Forging the Fighter

The Martial Artist’s Guide To

Effective Fighting Skills
By
Chuck Callaway
 Copyright © 2020 Chuck Callaway
Cover and illustrations by Chuck Callaway
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 9798551777175
Disclaimer and Warning
The martial arts and self-defense by nature involve the use of fighting skills
and techniques designed to cause injury to an attacker. The practice and use
of these skills can be dangerous and physically demanding. The improper use
of any fighting technique could result in both criminal and civil action against
the person responsible. The information provided in this book is for
informational and entertainment purposes only. The author and publisher
are not responsible and assume no liability for any injury that might
result from the practice or use, proper or improper, of the information
contained in this book. One should always consult a physician before
engaging in any physical activity. The information contained in this book is
intended to document fighting techniques, skills, principles, and theory as
studied and taught by the author to a select few students. While a tremendous
amount can be learned from these pages, it is impossible to convey specific
movement, subtleties and to correct a student’s errors in written form. The
reader should seek out a qualified instructor to ensure safe and proper study.
 Contents
Introduction
Forward
The Journey
Body Posture and Footwork
Hand Weapons and Techniques
Kicking Skills
Methods of Defense
Elbow Boxing, Knees, Headbutt, and Clinch
Proper Breathing Skills
Application of Techniques
Trapping the Hands
Joint Manipulation
Grappling and Ground Fighting
Principles of Self-Defense
Reverse Engineering the Traditional Martial Arts
Training
Conclusion
About the Author
 Introduction
Regardless of what style of martial arts that you study, there are techniques
that are effective in a real fight and techniques that are not. Every system of
combat has both strong and weak points and ultimately you must find what
works for you. My purpose in writing this book is to document the most
effective fighting techniques that I have learned in over forty years of training
in the martial arts. I know firsthand that the techniques in this book are highly
effective, easy to learn, and can be applied in a real situation against an
opponent who is committed on causing you harm. They are intended to give
you a solid foundation that can be complimented with future study of any
fighting system.
It is vital to understand that techniques alone do not win a fight. Other factors
such as speed, endurance, strength, reflexes, and mental preparation can often
be more important than mere technique. When all things are equal however,
the superior technician has a great advantage. The key is to take the most
practical skills and drill them until they become second nature. You should be
able to execute these moves without thought. If you must think about
executing a specific technique, it’s already too late.
This book will cover basic postures, footwork, striking, kicking, grappling
skills, strategy, and more. I hope it will become a useful resource of
information for people who are interested in practical martial arts skills. If
possible, you should seek out a qualified instructor to guide you along your
journey. You should also have an open mind and not get caught up in
arguments over specific styles and which system is better. Although this
manual contains techniques from arts such as, boxing, karate, jiujitsu, arnis,
Tang Soo Do, kung-fu, and Judo, I will avoid mentioning styles as much as
possible. I prefer to focus on the techniques and not their origin. I hope you
enjoy!
Chuck Callaway
 Forward
This manual was originally written in the early 90’s as a guide for a group of

people whom I was training in martial arts. I was extremely lucky to have
studied martial arts from some amazing teachers and had developed my own
personal system of fighting. I based my practice on techniques that were the

most effective in any situation and were easy to learn. Over the years, I have
run into many of my old training partners and they all would say, “Hey, I still
have that book you made.”

Recently my sons have shown an interest in learning martial arts. The

sheer amount of information available today both in written form and on the
internet, can be very confusing and overwhelming. As I started teaching my
sons the core of what they should know to be effective martial artists, I
remembered this manual from decades ago. I decided it was time to dust it off
and update it. The book contains my original text, drawings, and artwork that
I did to illustrate the various techniques. In addition, I have added additional
material that was not included in the original manual. I hope that this book
provides you with a solid foundation of realistic skills that will make you an
effective martial artist.
Chuck Callaway
2020
 Chapter 1

The Journey
To understand why I have chosen the material in this book as the most
effective techniques for fighting, I believe a brief overview of my background
is important. As a kid growing up in the seventies, I was always intrigued by
the martial arts. The fluid movements of Bruce Lee and Chuck Norris
fascinated me and sparked my interest in learning how to defend myself.
Around 1978, I saw a group of people practicing Praying Mantis Kung Fu in
the park near my home. I asked the instructor how much it would cost to join
the group and he told me it was eighty dollars a month. I didn’t know at the
time that he was a well-respected kung-fu master who had recently come to
the United States from China, but eighty dollars was a lot of money back then
for martial arts classes. When I approached my father to ask if I could join the
group, he quickly said no. My dad had boxed in the Navy and made it clear
that he didn’t think Asian martial arts were effective. As I walked away
disappointed, he told me, “You don’t need all that crap, all you need is a
good right hook!”
Despite my initial let down, I still had a strong desire to learn martial arts. I
bought every martial arts book I could find and started stretching daily and
practicing kicks and strikes in the basement of our home. I made a heavy bag
out of an old canvas mail sack that I had stuffed with clothes and hung in a
tree. I would spend hours reading Black Belt magazine and practicing the
moves shown in the books. Soon I had a large personal library of books that
included the writings of Mas Oyama, Bruce Lee, Gichin Funakoshi, and
many more. The books were only a temporary fix to my obsession. I
eventually heard about a Karate class that was being taught for free at a local
recreation center. The style was Okinawan Shito-Ryu.
The Classes were taught by Sensei Bob Kelsy and were very structured. We
would warm up, practice blocks, kicks and punches across the floor, work on
forms (kata) and then spar to end the class. All traditional etiquette was
followed including bowing upon entering and leaving the training area. I also
continued to practice at home on my own. It was around this time that I first
realized the kata movements we learned were never seen when we sparred.
The low stances, blocking maneuvers, and hand on the hip position where
nowhere to be seen during a sparring match. On one occasion while sparring,
I was disciplined by the instructor for using a highly effective technique I had
learned from a book. I soon heard about another local class that taught a
Korean martial art called Tae Kwon Do. I was intrigued by the high fancy
kicks of Tae Kwon Do, so I left the Shito-Ryu school and joined.
The Tae Kwon Do class was free for college students at the University of
Illinois and was taught in a gymnasium on the campus. I was in high school
at the time, so I had to sneak into the class. This was not a problem because
there were over a hundred students in the class. Like my previous class,
kicking and punching techniques were practiced across the gym floor. We
would practice various forms and spar, but there was never any discussion
about what the fighting applications of the forms were. I continued training at
the university for about three years and eventually achieved a brown belt in
Tae Kwon Do before leaving home to join the military.
The military derailed my traditional martial arts training for a while during
bootcamp, but with military police as my career field, I was trained in
defensive tactics and close quarter combat techniques. Eventually I was
stationed in South Korea and began training in the art of Tang Soo Do. The
Koreans were extremely strict and disciplined in their training. If we
performed a technique wrong, the instructor would strike you with a bamboo
sword. The training was grueling, and I started to develop a strong will
power. On one occasion while breaking bricks, I cut my foot open and had to
finish the remainder of the class while bleeding profusely from the wound.
There was a lot more physical contact when we sparred, and my skills
improved rapidly. Unfortunately, my ego grew as well.
In 1987, I returned to the United States after earning a black belt in Tang Soo
Do. I was young and cocky at the time and had gotten fairly good at martial
arts. I had developed some impressive high kicks and thought I was
invincible. My first wakeup call came when I met a martial arts instructor on
the military base named Vic Butler. Vic had been training for a long time and
held a high black belt rank in several martial arts including Shotokan Karate,
Goshin Budo Jiujitsu, Molum Kung Fu, and Kenpo. He was also extremely
proficient in western boxing and a system of elbow boxing which had come
out of the prison system. After we met, he invited me to come train with him
and a few of his students.
I was prepared to give Vic and his students a run for their money at the first
class I attended. I was surprised when we started the training off by rolling
our shins with a wooden dowel to condition them. This was extremely
painful. The real turning point for me came during sparring. I squared off
against one of Vic’s students and we began trading blows. His kicks were all
low to my legs and his hand techniques were mainly boxing. I threw a few
high kicks and that’s when Vic stopped me. He preceded to tell me that my
kicks were particularly good, but that I should not use high kicks while
fighting. He explained that kicking high left me vulnerable to a variety of
techniques including groin strikes and takedowns. I argued that my kicks
were fast and powerful and disagreed. Vic then invited me to spar with him
and I immediately lunged in with a high round house kick to his head. The
next thing I knew I woke up on the floor. Vic had evaded my kick, taken me
down and choked me unconscious with a rear naked choke. From that point
forward my training changed.
Over the next several years I trained intensely with Vic and eventually
achieved a third-degree black belt from him. I began to focus more on the
reality of my martial arts skills. I had evolved as a martial artist, but my
journey had only begun. I craved knowledge so I started to study any martial
art I could find. I trained extensively in Filipino Kali and Arnis, Aikido,
Brazilian Jiu Jitsu, and Judo. I also left the military during this time and
became a police officer. This is when my martial arts journey evolved even
further.
It was drilled into us in the police academy that the goal was to do your job
and go home safely every night to your family. The defensive tactics that we
were taught were simple and direct. They were intended to be effective and
allow us to stop a threat or make an arrest in the most efficient manner with
the least amount of injury to the suspect. After the academy I continued to
work the streets for twenty years. I also became a defensive tactics instructor,
field training officer and a supervisor. During this time, I was involved in
countless situations where I had to use my training to defend myself, make an
arrest, or stop a threat. I started to get a very solid understanding of how to
end a fight quickly and efficiently and this carried over into my martial arts
training. I had drifted away from the traditional martial arts. I streamlined my
personal fighting system and focused on boxing, basic low kicks, elbows and
simple jiujitsu techniques when I trained. I also continued to practice Filipino
martial arts to enhance my reflexes.
In late 2009, I was struck full force in the head with a stick while practicing. I
shook it off and continued to train. A few days later I suffered two mini
strokes and lost my ability to talk for several minutes. I was rushed to the
hospital and examined by the doctor who could not find a reason for the
strokes. Ultimately the doctor believed a blood clot had passed through my
brain causing the strokes. This was probably due to the strike I had received.
I was told that there was a seventy five percent chance that I would suffer a
full-blown stroke within a year and that I would need to change my lifestyle
and eat a healthier diet. One of my Arnis training partners was also a Tai Chi
Chuan instructor and he suggested that I practice Tai Chi to benefit my
health. I began learning Tai Chi even though I had previously teased him
about practicing his “dance moves” in the park.
Learning Tai Chi was very relaxing, and it brought me back to the original
joy I had while learning martial arts as a kid. After a few months I had
learned the Yang Style Tai Chi form and practiced it daily. It was around this
time that a light bulb went off in my head. I was practicing the form and
thinking about how at one time the art had been considered the “Grand
Ultimate Fist” in China. As I performed the slow movements, I suddenly saw
the realistic fighting techniques contained within the form. I didn’t see chi
projection or pushing people away, I saw eye gouges and throat strikes. I saw
knees and elbows, groin kicks and limb destruction techniques. My realistic
training had caused me to look at traditional forms in a different manner.
I believe that the martial arts were created for one purpose, to survive a
violent attack and defend oneself or others. If the techniques were not
effective, you didn’t live long enough to teach them to anyone else. Only
effective fighting skills survived and were passed on. The ancient katas and
forms were the method of preserving these skills. The irony is that the forms
preserved the knowledge for us but at the same time we have lost the proper
translation. Like a book that is translated many times, elements of the story
can eventually be lost or mistranslated. In addition, people who have never
been in a deadly encounter may take these techniques and modify them to the
point that they are no longer effective. In the current stage of my journey I
continue to practice the martial arts daily and teach my sons. Although I
enjoy the practice of Tai Chi and traditional martial arts, my primary focus is
on simple, effective, proven techniques.
 Chapter 2
Body Posture and Footwork
Posture
In a real encounter you will see no stances. Stances are static and will make
you an easy target for the opponent to strike. A moving target is much harder
to hit, so you should always stay on the balls of your feet and remain mobile.
In the constant motion of a real fight you must use proper postures that
maintain balance, protect your vital areas, and allow for techniques to be
delivered with the utmost speed and power. There are two postures that
should be applied to your fighting system which allow freedom of movement
and proper execution of techniques while providing maximum protection
from the opponent’s attack. These postures are the boxer’s posture and the
modified cat posture.
The boxer’s posture is with your hands up guarding your head, your elbows
tucked in to shield your rib cage, your chin tucked into your lead shoulder to
protect your jaw and throat, and your weight evenly distributed between your
feet which are shoulder’s width apart. You should be standing at a forty-five-
degree angle to the attacker with your knees bent to act as shock absorbers.
The rear heel should be slightly raised to provide mobility and spring to your
movement. From the boxer’s posture your strikes will not be telegraphed and
will travel a shorter distance to the target. You will be able to attack and
defend in any direction very quickly and your lead hand and leg will provide
about eighty percent of your attack and defense.
The modified cat posture is an adaptation of the traditional karate stance
however, it is not a static posture. Again, the hands are held high to protect
the head and you face the attacker at a forty-five-degree angle. Ninety percent
of your body weight rests on the rear leg. This makes kicking, retreating,
counterattacking, and setting up the opponent for an entry, highly effective
from this position. The ball of your lead foot lightly touches the ground, and
your lead leg acts as a feeler like the antenna of an insect. As with the boxer’s
position, the key to good attack and defense is mobility.
All striking and defensive techniques should be practiced from these two
positions. Remain mobile but do not waste energy by bouncing around
needlessly. Do not cross your feet when moving or you may be knocked off
balance. Every strike that you execute from these body positions must travel
straight to the target and return quickly along the same path. This keeps you
covered and prevents a counter strike from landing solid. Your hands should
not be held too close to your face, or an opponent’s strike may knock your
own fist into your face causing damage.

Boxer’s Posture-In the boxer’s posture the chin is tucked into the
shoulder. Hands are held up to protect the head. Elbows are in to protect the
body. Knees are bent with the weight evenly distributed between the feet.
The knee of the lead leg is bent in slightly to protect the groin. The rear heel
is slightly raised to allow for springing mobility.

Modified Cat Posture-In the modified cat posture, the hands are held up
to protect the head. Your chin is tucked into the shoulder and the elbows are
held close to the body to protect the body. The knees are bent with ninety
percent of the weight on your rear leg. The front foot lightly touches the
ground like a cat stepping with its paw. This position allows for fast kicks
and entries.
Footwork
Proper footwork is like the wheels on a car, without it you can’t get very far.
Footwork allows you to enter in for grappling, set up attacks, avoid the
opponent’s strikes, and to get the maximum power behind your techniques.
The following are the most essential footwork skills that every martial artist
should be proficient with.
The Shuffle Step (Forwards and Backwards)- From a boxer’s
posture, step forward slightly with your lead foot, then bring your rear foot up
the same distance. Reverse these movements to shuffle backwards. Keep
your feet close to the ground, almost sliding along the surface of the floor.
Whenever you are moving in a straight line forward or backwards, you
should use the shuffle step. Repeat the movement continuously to cover
greater distance. This type of footwork insures good balance and economy of
motion.
The Shuffle Step

Lunge (Forward and Backwards)- This technique covers a great

distance and adds a tremendous amount of power to your attacks. Step in
deep with the lead foot, then your rear foot comes forward and replaces the
lead foot’s position as you lunge forward to attack. This is a very explosive
technique that is often used with a high feint and a side kick. It will catch
your opponent off guard because he thinks you are out of range and are too
far away to attack.

The Lunge used to execute a feint and a side kick

Sidestep (Left and Right)- The sidestep is used to get your body out of
the line of attack. From a boxer’s posture (right lead), step off the line of
attack to your right with your right foot to sidestep right. To sidestep left, step
off the line of attack to your left with your left foot. You will always step
right with the right leg and left with the left leg regardless of what position
you are in. As you step offline, step in slightly towards the target to help
close the distance. This will make your counterattack easier. Your upper body
follows the feet as they move offline.

Sidestep Left
 Sidestep Right
Body Shift (Left and Right/90 degrees and 180 degrees)- The
body shift is another technique that is used to get your body out of the line of
attack. To execute the 90-degree body shift from a modified cat posture the
lead foot comes back in a semi-circular movement as you shift your body
weight to it. Your hips and upper body turn to the side 90 degrees and your
original rear foot becomes the new lead foot in a modified cat posture. Your
head still faces the original direction towards the opponent, but your body has
shifted out of the way of the incoming attack. When doing a 180-degree body
shift your feet never leave the ground. Simply pivot your body weight 180
degrees and assume the modified cat posture. Hip rotation is essential in this
technique.

Body Shift
Against an attack coming straight in, your lead foot circles counterclockwise
and most of your body weight transfers to it. Your hips and upper body shift
out of the line of attack. In the illustration, the black dot represents where
your body was before the shift. The body shift can also be used to launch an
attack.

Body Pivot- The body pivot is used most often when executing joint
manipulation techniques. It allows you to pivot out of the way of an attack
and then pivot back towards the attacker to throw him or execute a painful
joint lock. Strikes may also be employed from this footwork pattern. From a
boxer’s posture, place all your weight on the lead leg, then step or swing the
rear leg around behind you in an arc to pivot. You may pivot up to 180
degrees depending on what the situation requires. The pivot may also be used
to keep an opponent in front of you when they are trying to circle you.

The Body Pivot

Triangle Step (Forward and Reverse)- The triangle step is very
effective for both attack and defense. The forward triangle is used to enter for
an attack. It allows you to cut off your opponent’s footwork, deliver an
effective strike, and then get back out of range again. The reverse triangle is
used more for defense and counterattack. It enables you to zone away from
an opponent’s attack and move to a more advantageous position at the side of
the opponent. When executing a forward triangle, imagine your opponent is
at the point of the triangle. You can step along the base of the triangle and
then enter on either side of the triangle towards the point for your attack. For
the reverse triangle, you are standing at the point of the triangle and your
opponent is at the base. You can evade attacks along the sides of the triangle
and move to the side of the opponent. Triangle stepping is very dynamic and
fluid. At any given time, you could be moving along a forward or reverse
triangle based on your intentions and the movement of your opponent. The
forward and reverse triangle are often used together in a rapid exchange of
offensive and defensive techniques.
 Forward Triangle

The Forward triangle

footwork allows you to zone in and attack your opponent at an angle. With
the opponent at the tip of the triangle and you at the base, step to either corner
of the base and zone in at an angle to your opponent

Reverse Triangle
The reverse triangle is highly effective for defense. You are at the tip of the
triangle and your attacker is at the base. Step along the sides of the triangle to
angle away from the attack and to a position at the side of the attacker.
As you can see, footwork is vital in a fight. The above footwork patterns may
seem complicated at first, but they are actually basic and simple in practice.
You must constantly drill footwork techniques until they become second
nature. In the beginning, you should just practice the footwork alone but later
add striking and kicking techniques in with your footwork as you train. You
should also practice combinations of the footwork patterns. For example, you
could shuffle forward, angle offline with the reverse triangle, and body pivot
to the side. A great way to practice footwork is to put the below pattern on
the floor with tape. You can train alone by practicing your footwork on the
pattern, or train with a partner by practicing attack and defense on the pattern.
With practice, you will be able to evade almost any attack, launch your own
attacks, set up a counter strike, or enter to a clinch or takedown with these
footwork techniques. These footwork techniques are the foundation you will
need to build a strong fighting system so study them hard and don’t neglect
their practice.

The Footwork Practice Pattern-Place this pattern on the floor of your

training area with tape. Practice all your footwork techniques on the pattern.
Notice the angles of your shuffle steps, sidesteps, triangle footwork, and body
pivots. Practice combinations of footwork on the pattern and then practice
with a partner to enhance your skills.
Summary-
There are no static stances in a fight. Mobile postures are the best means to
ensure proper attack and defense. The two most effective postures for
fighting are:
1) The boxer’s posture
2) Modified cat posture
Footwork is a critical foundation for an effective fighting system. The
following footwork techniques should be mastered:
1) Shuffle step (forward and backwards)
2) Lunge (forward and backwards)
3) Sidestep (left and right)
4) Body Shift (left and right/90-degrees and 180-degrees)
5) Body pivot
6) Triangle step (Forward and reverse)
 Chapter 3
Hand Weapons and Techniques
After you learn to move well on your feet you can begin to develop your
body’s natural weapons and learn basic striking techniques. In this chapter
we will discuss the natural weapons of the hand and learn the most effective
hand strikes for fighting.
The standard fist is the most widely used hand weapon. Virtually all fighting
arts employ it in some form. The fist is also the most natural way to strike.
Infants will form a fist and swing their hands when angry. Children strike
with a fist on the playground at an early age. It is probably the oldest natural
weapon of the body. Even though striking with a fist is very natural, hand
injuries and broken bones in the hand are quite common during a fight.
Because of this fact, it is very important to learn to form a proper fist and
condition your hand to withstand the punishment of an attack.
To form a proper fist, the fingers must curl in tightly, then the thumb overlaps
the fingers below the second row of knuckles for added support. The fist
should be held loose until just before the moment of impact when it tightens.
The first two knuckles of the hand are the primary striking surface when
punching. The bottom of the fist can be used to deliver hammer fist strikes
and the back of the knuckles can be used for back fist strikes as well. The
knuckles can be conditioned by striking a sandbag, wooden dummy, heavy
bag, or a Japanese makiwara board. Never over condition the hands. Extreme
conditioning can lead to nerve damage and disfigurement. The goal is to
toughen your fist enough to maximize damage to your opponent and
minimize injury to your hand. Do not cause physical injury to yourself.
The Fist-The fist is the most natural weapon of the body. The primary
striking surfaces are the first two knuckles of the hand and the bottom of the
fist shown by the arrows on the illustration to the left. Hitting with the bottom
of the fist is called a Hammer Fist strike.
The open hand strike is probably the second most common natural weapon. It
has many applications which makes it a valuable tool in a fight. You can
chop with the edge of the hand, thrust with the fingers, deliver blows with the
inner ridge of the hand, or use the palm to thrust and slap. You are less likely
to break your hand when striking with an open hand than you are when
striking with a fist. Open hand strikes should be a primary consideration in a
self-defense situation.

