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History Anirban Mahapatra

A popular Indian saying goes that the state of Rajasthan alone has more
history than the rest of the country put together. Given that its name liter-
ally translates as ‘the land of kings’, perhaps the theory is true. Strewn with
fascinating palaces, forts and ruins, with a colourful and diverse culture to
boot, Rajasthan is an exotic land that intrigues as much as it enthrals. Throw
in the neighbouring medieval capitals of Delhi and Agra, and you’ve got a
heady cocktail laced with a thousand royal legends, potent enough to work
its charm on even the most prosaic of imaginations. Anirban Mahapatra is
But all good things come at a price. And Rajasthan, along with its neigh- a journalist, writer and
bouring areas, has had to pay heavily in the past in order to inherit the rich photographer based in
heritage it calls its own today. Over the centuries, the province has had to cope Delhi, and has travelled
with waves of ruthless invasions lashing in from the geographically vulnerable extensively through
northwest, and later the south. These raids, undertaken by everyone from Rajasthan and northern
treasure hunters to religious crusaders, have brought along their own share India during his three-
of carnage, vandalism and desecration. Uncertainty and political turmoil year stay in the Indian
have been a way of life here. Delhi, for instance, has been razed and rebuilt capital. His primary inter-
by different dynasties at least nine times throughout the ages. And the crisis ests include exploring the
has often been compounded by severe infighting among princely states in the multifaceted culture and
area. Ironically, it is this very streak of collective unrest that has contributed living tradition of India
immensely towards shaping the character of the terrain and its people, leaving and its people.
behind a legacy unparalleled by any other part of the nation.

BACK WHERE IT ALL BEGAN

Archaeologists have inferred that the desert and scrub areas of Rajasthan have
been home to humans for several thousand years. Excavations in Kalibangan,
near Ganganagar in northern Rajasthan, have unearthed terracotta pottery
and jewellery that date back to around 3000 BC, conclusively dating the earli-
est spread of settlements in the state to that time. Some of these urban centres
were presumably absorbed into the Harappan segment of the Indus Valley
The oldest natural relics
civilisation, where they flourished until the settlement was mysteriously
in Rajasthan are fossilised
abandoned 3700 years ago. The mass exodus, possibly triggered by flooding
remains of a 180-million-
or a severe climatic change, rendered Rajasthan devoid of human settlement
year-old forest, located at
for some time, until indigenous tribes such as the Bhils and the Minas moved
the Akal Wood Fossil Park
in to set up their own squabbling small kingdoms, thereby commencing the
(p337) in the Thar Desert
long history of argumentative neighbours in the region.
near Jaisalmer.
But even as the tribes tore away at each other, another civilisation was
sprouting in the fertile plains to the east of Rajasthan, between the riv-
ers Yamuna and Ganga (Ganges). Though their exact origins are difficult
to determine, the settlers in this fledgling colony are widely assumed to

c 2600–1700 BC c 1500 BC c 1000 BC

The heyday of the Indus Valley The Indo-Aryan civilisation Indraprastha, Delhi’s first
civilisation. Spanning parts takes root in the fertile plains incarnation, comes into being.
of Rajasthan, Gujarat and the of the Indo-Gangetic basin. Archaeological excavations
Sindh province in Pakistan, the The settlers here speak an at the site where the Purana
settlement takes shape around early form of Sanskrit, from Qila now stands continue even
metropolises such as Harappa which several Indian languages, today, as more facts regarding
and Mohenjo-Daro. including Hindi, later evolve. this ancient capital keep com-
ing to light.
 28 HISTORY •• Marauding Huns & the Advent of Kings lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Marauding Huns & the Advent of Kings 29

belong to a seminomadic race of Indo-European origin, who were known as spite of rigid social norms, which didn’t allow for any kind of self-promotion,
Aryans or ‘noblemen’. It was in this civilisation that Hinduism first evolved early Rajput clans such as the Gurjara Pratiharas crossed the caste barriers
as a religious tradition and a way of life, along with a complex patriarchal to proclaim themselves Kshatriyas, members of the warrior class, who came
The website www.har social structure and the tiered caste system that the greater Indian society second only to the Brahmins (priests) in the caste hierarchy.
appa.com provides an adheres to even today. By 1000 BC, the province had seen the establishment To facilitate their smooth transition through social ranks, and to avoid
illustrated yet scholarly of at least two prominent kingdoms: the Matsya territory of Viratnagar stinging criticism from the Brahmins, these early Rajput clans chose to jet-
coverage of everything encompassing Alwar, Bharatpur, Dholpur and Karauli; and Indraprastha, tison their worldly ancestry and took to trumpeting a mythological genealogy
you need to know about the earliest-known incarnation of Delhi, which was successively built on by that supposedly evolved from celestial origins. From the 6th century onward,
the ancient Indus Valley several dynasties to come. some of the clans began calling themselves Suryavanshis (Descendants of Upon losing Delhi to
civilisation, including the Little is known of Rajasthan’s development at this time. However, it was the Sun), while others chose to be known as Chandravanshis (Descendants the Afghans, Prithviraj
significance of recent an era that saw few incursions, as the mighty empires which were then of the Moon). A third dynasty, on the other hand, traced their roots to the Chauhan was captured
archaeological finds. strengthening their hold on the subcontinent, surprisingly, chose to pass on sacrificial fire that was lit on Mt Abu during the Mauryan era, thereby naming and taken back to
the state for one reason or another. Alexander the Great, who came to Asia themselves Agnivanshis (Fire-Born). Mohammed of Ghori’s
on his epic conquest, was forced to return when his troops, homesick and As the Rajputs slowly consolidated their grip over Rajasthan, they earned court in Ghazni, where
weary after the campaign, convinced him to retreat. The Mauryan empire a reputation for their chivalry, noble traditions and strict code of conduct. he was later blinded and
(323–185 BC) had minimal impact too, largely due to its most renowned Their sense of honour matched perhaps only by Arthurian knights or the killed.
emperor, Ashoka, taking to nonviolent ways after he converted to Buddhism. Japanese samurai, the Rajputs gave rise to several well-known dynasties, who
In stark contrast to the atrocities he had inflicted on the eastern Indian in turn established some of the most renowned princely states of Rajasthan.
kingdom of Kalinga, the only evidence Ashoka left of his reign in Rajasthan The largest of these kingdoms, and the third largest in India after Kashmir
The concepts of zero were Buddhist caves and stupas (Buddhist shrines; p235) near Jhalawar, and Hyderabad, was Marwar. Founded by the Suryavanshi Rathores who rode
and infinity are widely rock-cut edicts at Bairat, an ancient Buddhist site near Sariska (p198), and in from Uttar Pradesh, it was initially ruled from Mandore, before the seat
believed to have been a 13m-high pillar he inscribed in Delhi (p99). of power was relocated to the Mehrangarh Fort (p304) in nearby Jodhpur.
devised by eminent The Sisodias migrated from Gujarat to assemble in the folds of the Aravalli
Indian mathematicians MARAUDING HUNS & THE ADVENT OF KINGS Hills to the south, where they formed the state of Mewar (see boxed text, p32)
such as Aryabhatta and The insulation that Rajasthan enjoyed through its early years came to an encompassing Chittorgarh and Udaipur. The Kachhwahas, from Gwalior in
Varahamihira during the abrupt end during the 5th century AD, when armies of fierce Hun warriors Madhya Pradesh, settled in Jaipur in eastern Rajasthan, their capital nestled
reign of the Guptas. rode in from Central Asia to carry out a series of pillaging raids across north in the twin fort complex of Amber (p178) and Jaigarh (p179). Meanwhile,
India. These raids were to alter the course of the region’s history in two major a fourth kingdom, called Jaisalmer, was established in the Thar Desert by
ways. To begin with, they resulted in the disintegration of the Gupta dynasty, the Bhattis, who belonged to the lunar dynasty. Obscured by the dunes, the
which had taken over from the Mauryas as a central power and had reigned Bhattis remained more or less entrenched in their kingdom until Jaisalmer
over the country 320–550. But more importantly, they triggered a parallel was integrated into the state of Rajasthan after Independence.
invasion, as the Rajputs finally came to make Rajasthan their home and, in Over the years, Rajasthan saw the mushrooming of many other smaller
the absence of an overarching monarchy, grew from strength to strength to dynasties, each of which staked claim to its own patch of territory in the
Rajput armies primarily usher in the golden age of Rajasthan. region and ruled with complete autonomy, often refusing to submit to the
consisted of cavalries. Historical evidence suggests that the Rajputs (their name meaning ‘chil- whims of the bigger kingdoms. A few temporary alliances forged through
They were known to dren of kings’) fled their homelands in Punjab, Haryana, Gujarat and Uttar cosmetic treaties or marriages didn’t help much, as their fierce sense of
breed pedigree horses Pradesh to settle in Rajasthan, primarily to escape the wrath of the White pride and independence kept these states from growing and functioning as
such as the Marwari and Huns (and later the Arabs) who had begun to storm in from Pakistan and a unified force. Besides, the clans were so content with their tiny fiefdoms
Kathiawari, which were Afghanistan. Once they had arrived in Rajasthan, the Rajputs trampled that they rarely thought of looking beyond their borders to explore and
inducted into their forces. over the Bhils and Minas, and set up their own small fiefdoms in the face of conquer newer territories.
mounting local chaos. Though they largely belonged to the lower rungs of One dynasty, however, proved to be an exception. The Chauhans, who
Hindu society, volatile circumstances demanded that the Rajputs don the belonged to the Agnivanshi race, moved in from Gujarat around the 8th cen-
role of warriors, if only to fend off further advances by foreign invaders. So in tury to settle in the city of Ajmer, from where they gradually extended their

c 540 BC 326 BC 323–185 BC AD 320–550 AD 500–600 1024

The writing of the Mahabharata Alexander the Great invades India comes under the rule of The period of the Gupta The emergence of the Rajputs Mahmud of Ghazni raids India
begins. The longest epic in the India. He defeats Porus in the Maurya kings. Founded dynasty, the second of India’s in Rajasthan. Stemming from for the last time, ransacking
world, it takes nearly 250 years Punjab to enter the subconti- by Chandragupta Maurya, this great monarchies after the three principal races suppos- on this occasion the Somnath
to complete, and mentions set- nent, but a rebellion within his Pan-Indian empire is ruled from Mauryas. This era is marked by edly of celestial origin, they Temple in Gujarat, where he
tlements such as Indraprastha, army keeps him from advanc- Pataliputra (Patna), and briefly a creative surge in literature form 36 separate clans who purportedly smashes the idol
Pushkar and Chittorgarh. ing beyond the Beas River in adopts Buddhism during the and the arts. spread out to claim their own with his own hands.
Himachal Pradesh. reign of Ashoka. kingdoms across the region.
 30 HISTORY •• The Sword of Islam lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • A n Ag e o f T re a c h e r y a n d E x p l o i t s 31

empire across the neighbouring states of Haryana and Uttar Pradesh. Within of the region, and founded the Mamluk or Slave dynasty, giving Delhi the
Rajasthan, the Hada offshoot of the Chauhans crossed over to the Hadoti first of its many Islamic monarchies.
region and captured the cities of Bundi and Kota, while the Deora branch
took over the nearby Sirohi area, making way for successive generations to AN AGE OF TREACHERY & EXPLOITS
zero in on the provinces of Ranthambore, Kishangarh and Shekhawati. The The enthronement of Qutb-ud-din Aibak flagged off the Sultanate era of While the construction of
most illustrious of the Chauhan kings, Prithviraj III, went a notch further by Delhi, which lasted for about 350 years. Throughout this period, Delhi was the Qutb Minar in Delhi
leading his troops to invade Delhi, which had been reduced to insignificance ruled by six different Islamic dynasties, with a break between 1526 and 1540, was started by Qutb-ud-
after the fall of Indraprastha and was being governed by local chieftains. Keen when Delhi was captured by the Mughals. The six dynasties produced a din Aibak in 1193, it was
to set up a new capital here, Prithviraj Chauhan commissioned the building line of 38 rulers, who gradually pushed the boundaries of their kingdoms to completed during the
of a settlement called Qila Rai Pithora, the ramparts of which can still be conquer new land. The whole of the Gangetic basin soon came under the reign of Firoz Shah, more
seen near the Qutb Minar (p126) in Mehrauli. One of the few Hindu kings Sultanates’ control, as did Rajasthan and Gujarat – the princely states there than 150 years later.
to hold fort in Delhi, Prithviraj Chauhan administered his empire from the had little option but to bow down to their might.
twin capitals of Qila Rai Pithora and Ajmer, before his reign was put to an Apart from expanding their empire, the Sultanate kings also significantly
end by Islamic warriors, who galloped in by the thousands to change the urbanised Delhi. The Mamluks created the city of Mehrauli, whose most
face of the region forever. famous monument is the Qutb Minar. The Khiljis, on their part, seated their
capital at Siri (p89). The Tughlaqs constructed the forts of Tughlaqabad
THE SWORD OF ISLAM (p126) and Firoz Shah Kotla (p99), while Sher Shah Suri, the most renowned
Some 400 years after Prophet Mohammed had introduced Islam into Arabia, of the Sur kings, chose to rule from Shergarh, built on the site of the Purana The eccentric Tughlaq
northern India saw the arrival of Muslim crusaders. It was to be expected. Qila (p104) which he had won from the Mughal emperor Humayun. emperor Mohammed
With the banner of Islam fluttering high, the crusaders had taken over the Despite the glorious developments, however, the Sultanate era was marked Tughlaq reduced Delhi
province of Sindh (in Pakistan) long ago, and, once they had managed to by prolonged phases of political turmoil and administrative tension. Having to a ghost town for two
occupy Ghazni in neighbouring Afghanistan, it was obvious that India would become the jewel of foreign eyes, Delhi was persistently being attacked from years by moving the en-
figure next on their agenda. So at the beginning of the 11th century, zealous the northwest by Mongol, Persian, Turk and Afghan raiders, who all wanted tire population to a new
Turk warriors led by the fearsome Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni descended to set up their own outposts in the city. Within the empire, stability had given capital called Daulatabad,
upon India, razing hundreds of Hindu temples and plundering the region way to turncoat politics, conspiracy and internal strife, as deceitful kings more than 1100km away
to take away vast amounts of wealth to fill their coffers back home. The contrived bloody assassinations and coups to either remove or upstage their in the Deccan.
Turks made their raids into India almost an annual affair, ransacking the predecessors. Things got murkier with time, until two noblemen who were
northern part of the country 17 times in as many years. Jolted out of their disgraced by Emperor Ibrahim Lodi decided to get even with the Sultan by
Razia Sultana, who internal bickering, the Rajput princes organised some hasty defence, but inviting Babur, prince of Kabul, to invade Delhi. Ironically, in plotting their
headed the Mamluks their army was torn to shreds even before they could retaliate. Rajasthan revenge, the two men unknowingly paved the way for the most celebrated
from 1236 to 1240, was had been lost to Islam. Islamic dynasty to roll into India.
the only woman ever Delhi, located further east, was initially spared the wrath of the crusaders, To improve connectivity
to reign in Delhi. She as the Sultan largely confined his raids to Rajasthan and parts of Gujarat. ENTER THE MUGHALS within his kingdom, Sher
was dislodged from the Trouble, however, came by the name of Mohammed of Ghori, governor of Babur, whose Turkic-Mongol lineage included great warriors such as Genghis Shah Suri built the Grand
throne by her brother, Ghazni, who invaded India in the late 12th century, taking up where his Khan and Timur the Lame, marched into India through Punjab, defeating Trunk Road, the oldest
Bahram Shah. predecessor had left off. He was thwarted on his first campaign by Prithviraj Ibrahim Lodi in the First Battle of Panipat (1526) to establish the Mughal and longest road in the
Chauhan, but the resolute Ghori returned a year later to defeat the Rajput dynasty in the country. Once he had seized Delhi, Babur focused his attention subcontinent, which runs
king in the Second Battle of Tarain. Having convincingly stamped his vic- on Rajasthan, where many princely states, anticipating his moves, had already from Bengal to Peshawar
tory over the region, Ghori trotted back to Ghazni, leaving Delhi under the banded together to form a united front under the Sisodia king Rana Sanga. in Pakistan.
governorship of Qutb-ud-din Aibak, a former Turk slave who had risen to Taking advantage of the chaos in Delhi, the Rajputs had meanwhile clawed
command forces in India. When news of Ghori’s death arrived in Delhi a back in the power race, and states such as Mewar had become formidable
decade and a half later, Qutb-ud-din shrugged off competition from rivals to enough to pose a considerable threat to the rulers of Delhi. Babur, however,
stake claim to the Indian part of Ghori’s empire. He declared himself Sultan squared everything by defeating the Rajput alliance in a blood-spattered battle

1192 1206 1303 1398 1498 1504

Prithviraj Chauhan loses Delhi Ghori is murdered during a Ala-ud-din Khilji sacks Chit- Timur the Lame invades Delhi, Vasco da Gama, a Portuguese Agra is founded on the banks
to Mohammed of Ghori. The prayer session while returning torgarh with the intention of on the pretext that the Sul- voyager, discovers the sea of the Yamuna by Sikandar
defeat effectively ends Hindu to Ghazni from a campaign in carrying away the beautiful tans of Delhi are too tolerant route from Europe to India. He Lodi. Its glory days begin when
supremacy in the region, Lahore. In the absence of an Sisodia queen Padmini. The with their Hindu subjects. He arrives in Kerala and engages in Akbar makes it his capital, and
exposing Rajasthan and the heir, his kingdom is usurped by queen immolates herself to executes more than 100,000 trade with the local kings. the city is briefly called Akbara-
subcontinent to subsequent his generals. The Delhi Sultan- escape humiliation – the first Hindu captives before the bat- bad during his reign.
Muslim invaders trooping in ate is born. recorded instance of sati in tle for Delhi.
from the northwest. Rajasthan.
 32 HISTORY •• Enter the Mughals lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • T h e L a s t o f t h e M u g h a l G re a t s 33

and, being a master diplomat, used both tact and military force to expand
THE INDOMITABLE SISODIAS and consolidate the Mughal empire in India. Realising that the Rajputs could Driven by nostalgia,
In a region where invasions and political upheavals were historical norms, the Sisodias of Mewar not be conquered on the battlefield alone, Akbar arranged a marriage alliance Babur ordered his archi-
stood out as an exception, using everything from diplomacy to sheer valour to retain an iron with a princess of the important Kachhwaha clan which held Amber (and tects to design a series
grip over their land. Pillage and blood baths notwithstanding, the dynasty administered its king- later Jaipur), and even chose Rajput warriors to head his armies. Honoured of gardens across Delhi
dom in southern Rajasthan without a hiatus for some 1400 years. Lorded over by 76 monarchs by these gestures, the Kachhwahas, unlike other Rajputs, aligned themselves in a way that they would
throughout the ages, the Sisodias also enjoy the rare distinction of having had one of the longest- with the powerful Mughals, as Akbar indirectly succeeded in winning over remind him of his former
serving dynasties in the world. one of the biggest Rajput states. capital Kabul.
While they claim to be Suryavanshis, the lineage of the Sisodia kings can be traced back to Of course, when diplomacy didn’t work, Akbar resorted to war; he con-
a prince named Guhil, born to a Rajput queen sometime in the 6th century AD. Orphaned soon quered Ajmer, and later proceeded to take the mighty forts of Chittorgarh and
after birth and his kingdom ransacked by Huns, Guhil grew up among native Bhils in the forests Ranthambhore. Gradually, all the important Rajput states except Mewar had
of the Aravalli Hills. When he was 11, he forged an alliance with a Bhil chieftain to establish acknowledged Mughal sovereignty to become vassal states. But even as he was
a dynasty called the Guhilots. The chieftain also granted Guhil a tract of forested land in the well on his way to becoming the supreme ruler of India, Akbar became more
mountains, which was to later expand and flourish as the state of Mewar. tolerant in many ways. He married a Hindu Rajput princess and encouraged
The Guhilots shifted base from the hills in the 12th century to a place called Ahar. It was good relations between Hindus and Muslims, giving Rajputs special privileges
here that the family split, resulting in a breakaway faction that relocated to the town of Sissoda so that they were embraced within his empire. A monarch with great social Though Fatehpur Sikri
and rechristened themselves Sisodias. The separatists soon took over Chittorgarh, an ancient insight, he discouraged child marriage, banned sati (ritual suicide of a widow had every making of a
garrison which remained under their control (despite being attacked by Ala-ud-din Khilji) until on her husband’s funeral pyre) and arranged special market days for women. great capital, it had an
it was sacked by Mughal emperor Akbar in 1568. Though it came as a major military setback, Akbar’s reign also saw an unprecedented economic boom in the country, acute shortage of water
the Sisodias lost no time in retreating into the Aravalli Hills, where they put together a new apart from great development in art and architecture. which became so severe
capital called Udaipur (p240). A serenely beautiful city, Udaipur was never lost to the enemy, with time that Akbar was
and remained the capital of Mewar until the kingdom was absorbed into the state of Rajasthan THE LAST OF THE MUGHAL GREATS forced to move his seat of
following India’s Independence. Jehangir, Akbar’s son, was the next Mughal emperor (1605–27), and he ruled power to Agra.
Known for their resilience and courage, the Sisodias have been credited with producing some alongside his adored Persian wife, Nur Jahan, who wielded considerable
of the most flamboyant kings ever to have reigned in Rajasthan. The family boasts names such power and brought Persian influences to the court. Nur Jahan also commis-
as Rana Sanga, who died a valiant death in 1527 while fending off Mughal troops under Babur, sioned the beautiful Itimad-ud-Daulah (p136), the first Mughal structure to
and Maharana Pratap (1540–97), who made several daring though unsuccessful attempts to win be built in marble, in Agra for her parents. The Rajputs maintained cordial
Chittorgarh back from Akbar during his time in power. Being prolific builders, the Sisodias also relationships with the Mughals through Jehangir’s rule, a notable develop-
gave Mewar some of its finest structures, including the Victory Tower (p238) at Chittorgarh, the ment being that Udai Singh, king of Udaipur, ended Mewar’s reservations
grand City Palace (p244) in Udaipur, the elegant Monsoon Palace (p248) atop Sajjangarh Hill and about the Muslims by befriending Jehangir.
the spectacular Lake Palace (p243), which stands on an island amid the placid waters of Lake Good times, however, came to an end soon after Jehangir’s period in office,
Pichola, also in Udaipur. A part of the City Palace now houses a museum, open to the public, which as his descendants’ greater emphasis on Islam began to rock the relative peace Known for his religious
contains countless artefacts showcasing and documenting the glorious heritage of Mewar. in the region. Upon Jehangir’s death, the prince Khurram took over, assuming tolerance, Akbar
the title Shah Jahan, which meant ‘monarch of the world’. His reign was the propounded a cult
pinnacle of Mughal power. Like his predecessors, Shah Jahan was a patron of called Din-I-Ilahi, which
where several Rajput chiefs, including Rana Sanga, fell to the enemy’s wrath. the arts, and some of the finest examples of Mughal art and architecture were incorporated the best
The defeat, which shook the foundations of the Rajput states, also left the produced during his reign, including the Taj Mahal (p133), an extravagant elements of the two
When Timur sacked Delhi, Mughals as the undisputed rulers of northern India. work of extreme refinement and beauty. Shah Jahan also commenced work principal religions of his
he spared all the builders Mughal supremacy was briefly cut back in the mid-16th century by Sher on Delhi’s seventh incarnation, Shahjahanabad, constructing the Red Fort empire, Hinduism and
so that they could build Shah Suri, who defeated Babur’s successor Humayun to give Delhi its sixth (p96) and the Jama Masjid (p98). Islam.
him a city, much like the and final Sultanate. Humayun reclaimed Delhi 14 years later, and was suc- Unfortunately, the emperor harboured high military ambitions, and often
one he had plundered, ceeded upon his accidental death by his 13-year-old son Akbar. Known as bled the country’s financial resources to meet his whims. His exhaustion of
back in Samarkand. the greatest of the Mughal emperors, Akbar ruled for a period of 49 years, the state treasury didn’t go down well with the Rajputs, and towards the end

