Different types of fabrics and their patterns

Generally, a set number of yarns are used for the formation of fabrics. Also, a number of
techniques are used for producing fabrics such as weaving, knitting, and felting. The
type of fabrics varies by the fibres, the fabric formation techniques, machinery used for
producing them, and finishing techniques. Fabrics can also be made differently based
on the end-usage.

Generally, fabrics take the name of the fiber used to manufacture it such as fabrics

made out of 100% Cashmere Fibers is named as Cashmere Fabric.

However, certain fabrics although uses a particular fiber 100% or uses a blend of
different fibers may be termed otherwise and are named depending on weaving
patterns, texture, and the processes, etc. such as Organza fabrics were often used to
produce with Silk, but even though they started using it with alternate fibers, it continued
to be called as Organza Fabric.
Fabric

Fabric is one kind of yarn sheet that have a bond which may be made by chemical or mechanical
bond and for that which earns strength and show many properties.

Types of fabric

Mainly there are four types of fabric,

1. Knitted fabric.
2. Woven fabric.
3. Non-woven fabric.

Knitted fabric

When a fabric is made by interloping of one set of yarn is called knitted fabric. At list one
or one set of yarn is needed to make a knit fabric.

Woven fabric

Woven fabric is a fabric, which is made by the interlacement of two sets of warp and
weft yarn. At list two set of yarn is needed to make a woven fabric.

Non-woven fabric or felted fabric

Non-woven fabric is a fabric, which is made by creating of fibre weft and also the fabric
have mechanical or chemical bonding that is called non-woven fabric.
 Different Types of Knitted Fabrics
 

Fabrics, as we see, can be classified into four types according to the fabric structure
which are woven Fabric, non-woven fabric, knit fabric and braid. In this article, we will
get to know about various types of knitted fabrics that we come across in our day-to-day
life.

Knitting, unlike weaving, is a process of yarn manipulation by intermeshing the loops of

yarns to create textile or fabric. Knitted fabric consists of several consecutive rows of
intermeshed loops, which are joined together by consecutive loops pulled through one
or more loop from the prior row. The horizontal rows of loops in the fabric are called
course and the vertical row of loops are called wales.

Different Types of Knitted Fabrics

Depending on how the loops are made there are two types of knitting

1. Weft knitted fabrics 

2. Warp knitted fabrics
1. Weft knitting 

Weft knitting is a method of fabric formation in which the loops are made in a horizontal
way from a single yarn and each consecutive rows of loop build upon the prior loops
consecutively. The intermeshing of loops can take place both in a circular or flat form on
a course-wise basis. The fabric formed is very elastic, comfortable and warm to wear.
Properties can be varied depending on the types of yarn used. The curls along the
course and wales direction are due to the fabric structure and the knit density.

2. Warp knitting 

Warp knitting is a method of fabric formation in which the loops are made in a vertical
way along the length of the fabric from each warp yarns. Thus, there will be a needle for
each yarn. The knitted stitches in warp knit fabrics have a crisscross diagonal
appearance which feels smoother than weft knits. It shows less elasticity than weft
knitting. It becomes favourable over weft in properties like soft and drapey, higher
density, warm to wear. Through this process many different types of yarn can be
processed like combed, staple, carded and filament which is not possible with weft
knitting.

Example of Warp knit fabric

Classification of weft knitted fabrics

Weft knit fabrics can be divided into four primary structures -

Single jersey knit fabric 

Single jersey is the simplest and most economical weft structure to produce. It has a
good stretch in both wales and course direction with a potential recovery of 40% in
width after stretching. It can be recognized by the V-shaped looped appearance on the
technical face side and semi-circular loop on the technical back side. It has poor
dimensional stability with a problem of both shrinkage and growth and is widely used for
T-shirts, casual tops, hosiery etc. 