The Open Hand-The Open hand strike can be used to jab the opponent’s
eyes or to chop the throat or neck. The palm can be used to strike the chin or
nose. Even the inside of the wrist can be employed to strike or hook a limb.
The phoenix eye strike uses the extended second knuckle of the index finger
to strike pressure points and vital areas. Again, the thumb braces the index
finger and provides support. Being on the receiving end of this attack is quite
painful and once it is felt you will respect its power. One of my martial arts
instructors would punch dime size holes in drywall with this strike. We will
discuss specific targets to attack with the phoenix eye in a later chapter.

The Phoenix Eye -The Phoenix eye strike is executed with the extended
knuckle of the first finger with the hand in a fist. The thumb provides support
for the knuckle. The Phoenix Eye is great for attacking vital areas of the
body.
The final hand weapon we will look at is the tiger’s mouth. This hand
weapon can be used for both offense and defense and is highly effective for
trapping an opponent’s arm or scooping an attacking limb out of the way.
Rotation of the wrist plays a key role in many of the defensive applications of
this technique. The tiger’s mouth can also be used very effectively to execute
certain joint locking techniques.

The Tiger’s Mouth- The Tiger’s Mouth hand weapon is very versatile.
The palm and the inside of the hand can be used to strike the opponent’s
throat and face. The hand shape is also highly effective for scooping away an
attack.
Boxing Hand Techniques
Few people will argue about the effectiveness of western boxing. The
punches are extremely fast and powerful. Let us look at the four primary
boxing strikes and how they are applied. These strikes can be put together
into almost endless combinations of attack. In fact, I will go so far as to say
that if you master the footwork from the previous chapter and these four
strikes, you will be a tough opponent for anyone to defeat. The four
techniques are as follows:
1) The Lead Punch/Jab
2) The Cross
3) The Hook
4) The Uppercut

The Lead Punch/Jab- The Lead punch/jab is a fast strike with your lead
hand that shoots out to the target and back along a straight line. It sets up
other strikes and is executed very quickly without telegraphing the attack.
Stay relaxed and put your whole body behind the blow. The fist rotates
slightly upon impact and the first two knuckles are used as the striking
surface. There is a slight difference between the lead punch and the jab. The
lead punch is a solid blow meant to inflict damage while the jab is more of a
probing strike used to feel out the opponent.

The Lead Punch/Jab

The Cross- The cross comes from the rear hand in a straight line to the
target. It is a power shot used to knock out an opponent. It is normally used in
combination with other strikes such as the lead punch. The fist rotates to a
forty-five-degree angle upon impact, striking with the first two knuckles of
the hand. The best target is usually the chin or temple area but sometimes the
cross is delivered to the body as well. When throwing a cross to the body you
must bend at the waist, be careful of a knee or kick from your opponent as
you execute the strike.

The Cross
The Hook- The hook punch is another power blow that travels in a circular
motion to the target. This is a very deceptive technique that can travel around
an opponent’s guard. Use your hips and shoulder to generate maximum
power for the strike. The hook punch can be thrown from either the lead or
rear hand and is usually used in combination with other strikes. The hook
punch is also a close-range attack that is extremely effective when used to hit
the opponent’s jaw or body. Practice doubling up the hook punch or throwing
multiple hook punches in rapid succession to the opponent’s body when in
close range.

The Hook
The Uppercut- The uppercut strike comes in under the opponent’s guard.
It is often used when your attacker is bent forward. Bend your knees before
the strike and then rise on your toes as the attack is delivered to generate
maximum power. Follow through with the strike like you are trying to punch
the ceiling. Like the hook punch, the uppercut can be executed with both the
lead and rear hand. Your target will usually be under the opponent’s chin, or
the opponent’s face when they are leaning forward.

The Uppercut
When executing the above techniques, keep your elbows in close to your
body to protect your rib cage and your hands up to protect your head. Do not
telegraph your attacks and be sure that straight line strikes return along the
same path that they traveled to the target. Keep moving as you execute your
strikes and put your hips, shoulder, and legs into each blow to generate
power. Practicing on a heavy bag is an excellent way to build power in your
striking techniques. I recommend that you buy a cheap egg timer in the
grocery store. Set the timer for three minutes and strike the heavy bag
continuously with combinations until the timer rings. This will not only
develop power in your strikes, but also increase your endurance.
Once the basic strikes are mastered, you will need to develop good
combinations. Below are the most common boxing combinations you should
master. If you have a training partner, you can practice these combinations
using focus mitts. This allows your partner to move around and hold the mitts
in different positions while you strike. Here are the combinations you should
master:
1) Lead/Jab-Cross
 2) Lead/Jab-Cross-Hook
3) Lead/Jab-Hook-Uppercut
4) Lead/Jab-Uppercut-Cross
5) Hook-Hook-Uppercut
6) Lead/Jab-Lead/Jab-Rear Hook-Uppercut
7) Cross-Uppercut-Rear Hook-Hook
8) Hook-Hook-Rear Hook
9) Lead/Jab-Cross to body-Uppercut
Note: Except for the cross, all strikes are done from the lead hand unless
designated “rear”. These combinations are examples only and do not have to
be followed exactly. Experiment with your own combinations. The term
“double up” means to throw two of the same strike in rapid succession. The
lead/jab and hook are often doubled up.
Martial Arts Hand Techniques
In addition to boxing hand strikes, there are five hand techniques from the
martial arts that are highly effective and should be added to your arsenal.
These strikes should be used in conjunction with the boxing techniques
shown above. They are:
1) The Finger Jab
2) The Back Fist
3) The Tiger’s Mouth Strike
4) The Phoenix Eye Strike
5) The Hammer Fist Strike
The Finger Jab- The finger jab is used to attack the eyes of the
opponent and is extremely effective in a self-defense situation. It shoots
out straight to the target with lightning speed and can be used to intercept
an attacking limb. Because it is aimed at the eyes of your attacker, it does
not require much power to be effective. Speed is much more important
with the finger jab.
 Finger Jab
The Backfist- The backfist strike is another great hand technique taken
from traditional martial arts. The hand is whipped out to the target using
the elbow joint as a fulcrum. The attack is very deceptive because it
originates from the exact position as the lead/jab does. Strike with the first
two knuckles of the hand in a snapping motion. The usual target for this
attack is the opponent’s temple. The backfist is extremely effective when
used in conjunction with an arm grab, executing the strike as you pull the
opponent in.

The Backfist
The Tiger’s Mouth- The Tiger’s mouth strike is a versatile technique that
is often used to attack the opponent’s throat. The inner ridge of the hand is
the striking surface however the thumb can also be used to gouge the eyes.
This attack shoots out in a straight line towards the target. One highly
effective method of attack with the tiger’s mouth strike is to hit the attacker’s
throat and drive their head back into a wall.
 The Tiger’s Mouth
The Phoenix Eye- The phoenix eye strike originates from Chinese kung
fu systems such as the Bak Mei, White Eyebrow style. It is a useful strike for
hitting the opponent’s vital areas like the temple, eyes, or throat. This
technique does require some conditioning of the first knuckle which is used
to strike. I recommend striking a sandbag with the phoenix eye to condition
the knuckle and strengthen the attacking hand.

The Phoenix Eye

The Hammer fist- The Hammer fist strike hits the target with the bottom
of the fist. It is normally executed to the outside with the fist held in a
downward position. The strike can be done inward with the fist up, but it will
have less power. This technique is seen often in traditional karate systems.
The opponent’s jaw, temple, and back of the neck are excellent targets for the
hammer fist.
 The Hammer Fist
You now have nine basic hand striking techniques that are the most effective
for a variety of situations. To give you an idea of how to apply these
techniques in different scenarios, let us look at the below illustrations. In the
first scenario, the attacker grabs your wrist and starts to punch you in the face
(1.). You fire a finger jab strike to his eyes (2.).

The second scenario addresses an attempted choke from your opponent. As

he attempts to grab your throat to choke you, raise your hands (1.) Deliver a
lead punch to the opponent’s face as you grab his arm to prevent the choke
(2.)
Now that you have a good working knowledge of the hand strikes, you
should practice all of them in combinations. Feel free to mix the techniques
up and practice them in any combinations you choose. The below
combinations should become part of your daily practice routine.
1) Finger Jab/Cross
2) Backfist/Cross/Hook
3) Hammer Fist/Cross/Hook
4) Hook/Backfist/Cross/Rear Backfist
5) Finger Jab/Rear Tiger’s Mouth/Uppercut
6) Uppercut/Cross/Hook/Hammer Fist
7) Tiger’s Mouth/Rear Tiger’s Mouth/Hook
8) Backfist/Hook/Cross
9) Double Up Lead Jab/Rear Finger Jab
Summary-
The natural weapons of the hand when properly conditioned, allow you to
inflict the most injury to your opponent. These natural weapons include:
1) The Fist
2) The Open Hand
3) The Phoenix Eye
4) The Tiger’s Mouth
Western Boxing contains some of the most effective hand strikes for fighting.
The four primary boxing hand techniques are:
1) The Lead Punch/Jab
2) The Cross
 3) The Hook
4) The Uppercut
Traditional martial arts also contain extremely effective striking techniques.
The five primary martial arts hand techniques that you must master are:
1) The Finger Jab
2) The Backfist
3) The Tiger’s Mouth Strike
4) The Phoenix Eye Strike
5) The Hammer Fist Strike
Practice all these strikes in combinations.
 Chapter 4
Kicking Skills
Kicking techniques are without a doubt the most powerful striking skills you
can develop. A well-placed kick executed with speed, timing, power, and
focus can quickly end an encounter. In this chapter we will discuss the most
effective kicking techniques and how they work, but first we must discuss
some general rules that are important when using kicks.
It is important to remember when kicking that you want to keep the kicking
leg between you and your opponent. This creates a barrier that prevents the
attacker from just rushing in. Always initiate all your kicks in the same way.
This will keep the opponent guessing and he will not know what type of kick
you are throwing based on the position of your leg. Never kick above the
waist in a real fight. High kicks are great for training, competition, and
developing skill, but they leave you off balance and prone to low attacks.
High kicks also take longer to execute than their low line counterparts. These
factors make low power kicks to the opponent’s legs and groin your best
option in a self-defense situation.
The Lead Leg Theory is a very important concept in kicking. This theory
states that the lead leg should be used for about ninety percent of your
kicking attacks. Because the lead leg is closer to your opponent, it can be
used quicker and is less telegraphed. With constant practice, you will develop
strong power in your lead leg kicking techniques. Kicks thrown with the rear
leg will still have slightly more power but will be slower and easier for the
opponent to defend against. There are two kicks however, that will be much
more effective when thrown from the rear leg. These two kicks are the Thai
Kick and the Cross Kick.
Jumping kicks and spinning kicks are extremely risky and should not be used
in a real self- defense situation. Spinning kicks involve turning your back to
the opponent for a moment which leaves you vulnerable to strikes and
chokes. Jumping kicks require too much energy to execute and because both
feet leave the ground, you are likely to lose your balance or have your feet
swept out from under you. In chapter one, I told the story of how I was
choked unconscious by one of my instructors when I tried to use my flashy
kicks against him during a sparring match. I know these techniques are fun to
practice, but I recommend that you leave them in the training hall.
Natural Weapons of the Foot
Before we look at specific kicking techniques, let’s look at the natural
weapons of the foot that are used when kicking. It is important to consider
that in the vast majority of situations you will be wearing shoes. Although the
bare foot has natural weapons, a shoe protects the foot from injury and
provides a harder surface to strike with. You should practice kicking with
both shoes and bare feet when you train. When kicking with a bare foot you
can strike with the heel, outer edge, instep, bottom, and ball of the foot. When
wearing shoes, a kick can be delivered with the toe, heel, edge, instep, and
bottom of the foot. The type of shoe you are wearing will make a big
difference in the effectiveness of the attack. A steel toed boot will obviously
cause more damage than a tennis shoe. The shin is also a highly effective
striking surface to use for certain kicks.

Kicking Techniques
There are six kicks that are highly effective for fighting. Like hand
techniques, they can be used in a variety of combinations and should be
added to the hand techniques learned in the previous chapter. The six kicks
we will discuss are:
1) The Front Kick
2) The Side Kick
3) The Roundhouse Kick
4) The Thai Round Kick
 5) The Hook Kick
6) The Cross Kick
Some of these kicks can be used both offensively and defensively. A side
kick thrown to an attacker’s midsection will stop a punch he is preparing to
throw due to the leg being longer than his arm. The cross kick and low side
kick are often used to stop an opponent’s kick by jamming his leg before the
kick is fully extended. As a rule, you should use your legs to defend against
low attacks and not your hands. Lowering your hands to block a low kick will
leave your head open to a strike. The good thing about low line kicks is that it
enables you to use hand techniques simultaneously with your kicks. This is
normally accomplished by grabbing the opponent’s arm and pulling him in as
you kick his legs and strike his face with your free hand. You can easily
double the power of your blows by pulling the opponent into the attack. Now
let’s look at each kick in detail.
The Front Kick- The front kick is a rapid-fire strike used to attack the
groin, or to knock an attacker back. You can use the heel, instep, or ball of
the foot as your striking surface depending on your chosen target. The front
kick travels in a straight line to the target and uses the hips to generate power.
The kick can be snapped to cause damage or thrust out to push the opponent
back. To execute the kick, raise the knee up and then extend the foot straight
out to the target. Remember to keep your hands up as you kick.

Front Kick
The Roundhouse Kick- The roundhouse kick is normally done with the
lead leg and gets its power from the hips combined with a snap of the leg. It
travels in an inward arc to the target. Keep the kick below the waist in a real
situation. Use the ball of the foot, the shin, or instep as your striking surface.
If you are wearing proper shoes, the tip of the toe may be used to strike. To
execute the roundhouse kick, lift the knee up towards the target and then snap
the foot out in an arc to strike the opponent.

Roundhouse Kick
Example of Pulling the Opponent into The Roundhouse Kick -
Using the principle of pulling your opponent into the strike, you grab the
attacker’s arm and pull him forward forcefully as you execute a roundhouse
kick to his midsection. By pulling the opponent into your attacks, you can
easily double the power of your strikes.
 Pulling the Opponent into The Roundhouse Kick
The Side Kick- The side kick is a powerful attack that travels in a straight
line to the target. The hips and footwork play a vital role in giving this kick
its full power. You may strike the target with the heel, edge of the foot, or the
bottom of the foot. The opponent’s knees and rib cage make excellent targets
for this kick. When combined with the lunge footwork, the side kick can
knock an opponent down and easily break ribs. The side kick is also a
valuable tool for defense and can be used to stop an opponent’s attack
midstream.

The Side Kick

The Thai Kick- The Thai round kick is the most powerful kick next to the
side kick. It is used to destroy the opponent’s legs and is always thrown to the
knee or thigh of the opponent. Unlike the other kicks we have discussed, the
Thai round kick does not snap back or retract from the target. Instead it slams
through the target upon impact. If you miss the target when executing this
kick, you will spin 360 degrees, back to your original fighting posture. The
Thai Round kick is normally executed with the rear leg for extreme power. It
is often doubled up and may be thrown from the lead leg after a quick switch
of the feet for added power. The striking surface is always the lower shin. To
execute this kick, swing the rear leg around with the knee just slightly bent.
Slam the leg into the target. This kick is extremely effective when used in
combination with the boxing hand techniques.

Thai Round Kick

The Hook Kick- The hook kick is a jabbing attack that is used to set up
other strikes. It follows the opposite path to the target as the roundhouse kick.
This kick should be chambered just like the side kick and roundhouse kick to
prevent the opponent from knowing which kick you will throw. Strike with
the heel when using the hook kick and aim for the inner thigh, groin, and
knee. It will take some practice in order to develop good power with this
kick. I recommend practicing all the kicks on a kicking shield or a heavy
back.
 The Hook Kick
The Cross Kick- The cross kick is a very deceptive technique that can be
used for both attack and defense. Its close-range structure allows for the use
of hand techniques along with the kick. The cross kick is executed with the
rear leg and it stomps or rakes the opponent’s knee or shin. Use the inside of
the foot or the heel as the striking surface. The cross kick is a great tool for
stopping an attacker’s front kick or side kick. In a grappling situation, the
cross kick can be used to buckle an opponent’s leg and take them to the
ground. To execute the cross kick, simply raise your rear leg up and kick
forward, across your lead leg to the target.

The Cross Kick

Training your body to properly execute these kicks will not be easy. You
must spend a lot of time kicking a heavy bag to develop power. Slow kicks
can be done in the air to work on proper form and to build leg strength. Avoid
kicking hard in the air as this can injure your knee joints. Your footwork,
hand techniques, and kicks should all be mixed in combinations when you
train. Strive to be a well-balanced fighter, and do not rely too heavily on
kicks or hand strikes alone. In the following chapters we will add additional
skills to your repertoire.
Summary-
When properly applied, kicking techniques can be your most powerful
weapon. There are several rules that will make your kicking style highly
effective:
1) Keep your leg between you and your opponent for a barrier when
kicking
2) Chamber the kicking leg the same way for all kicks to disguise your
attack
3) Utilize the Lead Leg Theory which states that ninety percent of kicks
should be done with the lead leg
4) Keep your kicks below the waist in a real encounter
5) Always keep your hands up while kicking
6) Avoid jumping and spinning kicks that jeopardize your balance and
expose your back
7) Practice kicking in combination with hand techniques
8) At close range, kicks and hand strikes can be executed simultaneously
9) Pulling an opponent into your strikes can double your power
There are six primary kicking techniques which are proven effective for
fighting. These kicks are:
1) The Front Kick
2) The Roundhouse Kick
3) The Side Kick
4) The Thai Round Kick
5) The Hook Kick
6) The Cross Kick
 Chapter 5
Methods of Defense
There are several factors involved in good defense. Up to this point we have
focused on methods of attack because these techniques are easier to learn
and, in most cases, the best defense is a good offense. Always keep your
enemy on the defense by attacking ferociously, however there will be times
when you are caught off guard and must react defensively. Methods of
defense can be classified into five categories which are:
1) Blocking
2) Parrying
3) Limb Destruction
4) Jamming or Checking
5) Evasion
Blocking- Blocking is the most common but least effective method of
defense. Most martial arts systems today teach blocking as the primary option
when attacked. The truth is that a block is slow and uses force against force
which could injure the defender as well as the attacker. Textbook blocks are
exceedingly difficult to execute in a real situation when strikes are coming in
at you fast. If you have ever attended a karate tournament you probably saw
some very pretty blocking techniques during the form competition, but did
you notice how these blocks vanished and quick parries took their place in
the sparring competition? The reality is that most of the blocking techniques
found in traditional martial arts are not blocking techniques at all, but that is a
discussion for another chapter. There is a time and place to use blocking
techniques, but when possible, you should use other methods of defense.
Blocking-As the opponent (B) punches, the defender (A) blocks inward
with his arm to deflect the attack. Blocks may work sometimes, but they are
often too slow against rapid combinations. Avoid blocking except as a last
resort.
Parrying- The Parry is a simple and fast movement used to deflect an
attack. Parries are a natural body reaction, so they are easy to learn and
execute. Attacks can be redirected inward, outward, up, or down with an
open hand or arm. A parry is often executed at the same time as a counter
strike thus combining attack and defense into one fluid movement that saves
time and energy. Do not overextend your arm or reach for the attacking limb
when parrying. This will open you up to another strike and bring your body
off balance. Parries are also the core of trapping an opponent’s limbs which
will be discussed in a later chapter.

Parry-The defender (A) parries an attack to the inside with his palm. Parries
are quick and effective. You may parry to the inside, outside, high, or low.
Don’t overextend your arm when you parry. Use just enough motion to
deflect the strike.
Limb Destruction- Limb destruction is a highly effective method of
dealing with an opponent’s attack. It is a prime example of how a good
offense is the best defense. When an opponent attacks, you attack his striking
limb with a fist, elbow, or knee. The goal is to damage his attacking limb and
create a psychological barrier in his mind which prevents him from launching
his attacks full force for fear of injury. The elbows are most often used for
limb destruction and in many cases, the defender just slightly adjusts his body
position to allow the attacker’s limb to run into the elbow. An opponent will
think twice before kicking again after their leg has run into a knee or elbow.

Limb Destruction-As the attacker (B) throws a front kick, the defender (A)
uses a downward elbow strike to hit the attacking leg. Your goal when using
a limb destruction defense is to damage the opponent’s attacking limb and
then counter strike. The attacker will be reluctant to attack if every strike he
throws results in damage to his arms and legs.
Jamming or Checking- Jamming or checking an attack means to stop
the attack immediately as it is starting before it can be thrown. The hand can
be used to check the shoulder at close range to prevent a punch from being
thrown. The low side kick or front kick can stop most kicks before they get
started. The key to this method of defense is being able to read the
opponent’s body movement and see when an attack is coming. Therefore,
you must avoid telegraphing your intentions when you attack. Jamming and
checking an opponent’s attack takes a lot of practice but once mastered, it is a
valuable tool to have for defense.
Jamming and Checking-As the attacker (B) starts to throw a cross, the
defender (A) jams the attack with a side kick to the midsection. Jamming and
checking the opponent’s movements will stop a strike in its tracks before it
can be fully executed. In this case, because the leg is longer than the arm, the
attack is stopped.

Jamming and Checking (Example 2)- In this example, the attacker

starts to throw a front kick, but the defender quickly stops the front kick with
a low side kick.
Evasion- The last form of defense is evasion. Evasion is the art of not being
hit through superior mobility. It requires a lot of practice and skill to use
effectively and is considered to be the highest level of defense. When evading
an attack, you are not using an arm or leg to block or parry. All your limbs
remain available to counter strike the opponent. To use evasion, simply move
your body out of the line of attack so that the opponent’s strike misses you.
Evasion consists of movement such as bobbing, weaving, slipping, rolling,
tracing, and ducking. Bobbing and weaving can be described as moving your
upper body from side to side and circular while in the boxer’s posture to
avoid a strike. A moving target is much harder to hit than a stationary one. To
perform a slip against a punch to the face, simply move your head slightly to
allow the punch to pass by then counter strike. Ducking is dropping your
body low to avoid a high attack. Duck by bending the knees and keeping your
hands up. Do not bend at the waist or drop the hands. Rolling is highly
effective against body shots. From the boxer’s posture, use your elbows and
rotate your torso to deflect incoming attacks. Tracing is moving just out of
range of an attack, so it misses and then following the attacking limb back to
the opponent with an attack of your own.