1526 1540 1568 1608 1631 1674

Babur conquers Delhi and stuns The Sur dynasty briefly cap- Akbar leads his army to Chit- Granted trading rights by way Construction of the Taj Mahal Shivaji establishes the Maratha
Rajasthan by routing its confed- tures Delhi from the Mughals, torgarh and wrests it from the of a royal charter, the first ships begins after Shah Jahan, kingdom, spanning western
erate force, gaining a techno- after Sher Shah Suri’s victory Sisodias. Udai Singh, then king of the British East India Com- overcome with grief following India and parts of the Deccan
logical edge on the battlefield over Humayun in the Battle of Mewar, survives the on- pany sail up the Arabian Sea to the death of his wife Mumtaz and north India. He assumes
due to the early introduction of of Kanauj. The loss forces the slaught and transfers his capital drop anchor at Surat in Gujarat. Mahal, vows to build the most the supercilious title of Chhat-
matchlock muskets in his army. Mughals to temporarily seek to the new city of Udaipur. beautiful mausoleum in the rapati, which means ‘Lord of
help from the Rajputs. world in her memory. the Universe’.
 34 H I S T O R Y • • M a r a t h a s & Pe r s i a n s R u n R i o t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• The British Drop Anchor 35

of Shah Jahan’s rule, the Rajputs and the Mughals had resigned to accept India around Africa in 1498. The British East India Company, a London
each other as unsatisfactory bedfellows. Things worsened when Aurangzeb trading firm that wanted a slice of the Indian spice trade (having seen
became the last great Mughal emperor in 1658, deposing his father who how well the Portuguese were doing), landed in India in the early 1600s.
died in imprisonment at the Musamman Burj (p136) in Agra eight years Granted trading rights by Jehangir, the company set up its first trading
later. An Islamic hardliner, Aurangzeb quickly made enemies in the re- outpost in Surat in Gujarat, and gradually went about extending its in-
gion. His zeal saw him devoting all his resources to extending the Mughal fluence across the country, harbouring interests that went beyond mere
empire’s boundaries. His government’s emphasis on Islam alienated his trade. Extraordinarily enough, this commercial firm ended up nominally
Hindu subjects. Aurangzeb imposed punitive taxes, banned the building of ruling India for 250 years.
William Dalrymple’s City
new temples, even destroying some, and forbade music and ceremonies at Sooner or later, all leading European maritime nations came and pitched
of Djinns is a wonderful
court. Challenges to his power mounted steadily as people reacted against tent in India. Yet none managed to spread out across the country as ef-
book that draws upon
his dour reign. And when he claimed his rights over Jodhpur in 1678, his ficiently as the British. The early English agents became well assimilated
his personal experiences
relations with the Rajputs turned into full-scale war. Before long, there was in India, learning Persian and intermarrying with local people, which gave
in Delhi, and chronicles
insurgency on all sides, which only increased as Aurangzeb died in 1707 them an edge over other European hopefuls. When the Mughal empire
the fascinating history
to leave the empire in the hands of a line of inefficient successors given to collapsed, they made a calculated political move, filling the power vacuum
of the city in its many
Bohemian excesses, who had little or no interest in running the state. The and taking over the reins of administration through a series of battles and
The booty carried back incarnations.
Mughal empire was on a one-way journey towards doom. alliances with local rulers. By the early 19th century, India was effectively
by Nadir Shah from India under British control, and the British government in London had begun
was so rich that, upon MARATHAS & PERSIANS RUN RIOT to take a more direct role in supervising affairs in India, while leaving the
reaching Iran, he relieved The death of Aurangzeb marked the beginning of Delhi’s Twilight Years, a East India Company to deal with day-to-day administrative duties.
his subjects from paying period through which the degenerating Mughal empire was laid to waste Outside British territory, the country was in a shambles. Bandits were
taxes for a period of three by the Marathas and the Persians. The Marathas had risen to prominence on the prowl in the rural areas, and towns and cities had fallen into decay.
years. between 1646 and 1680 led by the heroic Shivaji, under whom their empire The Marathas’ 32 raids in Rajasthan continued, and though the British at
was administered by the peshwas, or chief ministers, who later went on to first ignored the feuding parties, they soon spotted an opportunity for ex- The Doctrine of Lapse, a
become hereditary rulers. At a time when the Mughals were struggling to hold pansion and stepped into the fray. They negotiated treaties with the leaders policy formulated by Lord
their empire together, the Marathas trooped in from the south and gained of the main Rajput states, offering them protection from the Marathas in Dalhousie, enabled the
a stranglehold on Delhi, primarily by supplying regiments to the Mughal return for political and military support. The trick worked. Weakened by East India Company to
army who soon went out of control and began to take possession of the land. habitual wrangling and ongoing conflicts, the kings forfeited their inde- annex any princely state
Contemporary Mughal kings, who were both ineffective and cowardly, failed pendence in exchange for protection, and British residents were installed if its ruler was either
Captain James Tod’s to curb their unruly behaviour. The resulting confusion was capitalised on in the princely states. The British ultimately eliminated the Maratha threat, found incompetent or
Annals and Antiquities by the Persian invader Nadir Shah, who sacked Delhi in 1739 and robbed but, in the process, the Rajputs were effectively reduced to puppets. Delhi’s died without a direct heir.
of Rajasthan (published the city of much of its wealth. When the Marathas were unable to put up prominence as a national capital dwindled too, as the British chose to rule
1829-32) is a historical any resistance on behalf of the Mughals, they joined the Persians in pillaging the country from Calcutta (now Kolkata).
masterpiece, with the the capital. They soon sucked Delhi dry of all its treasures, and when there The later British authorities had an elitist notion of their own superiority
captain’s fascinating was nothing left to rob, the Marathas turned their eyes on Rajasthan. Raids that was to have a lasting impact on India. The colonisers felt that it was
observations on a region and skirmishes with the Rajputs followed; cities were sacked, lives were lost, their duty to civilise the nation, unlike the first agents of the East India
previously undocumented and the Marathas began to win large tracts of Rajput land in the state. The Company who had seen and recognised the value in India’s native culture.
by Europeans. absence of a central Indian authority only contributed to the mayhem, so During the first half of the 19th century, the British brought about radical
much so that India had to wait till the early 19th century for another invasion social reforms. They introduced education in the English language, which
to bring the country under a single umbrella once again. replaced Persian as the language of politics and governance. New roads and
canal systems were installed, followed by the foundation of schools and
THE BRITISH DROP ANCHOR universities modelled on the British system of education. In the later stages,
The British invaders came by the sea, following the Portuguese explorer they brought in the postal system, the telegraph and the railways, introduc-
Vasco da Gama, who had first discovered the sea route from Europe to tions that remain vital to the Indian administrative system today.

1707 1739 1756 1757 1857 1885

Death of Aurangzeb, the last of Nadir Shah plunders Delhi, and The rise of the notorious Jat Breaking out of its business The short-lived First War of The Indian National Congress,
the Mughal greats. His demise carries away with him the Pea- dynasty of Bharatpur in Rajas- mould, the East India Company Independence breaks out India’s first home-grown
triggers the gradual collapse of cock Throne as well as the Ko- than. Under the leadership of registers its first military victory across India. In the absence of political organisation, is set
the Mughal empire, as anarchy hinoor, a magnificent diamond Suraj Mahl and his son Jawahar on Indian soil. Siraj-ud-Daulah, a national leader, the rebels up. It brings educated Indians
and rebellion break out across which changes many hands to Singh, the Jats soon join the nawab of Bengal, is defeated coerce the last Mughal king together and plays a key role in
the country. eventually become property of Marathas and Persians in loot- by Robert Clive in the Battle of Bahadur Shah Zafar to proclaim India’s freedom struggle.
the British royalty. ing Delhi and Agra. Plassey. himself emperor of India.
 36 H I S T O R Y • • I n d e p e n d e n c e , Pa r t i t i o n & A f t e r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Rajasthan is Born 37

But at the same time, British bureaucracy came with controversial policies. continues to be high up on the tourism map of India, as travellers throng the
Severe taxes were imposed on landowners and, as raw materials from India were city to visit its many historic sites and monuments.
used in British industry, cheap British-produced goods began to flood Indian The long history of insurgency and unrest in India did not end with
The 2005 film The Rising markets and destroy local livelihoods. Mass anger in the country began to rise, Independence. In 1962, India had a brief war with China over disputed border
retells the story of the and found expression in the First War of Independence in 1857. Soldiers and territories, and went on to engage in three battles with Pakistan over similar
1857 rebellion through peasants took over Delhi for four months and besieged the British Residency in issues. Political assassinations didn’t recede into history either. Mahatma Gandhi
the life and death of its Lucknow for five months before they were finally suppressed by the East India was slain soon after Independence by a Hindu extremist who hated his inclusive
most celebrated hero, the Company’s forces. Rajasthan also saw uprisings among the poor and middle philosophy. Indira Gandhi, India’s first woman prime minister, was gunned
soldier Mangal Pandey, classes, but there was little effect in the royal circles as Rajput kings continued down by her Sikh bodyguards in retaliation to her ordering the storming of the
played by Aamir Khan. to support the British, and were rewarded for their loyalty after the British Golden Temple, the holiest of Sikh shrines, in 1984. Her son, Rajiv, who suc-
government assumed direct control of the country the following year. ceeded her to the post of prime minister was also assassinated by Tamil terrorists
protesting India’s stance on Sri Lankan policies. Rajiv’s Italian-born widow,
INDEPENDENCE, PARTITION & AFTER Sonia, was the next of the Gandhis to take up the dynastic mantle of power. In
Following a lengthy freedom movement, India finally freed itself of British domi- 2004, she was chosen as president of the Congress Party, which has fed on the
nation in 1947. The road to Independence was an extraordinary one, influenced reputation and charisma of the Gandhis since its formative years and is currently
by Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi, later known as the Mahatma (Great Soul), a principal political alliance in one of the world’s largest democracies. India got its first
Mahatma Gandhi argued who galvanised the peasants and villagers into a nonviolent resistance that was president from the Dalit
that the leader of the to spearhead the nationalist movement. A lawyer by qualification, he caused RAJASTHAN IS BORN community when KR
Muslim League, Moham- chaos by urging people to refuse to pay taxes and boycott British institutions Ever since they swore allegiance to the British, the Rajput kingdoms subjugated Narayanan was sworn in
med Ali Jinnah, should and products. He campaigned for the Dalits (the lower classes of Hindu society, themselves to absolute British rule. Being reduced to redundancy, they also to office in 1997. The cur-
lead a united India if that who he called Harijans or the ‘Children of God’), and the rural poor, capturing chose to trade in their real power for pomp and extravagance. Consumption rent president, Pratibha
would prevent the parti- public imagination through his approach, example and rhetoric. The freedom took over from chivalry and, by the early 20th century, many of the kings were Patil, is the first woman
tion of the country. struggle gained such momentum under him that the British Labour Party, which spending their time travelling the world with scores of retainers, playing polo to hold the top post.
came to power in 1945, saw Indian independence as inevitable. The process of and occupying entire floors of expensive Western hotels. Many maintained
the handover of power was initiated, but Hindu-Muslim differences took their huge fleets of expensive cars, a fine collection of which can be seen in the
toll at this crucial moment, and saw the country being divided on religious lines, automobile museum in Udaipur (p240). While it suited the British to indulge
with Pakistan being formed to appease the Muslim League which sought to them, the maharajas’ profligacy was economically and socially detrimental to
distance itself from a Hindu-dominated country. their subjects, with the exception of a few capable rulers such as Ganga Singh
Prior to the change of guard, the British had shifted their capital out of of Bikaner. Remnants of the Raj (the British government in India before 1947)
The 24-spoke wheel, Calcutta (now Kolkata) and built the imperial city of New Delhi through can be spotted all over the region today, from the Mayo College in Ajmer to The Sariska and
an emblem designed the early 1900s, work on which was overseen by architect Edwin Lutyens. the colonial villas in Mt Abu, and black-and-white photographs, document- Ranthambhore tiger re-
by Ashoka, has been Meant to be an expression of British permanence, the city was speckled with ing chummy Anglo-Rajput hunting expeditions, which deck the walls of any serves, Rajasthan’s best-
adopted as the central grand structures such as the Rashtrapati Bhavan (p104), the Central Vista self-respecting heritage hotel in the state. known national parks,
motif on the national and hundreds of residential buildings that came to be known as Lutyens After Independence, from a security point of view, it became crucial for the were originally used as
flag of India, where it is Bungalows. After Independence, many of these Colonial buildings were used new Indian union to ensure that the princely states of Rajasthan were integrated private hunting grounds
rendered in blue against to house the brand-new Indian government, as Delhi was reinstated to its into the new nation. Most of these states were located near the vulnerable by the maharajas of
a white background. former status as the administrative and political capital of the country. India–Pakistan border, and it made sense for the government to push for a Alwar and Ranthambore
Agra, sadly, did not get as much recognition as its counterpart. Being merger that would minimise possibilities of rebellion in the region. Thus, when respectively.
predominantly a satellite capital, where power occasionally spilt over from the boundaries of the new nation were being chalked out, the ruling Congress
Delhi, the city had lost most of its political importance after the Mughals Party made a deal with the nominally independent Rajput states to cede power
had departed. In the modern context, it made little sense to invest it with to the republic. To sweeten the deal, the rulers were offered lucrative monetary
any kind of government machinery, so much so that it lost out to Lucknow returns and government stipends, apart from being allowed to retain their titles
when it came to selecting a state capital for Uttar Pradesh. Nonetheless, Agra and property holdings. Having fallen on hard times, the kings couldn’t but agree

1911 1947 1948 1948–56 1952 1992

Architect Edwin Lutyens begins India gains independence on Mahatma Gandhi is assassi- Rajasthan takes shape, as the The first elections are held in Hindu-Muslim rivalry rears its
work on New Delhi, the new- 15 August. Pakistan is formed nated during a public walk in princely states form a beeline Rajasthan, and the state gets its ugly head once again as the
est manifestation of Delhi, a day earlier. Partition is fol- New Delhi by Nathuram Godse to sign the Instrument of Acces- first taste of democracy after Babri Masjid, presumably built
subsequently considered in lowed by cross-border exodus, on 30 January. Godse and his sion, giving up their territories centuries of monarchical rule. by Babur on a Hindu shrine
architectural circles as one of as thousands of Hindus and co-conspirator Narayan Apte which are incorporated into the The Congress is the first party in Ayodhya, is demolished by
the finest garden cities ever to Muslims brave communal riots are later tried, convicted and newly formed Republic of India. to be elected into office. Hindu activists.
have been built. to migrate to their respective executed.
nations.
 38 HISTORY •• Rajasthan is Born lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 39

with the government, and their inclination to yield to the Indian dominion
gradually brought about the formation of the state of Rajasthan.
To begin with, the state comprised only the southern and southeastern
states of Rajasthan. Mewar was one of the first kingdoms to join the union.
Udaipur was initially the state capital, with the maharaja of Udaipur becoming
rajpramukh (head of state). The Instrument of Accession was signed in 1949,
and Jaipur, Bikaner, Jodhpur and Jaisalmer were then merged, with Jaipur as
the state’s new capital. Later that year, the United State of Matsya was incor-
Discover the bygone
porated into Rajasthan. The state finally burgeoned to its current dimensions
days of Rajasthan’s
in November 1956, with the additions of Ajmer-Merwara, Abu Rd and a tract
royalty in A Princess
of Dilwara, originally part of the princely state of Sirohi that had been divided
Remembers, the memoirs
between Gujarat and Rajasthan. Rajasthan is now India’s largest state.
of Gayatri Devi, maharani
The fate of the royal families of Rajasthan since Independence has been
of Jaipur. Cowritten by
mixed. A handful of the region’s maharajas have continued their wasteful
Santha Rama Rau, it’s an
ways, squandering away their fortunes and reducing themselves to abject
enthralling read.
poverty. A few zealous ones, who hated to see their positions of power go,
have switched to politics and become members of leading political parties
in India. Some have skipped politics to climb the rungs of power in other
well-known national institutions, such as sports administration bodies or
charitable and nonprofit organisations in the country. Only a few have chosen
to lead civilian lives, earning a name for themselves as fashion designers,
cricketers or entertainers.
The majority of kings, however, have refused to let bygones be bygones,
and have cashed in on their heritage by opening ticketed museums for tourists
and converting their palaces to lavish hotels. With passing time, the luxury
hospitality business has begun to find more and more takers from around
the world. The boom in this industry can be traced back to 1971, when Indira
Gandhi, then India’s Prime Minister, abolished the privileges granted to the
Rajasthan princes at the time of accession. Coming as a massive shock to
those at the top of the pile, the snipping of the cash cord forced many kings
to inadvertently join the long list of heritage hotel owners.
In spite of the abolition, many kings choose to continue using their royal
titles for social purposes till this day. While these titles mean little more than
status symbols in the modern context, they still help in garnering enormous
respect from the common public. On the other hand, nothing these days quite
evokes the essence of Rajput grandeur as much as a stay in palatial splendour
surrounded by vestiges of the regal age, in places such as the Rambagh Palace
(p158) in Jaipur and the Umaid Bhawan Palace (p306) in Jodhpur. Not all the
royal palaces of Rajasthan are on the tourist circuit, though. Many of them
continue to serve as residences for erstwhile royal families, and some of the
mansions that were left out of the tourism pie are crumbling away, ignored
and neglected, their decaying interiors empty and full of bats.