Single jersey

Rib (double jersey) knit fabric 

The rib is made by alternating wales of knit and purl stitch and is knitted with two sets of
needles. It has a vertical cord appearance making it twice as thick than plain knit with
greater dimensional stability. They can be made both in a flat and circular knitting
machine. It is mostly used in hemming and neckline of sweaters. some of the other
variations of rib knit are Cable fabric, Bird’s eye, Cardigans, Milano ribs. 
 Rib

Purl knit fabric

The purl knit structure has the face and reverses loops knitted in an alternative course
which can only be achieved with double-ended latch needle. The thickness of the fabric
is double than that of the single jersey. It is stretchy with a definite right and wrong side.
It is not often used on as it can unravel easily. It is most often used in knitwear,
underwear, hosiery etc.

Interlock knit fabric 

Interlock knit is a type of double-layered knitted structure produced by alternating knit

and purl stitch in both wales and course direction on a knitting machine equipped with
two sets of needles. the fabric resembles that of jersey knit on both front and back. It
has better dimensional stability than single jersey and all types of knitting and does not
curl up on edges. It stretches more along the lengthwise direction than in breadthwise.
Due to its structure, it provides better insulation as it is able to trap air between its
layers. It is most often used in a sweatshirt, table mat etc. 
 example of Interlock knit fabric 

Classification of warp knitted fabrics

The warp knitted fabrics can be divided into three primary structure

i) Tricot knits 

Tricot knit is made using a single set of beard needles and filament yarns. The
multifilament yarn face stitches are perpendicular to the back stitch providing a smooth
surface with dense stitch. It provides good air/water permeability, softness, crease
resistance, drape due to its structure. It is mostly used in lingerie, nightwear, dresses
etc. 

Tricot fabric
ii) Raschel knits
Raschel knit is made using a single set of latch needle and spun yarns. Knits can be
lacy, highly patterned and even piled. Its properties include a fabric which can be dense
or compact, open or lofty, stable or stretchy, single faced or reversible. It can be
identified by their intricate designs. The use can be in almost any garment due to high
customization of the raschel machine from lightweight lace to heavy chenille. The
machines can produce both flat and tubular warp knit fabrics. 

Raschel knit

iii) Milanese knit

Milanese knit is made of two sets of yarns knitted diagonally. The face side has fine
vertical rib and the reverse has a diagonal structure. It is lightweight, drapey, smooth
and is mostly used for gloves.

Apart from the above basic types, there is a numerous amount of knitted fabric made
with various alterations. The flat or flat or jersey knit can be varied by using different
yarns or double-looped stitches of different length to make velour, terry and plush
fabrics.
There are also specialised weft knits such as Intarsia, Fleece, Jacquard Jerseys,
Knitted Velour, Knitted Terry, French Terry.

Crochet knit fabric

Different Types of Weaves in Woven Fabrics

Textile fabrics are essential material for making clothes, home made-up and other
apparel products. Fabrics can be classified into four types according to the fabric weave
structure - woven fabric, non-woven fabric, knit fabric and braid. In this post, we will
discuss various types of woven fabrics according to the fabric weaves.
Basket weave

What are woven fabrics

Any textiles which are made from the process of weaving are called woven fabrics.
Weaving is a method of textile production wherein two distinct set of yarns or threads
are interlaced at a right angle to one another to form a fabric or cloth. The longitudinal
yarns are called warp and the lateral threads are called weft or filling. Woven fabrics are
woven in a loom whose basic function is to hold the warp threads under tension to
facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads.

The characteristics of the woven fabric depend a lot on the method in which the yarns
are interwoven in. The characteristics of the weave also change depending on the type
of the fibre used along with the thickness of the yarn it is woven with. Woven fabrics
only stretch diagonally (in bias direction) and usually fray at the edges. Depending on
the end use, the fabric weave design is selected for weaving the fabric.