Evasion-Evasion is the highest level of defense. When you evade, all your
limbs are available to counterattack. Evasion consists of bobbing, weaving,
slipping, ducking, rolling, and tracing. In this example, the opponent throws a
lead punch and the defender simply slips the punch by bending at the waist to
avoid the attack.
As you may have guessed, good footwork is essential for evasion to work
effectively. Your body must remain relaxed, loose, and in constant motion.
Don’t dance around and waste energy though. Move just enough to avoid
attacks and still be in range to counter strike. Evasion will seem very
advanced at first, but after constant practice you will be able to employ it
with little to no thought. It is well worth your effort to master evasion. The
opponent will become frustrated and confused when every strike he throws at
you misses the target and you nail him with counter strikes. The best way to
practice your evasion skills is to have a training partner strike at you slowly
at first while you evade. Gradually, your partner increases the speed of the
attacks until you are eventually evading rapid attacks.
The Centerline Principle- The Centerline is an imaginary line that runs
from the crown of the head down through the middle of your torso to the
floor. Most of your vital areas including the eyes, throat, groin, and solar
plexus are on your centerline so it must always be protected. Be sure to guard
your centerline as you move, defend, and launch attacks. You should also
look for opportunities to attack the opponent’s centerline when it’s left
exposed. The boxer’s posture will provide the best protection of your
centerline against attacks to your vital targets.
The Zoning Principle of Defense- The zoning principle is a method of
rapidly identifying which area of your body an opponent’s attack is targeting.
This allows you to quickly respond with the appropriate defensive technique.
In addition to the centerline principle, you have five zones of attack.
Basically, any strike your opponent throws at you will come from one of
these five zones. For example, a straight punch is traveling on zone five, a
roundhouse kick to your right temple is travelling on zone one, and a low
Thai round kick to your left leg is traveling on zone four. Understanding the
zoning principle allows you to quickly identify which zone an attack is
coming from and respond appropriately.
 The Zoning Principle
Once you understand the Zoning Principle, it becomes easy to defend that
zone with just enough movement to stop the attack, maintain balance, and
remain in position for a counterattack. Obviously, any of the defensive
techniques can be utilized to defend your centerline and the zones, but let’s
look at how parries can be applied.

As seen in the above illustration, simple hand parries can defend all the zones
and your centerline. By keeping the arms and elbows in close to your body,
you can deflect mid-level strikes by simply rotating your waist towards the
attack. A high outside parry will defend zone one while a middle inside parry
covers the centerline. A low outside parry protects zone four and a high parry
covers zone two. Finally, a low inside parry can protect against zone three
attacks. Keep in mind that these are just a few examples of how you can
defend the centerline and zones. Use your imagination, and experiment with
the other defensive skills.
Defending against low line kicks- Low line kicks should be blocked
with the legs and not the hands. If you lower your hands to stop a low line
kick, you leave your head and upper body open to attack. It will also take you
longer to counter strike with your hands if you must lift them back up after
defending against a low kick. To block a low round kick, raise your leg on
the side that the kick is coming in on and deflect the kick with the outside of
your shin. The leg can also be used to deflect inward against a low front kick.
Absorbing kicks with your leg and shin will hurt. It is a good idea to
condition your legs by kicking a heavy bag. You can also roll your shins with
a coke bottle or stick to build a level of pain tolerance. After a while of
conditioning the shins, it is possible to break broom sticks and even wooden
baseball bats with your kicks. We discussed how jamming can be used to
stop low line kicks as well.

Defending Against Low Kicks-Use your legs to defend against low

kicks. If you use your hands, you will expose your head to attack. In the
example, the attacker (B) throws a low round kick at the defender’s (A) leg.
The defender raises his leg and deflects the kick with the outside of his shin.
He is poised to deliver a finger jab to the attacker’s eyes.

Defending Against Mid-Level Kicks-Sometimes the opponent will

kick to your midsection between the low line and upper body. In these cases,
you should use both your leg and hands to defend. In the example the attacker
(B) throws a mid-level roundhouse kick. The defender (A) uses an upward
knee strike with a downward parry to execute a limb destruction to the
opponent’s leg.
Kicks to your midsection will be difficult to block with a leg alone. If the
attacker chambers all his kicks in the same manner, you may not know if the
kick will be thrown low or high. In these cases, you should use both your leg
and your arm to defend. High kicks can be defended against in the same
manner as other strikes but be aware that kicks are more powerful and can
break through your defense if it isn’t strong. When the opponent throws high
kicks, look for opportunities to off balance him and attack his support leg.

Defending Against High Kicks-If the opponent kicks high, be prepared

and look for opportunities to off balance him. Attacking his support leg is a
good option. In the example, the attacker (A) throws a high roundhouse kick.
The defender (B) uses his left arm to defend and his right arm to attack the
kicking leg with an elbow.
When possible, combine attack and defense into one fluid motion. An
example of this is to parry a punch down as you finger jab the opponent’s
eyes. Never defend more than twice without counter attacking. It is extremely
dangerous to fight with a defensive attitude. Your goal should be to end the
fight as quickly as possible before the attacker causes you harm. As was
stated before, the best defense is a good offense. Even with an offensive mind
set, you must train defensive skills to the highest level.
Summary-
You should always try to keep the opponent on the defense, but you must
have good defensive skills to protect yourself. The five methods of defense
are:
1) Blocking
2) Parrying
3) Limb Destruction
4) Jamming or Checking
5) Evasion
Blocking is the least effective method of defense, and evasion is the highest
level. Parrying an attack is the most natural and common method of defense.
The Centerline of your body should always be protected because many of
your vital areas are located along your centerline. By utilizing the Zoning
Principle, you will be able to quickly identify where an opponent’s attack is
headed and respond appropriately. It is best to defend against low kicks with
your legs. This prevents you from exposing your head by lowering your arms
to block. Kicking attacks to your mid-section may require you to use both an
arm and a leg to properly defend. Remember that defensive skills are
extremely important, but you must never defend more than twice without
counter attacking. The best defense is a good offense!
 Chapter 6
Elbow Boxing, Knees, Headbutt, and Clinch
In 1987, I started to learn a unique system of elbow fighting from one of my
martial arts instructors named Vic Butler. The system is called Elbow Boxing
because it is remarkably similar to western boxing, except the elbows are
used for striking instead of the fists. Elbow Boxing is an excellent system for
close range fighting and fighting from the clinch. I was told by my instructor
that elbow boxing was developed by prison inmates for self-defense in close
quarter spaces such as a prison cell. In this chapter we will cover the essential
elements of elbow boxing and discuss the use of knee strikes in close range
fighting. We will also look at head butting techniques.
Elbow Boxing
Elbow boxing strikes should always be thrown in rapid combinations which
makes them almost impossible to counter. The striking surface used for most
elbow strikes is the spot right below the point of the elbow. A well-placed
elbow strike with this area will open cuts, break bones, and cause knock outs.
The best time to use elbow boxing is when you are in a clinch or in extreme
close range where most kicks and hand strikes are ineffective.
Elbow boxing techniques are executed from the boxer’s posture with your
hands up and fists clenched loosely. As you advance, you may open your
hands to assist in trapping, and parrying, but in the beginning, you should
keep your fists closed to prevent injuries from occurring to your hands during
an exchange of elbow strikes. There are nine offensive techniques and two
defensive techniques in elbow boxing. These techniques are:
Offensive Techniques-
1) The Lead Elbow
2) The Elbow Cross
3) The Round Elbow
4) The Hooking Elbow
5) The Upward Elbow
6) The Downward Elbow
7) The Drop Elbow to The Knee
 8) The Thai Diagonal Elbow
9) The Raking Elbow
Defensive Techniques-
1) The Elbow Deflection (Inside and Outside)
2) The Elbow Limb Destruction
Except for the lead elbow and the elbow cross, all the techniques can be
executed with the lead or rear arm. These techniques can also be doubled up
and should be combined with your other forms of attack and defense. Elbow
boxing is extremely effective, but it is not meant to stand alone. Now we will
look at each technique in more detail.
The Lead Elbow- The lead elbow travels in a straight line to the target
and is used to attack the head, body, or limbs of your opponent. It is often
used to create openings and set up other attacks. The lead elbow is a rapid
strike that is the equivalent of a boxer’s lead punch or jab. From the boxer’s
posture, shoot the elbow straight out with the arm held in an almost vertical
position.

The Lead Elbow

The Elbow Cross- The elbow cross is thrown with your rear arm and is
almost always used in combination with other strikes. Because it comes from
the rear, it generates a lot of power. From the boxer’s posture, shoot the rear
elbow straight forward. Use your hips and waist to generate power. Be sure to
return quickly to the boxer’s posture after the strike.
 The Elbow Cross
The Round Elbow- The round elbow is a powerful attack that travels in a
circular motion to the target. It is often doubled up on and is the elbow
boxer’s version of the hook punch. The primary targets for this strike are the
head and the opponent’s arms. This technique is often used to knock down
the opponent’s guard so that a follow up strike can get in.

The Round Elbow

The Hooking Elbow- The hooking elbow strike is the opposite of the
round elbow strike. The two are often used in combination because they flow
together well. The hooking elbow is a highly effective strike to use after you
have slipped an attacker’s punch to the outside. To execute the hooking
elbow from the boxer’s position, bring the elbow straight up and then hook it
to the outside across your body. Targets include the attacker’s head and arms.

The Hooking Elbow

The Upward elbow- The upward elbow strike is the elbow boxer’s
equivalent of the uppercut in boxing. It comes from under the opponent’s
guard and strikes the chin. From a boxer’s posture, bend your knees and
shoot the elbow straight up as you rise under the target. The hand of your
striking elbow will end up behind your head as you execute the strike. Aim
for the ceiling with this technique, and slightly rise up on your toes as you
strike to generate maximum power.
 The Upward Elbow
The Downward Elbow- The downward elbow strike is best used to the
back of the neck or head when the opponent is bent over. It is also highly
effective as a limb destruction technique and to stop knees in a clinch.

The Downward Elbow

The Drop Elbow to the Knee- The drop elbow strike to the knee is
seldom used because it can leave you in a vulnerable position, but if the
opportunity to use it occurs, it can be extremely effective. To execute the
drop elbow attack, duck under an opponent’s strike and elbow his knee or
thigh. The opponent’s ankle can be grabbed with the other hand to lever him
into a takedown with the strike. It is extremely important to recover quickly
from this attack. When properly applied, this is an incredibly painful strike
that can temporarily cripple the attacker.
The Thai Diagonal Elbow- The Thai diagonal elbow is a very powerful
strike that travels in a forty-five-degree angle to the target. It is very
deceptive and can be thrown over the top of the opponent’s guard. To execute
the strike from a boxer’s posture, bring the elbow out to the side and then
down sharply at a forty-five-degree angle.

The Thai Diagonal Elbow

The Raking Elbow- The raking elbow attack is used to fluster and
confuse the enemy as well as cause cuts and tissue damage. It is highly
effective when used in a clinch. With your arm held straight, the elbow is
raked inward or outward across the opponent’s face.
 The Raking Elbow
The Elbow Flurry- The elbow flurry is an example of how you can
combine the elbow boxing techniques into a devastating combination of rapid
attacks. Any series of rapid attacks can be called a flurry, after you learn this
example, experiment with creating your own combination flurries. This flurry
begins by slipping the opponent’s punch to the inside and executing a lead
elbow strike to his solar plexus (A). Follow with a rear upward elbow to his
chin (B) and a round elbow strike to his jaw (C). Finish the opponent off with
a Thai diagonal elbow strike to his temple (D). The elbow flurry should take
less than a second to execute.
 The Elbow Flurry
Defensive elbow techniques- In the previous chapter we discussed how
the elbows can be used for defense. The two primary defensive techniques in
elbow boxing are the elbow deflection and the elbow limb destruction.
Remember that when using your elbows to fight at close range your goal is to
damage and destroy anything that gets in your path. Using your elbows to
deflect an attack or smash a limb achieves that goal.
Knee Attacks
In addition to elbow boxing, you should also be familiar with knee strikes. At
close range, you can strike your opponent in the legs, groin, and body with
your knees. Pulling the adversaries head down into a knee strike is also
extremely effective. Two very common knee attacks are an upward knee
strike to the groin when the opponent bear hugs you from the front and
pulling the opponent’s head down into a knee strike from a clinch. By using a
neck lever clinch, you can twist the opponent’s head down into powerful
knee strikes. To execute a neck lever clinch, grab your opponent around the
neck with both arms. Cup the back of his head with your hands as you
squeeze your forearms together. By shifting to the side and twisting with your
arms, you can lever the opponent down into a knee strike. Knee strikes to the
nerve that runs along the outside of the thigh are also extremely painful and
can be used when your hands are occupied with a lock or trap. Remember to
use your hips to generate power when executing knee strikes.
The Front Knee- The front knee strike shoots straight up into the target.
Often the hands are used to pull the enemy in to the strike. Target areas
include the groin, head, legs, thigh, and body.
The Round Knee- The round knee strike travels in a half circle to the
target. Power is gained by using the hips and sometimes by using a slight hop
when the strike is thrown. The round knee is very effective after a sidestep,
when the opponent has over committed and come in deep. You may also grab
the opponent by the arm, or clothing to pull him into the knee attack.
These knee strikes along with your elbow boxing will help make you a much
better fighter at close range. After these skills are mastered and added to your
footwork, striking, and kicking skills, you will have a well-rounded system of
fighting. To close out this chapter, we will add a few more components to
your close-range fighting arsenal by discussing how to properly headbutt,
foot stomp and clinch.

The Front Knee Strike and The Round Knee Strike

Headbutt, Foot Stomp, and Clinch
The Headbutt- The headbutt is often overlooked by martial artists because
they believe they will injure themselves by using it during an attack. The fact
is, a properly applied headbutt is very safe for the defender and can cause
serious damage to the attacker. The primary rule for using a headbutt is to
strike with the top of the head against the opponent’s soft targets such as his
face or jaw. In very close range, you can rise up from underneath the
opponent and use the top of your head to hit the enemy’s chin. Never
headbutt with your forehead, or the side of your head as you could end up
knocking yourself out. One use for the headbutt that is often overlooked is to
use your head to strike an opponent’s limb if your hands are occupied with a
lock or hold. For example, you have the opponent’s wrist with one hand and
are grabbing his shoulder with the other to apply an arm lock. As the
opponent resists the lock, you strike his elbow joint with the top of your head
to damage the elbow and gain the arm lock.
The Foot Stomp- The foot stomp is a simple technique that is self-
explanatory. When in the clinch or close range, use your heel to stomp down
on the top of the attacker’s foot. The foot stomp will not end a fight, but it
can break bones in the opponent foot which will limit his mobility and disrupt
his movement while you finish him with other blows.
The Clinch- The clinch is extremely important in close range fighting.
Basically, anytime you close the distance with your opponent and end up in a
standing battle for dominance, you are in a type of clinch. Normally a clinch
consists of grabbing the opponent around the neck with one arm and securing
one of his arms with your other arm. Keep your head in close to the attacker’s
body to avoid getting hit as you execute strikes and either look for a
takedown or get back out to a longer range. One of the most effective clinch
techniques is the neck lever clinch. To execute the neck lever clinch, grab
your opponent around the neck with both hands and cup your hands together
behind his head. Squeeze your forearms together to put pressure on his neck
and use your cupped hands to control his head (A). From this position you
can twist the opponent to the side and into a knee strike (B). You can also use
your elbows to stop any knee attacks the opponent might throw. At any time,
you can release your grip with one arm and execute a swift elbow strike.
Then immediately return to the clinch. Remember that the clinch is a
temporary position that you will momentarily be in before you take the
opponent to the ground or break away from him.

Neck Lever Clinch

Summary-
Elbow boxing is highly effective system for close range fighting that
originated in the prison system. There are nine offensive elbow boxing
techniques and two defensive techniques. They are:
Offensive-
1) The Lead Elbow
2) The Elbow Cross
3) The Round Elbow
4) The Hooking Elbow
5) The Upward Elbow
6) The Downward Elbow
7) The Drop Elbow to the Knee
8) The Thai Diagonal Elbow
9) The Raking Elbow
Defensive-
 1) The Elbow Deflection (Inside and Outside)
2) The Elbow Limb Destruction
A flurry is a fast combination of several techniques. Elbow boxing flurries
should be practiced and mixed in with other striking techniques. There are
two basic knee strikes that are best for close range fighting. These are:
1) The Front Knee Strike
2) The Round Knee Strike
In addition to elbow and knee strikes, headbutts, and foot stomps are also
extremely effective techniques for close range. When moving between
striking range and grappling range you will often end up in a clinch with your
opponent. The neck lever clinch provides great control over your attacker and
the ability to execute devastating knee strikes to his head.
 Chapter 7

Proper Breathing Skills

You now have a solid foundation of striking, kicking, defensive and close-
range techniques under your belt, but before we put those techniques into
motion, we must ensure that you are trained in the proper way to breath while
fighting. Without the proper knowledge of how to use breathing, you will tire
easily, lack power, and risk injury. In this chapter, we will discuss the best
methods for breathing while fighting and look at an incredible breathing
exercise that offers tremendous benefits beyond combat.
During a real encounter, your heart will be racing, and you will naturally start
breathing faster. When this happens, you will lose all fine motor skills. This
means that you will only be able to execute the simplest techniques. It is also
very common to get tunnel vision where you focus on only one threat and are
oblivious to others. In some cases, you may freeze and not react at all to the
threat. All these occurrences are completely natural, but they can impact your
ability to successfully respond under stress. Proper breathing can help control
and reduce these natural occurrences. Let’s start with several rules of
breathing during a fight.
Rule #1- Never hold your breath
The first rule is to never hold your breath. It is quite common for people to
hold their breath when they punch or kick. This will wear you out quickly.
Once you are out of breath and winded, your skill level drops about eighty
percent. You also telegraph your intentions when you stop breathing right
before a strike. Always maintain a steady breathing pattern when you train to
prepare you for a real encounter. How you train is how you will fight.
Rule #2- Exhale when you strike
The second rule is to always breath out when striking. Every time you attack,
you should exhale as you strike. This adds power to your attack and prevents
injury if you are hit by a surprise attack from your opponent. Even when
throwing combinations, exhale with short breaths on every strike you throw,
then immediately inhale after the combination. It is ok to make a noise as you
exhale such as, “oose”, or “shuht”. Train to get the right rhythm between
your strikes and breathing when you hit the heavy bag or makiwara.
Rule #3- Exhale when you get hit
Rule number three is to always exhale when you are hit by your opponent.
This helps brace your body and internal organs for the strike. To test this rule,
have a friend drop a medicine ball on your stomach first as you inhale and
again as you exhale. You will immediately see that when you exhale, the
medicine ball has less of an impact as it hits you. Most people remember the
story of the famous magician Harry Houdini who would challenge people to
hit him in the stomach. None of the strikes hurt Houdini until the fateful night
that he was struck by a fan while he was sleeping. Houdini died from
complications related to the blow because he was unprepared and could not
exhale as he was hit.
Rule #4- Breath in through the nose and out through the mouth
When you become stressed and are preparing to fight you must slow your
breathing. Breath in through the nose and fill your lungs from the bottom.
Don’t force your breathing, just let it happen naturally. This will calm you
and slow your heart rate. When you exhale, contract your diaphragm, and
expel the air from your mouth. You should not open the mouth wide when
expelling the air, keep your teeth touching and only open the mouth enough
to breath out. As you breath out, the lips form a position like giving someone
a kiss. Always keep the teeth slightly clinched to prevent your jaw from
being broken by an opponent’s strike.
Rule #5- Use a spirit yell (Kiai)
The final rule is to use a spirit yell when you deliver a power shot to your
opponent. The spirit yell is a battle cry called a kiai in traditional karate. It is
used when delivering a powerful attack to the opponent. The spirit yell serves
several purposes. First, it can startle the opponent and catch him off guard.
Second, it can confuse the opponent and add power to your blow. The spirit
yell also gives you confidence and killer instinct when you launch your
attack. To visualize the spirit yell, think of a famous battle scene where the
soldiers gave a blood curdling scream as they charged the enemy line.
Exactly what you yell is up to you, but in the traditional arts it is typically a,
“Hai-yaaa!”
The Heaven’s Breath Breathing Exercise
We will close out this chapter by looking at an amazing breathing exercise
that will not only help you in fighting but also benefit you in everyday life. In
over forty years of studying martial arts, the best breathing exercise I ever
learned was the Heaven’s Breath. I first learned Heaven’s Breath while
studying the Japanese art of Aikido. Although I no longer practice most of
the techniques I learned in Aikido, I continue to do Heaven’s Breath daily
because of the many benefits. By practicing Heaven’s Breath, you will calm
your mind, increase your health, relieve stress, lower your heart rate, improve
focus, reduce frustration, and feel your body’s natural energy. To do the
Heaven’s Breath, stand with your feet shoulders width apart and your arms at
your side. Calm the mind and relax (A). Next, raise your hands straight up
towards the sky as you inhale (B). Let the air fill your lungs as you look at
the sky and absorb nature’s energy. Exhale as you lower the arms out to the
side and down (C). Complete the exhale with your arms crossed in front of
your lower stomach (D). Inhale again as you separate the arms and open them
out to shoulder’s width at your sides (E). Exhale as you bring the arms back
together to the front of your lower stomach (F). Hold this position for a few
moments and relax. Feel the energy between your hands. Repeat the entire
exercise as often as you like.
 The Heaven’s Breath
Summary-
Proper breathing is extremely important when fighting. The following rules
of breathing should always be followed:
1) Never hold your breath
2) Exhale when you strike
3) Exhale when you get hit
4) Breath in through the nose and out through the mouth
5) Use the Spirit Yell (kiai)
The Heaven’s Breath exercise is a tremendous breathing technique that will
slow your heart rate, clear your mind, reduce stress, and enhance your
energy.
 Chapter 8
Application of Techniques
A good fighter always attacks in combinations of techniques because a single
strike seldom ends an encounter. In this chapter we will combine the skills
learned in the previous chapters to form effective fighting combinations. You
should understand that these combinations are not set in stone. Once again, I
urge you to use your imagination and play with the techniques presented
here. Change the techniques to fit your personal style and abilities but be sure
to keep intact the basic principles that make these combinations effective.
The Cause and Effect Principle
Most of the combinations presented in this chapter follow a concept known
as the cause and effect principle. This means that one strike sets up another
strike by causing the opponent to react in a certain manner. For example, a
finger jab to the eyes will instinctively make the opponent lean his upper
body back to avoid the blow. By leaning his upper body back, his lower body
becomes exposed to a front kick to his groin. Another example would be to
fake a low attack which causes the opponent to lower his hands to block, then
follow with a high attack to his unguarded upper body. If you include this
principle when working out combinations, your techniques will have a much
greater chance of success.
The One for One Principle
Another important concept to consider when working on the practical
application of fighting techniques is the One for One Principle. This principle
means that if you and your opponent are equal in speed and skill, then you
will only be able to execute one movement for every movement the opponent
throws. In many martial arts books, you see examples of fighting techniques
where the attacker throws a punch and the defender proceeds to execute a
block followed by six or seven strikes. In reality, after the initial block the
attacker would be starting to execute another attack. Because he is equal in
speed and skill, there is no time for the defender to execute six or seven
follow up techniques. This principle means that in order to execute more than
one attack to your opponent’s one attack, you must put him on the defense,
zone to a position to prevent additional strikes from the opponent, or stun the
opponent so his response is slowed down. Without these options, you will be
trading one for one strikes with the opponent.
The most important aspect of good fighting combinations is that they must be
realistic. In a real-life encounter, there is no room for fancy techniques or
flashy high kicks. You must use good, solid, effective basics to stop the
attacker and survive. As you study the combinations on the following pages,
you may feel that some of the techniques are dirty fighting or overkill.
Remember that the attacker will probably kill or seriously injure you if he
can. This is no game and you must be prepared to do whatever is necessary to
stop the threat as quickly as possible. With that thought in mind, let’s move
on to the fighting applications.
Technique #1- As the opponent advances towards you, execute a quick
finger jab to the eyes (A) followed by a front kick to his groin (B). Continue
with additional strikes as needed.