1998 2004 2007

India declares itself a nuclear A deadly tsunami strikes the India and the US release the
power after conducting under- eastern shores of India on 26 draft of the 123 Agreemeent
ground tests near the town of December, killing more than for mutual exchange of nuclear
Pokaran in Rajasthan. Pakistan 15,000 people. power and logistics. The draft
follows suit, and the twin tests is widely criticised by Indian
subject the subcontinental opposition parties.
neighbours to global
condemnation.
38 lonelyplanet.com 39

The Culture Anirban Mahapatra

RAJASTHANI IDENTITY
It’s not the turbaned maharajas, or the self-obsessed white-collars, or even
the stereotypical beggars, for that matter. The first people you run into upon
your arrival in Rajasthan or Delhi are a jostling bunch of overly attentive
locals, who ambush you the moment you step out of the airport or the railway
station to drown you in a sea of unsolicited offers. Great hotels, taxi rides at The common gesture
half price, above-the-rate currency exchange…the list drags on, interspersed used to greet strangers
with beaming smiles you would only expect from long-lost friends. Famed in India is that of joining
Indian hospitality at work? This is no reception party; the men are touts palms at chest-level in a
out on their daily rounds, trying to wheedle a few bucks off unsuspecting namaste. Women gener-
travellers, and most of them can lie through their teeth. There’s no way ally don’t shake hands,
you can escape them, though a polite but firm ‘no thank you’ often stands unlike some men.
you in good stead under such circumstances. It’s a welcome each and every
newcomer is accorded in India.
It’s hard not to get put off by the surprise mobbing. But brush it off anyway,
and don’t let the incident make you jump to the hasty conclusion that every
local, given half a chance, is out to hound the daylights out of you. Walk out
of the terminal and into the real India, and things suddenly come across as
strikingly different. With little stake in your activities, the people you now
meet are genuinely warm (even if overtly curious), hospitable and sometimes
helpful beyond what you’d call mere courtesy. For example, someone might
volunteer to show you around a monument expecting absolutely nothing Moustachioed personnel
in return. And while it’s advisable to always keep your wits about you (see in some troops of the
the boxed text, p44), going with the flow often helps you understand the Indian Army, such as the
north-Indian psyche better, apart from making your trip to the region all Rajput regiment, are paid
the more memorable. a monthly allowance of
Broadly speaking, people in North India are easy to get along with. Punjabi- Rs 100 to maintain their
dominated Delhi has an inherent back-slapping culture where friendship is whiskers.
quickly forged over a stiff whisky. Rajasthan, on the other hand, is surpris-
ingly cosmopolitan. Most rickshaw pullers in Jaipur or Udaipur have picked
up a European language or three to attract more tourist dollars. And in spite
of adhering to a rigid social code among themselves, Rajasthanis are willing
to make concessions for tourists in more ways than one. Remember, it’s the
dollars brought in by travellers that makes much of the region’s economy
tick, and there’s no way the locals are going to upset the apple cart.
The spin-off, however, is that Rajasthanis often tend to overdo things to
play up their fabled identity built on chivalry and fortitude, if only to preserve
an image that the world is willing to pay to see. From growing ornamental
moustaches to weaving tall tales about their glorious ancestry, the people here
leave no stone unturned in showcasing their regal past. But then, maybe it’s The number of mobile
just as well, for what would Rajasthan be without its history anyway? phone connections in
India is currently upward
DAILY LIFE of 75 million, and is ex-
Contemporary Culture pected to grow to about
Urbanity and exposure to the outside world notwithstanding, North Indian 600 million by 2012.
society remains conservative at heart. Cities such as Delhi and Jaipur may
have acquired a liberal sheen on the outside, thanks to globalisation, but
within the walls of a typical home, little has changed through time. The man
of the house still calls the shots; conversations relating to sex don’t make
it to dinner table; and moving in with a partner is considered immoral, if
not a sign of blatant promiscuity. Western influences are apparent in the
 40 T H E C U LT U R E • • D a i l y L i fe lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • D a i l y L i fe 41

public domain. Satellite TV rules the airwaves, mobile phones are nothing
short of a necessity, and coffee shops are jam-packed on the weekends. But DOS & DON’TS
ask a young man in front of his parents what his girlfriend does, and you India has retained many time-honoured traditions and reservations regarding public behaviour.
needn’t look beyond several pairs of flushed cheeks to realise you’ve made a While you won’t be expected to get everything right, common sense and courtesy will take you a
faux pas. Urban India prefers to wallow in a state of conscious denial. Some long way. If in doubt about how you should behave, watch what the locals do, or simply ask.
things are best left unsaid. Dressing conservatively (for both women and men) wins a warmer response from locals. Short
Opium was traditionally In the region’s backyard, the scene is rather stark. Rural Rajasthan remains skirts and spaghetti straps invite unwanted attention, especially in crowded places. Kissing and
served to guests at social one of the poorest areas in the country. Being in close proximity to the Thar cuddling in public aren’t condoned by society, so open displays of affection are best avoided.
functions by several Desert, the climate here is harsh, and people dwelling in the region’s villages
indigenous communities are locked in a day-to-day battle for survival, as they have been for ages. Religious Etiquette
of Rajasthan. Though the Unemployment is rife, and has resulted in mass frustration, which in turn Visits to sacred sites require you to dress and behave respectfully – no shorts or sleeveless tops
sale of opium is now il- has led to problems such as debt, drug abuse (with synthetic drugs rapidly (this rule applies to both men and women). Head cover (not baseball caps!) is necessary at some
legal, it continues behind replacing age-old indulgences like opium and marijuana), alcoholism and places of worship. Jain temples request the removal of leather items and may ask women not to
law-enforcers’ backs. prostitution. Indigenous tribes have been the worst affected, and it isn’t enter if menstruating. In some places, men may have to sit apart from women. Loud and intrusive
uncommon to see members from their communities begging or performing behaviour isn’t appreciated, nor is smoking. There are some sites that don’t admit women and
tricks at Delhi’s traffic signals in return for loose change. some that deny entry to nonadherents of their faith.
Rajasthan also lags behind on the education front, its literacy rate being Before entering a holy place, remove your shoes and check if photography is allowed. Religious
about 4% behind the national average of 65.4%. In 2001, the government etiquette advises against touching locals on the head, or directing the soles of your feet at a
implemented a nationwide ‘education-for-all’ programme, which aims to person, religious shrine or deity. It’s also offensive to touch someone with your feet or to touch
impart elementary education to all Indian children by 2010. The project a carving of a deity.
focuses on the education of girls, who have historically been deprived of
Mala Sen’s Death by quality schooling. Rajasthan is expected to benefit immensely from the Eating & Visiting Etiquette
Fire: Sati, Dowry Death programme, and the authorities are optimistic that the forthcoming 2011 If you’re invited to someone’s home, it’s considered good manners to remove your shoes before
& Female Infanticide in census will throw up positive results and set the record straight. entering the house and wash your hands before a meal. Wait to be served or until you are invited
Modern India is a disturb- to help yourself; if you’re unsure about protocol, wait for your host to direct you. Indians eat with
ing and impassioned Status of Women their hands, and cutlery is found only in urban households. You can always ask for a fork, but if
account, written from Traditionally objectified to the extent of being seen as child-bearing ma- the family can’t provide you with one, simply proceed with your right hand. The left hand is only
the perspective of three chines, women in rural Rajasthan are yet to rub shoulders with their menfolk used for unsavoury actions, such as toilet duties. While drinking water from a shared container,
different women. in many ways. Being socially disadvantaged, their freedom has been seriously hold it slightly above your mouth, so as to avoid contact with your lips – no swigging.
clipped, and, as keepers of a family’s honour, they have been forbidden from
mingling freely with strangers. Try approaching a village belle on the street, Photography Etiquette
and you’ll see her beat a quick retreat into the privacy of her home, her face Always ask before taking photographs. Incidents of people posing for photos only to ask for
hidden behind her sari. A Rajasthani woman’s beauty, after all, is only for money afterward are common, and some women find it offensive to be photographed. Taking
her family to appreciate. photos of shrines, funeral proceedings, religious ceremonies or of people bathing publicly can be
Screened from the outside world, most women in rural Rajasthan are considered impolite, and requesting permission in advance helps clear up any confusion. Flash
sentenced to a lifetime of strenuous household chores. If they are allowed to photography may be prohibited in certain shrines or heritage monuments.
work at all, they are paid less than their male counterparts. Besides all this,
the radically patriarchal society still doesn’t recognise them as inheritors
of family property, which almost always goes to male heirs. The birth of a generation female executives recall a time not very long ago when employ-
girl child is often seen as unlucky, since it not only means an extra mouth ers would go into a tizz every time a woman put in a request for maternity
to feed but a generous dowry that needs to be given away at the time of her leave, as motherhood had been precluded as an occasion that merited time
marriage. Embryonic sex determination, despite being illegal, is practised off from work.
on the sly, and local newspapers occasionally blow the lid off surgical rack-
ets where conniving surgeons charge huge amounts of money to carry out Treatment of Gays & Lesbians The government-run
female-foeticide operations. Homosexuality is not endorsed by Indian culture per se. The Indian Penal website www
Progress has been made, however, in the form of development pro- Code still defines sodomy as a punishable offence for being ‘against the order .exploreruralindia.
grammes run by the central and state governments, as well as nongovern- of nature’. Lesbianism, in contrast, has been left unaddressed by the law of the org has a great deal of
mental organisations (NGOs) and voluntary outfits that have swung into land. But if that leads you to believe that homosexual relations are unheard information about travel
action. Organisations such as the Barefoot College, Urmul Trust and Seva of in Indian society, the fact remains that India has more than 70 million options in the backyards
Mandir all run grass-roots programmes in Rajasthan, devoted to aware- gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender (GLBT) people. Unfortunately, the of several states across
ness, education, health issues and female empowerment, and volunteering absence of legal cover, along with fears of being rejected by society, keeps the country, including
opportunities are never lacking (see p369). most people confined to the closet. Rajasthan.
In the cities, the scene is much better. Urban women in Delhi and Jaipur On a brighter note, the intelligentsia in cities such as Delhi have of late
have worked their way to social and professional recognition, and feminists begun to mobilise public opinion against obsolete legal sanctions, besides
are no longer dismissed as fringe lunatics. Even so, some of India’s first- actively rallying for gay rights. In recent years, several books have been
 42 T H E C U LT U R E • • D a i l y L i fe lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • E c o n o m y 43

written and films made on same-sex relations, with the objective of dispelling Death
social reservations regarding alternative sexuality. Hindus cremate their dead. Deaths are mourned by Rajasthanis for a pe-
Apart from the GLBT community, India has a sizable but marginalised riod of 12 or 13 days, after which a feast known as mosar, barwa, kariya-
population of transvestites and eunuchs, who dress in women’s clothing and war or terwa is held, which formally ends the mourning. As a symbolic
are collectively called hijras. A handful of them are born hermaphrodite; the gesture, the aggrieved family has to entertain a group of community lead-
others are either gay or are kidnapped and castrated at a young age by other ers and Brahmins by treating them to an elaborate meal, regardless of their
Manvendra Singh Gohil, hijras so as to add to their dwindling community. Disliked for their queer financial standing. If the deceased happens to be a family patriarch, the
a Gujarati prince, is the ways and brash behaviour, hijras earn a living by working as uninvited en- 12th day also features a turban-tying ceremony where a successor to the
only person among tertainers at weddings and celebrations of the birth of children. When their male head is recognised by the family and society.
Indian royalty to have luck runs out, they have no option but to resort to prostitution. In the past, male deaths in Rajasthan warranted that widows end their
come out as gay. Now Moral policing is a fa-
lives by immolating themselves on their husband’s funeral pyres. Known
an activist, he plans Attitude towards HIV/AIDS vourite pastime for some
as sati, the act was traditionally seen as an event that relieved women of
to open a hospice for After South Africa, India has the world’s highest number of HIV-positive Indians, especially those
the ignominies of widowhood, and was widely practised in Rajasthan until
HIV-positive people. people, with 5.2 million reported cases as of 2006. But even as the virus associated with hardline
the princely state of Jaipur outlawed it in 1846. Mewar initially resisted the
spreads rampantly through unprotected sex, prostitution and intravenous politico-religious outfits.
ban, compelling Queen Victoria to issue a proclamation forbidding sati in
drug use, a large number of Indians continue to shy away from tackling the Violent demonstrations
1861. After Independence, Indian legislation stuck with the proclamation,
problem head on. Despite a flurry of awareness programmes, myths regard- over trivial or absurd
though intermittent cases of sati were still reported in the state, the last
ing the ailment abound, and HIV-positive people are often made to bear the issues aren’t uncommon
case coming to light as late as 1987.
brunt of social ostracism. Condom usage hasn’t picked up either; many in either.
suburban and rural India are still iffy about purchasing prophylactics across
the counter in full public view. ECONOMY
Rajasthan trails the nation’s per capita income figures by many notches.
Marriage & Divorce Agriculture has traditionally been the region’s mainstay, and almost 70%
Indian marriages were always meant to unite families, not individuals. In of rural households are engaged in working the fields. Yet, the occupation
rural Rajasthan, the case remains much the same today. Unlike in cities, is far from profitable, and has lately become even less viable, as periodic
where people now find love through online dating sites, weddings in villages droughts followed by freak flash floods have repeatedly wreaked havoc
and small towns are still arranged by parents. Those actually getting married on the regional harvest. Big-city dreams have started taking their toll too.
(read perfect strangers) have little say in the proceedings, and cross-caste Thousands of Rajasthani youths now leave home and hearth behind to
marriages are still a no-no. Few move out of their parents’ homes after tying migrate to urban centres, only to land menial jobs ranging from daily wage
the knot; setting up an independent establishment post marriage is often labourers to waiters at roadside eateries, with monthly salaries ranging
According to Hindu considered an insult to the elderly. from a meagre Rs 2000 to Rs 5000 (US$50 to US$120).
astrologers, people born By and large, marriages in rural areas are initiated by professional The recent surge in the tourism industry, however, has provided many
under the influence of matchmakers who strike a suitable match based on family status, caste locals with alternative career options. A large number of young Rajasthanis
the planet Mars suppos- and compatible horoscopes. Once a marriage is finalised, the bride’s family now earn a living from the circuit by working in guest houses, manning
edly make bad wedding arranges for a dowry to be paid to the groom’s parents, as an apprecia- counters at souvenir shops or sprucing up their knowledge of history to
matches. Called mangliks, tion of their graciously accepting the bride as a member of their family. become tourist guides.
they are believed to bring Sometimes running into hundreds of thousands of rupees, dowries can On the other end of the economic rainbow are the well-heeled tech
bad luck to their in-laws’ range from hard cash to items such as TVs, motorcycles, household furni- geeks and corporate honchos of Delhi, who bring money into the capi-
families. ture, utensils and even toiletries. Despite the exact amount of dowry being tal by tapping out strings of high-end computer codes or riding the
finalised at the time of betrothal, there have been sporadic cases reported real-estate boom. The business process outsourcing (BPO) industry has
where the groom’s family later insists that the girl’s parents cough up emerged as a lucrative industry in the past five years or so. Scores of
more, failing which the bride might be subjected to abuse and domestic outsourcing firms (commonly referred to as call centres) now dot the
violence. Stories of newly married girls dying in kitchen ‘accidents’ are not skylines of Delhi’s suburbs, providing employment to hordes of urban
uncommon either. In most cases, they leave the grooms free to remarry graduates, who take home anything from Rs 15,000 to Rs 75,000 (US$350
and claim another dowry. to US$1765) per month for their services. Easy money has predictably
Not giving two hoots about Indian law, which sets the marriageable age bumped up living standards, bringing previously unaffordable luxuries
of men and women at 21 and 18 respectively, child marriages continue within arm’s reach of urban India’s generation next.
to be practised in rural Rajasthan. It is estimated that one in every two
girls in the state’s villages are married off before they turn 15. Divorce, POPULATION
on the other hand, remains forbidden, thereby complicating things in case Rajasthan’s population has nearly doubled since 1951. There are several
marriages don’t work out. Even if a divorce is obtained, it is difficult for issues that have contributed to the phenomenon, such as improved in-
a woman to find another husband; as a divorcée, she is considered less frastructure and better medical facilities, which have led to a consider-
chaste than a spinster. Given the stigma associated with divorce, few people able drop in the mortality rate. Ironically, the local mindset has still not
have the courage to walk out on each other, instead preferring to silently registered these new-age boons, which is why procreation still follows
live through botched marriage. the norm of having ‘an heir and a spare’, just in case one offspring falls
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BHILS
TRAVELLING TIPS The largest of Rajasthan’s tribes, the Bhils live to the southeast, spilling over
into Madhya Pradesh. They speak their own distinct native language and have For comprehensive infor-
Navigation a natural talent for archery and warfare. Witchcraft, magic and superstition
Asking for directions in India can be a harrowing affair. Few locals are good at giving directions, mation on India’s native
are deeply rooted in their culture. Polygamy is still practised by those who and tribal communities,
and some would rather lead you the wrong way than admit their ignorance. It’s worth noting can afford it, and love marriages are the norm.
that the commonly used sideways wobble of the head doesn’t necessarily mean ‘no’. It can check out the website
Originally a hunter-gatherer community, the Bhils have survived years www.tribal.nic.in,
translate to: ‘yes’, ‘maybe’ or ‘I have no idea’. So never pose questions in a leading manner, like of exploitation by higher castes to finally take up small-scale agriculture.
pointing and saying ‘Is this the way to the museum?’ since you’re almost certain to get ‘yes’ maintained by the
Some have left their villages to head for the cities. Literacy is still below Ministry of Tribal Affairs
for an answer. ‘Which way to the museum?’ is better. Even if you’re given directions, crosscheck average and not too many Bhil families have many assets to speak of, but
with other people along the way. under the Government
these trends are slowly being reversed. The Baneshwar Fair (see boxed text, of India.
Tipping p224) is a huge Bhil festival, where you can sample the essence of their
If done with discretion, tipping can work wonders in India. There’s no rule of thumb regard- culture first hand.
ing how much you should tip, but, if you want an idea, here goes. Roadside eateries expect
no more than Rs 20; errand boys are happy with Rs 10. In budget or midrange hotels, tip the MINAS
room service guys about Rs 20 to Rs 50 when you check in; this ensures they don’t ignore you The Minas are the second-largest tribal group in Rajasthan and live around
through your stay. Then pass off another Rs 50 while checking out. Indians don’t tip for public Shekhawati and eastern Rajasthan. The name Mina comes from meen (fish),
services such as rickshaw rides, haircuts or porterage. Delhi’s cabbies would expect you to round and the tribe claims it evolved from the fish incarnation of Vishnu. Minas
off the fare, though. once ruled supreme in the Amber region, but their miseries began once they
were routed by the Rajputs. To make matters worse, they were outlawed
Diplomacy during the British Raj, after their guerrilla tactics earned them the ‘criminal-
Indians are naturally curious, especially about foreigners. People are likely to strike up a con- tribe’ label. Following Independence, the criminal status was lifted, and the
versation on a train journey, and some questions can be rather nosy – marital status, income, Minas subsequently took to agriculture.
food habits – so expect anything. While it’s advisable not to snub them, you can always laugh Festivities, music and dance form a vital part of Mina culture, and they
off awkward questions. In cases where they persist, be a sport – answer politely, then ask them excel in performances such as swordplay and acrobatics. Minas view marriage
back. It’s an effective way to check the volley of queries. as a noble institution, and their weddings are accompanied by enthusiastic
celebrations. They are also known to be friendly with other tribes, and don’t
Following the Crowd
mind sharing space with other communities.
If the bus you’re on breaks down in the middle of nowhere, don’t fret. Keep your wits about
you, and go with the public. The locals know best how to tackle an emergency. And being in
BISHNOIS
the company of people means you’re never left to handle a crisis all by yourself.
The Bishnois are the most progressive of Rajasthan’s indigenous com-
munities, and even have their presence on the internet (www.bishnoi
prey to untimely death. The reluctance to practise contraception is yet .org). However, they can’t be strictly classified as a tribe. The Bishnois
another reason behind the sharp rise in the head count; government- owe their origin to a visionary named Jambho Ji, who in 1485 shunned
sponsored family-planning programmes are valiantly fighting a losing the Hindu social order to form a casteless faith that took inspiration from
Bombay Calling, a 2006
battle on this front. nature. Credited as the oldest environmentalist community in India, the
documentary produced
Demographically speaking, most of the region’s population still lives in Bishnois are animal-lovers and take an active interest in preserving for-
by National Geographic,
its villages. The desert areas are scantly inhabited; western Rajasthan has ests and wildlife. Felling of trees and hunting within Bishnoi territory is
provided an in-depth
the lowest population density in the region. The metropolises, alternatively, strictly prohibited.
look into India’s BPO
industry by profiling the have attracted people from all walks of life to come and reside within their
work environment and city limits, and thus boast a high-density, multiethnic population. Religious RELIGION
ghettos can be found in places such as Ajmer and Jaipur, where a fair number Hindus comprise nearly 90% of Rajasthan’s population. Much of the re-
employees of a call centre
of Christian families currently live; the Ganganagar district, which is home maining 10% are Muslims, followed by decreasing numbers of Sikhs, Jains,
in Mumbai.
to a large number of Sikhs; and parts of Alwar and Bharatpur, where the Christians and Buddhists respectively. In spite of this religious diversity, Look up the BBC website
populace is chiefly Muslim. Though most Muslims in Rajasthan belong to tolerance levels are high, and incidents of communal violence are rare, at www.bbc.co.uk/religion
the Sunni sect, the state also has a small but affluent community of Shi’ias, least in comparison to the volatile nature of things in the neighbouring /religions for a concise
called the Bohras, living to the southeast. state of Gujarat. Most people here mind their own business, without nosing rundown of the world’s
around in others’ affairs. major religions. The site
Tribes & Indigenous Communities also lists some interesting
Rajasthan has a large indigenous population, comprising communities Hinduism & the Caste System links you can access for
that are native to the region and have lived there for centuries. Called Hinduism is among the world’s oldest religious traditions, with its roots further details.
Adivasis (ancient dwellers), most of these ethnic groups have been listed going back at least 3000 years. Theoretically, Hinduism is not a religion; it is
as Scheduled Tribes by the government. The majority of the Adivasis are a way of life, an elaborate convention that has evolved through the centuries,
pagan, though some have either taken to Hindu ways or converted to in contrast to many other religions which can trace their origins to a single
Christianity over time. founder. Despite being founded on a solid religious base, Hinduism doesn’t
46 T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n 47