Majority of the woven products are created with one of the three basic weaves: Plain
weave, Satin weave, or Twill weave. Some of the most common weave made with the
alterations of the above are shown here.
1. Plain weaves

Plain weave, also known as calico, tabby, taffeta as the name suggests is the simplest
type of weave where the threads are woven together one after another meaning threads
interlaced over one another. It is one of the strongest weaves as the threads are
constantly crossing over each other. Its application can be found ranging from heavy
and coarse fabric like the canvas to the lightest and finest fabrics like muslins.

Plain weave

2. Matt weave

Matt weave is a variation of plain weave with two warp thread passing over two warp
thread instead of a single yarn giving a unique checkerboard-like appearance. Matt
weave is also known as basket weave. This provides more structure to the fabric. It has
great insulating properties and its structure makes the fabric more breathable. It is also
naturally resistant to wrinkles. 

Example of Matt weave: Oxford fabrics or oxford weave. The Pinpoint weave, Royal
Weave are some variations of matt weave. It is mostly used for making casual or sporty
cotton shirts, pants and other casual-to-formal garments. Oxford weave is for shirting
fabric.
 Oxford Weave

More variations are made from the above with examples like basket weave and monk’s
cloth, which are made by group of yarns in place of a single yarn in plain weave or by
alterations of fine and coarse yarn to make ribbed and corded fabrics with Bedford cord,
pique, dimity as warp-ribbed and poplin, rep, grosgrain as weft-ribbed.

3. Twill fabrics

Twill weave is responsible for the diagonal pattern in the fabric. Depending on the
technique used in the weave, the diagonal pattern will get different patches. It has
lesser binding points compared to plain weave with a higher cloth thickness and mass
per unit area. This type of weave is most commonly used for denim fabric and is
responsible for two different colours of the fabric in two faces. Some of the alterations of
twill weave include gabardine, serge, drill.
 Twill weave

4. Herringbone fabric

Herringbone is a variation of the twill weave. The pattern is called herringbone as it

resembles that of the skeleton of herringbone fish. The threads are woven in a way that
a herringbone pattern appears on the fabric. Like the twill weave, it also has countless
variations, which give different appearances to the fabric. It is most commonly used for
suits and outerwear. Woven fabric tapes are commonly used as garment trims.

Herringbone fabric weave

5. Dobby Weave

Dobby is usually an advanced design which is used to create a texture in the fabric with
a slightly raised design. Dobby weave is the combination of several different
thicknesses of yarn and weave technique. The warp and weft may or may not be the
same colour. Unlike plain weave, it is less susceptible to wrinkles. Pique fabric of polo
shirt is a common example of dobby weave.

Dobby fabric

6. Satin Fabric

There are many types of satin from cotton satin and polyester satin to silk satin. The
satin weave has floating or overshot warp threads on the surface which gives the fabric
a shiny surface, which is often associated with exclusive fabrics.

Satin Fabric
Satin is a type of weave and not a kind of fibre. When the uncrossed threads are in the
weft, the weave is called Sateen. It is mostly used for apparel in evening gowns, shirts,
wedding dresses, ties etc. along with upholstery and bedding.

7. Pile fabric (Velvet fabric)

In pile fabric, extra sets of warps or fillings are woven over ground yarns of plain or twill
weave to form loops. Pile fabrics have been defined as fabrics(s) with a cut or uncut
loops which stand up densely on the surface. 

Velvet fabric in an example of cut pile. Velvet is known for its soft and smooth surface.
It consists of soft threads called pile sticking up out of the fabric. The pile is formed by
supplemental yarns that can run both along warp and weft direction. The fabric is woven
and then cut apart for the soft pile to emerge. There are many variations of velvet which
provide the different look to the surface. Its characteristics depend on the type of yarn
used in its manufacturing. Cotton velvet (velveteen) is the strongest and most durable
type of velvet.

Velvet fabric 
There are even variations for pile fabric with warp-pile fabric like terry, plush and weft-
pile like velveteen, corduroy.