Technique #2- As your opponent approaches, raise your lead hand quickly
and fake a high attack (A) then as the opponent reacts to the feint,
immediately lunge in and side kick his midsection (B). This is a very
powerful attack.
Technique #3- Execute a low side kick to the opponent’s knee (A). As
your foot comes down, throw a lead punch (B) followed by a cross (C). Use
your hips and body weight in these strikes for maximum power. The initial
low side kick can be used to stop an opponent’s kick before it gets started.
Technique #4- This technique is a combination I call the Kenpo flurry
because it is seen in Kenpo Karate. The opponent’s right punch is blocked
with a knife hand strike to his arm (A) followed by a knife hand chop to his
neck (B). A rear palm thrust is then delivered to his nose (C) and he is
finished off with an uppercut to his solar plexus.
Technique #5- As the opponent throws a punch, you slip to the outside and
use an elbow destruction defense to his arm (A). Slide down his arm with
your hand to grab his wrist as you execute an elbow strike to his arm (B). In
many cases you can lever him to the ground from this position with an arm
bar, but in this case, he is too strong. Finish with a Thai diagonal elbow to his
temple (C). It is important to note that you will never be able to catch an
opponent’s arm when he is punching at you. After a hit or limb destruction
you might be able to grab his limb, but always slide your hand down his arm
from the elbow area to secure the wrist. The elbow does not move as fast as
the hand and is easier to grab.

Technique #6- In this technique you fake a high attack which causes the
opponent to raise his guard (A). Next, you drop in under his guard and
execute a drop elbow to the opponent’s thigh or knee (B). If the opportunity
is there, grab his ankle as you execute the elbow strike and lever him to the
ground. If not, follow up with other strikes or get back out of the range of his
attack.

Technique #7- In this series of techniques, the opponent punches towards

your face. Strike the muscle on the inside of his arm with your lead hand at
the same time you parry the punch with your rear hand (A). Immediately
strike his eyes with a lead finger jab (B). Guard your head as you recover
from the finger jab and slide down his arm from the elbow to grab the wrist
(C). Finish the technique by striking the opponent’s elbow with your rear
elbow as you grab the wrist (D). A powerful strike here can break the
opponent’s arm, or you can lever him over and control with an arm bar. If
you fail to grab the opponent’s wrist, don’t worry, just continue to throw
combinations of attack.
Technique #8- Side step to the outside to avoid the opponent’s punch, then
grab his arm and check his shoulder (A). Pull the opponent in as you execute
a knee strike to his midsection (B). After the knee strike, your checking hand
snakes in under his arm and hooks around his neck (C). From this position,
crank his head down as you lift his arm to break his balance and take him
down (D). Ground fighting or follow up strikes can be used as needed. If the
opponent resists the neck crank, don’t fight against his strength. Instead, knee
him in the face as he tries to rise up against your hooking arm. Remember to
stay flexible and adapt to what the opponent does.
Technique #9- Side step to the outside and use an elbow destruction to the
opponent’s arm as he punches at you (A). Keeping contact with the punching
arm to control it, grab his leg from behind the knee with your rear hand (B)
and lift his leg upward as you drive a tiger’s mouth strike to his throat to
knock him down (C). The opponent’s head can be slammed into the ground
or surrounding objects to ensure he is incapacitated.
Technique #10- When the opponent attacks you with a mid-level
roundhouse kick, form a shield with your lead arm and leg to block the kick
(A). Without dropping your foot, throw a front kick to the thigh of the
opponent’s support leg (B). The front kick will cause the opponent to fall if
properly executed but be ready to step in and finish him off with a lead-cross
combination.
Technique #11- In this dynamic combination you sidestep and parry the
opponent’s punch to the outside as you grab his hair at the back of his head
(A). Pull his head straight down using the grip on his hair as you drive your
palm under his chin to twist his neck (B). Continue twisting the opponent’s
neck to force him to the ground and finish him with strikes. Be careful when
practicing this technique because it is extremely easy to injure your partner’s
neck if you twist his head with too much force.
Technique #12- When the opponent tries to hit you with a front kick, parry
his leg to the outside and bend your arm to catch his leg. Step into him and
execute a round elbow strike to his throat (A). Immediately sweep the
opponent’s support leg out from under him (B). As he hits the ground, drop
your knee into his groin (C). From here you can control him on the ground or
get away from him.
Technique #13- As the opponent attacks with a punch, step in using
reverse triangle footwork and parry to the outside as you simultaneously
execute a punch to his temple (A). Step to the inside of the opponent’s leg
and execute an elbow limb destruction to his upper arm (B). Push the
opponent’s body backwards as you sweep his leg outward to trip him (C).
Use follow up strikes as needed.
Technique #14- The opponent tries to kick you. Use an outside scooping
parry to knock away his attack (A). As the opponent’s foot hits the ground,
use a lifting heel kick to strike his groin (B). Because you end up in a position
behind the attacker, you can take him to the ground by grabbing both of his
shoulders and pulling straight down. You are also in a position to apply a rear
naked choke which we will discuss in a later chapter.

Technique #15- In this application the opponent throws a low roundhouse

kick to your legs. Raise your lead leg up to block his kick (A) and throw a
Thai round kick to his support leg without placing your foot down (B). Check
his lead hand as you kick to prevent a counter strike. At the conclusion of this
technique, you are in position to deliver a cross to the opponent’s head if
needed. It is important to use the outward motion of your leg block to
generate power for your counter kick.
Technique #16- During a struggle with the attacker, you grab his arm. Pull
him into a backfist strike as you step into the front of his lead leg (A).
Maintain the hold on his wrist and place your other hand on his shoulder to
lock his arm out straight as you sweep his lead foot out from under him (B).
Continue to push on his upper shoulder while sweeping the opponent’s leg
back to force him to the ground, then replace the hand on his shoulder with
your knee. Use both arms to pull his arm back to dislocate the opponent’s
shoulder (C). From this position you can disengage and escape, follow up
with striking techniques, or apply a choke hold from behind the opponent.
Technique #17- From a close range inside position, throw a round Elbow
Strike to the opponent’s head as you scoop his closest arm down and away
from you (A). After you execute the elbow strike, hook the attacker’s head,
and lift his arm as you crank his head down into a front knee strike (B).
Technique #18- In this application we will look at how you can combine
elements of the previous techniques together as needed. First execute
technique #1. As your opponent bends over from your front kick to his groin,
use both hands to grasp around his neck to secure him in a neck lever clinch.
From this position, pull the opponent down and execute knee strikes to his
body or head (A). Alternate your knee strikes from different legs and switch
between striking the head, body, or legs. This will keep the opponent
guessing where the next attack is coming from. Be sure to guard your groin
while in the clinch position. You can use your elbows to stop any knee strikes
the opponent decides to throw. From the neck lever clinch, you can force the
opponent into a wall, or other object. You may also break away from him or
take him to the ground with a takedown. If you chose to break away from the
clinch, always throw strikes to the opponent as you disengage.
Technique #19- When the opponent punches, slip to the inside and
execute a round elbow strike to his face as you step in and to the outside of
his lead leg (A). Reverse the motion of your elbow strike and hit the
opponent in the neck with a reverse palm strike. As the palm strike lands
against the opponent’s neck, hook his head, and pull him down as you sweep
his lead foot inward (B). The shock of the neck strike combined with the
sweep will cause the opponent to fall. A stomp to the head could be used to
finish the opponent if he still poses a threat (C). It is important to note with
this technique that the neck strike does not have to be with the palm. During
the dynamics of the situation, you may strike with the forearm, palm, or even
the elbow. The key with all these techniques is being able to adapt in the
moment and react to what the opponent does. Always practice variations of
all your techniques against a training partner who is resisting to different
degrees.
Technique #20- In this final technique, the opponent punches to your face.
Parry the punch to the inside and execute your own strike to his head (A).
Roll your deflecting hand over and trap the opponent’s arm against your body
as you deliver an elbow limb destruction strike to his elbow (B). Step in and
use your strike to his elbow joint as a lock to lever him to the ground (C).
Sweep his lead leg as needed to force him down.
The techniques in this chapter should give you a good starting point to begin
your training in combinations. You will notice that I have included several
leg sweeps and techniques that we had not covered in the previous chapters.
My goal here is to get you to understand how all ranges of combat must flow
together in good combinations of attacks. You must remember that
techniques alone do not win a fight and that you will need to develop speed,
power, endurance, and other attributes to be successful. The most important
factor is your mental state of mind. Feel free to mix these combinations
together and experiment with your own to discover what works best for you.
Train hard and don’t get frustrated when you fail or don’t see immediate
results. If learning martial arts was easy, everyone would be a master. Have
faith, train hard, and you will succeed.
Summary-
A good fighter always attacks in combination because one technique seldom
wins a fight. This chapter illustrates twenty random combinations that can be
used effectively in an encounter. These combinations should be mixed up to
form new combinations, and you should experiment with combinations of
your own. Remember that techniques alone do not win a fight. You will need
to develop speed, power, endurance, and proper mental attitude. When
practicing combinations and training for an encounter, you should consider
the following principles:
1) The Cause and Effect Principle
2) The One for One Principle
 Chapter 9
Trapping the Hands
Trapping is a method of immobilizing one or both of the opponent’s hands,
so you can attack with ease. A whole book could be written on this subject
alone and the fact is many trapping techniques demonstrated today are just
too complicated to work effectively in a real situation. Here we will look at
several basic trapping techniques that have been proven effective and can be
applied with little practice.
Trapping always takes place after initial contact has been made with the
opponent’s arm. This contact can be the result of a block or parry made by
you or the attacker. Once this contact is made with the opponent’s arm, you
will proceed to trap his arm and launch your attack. Most of the time the
action of trapping and attacking is done in one fluid motion. Being able to
feel the opponent’s motions and read his intentions are vital to develop
effective trapping skills. Masters of trapping can tie up your hands while
blind folded due to their high level of sensitivity.
When contact is made between your arm and the opponent’s arm, we will call
this a contact point. A high contact point is when the arms make contact
while in an upward position and a low contact point is when the arms make
contact in a downward position. Once this contact point is made, the
opponent will either press into you, retract his arm, or do nothing. The
trapping technique you use will depend on which of these actions your
opponent takes.
The first two trapping techniques we will cover are the slapping hand and the
grabbing hand. For the slapping hand, when contact is made high or low and
the opponent retracts his arm or does nothing, slap his arm down with your
rear hand as you execute a finger jab or a lead punch. With the grabbing
hand, the opponent pushes into you with his arm. Go with his force and grab
his wrist with the contact hand as you attack with the rear hand. The grabbing
hand pulls the attacker into the strike which doubles the impact power. The
slapping hand and grabbing hand can be used together in some cases.
To use both the grabbing hand and the slapping hand together would involve
making a high contact point with the opponent, then executing the grabbing
hand and striking. The striking hand then immobilizes the opponent’s arm
with a slapping hand, and you strike with the original hand that grabbed. This
series of movements take place in less than a second. The slapping hand can
also be employed from a low contact point; however, the grabbing hand is
best used from the high contact point.
High Contact Point-A high contact point is when the arms make contact
while the hands are up. The opponent will either press into you, retract his
arm, or maintain the position and do nothing. The press is normally an
attempt to attack. Your response will be based on the actions of the opponent.
Low Contact Point-For a low contact point the arms are down. Like the
high contact point, this can occur after a parry, block, or attack from you or
the opponent. The opponent has the same options as in the high contact point.
Your response will depend on the actions of the attacker. Sensitivity to the
opponent’s body motion is a critical skill to master.

High Contact Point and Low Contact Point

The Slapping Hand-The slapping hand trap is used when the opponent
does nothing or retracts his arm after contact. You slap his arm down with the
rear hand and strike to his face or execute a finger jab to his eyes. It is
important to not retract your arm after contact. The strike moves straight from
the initial contact point.

The Grabbing hand-The grabbing hand is used when the opponent

pushes into you with his arm from a high contact point. You go with the force
of his push and grab his wrist with the contact arm as you strike with the rear
hand.
If you execute the slapping hand and the opponent strikes before you can
attack, deflect his strike inward and grab his wrist. Next pull his arm over the
top of his other arm that you slapped down. This motion will immobilize both
of the opponent’s hands and leave him completely open to attack. It is
exceedingly difficult to trap both of the opponent’s hands, but if you can,
finish him quickly with a flurry of strikes before he can recover. In trapping
you will often see a technique known as chain punching done when both of
the attacker’s hands are immobilized. Chain punching is throwing continuous
punches in a straight blast to the opponent’s head.
It is extremely important to practice your punching techniques directly from
the initial point of contact to the target without retracting your arm prior to
the strike. You must be able to generate power from a very short distance
when you strike. This requires proper practice and the use of your body
weight to drive the strike into the opponent. One way to practice this concept
is to put your extended fingertips on a heavy bag, then strike into the bag
with your fist by simply closing the hand to strike. Use the rotation of your
hips to assist with power.

Crossing hands- Both of the opponent’s arms can be immobilized by

pulling one of his arms over the other arm, using the grabbing hand
technique. This often occurs after a slapping hand trap when the opponent
interferes with your strike. You must attack quickly because the opponent
won’t stay trapped long.
Chain Punching-Chain punching is a highly effective way to attack from
a trapping technique using a continuous and rapid series of strikes. You
should use chain punching like a machine gun to overwhelm the attacker. It is
also important to practice short range punching to develop power in your
strikes.
Deflections Used for Trapping
We will now cover two deflections that will lead into trapping techniques.
These deflections are used in close, just outside of grappling range. The first
is the wing deflection. When you have a high contact point with the
opponent, your arm is inside of his, and he is pressing into you, allow your
arm to collapse and bring your elbow up as if you are looking at your watch.
Your rear hand guides and grabs the opponent’s arm and pulls him into a
backfist strike. You may then follow up with a trap or additional strikes.
The second deflection is the bent wrist scoop. This technique is mainly used
against low punches to your body. As the punch comes in, drop your forearm
down and use a scooping motion of your wrist to deflect the punch down and
outward. Immediately counter with a strike or control with the slapping hand.
The bent wrist scoop is highly effective for guiding a limb into a joint
manipulation technique. It is important to keep the elbow in tight as you
execute this technique.
The Wing Deflection- In the below illustration, the defender redirects the
opponent’s attack with a wing deflection. He then grabs the attacker’s arm
and follows with a backfist strike to the head. A slapping hand trap and punch
could then be used.
The Bent Wrist Scoop Deflection- In the below sequence the defender
uses a bent wrist scoop to deflect the attacker’s mid-level punch down and
away from him. At the same time, he punches to his face. He could then use
the slapping hand trap and punch as a follow up technique if needed.

As you can see, the slapping hand trap and the grabbing hand trap allow you
to control the opponent’s arm or arms for a split second while you counter
strike. When involved in a real encounter these techniques would be done at
lightning speed. Trapping techniques must blend in with all of the other
elements of your fighting system. Each movement flows right into the next
movement without conscious thought. If you must take the time to think
about a technique, then it’s already too late to use it. Only through constant
repetition of these movements can you reach this level of no thought. At this
point reflexes will take over and the movements will just seem to happen on
their own. Now let’s look at some variations of these basic movements.
Technique #1- In our first variation the opponent throws a punch at your
face that you stop with an elbow limb destruction (A). You then use a
slapping hand trap to his punching arm as you strike his throat with a tiger’s
mouth strike (B). Even if the opponent retracts his hand rapidly after the
strike, the slapping hand trap will pin his arm against his body. Be sure to
trap near the elbow joint when using the slapping hand trap. The grabbing
hand trap could also be used after the limb destruction.