HINDU GODS & GODDESSES RAJASTHAN’S FOLK GODS & GODDESSES

According to Hindu scriptures, there are around 330 million deities in the Hindu pantheon. All of Folk deities and deified local heroes abound in Rajasthan. Apart from public gods, families are
them are regarded as a manifestation of Brahman (the supreme spirit), which otherwise has three often known to pay homage to a kuladevi (family idol).
main representations, known as the Trimurti – the trio of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Pabuji is one of many local heroes to have attained divine status. His is a particularly violent
and chivalrous tale: Pabuji entered a transaction with a woman called Devalde, in which, in
Brahma return for a mare, he vowed to protect her cows from all harm. The time to fulfil this obligation
The only active role that Brahma ever played was during the creation of the universe. Since then, came, inconveniently, during Pabuji’s own marriage. However, Pabuji immediately went to the
he has been immersed in eternal meditation and is therefore regarded as aloof. His vehicle is a aid of the threatened livestock. During the ensuing battle, he, along with all the male members
swan and he is sometimes shown sitting on a lotus (see also boxed text, p210). of his family, perished at the hands of a villain called Jind Raj Khinchi. To preserve the family
line, Pabuji’s sister-in-law cut open her own belly and produced Pabuji’s nephew, Nandio, before
Vishnu & Krishna committing sati (a widow’s act of self-immolation on her husband’s funeral pyre).
Being the preserver and sustainer of the universe, Vishnu is associated with ‘right action’. He A community of professional storytellers called Bhopas have traditionally paid homage to
is usually depicted with four arms, each holding a lotus, a conch shell, a discus and a mace the hero by performing Pabuji-ka-phad, in which they recite poetry in praise of Pabuji while
respectively. His consort is Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, and his vehicle is Garuda, a creature unfurling phad (cloth-scroll) paintings that chronicle the life of the hero. You can attend these
that’s half bird, half beast. Vishnu has 10 incarnations, including Rama, Krishna and Buddha. He performances at places such as Chokhi Dhani (see p172) or Jaisalmer, if they happen at a time
is also referred to as Narayan. when you’re around.
Krishna, the hugely popular incarnation of Vishnu, was sent to earth to fight for good and Gogaji was a warrior who lived in the 11th century and could cure snakebite; today, victims
combat evil, and his exploits are documented in the Mahabharata. A shrewd politician, his flir- are brought to his shrines by both Hindu and Muslim devotees. Also believed to cure snakebite is
tatious alliances with gopis (milkmaids) and his love for Radha, his paramour, have inspired Tejaji who, according to tradition, was blessed by a snake which decreed that anyone honouring
countless paintings and songs. Tejaji by wearing a thread in his name would be cured of snakebite.
Goddesses revered by Rajasthanis include incarnations of Devi (the Mother Goddess), such
Shiva & Parvati as the fierce Chamunda Mata, an incarnation of Durga; Sheetala Mata, the goddess of smallpox
Although he plays the role of the destroyer, Shiva’s creative role is symbolised by his representa- who is invoked by parents who want their children to be spared from the affliction; and Karni
tion as the frequently worshipped lingam (phallus). A hippie of sorts, he lives in the Himalayas, Mata, worshipped at Deshnok (see the Temple of Rats, p348) near Bikaner. Women who have
smokes marijuana, smears his body with ash, and has a third eye on his forehead that symbolises committed sati on their husband’s funeral pyres are also frequently worshipped as goddesses,
wisdom. With snakes draped around his neck, he is sometimes shown holding a trident while such as Rani Sati, who has an elaborate temple in her honour in Jhunjhunu (p286), in Shekhawati.
riding Nandi the bull. With 1008 names, Shiva takes many forms, including Pashupati, champion Barren women pay homage to the god Bhairon, an incarnation of Shiva, at his shrines, which are
of the animals, and Nataraja, performer of the tandava (cosmic dance of fury). He is also the usually found under khejri trees. In order to be blessed with a child, the woman is required to
lord of yoga. leave a garment hanging from the branches of the tree. The deified folk hero Ramdev also has
Shiva’s consort is the beautiful goddess Parvati, who in her dark side appears as Kali, the an important temple at Ramdevra (p319), near Pokaran in western Rajasthan.
fiercest of the gods who demands sacrifices and wears a garland of skulls. Alternatively, she
appears as the fair Durga, the demon slayer, who wields supreme power, holds weapons in her
10 hands and rides a tiger or a lion. (the endless cycle of birth, death and rebirth). It is said that the road to
salvation lies through righteous karma (actions which evoke subsequent In Hinduism, the syllable
Ganesh reactions), which leads to moksha (emancipation), when the soul eventu- ‘Om’ is believed to be a
The jolly, pot-bellied, elephant-headed Ganesh is held in great affection by Indians. He is the ally returns to unite with the supreme spirit. primordial sound from
god of good fortune, prosperity and the patron of scribes, being credited with writing sections If that’s not complex enough, things are convoluted further by the caste which the entire universe
of the Mahabharata. Ganesh is good at removing obstacles, and he’s frequently spotted above system, which broadly divides Hindus into four distinct classes based on takes shape. It is also a
doorways and entrances of Indian homes. their mythical origins and their occupations. On top of the caste hierarchy sacred symbol, repre-
are the Brahmins, priests who supposedly originated from Brahma’s mouth. sented by an icon shaped
Hanuman Next come the Kshatriyas, the warriors who evolved from the deity’s arms – like the number three.
Hanuman is the hero of the Ramayana and is Rajasthan’s most popular god. He is the loyal ally of this is the caste that the Rajputs fit into. Vaishyas, tradespeople born from
lord Rama, and the images of Rama and his wife Sita are emblazoned upon his heart. He is king the thighs, are third in the pecking order, below which stand the Shudras.
of the monkeys, and thus assures them refuge in temple complexes across the country. Alternatively called Dalits or Scheduled Castes, the Shudras comprise
menial workers such as peasants, janitors or cobblers and are known to Darshan and puja are
stem from Brahma’s feet. Caste, by the way, is not changeable. fundamental concepts
have a specific theology, or even a central religious institution. It also has no of Hindu worship, which
provision for conversion; one is always born a Hindu. Islam require people to visit a
Being an extremely diverse religion, Hinduism can’t be summed up Islam was founded in Arabia by the Prophet Mohammed in the 7th century temple and make a ritual
by a universal definition. Yet, there are a few principal tenets that most AD. The Arabic term ‘Islam’ means ‘surrender’, and believers undertake offering of flowers and
Hindu sects tend to go by. Hindus believe that all life originates from a to surrender to the will of Allah (God), which is revealed in the Quran, the fruits in return for divine
supreme spirit called Brahman, a formless, timeless phenomenon mani- holy book of Islam. A devout Muslim is required to pray five times a day, blessings.
fested by Brahma, the Hindu lord of creation. Upon being born, all living keep daylong fasts through the month of Ramadan, and make a pilgrimage
beings are required to engage in dharma (worldly duties) and samsara to the holy city of Mecca in Saudi Arabia, if possible.
48 T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • S p o r t 49

Sikhism
HINDU SACRED TEXTS & EPICS Now among the world’s largest religions, Sikhism was founded on the
Hindu sacred texts fall under two categories: those believed to be the word of God (shruti, mean- sermons of 10 Sikh gurus, beginning with Guru Nanak Dev (1469–1539).
ing ‘hearing’) and those produced by people (smriti, meaning ‘memory’). The core values and ideology of Sikhism are embodied in the Guru Granth Among all the deities
Sahib, the holy book of the Sikhs which is also considered the eternal guru in the Hindu pantheon,
The Vedas of Sikhism. The Sikhs evolved as an organised community over time, and the gods Vishnu and
Introduced in the subcontinent by the Aryans, the Vedas are regarded as shruti knowledge and devoted themselves to the creation of a standing militia called the khalsa, Shiva have the largest
are considered to be the authoritative basis for Hinduism. The oldest works of Sanskrit literature, which carried out religious, political and martial duties and protected the number of devotees.
the Vedas contain mantras that are recited at prayers and religious ceremonies. The Vedas are Sikhs from foreign threats. The religion, on its part, grew around the central Their followers are called
divided into four Samhitas (compilations); the Rig-Veda, the oldest of the Samhitas, is believed concept of Vaheguru, the universal lord, an eventual union with whom is Vashnavites and Shaivites
to be written more than 3000 years ago. Other Vedic works include the Brahmanas, touching believed to result in salvation. The Sikhs believe that salvation is achieved respectively.
on rituals; the Aranyakas whose name means the ‘wilderness texts’, meant for ascetics who through rigorous discipline and meditation, which help them overcome the
have renounced the material world; and the Upanishads, which discuss meditation, philosophy, five evils – ego, greed, attachment, anger and lust.
mysticism and the fate of the soul.
Jainism
Puranas, Sutras & Shastras The Jain religion was founded around 500 BC by Mahavira, the 24th and last
The Puranas comprise a post-Vedic genre that chronicles the history of the universe, royal line- of the Jain tirthankars (path finders). Jainism originally evolved as a reformist Sufism is a mystic
ages, philosophy and cosmology. The Sutras, on the other hand, are essentially manuals, and movement against the dominance of priests in Hindu society. It steered clear tradition derived from
contain useful information on different human activities. Some well known Sutras are Griha of complicated rituals, rejected the caste system, and believed in reincarnation Islam, which originated
Sutra, dealing with the nuances of domestic life; Nyaya Sutra, detailing the faculty of justice and eventual moksha by following the example of the tirthankars. in medieval times. Being
and debate; and Kamasutra, a compendium of love and sexual behaviour. The Shastras are also Jains are strict vegetarians and revere all forms of life. The religion has largely secular, it has
instructive in nature, but are more technical as they provide information pertaining to specific two main sects. The Svetambaras (White Clad) wear unstitched white gar- attracted followers from
areas of practice. Vaastu Shastra, for example, is an architect’s handbook that elaborates on the ments; the monks cover their mouths so as not to inhale insects and brush other religions and is
art of civic planning, while Artha Shastra focuses heavily on governance, economics and military their path before they walk to avoid crushing small creatures. The monks widely practised in North
policies of the state. belonging to the Digambaras (Sky Clad), in comparison, go naked. Jainism India.
preaches nonviolence, and its followers are markedly successful in banking
The Mahabharata and business, which they consider nonviolent professions.
This 2500-year-old rip-roaring epic centres on the conflict between two fraternal dynasties, the
Pandavas and the Kauravas, overseen by Krishna. Locked in a struggle to inherit the throne of SPORT
Hastinapura, the Kauravas win the first round of the feud, beating the Pandavas in a game of Cricket is a national obsession in India. Nearly everybody claims to un-
dice and banishing them from the kingdom. The Pandavas, however, return after 13 years and derstand the game down to its finer points, and can comment on it with
challenge the Kauravas to an epic battle, from which they emerge victorious. endless vigour. Shops down shutters and streets take on a deserted look
Being the longest epic in the world, unabridged versions of the Mahabharata incorporate the every time India happens to be playing a test match or a crucial one-day
Bhagavad Gita, the holy book of the Hindus, which contains the worldly advice given by Krishna game. The arrival of the Twenty20 format and new domestic leagues such
to Pandava prince Arjuna before the start of the battle. as the Indian Premier League (IPL) has only taken the game’s popularity a
notch further.
The Ramayana While other mainstream sports pale in comparison to cricket, a few
Composed around the 2nd or 3rd century BC, the Ramayana tells of Rama, an incarnation of traditional pastimes continue to be patronised by niche spectators in Delhi
Vishnu, who assumed human form to facilitate the triumph of good over evil. Much like the and Rajasthan. In Old Delhi, people still take active interest in kabutarbaazi
Mahabharata, the Ramayana revolves around a great war, waged by Rama, his brother Lakshmana (pigeon flying). Despite lobbying by animal-rights activists, cock-fighting
and an army of apes led by Hanuman against Ravana, the demon king who had kidnapped events are held now and then, and garner plenty of attention. The Nats, a
Rama’s wife Sita and had held her hostage in his kingdom of Lanka (Sri Lanka). After slaying roaming Rajasthani community, have long excelled in acrobatics, which
Ravana, Rama returned to his kingdom of Ayodhya, his homecoming forming the basis for the they now perform as a means of revenue generation. The acts (tightrope
important Hindu festival of Dussehra (see boxed text, p224). walking, bamboo-pole balancing) can be seen at Chokhi Dhani (see p172)
near Jaipur.
Islam is monotheistic. God is held as unique, unlimited, self-sufficient and Interestingly, many people belonging to Rajasthan’s elite classes retain a
the supreme creator of all things. God never speaks to humans directly; his soft spot for polo, a game which was popularised in the state by the Rajput
word is instead conveyed through messengers called prophets, who are never kings. Cities such as Jodhpur and Udaipur still foster a culture for the
themselves divine. The religion has two prominent sects, the minority Shi’ias sport, and the royal houses maintain stables of thoroughbreds for use in
(originating from Mohammed’s descendants) and the majority Sunnis, who the game.
split soon after the death of Mohammed owing to political differences, and
have since gone on to establish their own interpretations and rituals. The most ARTS
important pilgrimage site for Muslims in Rajasthan is the extraordinary dargah If the Rajputs knew how to fight, they also knew how to create art. Rajasthan’s
(burial place) of the saint Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti (p201) at Ajmer. culture is a celebration of beauty, manifested through its architecture, music,
dance, painting and poetry. The state also has a rich legacy of handicrafts
 50 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 51

VH1, HBO), nature and travel networks (National Geographic, Discovery)

MUMAL & MAHENDRA and a host of newscasters, many of which compete with each other 24/7 by
It was love at first sight for Mahendra of Umarkot. Every night he raced to the beautiful princess slapping the ‘breaking-news’ tag on trivial stories.
Mumal’s chamber, borne by a swift camel named Chekal. As Mahendra had to travel at night to Out of home, it’s cinema that rules. India has the world’s biggest film
visit Mumal in the distant village of Lodhruva, near Jaisalmer, he had little energy left to perform industry. Films come in all languages, the majority pumped out by the Hindi
his husbandly duties to the satisfaction of his eight wives. One day, the aggrieved wives – sus- tinsel town of Bollywood in Mumbai, and Mollywood, its Tamil counter-
pecting his nocturnal visits to the princess – beat up Chekal, leaving Mahendra at the mercy of part, in Chennai. Most productions, however, are formulaic flicks that seize Watching a Bollywood
a less-competent camel, which subsequently lost its way. mass attention with hackneyed motifs – unrequited love, action that verges blockbuster in a
Meanwhile, Mumal’s sister Sumal decided to pay her a visit. Sumal was in the habit of wearing on caricature, slapstick humour, wet saris and plenty of sexual innuendo. neighbourhood cinema
men’s clothes, and fell asleep next to Mumal. When Mahendra finally reached Mumal’s apartment, Nonetheless, the past 10 years have seen upscale productions aimed at a with the local audience
he was confronted by the sight of her lying next to another man. He fled from the chamber, burgeoning multiplex audience. Check out the cricket extravaganza Lagaan, is a terrific experience.
vowing never to lay eyes on her again, and bitterly cursing the inconstancy of women. Mumal the patriotic Rang De Basanti, or Shakespearean adaptations such as Maqbool Try Jaipur’s Raj Mandir
waited every night for him, finally pining away with grief. When Mahendra heard of her death, (Macbeth) and Omkara (Othello). Some of these films have done the rounds Cinema and Delite or
and realised his misunderstanding, he was driven insane with grief. at the Oscars, and shouldn’t leave you disappointed. Golcha in Old Delhi.
Despite being far from popular, India also has a critically acclaimed,
rock-steady art-house movement. Pioneered by the likes of Satyajit Ray,
which are prized the world over, both for their intricate craftsmanship and Adoor Gopalakrishnan, Ritwik Ghatak and Shyam Benegal, the tradition
ornamental appeal (see Rajasthani Arts & Crafts, p53). now boasts directors such as Mira Nair (Salaam Bombay, Monsoon Wedding,
The Namesake) and Deepa Mehta (Earth, Water, Fire).
Literature
For a long time, Rajasthan’s storytelling tradition was solely oral. Among Music
the earliest known Rajasthani written works available today are paeans such Like elsewhere in India, Hindi pop songs and film soundtracks crackle
as Khuman Raso (Songs of Khuman), the tale of a Sisodia king written by joyfully out of speakers all over Rajasthan. But at the same time, folk music
Dalapat Vijaya in the 9th century, and the epic Prithviraj Raso (Songs of remains a vital, living part of traditional Rajasthani culture. Commonly,
The state-sponsored Prithviraj), written by Prithviraj Chauhan’s court poet Chand Bardai in the folk music comprises ballads that, like the region’s literature, relate heroic
Sahitya Akademi in late 12th century. deeds or love stories, and religious or devotional songs known as bhajans
Delhi is devoted to the In subsequent years, Rajasthan produced several talented writers who and banis. Various communities in the state, such as the Dhadhis and the
promotion of vernacular wrote either in the Marwari dialect or Dingal – a literary form of Rajasthani Dholis, specialise in professional singing, and good places to hear some of The sitar, a musical
Indian literature. It which evolved in the 15th century. Common literary genres included folk it are the Jaisalmer Fort (p324), Shilpgram (p247) in Udaipur, and Chokhi instrument with sym-
grants annual awards tales, songs and ballads based on heroic accounts, religious legends and Dhani (p172) outside Jaipur. Sufi hymns are a widely popular form as well, pathetic strings, seven
of Rs 50,000 each in 22 tragic love stories such as those of Dhola Maru (see boxed text, p292) and and there’s always some of it happening either at the dargah in Ajmer (p201), of which are playable,
language categories. the princess Mumal (see boxed text, above). Apart from chronicling society, or the shrine of Nizam-ud-din in Delhi (p106). is used widely by Indian
these works also helped purvey the image of the brave Rajput warrior, by In an attempt to popularise traditional music among the urban populace, classical musicians. It
glorifying traits such as heroism, chivalry, virtue and sacrifice. a few contemporary musicians such as Ila Arun and Delhi fusion band was popularised in the
Contemporary literature, in contrast, is heavily English-oriented, though Indian Ocean have dabbled in experimentation, thereby either reinventing West by Beatle George
many people still continue to write in vernacular languages. A few great folk music or fusing it with modern arrangements to create a unique sound Harrison.
titles which look into the social, psychological and historical aspects of the which has clicked instantly with the city-bred (see boxed text, p52). Genres
region include Raj, by Gita Mehta, a moving story of a young Rajput princess such as Indian and Western classical, rock ’n’ roll and jazz have always had
contracted in marriage to an arrogant prince; Delhi: a Novel by Khushwant their own niche audiences, mostly in the cities. Blues is currently on an
Singh, a funny and irreverent take on Delhi’s history through the experi- upswing; the Haze Bar (p117) in Delhi has live gigs on a regular basis, where
ences of several generations of inhabitants; and the novels City of Djinns, bands from Kolkata, Mumbai and northeast India play out spirited 12-bar
The White Mughals and The Last Mughal by William Dalrymple, the British jams to a packed house.
author who calls Delhi his second home.
With Delhi-based writers Arundhati Roy, Rajkamal Jha and Pankaj Mishra Architecture
bagging six-digit dollar advances for their novels in recent times, the city The magnificence of Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan’s architectural heritage is
has lately become a literary capital, with scores of authors routinely churn- astounding, and the province is home to some of India’s best-known build-
ing out quality fiction and nonfiction. The trend has rubbed off on Jaipur, ings. From temples and mosques to mansions and mausoleums, the region
which is now home to an annual international literary festival, held there has it all. Most spectacular, however, are the fairy-tale forts and palaces,
every year since 2006. built by Rajputs and Mughals, which bear testimony to the celebrated his-
tory of North India.
Cinema & Television
Television provides stock recreation for most Indian families. The opening TEMPLES
up of the airwaves in the early 1990s brought satellite TV into the country, Rajasthan’s earliest surviving temples date from the Gupta period. Built be-
and the industry hasn’t looked back since. Today, Indian viewers can choose tween the 4th and 6th century, these temples are small and their architecture
from sports channels (ESPN, Star Sports), entertainment channels (MTV, restrained – the Sheetaleshvara Temple (p234) at Jhalrapatan is a notable
 52 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 61

(Continued from page 52)