Terry weave

8. Jacquard fabrics

The Jacquard loom is a weaving mechanism done in special looms which can control
individual warp threads producing fabrics having complicated woven patterns such as
brocade, damask, tapestry etc.

Brocade Weave
 Non-woven Fabrics

There are four main types of non-woven products: Spunbound/Spunlace, Airlaid, Drylaid
and Wetlaid. This article covers these main types in detail. 
The four main and most common types of-non-woven products are:

1. Spunbound/Spunlace.
2. Airlaid.
3. Drylaid.
4. Wetlaid.

Spunbound/Spunlace
Spunbound fabrics are produced by depositing extruded, spun filaments onto a
collection belt in a uniform random manner followed by bonding the fibres. The fibres
are separated during the web laying process by air jets or electrostatic charges. The
collecting service is usually perforated to prevent the air stream from deflecting and
carrying the fibres in an uncontrolled manner. Bonding imparts strength and integrity to
the web by applying heated rolls or hot needles to partially melt the polymer and fuse
the fibres together. Since molecular orientation increases the melting point, fibres that
are not highly drawn can be used as thermal binding fibres. Polyethelene or random
ethylene-propylene copolymers are used as low melting bonding sites.

Spunbound products are employed in carpet backing, geotextiles, and disposable

medical/hygiene products, automotive products, civil engineering and packaging
products.

The process of Spunbound non-woven production tends to be more economical as the

fabric production is combined with the fibre production.
Airlaid
The process of airlaying is a non-woven web forming process that disperses into a fast
moving stream and condenses them onto a moving screen by means of pressure or
vacuum.

Airlaid fabrics is mainly composed of woodpulp and has a nature of absorbing well. It
can be mixed with a definite proportion of SAP to improve its capabilities of absorbing
wet. Airlaid non-woven is also referred to as dry paper non-woven. The nonwoven is
made through the airlaying process. Transit the woodpulp into the bundle of airflow to
make the fibres disperse and agglomeration on the floating web. Airlaid non-woven is
reinforced of web.

Airlaid non-woven products are employed in a number of different products across a

wide range of industry’s including; the interlining of clothes, medical and hygiene
products, embroidery material and filter material.

 
Drylaid

Dry laid webs are mainly produced using staple fibres natural or manmade. Dry laid
webs formation mainly consists of 4 steps:
Staple fibre preparation --> Opening, cleaning, mixing & blending --> Carding -->
Web laying.
Advantages of Drylaid non-woven production include; The isotropic structure of the web,
voluminous webs can be produced and a wide variety of process able fibres such as
natural, synthetic, glass, steel and carbon.

Drylaid non-woven products are employed by many products ranging from cosmetic
wipes and baby diapers to beverage filtration products.

Wetlaid
Wetlaid non-woven are non-wovens made by a modified papermaking process. That is,
the fibres to be used are suspended in water. A major objective of wet laid nonwoven
manufacturing is to produce structures with textile-fabric characteristics, primarily
flexibility and strength, at speeds approaching those associate with papermaking.

Specialized paper machines are used to separate the water from the fibres to form a
uniform sheet of material, which is then bonded and dried. In the roll good industry 5
-10% of nonwovens are made by using the wet laid technology.

Wetlaid is used for a wide ranging amount of industries and products. Some of the most
common products that use wetlaying non-woven technology include; Tea bag paper,
Face cloths, Shingling and Synthetic fibre paper.
 

Some other common types of non-wovens include: Composite, Meltblown,

Carded/Carding, Needle punch, Thermal bonded, Chemical bonded and
Nanotechnology.  

THE END
 This assignment is prepared by
Hasanuzzaman ; ID – 181385010

Department : Textile (Evening)

Batch : 38th
 Assignment on
Different types of fabrics.

Sub. To
Engr. Md. Shariful ISlam
Lecturer
Department : Textile
City University

Sub. By
Hasanuzzaman ; ID-181385010

Bath :38th (KA)

Program:BSTE(Eve)

Submission Date:02.11.2019