Technique #2- The next variation involves using a low parry to stop an
opponent’s low punch (A). The slapping hand trap is then used immediately
to pin his arm as you attack his temple with a backfist strike (B). Remember
that these techniques can be done from any contact point regardless of who is
attacking or defending. Again, it is important to aim for the elbow area with
your slapping hand trap. Not only is the elbow easier to trap because it is
moving slower than the fist, buit it also prevents the attacker from using an
elbow strike or back fist attack. A slapping hand trap on the lower arm or fist
area allows the elbow to move freely. Trapping above the elbow allows the
fist to move freely.
Summary-
Trapping is a method of immobilizing the opponent’s arms or hands, so he is
vulnerable to counter strikes. Trapping always takes place after a point of
contact is made with the opponent. The point of contact can be made high or
low. The slapping hand trap and the grabbing hand trap are the two primary
techniques used to immobilize the opponent’s arms. In some cases, you might
be able to immobilize both of the attacker’s arms by crossing them. Once the
opponent’s arms are immobilized, chain punching can be used to deliver a
rapid attack. Trapping hands requires the ability to read your opponent’s
movements and react to his pressure. There are two deflections that are
commonly used in trapping, the wing deflection, and the bent wrist scoop.
When trapping the attacker’s hands, aim for the elbow.
 Chapter 10
Joint Manipulation
There may come a time where you must control a person without using
strikes. Joint manipulation enables you to subdue an attacker without beating
him into submission. Police officers, bouncers, security guards, and door men
will find these techniques are extremely helpful in situations where minimal
force is needed.
Pain Compliance and Hyper-Extension
Before we get into specific techniques, there are several principles that must
be addressed. First, joint manipulation utilizes two main methods to make it
effective. These methods are pain compliance, and hyper-extension of the
joint. When you apply a joint lock on someone, you are twisting, turning, or
bending the joint in a direction that it does not normally go. This hyper-
extension action causes pain to the joint which gets the cooperation of most
people. This is called pain compliance. Once pain compliance is gained, you
should release the pressure on the joint slightly or the joint can become numb
and you will lose the pain factor that controls the opponent. If the opponent
becomes combative again when the pressure is slightly released, you can
reapply the pressure to the joint. If needed, the joint can be dislocated or
broken.
A properly applied joint lock will work on almost anyone, however there are
some factors that can cause joint manipulation to be less effective. People
that are high on drugs, drunk, pumped up with adrenaline will not feel pain as
much. This makes the pain compliance ineffective. Remember though that
these people’s joints can be broken or dislocated just the same, regardless of
their condition. Joint manipulation also requires grabbing a limb which may
be exceedingly difficult against someone who is quick. When you want to
grab someone’s wrist, aim for their elbow or upper forearm. Your hand will
slide down to their wrist as they try to pull their hand away. If you are
attempting a lock and it is failing, flow into another technique or disengage.
Do not try to force a lock on someone who is punching your face. Defend and
counter first and then apply a lock when the opponent is stunned, and the
timing is right.
Circular Motion and Body Weight
Another factor that is extremely important in joint manipulation is circular
motion. Almost all joint locks are executed in a circular manner. Keep the
circular motions small and in close to your body. Don’t rely on the strength
of your arms alone, but instead, use your whole body to apply a technique.
Imagine that you have a weightlifter in wrist lock. If he can curl one hundred
pounds and you only use the strength of your arms, he will easily pull away.
If on the other hand, you use your whole-body weight to apply pressure on
his wrist, then he would have to be able to curl your entire body in order to
escape. Your chances of success would obviously be much greater.
The Flow
To properly apply joint manipulation techniques, learning to flow is a must.
To Flow means to have the ability to move from one technique to another
without a break in the motion. If you begin to execute an outside wrist lock
on an opponent and he is starting to escape, flow into an inside wrist lock or a
shoulder lock. Never struggle to apply a technique that is failing, or you will
be wasting valuable energy and allowing your opponent to counterattack you.
When this occurs, simply flow into another technique. For the most part, joint
locking requires more skill than striking and kicking, so you must practice
hard and train with a partner who resists in order to master these skills.
In this manual I have included the twenty most effective joint manipulation
techniques that I have learned in decades of studying various martial arts.
These techniques can be found in many fighting systems such as Jiujitsu,
Kali, Aikido, and Chin-na. I know these techniques work in certain situations
because I have used them on the job in my career as a police officer. In the
following pages, we will break down these techniques in detail. The
techniques in this chapter are mostly executed while standing. A later chapter
will cover grappling and ground fighting. Here is a list of the twenty
techniques we will cover.
The twenty Joint Manipulation Techniques-
1) The outside wrist lock
2) The inside wrist lock
 3) The step across (two versions)
4) Spin inside wrist lock
5) Spin outside wrist lock
6) The goose neck come along (front and rear)
7) Dropping arm break
8) Elbow to knee lock takedown
9) Side strangle takedown
10) Neck twist takedown
11) The snake shoulder lock
12) Arm break over shoulder
13) Wrap around arm lock
14) Shoulder snap into naked choke
15) Figure four arm lock with elbow strike
16) Bent wrist lock
17) Outer sweep with tiger’s mouth to throat
18) Elbow up bent wrist lock
19) Twisting hip throw with elbow
20) Bent arm lever crank
Technique #1 The Outside Wrist Lock- Grasp the opponent’s wrist
with your thumb on the back of his hand near the middle knuckle. Twist his
wrist to the outside of his body at a forty-five-degree angle. Use both hands if
needed to control the opponent’s wrist When properly applied, pain
compliance will prevent the opponent from countering you. Step back as you
twist the wrist. The opponent will be forced to the ground or his wrist will be
broken. When he hits the ground execute the step across move (technique #3)
for ground control. In practice your partner may do a break fall to avoid
injury to his wrist. There are many variations of this lock, but this is the most
basic and effective.
Technique #2 The Inside Wrist Lock- To execute the inside wrist
lock, reach across your body and grab the opponent’s wrist with your thumb
behind his hand at the middle knuckle (A). Twist his wrist so that the fingers
are pointed up at a ninety-degree angle (B). Do not twist the wrist too far or
the opponent will bend his elbow and escape. If you don’t twist the wrist far
enough, he may also escape. The key is to keep his fingers pointed straight up
and his elbow locked. Drive the fingers towards his head to force him to the
ground. You may also force him to the ground by stepping at a forty-five-
degree angle and pushing the elbow down to the ground. Once you have
locked out the arm you may execute the drop arm break (Technique #7). In
some cases, you may flow from the outside wrist lock into the inside wrist
lock or vice versa. This can be accomplished using the bent wrist scooping
hand which we discussed in the chapter on trapping hands.
Technique #3 The Step Across Move (Two versions)- The step
across move is used to turn your opponent over and pin him to the ground
after you have taken him down with an outside wrist lock. There are two
ways to execute the step across move. The primary method is shown below.
First execute an outside wrist lock on the opponent (A). As the opponent hits
the ground on his back, immediately step over his head and pull up on his
arm (B). Continue moving in the same direction as you step over him with
your other leg which causes the opponent to turn to his stomach (C). You
then place your knee on to his shoulder as you pin him face down with his
arm still locked (D). The entire sequence of movements is executed in one
fluid motion in less than two seconds. You can choose to kick the opponent
in the head as you step over him if needed. The second version simply uses
the momentum of the opponent’s fall with a sharp pull upward on his arm to
turn him over. He is then controlled, or ground fighting techniques could be
used.
Technique #4 The Spin Inside Wrist Lock- Grab the opponent’s
wrist firmly with both hands (A). Spin in under his arm, keeping contact with
the arm on your shoulder blade (B). Pull down on his arm as if you were
cutting downward with a sword to drive him to the ground (C). Finish with a
strike or grappling technique. If the opponent resists, his shoulder will be
dislocated.
Technique #5 The Spin Outside Wrist Lock- Grab the opponent’s
wrist with both hands (A) and spin under his arm to the outside (B). Crank
his arm behind his back and lock it (C). You may drive the arm into his lower
back to break his balance and set him up for a choke hold.

Technique #6 The Goose Neck Come Along- The Goose neck come
along is a valuable technique for police or security personnel. It is used to
control and escort a possible aggressor. It can be done in front of the
opponent’s body or behind his back, but behind the back is safer. From across
your body, grab the opponent’s wrist with your hand palm up. Your other
hand grabs the opponent’s elbow and pulls him in towards you (A) as you
lock his elbow into the crook of your arm (B). When the technique is done
properly, the attacker will rise on his toes allowing you to control his
movement. Illustration (C) shows the lock when done behind the opponent.
Technique #7 The Dropping Arm Break- This technique is highly
effective after you have applied a straight arm bar, or when you have
executed an inside wrist lock and the opponent is trying to escape. Bring your
elbow over his arm locking it under your arm pit. Then kick your feet out and
drop straight to the ground as you pull up on his wrist. This action will break
his arm or dislocate the shoulder when done with force. Use caution when
practicing with your training partner.
Technique #8 The Elbow to Knee Takedown- To execute this
technique, fake an attack (A), or duck in under the opponent’s attack and grab
his ankle as you execute an elbow strike to his knee (B). Drive through with
the attack to force the opponent down. Finish him with a strike or leg lock.

Technique #9 Side Strangle and Takedown- Slip the opponent’s

punch to the outside as you enter and wrap your arm around his neck (A).
Grab your other arm and squeeze to apply pressure to his neck and force him
down (B). You may sweep his leg to assist with the takedown. Maintain the
stranglehold on the ground.
Technique #10 Neck Twist Takedown- When you find yourself in
close range to the opponent, you can apply this technique by grabbing his
head by the hair with one hand and under his chin with the other (A). Next,
twist his head quickly in either direction towards the ground (B). Remember
that where the head goes, the body follows. Be extremely careful as this
technique could break the opponent’s neck.

Technique #11 The Snake Shoulder Lock- Reach in from across

your body and grab the opponent’s elbow as you slide your forearm inside of
his (A). Pull him in as you hook your forearm behind his shoulder or triceps
area (B). Force his upper body over where you can hook his head and apply
knee strikes, a choke, or a neck crank. This technique is called the snake
because the motion your arm makes as it slides in under the opponent’s
elbow and up around his triceps area resembles a snake circling around a tree
branch. When properly applied, the attacker will be caught in the lock before
he realizes it has happened.

Technique #12 The Arm Break Over Shoulder- Grab the

opponent’s wrist and pull him in as you punch (A). Raise the arm as you step
in under and crank it down over your shoulder to lock or break it at the elbow
joint (B). You can follow with technique #4 or a shoulder throw. Be sure if
the opponent escapes to turn towards him quickly so he can’t get your back.

Technique # 13 Wrap Around Arm Lock (Outside Snake)- Wrap

your arm around the opponent’s arm to the outside, between the shoulder and
elbow (A). Lift up with your forearm to apply pressure (B). His forearm
should be under your arm pit. Again, the movement of your arm resembles a
snake crawling around a branch.

Technique #14 Shoulder Snap into Rear Naked Choke- As you

face your opponent with your hands up, very quickly strike his rear shoulder
backwards and his lead shoulder to the front, to twist his body around so that
his back is to you (A). Immediately apply a rear naked choke (B). You may
take the opponent to the ground by buckling his rear leg with a kick.

Technique #15 Figure Four Arm Lock and Elbow Strike- Grab
the opponent’s wrist and raise it up as you reach across the crook of his
elbow and grab your own wrist (A). Twist his arm to the outside and force
him down (B). As you twist into him, you can elbow strike his face to distract
him from the lock. You may also sweep his outside leg as you take him down
if needed.
Technique #16 The Bent Wrist Lock- Grab the opponent’s hand as if
to execute an inside wrist lock, but he bends his elbow. Grab his wrist with
your other hand and twist his hand forward and down. This technique may
also be done from a cross wrist grab by checking the opponent’s hand and
rotating your hand over his wrist to apply the lock. When properly applied,
the opponent will immediately drop down to his knees. It is important to keep
his arm bent at the elbow when applying this lock. If the opponent straightens
his arm, you can flow into a straight arm bar and execute the dropping arm
break (Technique #7). Anytime the opponent resists a lock, you will need to
abandon the lock or flow into another type of technique.

Technique #17 The Outer Sweep with Tiger’s Mouth Strike-

Enter in on the opponent and jam his attack with an outside parry.
Immediately grab his arm with the parrying hand and drive a tiger’s mouth
strike into his throat (A). Step in behind his leg as you drive him back with
the strike and sweep him to the ground (B). His head may be smashed into
the ground if needed. For an extremely powerful attack, sweep both legs
together. You must pull down on the arm to off balance the opponent.
Technique #18 Elbow Up Bent Wrist Lock- When the opponent
reaches out to put his hand on you, grab his fingers and bend them backwards
to force him down. Then twist his hand clockwise and reach in under his arm,
grabbing the meaty edge of his hand. Twist his hand in towards his body to
apply pain. He will rise on his toes when done properly. This technique may
also be done when an attacker grabs your shoulder from behind. When this
occurs, step back under his arm and grab his wrist to apply the lock as
described above.

Technique #19 Twisting Hip Throw with Elbow- Enter into close
range as you slip an opponent’s attack and step behind his legs (A).
Immediately twist to the rear and drive your elbow into the opponent’s chest
to sweep him back over your extended lead leg (B). In some cases, you may
grab his legs and lift to throw him backwards. Finish him on the ground or
with strikes.
Technique #20 The Arm Lever Crank- When the opponent punches,
parry his strike to the inside with your rear hand as you cut inwards with your
lead forearm (A). As the opponent’s arm bends due to the cutting action of
your forearm, gain control of his wrist, and drive your forearm down into the
crook of his arm to force him down (B). Be sure to point the top of your head
towards the attacker as he is jerked down from the force of the arm lever.
This will allow you to headbutt him and not risk his head slamming into your
face as he comes forward. If the opponent pulls back, follow with an elbow
strike and neck crank.

Lock Flow Drills

Now that you have learned the twenty techniques, you should practice
flowing from one lock to the next. This skill is crucial when the opponent
muscles out of a joint lock or you miss with your first attempt. Start with
slight resistance from your training partner and then build up to higher
resistance. The universal signal that a joint lock has been applied effectively
is to tap out. When your training partner taps out during practice, release your
lock immediately to prevent injury. Below are several examples of lock flows
to practice.
1) Bent wrist scoop into outside wrist lock/inside wrist lock
2) Goose neck come along/Snake (shoulder lock)
3) Arm Break over shoulder/spin inside wrist lock/side strangle takedown
4) Outside wrist lock/bent wrist lock/spin outside wrist lock
5) Figure four arm lock/inside wrist lock/dropping arm break
Once you become proficient flowing from one lock to another, start
mixing the joint lock techniques with striking and kicking combinations. This
will obviously require you to move between different ranges. You will
discover that some techniques flow together well and work better in
combination than other techniques may. Only through hard practice will these
techniques become second nature.
Summary-
There are times when you must control a person rather than strike them. Joint
manipulation allows you to subdue and control an attacker without beating
them. The two primary principles of joint manipulation are,
1) Pain Compliance
2) Hyper-extension
Most joint locking techniques are executed in a circular motion and you
should effectively use your body weight to apply the techniques. There are
twenty primary joint locking techniques in this chapter that once mastered,
can be combined in endless combination with other techniques. Being able to
flow from one technique to the next effortlessly will enable you to adapt
when a technique fails.
 Chapter 11
Grappling and Ground Fighting
Ground fighting is a critically important phase of training in the martial arts
that is often neglected. Since most fights end up on the ground, a good
knowledge of grappling skills is essential to become a well-rounded martial
artist. Grappling involves closing the distance, takedowns, joint locks,
chokes, breakfalls, escapes, and striking on the ground. Even if you are very
proficient with standing techniques, you should learn ground fighting skills in
case your attacker knocks you to the ground or takes you down.
In an encounter there are several ways that the fight will end up on the
ground. Probably the most common way is when one person loses their
balance or is struck and falls. Two other scenarios often occur. If the
opponent is getting pummeled by you, he will try to close the distance and
clinch to reduce his risk of injury. This is a natural reaction seen often in
boxing matches when the tired or injured fighter tries to clinch. On the other
hand, you may need to close the distance on your opponent if he is a superior
striker. In these circumstances, closing the distance without getting hit
becomes extremely important. In both cases the fight ends up on the ground.
Breakfalls
Knowing the proper way to fall without being injured is crucial when you are
the one who is knocked down or slips in a fight. Breakfall techniques will
keep you from hitting your head on the ground, breaking bones, and will help
you recover quickly to stay in the fight. I can personally attest to the fact that
breakfalls work. One holiday season I was retrieving Christmas decorations
from the attic when I accidently lost my balance and fell out of the opening in
the ceiling. I instantly fell about eight feet to the concrete garage door.
Instinctively I tucked my chin, curled my body, and used my arm to slap the
ground. I was hurt a little, but I was able to get up and finish the task. My
years of practicing breakfalls saved me from very serious injury. Now we
will look at the most important falling techniques.
The Backward Breakfall- When pushed from the front or falling
backwards, try to lower your body as much as possible by bending your legs.
Round your back and bring your arms in front of your chest. Tuck your chin
so you don’t hit the back of your head on the ground and as you fall, use your
arms to slap out to the side. The slapping of the arms will help slow your fall.
Immediately cover your head and expect the opponent to come in after you.
In some cases, you may be able to let the momentum of the fall roll you back
over your shoulder and up to your feet. If not, you will assume the open
guard position which will be explained later in this chapter.

The Side Breakfall- The concept of the side breakfall is identical to the
backward break fall. Protect your body, absorb the impact, and quickly
recover. As you are shoved to the side, or lose your balance, lower your body
as much as possible by bending your legs. Raise your hands up in front of
your chest and tuck your chin. Straighten the leg on whichever side you are
falling to horizontal with the floor. As your body makes impact, slap your
arm against the ground at a forty-five-degree angle to stop the momentum.
Your extended leg also assists with this. Keep your hands up to protect
yourself and get to your feet quickly or assume the open guard position.

The Forward Breakfall/Roll- When pushed from behind, or falling

forward, bend your body over with your arms curved like a ball (A). Lower
yourself by bending your front leg and tuck your chin as you roll over your
shoulder and onto your back. As you land, slap the ground with your arm that
is closest to the floor (B). Again, you must cover your head for protection
against kicks or strikes from your opponent. Get to your feet quickly or spin
towards the opponent and assume the open guard position. Breakfalls take a
lot of words to describe, but the movements all happen instantly as you fall.

Defense from the Ground When the Opponent Is Standing

You have been pushed or knocked to the ground and avoided injury with a
breakfall, but you are now in the situation where your opponent is standing
above you and trying to cause you harm. When this occurs, you must assume
a position to protect yourself until you can get back to your feet quickly. The
best position for this scenario is the open guard.
The Open Guard- From your back, face the direction of the opponent
with your feet up and pointed towards him. Your hands are up to protect your
head which is lifted off the ground. If the opponent circles you or tries to
move around you, you must spin on your back to keep him in front of you.
One of your feet or hands can be placed on the ground to assist with the spin.
It is extremely important to not let the attacker get around your feet and to
your side. From this position you can kick out at the opponent’s knees or at
his face if he bends forward. You can also use your feet to stop punches by
kicking the opponent’s bicep as he strikes or by placing your foot on the
bicep of his punching arm. The open guard will buy you time so that you can
stand up and get back to your feet.
Standing Up from the Ground- When the opportunity comes to get
back to your feet, you must do it quickly and safely. From the open guard
position, roll to one side. Cover your head with your upper arm as you brace
with your elbow and upper foot on the ground. Keep your lower leg out
straight facing the opponent. Next you will lift your body up from the ground
with your bracing arm and leg as you kick out towards the opponent. Swing
your extended leg back and plant it on the ground to stand up. The entire
movement happens very quickly. If the opponent rushes in before you can
stand, roll back to the open guard position. The below illustrations show the
series of motions.
Closing the Distance on the Opponent
To close the distance on an opponent, keep your hands up for protection and
to cause him to raise his guard. Use a low kick to his knee for distraction,
then shoot in quickly to clinch. Your entry must be very fast, and your hands
will parry or tie up any punches as you close the distance. Keep your head up
to avoid knee strikes, kicks, or uppercuts. You may clinch over the
opponent’s arms, under his arms, or with one arm over and one arm under.
Any punches thrown by the attacker can be parried, ducked, or deflected with
a swimming motion of the arms. This swimming motion is often called a dive
entry. The most important thing to remember when shooting in on the
opponent is not to hesitate. When you decide to enter, you must do so with
one hundred percent commitment. The below illustrations show the entry
with a low kick to clinch. Once you have the opponent in the clinch, you
should take him to the ground where you can finish the fight.
Taking the Opponent to the Ground
After you close the distance and clinch with the opponent, you must take him
to the ground where you can finish him with strikes, chokes, locks, or
submission holds. In this section we will look at five basic takedowns that are
highly effective. These takedowns are the valley drop takedown, the hip
throw, the double leg takedown, the back squeeze/leg hook takedown, and
the pull down. Some other methods of taking the opponent down have been
covered in previous chapters.
The Valley Drop Takedown- After you have clinched with the
opponent, you can execute the valley drop takedown by extending your foot
behind the opponent’s legs (A) and sitting down as you maintain a firm hold
on his upper body (B). Once the opponent hits the ground you may continue
to roll up on top of him to a dominate position. When executing this
technique, it is extremely important that you keep the opponent’s body from
landing on top of you as he falls.
The Hip Throw- When you end up clinched with the opponent and he is
applying forward pressure against you, you may swivel your hips in front of
him below his belt line and pull his upper body forward (A). Straighten your
legs and bend forward to throw him over your hip (B). You can strike or
follow the opponent down to a position of control (C).

The Back Squeeze and Leg Hook Takedown- From the clinch
position with your arms around the opponent’s waist, squeeze inward with
your arms as you drive your upper body forward. As the opponent starts to
move backwards, hook his leg on the opposite side of his body that your head
is on (A). Take him to the ground and obtain a position of control (B). The
illustration shows the mount position (shown later in this chapter) with a side
strangle choke.
The Pull Down- If your opponent is very strong and you are unable to
throw him or execute a takedown, you can grip his clothing and place your
foot in his hip to unbalance him as you sit down and pull him down to you
(A). Wrap your legs around his waist and keep him held close with your arms
around his head and arm. This will keep the opponent from punching you
until you can apply a choke, arm bar, or reverse him. This position is called
the closed guard. This takedown should only be used as a last resort, when
the opponent has been hurting you with strikes, you closed the distance to
clinch, and you are having a hard time getting the opponent down to the
ground where you could finish him.

The Double Leg Takedown- This is a famous takedown used often by

wrestlers and jiujitsu fighters. Just prior to a clinch, shoot in low and grab
both of the opponent’s legs behind the knees. Lift his legs up as you drive
into him with your shoulder to take him down. Be careful of knee strikes
when attempting this takedown. You may also sweep his leg from the inside
as you drive him down. Be sure that your head or knees do not strike the
ground when you take him down. Immediately work to gain a position of
control on the opponent.

Ground Positions to Control the Opponent

Once the opponent is on the ground it is time to use effective ground fighting
techniques to finish him off, but before you can finish the opponent you must
control him with proper ground positions. We will stick to the two most basic
and effective ground positions that will help you win a fight. These positions
are the mount position and the guard position.
The Mount Position- The mount position is the primary position you
want to achieve when the fight goes to the ground. From the mount you have
the advantage of reach and gravity. You can strike the opponent at will or
apply chokes and arm locks. In some cases, you may find yourself on the side
of the opponent in a cross-body position. From here it is a simple matter to
swing your leg over his body to achieve the mount position. If the opponent
is skilled, he will attempt to stop you from gaining the mount by blocking
your leg or putting you into his guard. In these circumstances, you can strike
the opponent aggressively and swing your leg over him as he defends the
attacks. You can also drive your knee straight over his body to obtain the
mount position.
 The Mount Position
The Guard Position- The guard position is a defensive, used to control
the attacker long enough to escape, reverse him, or in some cases finish him
from the bottom. You should remember that being on the bottom is always a
last resort. Don’t fight from the guard unless you must. To execute the guard,
wrap your legs around the opponent’s waist. Grab behind his head and wrap
one of his arms up to pull him in close and prevent him from punching you. If
the opponent sits up, you should arch your back and use your knees on his
chest to prevent punches. You must always keep the opponent back with your
knees or keep him held in tight to keep from getting punched. From the guard
you can heel kick the opponent’s kidney area, elbow strike, ear slap, choke,
arm bar, or sweep him. The guard can be a very deceptive position because it
appears that the person on the bottom is losing the fight, but you are able to
control the attacker. Any time you find yourself on the bottom, work to get
your legs around the opponent’s waist and obtain a guard position.

The Guard Position

You have learned how to close the distance and clinch with the opponent,
how to take him down to the ground, and the best positions to control him on
the ground, now we will study some of the ways to finish the attacker once
you have control. In addition to striking, there are three main ways to end the
fight, arm bars, choke holds, and leg locks. Let’s look at the most effective of
these techniques.
Arm Bars
Arm bars are highly effective ways to end a fight through submission or by
breaking the arm. Arm bars are normally executed against the elbow joint
using some part of your body as a fulcrum point. Any time the opponent
straightens his arm it is vulnerable to an arm bar. It should be noted that in a
real encounter, the opponent may be slippery from sweat or blood, and an
arm bar may be extremely difficult to apply. If you can successfully apply the
arm bar, and the opponent submits, you will probably need to hold him in the
lock until police arrive. If you release the lock, he may continue to fight. The
best course of action in a deadly encounter is probably to break the
opponent’s arm and try to escape. Now let’s examine some arm bar
techniques.
The Cross-Arm Bar- From the mount position, the opponent tries to
push you away from him and straighten his arms. Place your hands on his
chest with one arm over his arm that will be attacked (A). Put all your weight
on his chest as you swing your leg over his head and fall backwards to the
side. Hold his arm tightly to your chest as you fall back, and as his arm
straightens grab his wrist. Squeeze your knees together tightly to trap his arm
and prevent escape. The elbow joint is then locked by arching your back,
thrusting your pelvis forward, and pulling the arm towards your chest (B). If
the opponent grabs his own wrist to prevent the arm bar you can use your
foot to kick his other arm away. The cross-arm bar is a very common arm bar
with many variations. It may seem difficult at first, but with practice it will
become second nature to you. Remember not to grab the opponent’s arm in
the beginning of the technique or he will know that an arm bar is coming.
Simply hug the arm against your chest as you swing the leg over his head and
fall backwards. You are not using strength to lock the arm, your entire body
weight falling backwards pulls his arm out straight.
The cross-arm bar can also be done from the guard position. Hold the
attacker’s arm against your chest and swing your leg over his head. Arch
your back to lock his arm. If the opponent stands up the lock will still work.
Try to keep your leg that is over his head down tight to prevent escape.