RECOMMENDED LISTENING
boat. Magnificent examples of Rajput architecture across the state include
„ The albums Banjaran, Vote for Ghaghra and Khichri by folk singer Ila Arun. Noted for her husky the Amber Fort (p178) and the Hawa Mahal (p157) in Jaipur, and the City
voice, Arun’s music oozes the essence of the desert and the spirit of wandering gypsies. Some Palace (p244) in Udaipur.
of her songs are rather tongue-in-cheek with catchy tunes; others have a dash of blues or The forts and palaces of Delhi and Agra, conversely, adhere to the Islamic
traditional courtly music thrown in. style, with intricate marblework, ornate pietre dura (stone inlay) panels, arched
„ Kandisa and Jhini by Indian Ocean, a fusion band from Delhi known for its signature sound and entrances and symmetrical, four-square gardens. Mausoleums and mosques,
its inspiring compositions which are founded on Indian folk and classical music. Desert Rain, its such as the Taj Mahal (p1330) and the Jama Masjid (p98), are capped by onion-
live album recorded in 1997, hit number two on the iTunes world music charts in 2006. shaped domes and flanked by minarets. Almost every dynasty that ruled in The Kumbalgarh Fort, a
„ The concert performances of Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan, a Pakistani musician who redefined Qaw- Delhi built its own fort and monuments in the city. Though they all follow former Mewar stronghold
wali, the devotional music of the Sufis. As a musician ahead of his time, Khan, who died in Islamic architectural style, subtle differences exist among these structures due in the Rajsamand district
1997, was so devoted to spreading the message of Sufism that he collaborated heavily with to their having come up centuries apart from each other. of Rajasthan, has the
Western artists such as Eddie Vedder and Peter Gabriel, and often sang into personal tape Towards the end of the British era, a novel architectural style called the second-longest fortifica-
recorders of fans, without caring about piracy. Indo-Saracenic school emerged in India, which blended Victorian and tion in the world after the
Islamic elements into a highly wrought, frilly whole. Some striking build- Great Wall of China.
„ Kailasa, by Kailash Kher, a Delhi singer trained in classical music who happens to be one of
ings were produced in this style, including Albert Hall (p158) and Jai Mahal
India’s most celebrated New Age singers. Kher’s music also takes root in Sufism, but is open
(now a hotel, p169) in Jaipur, Lallgarh Palace (p342) in Bikaner and Mayo
to experimentation and fusion.
College (p201) in Ajmer.
„ The classical performances of Shubha Mudgal, the lady with a mesmerising voice who has
often brought about a union of classical music with contemporary Indian pop. Look out for HAVELIS
her cult mainstream release, Ab Ke Sawan. Rajasthani merchants built ornately decorated residences called havelis,
and commissioned masons and artists to ensure they were constructed and
decorated in a manner befitting the owners’ importance and prosperity. The
example. Temple architecture (both Hindu and Jain) developed through the Shekhawati district of northern Rajasthan is riddled with such mansions that
8th and 9th centuries, and began to incorporate stunning sculptural work, are covered with extraordinarily vibrant murals (see boxed text, p283). There
which can be seen on temples at Osiyan (p317) and Chittorgarh (p238). are other beautiful havelis in Jaisalmer, constructed of sandstone, featuring
Structurally, the temples usually tapered into a single sikhara (spire) and had the fine work of renowned local silavats (stone carvers).
a mandapa (pillared pavilion before the inner sanctum). The Dilwara complex
(p265) at Mt Abu epitomises the architecture of this era. Built in the 11th cen- WELLS, TANKS & CHHATRIS
The Archaeological tury, it has marble carvings that reach unsurpassed heights of virtuosity.
Survey of India, a govern- Given the importance of water in Rajasthan, it’s unsurprising that the archi-
Delhi, traditionally an Islamic stronghold, has few ancient temples to boast tecture of wells and reservoirs rival other structures in the region. The most
ment body, currently of. Nevertheless, the city is known for two spectacular modern structures. The
protects and maintains impressive regional baoris (step-wells) are Raniji-ki-Baori (p225) in Bundi and
Lotus Temple (p107), built in 1986 as a place of worship for the Bahai com- the extraordinary Chand Baori (p181) near Jaipur (see boxed text, p260).
heritage monuments of munity, is a magnificent modern building shaped like a nine-sided lotus with
national importance, and Chhatris (cenotaphs) are a statewide architectural curiosity, built to com-
marble-clad petals. It has won several architectural awards for its design. In memorate maharajas and, as is the case in the Shekhawati district, wealthy Fascinating and detailed,
conducts excavations at 2005, Delhi got its second grand temple, Swaminarayan Akshardham, which The Royal Palaces of
ancient sites. merchants. In rare instances, chhatris also commemorate women, such as the
holds a Guinness record for being the world’s largest comprehensive Hindu Chhatri of Moosi Rani (p195) at Alwar. Literally translating to ‘umbrella’, a India by writer George
temple. Made entirely out of stone, it features permanent exhibitions, boat chhatri comprises a central dome, supported by a series of pillars on a raised Michell and photographer
rides, an IMAX theatre and musical fountains within its complex. platform, with a sequence of small pavilions on the corners and sides. Antonio Martinelli is a
comprehensive guide
The courtyard of Delhi’s Painting & Sculpture including maps to the
FORTS & PALACES
grand residences of the
Jama Masjid can hold The fabulous citadels of Rajasthan owe their origins to reasons ranging from MINIATURES
Rajasthan is famed for its miniatures – small-scale paintings that are ex- Indian royalty.
up to 25,000 devotees mandatory fortification to the realisation of royal whims. Rajput kings often
during namaz. The spent lavishly on these structures, to flaunt their status to the world, if nothing ecuted on small surfaces, but cram in a surprising amount of detail by way
mosque houses several else. Sometimes, the beauty was heightened by having the palace reflected in an of delicate brushwork. Originating in the 16th and 17th centuries, they led
relics, including a copy artificial pool or reservoir, such as in Deeg (p193) and Alwar (p194). to the emergence of eminent schools such as Marwar, Mewar, Bundi-Kota,
of the Quran written on Most of Rajasthan’s forts and palaces were built between the 15th and Amber and Kishangarh, among others. Each school had its own stylistic
deer skin. 18th centuries, which coincided with the Mughal reign in Delhi and saw the identity; while paintings from the Mewar school depicted court life, festi-
Rajputs borrowing a few architectural motifs from the Mughals. The concept vals, ceremonies, elephant fights and hunts, those from the Marwar school
of the sheesh mahal (hall of mirrors) was adopted from Muslim architecture, featured vivid colours and heroic, whiskered men accompanied by dainty
as was the use of pillared arches. Another ornamentation that was widely maidens. Miniatures gained immense value as souvenirs with the coming
used across Rajasthan was the spired Bengal roof, shaped like an inverted of the tourism boom.
Rajasthani painters derived their colours mostly from natural sources;
(Continued on page 61) vegetables dyes were commonly used, as were pigments from minerals and
 62 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 63

crushed semiprecious stones. In ancient times, the vibrant gold and silver community called the Kalbelias, traditionally associated with snake charm-
colouring used in many palaces was obtained from finely pounded pure gold ing, performs swirling dances such as the shankaria, while the Siddha Jats
and silver leaf. Miniatures can be spotted all over Rajasthan, on surfaces rang- of Bikaner are renowned for their spectacular fire dance, performed on
ing from handmade paper to ivory, marble, wood, cloth and leather. a bed of hot coals, which supposedly leaves no burns. You could catch
up on some of the action at tourist hubs such as Udaipur (see p256) and
PHAD & FRESCO Chokhi Dhani (see p172).
Apart from miniatures, Rajasthan is also renowned for a kind of scroll paint-
ing called phad, which is done on cloth and portrays deities, mythology and Puppetry
legends of Rajput kings. Bhilwara, near Udaipur, is one of the better-known Puppetry is one of Rajasthan’s most acclaimed, yet endangered, performing
centres for phad scrolls. See also the Arts & Crafts colour section p61. arts. Puppeteers first emerged in the 19th century, and would travel from
Fresco painting, originally developed in Italy, arrived in Rajasthan with village to village like wandering minstrels, relaying stories through narra-
Nathdwara, 48km from the Mughals, and its finest examples can be seen in the exquisitely muralled tion, music and an animated performance that featured wooden puppets
Udaipur, is the centre havelis of Shekhawati. Other kinds of painted houses can be seen in certain on strings called kathputlis. Puppetry is now a dying art; waning patronage
for pichwai (religious tribal areas, where earthen walls are decorated with pithoras – naïve, ap- and lack of paying audiences has forced many puppeteers to give up the
paintings on home-spun pealing designs rendered in white – which were believed to bring luck and art form and switch to agriculture or menial labour. The puppets, however, The website www
cloth) which are hung keep away evil spirits. have retained their value as souvenirs. Organisations such as the Barefoot .artindia.net keeps
behind images of Krishna College (see p207) now make use of puppetry as a medium to spread use- enthusiasts in tune with
(locally worshipped as Sri PORTRAITURE ful information on health, education and human rights. the best of classical music
Nathji). Borrowed from the Mughals, the concept of royal portraiture was encouraged and dance happening
in Rajput courts from the 17th century onward. They took off on a stylised around India, and has
note, and depicted maharajas engaged in typical activities including hunting,
Theatre an excellent repository
Modern theatre is firmly rooted in Delhi’s thriving culture circuit. The city
fighting, wooing women and attending the durbar (royal court). Unlike the of articles on perform-
has a host of quality theatre institutions, including the prestigious National
Mughals, who used muted colours to give their portraits a sense of shadow ing arts.
School of Drama, the Shri Ram Centre and Janam, founded in 1973 by
and depth, the Rajputs went overboard with bold primaries. The 19th century
late thespian-activist Safdar Hashmi. In recent years, the construction of
heralded a decline in portraiture in Rajasthan, perhaps reflecting the fading
state-of-the-art auditoriums and availability of corporate sponsorship has
power of the maharajas, and the practice was diluted further with the arrival
helped Delhi’s theatre flourish in a significant way.
of photography soon after.

SCULPTURE & STONEWORK

The abundance of natural marble and sandstone deposits has helped breed
generations of stonemasons and sculptors in Rajasthan. The most famous
marble quarries were located in Makrana, from where the marble used
in the Taj Mahal and the Dilwara Temples was sourced. The quarries of
Dungarpur yielded a soft stone that was used for carving images of deities,
which turned a rich, lustrous black when oiled. Most of Rajasthan, Delhi and
Agra’s forts were built out of red sandstone, which was mined from deposits
in the Aravalli Hills. The exceptional Jaisalmer Fort (p324) and the Agra
Fort (p135) were among the other group of sandstone structures, sculpted
out of yellow sandstone.

Dance
Folk dance forms in Rajasthan are generally associated with indigenous
tribes and communities of nomadic gypsies. Each region has its own dance
specialities. The ghoomer (pirouette) is performed by Bhil women at festi-
vals or weddings, and its form varies from one village to another. The Bhils
are also known for gair, a men-only dance, that’s performed at springtime
Ghungroos are anklets festivities. Combine the two, and you get gair-ghoomer, where women, in a
made of metallic bells small inner circle, are encompassed by men in a larger circle, who determine
strung together, worn by the rhythm by beating sticks and striking drums.
Indian classical danc- Among other popular forms, the kachhi ghori dance of eastern Rajasthan
ers to accentuate their resembles a battle performance, where dancers ride cloth or paper horses
complex footwork during and spar away with swords and shields. To the south, the neja is danced
performances. by the Minas of Kherwara and Dungarpur just after Holi. A coconut is
placed on a large pole, which the men try to dislodge, while the women
strike the men with sticks and whips to foil their attempts. A nomadic
52 53

Rajasthani
Arts & Crafts

Brilliant bangles glitter in rows in Jaipur RICHARD I’ANSON

54 R A J A S T HA N I A R T S & C R A F T S 55

PAINTING
Rajasthan’s miniature painting flourished under princely patronage from the 11th century
AD and beyond, with seven different ‘schools’, corresponding to seven Rajput principali-
ties, each displaying its own individual conventions. Tackling religious and mythological
subjects as well as plenty of courtly love, these tiny, delicate paintings were picked out
in clear, bright colours and painted onto cotton, paper or silk; modern copies are widely
available today.
The ancient art of phad (scroll) painting also survives in Rajasthan, whereby a long
rectangular cloth is meticulously painted to depict the exploits of folk legend. Modern art,
too, has its place in larger cities: try the splendid Juneja Art Gallery (p173) for a glimpse
of contemporary Rajasthani art.
Finally, mural painting, especially in the Shekhawati region, has always played an im-
portant part in Rajasthan’s artistic life. The region’s painted havelis (traditional ornately
decorated residences) form a sort of open-air art gallery, with work in a kaleidoscope of
colour and styles (see p283). If the havelis inspire you, you can try mural painting yourself
in Jhunjhunu (p287).

Rajasthani dancers from a Bhil tribe create swirls of colour at Jaipur’s Elephant Festival (p148)
PAUL BEINSSEN PAPER MAKING
Paper making is centred in Sanganer, near Jaipur, whose paper has traditionally been the
The most vivid impression that visitors to Rajasthan take away with most celebrated in India. The process makes environmentally friendly use of discarded
them is that of colour: searingly bright tribal dress, luminescent lor- fabric rags, which are soaked, pulped, strained, beaten and then spread out to dry on
ries and camels dressed to impress in a rainbow hotchpotch of bob- frames. Though some of the town’s factories nowadays use machines, there are plenty of
bing baubles. places that still perform the entire process by hand – view the racks of paper spread out to
The local people have a passion for decoration, having historically taken advantage of their dry along Sanganer’s river, or pop in for a visit at one of the town’s 10 or so paper-making
position on trade routes to learn new artistic skills. Their adoration of adornment is evi- factories (p180).
dent in the gorgeous painted houses of Shekhawati in northern Rajasthan, in the manifold
variations of Rajasthani turbans (which are said to change in style every 10km) and in the Ornate frescoes cover the façade of the Haveli Nadine Le Prince (p292) in Fatehpur
JOHN SONES

state’s women, from their block-printed odhnis (headscarves) right down to their brilliantly
embroidered jootis (traditional Rajasthani leather shoes).
In a state whose natural environment is characterised by the stark, two-tone combina-
tion of sand and sky, the people of Rajasthan have created enduring, enchanting beauty to
adorn a bleak and arid land.

RESPONSIBLE SHOPPING
Aside from not maxing out your credit card or buying too much to fit in your backpack, there are
several ways to ensure that you’re shopping responsibly in Rajasthan.
Consider shopping at cooperatives, which have been set up to protect the income of day
labourers and promote handicraft producers at a grass-roots level.
Don’t buy the assorted pieces of antique house fixtures you’ll see up for sale, which may be
slowly stripping the land of its traditional architecture.
Ask to visit the place where a shop’s items are manufactured. It’s at least one way of seeing for
yourself the conditions under which workers are producing goods.
Check out the listings in Smart Shopping (p57), which includes shops and organisations
dedicated to promoting Rajasthan’s artisans.
56 R A J A S T HA N I A R T S & C R A F T S 57

SMART SHOPPING
Asha Handicrafts Association (www.ashahandicrafts.org) supports Rajasthani artisans, including
producers of blue pottery, leather goods and block-printed textiles.
Barefoot College (www.barefootcollege.org; p207), based in Tilonia, runs artisan-development
initiatives. Its craft output can be bought online at www.store.tilonia.com.
Seva Mandir (www.sevamandir.org; see also p370) is an Udaipur-based initiative that is dedi-
cated to improving the lives of rural Rajasthani people. In Udaipur, you can buy their products
THIS IMAGE at Sadhna (p256).
NOT AVAILABLE The Urmul Trust (see also p371) is a local NGO that sells artisans’ diverse products at the
IN PICK & MIX Abhivyakti shop in Bikaner (p346).
Anokhi (p174) is a Jaipur clothing and textile manufacturer that produces high-quality items
and provides good working conditions.
At Ranthambhore National Park, the Dastkar Craft Centre (p219) promotes handicrafts produced
by low-caste women in local villages.
Sanganer’s paper products (p180) are almost all made from recycled fabric, with not a felled
tree in sight.

LEATHERWORK
Leatherworking has a long history in Rajasthan. Leather shoes known as jootis are produced
JEWELLERY, GEMS & ENAMELWORK in Jodhpur and Jaipur, often featuring ornate embroidery (kashida). Strange to Western
The patronage of Rajput princes historically helped Rajasthan’s jewellery industry thrive. eyes and feet, there is no ‘right’ or ‘left’: both shoes are identical but after a few wears they
But jewellery in Rajasthan has never been entirely the domain of the rich. Even in the state’s begin to conform to the wearer’s feet. Jaipur is the best place to buy jootis, with prices
poorest villages, women can be seen bedecked in large and elaborate silver folk jewellery, ranging from Rs 50 to Rs 700 per pair – don’t miss the marvellous UN-supported Mojari
along with armfuls of colourful bangles made of lac (resin), gold leaf and mirrorwork. The (p174) shoe shop.
quality of the jewellery indicates the relative economic status of the wearer, along with The town of Alwar is known for its beautiful leather book-bindings, a craft that
their caste, ethnic group and social position, and consequently you may see women lugging flourished under Maharaja Banni Singh in the early 19th century. Bikaner, meanwhile,
around ornaments weighing as much as 5kg. is famous for its usta (gold-painted camel leather) products. Some fine examples can
Two jewellery-making styles particularly prevalent in Rajasthan are kundan and meena- be seen in Bikaner’s Ganga Government Museum ( p342 ); leather goods are sold,
kari work. Kundan involves setting gemstones into silver or gold pieces; one symbolic appropriately enough, on Usta St (p346).
variation is known as navratan, in which
An exquisitely decorated Rajasthani woman
JOHN SONES
nine different gems are set into an item of Jootis (traditional Rajasthani leather shoes) embellished with rich embroidery and dazzling sequins
GUYLAIN DOYLE

jewellery, corresponding to the nine plan-

ets of Indian astrology. This way, it’s an
eternally lucky item to have about your
person, since you will always be wearing,
at any given time, the symbol of the rul-
ing planetary body. Meenakari, meanwhile,
is a gorgeous type of enamelwork, that is
usually applied to a base of silver or gold.
Jaipur’s pieces of meenakari are valued for
their vibrant tones – especially the highly
prized rich ruby-red. A fantastic selection
can be found on sale at the city’s Johari
Bazaar (p173).
58 R A J A S T HA N I A R T S & C R A F T S 59

TEXTILES
Rajasthan is renowned for its blazing textiles. Riotously woven, dyed, block or resist printed
and embroidered, they are on sale almost everywhere you look throughout the state. You
can also seek out specialist favourites, such
as the kota doria (gold-woven) fabric from
the village of Kaithoon near Kota (p228),
woven in silk, cotton and pure-gold thread
for exquisite, delicate saris. Intricate band-
hani (tie-dye), whereby sections of fabric THIS IMAGE
are tied and knotted before dyeing, often NOT AVAILABLE
carries symbolic meanings when used to IN PICK & MIX
make odhnis (headscarves). A yellow back-
THIS IMAGE ground indicates that the wearer has re-
NOT AVAILABLE cently given birth, while red circles on that
background means she’s had a son. You can
IN PICK & MIX
buy tie-dyed cloth all over Rajasthan, and
in Nawalgarh in Shekhawati you can even
learn to do it yourself (see p280).
Traditionally, all Rajasthan’s textile col-
ours were derived from natural sources
such as vegetables, minerals and even in-
sects. Yellow, for instance, came from tur-
meric and buttermilk; green from banana
leaves; orange from saffron and jasmine; EMBROIDERY
black from iron rust; blue from the indigo During the Mughal period, embroidery workshops known as kaarkhanas were established
plant; red from sugar cane and sunflowers; and purple from the kermes insect. Today, to train artisans so that the royal families were ensured an abundant supply of richly
however, the vast majority are synthetically dyed; while they may not possess the subtlety embroidered cloth. Finely stitched tapestries, inspired by miniature paintings, were also
of the traditional tones, they will, at least, stand a better chance in a 40˚C machine wash. executed for the royal courts.
A kaleidoscopic pattern of stunning mirrored embroidery
Today, Bikaner specialises in embroidery with double stitching, which results in the pat-
CHRISTER FREDRIKSSON
tern appearing on both sides of the cloth. In Shekhawati, the Jat people embroider motifs
of animals and birds on their odhnis and ghaghara (long cotton skirts), while tiny mirrors
are stitched into garments in Jaisalmer. Beautifully embroidered cloth is also produced
for domestic livestock, and ornately bedecked camels are a wonderfully common sight,
especially at the Pushkar camel fair (p209).

CARPETS & WEAVING

Carpet weaving took off in the 16th century under the patronage of the great Mughal
emperor Akbar, who commissioned the establishment of various carpet-weaving factories,
including one in Jaipur. In the 19th century Maharaja Ram Singh II of Jaipur established
a carpet factory at the Jaipur jail, and soon other jails introduced carpet-making units.
Some of the most beautiful dhurries (flat-woven rugs) were produced by prisoners, and
Bikaner jail is still well known for the excellence of its dhurries. Recent government training
initiatives have seen the revival of this craft, and fine-quality carpets are once again being
produced across Rajasthan.
60 R A J A S T HA N I A R T S & C R A F T S 61

THIS IMAGE
NOT AVAILABLE
IN PICK & MIX

POTTERY
Of all the arts of Rajasthan, pottery has the longest lineage, with fragments recovered in
Kalibangan dating from the Harappan era (around 3000 BC). Before the beginning of the
1st millennium, potters in the environs of present-day Bikaner were already decorating red
pottery with black designs.
Today, different regions of Rajasthan produce different types of pottery, and most villages
in Rajasthan have their own resident potter. He not only produces domestic vessels, but also
clay images of the deities for ceremonial purposes. The most famous of Rajasthan’s pottery
is the blue pottery of Jaipur. The blue-glazed work was first evident on Mughal palace
and cenotaph tiling, and later applied to pottery. Though, over the centuries, the tradition
declined, it was revived in Jaipur in the mid-19th century, and an especially wide range of
blue pottery is still available here (p173).

