adaay.10 The man who

If you’re looking for the silver lining to this pandemic, it’s

• the fact that although you’re R15

The Dan ish experience-of-a-lifetime

� Individual legs will be priced accordingly, and 5 per

the Tree Pose

On Trend: Goat Yoga

12 September 2020 outlook traveller 13

14 September 2020 Compiled by Simr r a n gill outlook traveller 15

The Danish Summer

16 September 2020 outlook traveller 17

Many of the heritage buildings

The Group of Monuments at

Along the Coast

Do not miss out on the seafare at

The southernmost tip of the Indian

explore Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche,

Uttar Pradesh Rajasthan

Drive past the jaunty beach shacks to discover Goa

behind by the Portuguese. Drive past them to reach

And changes hues at sunset. Though the few beaches

To savour authentic coastal seafood, especially

Around the Town

Bihar’s capital Patna—formerly

Clockwise from here: the pristine

Further in Sasaram is an awe-worthy

The place had a mystic aura about it,

but I couldn’t exactly pinpoint what it

the brothers Bali and Sugriva fought. Or

landscape intercepted by bright green

paddy fields. But there was something in

Conquered, pillaged and destroyed, Hampi has stood

↖ The surreal ↓ Basking → Carving

← Kosuke ↓ Stone idol

We were halfway up, nearly at the cafeteria.

Staycations with endless experiences...

Special evenings curated In-room movie experience

Clockwise from here: the

Uncharted other Indian cuisines, where spices

courtesy: anurag mallick

Ellora in the Gulf This seasonal curry

78 august 2020 outlook traveller 79