The illustration below shows a variation of the cross-arm bar where the
opponent is face down on his stomach. Your leg is wrapped over his arm and
may hook in under his chin to apply pressure on his neck. The wrist is pulled
to the side and the arm is pushed against the leg to lock his elbow joint.
Another variation that is not shown would be to lock his arm while you are
face down on your stomach. Always look for opportunities when the
opponent straightens his arm out to apply a cross-arm bar. Be cautious when
executing the cross-arm bar from the mount that you are giving up a superior
position to apply the arm lock. If the lock fails or the opponent escapes, he
could gain a superior position on you. Don’t execute the cross-arm bar from
the mount unless you are confident you will succeed.
The Bent Arm Bar- From the mount position, start punching the
opponent in the face. When he covers his face with his arms to protect
himself, push one of his arms to the ground. Slide your other arm in under his
arm and grab your wrist. Slide his wrist back along the ground to lock his
elbow and shoulder joints. Keep your elbow close to his head and your head
down to avoid strikes.

The Straight Arm Bar- If you attempt the bent arm bar and the opponent
straightens his arm, slide your forearm under his elbow and lift on the elbow
joint to lock his arm out straight. Again, keep your head down to avoid
strikes.

The Wrap Around Arm Bar- From the mount position, wrap your arm
around the opponent’s arm so that your forearm is under his elbow joint.
Arch your back and lock the arm out straight. You may grab your own shirt
or jacket for added support. Use your free hand to check his other arm and
prevent strikes.

The Wrap Around Arm Bar from the Guard- You have the
opponent in your guard, and he attempts to punch you. Block his arm near the
biceps (A) and then immediately wrap your arm around his, trapping his
forearm under your arm pit. From this position you may grab his clothing and
choke as you lock out his elbow joint or grab his throat with a tiger’s mouth
strike (B). Notice that in the illustration below, the foot is placed on the
opponent’s hip at the completion of the technique to keep his body away. By
placing your foot that is on the side of the arm lock under his leg and using
your other foot to push his opposite leg back, you can roll him over and
reverse the position. You can then apply the wrap around arm bar from the
mount as shown above.

By this point it becomes clear that almost any technique that you execute
from the mount position, could also be executed from the guard position and
vice versa. Many of these arm bars can also be executed when in a side
control position. You should always try to remain flexible in your training
and practice techniques from different postures and positions. It is also
important to remember that an opponent’s joints can be locked out with your
forearm, body, knee, shoulder, under arm, hips, and legs. Basically, any part
of your body can be used to apply pressure against a joint if you use the
proper leverage. Here are a few more arm bars executed from various
positions.
The Straight Arm Bar with Knee- From the guard position, when the
opponent straightens his arm, place your foot in his hip and slide you’re hips
out to the side. Hold the opponent’s wrist and use your knee to lock his elbow
joint.

The Reverse Bent Arm Bar- From the guard position, the opponent
grabs you in a head lock. Grab his wrist, arch your back, and drive your
forearm into his neck to loosen his grip. Slip your head out of the head lock
and feed his wrist to your other hand to lock it behind his back. Pull his wrist
towards his head to apply pressure to his elbow and shoulder joint.
Arm Bar on Shoulder- From the guard position the opponent grabs your
lapel near your shoulder. Place both hands on his elbow and put your foot on
his hip to keep him stretched out as you squeeze in with your hands to lock
his elbow joint. Keep his arm on your shoulder for leverage as you lock out
his arm.

Straight Arm Bar from the Side- With the opponent on his stomach,
grab his wrist and sit out, trapping his arm under your arm pit. Arch your
back and pull up on his arm to lock his elbow joint. If he starts to escape from
this arm bar, you can easily transition to a rear choke.

The Downward bent Arm Bar from the Side- From the cross-body
position, grab the opponent’s wrist and slide your other hand under his arm
grabbing your own wrist. Sit out towards the opponent and then swing your
leg over his head. Lean back and push his wrist towards his head to lock his
elbow and shoulder joints.
The Straight Arm Bar with Leg- From a side position, sit out and grab
the opponent’s wrist. Push his wrist down over your thigh and bring your
other leg over his arm. Lift with your thigh and push down with your other
leg to lock his elbow joint. If he bends his arm, hook it with your lower leg to
execute a bent arm bar with the crook of your lower leg.

Choke Holds
Choke holds are without a doubt the best way to finish a fight on the ground.
A properly applied choke will render an attacker unconscious in three to ten
seconds. An extraordinarily strong attacker on drugs may be able to
withstand strikes or even withstand getting his elbow joint broken with an
arm lock, but he will not be able to stop a good choke from putting him to
sleep.
A choke hold works by cutting off blood supply to and from the brain. This is
achieved by blocking the Carotid artery which runs down the side of the
neck. This artery can be blocked off by using your hand, forearm, legs, or
clothing. In most instances the opponent will wake up on his own within
seconds after being choked unconscious and released from the hold. In some
case, the person will not wake up on their own and must be resuscitated or
they may die. For this reason, it is vital to learn the resuscitation technique
when learning how to apply choke holds.
The Resuscitation Technique
The Resuscitation technique is accomplished by sitting the person up and
placing your knee into the center of their back. Then grab both of the
subject’s shoulders and pull backwards as you push forward with your knee.
This will fill the subject’s lungs with air. Release the pressure to allow the air
to expel from the subject’s lungs. Continue this procedure until the person is
breathing on their own or medical professionals have arrived.

Now we will study several choking techniques that are extremely effective
and can be executed regardless of the clothing your opponent is wearing. In
some martial arts such as judo and jiujitsu, students are taught lapel chokes
that involve using the attackers clothing such as a jacket collar to choke him.
These techniques can be highly effective, but unfortunately you can’t rely on
a technique that requires the opponent to be wearing certain clothing when
you are engaged in a real encounter. Due to this reason, no lapel chokes will
be shown here.
The Rear Naked Choke- The rear naked choke is probably the most
important choking technique you can add to your arsenal. Anytime the
opponent turns his back to you he is vulnerable to this choke. Often from the
mount position the opponent will roll to his stomach to avoid punches. When
this happens, you should let him roll. If he keeps his head down to protect his
neck, hit him in the back of the neck with elbow strikes until he raises his
head, then you can slide your arm around his neck to apply the choke. You
can also lift the opponent’s head by pulling up with his hair or using a finger
to lift under his nose. To apply the choke, slide your arm around the
opponent’s neck and grab your opposite shoulder or bicep. Place your free
hand behind his head and choke him by squeezing your elbows together,
expanding your chest, and pushing down on his head. If the opponent tries to
stand up, hook your feet inside of his thighs and use your pelvis to drive him
back down to the ground. Once your legs are hooked in around his body, he
can roll any direction and you will simply roll along with him. It is extremely
important to control the opponent and get your hooks in before you apply the
choke, or the opponent will throw you off his back and escape. The below
illustrations show placing the hooks in, driving the opponent down with your
hips, and the final position of the choke.

The Guillotine Choke- The guillotine choke is highly effective against

an opponent who shoots in to grab your legs for a takedown. Wrap your arm
around his head and bring your forearm up under his neck. Reach in between
your body and his with your other hand and grab your wrist to lock in the
choke. Arch your back and squeeze with your forearm to finish the choke
(A). If the opponent is extremely strong and drives you to the ground as you
wrap your arm around his head, immediately put him in your guard. From the
guard position, squeeze with your legs to control the opponent and to add
leverage to the choke (B). You may also apply this choke from the guard
when you attempt a bent arm bar, and the opponent avoids it by grabbing
around your waist. Just wrap your arm around his head and apply the choke
as described above.

The Triangle Choke- From the guard position you can apply the triangle
choke anytime the attacker places one arm inside of your legs and leaves his
other arm outside. You will often have the opportunity to apply the choke
when the opponent tries to pass your guard. To execute the choke, grab the
opponent’s arm and pull it across his body as you raise your hips and place
your leg up over his shoulder. Tuck your foot under the knee of your opposite
leg, squeeze with the legs, arch your back, and pull down on his head to
apply the choke (A). The foot must be tucked under the knee for a tight
choke. Even if the opponent stands up, or rolls over to his back, you can still
maintain the choke (B). This is an extremely powerful choke because it is
done with the strength of your legs.
The side Strangle- We looked at this choke briefly in the chapter on joint
manipulation. It can be used after slipping an opponent’s punch and taking
him down. It is also extremely effective on the ground after pushing the
opponent’s arm to the side and pinning it with the side of your neck or
shoulder. From a side position, if the opponent pushes on your face, you may
pass his arm to the side and pin it against the side of your neck. Your right
arm is wrapped around his neck and you grab your wrist with your free hand.
Squeeze with the arms as you drive your head into the opponent to choke him
(A). This is basically a triangle choke with your arms instead of with the legs.
From the guard position you can bump the opponent forward and wrap your
arm around his neck as you pass his arm to the side. Grab your own biceps
with the arm that is around his neck and grab the side of your head with your
free hand. Squeeze with your arms as you push with your legs to choke the
opponent (B).
Leg Locks
Every good martial artist should be familiar with leg locking techniques so
we will end this chapter with a look at several of the most effective leg locks
that can be used in a fight. Most of these techniques are applied to the
opponent’s ankle and knee joints. As with arm bars, leg locks can be used to
gain submission or to break the opponent’s joints.
The Knee Lock- If the opponent manages to get one leg outside of your
guard, you can hook his inside leg with your leg and push his upper body to
the side (A). Sit forward and grab his foot as you place your foot under your
outside hooking knee. Pull back on his foot, arch your back, and push with
your legs to apply pressure on the knee joint (B). You can also twist his foot
to apply pressure on the ankle.
The Ankle Lock- To execute the ankle lock, wrap your arm around the
opponent’s ankle and grab your own wrist for support. Fall back and bring
your leg over his leg above his knee. Use your other foot to push the
opponent’s free leg away from you. Arch your back to apply pressure on the
ankle and complete the lock.

The Leg Crank- With the enemy face down, sit on his upper thigh and
grab his foot. Lean back to apply pressure to his knee. You can also twist the
ankle joint. If the opponent escapes, take his back and apply a rear naked
choke.

The Step Over Ankle Lock- From inside the opponent’s open guard,
wrap your arm around his ankle and step around and over his leg near the
thigh. Grab your own wrist for support and arch your back to apply the lock
to his ankle joint. Be careful of kicks from his free leg. From this technique
you may fall back and apply the ankle lock shown above.