WOODWORK
Despite the paucity of wood in most parts of Rajasthan, the tradition of woodcarving dates
back many centuries. Unfortunately, few medieval pieces have survived – if Rajasthan’s arid
climate didn’t get them, the termites or the antique touts generally did.
Shekhawati was an important centre for woodcarving, and here you can still see the
woodcarvers’ talents in fantastically wrought doors, door and window frames, and in pidas –
low folding chairs featuring decorative carving. On a smaller scale, Bassi (p235) is known
for the production of wooden puppets and toys, and bright kavads – wonderful little port-
able shrines used by storytellers to relate tales of the gods. You can buy these from around
Rs 100, as well as brilliantly painted tiny Hindu gods, for about Rs 20 apiece, which make
great pocket-sized presents.
 64 lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Staples & Specialities 65

corn or dhal. Flaky paratha is a soft, circular bread, deliciously substantial

Food & Drink and mildly elastic, which makes for a scrumptious early morning snack,
and is often jazzed up with a small bowl of pickle and a stuffing of paneer
(unfermented cheese), aloo (potato), or grated vegetables. Naan bread,
Wherever you go in this region of India, you’ll never be more than a step or made with white flour, is distinguished from roti by being much larger,
two away from something tempting and delicious. From the sweet, deca- thicker and doughier, cooked along the walls of a tandoor (oven) rather
dent deep-fry of a Jaipur street-food stall, to the bliss of a hot cardamom- than on a tawa. Laced with garlic and lashings of butter, and filled with
scented chai (tea) on a freezing Delhi January morning, to the opulence paneer, aloo, or coconut and raisins, naan is difficult to resist.
of a centuries-old Mughal or Rajput regal recipe, food is all around you,
making it almost impossible to ever go hungry. Moreover, food is never just
food here. It’s intrinsically caught up in identity, ritual and tradition. Food
Rice
marks celebrations and festivals, honours guests, and accompanies births, Rice is just as important in this region of India as in any other, and makes
marriages and deaths. a nice change when you’ve had your fill of a dozen different kinds of
Rajasthan’s cuisine has developed in response to its harsh climate. Fresh roti. Aside from the plain long-grain white variety, you’ll find pilau (also
fruit and vegetables are rare commodities in desert zones, but these parts known as pilaf), a tasty, buttery rice dish, whose Rajasthani incarnations
of the state overcome the land’s shortcomings by serving up an amazing frequently include cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, and a handful or two
and creative variety of regional dishes, utilising cereals, pulses, spices, milk of almonds and pistachios. Of all the varieties of rice you’ll encounter,
products and unusual desert fruits in myriad ways. In these arid regions, though, simple steamed basmati rice – slender and delicate – is generally
water was traditionally so scarce and precious that milk was used as an considered the cream of India’s crop, its name stemming from the Hindi
alternative in cooking. In more fertile eastern areas, by contrast, food has phrase for ‘queen of fragrance’.
always been prepared in a more conventional manner. Local cuisines have
also been influenced by the area’s martial history, with dishes having been Dhal & Cereals
developed that could last several days, be eaten on the move, and didn’t India unites in its love for dhal (lentils or pulses), with around 60 different
require heating up before serving them. pulses slipping daily onto plates across the nation. In Rajasthan, the dhal of
Rajasthan, Delhi and Agra’s regal feasts, meanwhile, are the stuff of legend. choice is urad, lentils boiled in water then cooked with garam (hot) masala
Delhi’s princely Mughlai cuisine is traditionally rich and heavy, with plenty (mixed spices), red chillies, cumin seeds, salt, oil and fresh coriander to
of butter, almonds, raisins and other expensive treats, often still cooked up make a spicy, fragrant broth.
the traditional way on brass pots over smoky wood fires. Rajasthan’s ruling The state’s most popular and remarkable dhal-based dish is dhal-bati-
warrior class cooked up similar dishes, also heavy on the meat and cream. choorma, which mixes dhal with bati, buttery hard-baked balls of whole-
Modern Delhi, while not quite living up to these regal standards, ranks as one meal flour, and choorma, sweet fried wholemeal-flour balls mixed with
There’s really no such of the best restaurant destinations in the country. It has scores of establish- sugar and nuts.
thing, in India, as ments serving up everything from buttery kebabs to opulent international Frequently, instead of wheat flour, besan, or gram flour (made from For easy Rajasthani reci-
a ‘curry’. The term fusion cuisine, with enough choice to keep you eating at a different hotspot – ground chickpeas), and sometimes lentil flour, is used as a Rajasthani pes - along with Mughlai,
is thought to be an cheap and cheerful or chic and complex – every day for several years. staple. Gram-flour dumplings known as gatta are a delicious dish usually Gujarati and gorgeous
anglicisation of the Tamil cooked in a yogurt or masala sauce, while you might come across mangodi, breakfast recipes - search
word kari (black pepper), STAPLES & SPECIALITIES lentil-flour dumplings, served in an onion or potato gravy. A speciality the extensive archive at
coined by bewildered Bread of Jodhpur is kabuli Jodhpuri, a dish made with meat, vegetables such as www.indianfoodforever
Brits for any dish that A meal is not complete in India unless it comes with a bountiful supply of cauliflower, cabbage and peas, and yet more fried gram-flour balls. Govind .com
included spices. roti, little round circles of unleavened bread (also known as chapati), made gatta offers a sweet alternative: lentil paste with dried fruit and nuts all
with fine wholemeal flour and cooked on a tawa (hotplate). In Rajasthan rolled into a sausage shape, then sliced and deep-fried. Pakora (fritters),
you’ll also find sogra, a thick, heavy chapati made from millet; makki ki sev (savoury nibbles) and other salted snacks generally known as farsan
roti, a fat cornmeal chapati; and dhokla, yummy balls of steamed maize are all equally derived from chickpea gram, as is gate ki sabzi (or besan
flour cooked with coriander, spinach and mint, and eaten with chutney. gate), spiced besan dough rolled into snakes, steamed and cooked in spicy
Yet another kind of roti is a pastry-like purat roti, made by repeatedly gravy to create a delicious, if rather weighty, result.
coating the dough in oil, then folding it to produce a light and fluffy result,
from which you pull delicious bready strips to dip in sauce. Cheelre, mean- Meat
while, is a chapati made with gram (legume) powder paste, while bhakri is While Rajasthan’s Brahmins and traders traditionally stuck firmly to a
a thick roti made from barley, millet or corn, eaten with pounded garlic, vegetarian diet, the Rajputs have a far more carnivorous history. Goat
red chilli and raw onions by working-class Rajasthanis, and said to prevent (known as ‘mutton’ since the days of the British Raj), lamb and chicken are
sunstroke. It’s probably best not to put too much trust in this theory, or to the mainstays; religious taboos make beef forbidden to Hindus, and pork
munch on a pungent stack of bhakri without your loved-one joining in. to Muslims.
Alongside the world of roti come puris, parathas and naans. A puri is a In the deserts of Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Bikaner, meats are cooked with-
delicious North Indian snack of deep-fried wholemeal dough that puffs up out the addition of precious water, instead using milk, curd, buttermilk and
like a soft, crispy balloon, and should be eaten finger-scaldingly fresh from plenty of ghee. Cooked this way, dishes keep for days without refrigeration,
the fryer. Kachori is a similar thing, but here the dough is pepped up with a practical advantage considering the searing heat of the desert. Murg ko
 66 FOOD & DRINK •• Staples & Specialities lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Staples & Specialities 67

khaato (chicken cooked in a curd gravy), achar murg (pickled chicken),

kacher maas (dry lamb cooked in spices), lal maas (a rich red dish, usually EATING INDIAN-STYLE
made from mutton) and soor santh ro sohito (pork with millet dumplings) Most Indians eat with their right hand, using the tips of the fingers. Never eat with your left
are all classic Rajasthani-desert dishes. hand, which is reserved for unsavoury actions, such as toilet duties. The three-point plan to
Maas ka sule, a Rajput favourite, is a dry dish that can be made from eating like a local goes as follows:
partridge, wild boar, chicken, mutton or fish. Chunks of meat are marinated
„ First, before a meal in any home, wash your hands thoroughly.
in a paste of turmeric powder, coriander powder, ginger and garlic paste,
salt, red-chilli powder, mustard oil and yogurt. The chunks are cooked on „ Next, mix your food with your fingers until it’s thick and sticky. If you’re having dhal and
skewers in a tandoor, then glazed with melted butter and a tangy masala sabzi, mix only the dhal into your rice and take the sabzi in small scoops with each mouthful.
spice mix. Mughlai meat dishes, meanwhile, include rich korma and rogan If you’re eating fish or meat curry, mix only the gravy into your rice and take the flesh off the
josh, the former mild, the latter cooked with tomatoes and saffron, and both bones from the side of your plate.
generously spiked with thick, creamy curd, equally popular today in their „ Finally, scoop up lumps of the mix and, with your knuckles facing the dish, use your thumb to
vegetarian incarnations. shovel the food into your mouth. If you get messy in the process, discreetly wipe your hand
on your bread, then consume the evidence.
Fruit & Vegetables
Rajasthan’s delicious vegetable (sabji) dishes have to be admired for their
inventiveness under frequently hostile growing conditions. Dishes you might especially lemons, limes and mangos – fashioned into a chutney or pickle,
come across include papad ki sabzi, a simple pappadam made with vegetables flavouring kulfi (ice cream) or other sweet treats.
and masala (a mixture of spices), and aloo mangori, ground lentil paste dried
Gorge yourself by reading in the sun then added with potato to a curry. Once rolled by hand, the paste Pickles, Chutneys & Relishes
about the extravagant is now often forced through a machine in a similar way to making macaroni. You’re in a pickle without a pickle, or achar: no Indian meal is complete
royal recipes of Rajasthan A common vegetarian snack whilst on the move is aloo samosa, triangular without one, and, if possible, a couple of chatnis (chutneys) and relishes
in Royal Indian Cookery pastry cones stuffed with spicy potato, while another scrumptious local snack on the side. A relish can be anything from a roughly chopped onion to a
by Manju Shivraj Singh, is mirch bada, a large chilli coated in a thick layer of deep-fried potato and delicately crafted fusion of fruit, nuts and spices. The best known is raita
the niece of the late wheatgerm, a Jodhpur speciality. (mildly spiced yogurt or curd often containing cucumber, tomato or pine-
Maharaja Bhawani Singh There are a few vegetables specific to the deserts of Rajasthan. These apple – served chilled as a side dish), which makes a delicious and refreshing
of Jaipur. include mogri, a type of desert bean, which is made into mogri mangori, counter to spicy meals. In Rajasthan it may be bathua raita, made with a
(similar to the aloo mangori described above) or into a sweeter version handful of bathua (a spinach-like winter vegetable, also known as Pigweed)
called methi mangori - methi being the leaf of a green desert vegetable. leaves, which are boiled, rinsed and then mixed with the yogurt.
Another use for these methi leaves is in dana methi, where they are boiled Other regional variations include goonde achar, goonde being a green ‘unmeltable
with dana (small pea-shaped vegetables) and mixed with sugar, masala fruit that is then boiled and mixed with mustard oil and masala. Kair achar paneer is a
and dried fruit. is a pickle with desert fruit as its base, while lahsun achar is an onion pickle.
With developments in infrastructure, more vegetable dishes are now Lal mirch is a garlic-stuffed red chilli and kamrak ka achar a pickle made godsend for
available in Rajasthan than during its barren, warrior-filled past. Heads of from kamrak, a type of desert vegetable with a pungent, sour taste. The best the vegetar-
cauliflower are usually cooked dry on their own, with potatoes to make aloo known, and most widely served, however, are made of raw mango, mixed ian majority’
gobi, or with other vegetables such as carrots and beans. Fresh green peas with spices and mustard oil, with lime, shredded ginger, or with tiny whole
turn up stir-fried with other vegetables in pilaus and biryanis, in samosas shallots, jazzing up even the dullest dhal or rice dish.
along with potato, and in one of North India’s signature dishes, mattar
paneer (peas and fresh, firm white cheese). Brinjal (eggplant or aubergine), Dairy
bhindi (okra or ladies’ finger) and saag (a generic term for leafy greens) are Milk and milk products make a staggering contribution to Indian cuisine
all popular choices. (hence the sanctity of the cow), and in Rajasthan they’re even more import-
The desert bears a handful of fruits, too. Kair is a small, round variety, ant: dahi (curd) is served with most meals and is handy for countering heat
For a taste of the desert, which grows on a prickly shrub and is a favourite of camels as well as local in terms of both temperature and spiciness of dishes; firm, unmeltable paneer
try out a few dishes from people, to whom it is usually served with mango pickle; kachri is a type cheese is a godsend for the vegetarian majority and is used in apparently
the recipe collection, of desert fruit frequently made into chutney. If you order something that endless permutations; popular lassi (yogurt and iced-water drink) is just
Classic Cooking of Rajas- arrives looking like a plate of dry sticks, these are sangri (dried wild desert one in a host of nourishing sweet or savoury drinks, often with fruit such
than by Kaira Jiggs and beans). The seeds and beans are soaked overnight in water, boiled, and then as banana or mango added for an extra zing; ghee (clarified butter) is the
Raminder Malhotra. fried in oil with masala, dried dates, red chillies, turmeric powder, shredded traditional and pure cooking medium (although not used nearly as much
dried mango, salt, coriander and cumin seeds – and despite their dry-stick in India as in Indian restaurants abroad); and the best sweets are all made
appearance are amazingly tender. with plenty of condensed, sweetened milk or cream.
Fresh fruit is sold in mountains on street stalls at every turn: you’ll find
oranges (which are yellow-green), tangerines, custard apples, grapes, pink Sweets & Desserts
and white grapefruits, kumquats and sweet limes. Bananas are piled high, Indians have a heady range of tooth-jarringly sweet mithai (sweets), made
too, with many distinct varieties, rich in individual flavour and usually far from manifold concoctions of sugar, milk, ghee, nuts, and yet more sugar.
tastier and juicier than the kind you’ll get back home. You’ll also find fruit – Rajasthani varieties include badam ki barfi, a type of fudge made from sugar,
 68 FOOD & DRINK •• Drinks lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Drinks 69

powdered milk, almonds and ghee, and chakki, a barfi (milk-based fudge) hang-out for travellers and wealthier locals alike, though part of their appeal
made from gram flour, sugar and milk. Gram flour, sugar, cardamom, ghee (beyond the paninis and carrot cake) might be the soothing jazz, chilly air-
and dried fruits combined make churma, while ladoo comes in ball-form, conditioning and clean toilets, as much as the quality of the ground beans.
made from gram or wheat flour with dried fruit and sugar added. At bus and train stations, though, coffee is still pretty much indistinguish-
Ghewar, another Rajasthani favourite for which Jaipur is famous, is a able from chai: it’s the same combination of water, boiled milk and sugar, but
paste based on urad (a mung-bean type pulse) that’s crushed, deep-fried, and with just a dash of instant-coffee powder to allow connoisseurs to note the
dipped in sugar syrup flavoured with cardamom, cinnamon and cloves. It’s difference. That said, it offers the same restorative powers as chai, for just a
served hot, topped with a thick layer of unsweetened cream and garnished fraction of the price tag of a frothy bucket-sized coffee-chain creation.
with rose petals.
Kheer is perhaps India’s favourite dessert. It’s a delectable, fragrant rice OTHER DRINKS
pudding with a light, delicate flavour of cardamom, saffron, pistachios, Aside from the usual gamut of Pepsis and 7Ups, India has a few of its own
flaked almonds, cashews or dried fruit. Gulab jamun comes next: spongy sugary bottled concoctions: the vaguely lemonish Limca and vivid-orange
deep-fried balls of milk dough soaked in rose-flavoured syrup, satisfyingly Mirinda. Masala soda is the quintessential Indian soft drink, though may
treacle pudding–like and wonderful when served with chopped nuts or a rich be an acquired taste to the newcomer. Available at many drinks stalls, it’s a
kulfi ice cream. Kulfi is addictive once experienced; delicious, substantially freshly opened bottle of soda pepped-up with lime, spices, salt and sugar.
firm-textured, made with reduced milk and flavoured with nuts, fruits and Simple, freshly squeezed orange juice is also widely available – as are nu- ‘Masala soda
‘A glass of berries, and especially tasty in its pale-green pistachio incarnation. merous sugar-enhanced carton versions – though the most popular street is the quin-
steaming Alongside these more sophisticated offerings are the sweets of the region’s juices are made from sweet lemon and sugar cane, pressed in front of you tessential
sweet, milky, food stalls, which are weighed down with delights such as jalebis (orange- by a mechanised wheel complete with jingling bells.
coloured whirls of fried batter dipped in syrup) which, served hot, melt Less widespread but also popular, Jal jeera is one of the most therapeutic Indian soft
frothy chai is in the mouth and hang heavy on the conscience. Taste these at your peril, and refreshing indigenous drinks. It’s made with lime juice, cumin, mint and drink’
the perfect since anyone with the slightest sweet tooth will inevitably find themselves rock salt and is sold in large earthenware pots by street vendors as well as in
antidote to drawn back for more. restaurants. Falooda is another nice option, a sweet rose-flavoured Muslim
speciality made with milk, cream, nuts and strands of vermicelli.
the heat’ Thalis By far the most popular of all Indian cold drinks, however, is a refreshing
Thalis are the traditional cheap and filling meals made up of a combination sweet or salty lassi (yogurt drink). Jodhpur is famous for its sweet makhania
of vegetable (or sometimes nonveg) curried dishes, served with relishes, lassis, delicious thick, creamy lassis flavoured with saffron that are hearty
pappadams, yogurt, puris and rice. The term ‘thali’ also covers the charac- enough to stand in for a meal. Chach and kairi chach are other Rajasthani
teristic school-dinner type metal tray-plate on which the meal is frequently specialities – the former is a thin, salted lassi and the latter is unripe mango
served. If you’re strapped for cash, thalis are a saviour, especially at small, juice with water and salt added, widely available in summer and allegedly
local hole-in-the-wall restaurants and at railway-station dining halls, since a good remedy for sunstroke. There are also the infamous bhang lassis,
they’re far heavier on the stomach than the wallet. In southern Rajasthan, to be attempted with caution: a mixture of yogurt and bhang, a heady
many restaurants serve more sophisticated, sweet and lightly spiced Gujarati marijuana derivative.
thalis, brought over from the adjoining state of Gujarat – one of the most For information on water, see Drinking Water, p391.
famous and most delicious ways to sample a taste of Gujarati cuisine.
Alcoholic Drinks
DRINKS There’s a plethora of local and national brands of beer, but little to tell them
Nonalcoholic Drinks apart as most are straightforward pilsners containing around 5% alcohol.
TEA & COFFEE Most travellers champion Kingfisher; Royal Challenge, Dansberg, Golden
India runs on chai (tea). It’s a unique and addictive brew, more milk than Eagle, London Pilsner and Sandpiper, imbibed ice-cold, are all equally re-
water, stewed for a long time and frequently sugary enough to give you a freshing. Local whiskies Peter Scott, Antiquity and Solan No 1 are all palatable
much-needed energy boost. It’s usually masala chai (mixed tea), with a few if drunk with sufficient mixers.
spices added, such as ginger and cardamom pods, to give it a delicious, exotic Though the Indian wine industry is still in its infancy, there are signs
twist. A glass of steaming sweet, milky, frothy chai is the perfect antidote that Indian wines are slowly being accepted into local and international
to the heat and stress of Indian travel; the disembodied voice droning ‘chai, markets. Currently, one of the best-known Indian wine producers is Sula
chai garam’ (hot tea) at any dusty, sticky station will fast become one of the Wines, which creates a whole slew of different tastes – from Zinfandel and
most familiar and welcome sounds of your trip. Sauvignon Blanc, to a Chenin-Blanc dessert wine – with grapes grown in
If you never quite get the hang of chai but still crave a simple cuppa, many northern Maharashtra state. Meanwhile, Grover Vineyards, established in
cafés and restaurants will serve you up ‘tray tea’ or ‘English tea’, where the 1988 near Bangalore, also has a solid international reputation, with a smaller
teabag, milk, hot water and sugar are each served separately. range of wines than Sula, including a nice Sauvignon Blanc and a tasty pink
Whilst coffee used to be fairly unusual in the region, nowadays Delhi, Shiraz. Both are worth seeking out whilst in India, rather than opting for a
along with parts of Rajasthan, has caught up with the double-mocha-latte glass of something imported and inevitably overpriced.
ways of the West, and good – or complicated – coffee can generally be had At the other end of the scale, arak is what the poor drink to get blotto,
at hotels, bars, traveller-orientated cafés, and at international coffee chains poignantly called asha (hope) in the north of India. It’s clear, distilled rice
such as Costa and Barista. Coffee shops have increasingly become a popular liquor, the effects of which creep up on you quickly and without warning.
 70 FOOD & DRINK •• Celebrations lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s 71