Summary-
The vast majority of fights end up on the ground. A well-rounded fighter will
always have a good understanding of ground fighting techniques. Knowing
how to close the distance on an opponent and then take him to the ground is
crucial. There are three primary steps involved in successful ground fighting.
First you must take the opponent down, second you must control him, and
third you must be able to finish the fight. The mount position is the best
position to control an opponent on the ground. If the opponent gets on top of
you, you should put them in between your legs in the guard position to
control them. The best way to finish the opponent on the ground is with a
choke hold. The rear naked choke is highly effective and can be done without
the use of clothing. Knowing how to resuscitate an unconscious opponent
should be learned. Arm bars and leg locks can also be used to break bones or
gain submission.
 Chapter 12
Principles of Self-Defense
Many martial artists have a gap in their training between fighting techniques
and practical self-defense. Knowledge of punching and kicking combinations
will only help you so much when you are caught off guard in a dark alley
against multiple attackers. How will your skills come into play when a two-
hundred-pound street brawler grabs you from behind in a bear hug with your
arms pinned. In this chapter we will address various principles of self-defense
that will compliment your physical fighting skills.
Avoidance- Avoidance is a vital aspect of true self-defense. Most self-
defense situations could be avoided if the victim used common sense, knew
how to spot a potential threat, and stayed clear of the potential threat. Park
your car in well-lit areas, avoid short cuts through unfamiliar parts of town,
and don’t make stops at ATM machines at night. If you know that a certain
bar or club is known for violence and problems, don’t go to those
establishments. If trouble starts, leave the area immediately if possible. All of
these things are common sense but are often overlooked by people. The list
of steps you could take to avoid trouble could go on and on.
Preparation- Be prepared in your home and when you leave your home.
Make sure you bring a cell phone in case you need to notify police. Buy a
self-defense tool such as pepper spray or a handgun and learn to use it
properly. You should also become familiar with the laws in your jurisdiction
regarding self-defense and possession of weapons. Have your car keys in
your hand when you approach your car and always look inside your car
before you get in. When you go out in public, get in the habit of knowing
where exits are located. Sit in restaurants with your back to the wall, facing
the doorway. For home defense. alarm systems, a pet dog, and weapons could
be a life saver against possible intruders.
Awareness- It is vital to be aware of your surroundings. Put away cell
phones or tablets that distract you while out in public and pay attention to
what is going on around you. Pay attention to preattack cues such as a person
staring at you, crossing the street in your direction for no apparent reason,
and groups of people who split up and come towards you from different
angles. Always watch the hands of a potential attacker. Hands that are hidden
in pockets could be holding a gun or other weapon. Remember that the
opponent’s hands will kill you.
Escape- Remember that no one wins in a street fight. Even the person who
comes out on top is usually injured and the person who loses may be killed or
incapacitated. You might find yourself arrested by the police or sued by the
other party. Often weapons are involved and multiple attackers. The best
course of action when faced with a real-life encounter is to escape. If the
situation is a robbery, compliance might buy you time until the attacker is
distracted, and you can escape or fight. Property is never worth the value of
your life. When making your escape, look for a direction that takes you
towards other people. Yelling and making a lot of noise as you escape might
deter the attacker from following you.
Control your ego- Many street fights start as a result of someone’s ego
getting bruised. A person cuts you off in traffic, butts in front of the line in
the store, takes your parking spot, or in some cases simply looks at you the
wrong way. Words get exchanged, your ego is challenged, and very quickly
things escalate to a physical confrontation that all could have been avoided.
Don’t let your ego get you into situations that could result in physical harm,
arrest, or even death. Be the bigger person and walk away from situations that
are nothing more than ego challenges. One of my mentors had a saying that is
absolutely true, “Don’t get in the mud with the pigs!”
De-escalation- Some situations can’t be easily avoided. When a verbal
confrontation occurs, stay calm and speak firmly but softly to the potential
attacker. Keep your hands up with your palms facing forward in a non-
threatening manner. Don’t allow the aggressor to invade your personal space
but realize that backing up might give the impression that you are scared
which can empower him further. In these cases, a simple sidestep or pivot can
increase the distance between you without giving the appearance of retreat.
Often in these situations a simple apology or a smile can de-escalate and end
the encounter. I recently had a traffic altercation where a car cut over into my
lane and almost hit me. I honked my horn which made the aggressive driver
angry. When we stopped at a traffic light, the driver began yelling at me for
honking. My initial urge was to yell back which would have only escalated
the situation further. Instead, I said, “It’s all good, no one got hurt.” The
aggressive driver was speechless and drove away without further problems.
Remember that backing down from a confrontation is not a sign of weakness
and verbal judo can be just as important as physical judo.
Have a plan- It is a good idea to have a basic plan for when things turn
ugly. The plan should be flexible enough to adapt to various situations.
Discuss the plan with your family and loved ones ahead of time so that
everyone knows their role. The plan should include escape routes, what to do
when separated, possible locations to meet up after an incident, information
to gather, and how to communicate with each other or authorities after the
incident. Remember that plans will normally fall apart when situations occur
so be prepared and have alternate plans. It may seem paranoid to discuss how
you will react to possible situations, but basic planning could save lives.
When there is no choice but to fight
The time may come when you have no choice but to fight. All the above
principles have proven ineffective and you have no choice but to defend
yourself or your loved ones. When this occurs, you must attack with every
ounce of fury that you possess. There will be no second chances and you
cannot assume that anything from the attacker. If you do not end the
encounter as quickly as possible you will probably die. Up to this point you
have learned a solid foundation of fighting skills and now we will take that
knowledge a step further by providing some possible responses to specific
self-defense scenarios that are common on the street.
The Wrist Grab- When someone grabs your wrist, they will try to control
you or pull you into a strike. Attack immediately with a finger jab to the eyes,
a strike to the throat, or a kick to the groin or knee.
The Double Hand Choke from the front- Tuck your chin in to
protect your neck from the choke. A flurry of strikes should be thrown at the
attacker’s head instantly. The attacker will try to force you against an object
or wall so be prepared. A sidestep or body pivot can redirect his force. Low
line kicks can be used, but you may be out of range for knee strikes and
elbow boxing. Remember that a choke can render you unconscious so
counter quickly with all you have.
Head Locks- Head locks are quite common in a street fight. They can be
employed both standing and on the ground. When standing, grab the
opponent’s leg with one hand and reach over his shoulder to grab his chin or
hair with your other hand. Step behind him with your closest leg and force
him backwards. Try to slam his head on the ground. As he goes down, he will
probably release the head lock to break his fall. If he does not release the
head lock, you will end up in a grappling situation. When this occurs, work to
get the mount position. Drive your forearm into his neck until he releases the
head lock, then apply your own choke hold.
Choke from The Rear- This is an extremely bad position to get into so
you must react fast. Tuck your chin in to protect your throat and grab the
opponent’s choking arm to lessen the choke. Drop your body weight to
prevent the attacker from lifting you off the ground. Attack with rear elbow
strikes and low kicks to his knee. In some cases, a rear head butt may stun the
attacker and allow you to escape. A shoulder throw could also be an option.
A choke attack can easily render you unconscious and is considered deadly
force, so use of a weapon to defend yourself should always be considered if
you have one in your possession.
Front Bear Hug- An attacker will use a bear hug to throw you to the
ground. He may grab over your arms or under your arms. If your hands are
free, finger jab the eyes, palm strike under the chin or nose, or elbow strike. If
your arms are trapped, then bite, head butt, knee his groin, stomp on his foot
or hook his leg and sweep him to the ground. Keep in mind that grappling
may not be a good idea if the opponent is larger or there are multiple
assailants.
Rear Bear Hug- When grabbed in a rear bear hug, you should use your
rear end to bump the attacker back. This will loosen his grip and create space.
You may grab his groin, stomp his feet, kick the knee, or head butt him. If
you are a good grappler, you may step behind his legs and grab his knees.
Then sit back and force him to the ground where you will mount him. Finish
him with strikes, a choke, or joint locks.
Double Leg Takedown- When the opponent lunges in to grab your legs,
sprawl on top of him with all your body weight and shoot your legs back out
of his reach. From this position you can spin and get his back, get your hooks
in, and apply a choke. You can also control the opponent and deliver knee
strikes to his head or elbow strikes to the back of his neck.
The Full Nelson- The full nelson hold is when the opponent has his arms
under your arms and up behind your head, pushing your head forward and
down. You can clamp your hands together against your forehead to relieve
some of the pressure against your neck. Try to head butt the attacker or p[eel
one of his fingers off of your neck and apply a joint lock. Low kicks may also
be effective when caught in a full nelson. If there is an obstacle behind you,
drive the attacker back hard into it to break his hold.
Double Wrist Grab- When the opponent grabs both of your wrists, head
butt with the top of your head. You can also kick his groin and stomp on his
feet. Another strategy is to raise your hands straight up and catch the
opponent’s arms. Then pull him into an attack or hip throw.
Defense Against a Push- When the attacker tries to push you, step off
angle or body pivot to redirect his force. As his body passes you, apply a side
strangle or rear naked choke. You can also force him into an obstacle or wall.
Depending on the force of the push, you could simply strike the opponent
directly to his face, throat, or eyes.
Hair Grabs and Jewelry- If you work in a career where physical
encounters occur as part of the job, keep your hair short to prevent an
opponent from grabbing it. Don’t wear a lot of jewelry in public such as
chains around your neck or large earrings. These items not only attract
unwanted attention but can be easily ripped from your body and even used to
choke you. If someone does grab your hair, kick his groin, strike his face, or
grab his arm and execute a joint lock. Like a clothing grab, a hair grab will
often be used to pull you into punches. If the opponent has long hair, you
may choose to grab it when you attack.
Weapons Defense
When facing an armed assailant, the deck is heavily stacked against you. One
mistake and you will probably lose your life. It is extremely important in
these instances to cooperate if the situation is a robbery or mugging since
your property can be replaced. I do not recommend using any of these
techniques unless your life depends on it. If the attacker is intent on causing
you harm or death, then you have no choice but to attack with everything you
have. It is best to attack with the element of surprise, when the assailant looks
away from you or is distracted. Having a weapon of your own will help even
the odds. Below are some empty hand responses to a variety of deadly
encounters. Practice these skills like your life depends on it because it does.
Gun Defense from the Front (Chest)- The attacker has a gun pointed
at your chest. You must be within reach to apply any technique against a gun.
Talk to the subject and try to de-escalate as you slowly raise your hands to
shoulder level. When the opponent is talking, his reaction time will be longer
which will aid in your defense. Parry the gun to the side as you move your
body out of the line of fire and grab the barrel of the gun with both hands.
Expect the gun to fire, but whatever you do, do not let go of the weapon.
Twist the barrel towards the attacker and try to rip his finger in the trigger
guard and pry the weapon from his grip. The opponent might let go with one
hand and strike you. If this happens, tuck your head to protect your face and
maintain both hands on the weapon until you can wrench it free. Once you
have control of the gun, escape or hold the attacker at gun point. Remember
that the attacker is now unarmed, so only shoot him if you can still justify
using deadly force because your life is in danger.
Gun Defense from the Front (Head)- When the attacker holds the gun
to your head, proceed as above by talking to the subject and slowly raising
your hands as if to submit. Instantly drop your body below the line of fire as
you drive both hands upward to grab the gun barrel. Twist the barrel directly
back towards the opponent’s head and rip the weapon down and away from
the attacker. Expect the gun to fire.
Gun Defense from Behind- Talk to the suspect, raise your hands, and
slowly look back over your shoulder to try and see where the gun is. Try to
make body contact with the barrel of the gun by moving back slightly until
you feel the gun on your back. You must know where the gun is to have a
chance of executing this technique. Instantly turn and parry the gun as you
move your body out of the line of fire. Grab the barrel of the gun with both
hands as you twist it towards the assailant. The gun will fire so expect it. You
may also get your hand cut or pinched by the slide if the gun is an automatic.
Don’t let go of the gun no matter what happens until you have control.
Grabbing the slide or the cylinder firmly might prevent a second round from
being fired.
Defense Against a Knife Slash- Defending against an attacker who is
slashing wildly with a knife is extremely difficult. Try to grab any object that
you can use as an equalizer. Obviously, a handgun would be your best
weapon against a knife, but if you are unarmed, a belt, jacket, shoe,
broomstick, or trash can lid, might buy you some time. Try to run away if
possible, but if that is not an option, immediately lunge into the opponent and
try to gain control by grabbing the weapon hand. Slam the attacker’s hand
into a wall or table edge to try and dislodge the blade. Expect to get cut.
Defense Against a Knife Thrust- When the attacker thrusts at you with
a knife, twist your body out of the line of attack and parry the attacking arm
away. Push the attacker to off balance him and either escape or try to grab the
knife wielding hand and control the knife with both hands. If a weapon is
available, use it. An object such as a tire iron, cane, or even a rolled-up
magazine could be used to attack the opponent’s arm that holds the knife.
Expect to get cut.
Defense Against a Blunt Object (Stick)- When defending against a
blunt object such as a baseball bat, tire iron, night stick, broom handle, or
club, try to close the distance as fast as possible and control the attacking
limb. If you stay at a distance you are more likely to be struck with the full
force of the object. When the attacker commits himself to a swing, evade the
attack and enter immediately. Close range kicks and knee strikes work well
once you are in close range. Remember to escape if the opportunity exists.
There are some important questions to consider when dealing with an armed
assailant. How many attackers are there? More than one attacker will be
almost impossible to deal with. If the subject is armed with a gun, is it a
revolver or a semi-automatic? A revolver usually holds less ammunition and
if you grab the cylinder, you might be able to stop it from turning and firing
the next round. A semi-automatic will normally hold more rounds and the
slide will probably cut your hand if you are holding it when the gun fires. A
cut hand is better than being shot. Is the attacker intent on killing you? If the
motive is just robber, give up your valuables. Even a highly trained martial
artist will have a difficult time defending against a weapon attack. What are
your surroundings? Are there any objects that can be used as weapons? A
trash can lid could help defend against a knife slash, or a fire hydrant might
be useful to off balance an opponent during a struggle.
As a rule, you should try to avoid the above situations at all costs. Try to
develop good habits such as looking at people’s clothing when they approach
to identify possible concealed weapons. Be aware of hands that are in
pockets, they might be carrying weapons. If possible, always run away when
faced with an armed attacker. This does not make you a coward, it makes you
smart. If you are caught off guard and must defend yourself, attack with
everything you have. These important principles will save your life.
Attacking Vital Areas
The human body has a number of vital areas that can be used to end a fight
quickly. One of the main differences between an unskilled street fighter and a
highly trained martial artist is the knowledge of these vital areas and how to
attack them. A street fighter will often swing wildly to any target he can hit,
but a well-placed blow to a spot such as the temple can knock out an
opponent and possibly even kill.
One reason that strikes to vital areas are so effective is because they cannot
be covered with muscle. A three-hundred-pound body builder will drop just
as easily from a good solid knee kick as a one-hundred-pound man would.
This makes the use of vital area strikes extremely important for the smaller
person in self-defense. The following is a list of the primary vital targets that
you should be familiar with and an illustration that shows their location.
Remember that strikes to these areas could cause permanent injury and
possibly even death so use them only as a last resort.
The Primary Vital Areas-
1) Eyes
 2) Temples
3) Throat
4) Eardrums
5) Under the Nose/Upper lip
6) Chin/Jaw
7) Base of the Skull
8) Collarbone
9) Solar Plexus
10) Elbow Joint
11) Groin
12) Knee Joint
13) Peroneal Nerve
14) Top of Foot
15) Along the Spinal Cord
16) Behind the knee (Hamstring)
17) Tailbone
18) Kidneys
19) Shins
20) Achilles Tendon
Eyes- Take out the opponent’s eyes and he can’t see you. Even a small flick
to the eyes can cause severe pain and damage. The finger jab, thumb gouge
or claw strike are the most effective. In some cases, dirt or sand can be
thrown into the eyes. Pepper spray and mace are also extremely effective for
targeting the eyes.
Temples- Located on the side of the head, even with the eyes are the
temples. A strike to this area can knock an opponent unconscious. Even a
light blow will disorient the attacker. A hook punch, phoenix eye strike,
hammer fist, and elbows are the best weapons to attack the temple.
Throat- The throat should be among your first targets in a real encounter. A
solid strike to the throat will cause the opponent to choke and make it
difficult to breathe. The throat may be hard to hit if the opponent tucks his
chin, so you might need to feint or pull his head back to expose the target.
Strike the throat with a knife hand, tiger’s mouth, forearm, or a punch. The
throat is a primary target on the ground for applying chokes. If the Trachea is
crushed, the opponent will possibly die.
Eardrums- The eardrums play an important role in balance. A solid strike
to the ears can rupture the eardrums and cause the opponent to become
disoriented and lose balance. The best way to attack the eardrums is to cup
the hands and strike both ears simultaneously in a slapping manner. Even a
punch to the ears can impact the eardrums.
Under the Nose/Upper Lip- The area directly under the nose is an
extremely sensitive area. A strike to this area can rattle the opponents head
causing a concussion. A pal strike under the nose can break the septum
causing heavy bleeding and making it difficult for the opponent to breath.
There are legends in the martial arts world of death resulting from the
cartilage in the nose being driven into the brain, however I have never seen
evidence of this occurring. The opponent’s head can also be easily controlled
by applying pressure under the nose. The best way to attack this area is with
palm strikes, punches, forearms, and elbows.
Chin/Jaw- The chin and jaw area are often called the “button” by boxers
because when struck with a well-placed blow, a knockout instantly occurs.
The chin can also be targeted initially with an uppercut to expose the throat.
Often a solid strike will break the opponent’s jaw. The hook punch, uppercut,
and elbows are excellent weapons for attacking the chin and jaw.
Base of the Skull- The base of the skull is an extremely vulnerable target
area. I have seen many street fights end in death when a simple punch to the
jaw knocks out the opponent and they strike the base of their skull on the
pavement when they fall. This usually causes a brain bleed to occur resulting
in death or coma. The base of the skull will often be exposed when the
opponent turns his back, leans forward, or falls during the fight. Hammer fist
strikes, elbows, and foot stomps are the primary weapons used to attack this
area.
The Collarbone- A broken collarbone is extremely painful and will limit
the mobility of the arms. This injury is quite common in football and
wrestling and usually occurs when the injured party is slammed into the
ground. It is unlikely that you will target this area with strikes. When
grappling, forcing the opponent’s upper body into objects such as a fire
hydrant or car bumper might damage this area. In some cases when the
opponent leans back to avoid a head strike, the collarbone will be exposed to
elbow attacks or a hammer fist strike.
The Solar Plexus- The solar plexus is an excellent target when throwing
strikes to the body. Located in the center of the torso, the solar plexus is a
system of nerves that effect internal organs such as the liver. A well-placed
strike to this area will drop an opponent and cause trouble breathing. Often a
person will vomit when struck in the solar plexus. Punches, hook punches,
and front kicks are great weapons for attacking this area.
Elbow Joint- As you have seen with the joint manipulation and ground
fighting techniques, the elbow joint is an effective target to attack. Anytime
the opponent extends his arm, the elbow becomes vulnerable to strikes and
joint locks.
The Groin- The groin is probably the best-known vital area and a well
delivered groin strike can instantly end a fight. The problem is that the groin
can be a difficult target to hit on an opponent who is moving and covering
themselves. The groin becomes an excellent target when the attacker is
overconfident and leaves their lower body exposed. Knee strikes, kicks, and
hammer fist blows are among the best for attacking this vital area.
Knees- Like the elbow joints, knees are great targets during a fight. I was
told by one of my martial arts instructors that it only takes about nine pounds
of pressure to break a knee joint. This is about the same amount of pressure
needed to break a board. When the opponent’s knee is damaged, they cannot
walk, and the fight is normally over. Attack the knees with a side kick, Thai
round kick, or cross kick for best results.
Peroneal Nerve- The Peroneal nerve runs along the outside of the leg and
when struck, will cause the leg to go numb. Elbow strikes, and knee strikes
while in the clinch work very well against this target.
Top of the Foot- The foot is composed of numerous small bones that are
easily damaged. When in close range fighting such as a clinch, stomps to the
top of the foot can make it difficult for the opponent to walk.
The Spine- When the opponent has his back turned towards you, attacks to
the spine can be highly effective. The most common area to attack along the
spine is the upper neck. A severe strike to the spine could result in paralysis.
Behind the Knee (Hamstring)- The hamstring area behind the knee can
be a highly effective target. Not only will a strike to this area buckle the
opponent’s knee and cause them to lose their balance, it might also damage
the tendons making it hard for him to stand. A Thai round kick, cross kick,
and side kick can be used to this target.
Tailbone- Strikes to the tail bone are not that common, but if the
opportunity presents itself to attack the tailbone, it can be an extremely
painful and damaging blow. Normally the opponent would have to have his
back to you to expose this target, but if a front kick to the groin goes in too
deep, you might impact the tailbone instead. A rising front kick or upward
heel kick would be the best attacks to this target.
Kidneys- The kidneys are a favorite target for boxers. Located on the lower
back, the kidneys are vulnerable to hook punches. A well-placed hook punch
can instantly drop an attacker. Anyone who has been on the receiving end of
a good kidney shot will appreciate the pain and the following days of
urinating blood.
Shins- The shins are extremely sensitive and a blow to this target can be
extremely painful. Cross kicks, stomp kicks, and side kicks are the best
choice of weapons to attack the shins. Rolling your own shins with a stick or
soda bottle will help condition the against attack.
Achilles Tendon- The Achilles tendon runs behind the foot near the heel.
Damage to this area can make it difficult for the opponent to stand and walk.
Cross kicks, and stomp kicks can be extremely effective to this target.
Summary-
There is often a gap between training and practical street self-defense.
Knowledge of strikes, grappling, and kicks are only one piece of the puzzle,
knowledge of the principles of self-defense are crucial. The principals of self-
defense include the following.
1) Avoidance
2) Preparation
3) Awareness
4) Escape
5) Control of ego
6) De-escalate
7) Have a plan
In addition to the above principles, you should consider owning and training
with equalizers such as mace, pepper spray, and weapons such as a knife or
firearm. In some cases, you will have no choice but to fight. Study and
practice weapons defense and disarms but understand that your chances of
success against an armed attacker and multiple attackers are slim. When you
must fight, hold nothing back and fight with every ounce of fury you possess.
A knowledge of vital targets is particularly important for self-defense and can
help even the odds in a life or death struggle.
 Chapter 13
Reverse Engineering the Traditional Martial Arts
In ancient times your skill in martial arts meant life or death. If a technique or
principle did not work in a real situation, you didn’t live to pass it on to
anyone else. No one would want to risk their life practicing a method of self-
defense that wasn’t proven on the battlefield. But something happened over
time and today the traditional martial arts are often seen as ineffective and
useless for real fighting. How did this happen and how do we regain the true
deadly effectiveness the traditional arts once had? This chapter will provide
the method of reverse engineering the traditional martial arts forms to
rediscover their true meaning.
Knowledge Lost
What happened to the traditional martial arts? Why do they get so little
respect today and how did they lose their deadly effectiveness? How was the
original knowledge of the ancient masters lost? To answer these questions,
we will need to look at several factors that have contributed to the overall
dilution of the traditional martial arts. Before we begin the discussion, I will
start by saying that my opinions and beliefs in this section will probably
make some people angry. People will undoubtably feel insulted or believe
that I am attacking their styles or systems. The information that I provide here
is not intended to degrade any person or style of practice, but instead to open
people’s eyes to reality. I love the traditional martial arts and it frustrates me
to see these deadly systems be distilled down to nothing more than
commercial dance routines. My goal is to get people to think again of the true
meaning behind these arts and to see their deadly effectiveness. So, let’s get
started.
The very nature of a kata or form presents a problem because only the
originator initially knows the meaning behind the movement he or she is
trying to express in the form, and it is inherently their own. This means that
when the form is taught to someone beyond the originator, they must be
shown the correct application as well or it may be lost. Even if the student
learns the correct application from the originator, they may not be able to
physically apply it themselves. For example, the originator of the form has
very long legs and has perfected a way to cross stomp an opponent’s
kneecap. He develops a solo form that contains this movement and later
teaches the form to a student who has very short legs. Even if the student
understands the true meaning of the movement, he will probably not be able
to execute it successfully in a fight due to his physical limitations.
Secrecy also played a major factor in the transmission of forms throughout
the ages. A master who had a set of techniques that were proven in battle may
be reluctant to reveal the true meaning of a movement to a student. In many
cases, the true meaning of movements was passed on to direct family
members only. A master could teach a form to several students at the same
time he teaches his own son, but only the son might be aware of the true
application of the movements. The students might not be taught an
application at all or worse yet, they might be taught a wrong application. This
results in the students eventually teaching their students without proper
knowledge of the true meaning of the forms.
Modification to the movements is another factor that can cause
knowledge to be lost or techniques to become ineffective. Even if a person
learns the true application of a movement in the form, they may eventually
make their own modifications that impact the effectiveness of the technique.
This can be done intentionally or unintentionally. For example, a student
who has never been in a real deadly encounter may decide to change the
technique of the originator because they erroneously believe it makes the
technique more effective. They may believe that a fist is a stronger weapon
than an open hand not realizing that they would break their hand if they
applied that specific technique in a real situation. The application of a
technique may require a low position because the opponent has been tripped
or is down. A lazy student changes the movement to a higher position
because it is easier to perform. This renders the technique ineffective.
True fighting techniques may be hidden within flowery movement in
the forms. In many cultures that were conquered or occupied by oppressors
the practice of fighting techniques was strictly outlawed or prohibited. Early
masters might hide their deadly fighting movements to look like dance or
religious ritual. This would allow them to practice right under the noses of
their enemies. Even if the movements were not overtly hidden, the originator
of the form may have added religious salutations or movements to show
respect to their original teacher. These movements may not have any direct
fighting application but sometimes are interpreted to have a meaning.
During times of peace, the deadly techniques contained within a
martial art might be lost. While some countries have experienced constant
war throughout their history, others have had the luxury of generations of
peace. When people are not forced to fight for their lives, the need for
effective fighting techniques become less important to them. People may
practice the original arts for the sake of preserving history or expressing
themselves in an artistic fashion. Even without the benefit of peace, the
advancement of weapons could impact empty hand forms and the desire or
need to study them. In some cases, the originator is killed or dies a natural
death and takes the knowledge of the art with them to the grave.
Take into consideration all the above factors that might result in the
loss of original fighting knowledge that is contained within the forms. Now
imagine that foreigners have invaded your country and are asking you to
teach them your most deadly fighting systems. It is ridiculous to think that
after World War II for example, that Japanese masters would have openly
taught Americans their true secrets, assuming of course that any of them still
knew the true secrets to begin with. Many American servicemen studied
Judo, Karate, and Jiujitsu after the war and returned to the United States to
teach these arts. No doubt some of them were very capable fighters, but were
they taught the true deadly meaning of the kata they learned?
It seems that the further we get from the original source, the more diluted and
less effective the arts tend to become. When martial arts first became popular
in the fifties and sixties, Hollywood helped to sell these deadly exotic arts
through movies and television. The popularity and evolution from Judo to
Karate to Kung-Fu to Ninjutsu and so on continues to this day. This
popularity has led to commercial schools, sale of merchandize, and sport
tournaments that have further eroded the true fighting methods of the original
arts.
When I first started studying the martial arts, earning a black belt carried a lot
of respect with it. Much of that has been lost today. We have large
commercial schools that offer contracts that promise a black belt in a certain
time frame. We see small children awarded high belt ranks. I recently saw a
kid on a television program that was about ten years old and was supposedly
a fourth-degree black belt. He was performing fancy routines with flashy
kicks mixed with moves that looked more like gymnastics than karate. Could
this kid really defend himself against an adult attacker who wanted to cause
him serious harm? We also see instances where people who have trained in
traditional martial arts get beaten up by a person who has no formal training.
Finally, the popularity of mixed martial arts has shown that with a few
exceptions, traditional fighters don’t usually do well in these competitions.
We are lucky in the sense that the forms have survived and have been handed
down to us. We have a responsibility to recover the knowledge of their
applications that has been lost through time. In the following chapters we will
provide a blueprint for reverse engineering the forms and recovering the true
meaning of the movements. This blueprint will be based on solid facts that
we know to be true from real deadly encounters. Because it is based in the
reality of a real fight, this blueprint can be applied to the forms of any martial
art provided the art is a true traditional art that was developed from real
combat.
The Blueprint
This chapter will focus on the key elements that will determine if a
movement is combat effective and how you can identify those key
components in a traditional martial arts form. After the blueprint is
understood, you will be able to sperate false applications of a movement from
the true application regardless of the style or form. Keep in mind that this
blueprint is intended to recover the lost applications from the forms of
traditional masters who fought for their lives and recorded the techniques
they used to survive in the forms. However, this blueprint will also allow you
to identify forms that were created by people who had no true fighting
experience because the required elements of the blueprint will obviously be
missing.
The following criteria make up the blueprint for reverse engineering your
traditional forms. I can’t stress enough that they are based on real fighting
experience and fact. No theory or assumptions. When applied, these criteria
will bring your forms back to life.
Every movement serves a practical purpose- There cannot be
wasted movement in a fight for your life. Every fighting movement in the
forms serves a practical purpose. Remember that traditional forms may
contain flowery movements to disguise the true fighting techniques as dance,
but the fighting applications themselves will be very direct and practical.
Forget about mystical applications such as deadly pressure point strikes and
moves to deliver chi power. Focus on quick and effective techniques that will
end the fight quickly.
Mobility and static stances- Static stances don’t exist in a real fight.
When someone is trying to seriously harm or kill you, you will be moving as
quickly as possible to avoid their attack. They will also be moving around to
avoid you or to get an advantageous position on you. It would not make sense
in a real encounter to assume a low fighting stance and limit your mobility.
Based on this fact, when you see low stances and static postures they
normally indicate that the opponent has been tripped, swept to the ground, or
controlled in a manner that requires you to lower yourself to maintain control
or to finish them off.
There is no defense, only offense and counter offense- The
concept that martial arts are strictly for self-defense is morally nice, but the
best defense is always a good offense. The ancient masters knew that
opponents often attack by surprise and fights normally lasted only a moment.
They had to be aggressive to survive and take the fight to their opponent. In a
real fight when a person gets too defensive it becomes very difficult to
counterattack. In the military it is taught that when ambushed, to immediately
go on the attack and aggressively fight your way through the enemy. When
applying this principle to the forms it becomes clear that most movements
that are commonly thought to be blocks are really attacks. A simple example
is the so-called knife hand block that is seen in many traditional forms. I
remember learning one kata that consisted of knife hand “blocks” in all
directions with no follow up strikes or other techniques. Obviously, it makes
no sense to just perform knife hand blocks with no counter attacks. When you
realize that the knife hand block is actually a throat strike or eye gouge, the
form takes on new meaning and suddenly becomes much more effective for
fighting.
The myth of chambering- It is common in traditional katas and forms to
pull a fist or open hand back to your hip or shoulder area. This is typically
called “chambering” the technique and is often explained as a method of
generating power by launching the follow up technique from a chambered
position on the hip. The concept of chambering is unrealistic and serves no
purpose in a real encounter. Any movement that requires a hand to be
chambered on the hip is a grab to pull or control the opponent while you
strike him. A chambered movement to the shoulder can be a grab or pull but
can also be a parry or deflection prior to striking. In a street fight it is very
common to see one fighter grab the shirt or clothing of the other fighter and
pull him into punches or strikes. Sometimes a jacket, shirt, or other clothing
is pulled over the opponent’s head while controlling and striking attacks are
launched. Think of this type of attack when you see the classic chamber
movement in the forms.
The myth of fighting multiple opponents- Don’t assume that
movements in the forms are intended for fights against multiple opponents.
Unlike the movies where the hero fights multiple attackers who come at him
one at a time, if you are in a fight against more than one assailant, the odds
are highly stacked against you. The ancient masters knew this as well and
would have done everything to avoid these situations. I believe it is safe to
say that most of the techniques contained within the forms are not intended
for fights against multiple opponents. This would indicate that when you turn
or change directions in a form, it is because the position of your opponent has
changed, and you are turning to control or engage him further.
The “one for one” principle- It is a simple fact that in a fight your
opponent will not stand still and allow you to apply numerous combinations
of attack. Techniques that appear to be blocks followed by four of five
striking combinations cannot realistically be applied in that manner. The only
exception to this rule is when an opponent is off balance, controlled or
disabled. For every move you make you must assume that your opponent will
also be attacking. You would have to be twice as fast as your opponent to
deliver two strikes to his one. This fact also implies that many movements in
the forms will contain simultaneous attack and defense.
Using your surroundings as a weapon- Using your surroundings
against an adversary is a common occurrence in real-life encounters. There is
no doubt that the ancient masters incorporated this concept into their forms
when they developed them. To fully grasp this concept, think about a street
fight or a barroom brawl where one fighter drives another into a wall, over a
chair, or into a fire hydrant to gain an advantage. What is commonly thought
of as a simple upward block takes on new meaning if you imagine using that
same motion to slam into an opponent’s throat and force their head into a
wall.
Understand the ranges of fighting- Understanding the various ranges
where fights occur can help you determine the original application of a
movement in a form. There are basically four ranges that occur in real life
encounters. These ranges are, outside of striking range, inside striking range,
clinch range, and ground fighting range. Outside of striking range is the
distance where you can’t be hit by punches and kicks thrown by your
opponent. Likewise, you cannot hit the opponent with your strikes. Inside
striking range is the range where all striking techniques can be thrown and
land against you or the opponent. This range often leads to clinch range
where some type of standing grappling occurs. Once in a clinch, fighters may
strike with elbows, knees, or headbutts. They might break away from each
other and back to the inside striking range, or the fight might go to the
ground. When looking at a form you can determine what the meaning of a
technique may be by identifying the range of the other movements in the
form. For example, if the kata contains several front kicks followed by a
movement with the arms crossed, you could assume that the movement with
the crossed arms is an attempt to close the distance after the kick and grab or
clinch the opponent. In one kata that I learned years ago; I was taught that a
certain movement was a grab of the opponent followed by a high back kick.
This explanation made no sense because after a grab you would be too close
to kick the opponent with a high back kick. Years later I realized the true
meaning of the movement was a Judo throw called Maki Komi where after
grabbing the opponent around the neck, you swing your leg up under theirs to
throw them to the ground. The ranges of fighting are not static, and
techniques can flow between the ranges quickly.
Strikes might not always be strikes- We discussed that most blocking
techniques in traditional forms are actually strikes, but we should also
recognize that often techniques which appear to be strikes might serve
another purpose. A common example of this might be the forward punch
technique found in almost every basic karate kata. In these kata the punch is
executed by stepping forward in a deep front stance and striking the solar
plexus area of the opponent with a horizontal fist. The rear hand is pulled
back and chambered on the hip. Even a beginner to the martial arts can
quickly realize that this technique is not realistic. Have you ever seen a
traditional forward punch used in any fighting competition or in a street
fight? Now imagine that this technique is not a punch at all, but rather a
grappling technique where you step forward behind the attacker’s leg and
drive him to the ground by grabbing his clothing and pushing into his chest
with your forward arm while pulling his arm back towards your hip to off
balance him. This motion explains the chambered hand, the low stance, and
the punching movement much better than the common concept of a forward
punch.
Strange footwork is usually an attack- It is common in traditional
forms to see stepping movements that look strange. These movements often
include cross stepping, stepping sideways, slide stepping and twist stepping.
Many martial arts instructors will claim that the movements represent a
person stepping in mud, or fighting on a wall, or in slippery rice fields. The
practical applications for most of these techniques are ankle sweeps, leg
hooks, foot stomps, and joint locks using the legs for control.
Grappling and anti-grappling- As we discussed in the chapter on
ground fighting, most encounters end up on the ground. It is almost certain
that forms developed by the ancient masters took this into account. When
reverse engineering a form, you should always consider the possible
grappling applications of a movement. In addition, techniques to escape
grappling holds and prevent an opponent from taking you to the ground are
likely contained in the forms.
Shadow boxing- During my years of practice I have had moments when a
light bulb goes off and I suddenly realize the true application of a movement
contained in my forms. This often happens when shadow boxing and
practicing techniques slowly in the air. It is important that you visualize
techniques as you practice and notice similarities between your proven
fighting skills and the movements in the forms. An example would be
practicing a cross kick and a backfist combination and realizing how closely
it resembles a move from the Naihanchi Shodan Karate kata.
Adaptability of movement- Every opponent you face will be different.
They will have different body types, different skills, and different mentality.
The ancient masters obviously knew this well and developed their techniques
to be adaptable to any situation. When reverse engineering a form, always
consider that the technique represents a base line for the average opponent.
The technique would have to be adapted if the opponent was much larger,
stronger, or superior in skill. This also means that one movement could have
many applications. It is often the principle of the movement that is more
important that the physical movement itself. A good exercise is to take the
movements of a form and alter them slightly. Raise an arm higher, lower an
arm, drop your weight, etc.…If the standard application is lost when the
movement is altered, it is probably a wrong application. It is also interesting
to watch the same kata being performed by practitioners of different styles.
You will immediately see small differences in the movements, but the basic
principles remain the same.
Reverse engineering in practice
Now that you have a good understanding of the blueprint concepts,
Let’s take some basic movements from traditional forms and look at the
commonly taught applications. Then we will use the blueprint to reverse
engineer the form and find more effective fighting skills that are hidden in
plain sight.
The Traditional Low Block- Almost every classic karate style has a
basic kata that contains a movement where you step forward into a front
stance, chamber your hands across your body, and execute a downward
blocking motion with your lead arm while the rear hand pulls to your hip (A).
Some beginner kata contain only this motion repeated in an “I” formation
across the floor.