Only ever drink this from a bottle produced in a government-controlled wealthy suburbs, where some very stylish bars cater to the city’s well-heeled
distillery. Never, ever drink it otherwise – hundreds of people die or are after-work crowds. In Rajasthan, too, you won’t find it too difficult to locate
blinded every year in India as a result of drinking arak produced in illicit a cool glass of beer, except in Pushkar, which is officially a ‘dry’ town. ‘Dry’
stills. Mahansar in Shekhawati (p289) produces a kind of ‘wine’ known as days, too, may prevent you from quenching that thirst: Rajasthan has three
daru that tastes rather like Greek ouzo – it’s homemade so, as with arak, per year (Republic Day, January 26; Independence Day, August 15; Gandhi
proceed with caution. Jayanti, October 2), while Delhi officially has 21.
Due to the expense of obtaining a liquor licence, many restaurants in
Learn more about
CELEBRATIONS Rajasthan don’t list alcohol on the menu. Some won’t mind if you bring
Although statewide and national festivals are religiously resonant, they are your own; others may pop out to buy one for you (at an inflated price) whilst
Sula Wines and their For the full foodie experi-
also occasions for a huge nosh-up, each festival proffering its own special there are also those who will serve it to you despite their lack of licence – but
environmentally-friendly ence whilst in Delhi, pick
dishes. Sweets are considered the most luxurious of foods: karanjis, crescent- surreptitiously, and in a teapot.
sustainable agriculture up the Times of India’s
shaped flour parcels stuffed with sweet khoya (milk solids) and nuts, are
programmes at their Times Food Guide (Rs 100)
synonymous with Holi, the most boisterous Hindu festival, which wouldn’t Quick Eats
website, www.sulawines which lists 2500 of Delhi’s
be the same without its fair share of malpuas (wheat pancakes dipped in STREET & PLATFORM FOOD
.com. top eating destinations.
syrup), barfi fudges and pedas (multicoloured pieces of khoya and sugar). Whatever the time of day, people on the street are boiling, frying, roasting,
Diwali, the festival of lights, is the most widely celebrated national festival, peeling, juicing, simmering, mixing or baking some sort of food or beverage
each area producing specific Diwali sweets which are offered not only to to tempt passers-by. Small operations usually have one special dish which
revellers, but also to the gods themselves. they serve up all day, while other, slightly more sophisticated vendors offer
Ramadan is the Muslim month of fasting, when Muslims abstain from different dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The fare varies as you venture
eating, smoking or drinking even water during daylight, replenishing them- between neighbourhoods, towns and regions; it can be as simple as puffed
selves only before daybreak and at night. Each day’s fast is broken by a huge rice or peanuts roasted in hot sand, as incongruous as a fried-egg sandwich
iftar (sunset fast-breaking) meal and, during the Eid al-Fitr festival, a feast of with ketchup, or as complex as the riot of different flavours known as chaat
heavy curries, nonvegetarian biryanis and squidgy, sumptuous sweets. (any snack foods seasoned with chaat masala).
Deep-fried treats are really where it’s at on stations and streets, and you’ll
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK find samosas (deep-fried pyramid-shaped pastries filled with spiced vege-
Eating tables and sometimes meat), aloo tikka (mashed potato patties) and bhaji
Throughout Rajasthan, Delhi and Agra are multitudes of small, cheap and (vegetable fritter fried in besan batter) in varying degrees of spiciness, along
locally aimed restaurants, frequently known as ‘hotels’. Most midrange with puris, kachoris, and a whole host of other hot and battered delights. In
restaurants serve one of two basic genres; South Indian (which means the most Muslim areas, you’ll also find kebabs, doused in smooth curds and
Even deities have their
sweeter, lighter vegetarian cuisine of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka) and North wrapped in warm bread, both filling and warming in equal measure.
favourite dishes. Krishna
Indian (which comprises heavier, more meat-orientated Punjabi/Mughlai
likes milk products,
and Ganesh is rarely
food). Rajasthan is a favourite holiday destination for affluent Gujaratis – VEGETARIANS & VEGANS
from the famously foodie neighbouring state – which means places often India produces some of the best vegetarian food you’ll find anywhere on the
seen without a bowl of
specialise in Gujarati thalis. These include a selection of purely vegetarian, planet, and vegetarians will have absolutely no problem maintaining a varied
modak (sweet rice-flour
subtly flavoured dishes to delight the palate. and exciting diet no matter how long their stay.
dumplings).
Dhabas (snack bars) are oases to the millions of truck drivers, bus passen- Vegetarian food is sometimes divided up in India into ‘veg’ and ‘pure
gers and anyone else who frequents India’s crowded roadways. The rough- veg’, a frequently blurred and confusing distinction. As a general rule of
and-ready but extremely tasty food served in these hospitable shacks has thumb, ‘veg’ usually means the same as it does in the West: without meat,
become a genre on its own, known as ‘dhaba food’. In Rajasthan dhabas fowl or seafood, but possibly containing butter (in India’s case, ghee), dairy
are known as bhojanalyas, from bhojan (food or meal) and alya (place). products, eggs or honey. ‘Pure veg’ often refers to what the West knows as
These simple eateries are great for travellers on a tight budget, but make vegan food: dishes containing no dairy products, eggs or honey. Sometimes,
sure your food comes freshly cooked, and not just reheated: you’ll usually as in the case of Jain or Hare Krishna–run eating establishments, ‘pure veg’
be able to judge quality in a dhaba by how busy its scattering of tables are might also mean no onions, garlic or mushrooms (which some Hare Krishna
or, in tableless versions, the length of the queue outside. believe can have a negative effect on one’s state of consciousness) or even
Delhi, these days, is a different culinary case from much of the rest of the no root vegetables or tubers (since many Jains, according to the principles
country. Packed with expensive restaurants and cafés, it’s a perfect place to of ahimsa, are loathe to damage plants).
splurge, if you’re so-inclined, on stellar Mughlai food, or indeed on pretty Though it’s extremely easy to be vegetarian in India, finding vegan food –
much any world cuisine. But wherever you are in the region, don’t be afraid outside ‘pure veg’ restaurants – can be a bit trickier. Many basic dishes, in-
to experiment in the ‘I’ll have what she’s having’ vein. Eating in Rajasthan cluding dhal, include a small amount of ghee, so ask whether a dish is ‘pure
is as much an adventure as the journey itself, and if you play it safe you may veg’, even in a vegetarian restaurant, before ordering.
miss out on rich and memorable culinary experiences.
EATING WITH KIDS
Drinking In such a family-centred society, children are welcomed everywhere and
You’ll find no end of places to swig on a Kingfisher or sip on an expertly foreign children especially fêted. You’ll never feel out of place, even in the
poured Manhattan in Delhi, particularly around Connaught Place and in the swankiest of New Delhi restaurants, even if basics such as highchairs and
 72 FOOD & DRINK •• Habits & Customs lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Cooking Courses 73

the country’s Hindus, Muslims and Buddhists adhere to more culinary rules
STREET FOOD DOS & DON’TS than its Sikhs, Christians and Parsis.
There are obvious risks involved in eating on India’s streets, but with a little common sense you’re Most Hindus avoid foods that are thought to inhibit physical and spiritual
bound to discover culinary treasures: remember that fortune favours the brave. development. The taboo on eating beef is the most rigid restriction, yet some –
especially middle-class Hindus – eat it in restaurants and in non-Hindu
„ Stick to street stalls that seem well-frequented, particularly by local families with children.
homes. Some foods, such as dairy products, are considered innately pure and
„ Check how and where utensils are cleaned, and whether food is covered when not on the are eaten to cleanse the body, mind and spirit. Ayurveda, the ancient science
flame. If the stall is very grimy or there are too many buzzing flies, beat a hasty retreat. of life, health and longevity, also heavily influences food customs.
„ Avoid, in general, eating meat from street stalls, since food-poisoning risks are increased. Muslims have had a great influence on Indian food, and are responsible
for most Indian meat dishes. Pork and alcohol are forbidden, and stimulants
„ Choose sweet lemon, orange and sugar-cane drinks that are pressed in front of you, rather
such as coffee and tea are avoided by the most devout. Halal is the term for
than dispensed from a jug.
all permitted foods, and haram for those prohibited.
„ Don’t be tempted by pre-sliced fruit, which keeps its luscious veneer with a regular dousing Buddhists subscribe to the concept of ahimsa (the philosophy of non-
of local tap water. violence), and most Indian Buddhists are largely vegetarian, though some
eat fish and others abstain only from beef. Jainism’s central tenet is ultra-
vegetarianism, and rigid restrictions are in place to avoid even potential
child-sized portions are a little lacking. For little ones with tamer palates, the
injury to any living creature – many Jains abstain from eating vegetables that
cook at a simple eatery will usually be pleased to whip up a simple, spice-free
grow underground; some, because of the potential to harm insects during
dhal, roti and rice combination. At more sophisticated dining joints, there
cultivation, whilst others prefer to avoid harm to the plant itself.
will generally be a choice of child-friendly dishes, both Indian and Western
in orientation.
For vegetarian children, lassis and paneer in all its forms, are a great way
COOKING COURSES
In Udaipur several places run cookery lessons (see p249), and you can also learn
to make sure they are getting an adequate dose of calcium. Fruit, bought
in Mt Abu at the Shri Ganesh Hotel (see p268). In Jhunjhunu in Shekhawati,
from street stalls and peeled and washed in bottled water, is great for keep-
To find out more about Hotel Jamuna Resort (see p287) runs various courses, where lessons are
ing everyone’s vitamin C levels high, and bananas are particularly good for
veganism in India, take a coupled with field visits to different foodie families and establishments.
troubled tummies. Every small kiosk sells snacks (try Parle G biscuits for
look at www.indian
their chai-dunkable, malted-milk consistency) for on-the-go treats, while
vegan.com. For recipe
adventurous children will enjoy sampling the sweets and deep-fried delica-
EAT YOUR WORDS
ideas, pick up a copy of
cies of street stalls.
Useful Phrases
Spicy Vegan by Sudha Do you accept credit cards?
Breakfasts are a good time to stock up for the day ahead, where pancakes
Raina. kyaa aap kredit kaard lete/letee haing? (m/f )
filled with sliced banana and honey or Nutella will soon become a firm
What would you recommend?
favourite on every travelling-child’s breakfast agenda. More adventurous
aap ke kyaal meng kyaa achchaa hogaa?
children, meanwhile, will love the messy, hands-on experience of dipping
I’m (a) vegetarian.
idlis and parathas in sambar (dhal with vegetables) and curd, along with the
maing hoong shaakaahaaree
vast, floppy dosas of the Indian breakfast table.
For more on travelling with children, see p354.
I’d like the … , please.
muje … chaahiye
HABITS & CUSTOMS Please bring a/the ….
Three main meals daily is the norm in India, with as many tiffin (snacks) … laaiye
as can be consumed without sabotaging the appetite. Breakfast is a light bill bil
meal, usually of paratha and chai – though for the modern Delhi commuter fork kaangtaa
masses, it might just as likely be a croissant and cappuccino-to-go. Lunch is glass glaas
substantial, often a local version of a thali, or a slew of rice and curry dishes glass of wine sharaab kee kaa glaas
shared with friends or family, from the local eating joint. knife chaakoo
Few are able to wait until dinner before eating again, so a substantial tiffin menu menyoo
is tucked into at around 5pm. Indians eat their evening meal relatively late, mineral water minral vaatar
so restaurants are often deserted before 9pm. Dinner will usually have fewer plate plet
dishes than a thali lunch, but bigger portions. Whatever the meal time, dishes spoon chammach
are rarely served in courses; rather they’re served hot and all-together. In
Delhi you’ll see the masses tucking into cakes, ice creams or street-stall sweets I don’t eat …
until late in the evening, long after dinner is done and digested. maing … naheeng kaataa/kaatee (m/f )
Could you prepare a meal without…?
Food & Religion kyaa aap … ke binaa kaanaa taiyaar kar sakte/saktee haing? (m/f )
Regardless of caste or creed, Indians share the belief that food is just as beef gaay ke gosht
important for fine-tuning the spirit as it is for sustaining the body, though fish machlee
74 FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words 75

meat stock gosht ke staak kulfi – flavoured (often with pistachio) ice-cream confection
pork suar ke gosht ladoo – sweet ball made with gram flour and semolina; also spelt as ladu
poultry murgee lassi – refreshing yogurt and iced-water drink, served either sweet or salted
red meat (goat) bakree masala – a wide-ranging term referring either to a mixture of spices or a spicy dish
I’m allergic to … masala dosa – South Indian dish; large lentil-flour crepe (dosa) often stuffed with potatoes and
muje … kee elarjee hai vegetables, and served with sambar and coconut chutney
nuts meve mattar paneer – peas and unfermented cheese in gravy
seafood machlee milk badam – invigorating morning drink made with saffron and almonds
shellfish shelfish mithai – Indian sweets
momo – Tibetan fried or steamed dumpling stuffed with vegetables or meat
Food Glossary murg – chicken
achar – pickles and chutneys naan – flat bread cooked in a tandoor oven
aloo – potatoes paan – digestif made of betel nut (also called areca nut), lime paste
aloo tikka – mashed-potato patty, often filled with vegetables or meat and spices, with or without tobacco
appam – South Indian rice pancake pakora – bite-sized piece of vegetable dipped in gram-flour batter and deep-fried
arak – liquor distilled from coconut milk, potatoes or rice palak paneer – unfermented cheese in spinach gravy
baigan – eggplant; also known as brinjal paneer – unfermented cheese
barfi – milk-based fudgelike sweet pani – water
besan – ground chickpea flour paratha – bread made with ghee and cooked on a hotplate
betel – nut of the betel tree; chewed as a stimulant and digestive in paan; also called areca nut pilau – rice cooked in stock and flavoured with spices; also spelt as ‘pilaf’ or ‘pulao’
bhajia – vegetable fritter fried in besan batter, often eaten as street food puri – flat dough that puffs up when deep-fried; also spelt as ‘poori’
bhang lassi – potent blend of lassi and bhang (a derivative of marijuana) raita – mildly spiced yogurt or curd, often containing shredded or diced cucumber, carrot, tomato
bhelpuri – thin fried rounds of dough with rice, lentils, lemon juice, onions, herbs and chutney or pineapple; served chilled as a side dish
bhindi – okra (ladies’ fingers) rasam – South Indian dish; thin tamarind-flavoured vegetable broth
biryani – rich, fragrant rice dish with meat or vegetables rasgulla – sweet little balls of cream cheese flavoured with rose-water
bonda – mashed-potato patty rogan josh – spicy red curry, traditionally made with meat, cooked with saffron
brinjal – eggplant/aubergine roti – wheat-flour bread cooked on the tawa (hotplate)
butter chicken – a Delhi favourite: tandoori chicken in a rich butter and tomato sauce sabji – any vegetable curry, also known as sabzi
chaat – any small, savoury snack saag – leafy greens, usually spinach or fenugreek
chai – sweet, spiced tea sambar – South Indian dish; thin, soupy dhal with cubed vegetables often served with dosas or idlis
chana – chickpeas samosa – deep-fried pastry triangles filled with spiced vegetables and/or meat
chapati – unleavened Indian bread, also known as roti sonf – aniseed seeds; used as a digestive – usually comes with the bill after a meal and also
chatni – chutney known as paan
cheiku – small brown fruit that looks like a potato, but is sweet thali – ‘all-in-one’ meal served on a stainless-steel or silver plate
dahi – curd or yogurt thukpa – thick Tibetan noodle soup
dhal – curried lentil dish; a staple food throughout India tiffin – snack; also refers to the stacked meal container, often made of stainless steel
dhal makhani – black lentils and red kidney beans with cream and butter tikka – spiced, marinated, chargrilled chunks of chicken, paneer, lamb or fish
dhansak – Parsi dish; meat, usually chicken, with curried lentils and rice
dosa – South Indian breakfast dish: a paper-thin lentil-flour pancake
falooda – rose-flavoured drink made with milk, cream, nuts and vermicelli
faluda – long chickpea-flour noodles
farsan – savoury nibbles
ghee – clarified butter
gram – legumes
gulab jamun – deep-fried balls of dough soaked in rose-flavoured syrup
halwa – soft sweetmeat made with vegetables, cereals, lentils, nuts and fruit
idli – South Indian spongy, round savoury rice cake, served for breakfast
jaggery – hard, brown unrefined sugarlike sweetener made from palm sap
jalebi – deep-fried coils of sweet batter dipped in sugar syrup
keema – minced meat
kheer – rice pudding
khichdi – heavy rice dish sometimes made with lentils, potatoes and peanuts
kofta – minced balls of meat or vegetables in a curry sauce
korma – rich, mild meat or vegetable dish, cooked with curd
kulcha – charcoal-baked bread
 76 lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 77

Animals
Environment Arid-zone mammals have adapted to the lack of water in various resourceful
ways. For example, some top up their fluids with insects that are composed
of between 65% and 80% water, and water-bearing plants, while others retain
THE LAND water for longer periods. Faced with the incredible heat, many creatures
The rugged Aravalli Range splits Rajasthan like a bony spine, running from burrow in the sand or venture out only at night – tricks that travellers in the
the northeast to the southwest. These irregular mountains – at times lush and hot season may feel like emulating.
forested, at others bare and muscular – form a boundary between the Thar
Desert to the west and the relatively lusher vegetation to the east. With an ANTELOPES & GAZELLES
Elephas maximus –
average height of 600m, in places the range soars to over 1050m; the highest Blackbuck antelopes, with their long spiralling horns, are most common
A Portrait of the Indian
point, Guru Shikhar (1722m), is near Mt Abu. It’s thought to be the oldest around Jodhpur, where they are protected by local Bishnoi tribes (see p315).
Elephant by Stephen
mountain range in the world. A second hilly spur, the Vindhya Range, splays Bishnoi conservation has also helped the chinkaras (Indian gazelles). These
Alter, reveals the princely
around the southernmost regions of Rajasthan. delicate little creatures (around 1m tall) are very fast and agile and found
pachyderm in all its
The state’s sole perennial river is the wide, life-giving swell of the Chambal. in small herds.
wild grandeur as well as
Rising in Madhya Pradesh from the northern slopes of the Vindhyas, the Also notable and relatively common in the national parks is the extraordi-
describing its influence
river enters Rajasthan at Chaurasigarh and forms part of Rajasthan’s eastern nary nilgai, which is the largest of the antelope family – only the males attain
in art, warfare and
border with Madhya Pradesh. the blue colour. It’s a large, muscular animal whose front legs are longer than
ceremony.
The south is drained by the Mahi and Sabarmati Rivers; the Luni, which its rear legs, giving it an ungainly stance.
rises about 7km north of Ajmer in the Aravalli, is the only river in western
Rajasthan. Seasonal and comparatively shallow, the Luni sometimes billows BIG CATS
out to over 2km wide. Tigers were once found along the length of the Aravallis. However, royal
The arid region in the west of the state is known as Marusthali or Marwar hunting parties, poachers and habitat destruction have decimated the pop-
(the Land of Death), which gives some idea of the terrain. Sprawling from ulation, and tigers are now only found in Ranthambhore National Park.
the Aravallis in the east to the Sulaiman Kirthar Range in the west is the Thar In 2008 there were plans to relocate the last four villages remaining in
Desert, which covers almost three-quarters of the state. It’s a barren, dry, Sariska Tiger Reserve, and to then reintroduce tigers from Ranthambhore.
inhospitable expanse – the eastern extension of the great Saharo-Tharian The last of Sariska’s original tigers were killed by poachers in 2004–05;
Desert – forming 61% of the area covered by desert in India. (see p199).
Low, rugged, barren slopes occasionally punctuate the parched plains. The mainly nocturnal and rarely seen leopard, or panther, inhabits rocky
About 60% of the region is also made up of sand dunes, which are formed declivities in the Aravallis, and parts of the Jaipur and Jodhpur districts.
by the erosion of these low hills and from sand blown from Gujarat’s vast Anecdotal reports suggest an increase in numbers of leopards at Sariska
desert, the Great Rann of Kutch. Tiger Reserve following the demise of the tiger.
It’s hard to believe, but this desolate region was once covered by massive
The US-based Fund for
forests and populated by huge animals. In 1996 two amateur palaeontolo- DOGS
the Tiger, www.fundfor
gists working in the Thar Desert discovered animal fossils, some 300 mil- Jackals are renowned for their unearthly howling, which enables them to
thetiger.com, and Save
lion years old, that included dinosaur fossils. At the Akal Wood Fossil Park find each other and form packs. Once common throughout Rajasthan, they
the Tiger Fund, www
Did you know? Around (p337), near Jaisalmer, you can visit the incredible remains of fossilised trees would lurk around villages, where they scavenged and preyed on livestock.
.savethetigerfund.org are
180 million years ago that are around 180 million years old. Plant fossils from 45 million years Habitat encroachment and hunting (for their skins) have reduced their
non-profit fundraisers
the deserts of Rajasthan ago show that Rajasthan’s metamorphosis into desert is relatively recent – numbers, though they are still a very common sight in Keoladeo Ghana,
who finance initiatives to
were lush forests home to and ongoing. Ranthambhore and Sariska parks.
assist tiger conservation
dinosaurs. It’s hard to make out where the desert ends and becomes semiarid. The The wolf once roamed in large numbers in the desert, but farmers
in India and elsewhere.
semiarid zone nestles between the Aravallis and the Thar Desert, extending hunted it almost to the point of extinction. Wolves have begun to reappear
west from the Aravallis and encompassing the Ghaggar River Plain, parts over recent decades, due to concerted conservation efforts. The sanctuary
of Shekhawati and the Luni River Basin. at Kumbalgarh (p259) is known for its wolves.
Delhi lies on the vast flatlands of the Indo-Gangetic Plain, though the The sandy-coloured desert fox is a subspecies of the red fox and was
northernmost pimples of the Aravallis amount to the Ridge, which lies west once prolific in the Thar Desert. As with wolves, the fox population has
of the city centre. The Yamuna River flows southwards along the eastern shrunk due to human endeavours, but it’s still quite common to spot a
edge of the city. To the south, Agra lies on the banks of the Yamuna, in the single animal flitting across a desert road. Keep your eyes open for them
neighbouring state of Uttar Pradesh. scavenging roadkill on the highway near Jaisalmer.

WILDLIFE RODENTS
For a place apparently so inhospitable, Rajasthan hosts an incredible array Desert gerbils are small, but they’re big trouble: they descend on crops
of animals and birds; the stars are the elusive tigers of Ranthambhore in vast numbers, causing untold damage. In the arid zone an incredible
National Park (p215) and the birds of Keoladeo Ghana National Park 12,000 to 15,000 burrows per hectare have been identified. Each burrow
(p188), although the status of the latter has dramatically declined owing opening shifts 1kg of soil, which is carried by the high-velocity winds,
to lack of water. contributing to soil erosion and dust storms.
 78 E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 79

MONKEYS dry grassland dwellers is the impressive great Indian bustard, which stands
Monkeys seem to be everywhere in Rajasthan. There are two common some 40cm high and can weigh up to 14kg.
types: the red-faced and red-rumped rhesus macaque and the shaggy grey,
black-faced langur, with prominent eyebrows. Both types are keen on hang- ENDANGERED SPECIES
Did you know? When ing around human settlements, where they can get easy pickings. Both will Some of Rajasthan’s wildlife is disappearing due to encroachment on its
the desert gerbil senses steal food from your grasp at temples, but the macaque is probably the more habitat, but poaching is also a serious problem. The Tiger’s Destiny, by
danger, it thumps the aggressive and the one to be particularly wary of. It’s estimated that during the 1990s more than 20 tigers were slaughtered at Valmik Thapar, with
earth with its hind feet; Ranthambhore National Park and the last of the tigers of Sariska Tiger Reserve photographs by Fateh
the entire colony then BEARS were killed in 2005. After the skin is removed, the bones inevitably find their Singh Rathore, is all
flees to the burrows. In forested regions you might be greeted by a sloth bear – a large creature way to China, where they form the basis of ‘tiger wine’, believed to have healing about the besieged
covered in long black hair with a prominent white V on its chest and peculiar properties. The penis is coveted for its alleged aphrodisiac powers. For details tigers of Ranthambhore
muzzle with an overhanging upper lip. That lip helps it feed on ants and on the recent tragedy see The Case of the Missing Tigers, p199. National Park.
termites. Sloth bears feed mostly on vegetation and insects but aren’t averse National parks and sanctuaries are proving to be lucrative hunting grounds
to a bit of carrion. The bears are reasonably common around Mt Abu and for poachers. Frequently, only main roads in parks are patrolled by (often
elsewhere on the western slopes of the Aravalli Range. poorly paid) guards, so poachers can trespass without fear of detection. From
numbers in excess of 40,000 in the early 20th century, wild tigers in India
BIRDS have crashed to fewer than 1500 estimated in 2008. And many of these are
The Aravalli forests harbour orioles, hornbills, kingfishers, swallows, para- in small, isolated and unsustainable populations.
keets, warblers, mynahs, robins, flycatchers, quails, doves, peacocks, barbets, Numbers of the great Indian bustard have also dwindled alarmingly due to The most prominent
bee-eaters, woodpeckers and drongos, among others. Birds of prey include hunting and because the bird’s eggs are trampled by livestock. However, in organisation battling
numerous species of owls (great horned, dusky, brown fishing and collared Rajasthan, where the bird is the emblem of the state, there is no programme tiger poaching in India
scops, and spotted owlets), eagles (spotted and tawny), white-eyed buzzards, for conservation and this has led to calls for a national programme similar is the Wildlife Protection
black-winged kites and shikras. to Project Tiger to protect this majestic bird. Society of India, www
The wetlands of eastern Rajasthan include the internationally renowned Three types of vulture have become endangered over the past few years. .wpsi-india.org.
Keoladeo Ghana National Park. Although in recent years the lack of water Once common, they joined the endangered ranks after the population in
has prevented the famous migratory flocks from returning, it is hoped that south Asia fell by 95%. The cause was exposure to a veterinary drug, which
a new water supply will soon reinvigorate this wetland (p188). Migratory
species include spoonbills, herons, cormorants, storks, open bills, ibis and
egrets. Wintering waterfowl include the common, marbled, falcated and ANIMAL AID SOCIETY
Baikal teal; pintail, gadwall, shoveler, coot, wigeon, bar-headed and greylag Praveen and Poonam met Americans Erika and Jim in 2000. Talking about their distress at seeing
geese; and common and brahminy pochards. Waders include snipe, sand- so many street animals in pain, together they began to realise a dream – to take action and ad-
pipers and plovers. Terrestrial species include the monogamous sarus, which dress the problems of destitute animals. In March 2003 they completed a small hospital in Chota
inhabits the park year-round, and the beautiful demoiselle crane. Other spe- Hawala village, 3km northwest of Udaipur, which now treats around 200 animals per month.
cies resident throughout the year include moorhens, egrets, herons, storks The society’s work includes emergency treatment of stray animals and projects such as spaying
and cormorants. Birds of prey include many types of eagles (greater spotted, street dogs (20 to 40 per week). There are an estimated 10,000 ownerless dogs in the Udaipur
steppe, imperial, Spanish imperial and fishing), vultures (white-backed and district, so this helps keep numbers under control. They also travel to village communities to
scavenger), owls (spotted, dusky horned and mottled wood), marsh harriers, provide animals with treatments such as deworming.
sparrowhawks, kestrels and goshawks. If you’ve noticed donkeys weighed down with mammoth loads, you’ll understand the Animal
Common birds of the grasslands include various species of lark, including Aid Society’s particular concern for these diminutive, overworked, long-suffering creatures. The
the short-toed, crested, sky and crowned finch-lark. Quails, including grey, hospital cares for retired donkeys and runs education programmes to prevent ill-treatment.
rain, common and bush, can also be seen, as can several types of shrike (grey, Another project is the Plastic Bag Education Campaign. Cows let loose on the street to graze
rufous-backed and bay-backed), mynahs, drongos and partridges. Migratory often end up chowing down on indigestible plastic. The plastic sits in the cow’s stomach, caus-
birds include the lesser florican, seen during the monsoon, and the Houbara ing the animal to feel full. This means it will end up starving to death. Street cows who’ve been
bustard, which winters at the grasslands. Birds of prey include falcons, eagles, operated on have been found to have as much as 36kg of plastic in their gut. The society aims
hawks, kites, kestrels and harriers. to educate people about the dangers of this kind of waste and so prevent cows from dying a
The Thar Desert also has a prolific variety of birdlife. At the small village slow and agonising death.
of Khichan, about 135km from Jodhpur, you can see vast flocks of demoi- Visitors are welcome at the hospital (h10am-5pm), in Chota Hawala village, near Udaipur.
selle cranes descending on fields in the morning and evening from the end The Animal Aid Society relies on donations and volunteer help, so if you can give either money
of August to the end of March. Other winter visitors to the desert include or time you’ll be supporting excellent work. You could give a straightforward gift or sponsor a
Houbara bustards and common cranes. As water is scarce, water holes attract donkey. The society’s website gives details of the projects your money could help with. Ideally, a
large flocks of imperial, spotted, pintail and Indian sandgrouse in the early volunteer should commit at least two weeks, working four or more hours a day, but if you have
mornings. Other desert dwellers include drongos, common and bush quail, less time the society is happy to make other arrangements. Volunteers don’t have to be skilled –
blue-tailed and little green bee-eaters, and grey partridges. Desert birds of you can help by just giving animals the care and attention that can speed recovery. For more
prey include eagles (steppe and tawny), buzzards (honey and long-legged), details, call %0294-2513359 or check the website at www.animalaidunlimited.com.
goshawks, peregrine falcons and kestrels. The most notable of the desert and
 80 E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s & W i l d l i fe S a n c t u a r i e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues 81

the vultures absorbed while feeding from livestock carcasses. The reduction
in vulture numbers has had knock-on ecological and health effects, as the MAJOR NATIONAL PARKS & WILDLIFE SANCTUARIES
birds once disposed of many carcasses, thus reducing risks of disease. National park/
wildlife sanctuary Location Features Best time to visit
Plants Darrah WS southern Rajasthan, leopards, chinkaras, Feb-May
Vegetation in the desert zone is, not surprisingly, sparse and hardy. Only a p232 spotted deer, wild boar,
limited range of grasses and slow-growing thorny trees and shrubs can grow wolves, sloth bears
here. The most common tree species are the ubiquitous khejri (Prosopis Desert NP western Rajasthan, great Indian bustards, Sep-Mar
cineraria) and varieties of acacia. Rajasthan also has some dry teak forest, p336 blackbuck, nilgai, wolves,
dry mixed deciduous forest, bamboo brakes and subtropical hill forests. desert foxes, crested porcupines
A Guide to the Wildlife Forest stocks are dwindling, however, as inhabitants scour the landscape Dhawa Doli WS western Rajasthan, blackbuck, nilgai, Oct-Feb
Parks of Rajasthan, for fuel and fodder. p316 partridges, desert foxes
by Dr Suraj Ziddi, The hardy khejri, which is held sacred by the Bishnoi tribes of Jodhpur Gajner WS western Rajasthan, desert cats, desert foxes, Oct-Mar
with photographs by district (see p315), is drought resistant on account of its very deep roots (up p347 chinkaras
Subhash Bhargava, is a to 30m below the surface). No part of the plant goes to waste: the thorny Jaisamand WS southern Rajasthan, crocodiles, leopards, chinkaras, Nov-Jun
comprehensive guide to twigs are used to build barriers to keep sheep and goats away from crops, the p262 beautiful chhatris (cenotaphs)
leaves are dried and used for fodder, and the bean-shaped fruit can be eaten Keoladeo Ghana NP eastern Rajasthan, 400 bird species, Oct-Mar,
Rajasthan’s reserves.
ripe or unripe. The latter, when cooked, is known as sangri. The wood is p188 including migratory Jul-Aug
used to make furniture and the branches are burnt for fuel. The khejri twigs birds & waterbirds (wetlands)
are used in the sacred fire that’s lit during marriage ceremonies. Kumbalgarh WS southern Rajasthan, wolves in packs of up to 40, chow- Oct-Jun
Another arid-zone tree is rohira (Tecoma undulata). Its pods form medi- p259 singhas,four-horned antelopes,
cines that relieve abscesses, and its wood is used to make furniture. The leopards, horse riding
Mt Abu WS southern Rajasthan, deciduous & subtropical Mar-Jun
Central Arid Zone Research Institute (p85) has had some success with p271 forest, sloth bears, wild
the introduction of faster-growing exotic species to the desert, including boar, sambars, leopards
various acacias. National Chambal WS southern Rajasthan, gharial crocodiles, wolves, Oct-Mar
chinkaras, blackbuck,
NATIONAL PARKS & WILDLIFE SANCTUARIES wild boar, caracals
Among its numerous reserves, Rajasthan has some world-renowned wildlife Ranthambhore NP eastern Rajasthan, tigers, chitals, leopards, Oct-Apr
sanctuaries and national parks (see the table opposite). Some of these, such as p215 nilgai, chinkaras, bird life,
Ranthambhore, Keoladeo and Sariska, were originally the hunting reserves of ancient fort
the maharajas. Others, such as the Desert National Park in western Rajasthan, Sariska Tiger Reserve eastern Rajasthan, leopards, chitals, Nov-Jun
have been established to protect and preserve the unique plants and animals p198 chinkaras, birdlife, fort,
found in the arid zone. deserted city & temples
Sitamata WS southern Rajasthan, ancient teak trees, deer, Mar-Jul
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES p263 sambars, leopards,
Oont chhode Akaro, Bakri chhode Kangro flying squirrels, wild boar
Tal Chhapar WS northern Rajasthan, blackbuck, chinkaras, Sep-Mar
The camel consumes everything other than ak (a thorny shrub) but p298 desert foxes, antelopes,
the goat devours even that, leaving only the pebbles harriers, eagles, sparrowhawks
Marwari proverb

Rajasthan’s challenging climate and human needs are responsible for its revive Keoladeo Ghana National Park, local farmers threatened to commit
major environmental problems of drought, desertification and overgrazing, suicide. In Alwar district, villages have adopted traditional techniques to
while Delhi and Agra’s big burdens are air and water pollution. combat water shortages. The construction of johars (semi-circular earthen India’s premier wildlife
dams) slows the flow of monsoon run-off and thereby increases soil infiltra- magazine, Sanctuary, has
Drought tion and the level of groundwater. a website, www.sanctu
Droughts are a recurrent spectre in Rajasthan, due to the unreliability of aryasia.com, highlighting
the monsoon. The propensity of drought conditions highlights the need Desertification the latest conservation
for water-conservation strategies in the state, and many villages have Desertification is partly a natural progression, as geological factors have given issues and with numerous
been making impressive gains by reviving traditional water-harvesting rise to warmer, drier climates, but it has been exacerbated by more and more related links.
techniques. However, the state still faces a huge water crisis. In western humans and their domestic animals exploiting fewer and fewer resources.
Rajasthan, even in good years, lack of water means cultivation barely meets The Thar Desert is the most densely populated desert in the world, with an
subsistence requirements. Groundwater levels in cities such as Jaipur are average of over 60 people per square kilometre.
lowering alarmingly. An acute shortage of water, plus the problems of salinity, erosion, per-
Water scarcity has led to clashes between local people and conservation- iodic droughts, overgrazing, overcultivation and overconsumption of scanty
ists. When it was suggested that water be re-diverted from Panchana Dam to vegetation for fuel and timber, all either contribute to or are a consequence
 82 ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues 83

You can make a difference by cutting down on the amount of waste water that you pro-
RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL duce. Washing with a bucket uses around one-third of the water that’s required for a shower.
You may feel that as an individual you are helpless to prevent environmental destruction, but Similarly, using Indian rather than Western toilets reduces the amount of water that is flushed
there’s a lot you can do, with little effort. down the drain.

Rubbish Retaliation Animal Welfare

Tourism contributes to the massive rubbish problem in Indian cities. In Udaipur the large number India’s ancient reverence for the natural world manifests itself in myths, beliefs and cults that
of hotels around Lake Pichola has contributed to widespread pollution within and around the are an intrinsic part of the cultural fabric. But in a country where millions live below the poverty
lake. Travellers can help by encouraging hotel management to dispose of rubbish in an environ- line, survival often comes before sentiment.
mentally friendly manner. You can put similar pressure on the camel-safari operators who dump The World Society for the Protection of Animals (WSPA) works to raise awareness of cases of
rubbish in the desert during their tours. cruelty and exploitation. One campaign focuses on dancing bears. Cubs of endangered sloth
bears are captured in the wild, and then their muzzles are pierced so rope can be threaded
Plastic Peril through the hole, and their teeth are pulled out. The bears’ nomadic handlers ply tourist traps
Many once-pristine regions are now vanishing under a sea of abandoned plastic mineral-water in Agra and Jaipur. According to the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), around 70,000 snakes
bottles. Travellers can make a significant difference by only buying products that use environ- (including the endangered king cobra) perish annually due to the dreadful living conditions they
mentally friendly packaging. experience in captivity, particularly with snake charmers.
Discarded plastic bags are a very serious problem (see Animal Aid Society, p84). Avoid buying If you are concerned about the welfare of animals, don’t take an interest in snake charm-
anything in plastic bags and bottles, and, if you must buy plastic, reuse it. Other ways of reducing ing, bear dancing, photographic monkeys and other sideshow acts that exploit animals – don’t
Rajasthan’s plastic peril include buying tea in terracotta cups at train stations (or in your own take their photographs or give money. For information on elephant welfare, see The Amber
cup) rather than plastic, bringing your own canteen and purifying water rather than buying it in Elephants, p179.
plastic bottles (see p391), and buying soft drinks in (recyclable) glass bottles.
Monumental Mission
Waste Not, Want Not A number of monuments in Rajasthan are suffering irreparable damage from tourism and gov-
Traditionally, Rajasthanis have used ingenious methods of conserving every drop of water. In ernment indifference. One of the most threatened is Jaisalmer Fort, which has been listed in the
Jaisalmer the same water was used to bathe, wash clothes, wash the floor and water the garden. New York–based World Monuments Watch list of 100 endangered sites worldwide. See Golden
Today, however, Rajasthan has a water crisis. Across the state many people face a lack of drinking City Blues, p324, for information on how you can help save the fort. Other monuments in dire
water, while in Jaisalmer increased water usage is causing the fort to crumble. There are various need of protection include the painted havelis (traditional, ornately decorated residences) of
reasons for this, but the growing number of tourist facilities, particularly bathrooms, designed Shekhawati. You can help to reverse the damage by volunteering in conservation and restora-
in line with Western standards, is definitely one of them. tion efforts – see p369.

of the continuing desertification of Rajasthan. As inhabitants scour the impact. The Yamuna River is also horrendously polluted. In Agra, concerns
landscape for wood fuel, some species of vegetation face a severe threat. The that air pollution was affecting the Taj Mahal led to the designation of a 4km
roots of the phog plant (Calligonum polygonoides), which is one of the few traffic-free zone around the building in 1994. In 1999 polluting factories
‘concerns species found on sand dunes, are removed and used for fuel. Once common in the area were closed, and illegal buildings within 500m were torn down ‘The
that air pol- in Jodhpur district, phog has now completely disappeared. The rohira tree (unfortunately, no provision was made for those affected by these rulings).
has all but disappeared from the arid zone. Rohira wood, known locally as alarming
lution was Marwar teak, is highly prized for furniture construction, and was tradition- Plastic Waste disappear-
affecting the ally used in the carved architraves and window frames of havelis (traditional, Almost everywhere in Rajasthan, Delhi and Agra, plastic bags and bottles ance of the
Taj Mahal ornately decorated residences). clog drains, litter the city streets and deserts, and even stunt the growth of
grass in parks. Of growing concern are the number of cows, elephants and Aravalli
led to the Pollution other creatures that consume this plastic waste (see Animal Aid Society, p84). forests has
designation Deforestation and pollution are damaging many parts of Rajasthan, es- The antiplastic lobby estimates that about 70% of the plastics used in India provoked
of a 4km pecially the southern region. Industrial waste has caused air, water and is discarded within a week and only about 15% is recycled.
noise pollution; this is particularly noticeable around the industrial town of government
traffic-free Kota. Marble mining has been especially harmful. Some areas of southern Deforestation intervention’
zone around Rajasthan, including the region from Kota to Jhalawar, seem to be covered in There are regular problems between villagers and the authorities running
the building’ a thin layer of marble dust, and around Rambagh, near Jaipur, the landscape Rajasthan’s sanctuaries as they battle over resources. The dense forests that
is scarred by the (now closed) mines. covered the Aravalli Range prior to Independence are thinning rapidly. Before
To address water pollution, the government has introduced policies that Independence, villagers were forbidden to encroach on these forests, which
restrict building and development around lakes and rivers. were the hunting preserves of the nobility. However, following Independence,
In Delhi, a shocking number of people die of air-pollution-related diseases huge numbers of trees were felled to meet increasing timber, fuel and fodder
every year. Road traffic is the chief cause of the problem, though recent requirements, and in line with population growth this trend is continuing.
measures, including the development of the metro and the conversion of The alarming disappearance of the Aravalli forests has provoked govern-
all rickshaw engines to use compressed natural gas (CNG), have had an ment intervention, and some areas are now closed periodically to enable
 © Lonely Planet Publications
84 ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s 85

Several organisations work to regenerate the ecosystem and promote

JUST ADD WATER environmentally sustainable development. Tarun Bharat Sangh (Young India
Irrigating India’s vast arid lands has long been the dream of rulers and politicians. The Indira Organisation; %01465-225043; www.tarunbharatsangh.org; Tarun Ashram, Bhikampura, Via Thangazi,
Gandhi Canal was initiated in 1957 and, though it is still incomplete, it includes an amazing District Alwar 301022) is an acclaimed nongovernmental organisation (NGO)
9709km of canals, with the main canal stretching 649km. Critics suggest that the massive project, involved in water-harvesting projects. It constructs small dams to collect
connected with Bhakra Dam in Punjab, was concerned with short-term economics and politics rainwater using traditional technology and local labour. Since 1974 it has
to the detriment of the long-term ecology of the region. set up more than 4000 structures.
The canal has opened up large tracts of the arid western region for cash crops, but these The Central Arid Zone Research Institute (CAZRI; %029-2740584, www.cazri.res.in; Light
tracts are managed by wealthy landowners rather than the rural poor. Environmentalists say that Industrial Area, Jodhpur 342003) focuses on the problems of desertification. It has
soil has been destroyed through over-irrigation, and indigenous plants have suffered, adding to a small pictorial museum with a photographic exhibition illustrating the
the degeneration of the arid zone. Furthermore, sections of the Indira Gandhi Canal are built on institute’s work.
traditional grazing grounds, to which graziers are now denied access. The canal has also been Ubeshwar Vikas Mandal ([email protected]; 125 Priyadarshini Nagar Bedla Rd, Udaipur) is
blamed for breeding malaria-carrying mosquitoes. a small NGO studying and promoting sustainable agriculture, and focusing
In 2008, the waters from India’s largest westward flowing river, the Narmada, which were dammed on methods such as rainwater harvesting.
in highly controversial circumstances, trickled into Rajasthan’s drought-ravaged regions of Jalore In Shekhawati, Ramesh Jangid has pioneered inspirational ecological
and Barmer. The miraculous appearance of the water brought untold joy to the long-suffering measures at his resort, Apani Dhani, a unique project in Rajasthan. See p277
villagers. However, the entire Narmada River project has been heavily criticised both on environ- for more information.
mental grounds and for displacing a large number of tribal people in the Narmada Valley.

the forest to regenerate. However, the closed regions are poorly policed,
and locals are also entitled to take dry wood from the areas. There is simply
not enough wood for everyone, so villagers ringbark healthy trees, return-
ing later to remove the dead timber. Residents of the villages that surround
Ranthambhore and Sariska regularly clash with the authorities, as these
villagers illegally remove wood from the protected areas.

Conservation
The best way to combat desertification is afforestation. Trees provide food,
fodder, fuel and timber, and they also stabilise the earth and act as wind-
breaks, lessening the damage caused by sandstorms.
The first official recognition of the advancement of the Thar Desert and the
alarming ramifications of this for the inhabitants of the arid zone occurred
in 1951. As a result, in 1952 the Desert Afforestation Research Station was
established in Jodhpur to conduct research into the problems of desertifica-
tion (the research station became the Central Arid Zone Research Institute
in 1959). This is the most important institute of its type in south Asia.
The institute’s endeavours include stabilising the shifting sand dunes,
establishing silvipastoral (where trees are grown alongside shrubs that can
be used for livestock feed) and fuel-wood plantations, planting windbreaks to
reduce wind speed and subsequent erosion, rehabilitating degraded forests,
and starting afforestation of barren hill slopes.
Some of the institute’s work has been criticised by conservationists, who
claim that massive attempts to irrigate and afforest the arid zone alter its
fragile composition. An afforestation project along the Indira Gandhi Canal
has come under attack, as the indigenous phog plant is being uprooted and
replaced with fast-growing non-native species such as a hybrid Eucalyptus
and Acacia tortilis. Such species upset the desert ecosystem, are of little nu-
tritional or practical use to villagers, and reduce traditional grazing grounds
(animal husbandry is the economic staple and traditional livelihood for most © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
of the inhabitants of Rajasthan’s 11 desert districts). Environmentalists argue restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
that development should promote the generation and conservation of desert
species that are attuned and adapted to the local environment, and provide only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
food, fodder and fuel. everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’