Normally karate students are taught that the application of this movement is a
low block against a kick as shown below. The defender chambers his hands
(A) and executes a low block against the opponent’s front kick (B).

Anyone with even the slightest fighting experience will immediately realize
the problems with this application. First, the chambering of the hands wastes
time and based on the one for one principle, the defender would be hit before
the block could be executed. Second, the defender lowers his arm to block a
strong kick with his arm and leaves his face exposed to punches. Finally, it
doesn’t make sense that an entire kata would be composed of only blocks and
no attacking techniques. Remember that the ancient master’s lives depended
on these movements. Now we will reverse engineer this movement to
uncover a more practical application. In the illustration below, the attacker
launches a punch towards the defender. The defender strikes the incoming
punching arm inward to deflect the strike and to damage the opponent’s limb.
Simultaneously he strikes the groin of the attacker with a downward fist (A).
Immediately the defender grabs the opponent’s punching arm and pulls him
inward as he executes a hammer fist strike to the temple (B). With the same
movement, three attacks have been delivered to the opponent and his initial
punch thwarted. The defender could follow up with a number of attacks
including a punch to the opponent’s head which is often the next move in the
traditional katas.

The Traditional Knife Hand Block- Another movement that is quite

common in the classical karate katas is the so-called knife hand block. Like
the low block, the movement starts with the hands being chambered across
the body. The forward hand chops out while the rear hand is pulled down to
the stomach area (A).
The typical application for this movement that is taught by many karate
masters is to defend against a punch by chambering the hands (A) and
blocking the punch with a knife hand (B).

Again, the problems with this proposed application become very apparent.
The chambering and blocking motion require two movements to the
opponent’s one meaning the defender must be twice as fast as the attacker in
order to effectively execute this technique or he will be hit before he can
block. In many classical kata this movement repeats multiple times in
different directions with no other apparent strikes. Why would the defender
execute multiple blocks with no counterattack? When we reverse engineer
this movement, we discover the following application. The defender parries
the attacker’s punch at the same time he strikes him in the groin with his fist
(A). He then traps the attacking arm close to his body as he strikes the
opponent in the throat with a knife hand (B). This interpretation of the
movement results in a simple parry and two strikes to the attacker whereas
the previous application was only a block. You can see a pattern emerge in
the common applications, where the initial chambering motions are devoid of
any practical function. By using the blueprint as a guide, we can extract the
highly effective applications that are hidden in these ancient forms.

The Traditional High Block- The high block is another extremely

common technique found in traditional karate styles. This movement
involves chambering the arms in front of the body as you step forward into a
front stance and raise your lead forearm upward above your head in an
apparent block (B).
Once again, the idea of chambering the arms in front of the body takes a
considerable amount of time and wastes movement and energy. Based on the
one to one principle, the opponent would be able to strike you twice before
you could execute this movement as a block. There are also many examples
in traditional kata where this movement is executed multiple times in a row
with no apparent striking techniques. Why would the ancient masters take so
much time on a simple blocking technique, when they were training to
protect their lives? Let’s look at an alternative application. In the below
illustration (A), the defender deflects the attacker’s punch as he strikes him in
the throat with an uppercut technique. Because the attacker is punching full
force with the intent to harm the defender, the deflection causes him to
overextend himself and exposes the throat to the uppercut strike. The
defender immediately grabs the attacking arm and drives his forearm upward
into the attacker’s jaw or throat. In an ideal situation, the attacker would use
the environment to his advantage by driving the opponent’s head into a wall,
tree, or other similar object. What was supposed to be an awkward block
becomes a devastating attack.
We have looked at three examples from classical karate, now we will reverse
engineer a technique from tai chi. In recent years, tai chi has developed a
reputation as a dance or exercise that isn’t effective for fighting. This is a
shame since the name Tai Chi Chuan means Grand Ultimate Fist and the
style was once a feared combat art. Remember that these principles can be
applied to any authentic traditional martial arts form that was originally
developed for true combat. The more experienced you become with the
reverse engineering process, the easier it will be to see the true lethal
application of the movements in the forms.
Golden Rooster Stands on One Leg- The Golden Rooster movement
is found in most styles of tai chi and involves standing on one leg with the
elbow of the lead arm near the knee of the raised leg (A). When I studied tai
chi, the instructor simply taught the motions of the form and seldom
explained a fighting application for the movements. Let’s examine what this
movement might be.
A simple application would be using the leg and arm to shield block against a
kick (A). This is an effective defensive technique that we discussed in an
earlier chapter; however, it is obviously defensive only and contains no
attacking component in the movement. In the Yang style of tai chi, this
movement repeats on the other side which like the karate movements
discussed above means that you would be executing multiple defensive
movements with no counterattack. This is not a good strategy in a life or
death encounter.

When we further analyze the movement and reverse engineer it with a more
combative mind set, the following application becomes apparent (B). In this
application, the defender parries a punch from the attacker and either pulls
him down or scoops his arm up, while applying an elbow strike to the base of
the skull and a simultaneous knee to the solar plexus.
Now that you have a thorough understanding of the blueprint and the reverse
engineering approach, you should take the initiative to break down the
movements in traditional martial art forms and determine the most likely true
combat applications. Once you have an application identified, practice with a
partner to ensure that the techniques are practical. The movements must be
highly efficient and able to stop the attacker in his tracks, or your analysis is
probably inaccurate. After significant practice, you will be able to spot the
practical application of the forms almost instantly. The classical arts are a
true treasure trove of real fighting techniques just waiting to be rediscovered.
Summary-
Many martial artists today make the mistake of dismissing the traditional arts
as ineffective and their forms as just useless dance movements. The ancient
masters developed these techniques in a time when your life depended on
being able to protect yourself. If a technique didn’t work in a real situation,
the person didn’t live long enough to teach others. Over the centuries,
secrecy, withholding of information, and commercialization of the martial
arts has caused the original fighting application of the forms to be lost. By
using a solid blueprint that outlines the factors that make techniques effective,
you can uncover the original meaning of the movements. The blueprint is
composed of the following.
1) Every movement serves a practical purpose
2) There are no static stances
3) There is no defense, only offense and counter offense
4) Chambering the hands is a myth
5) Defense of multiple attackers is normally a myth
6) The one for one principle
7) Use your surroundings as a weapon
8) Understand the ranges of fighting
9) Strikes are not always striking
10) Strange footwork is usually an attack
11) Movements are likely grappling/anti-grappling
12) Shadow boxing is a valuable identifier
13) Movements must be adaptable
 Chapter 14
Training
How you train is how you will fight. One of my martial arts instructors used
to say that somewhere out there your future opponent is training for the day
when you will meet. Will you be ready for that day? For you to be prepared
for a real life and death encounter, you must train seriously. In this chapter
we will discuss various elements of training and how to get the most out of
your workouts.
Mindset- The single most important factor in proper training is your
mindset. No matter how tired you are from the day’s events or how much you
want to skip your workout, when you enter your training area you must have
a serious mindset and be all business. Concentrate on your training program
one hundred percent and avoid any joking around or unnecessary chatter with
others. As a rule, remain disciplined throughout your workout and avoid
wasting time, loitering around, and laziness. When you begin your training,
it’s time to kick butt and take names.
Training location- I am a firm believer that you should have a designated
area for daily training. This area will house your training apparatus and
equipment. The more you train there, the more energy you will have when
you enter the training area. The size of your training area can vary, but it
doesn’t have to be very large. A few feet of space to strike a bag, skip rope,
or shadow box will do just fine. You should also feel free to train outside of
your set training area on occasion. The outdoors is a great place to work out.
Over the years I have trained in parks, but you will possibly draw unwanted
spectators. In addition, you may want to join a martial arts school or a gym in
your area where you can train as well.
Duration of Training- Consistency is more important than the length of
time that you train. It is better to train intensely for a short period of time
every day, than to train for long periods once or twice a week. In some cases,
lengthy training sessions are not as beneficial. This is especially true when
practicing precision techniques and proper form. When you are tired you will
get sloppy. Practicing your skills in a sloppy manner is not beneficial. The
one exception where it is good to train for a longer period is when practicing
for endurance and mental conditioning. I believe that an hour a day is
enough to get a good workout. You should take one day off a week to rest
your body.
Have a Training Plan- When you work out you should have a clear plan
of your goals and what you will practice. Decide if your workout will be
aimed at strength training, speed training, power training, or technical skills. I
like to alternate days and work on striking and kicking techniques one day
and ground fighting techniques the next. I will also pick a day to incorporate
weapons training into my workout regime. Having a set training schedule
will save time and help you accomplish your goals.
Equipment- The reality is that you don’t need any equipment to train. I
have worked out in hotel rooms and in the outdoors, just executing
techniques, shadow boxing, running, and doing pushups and sit ups. Having
training equipment will help develop your skills and make training more fun.
I highly recommend a heavy bag to enhance your striking skills. In addition,
a speed bag or double end bag will greatly enhance your reflexes and
coordination. For conditioning and striking I also recommend a makiwara
board and a wooden dummy. When practicing ground fighting you will
probably want matts for the floor although ground fighting can be done on
grass. Sometimes you should practice grappling on the hard floor since fights
will not occur on matts. In my early days, one of my instructors had us
practicing jiujitsu on a wooden gymnasium basketball court. For partner
training, focus mitts, kicking shields, and Thai pads are greatly beneficial.
Warm Up/Stretch- Always start your workout with a few minutes of
warm up exercises and stretching. It is extremely important to loosen up the
body and prepare for your workout to avoid pulled muscles and strains. Your
warmups don’t have to be complicated. Start off with some jumping jacks,
arm circles, and body twists from side to side. Then stretch your legs, arms,
and back. Practicing a few forms or light shadow boxing is another good way
to warm up. You should also warm down after your workout with some
breathing exercise. The heaven’s breath exercise is a great warm down.
Train Realistically- It is vital that you train realistically. You must strike
the heavy bag or focus mitts with intent and practice all your techniques
against a resisting opponent. Sparring should be done as well with very few
rules and very little protective equipment. When practicing ground fighting,
wear street clothes and allow for strikes. Incorporate training scenarios that
evolve from a verbal altercation to striking or grappling, and then transition
to weapons defense such as a knife being drawn. Train with just enough
intensity to keep it real, but not injure your training partner.
Sparring- As mentioned above, sparring is a critical part of your training.
This is where you take the techniques you have learned and apply them
against a training partner who is resisting you. When I train, the general rule
for sparring is to go about seventy-five percent. You should make contact
with your kicks and punches, so the opponent feels the blow a little, but don’t
take their head off or injure them. You will need them to train tomorrow!
Light MMA style gloves should be worn when you spar. This will allow you
to grapple or strike as needed. Always start your sparring from a standing
position and allow the session to progress to the ground if it occurs. An egg
timer can be used to time rounds. These are normally found in grocery store
baking isles for less than five dollars. When sparring, I like to set the timer
for ten to twenty minutes and just fight until the timer rings. This will greatly
enhance your endurance and force you to use skill rather than strength.
Training v. Classroom- There is a difference between learning new
techniques from a teacher in a martial arts class and training. Don’t confuse
your training regime with your classroom learning. Training is where we take
the techniques taught in the classroom and hone them. The teacher gives us
the blade and through training, we sharpen it. This doesn’t mean that you
don’t learn during training. Many great lessons that can’t be taught in the
classroom will be learned on the matts while training with your training
partners. Training should be separated from classroom learning. You might
choose to have an hour of class and learn new techniques, followed by an
hour of training where you hone those skills. Don’t make the common
mistake of thinking that simply going to class equals training. This would be
the equivalent of buying a new gun and never taking it to the range and target
practicing. The gun is the classroom technique, the target practice and
shooting are the training.
We have discussed the mind set and framework for training and how to hone
your skills to become a better fighter. Now let’s look at Three training
programs that I regularly use. The first is a striking based workout. The
second is a ground fighting based workout. The third workout is an alternate
workout to be mixed in periodically with the other two. All these workouts
should run about one hour in length.
Workout 1-Striking (Monday-Wednesday-Friday)
1) Stretch and warm up (5 minutes)
a) Jumping Jacks
b) Twist from side to side
c) Arm circles forward and back
d) Touch the toes
e) Hamstring stretches
f) Inner thigh stretches
2) Focus mitt drills (two rounds-6 minutes)
a) Utilize combinations from the striking chapters based on the
position your partner holds the mitts
b) Focus mitt holder attacks with jabs, hooks, or body shots and you
defend
c) Execute combinations on mitts, and then close the distance
3) Heavy Bag training (three rounds-9 minutes)
4) Kicking shield/Thai pad drills (two rounds-10 minutes)
5) Drill hand techniques/trapping/defense with partner (10 minutes)
6) Wooden dummy training/makiwara/conditioning (6 minutes)
7) Sparring (3 rounds- 9 minutes)
8) Warm down/breathing exercises (5 minutes)
Workout 2- Grappling (Tuesday-Thursday)
1) Stretch and warm up (5 Minutes)
a) Twist from side to side
b) Arm Circles
c) Touch the toes
d) Hamstring stretches
e) Inner thigh stretches
 2) Breakfall practice (5 minutes)
3) Circle drill with you down and training partner standing circling you
(5 minutes)
4) Standing up from the ground (5 minutes)
5) Ground control (10 minutes)
f) Mount position stabilization
g) Guard position stabilization
h) Moving from side control to mount
6) Technique/choke/submission practice (15 minutes)
7) Sparring (15 minutes)
8) Warm down/breathing exercises (3 minutes)
Workout 3-Other (Saturday)
1) Stretch and warm up (5 minutes)
2) Standing joint manipulation techniques (10 minutes)
3) Flow drills (15 minutes)
4) Weapons defense (15 minutes)
5) Forms practice (15 minutes)
6) Warm down/breathing exercises (3 minutes)
The above work outs are suggestions only based on training regimes that
have proven successful to me. The main thing is to train hard, constantly
work to improve yourself, never stop learning, and have fun.
Summary-
Possibly the most important component of being an effective fighter is
training. How you train is how you fight, so you must take your training
seriously and have a proper attitude. Several factors should be considered
when developing your own training routines.
1) Mindset
2) Training Location
3) Duration of training
4) Having a training plan
5) Equipment
6) Warm up/ Stretch
 7) Train realistically
8) Sparring
9) Training verses classroom learning
You should train consistently and keep your training fun. It is a good idea to
alternate days between striking and ground fighting training. Take one day
off a week to rest and recuperate. Remember that you are a student for a
lifetime.
 Conclusion
This ends our journey through the most effective fighting techniques and
theories from the martial arts. In my personal experience of over forty years
of martial arts training, I have learned a lot of exceptionally good concepts,
techniques, and ideas, and I continue to learn with each passing day. This
manual contains the techniques and knowledge that form the foundation and
core of my training and personal fighting system. These are the most practical
and effective responses to given situations I have learned, and they have
literally saved me in numerous situations. It is true however, that my truth
may not be your truth. I am sure that you will find that not everything in this
book will suit your personal needs. I hope that you have gained something
from the material presented here. For the advanced martial artist out there,
you probably thought that a lot of the stuff in this book was too basic. My
goal was to strip away the ineffective techniques, or techniques that were too
complicated to use in a real situation. I did manage to squeeze in a few
advanced techniques in several chapters.
I would like to close by thanking all my martial arts instructors, and the
people who have taught me life’s valuable lessons. Thanks to Vic Butler, Dan
Cepeda, Yi Hong In, Che Ki Un, Tim Waid, Bill Van Clief, Robert Speyers,
Bob Kelsey, Monty Dax, Luis Morales, Nelson Herron, Jack Soderberg, Bob
Petty. God Bless you all.
10/03/96
10/21/2020
 About the Author
Chuck Callaway has been studying martial arts for over forty years. In 1979
he began the study of Shito-Ryu Karate in Champaign Illinois. Chuck went
on to study Tae Kwon Do before serving as a Security Police Specialist in the
U.S. Air Force. During his military service, Chuck studied hand to hand
combat. While serving in Korea, he earned a black belt in Tang Soo Do under
Master Yi Hong In. 1987, Chuck met Sensei Vic Butler who taught him
Goshin Budo Jiujitsu and Molum Combat Arts. Chuck earned a 3rd degree
black belt from Sensei Butler. Upon leaving the military, Chuck became a
police officer in Las Vegas and worked as a patrol officer and patrol Sergeant
for over 19 years. During this time, Chuck became a defensive tactics
instructor for the police department, studied kick boxing, Jeet Kune Do,
boxing, kali, judo, aikido, and Brazilian Jiujitsu. In 1991, Chuck won a gold
medal boxing in the Police Olympics. In 2004, Chuck met and trained with
Guru Dan Cepeda who taught him Kenpo and the Batangas system of Arnis.
Chuck earned a black belt in Arnis from Guru Cepeda. Chuck has also
studied Yang Style Tai Chi. He continues to learn and train in the martial arts.